You make a great instructional video. Videos by other guys...TMI....I don't need to know where you live and that you bought the motor at a rummage sale and put it in your shed but the snowblower was in the way of the lawnmower so you didn't mow the lawn and the wife yelled at you. You get right to the important features of this motor and used the camera well. Thank you, Erik.
Informative video, not too long, very clear and articulate. I gleaned a lot of useful information from this, even though my 82 Johnson 2 HP is a slightly different model. Thanks very much and.........happy boating!
I spent the day messing with my Johnson 2 hp engine. Mine's a 1977, 2R77C, and looks about the same. I had to mess with the recoil starter spring and the rope was about to break so I took care of that. To get it started I put a socket on a 1/2" drill motor and spun things for a bit till it caught. Now it fires right up on the first pull - Too Damm Cool I bought it at a yard sale a few years ago for $25. It had compression and spark so what the hell? I replaced the fuel line and to watch your video mine does not spit out the cooling water yours does. I'll pull things apart tomorrow and see what things look like inside. thanks for posting this.
These Evinrude/Johnson 2 HP motors are notorious for overheating. Replacing the impeller may NOT solve the problem. There is a water pump retro-fit kit that can be purchased that will solve that problem.
Can you tell me where the round end of the recoil spring is supposed to seat? I'm in the process of rewinding mine, replaced the pawl and rope. But can't find good info on where that spring is actually supposed to seat. I know one the c shaped side slides onto the pin of the pulley
Hey, I jut picked up a 1977 version of the same engine. Do you have any tips on rewinding the coil and wrapping the cord back on? thanks for the video it helped me out to get to this point. I saw how the starter fits in. It came lose before I removed it so I had no idea.
I spent a couple hours trying to get the spring wound back up and inserted into the recoil without it exploding again. To wind it back up I placed a screw in a 1' x 1' piece of plywood, hooked one end of spring around the screw, and then wound it up by hand while using the screw to keep it from unwinding and a second hand to hold the spring from the top to over it popping upward. The hard part was getting that wound spring back into the recoil assembly without it popping upward and unwinding. You can try using a zip tie to hold the spring wound when you insert it into the recoil assembly and try to use a screw driver or the like to guide end of the spring into the little notch. Hopefully by now you got the spring back in the recoil though.
Errors. First off, the silver screw does not provide access to the "crankcase," but rather to the "gearcase," where power is transferred to the prop shaft. Next, the two large slots at the bottom are not water intakes. They are exhaust ports. The four tiny holes higher up just serve as an exhaust at idle, when forcing the exhaust underwater would be difficult for the idling motor. They also serve to verify that water is part of the exhaust stream, ensuring proper cylinder cooling. The water pump intakes are two small holes on the forward side of the lower housing. I've had one of these things for many decades and run it quite happily at 100:1, minimizing smoking. In proper tune the motor can idle at a VERY low speed. My normal throttle range is 1/4 to 3/4.
Robert Riddle going too rich is like pulling out the choke, it add more gas. Going to lean will reduce the gas to air ratio. Going too extreme for either will typically cause a poor running engine, assuming it will run at all. You’ll probably end up somewhere in the middle range, but not necessarily the dead middle.
You have the correct ratio when the rpm's are at their highest. Do the idle screw at idle first, then run at high power and adjust the other screw for peak output. I've found that you can run the motor at a very low idle rpm if the idle screw is just right, but if you do then the motor will be slow to respond if you shove the throttle forward. So maybe 1/8th turn of the screw clockwise (richer) will work better. Also, when it's dialed in, you remove the caps and snap them back on with the indexes at 12 o'clock. You never have to touch the screws again.
Развлечения
For anyone who is lucky enough to own one of these marvellous little engines, the J-6J spark plug is no longer made and has been superseded to J-6C.
You make a great instructional video. Videos by other guys...TMI....I don't need to know where you live and that you bought the motor at a rummage sale and put it in your shed but the snowblower was in the way of the lawnmower so you didn't mow the lawn and the wife yelled at you. You get right to the important features of this motor and used the camera well. Thank you, Erik.
Helpful instructional video, especially for those who are looking to buy this motor or one like it. Thanks!
Informative video, not too long, very clear and articulate. I gleaned a lot of useful information from this, even though my 82 Johnson 2 HP is a slightly different model. Thanks very much and.........happy boating!
Mike Hart thanks for watching and leaving a comment. Please consider subscribing if you haven’t already!
I just picked one of these up, 1984. Was sitting for 6 years so I need to clean the tank, but nice looking little motor
I spent the day messing with my Johnson 2 hp engine. Mine's a 1977, 2R77C, and looks about the same. I had to mess with the recoil starter spring and the rope was about to break so I took care of that. To get it started I put a socket on a 1/2" drill motor and spun things for a bit till it caught. Now it fires right up on the first pull - Too Damm Cool
I bought it at a yard sale a few years ago for $25. It had compression and spark so what the hell?
