I've had my Runner for 3 years now and dealt with losing functions to Boltons BS video on setting up the LCD. A few months ago I saved this video to watch once it got warmer out and it worked. *I finally have my pedal assist and other functions back!!! Thank you so much!*
Awesome. I spent a lot of time tinkering and dialing in the battery gauge. Took lots of charge, drain, repeats and measuring the actual mph against the displayed mph. * nice avatar btw. Love Aphex Twin.
I just installed this upgrade kit on my RadRunner 1 and holy shit balls. So much power, words can’t even describe it. It feels like a dirt bike and accelerates 3x as fast as it did before.
Thanks for the very helpful and concise video! Full Disclosure- I used this video to dial in the settings on my extremely similar Electro Bike World controller and display for my own Rad Runner. These settings all work very well but unfortunately did not resolve a strange PAS failure I am just now having on my bike after riding happily for close to 180 miles with the new display/controller combo. If anyone reading this has experienced a similar failure after it ha been working, and you've got either the Bolton or EBW kit- I'd love to hear how you resolved the issue! TO clarify- I went in search of a settings video only after my PAS crapped out between one ride and the next.. I have already checked, unplugged, and re plugged the PAS wire connector in hopes of resolving the issue through the old "turn it off and then back on again" method. Thanks, Community!
One of my comments in here has a link to the manual for the display and there’s some PAS settings you might want to try. I can’t remember which one it is off hand but I can find it if needed.
These settings worked until I powered back on. All settings are the same when powered back on. When I hit the throttle it says "throttle" on the screen but the motor doesn't turn. Any suggestions?
Thanks for the vid, I have just purchased the upgrade for my EU radrunner and this info will be of great use to me. I would have thought that Bolton would have posted the different settings for the radrunner since he sells the kits. Anyway, thanks again :)
@sideburn Studios - thanks for this! I’ve seen on a couple of sites & Reddit some comments about C5 where at ‘10’ it will potentially burn out the motor. Have you heard of this or experienced it?
@@sideburn just got this upgrade package and am wondering if you had any problems a year later with having c5 at 10?... when i put mine any lower it feels like its slower than with the eggrider and stock controller.
I just installed on my RadRunner using these settings and after a while gunning it up hill the whole thing shuts off. The only way to get it back to life is remove the battery and put it back in. Any ideas or suggestions?
@@chrisdpcooke I'd contact Bolton. Sounds like a defective controller. I tackle extremely steep hills without issue when my battery is almost in need of a full charge. Power should not be cutting off for you hill or no hill if the voltage is > 39v.
Hello in the comments below you mentioned the speed could be boosted with a 60 v battery. Have you tried this? I installed the upgrade kit and am getting right at 24 mph like you said but I was hoping to get a little more out of my RR1. Thanks for the video btw.
I have a RadRunner Plus on order and it should arrive soon. (My first ebike.) Is there a video showing how to install this on a RadRunner Plus? Also, are the settings the same for the RadRunner and the RadRunner Plus? Thank you so much for all the info you have posted!
They should be the same. Same tires/wheel diameter. No video of the install that I know of but it’s pretty straightforward. I think Bolton has one video but it doesn’t get into how to fit the controller onto the bike. You need to do this: Unbolt the stock controller from the bike and unplug all the cables. Now the new controller has little mounting tabs on each end that make it larger and won’t fit so I took some pliers and just bent them back and forth til they came off. Next I put a strip of foam rubber tape / alien tape / etc along the top and bottom of the controller and then wedged it back into the exact place the stock controller was, plugged all the cables in and bolted it back together. That’s pretty much all there is to it and then swap the lcd panels out. The only tools you need are the ones that came with your bike and some zip ties to tidy the cables back up how they were…. And the pliers to yank off those unneeded tabs from the new controller.
@@sideburn Thank you so much! Does the tail light work? I saw an old post by Bolton saying they were making one that works w rad tail light. Again, thank you for your kind assistance!
@@sideburn damn....great idea. wish I had seen this video before it all. At least I corrected my settings....I'll test it out tomorrow....it's looking dank out right now. I am so appreciative of the knowledge you dropped here. thanks a million.
