PERMANENT fix for Kohler 7000 series motor Charging System !!!
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- Опубликовано: 23 июн 2021
- 2016 Kohler 7000 series 27hp charge controller, voltage regulator, rectifier, voltage inverter whatever its called. I believe this has been burned out since 2016. I show in the video how the charge controller is mounted to the motor (a heat producing device, dumb, dumb, dumb). And anyone will tell you "heat" kills electronics! So I moved the charge controller to a frame brace. Later I probably should add a negative wire to the body of the charge controller just in case. But the charge controller is mounted now away from heat. I made 3 wires (1. center black and outer 2 is white) with a spade connector to plug in to the unit. Then the other end a flat spade end to stick into the original connector. Look at the connectors one side is spaced farther apart than the others. The middle wire goes to the start switch and the 2 white wires go to/from the stator. I have had no charging system since 2016, now I have one. I used to just charge the battery all the time ( trickle charger), now it should be whooped!
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As of now 7-2022 I have had a complete charging system failure. My fix only lasted a year+. The next thing that goes bad on Kohler is the magnets come loose from the flywheel and stick to the stator! I'm pissed!! So I got to do something different now!!
After tearing into it (removing the flywheel). The magnets were still in place, to my amazement. SSSOOOO that means there is another problem causing the charge system to fail!
I am sure you have checked this by now, but I would check your batt terminal connection on the key switch. After watching several vids on how to check Kohler VR and stator, I traced my issue to my key switch terminal where VR was out putting 13.8-14v back to key switch but key switch was not continuing the signal back to the battery. I bought this Snapper ZT I am working on used/non-running; I noticed when I jiggled the key in the “run” position while engine was running, my batt voltage would intermittently start showing charging on the multimeter.
@@TheClintmeister a bad wire mate
@@adolforosado to be honest I got so pissed I just gave up on it. Truly I haven't looked at it.
@@TheClintmeister It can be irritating. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Great work and video! Kohler used to be the gold standard on equipment. It is a shame how they have quit making quality engines. At the risk of sounding hard, just put a Kawasaki on it. So much has been compromised in OPE industry, so that manufacturers can meet the price points for all the big box store machines.
Your the best I have found.
Nailed the Kohler problems perfectly. Worth your weight in gold.
Just wanted to say Thank you.. definitely saved me some time after watching your video, my charging system hasn't been working for quite some time.. thanks
I'm having the same problem with my mower I have the same engine and I'm going to try this tired of always recharging after I mow ! Thank you for the advice I will let you know ! 😊
1.5 playback speed. You’re welcome.
yup. i wish i could do that irl
I think I'm there. I fully charged the battery, mowed for 15 minutes, shut it off, and no restart.
2017 or 2018 Snapper SZ2454, bought in the the summer of 2018.
Worked fine until a few weeks ago. 498 hours, Northwest Arkansas.
The solo end wire goes to battery, look at the 3 tabs, 2 have AC AC stamped on or above - those go to 2 pole plug. Other has B+ - thats TO battery.
The two that connect to 2 hole plug are 35 to 45 volt AC power IN from engine.
The B+ is 14 to 16 volt DC output to battery (AT FULL THROTTLE. At idle can be as low as 2v.)
You can check if voltage reg is working by disconnect plug and single wire. Start engine.
Full throttle.
Using your volt meter on AC (NOT DC) at 200v - put red lead in 1 hole of plug, black in other. Does not matter whicj. This combined reading should show 30 to 40 volts. Ok, that means engine if generating charging power.
Off engine. Reconect wire and plug to volt reg.
Start eng.
Full throttle.
Now, at full throttle, put volt meter on DC \ put red lead on single wire on volt reg. Black lead find a ground...screw, frame, battery whatever.
Volts should be 13.5 to 15. Usually 14 to 14.5
If yes engine is gen power. Volt reg works fine. Problem is between volt reg and battery, may be bad battery.
And if NO?
Thanks brother for your web sight,ya saved me alot o frustration trying to figure out repairs.go with god
I took my voltage regulator off…one of the tabs on the end was BENT almost 20degrees!
That’s the way it came!
It was upside down on a shroud
I saw the k in a bunch of photos I took of the engine cause I said mine ain’t got one of them there rectifiers.
But I found it.
