The blue thing is a vent so your tank doesn't create a vacuum as fuel leaves. There is no line connected to the blue vent. Putting the tank back in the van is easy when empty, requires a jack when not empty.
It does not. The North American 2004 and onward have an electric pump in the tank. UK vans kept the OM612 engine and manual sucking fuel pump at the engine even longer.
@@FloridaVanMan Thank you for your response and it’s Friday evening!! I just picked up a 2002 trying to figure why it won’t start. It’s turning over but won’t start even with either. Acts like it’s not getting fuel but the tach is barely moving when I turn it over so was thinking crank sensor however the previous owner just replaced the fuel filter before I got it and couldn’t get it to start after. Wondering if he primed it, I know what it’s like to run a diesel out of fuel as I did it once with my old ford tractor. Wondering if I should open up the injectors and turn it over like I had to with that old ford? Going through your videos thank you for all you’ve posted!
@@farmitecture2060 Please don't loosen common rail fuel lines to purge air. The pressures we are dealing with when it starts are extreme!!!! and can cut a digit OFF or worse cause blood poisoning, amputation or even death. Sorry if I sound like a Mom, just be careful, please. A better idea is a NEW & CLEAN shop-vac pushing air into the diesel tank while cranking. Or take a hose loose and pour the filter full of Clean* fuel. Don Not use the fuel poured out of an old filter. I can't believe how many people do this....
Coming soon with exact measurements to position the holes in the metal floor, and also the rectangle holes in the wood floor. The main video has been shot and I just need to edit it, add some B-roll and maybe re-shoot a little clip.
With an OM647 (2004-2006 USA model) it will push air out of the lines while your glow plugs warm up. Earlier OM612 engines might be slow to start or sputter a little as the air is flushed out of the lines.
@@FloridaVanMan thanks for all the great videos you put up ,ive refitted the tank and amazingly started first time and then just ticks over has before so all good
I have a leak coming from the top of the tank, about 45 seconds after starting the engine, regardless of how full, so I'm guessing it's a leak where the fuel injector return line/leak line comes back to the top of the fuel tank sending unit? I probably need to replace the fuel injector return/leak line?
Yes, it does not need to be the molded hose. Any 3/8ths injector fuel line will do the job but it MUST be injector fuel line. Our low pressure fuel system is 50-80psi. Common fuel hose will only hold about 30psi.
@@FloridaVanMan in the filler neck,i have seen many have a plastic valve,mine is missing....should i change the filler neck and put one whit the valve? Thank you
@@smcsumo That valve or flapper is only there to prevent fuel slowing against the cap when cornering. If you aren't drift racing with a full fuel tank it isn't very useful. :)
That's all it takes to lower the tank. To pull it out fro under the van you'll need to remove supply and return lines but the tank has to come down first and you can do anything except make a video under the van. :)
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks! On my todo list for tomorrow. For some reason, my Espar heater keeps sucking air. I've replaced all lines up to the long plastic one that disappears above the fuel tank. Need to see what's going on up there . . . I'll let you know! Thanks again
Is it possible to find out if you have a dummy aux port or a real one without lowering the entire tank? If you have a dummy port, does adding a tube and drilling it out make it operational?
Nope and nope. Sorry. If there is no hose leading from the aux port you probably don't have one. The plastic molding does not support drilling the units that have the dummy. I've tried, and wondered why the dummy is there since there I found no way to make it useful. Best to replace the pump assembly with one that has an aux port.
@@FloridaVanMan Thank you. Do you know how to test the bacon heater? Nothing seems to be happening when I turn mine on. If it is broken I can just disconect the hose and use that port.
@@RustyMisterTwo If you have a bacon button the van has (or had) a fuel aux port. In Florida we don't even try to fit the bacon button heaters. I think the ambient air temp needs to be low for those to come on so we don't get the opportunity to test them very often.
Could you tell me how to thoroughly clean the fuel tank inside,searched the site (aqua puttana,talking horse,linden and found nothing, please help. Ps , thinking about attach in talking horse Donaldson pre filter system,your thought,thanks
Please read your comment/questions before hitting 'reply'. What in the world are you talking about??? "talking horse Donaldson" Cleaning a fuel tank is like washing a cookie jar. Take the lid off and get a hand in there with rags to wipe it clean. Keep working at it until a rag that goes in clean comes out clean too. Rinse out all lint and dirt as needed and let dry thoroughly* before refilling.