Dont know about that bike but should be pretty much the same except you’ll have to get the DIM setting as close as you can to that bikes wheel size and then adjust P1 until the speedometer is accurate. Use a speedometer app on your phone to compare while riding.
Should. Of make a difference. For best battery life just avoid draining all the way to zero and don’t let it sit fully charged for longer than a week. If you’re not going to ride it for a while it’s best to only charge it to about 75 / 85%. They don’t like to be fully charged for long period of time.
Hello! Thank you for the video, it was a huge help! I’m having an issue with my speedometer, it’s not accurately displaying the speed. The highest it will show is about 3mph. I just went on a 10+ mile ride, but according to my display I did less than 2 miles! Any suggestions on how to remedy this? Thanks!
I don’t know what it could be if you have entered the settings in the video correctly. The DIM:23” and P1: 103 are the crucial settings for the speed calculations if you have a radrunner with a stick wheel size. The P5 setting is to adjust the battery level meter and a setting of 10 or 11 works best for me there.
@@tripzuki7462 Hmm That should be all you need to do then. make sure the connections are good, if you put the bike on its kickstand and spin up the throttle the speedometer should go up to about 24mph.
I'm getting the radrunner 1 soon and im also going to buy this upgrade kit with it. How much faster does it make your radrunner and are you able to use throttle only? Also how easy is it to install the kit?
It will not make it much faster. Maybe from 19mph to 24mph on a full charge. And settles at about 20/21mph. This kit only increases the AMPS. And AMPS give you torque / power. This will make the bike take off faster. Almost pop a wheely. And it will make climbing ANY hill a non issue. If you want increased speed then you need to boost the VOLTS from the stock 48v to 60v. Yes throttle only still works plus you get a cruise control setting so you don’t need to use the throttle at all and can ride with your hands in your pockets. The kit is plug and play. No soldering. But you do need to make it fit on the bottom bracket and it’s a little larger than the stock controller. I removed the tabs from the ends of the new controller and then put some foam tape under it to cushion it some and then it mounted no problem.
@@sideburn thank you for the reply I was also wondering with this controller how many miles can you go on throttle only before needing to recharge the battery
@@odasity2970 same as stock. I get about 20 miles using throttle only. The extra power this controller gets you is only used when it’s needed so there’s really no change in the number of miles it can go.
@@sideburn ah, I'm purchasing my radrunner today, I weigh about 300 lbs, do you think stock it could still work throttle only? I plan to pedal with it too but I just want to know that if I want to I can do throttle only. Obviously I don't mean on steep hills but on like flat ground do you think it could?
@@odasity2970 Yeah stock will be fine for you with throttle only. Where I live theres almost no flat ground and stock could handle the hills but on steep hills it needs help by pedaling..
Well I fixed it but its not going to help much.. I don't know what L4 is for. It isn't mentioned in the manual. Here is a link to the manual: www.szktdz.com/upload/file/20180814/20180814091428_61636.pdf
I don’t think it will make a difference. If anything you might need to drop the p5 value down some of the battery gauge isn’t accurate. The lower the number the lower the gauge will drop l and the higher , the faster. You’ll have to fully charge the battery and then ride until the battery is depleted and see how the gauge accuracy is.
@@sideburn I mean, I’m also funny about C5 settings and have mine set to 5 for the 52v. Don’t wanna burn the motor out! Thanks for that tip though wasn’t quite sure how that P5 worked before your explanation.
@@ryanlozo c5 is just saying use as much current as the motor is starving for. You should be fine. I experimented with a voltage booster and took mine up to 90v ( I think that is the around limit on the voltage regulator and capacitors in the controller from my memory) without issue.
@@sideburn so pushing the stock runner motor into the 1800w range is safe? Thats how much my battery can generate. Since the motor isn’t even a true 750w that seems a bit high, but I’m not an expert.
@@ryanlozo the motor should only pull as much current from the battery that it can handle. As a water analogy, your battery current level is like the diameter of your hose. With the stock battery you have a garden hose… with your new battery you have a fire hose so your motor can now get as much current as it wants as fast as it wants. The motor is “pulling” current. It’s not your battery shoving it down it’s throat. Hope that makes sense…
KT-LCD8H Programming and 35a controller fitted to my Radrunner plus I have used your settings as described in your video with a change on wheel size to 23 - However my speedometer is not correct and my mileage reading is obviously way out can you suggested were the setting need adjusted please
I think it’s the startup force while pedaling with assist. But I can’t remember off hand. I posted a link to the manual on one of the comments in here. If you can’t find it I will re-post it here. Let me know.