It's not the heat that kills those voltage regulators. The casing of the regulator (with that thick metal and deep grooves in the top) is actually a heat sink, designed to keep the heat away from the electronicals. I have a Kohler Courage on my Gravely 60" ZTR with over 1000 hours on it (and used in a hot climate to mow 6-7 acres off) and the regulator is still going strong. Ironically, the fuse did burn-up on mine, wrecking the fuse holder.....just fixed it yesterday- first time in several years that the mower is actually charging the battery!
Some good tips and pointers I could implement on my Kohler Command Pro 18hp.
Have a cub with a 24hp kohler. Was going to replace mine. Think I might try this step instead of back in factory spot.
I like the air filter idea, I also want to get a scoop for the air intake screens on the flywheel.
The slightest windy day and grass ends up all over my flywheel screen.
Maybe a 70s Trans Am scoop, lifted 10 inches, and turned to the left, opposite of the grass discharge.
What else.. these bolts that hold the shrouds to the head new the exhaust, loosen them to loosen the shrouds to clean the grass and stuff off the fins. The bolts break.
I have tried a few different styles/types/ideas but so far none has worked properly on keeping the crap out of the motor. THX for watching.
Thanks for the insight. My kohler 7000 does not seem to charge my battery either. I have been charging it the night before mowing my lawn.
Mine wasnt either but I wiggled the plug and it fixed it
@@taylor_imaging lucky you
I've run a Suzuki rectifier on a Nissan outboard for years lol! As long as it has the correct specs is all that matters!
My charging system is getting worse. And that means the magnets have come loose off of the flywheel. Im thinking on getting a junkyard Delco altenator and put the 1 wire kit in it and somehow put that on there somewhere. I am really tired of the factory messups, I have gone (out of 6yrs of owning it) 4+ yrs without a charging system.
Solved the problem! Thanks
Ok folks after a few mows I can say with confidence that this works great. It took care of the charging problem. Got to keep the electronics COOL! This works!
I have same problem on my kholer command 22 hp drained my battery I replace a mont. Ago and now is bad again an last year same problem
Great video. Just a thought. Didn't see rectifier/regulator ground mentioned. Kohler regulators bodies need to be grounded for them to work. So in your video, if your mower body is grounded to the frame and motor is grounded to the frame everything is OK. I know Kohler on their Command series needed a short pigtail wire from the regulator body to the engine because it mounted to the plastic flywheel shroud.
Nice comment…
I ran ground wires from - side of battery to electronics, body and engine. I found years ago that the extra ground wires help and are better than the cheap wiring systems from the factory. I took the paint off and used SS screws to mount the regulator to that part of the frame. This fix lasted 1 mowing season but now I have no charging system on that mower. I haven't tore into it to try to fix it, just pissed at it. THX
Thanks. Just thought the grounding would be a key part of the video since the regulator won't function without the body grounded. Would appreciate an update if you ever find the culprit for the no charge now on that mower.@@TheClintmeister
I got really pissed at the motor. It wasn't long after I bought it the charge system went out and been fighing it since 2016. I got a idea to put a small 35 amp (1) wire altenator on it if I can find a place to put it and fabricate up a mount. That would fix everything.
@@TheClintmeisterHaving a very similar issue, If the new regulator plays up i’ll simply make a sunshade roof from my 12v flex solar panel to a cheap solar controller to the battery, problem solved.
The voltage regulator is cooled by the fins on the flywheel, i have had a kohler engine on a cub cadet with the same voltage regulator and had no problems.
I have a kubota z125s thats having the same problem. Although i hadnt taken the top off to actually see the stator i tested it and got perfect readings coming from it but the voltage regulator is not reading right the old one nor the new one having a time figuring out whats going on
I checked to see if my magnets came off (before the current mowing season). And the magnets did not come off. So I'm pissed and bewildered. I might try a small "1" wire alternator mounted on the belt that runs off the engine pulley. About the best idea to get a good charging system on the Kohler motor.
Awesome video 👍
This sounds like another case of the Kohler Regulator-Rectifier grounding problem. If the Reg-Rect casing isn't correctly grounded to the frame, block or battery, the system won't charge. This can be caused by rust on the grounding wire, or as in my case, I had the grounding wire screwed into the plastic shroud, but not to the engine.
This was mounted to a aluminum metal piece that was on the engine. Not good to cool elect componets.
Also, I suspect that the way the regulator-rectifier is mounted is on purpose. The heat dissipation fins on the reg-rect are oriented facing the engine under the shroud whereby air is circulated from the flywheel fan, thus cooling the reg-rect module.