@@FloridaVanMan There's a well known long term member named talking horse who tried his hand at limiting the water /air bubbles in fuel problem on the pre 04 T1n sprinters by using a Donaldson filter setup which limits the need to change the oem filter thereby reducing the problem of oem filter cost and air in the system. As far as the fuel tank goes I thought you may know the approved method of thoroughly cleaning the tank as opposed to reaching inside the tank as far as I can with a rag .
You only need to Lower* the tank, not unhook the long bolts. No jack is needed, just a deep socket 13mm, a skinny stick smaller than my 2x4, and a hammer.
I have a leak but I truly think it's from over filling as I do to the rim & not driving. We do this in Peterbilts etc too cause vapors are not a problem like gasoline so we get more miles with a tank. My thought is it's coming out that blue fitting hose on top of tank because the neck of fill hose is higher & gravity pushes it out after I fill & come home & park for weeks etc. Was thinking of capping that blue fitting or routing to higher ground which would probably be a better option for ventilation I assume it's purpose. Any thoughts?
I've never seen a blue vent leak but I've seen many loose & leaking screw-caps. The seal sometimes gets wonky because of the spring we need to hold down while tightening. Especially if the seal is installed dry, it can curl when we want it to slide. Best to lubricate with a bit of fuel.
@@FloridaVanMan Yes but most if not all dont fill all the way to the rim when fueling like I do I'm sure. Fill cap is way higher than that blue vent. I'm thinking maybe a gallon or 2 fits in that fill neck & if one would fill to top 5 miles from home & drove home & parked for a week that gallon or 2 would leak out that blue vent would it not? I had a maybe 10" circle where fuel had leaked & it stopped. My theory is it came from blue vent hose because it's way lower than fill spot height. I seen no oil/diesel residue on tank & that blue fitting hung over side. Probably seems a crazy why one would fill all the way to top I guess I'm not alone on VW TDI diesels which I own too. People do a vent delete on those where you screw in cap it opens vent in the threads. I personally just push nozzle against it when it gets full & diesel goes down & I add another 2 gallons. Bringing this trick to the diesel Sprinter world I guess & as I said we have done it on big trucks forever. A couple gallons extra is 100 miles on a Jetta & 40 miles give or take extra on a Sprinter. I think a hose added to that blue fitting & route it to higher ground would be the fix. Doing a van build & documenting on my channel & haven't had time to experiment so I was picking your brain.
Thanks good info to know! I wondered what those coils were for!
Me too!
Nice explanation of what you need to know with good video of it happening. Very concise!
Thank you so very much! Your videos are always helpful!
Where has that tool been all my life!
Do you mean the hose clamp pliers? Or the original tool... a stick! Hahaha lol I crack myself up!
good job , i really hate pulling tanks , i do not know why ,
Claustrophobia
Just about to drop my tank to hook up an auxiliary pickup
Taking it off it's easy but putting it back on I like to know how especially the blue tip where do that line go at
The blue thing is a vent so your tank doesn't create a vacuum as fuel leaves. There is no line connected to the blue vent. Putting the tank back in the van is easy when empty, requires a jack when not empty.
Thank you great video! Does the 2002 sprinter have a pump in the tank?
It does not. The North American 2004 and onward have an electric pump in the tank. UK vans kept the OM612 engine and manual sucking fuel pump at the engine even longer.
@@FloridaVanMan
Thank you for your response and it’s Friday evening!! I just picked up a 2002 trying to figure why it won’t start. It’s turning over but won’t start even with either. Acts like it’s not getting fuel but the tach is barely moving when I turn it over so was thinking crank sensor however the previous owner just replaced the fuel filter before I got it and couldn’t get it to start after. Wondering if he primed it, I know what it’s like to run a diesel out of fuel as I did it once with my old ford tractor. Wondering if I should open up the injectors and turn it over like I had to with that old ford? Going through your videos thank you for all you’ve posted!
@@FloridaVanMan it did seem to fire some what with the either
@@farmitecture2060 Please don't loosen common rail fuel lines to purge air. The pressures we are dealing with when it starts are extreme!!!! and can cut a digit OFF or worse cause blood poisoning, amputation or even death. Sorry if I sound like a Mom, just be careful, please. A better idea is a NEW & CLEAN shop-vac pushing air into the diesel tank while cranking. Or take a hose loose and pour the filter full of Clean* fuel. Don Not use the fuel poured out of an old filter. I can't believe how many people do this....
@@FloridaVanMan Roger that thanks for the advice I will prime the filter as you describe much appreciated!
you have a video on installing a seat in the cargo area?
Coming soon with exact measurements to position the holes in the metal floor, and also the rectangle holes in the wood floor. The main video has been shot and I just need to edit it, add some B-roll and maybe re-shoot a little clip.