P3 and P4 control the pedal assist mode. normally P3 should be 1. You could try setting it to 0. P4 is for the throttle mode it can be 0 or 1. here is the manual: www.szktdz.com/upload/file/20180814/20180814091428_61636.pdf
Hi Can you use a KT-LCD3 Controller Display on a upgrade 35a controller fitted to my Radrunner plus - Your knowledge is very good as is your videos - Regards
No. Not on Bolton’s upgrade. And the problem with other after market displays and controllers is they aren’t compatible with the Radrunner wiring harness.
@@danimayb exactly. I spent a lot of time researching and deciding wether I DIY the upgrade or buy Bolton’s. You can DIY one for half the price. But you’ll lose the tail light / brake light. In the end I just bit the bullet and bought their plug and play version. Less hassle.
@@danimayb I believe it can deliver as many amps as needed and the gauge of wire and motor windings would be the issue. These are 48v 14ah 672wh batteries. So if you were non stop pulling 30+ amps then that would just cut the runtime in half till battery was depleated. I’ve climbs steep hills without needing to pedal for a pretty long haul then stopped and checked the motor and wire harness and they weren’t even warm. I have not noticed any loss in distance I can travel either. I get about 20 miles without pedaling on flat land as well as flat plus occasional steep hills. It’s only going to pump higher amps when needed. So it won’t effect a stock setup. The power is just there when you need it. The torque off the line and climbing power is a huge improvement. The display shows how many amps you are pulling. I’ll check it next time I’m climbing a steep hill.
Actually I think the motor is 500watts / peak 750watts so that’s going to cap out the amps it pulls. But 48v @ 750 watts = 15.63 amps though so hmm 🤔 maybe the stock controller is way lower than advertised?!
@@danimayb oh it definately voids the warranty. But I dont think the motor is even capable of pulling more amps than the battery can handle. I did experiment with boosting the battery voltage to 60v and was able to get the bike to go 30mph but the bms kicked in after about 30 minutes of riding for some reason so I removed the voltage booster. I didn’t want to bother with it anymore. I’m not sure why it was cutting off so early though there was plenty of charge.
@@sideburn KT-LCD8H Color for Rad $99.99 Color LCD with USB port for the Rad ebikes. Unlock the speed limiter to 45mph and unleash the potential power of your Rad ebike! from electrobike world. and the coversion from 73km to miles is 45
hmm well its kinda false advertising BUT you can unlock the speed limiter so you COULD go 45mph if you put a big enough battery on it. but with the stock battery you are going to max out at around 22mph
in order to get higher speeds than 20mph you need to increase the VOTAGE... what this kit gets you is more AMPS and AMPS get you Torque. you need close to 100Volts to get 40+ speed and your batter is 42/50 volts
Hey rad comunity! Just getting into aftermarket mods for my rr2 and i wanted to know if this is with just the display and controller, or if this is with a new motor as well.. i was hoping to get a new motor but all of the 1000w motors are out of stock for right now.. thanks all
@@nicksimons6528 interesting. That works. I wonder if that is the only difference between setting of 0 vs 3. The manual is not very clear: Setting 0: Zero startup throttle. Setting 3: Zero startup, Zero gear effectively
@@nicksimons6528 Yep. The manual SUCKS... I spend days getting the settings right. And in order to get the battery level working right I had to make a setting, then drain the battery, change setting, recharge battery, since and repeat. After changing a setting it assumes the battery is fully charged.
That is an lcd-8H but the main issue is that it is a custom lcd-8h configured specifically for Bolton and his 35A controller. At least that’s what they tell me. So I doubt any other display will work with their 35A controller. When you turn the display on, the startup screen says “Bolton E-Bikes”.
I have a radmini4, canadian version, which has a 500 watt motor. Which setting should I limit to not burn out my motor. Does anyone know how many watts the 500 watt motor can handle?