It took heat straight from the engine and had a little wind going over the top. If it wasnt mounted to the aluminum piece that was on the motor it might work. They did that in the past, mounting it to the plastic and mounted a ground to the body. But they are good at screwing things up. Did you know that there is no roller bearings supporting the crank, its oil fed bearings, cheap!
@@TheClintmeister Oil fed bearings on 99% of all automobiles. Don't need ball bearings
I'm having problems with a Kohler 7000 series engine now that will not charge the battery and I am changing the voltage regulator on it but I heard you mentioned you have used seafoam to clear out the low surging problem with the engine but you can also use 100% acetone which you can find at the auto parts store or even Walmart in the fingernail polish section but depending on the size of gas tank I always run three capfuls per gallon of gas and it cleans a carburetor up really good also and it's much cheaper than seafoam plus it boosts the octane of the gas
Good tip.
Yeah great info.
HI Clintmeister ... Will this rectifier cause engine to die out while mowing , all systems are good , fuel , plugs , cap vented , pump flows fuel, etc, Mower gets Hot And dies out, will restart & then die, fuel shut off clicks . strange , dont have money for the dealer right now. thanks!
It sounds like the coils are breaking down. Common problem. If and when you get new coils (2) for 2 cylinders, they will sell you a upgraded coil pack (2). They are under the plastic cover, make sure they have a good connection (grounded to motor) to the motor. Try to find a parts store (online) that has microfish and see how to get to the coils to replace them. You can do it.
No... The isolating fill material in the back is not clear, nor was it. Its a black rubberized material and is so on all the replacements. Maybe the original Kohler had a clear fill, but I'm looking at one off my 7000 and its black, not because its burned, but because that's the way it's made. The way to tell whether your regulator is working or not is with a multimeter.
Ive seen a couple of them clear and light shading but not black.
Folks I deleted a comment from here. I don't care for idiot, dumb comments. And they didn't even watch the video fully, cause I give the cause and cure in the video!
Mine is exactly the same. I noticed the ground is not connected to anything, it’s just has a black connector plug on the end of it….is that normal?
I added a marine battery connector to my battery. then connected a ground to frame, motor and electronics. I haven't looked at it in a while (can't remember). If the ground isnt connected thats a problem.
Where did you get the no name rectifier?
Off ebay, Im pretty sure I had all the part number and info in the video. I now 1 year later have complete charging system failure. I knew it was coming but, 6 yrs old. My next big step is to put a 1 wire self exciting altenator somewhere on the mower.
@@TheClintmeister whoooo....sad news....thanks
So ours is a 2005 Scag Turf Tiger with a 27 hp Kohler engine. Going through batteries like crazy. I can see that the voltage regulator has become detached and I’m afraid it’s burnt up and this may be the cause of my problem. Would what you have done here work on my scag?
It should. as long as the unit is grounded and kept cool. That was my goals. As of now I just charge it good and mow the lawn fast as hell. Im going to try and find a place to mount a racing altenator (small, 1 wire and only 35amps) to the underside belt and have a different charging system all together. Stock coils are a problem on these and original head gaskets, there are improved versions of both of these out now. Thx
What size screws actually hold the regulator in place on the engine and did you use the same size when you mounted it?
@@jfktoo1 I used 7/16 by 2 inches, in metric its a 11mm by 50mm. I did drill the regulator holes to fit the bolts. I mounted the regulator in the air using nuts to keep it up off the space under the seat (I'm trying to keep it as cool as possible).
Many thanks brother!!!!
So the middle wire just goes back to the battery or at least 12 volts?
I think "maybe so"! I gave up on it (charging system) cause it lasted 1 mow season and quit charging. I used to know the layout (what wires go where) but I have forgotten now.
The solo end wire goes to battery, look at the 3 tabs, 2 have AC AC stamped on or above - those go to 2 pole plug. Other has B+ - thats TO battery.
The two that connect to 2 hole plug are 35 to 45 volt AC power IN from engine.
The B+ is 14 to 16 volt DC output to battery (AT FULL THROTTLE. At idle can be as low as 2v.)
You can check if voltage reg is working by disconnect plug and single wire. Start engine.
Full throttle.
Using your volt meter on AC (NOT DC) at 200v - put red lead in 1 hole of plug, black in other. Does not matter whicj. This combined reading should show 30 to 40 volts. Ok, that means engine if generating charging power.
