For those who are here because their drawers won't close (bounces right back out) after installing the linkage bar, or won't open after installing the linkage bar. After the Blum affiliated installers blamed my drawers and left, I did my own investigation. The reason this is occurring is due to how the linkage bar works. If you install the bar and push the runners in without the drawer itself, you will notice that the bar actually rotates downwards when the latches connect. This way it synchronises the rotation and latching on both sides. Which theoretically means there's a wider actuation surface for your drawers, since applying pressure disproportionately to one side would still trigger the rotation to unlatch the other side. The problem is that, the gears that the linkage bar socket uses to rotate can get dust and dirt trapped inside, causing it to not spin as freely. If one side doesn't rotate fully due to dust, it will cause the other side to not latch. Thus both runners unlatch and bounces out. Or if there's over rotation, it gets stuck and won't open. The solution is to get some bicycle spray grease, and spray it into the tiny white gears hidden right behind the linkage bar sockets. Manually rotate the bar a few times to spread the grease around. After that it should just work. Blum, learn to troubleshoot your own products.
Is this strong enough to push to open a double 35 quart waste bin drawer fully out? I'd like for to at least open half way to access the trash bin when my hands are dirty. Thanks.
I did this and yes it works. I got the 150lb rating runners, but you should be able to get away with the entry level load ones if you don't throw lead weights into your bin.
In your demo video, you are holding a LONG connecting rod. When i look on line for cost and description, , , , , , , ,only shows 12" connecting rods. Why is that
Hey there - great question! We offer a synchronization rod for narrow applications that is 12". We also offer a synchronization rod for wider applications, the Blum part number is T60L1118W. This is a longer rod that can then be cut to the size of your application.
Everything is fine, but these guides are: 1) not practical (they take up too much space, reducing the usable area). 2) very delicate - easy to damage (when making an extendable table, the carpenter damaged as many as 3 guides, a piece of plastic from the tipon broke) 3) work poorly (soft close + tipon side ball guides work much better and cost 5 times less)
For those who are here because their drawers won't close (bounces right back out) after installing the linkage bar, or won't open after installing the linkage bar.
After the Blum affiliated installers blamed my drawers and left, I did my own investigation. The reason this is occurring is due to how the linkage bar works. If you install the bar and push the runners in without the drawer itself, you will notice that the bar actually rotates downwards when the latches connect. This way it synchronises the rotation and latching on both sides. Which theoretically means there's a wider actuation surface for your drawers, since applying pressure disproportionately to one side would still trigger the rotation to unlatch the other side.
The problem is that, the gears that the linkage bar socket uses to rotate can get dust and dirt trapped inside, causing it to not spin as freely. If one side doesn't rotate fully due to dust, it will cause the other side to not latch. Thus both runners unlatch and bounces out. Or if there's over rotation, it gets stuck and won't open.
The solution is to get some bicycle spray grease, and spray it into the tiny white gears hidden right behind the linkage bar sockets. Manually rotate the bar a few times to spread the grease around. After that it should just work.
Blum, learn to troubleshoot your own products.
Is this strong enough to push to open a double 35 quart waste bin drawer fully out? I'd like for to at least open half way to access the trash bin when my hands are dirty. Thanks.
I did this and yes it works. I got the 150lb rating runners, but you should be able to get away with the entry level load ones if you don't throw lead weights into your bin.
What is the function of middle long rod, is it useful for any adjustment?
Synchronises the latch rotation on both sides. Theoretically gives you a wider actuation surface.
What if the Tip-On Blumotion runner does not stay connected. I have one that will not stay on. It slides off whenever I go to close the drawer.
Grease the linkage bar socket gears.
Whats wrong when i want to close and it comes back out?
Grease the bar socket gears.
In your demo video, you are holding a LONG connecting rod. When i look on line for cost and description, , , , , , , ,only shows 12" connecting rods. Why is that
Hey there - great question! We offer a synchronization rod for narrow applications that is 12". We also offer a synchronization rod for wider applications, the Blum part number is T60L1118W. This is a longer rod that can then be cut to the size of your application.
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Everything is fine, but these guides are:
1) not practical (they take up too much space, reducing the usable area).
2) very delicate - easy to damage (when making an extendable table, the carpenter damaged as many as 3 guides, a piece of plastic from the tipon broke)
3) work poorly (soft close + tipon side ball guides work much better and cost 5 times less)