Not sure what you mean. It’s a USA radrunner and the Bolton upgrade. The upgrade does not have a setting for the 22” tire which throws the speedometer and odometer off. The battery level meter is also incorrect. These settings adjust both and get everything accurate.
you mentioned you have the radrunner plus. I think that is the same wheel size, are you setting to KMH or MPH ? maybe it has something to do with that. Anyway you can get it correct yourself by using a gps speedometer on your phone and make adjustments to P1.. lower numbers will increase the speed and higher numbers will lower it.
@@sideburn since the tire sizes and motor are the same for the Radrunner, I think these settings should work for the 2021 RadMini and MiniST bikes as well. I ordered the upgrade for delivery in January, so I hope to confirm that in the spring. Well, when my warranty expires in March (just in case).
About 24mph on a fully charged battery. This mod doesn’t bump the voltage up (speed). It bumps the Amperage up (torque). Makes tackling hills a breeze and has much more get up and go at the start. I experimented with also boosting the voltage and was able to get up to about 28mph using a voltage booster but it wasn’t worth the hassle to me. There were issues with it cutting off after the battery drops a little.
@@PaleoPeekStudios No I didn't.. I tried it out and it worked but it started doing low voltage cut off pretty quickly, after riding only a few miles... not sure what was happening but I didnt want to bother much more with it for now and removed the booster and just went with the bolton upgrade alone.
@@philly.creative I break off the tabs hanging off the ends of the controller and then put a layer of foam tape across the top and bottom to dampen it. It will then fit in the same spot as the stock one does.
I've had my Runner for 3 years now and dealt with losing functions to Boltons BS video on setting up the LCD. A few months ago I saved this video to watch once it got warmer out and it worked. *I finally have my pedal assist and other functions back!!! Thank you so much!*
Awesome. I spent a lot of time tinkering and dialing in the battery gauge. Took lots of charge, drain, repeats and measuring the actual mph against the displayed mph.
* nice avatar btw. Love Aphex Twin.
I just installed this upgrade kit on my RadRunner 1 and holy shit balls. So much power, words can’t even describe it. It feels like a dirt bike and accelerates 3x as fast as it did before.
Yep you can almost pop wheelies! Much better. Especially if you live in areas with lots of hills.
Just ordered the upgrade kit for my radrunner and saw your review! Will save this video for when it arrives! Thank you!
Thanks for the very helpful and concise video! Full Disclosure- I used this video to dial in the settings on my extremely similar Electro Bike World controller and display for my own Rad Runner. These settings all work very well but unfortunately did not resolve a strange PAS failure I am just now having on my bike after riding happily for close to 180 miles with the new display/controller combo. If anyone reading this has experienced a similar failure after it ha been working, and you've got either the Bolton or EBW kit- I'd love to hear how you resolved the issue! TO clarify- I went in search of a settings video only after my PAS crapped out between one ride and the next.. I have already checked, unplugged, and re plugged the PAS wire connector in hopes of resolving the issue through the old "turn it off and then back on again" method. Thanks, Community!
One of my comments in here has a link to the manual for the display and there’s some PAS settings you might want to try. I can’t remember which one it is off hand but I can find it if needed.
I have the EBW kit and used the settings in this video and everything is working fine, may I ask what exactly is wrong with your PAS?
These settings worked until I powered back on. All settings are the same when powered back on. When I hit the throttle it says "throttle" on the screen but the motor doesn't turn. Any suggestions?
@@davidknowles5251 that may help or try resetting them back to the original settings. Sounds to me like a connection problem though.
Thanks for the vid, I have just purchased the upgrade for my EU radrunner and this info will be of great use to me. I would have thought that Bolton would have posted the different settings for the radrunner since he sells the kits. Anyway, thanks again :)
I know I gave them the settings too. I’ve found that 12 for P5 is best for my bike. Between 10 and 12 is the sweet spot.
@@sideburn Magic, thank you :)
Thank you I just received mine as well
great video, thanks. I just upgraded my radrunner, it's amazing.
Would these settings work for the radrunner plus with the 750 watt motor?