Off engine. Reconect wire and plug to volt reg.
Start eng.
Full throttle.
Now, at full throttle, put volt meter on DC \ put red lead on single wire on volt reg. Black lead find a ground...screw, frame, battery whatever.
Volts should be 13.5 to 15. Usually 14 to 14.5
If yes engine is gen power. Volt reg works fine. Problem is between volt reg and battery, may be bad battery.
I did something similarly only added a nice sized aluminum.heat sink to it
Thats a very good idea! I will have to keep that in mind! THX
my kohler is frying my batteries in no time. would this be the voltage regulator?
Yes. It changes the voltage that comes from the stator (AC) to DC so the battery can handle it. Its hard to see in the video but I moved my voltage regulator off the motor (heat kills electrical componets) to the frame and extended the wires to each plug. I have had my mower since 2016 and right after buying it I had to keep a battery charger on it to get it to start. That means it burned up early in its life. Its mounted under the plastic fan shoud on the aluminum that connects to the fan shroud. If you can do as I did it will give your battery longer life. Sounds like yours just keeps on charging, thats how you burn up batterys. I found a no name brand on Ebay and payed less than half of Kohler. It works now.
It sounds like it is overcharging the battery!
Hey brother the issue is in the relay, it’s going to be the first relay.
the charge relay is next to the last relay on mine.
Many things these days we have to tweek to make them work .
Even the new Yamaha (that was supposed to be better than Kawasaki) turned out to be engineered junk. I just mulched the leaves, washed it and put it up for the season.
Bolt it to the blade itll stay cool there! Yuk yuk yuk
Does this hack work with Xmark too ??
I would say with the Kohler motor only. Kohler was used on Xmark. But after all that work I had the "other"problem happen and now I have NO charging system at all. It was on the video of how the magnets come off the flywheel and stick to the stator, so there is no more charging system, thats what happened to mine. I am going to hide a 45 amp altenator down low to FIX the charging system. Just stay tuned in (I haven't got all the parts yet) and I will post a video about how I do it. Thx for watching.
Thanks for keeping me updated, I have a kohler engine on a exmark and I just had the same exact problem you had.
The flywheel magnets came loose and ruined the flywheel and stator. Ordered brand new ones and it wouldn’t start until I jump packed it. Then it would die down. Everything tested out good except for the rectifier.
My guess was when the magnet came loose it cause a safety cutoff and blew the rectifier. Thanks for responding and looking forward to seeing the new update👍🏽
One guy bought 3 of those Chinese regulators and all 3 were DOA. Buy the factory OEM!
Honestly I haven't thought of that! I might buy another and try that out. I had my mind set on putting on a small race altenator 35 amp. I might try that, THX.
Bad boy should just go with Kawasaki and ditch kohler , my kohler just chucked a head gasket and then the ignition coils took a 💩 !
Yep Kohler asks the customers to "rebuild" the heads around the 300 hr mark. Sad to say you got common problems.
You never did tell us if it was charging
The fix lasted almost a mow season. Now I have no charging system. For now I charge the battery go out and mow "fast as hell"! I'm pissed at the motor always causing trouble. I'm working on a idea to put a small racing "1" wire alternator on the mower. But thats a lot of work and thats more crap to work on and I got tons of stuff broke to work on. THX for watching.
Engine
Its in the description. And in the picture. AND in the title!
Just get you a Kawasaki engine. Koehler is junk. Ive worse out three Koehler engines and can’t kill a Kawasaki with 2k hours on it.
Hey guess what.
I am right now waiting on Amazon to deliver a replacement voltage regulator for a Kawasaki FS 651. 2023 engine.
IT IS THE EXACT SAME PART NUMBER and EXACT PART USED ON THE KOHLER. It's wired exactly the same it's attached for the engine exactly the same this is a complete perfect replica of a Kohler engine and its Kawasaki... I think they may share ownership or be owned by the same company because if you put a Kohler label on here I couldn't tell you which one it was.
Great Idea, why are we having to pay for this "fix." Designed by idiots. So I have to pigtail out to a cool spot? I keep getting burned by "buy American."
I called it engineered junk or engineered failure. The Kohler has MUCH to be desired. Kawasaki is good but I woulnt call it legendary. All these vertical shafts have "oil pressure bearings" instead of "indudustrial roller bearings" to support the crank.