I replaced the fuel line and to watch your video mine does not spit out the cooling water yours does.
I'll pull things apart tomorrow and see what things look like inside.
thanks for posting this.
Wow, what a beautiful little machine.
They were Junk Brand New wouldn't push a sick whore of a piss pot . Most have been junked that's why their hard to find.
Very informative and well made video
I like your test tank...just got a brand new (pristine) 1983 4hp evinrude/johnson yesterday 10 original hours. I recognize the parts!
Chris Hvid nice find. If they are maintained, they almost run forever.
I just started to rebuild a 75 johnson 2hp seahorse. I really love these little motors.
I have the same motor. A stout lil thing, indeed!
Ahhh so thats how they’re supposed to start and run!
I can put the throttle leaver to the p on the stop and it will still not die on mine. Great little motors.
These Evinrude/Johnson 2 HP motors are notorious for overheating. Replacing the impeller may NOT solve the problem. There is a water pump retro-fit kit that can be purchased that will solve that problem.
Can you tell me where the round end of the recoil spring is supposed to seat? I'm in the process of rewinding mine, replaced the pawl and rope. But can't find good info on where that spring is actually supposed to seat. I know one the c shaped side slides onto the pin of the pulley
Ok I will buy it
Hey,
I jut picked up a 1977 version of the same engine. Do you have any tips on rewinding the coil and wrapping the cord back on?
thanks for the video it helped me out to get to this point. I saw how the starter fits in. It came lose before I removed it so I had no idea.
sticks1215 GBALI the spring is a nightmare to wind on those. Hope you got it in.
I spent a couple hours trying to get the spring wound back up and inserted into the recoil without it exploding again. To wind it back up I placed a screw in a 1' x 1' piece of plywood, hooked one end of spring around the screw, and then wound it up by hand while using the screw to keep it from unwinding and a second hand to hold the spring from the top to over it popping upward. The hard part was getting that wound spring back into the recoil assembly without it popping upward and unwinding. You can try using a zip tie to hold the spring wound when you insert it into the recoil assembly and try to use a screw driver or the like to guide end of the spring into the little notch. Hopefully by now you got the spring back in the recoil though.
I am currently fighting the recoil spring. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Several attempts so far with no luck.
What type of oil are you using in your mix?
Errors.
First off, the silver screw does not provide access to the "crankcase," but rather to the "gearcase," where power is transferred to the prop shaft.
Next, the two large slots at the bottom are not water intakes. They are exhaust ports. The four tiny holes higher up just serve as an exhaust at idle, when forcing the exhaust underwater would be difficult for the idling motor. They also serve to verify that water is part of the exhaust stream, ensuring proper cylinder cooling. The water pump intakes are two small holes on the forward side of the lower housing.
I've had one of these things for many decades and run it quite happily at 100:1, minimizing smoking. In proper tune the motor can idle at a VERY low speed. My normal throttle range is 1/4 to 3/4.
What cc do these little motors have ?
Where do you set your low and high speed ...at startup? How many turns from seated position?
Low speed all the way in and then back off 1.5 turns.
High speed all the way in and back off 1 turn.
Points gap is 20 thou.
i have this motor,just dont understand the lean screws do????
Robert Riddle it’s how you adjust the air to fuel ratio.
Does it have a neutral?
No. It's start and go
any tips on how to replace a snapped pull cord? i took it apart and can't figure out how to rewind the spring. thanks
I’m having the same issue - would love a video of how you did that
@@alexcampion5130 i searched a bit and found a youtube vid that showed how. its a frustrating learning curve for sure.
Can u send a link?
How many cc ??
How do u know when. U have the air. To fuel. Right?
Robert Riddle going too rich is like pulling out the choke, it add more gas. Going to lean will reduce the gas to air ratio. Going too extreme for either will typically cause a poor running engine, assuming it will run at all. You’ll probably end up somewhere in the middle range, but not necessarily the dead middle.
You have the correct ratio when the rpm's are at their highest. Do the idle screw at idle first, then run at high power and adjust the other screw for peak output.
I've found that you can run the motor at a very low idle rpm if the idle screw is just right, but if you do then the motor will be slow to respond if you shove the throttle forward. So maybe 1/8th turn of the screw clockwise (richer) will work better.
Also, when it's dialed in, you remove the caps and snap them back on with the indexes at 12 o'clock. You never have to touch the screws again.
Is this outboard for sale?
I'd like to try to use this with my kayak. Is it heavy?
It was for sale and it has already been sold. Thanks for your interest though. It's a bit heavy as well - it was built like a tank.
Oh, ok thanks. How much did it sell for? Thanks for the info. Very much appreciated.
its not heavy,
Hey does anyone know the prop size for this motor or where to order
Jaka mieszanka olej do paliwa? 1:50?
.. the factory say 50 : 1 , but 24 :.1 is good if it's old.
mine is a 1973 model and has not been used in 2 years
GEAR CASE not CRANK CASE !!! CRANK CASE is on the powerhead around the CRANK SHAFT .