@sideburn Studios - thanks for this! I’ve seen on a couple of sites & Reddit some comments about C5 where at ‘10’ it will potentially burn out the motor. Have you heard of this or experienced it?
I have not. And I don’t believe it. I’ve been using that setting all this time and no issues at all.
Thanks! I’ve put in your settings and my rad runner is now next level. Appreciate it!
@@sideburn just got this upgrade package and am wondering if you had any problems a year later with having c5 at 10?... when i put mine any lower it feels like its slower than with the eggrider and stock controller.
@@nikolakarovic6509 I haven’t noticed a change.
I just installed on my RadRunner using these settings and after a while gunning it up hill the whole thing shuts off. The only way to get it back to life is remove the battery and put it back in. Any ideas or suggestions?
Sounds like low voltage cutoff is happening. What’s the voltage showing on the screen before it cuts off?
@@sideburn I just tried and it seems to do it just as it crosses below 46.0V
@@chrisdpcooke hmm it should not cut off unless that voltage drops below 40v. And your C12 is set to 4 and L1 is set to 0?
@@sideburn yeah C12 is 4 and L1 is 0
@@chrisdpcooke I'd contact Bolton. Sounds like a defective controller. I tackle extremely steep hills without issue when my battery is almost in need of a full charge. Power should not be cutting off for you hill or no hill if the voltage is > 39v.
Hello in the comments below you mentioned the speed could be boosted with a 60 v battery. Have you tried this? I installed the upgrade kit and am getting right at 24 mph like you said but I was hoping to get a little more out of my RR1. Thanks for the video btw.
You could.. I just used a voltage booster off amazon and set it to 60v. it worked but the low voltage cutoff started cutting off too early.
Why my pedal assist reach 40km at lv1? You know how to reduce that?
The brake lights working are often mentioned, but does the headlight work?
Yes
I have a RadRunner Plus on order and it should arrive soon. (My first ebike.) Is there a video showing how to install this on a RadRunner Plus? Also, are the settings the same for the RadRunner and the RadRunner Plus? Thank you so much for all the info you have posted!
They should be the same. Same tires/wheel diameter. No video of the install that I know of but it’s pretty straightforward. I think Bolton has one video but it doesn’t get into how to fit the controller onto the bike. You need to do this:
Unbolt the stock controller from the bike and unplug all the cables.
Now the new controller has little mounting tabs on each end that make it larger and won’t fit so I took some pliers and just bent them back and forth til they came off.
Next I put a strip of foam rubber tape / alien tape / etc along the top and bottom of the controller and then wedged it back into the exact place the stock controller was, plugged all the cables in and bolted it back together.
That’s pretty much all there is to it and then swap the lcd panels out. The only tools you need are the ones that came with your bike and some zip ties to tidy the cables back up how they were…. And the pliers to yank off those unneeded tabs from the new controller.
@@sideburn Thank you so much! Does the tail light work? I saw an old post by Bolton saying they were making one that works w rad tail light. Again, thank you for your kind assistance!
@@terrimensing8754 Yes the tail tight / break light work with the latest one.
@@sideburn thank you!
@@sideburn damn....great idea. wish I had seen this video before it all. At least I corrected my settings....I'll test it out tomorrow....it's looking dank out right now. I am so appreciative of the knowledge you dropped here. thanks a million.
What is the correct settings for the Rad city 4 cummuter ebike please
Dont know about that bike but should be pretty much the same except you’ll have to get the DIM setting as close as you can to that bikes wheel size and then adjust P1 until the speedometer is accurate. Use a speedometer app on your phone to compare while riding.
@@sideburn how do I find that speedometer app
@@tracywagers1399 type “speedometer”
In the App Store.
@@sideburn ok
@@sideburn what speedometer in the app is the 35 amp upgrade please send a picture
If put c5 on high and just use the throttle to work and back it is a 45 minute ride everyday will it damage my battery?
Should. Of make a difference. For best battery life just avoid draining all the way to zero and don’t let it sit fully charged for longer than a week. If you’re not going to ride it for a while it’s best to only charge it to about 75 / 85%. They don’t like to be fully charged for long period of time.
Ok thanks for the tip
Does your back brake light stay on? I just installed mine and the light stays on
No. The key aspect of Boltons kit vs others is the brake light support. It should work normally.
@@sideburn I mean just the light itself, I brake the brake light works but the light stays on at all times
@@andrewreid380 no the front and back lights should only come on after you hold the UP button down on the controller
Would these setting be the same for the Rad Mini Step thru 2 since the wheel size is the same?
Yes it should be fine.
Hello, I have an issue with my lcd8
It says copy complete and I did not intend to copy anything. Impossible to make it work again.
What can I do?
Not sure off hand. Look through Therese comments. There’s a link to the manual.
Would this work on a 2019 radrover? Having pedal assist issues And thanks
Yes it should work fine. I doubt the connectors or motor are different.
Looks like they changed their name to Area 13. There’s specific info about your 2019 rover on their description page: area13ebikes.com/products/radkit
Hello! Thank you for the video, it was a huge help! I’m having an issue with my speedometer, it’s not accurately displaying the speed. The highest it will show is about 3mph. I just went on a 10+ mile ride, but according to my display I did less than 2 miles! Any suggestions on how to remedy this? Thanks!
I don’t know what it could be if you have entered the settings in the video correctly. The DIM:23” and P1: 103 are the crucial settings for the speed calculations if you have a radrunner with a stick wheel size. The P5 setting is to adjust the battery level meter and a setting of 10 or 11 works best for me there.
@@sideburn, thank you for your reply! I do have the settings as suggested in the video. I do have the stock tires (20x3.3in.)
@@tripzuki7462 Hmm That should be all you need to do then. make sure the connections are good, if you put the bike on its kickstand and spin up the throttle the speedometer should go up to about 24mph.
@@sideburn, sorry for the late reply! I figured it out; I had P2 set to 6 instead of 5!🙄
It’s working great now! Thank you again!!
@@tripzuki7462 Ahh yes that'll do it.. Thats the Wheel Speed Pulse Signal Setting. Glad to hear it was a simple fix!
I'm getting the radrunner 1 soon and im also going to buy this upgrade kit with it. How much faster does it make your radrunner and are you able to use throttle only? Also how easy is it to install the kit?
It will not make it much faster. Maybe from 19mph to 24mph on a full charge. And settles at about 20/21mph. This kit only increases the AMPS. And AMPS give you torque / power. This will make the bike take off faster. Almost pop a wheely. And it will make climbing ANY hill a non issue. If you want increased speed then you need to boost the VOLTS from the stock 48v to 60v.
Yes throttle only still works plus you get a cruise control setting so you don’t need to use the throttle at all and can ride with your hands in your pockets.
The kit is plug and play. No soldering. But you do need to make it fit on the bottom bracket and it’s a little larger than the stock controller. I removed the tabs from the ends of the new controller and then put some foam tape under it to cushion it some and then it mounted no problem.
@@sideburn thank you for the reply I was also wondering with this controller how many miles can you go on throttle only before needing to recharge the battery
@@odasity2970 same as stock. I get about 20 miles using throttle only. The extra power this controller gets you is only used when it’s needed so there’s really no change in the number of miles it can go.
@@sideburn ah, I'm purchasing my radrunner today, I weigh about 300 lbs, do you think stock it could still work throttle only? I plan to pedal with it too but I just want to know that if I want to I can do throttle only. Obviously I don't mean on steep hills but on like flat ground do you think it could?
@@odasity2970 Yeah stock will be fine for you with throttle only. Where I live theres almost no flat ground and stock could handle the hills but on steep hills it needs help by pedaling..
what is the L5 for? Links for other vidios hide the text on the red arrow with text
Well I fixed it but its not going to help much.. I don't know what L4 is for. It isn't mentioned in the manual. Here is a link to the manual: www.szktdz.com/upload/file/20180814/20180814091428_61636.pdf
@@sideburn Thank you, i just bought the controller and the manual is even poorer, so i love you for that link. Thank you so much
How will these settings differ with a 52v battery?
I don’t think it will make a difference. If anything you might need to drop the p5 value down some of the battery gauge isn’t accurate. The lower the number the lower the gauge will drop l and the higher , the faster. You’ll have to fully charge the battery and then ride until the battery is depleted and see how the gauge accuracy is.
@@sideburn I mean, I’m also funny about C5 settings and have mine set to 5 for the 52v. Don’t wanna burn the motor out! Thanks for that tip though wasn’t quite sure how that P5 worked before your explanation.
@@ryanlozo c5 is just saying use as much current as the motor is starving for. You should be fine. I experimented with a voltage booster and took mine up to 90v ( I think that is the around limit on the voltage regulator and capacitors in the controller from my memory) without issue.
@@sideburn so pushing the stock runner motor into the 1800w range is safe? Thats how much my battery can generate. Since the motor isn’t even a true 750w that seems a bit high, but I’m not an expert.
@@ryanlozo the motor should only pull as much current from the battery that it can handle. As a water analogy, your battery current level is like the diameter of your hose. With the stock battery you have a garden hose… with your new battery you have a fire hose so your motor can now get as much current as it wants as fast as it wants. The motor is “pulling” current. It’s not your battery shoving it down it’s throat. Hope that makes sense…
KT-LCD8H Programming and 35a controller fitted to my Radrunner plus I have used your settings as described in your video with a change on wheel size to 23 - However my speedometer is not correct and my mileage reading is obviously way out can you suggested were the setting need adjusted please
The DIM and P1 work hand in hand. Set wheel size to 23 and then bump P1 up until it’s accurate starting at 100. For me 103 was the magic number.
c14 says set weak power assist.
what does that mean?
I think it’s the startup force while pedaling with assist. But I can’t remember off hand. I posted a link to the manual on one of the comments in here. If you can’t find it I will re-post it here. Let me know.
Hi I’m put those setting on my bike my pedal assist doesn’t work any idea why that would be thanks
P3 and P4 control the pedal assist mode. normally P3 should be 1. You could try setting it to 0. P4 is for the throttle mode it can be 0 or 1. here is the manual: www.szktdz.com/upload/file/20180814/20180814091428_61636.pdf
@@sideburn thanks for the reply 👍🏻
@@sideburn that worked thanks very much pal
Hi Can you use a KT-LCD3 Controller Display on a upgrade 35a controller fitted to my Radrunner plus - Your knowledge is very good as is your videos - Regards
No. Not on Bolton’s upgrade. And the problem with other after market displays and controllers is they aren’t compatible with the Radrunner wiring harness.
@@danimayb exactly. I spent a lot of time researching and deciding wether I DIY the upgrade or buy Bolton’s. You can DIY one for half the price. But you’ll lose the tail light / brake light. In the end I just bit the bullet and bought their plug and play version. Less hassle.
@@danimayb I believe it can deliver as many amps as needed and the gauge of wire and motor windings would be the issue. These are 48v 14ah 672wh batteries. So if you were non stop pulling 30+ amps then that would just cut the runtime in half till battery was depleated. I’ve climbs steep hills without needing to pedal for a pretty long haul then stopped and checked the motor and wire harness and they weren’t even warm. I have not noticed any loss in distance I can travel either. I get about 20 miles without pedaling on flat land as well as flat plus occasional steep hills. It’s only going to pump higher amps when needed. So it won’t effect a stock setup. The power is just there when you need it. The torque off the line and climbing power is a huge improvement. The display shows how many amps you are pulling. I’ll check it next time I’m climbing a steep hill.
Actually I think the motor is 500watts / peak 750watts so that’s going to cap out the amps it pulls. But 48v @ 750 watts = 15.63 amps though so hmm 🤔 maybe the stock controller is way lower than advertised?!
@@danimayb oh it definately voids the warranty. But I dont think the motor is even capable of pulling more amps than the battery can handle. I did experiment with boosting the battery voltage to 60v and was able to get the bike to go 30mph but the bms kicked in after about 30 minutes of riding for some reason so I removed the voltage booster. I didn’t want to bother with it anymore. I’m not sure why it was cutting off so early though there was plenty of charge.
why does it say it'll do 45ish but doesn't?
Where does it say that?
@@sideburn KT-LCD8H Color for Rad $99.99 Color LCD with USB port for the Rad ebikes. Unlock the speed limiter to 45mph and unleash the potential power of your Rad ebike! from electrobike world. and the coversion from 73km to miles is 45
hmm well its kinda false advertising BUT you can unlock the speed limiter so you COULD go 45mph if you put a big enough battery on it. but with the stock battery you are going to max out at around 22mph
in order to get higher speeds than 20mph you need to increase the VOTAGE... what this kit gets you is more AMPS and AMPS get you Torque. you need close to 100Volts to get 40+ speed and your batter is 42/50 volts
Hey rad comunity! Just getting into aftermarket mods for my rr2 and i wanted to know if this is with just the display and controller, or if this is with a new motor as well.. i was hoping to get a new motor but all of the 1000w motors are out of stock for right now.. thanks all
Display and upgraded controller with more amps. No motor. Gets you more amps/torque to climb hills. Not more speed / volts.
Is there a way to lock the settings on that with a password so the settings can’t be hacked
Not that I know of. You can check the manual that I liked to in the comments.
@@sideburn ok
@@tracywagers1399 found it: Here is a link to the manual: www.szktdz.com/upload/file/20180814/20180814091428_61636.pdf
@@sideburn it doesn’t say how to lock the settings with a password
@@sideburn I found it
How do I set it to where I can still have throttle on PAS O?
I don’t think it’s possible.
Set C4 to 3
@@nicksimons6528 interesting. That works. I wonder if that is the only difference between setting of 0 vs 3. The manual is not very clear:
Setting 0: Zero startup throttle.
Setting 3: Zero startup, Zero gear effectively
@@sideburn the manual is virtually worthless. But I have slowly found ways to make the bike behave the way I want.
@@nicksimons6528 Yep. The manual SUCKS... I spend days getting the settings right. And in order to get the battery level working right I had to make a setting, then drain the battery, change setting, recharge battery, since and repeat. After changing a setting it assumes the battery is fully charged.
Your showing the settings for the KT-LCD3 and the
That is an lcd-8H but the main issue is that it is a custom lcd-8h configured specifically for Bolton and his 35A controller. At least that’s what they tell me. So I doubt any other display will work with their 35A controller. When you turn the display on, the startup screen says “Bolton E-Bikes”.
I have a radmini4, canadian version, which has a 500 watt motor. Which setting should I limit to not burn out my motor.
Does anyone know how many watts the 500 watt motor can handle?
These settings should work fine. The motor will only pull as many amps as it can.
Your setting are out you must have a US bike
Not sure what you mean. It’s a USA radrunner and the Bolton upgrade. The upgrade does not have a setting for the 22” tire which throws the speedometer and odometer off. The battery level meter is also incorrect. These settings adjust both and get everything accurate.
you mentioned you have the radrunner plus. I think that is the same wheel size, are you setting to KMH or MPH ? maybe it has something to do with that. Anyway you can get it correct yourself by using a gps speedometer on your phone and make adjustments to P1.. lower numbers will increase the speed and higher numbers will lower it.
@@sideburn since the tire sizes and motor are the same for the Radrunner, I think these settings should work for the 2021 RadMini and MiniST bikes as well. I ordered the upgrade for delivery in January, so I hope to confirm that in the spring. Well, when my warranty expires in March (just in case).
@@RJ-kr4bs Should work as long as the connectors match. If anything you may need to adjust P1 if wheel size is different in any way.
How fast does this make it go now?
About 24mph on a fully charged battery. This mod doesn’t bump the voltage up (speed). It bumps the Amperage up (torque). Makes tackling hills a breeze and has much more get up and go at the start.
I experimented with also boosting the voltage and was able to get up to about 28mph using a voltage booster but it wasn’t worth the hassle to me. There were issues with it cutting off after the battery drops a little.
@@sideburn I just got it and installed it and it is so worth it Did you make a vid of making it go the 28 mph?
@@PaleoPeekStudios No I didn't.. I tried it out and it worked but it started doing low voltage cut off pretty quickly, after riding only a few miles... not sure what was happening but I didnt want to bother much more with it for now and removed the booster and just went with the bolton upgrade alone.
Hey can you guys maybe include a short installation video of this upgrade would be very helpful
@@philly.creative I break off the tabs hanging off the ends of the controller and then put a layer of foam tape across the top and bottom to dampen it. It will then fit in the same spot as the stock one does.