@@FloridaVanMan cant wait
hi will there be any issues starting after replacing and refilling tank ,thanks in advance
With an OM647 (2004-2006 USA model) it will push air out of the lines while your glow plugs warm up. Earlier OM612 engines might be slow to start or sputter a little as the air is flushed out of the lines.
@@FloridaVanMan thanks for all the great videos you put up ,ive refitted the tank and amazingly started first time and then just ticks over has before so all good
I have a leak coming from the top of the tank, about 45 seconds after starting the engine, regardless of how full, so I'm guessing it's a leak where the fuel injector return line/leak line comes back to the top of the fuel tank sending unit? I probably need to replace the fuel injector return/leak line?
Yes, it does not need to be the molded hose. Any 3/8ths injector fuel line will do the job but it MUST be injector fuel line. Our low pressure fuel system is 50-80psi. Common fuel hose will only hold about 30psi.
Very nice job. Buy the way,how many liters is the tank?
The tanks hold 100 liters. This one had about 30 when I lowered it.
@@FloridaVanMan in the filler neck,i have seen many have a plastic valve,mine is missing....should i change the filler neck and put one whit the valve? Thank you
@@smcsumo That valve or flapper is only there to prevent fuel slowing against the cap when cornering. If you aren't drift racing with a full fuel tank it isn't very useful. :)
@@FloridaVanMan good to know. Thank you a lot! Keep up the good work👏👍
hey?!? What happened to the rest of the tank removal part? There's got to be more to it than the fill hose, vents hose and 2 clamps?
That's all it takes to lower the tank. To pull it out fro under the van you'll need to remove supply and return lines but the tank has to come down first and you can do anything except make a video under the van. :)
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks! On my todo list for tomorrow. For some reason, my Espar heater keeps sucking air. I've replaced all lines up to the long plastic one that disappears above the fuel tank. Need to see what's going on up there . . . I'll let you know! Thanks again
Is it possible to find out if you have a dummy aux port or a real one without lowering the entire tank?
If you have a dummy port, does adding a tube and drilling it out make it operational?
Nope and nope. Sorry. If there is no hose leading from the aux port you probably don't have one. The plastic molding does not support drilling the units that have the dummy. I've tried, and wondered why the dummy is there since there I found no way to make it useful. Best to replace the pump assembly with one that has an aux port.
@@FloridaVanMan Thank you. Do you know how to test the bacon heater? Nothing seems to be happening when I turn mine on. If it is broken I can just disconect the hose and use that port.
@@RustyMisterTwo If you have a bacon button the van has (or had) a fuel aux port. In Florida we don't even try to fit the bacon button heaters. I think the ambient air temp needs to be low for those to come on so we don't get the opportunity to test them very often.
That tank takes how many litters of fuel
100l = 26.4 US gal.
Could you tell me how to thoroughly clean the fuel tank inside,searched the site (aqua puttana,talking horse,linden and found nothing, please help.
Ps , thinking about attach in talking horse Donaldson pre filter system,your thought,thanks
Please read your comment/questions before hitting 'reply'. What in the world are you talking about??? "talking horse Donaldson"
Cleaning a fuel tank is like washing a cookie jar. Take the lid off and get a hand in there with rags to wipe it clean. Keep working at it until a rag that goes in clean comes out clean too. Rinse out all lint and dirt as needed and let dry thoroughly* before refilling.
@@FloridaVanMan
There's a well known long term member named talking horse who tried his hand at limiting the water /air bubbles in fuel problem on the pre 04 T1n sprinters by using a Donaldson filter setup which limits the need to change the oem filter thereby reducing the problem of oem filter cost and air in the system.
As far as the fuel tank goes I thought you may know the approved method of thoroughly cleaning the tank as opposed to reaching inside the tank as far as I can with a rag .
Does anyone have a trick for tightening that fuel sending unit ring without lowering the tank? That would be an awesome trick if one could.
You only need to Lower* the tank, not unhook the long bolts. No jack is needed, just a deep socket 13mm, a skinny stick smaller than my 2x4, and a hammer.
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks! I will try once the snow clears up in my driveway!
I have a leak but I truly think it's from over filling as I do to the rim & not driving. We do this in Peterbilts etc too cause vapors are not a problem like gasoline so we get more miles with a tank. My thought is it's coming out that blue fitting hose on top of tank because the neck of fill hose is higher & gravity pushes it out after I fill & come home & park for weeks etc. Was thinking of capping that blue fitting or routing to higher ground which would probably be a better option for ventilation I assume it's purpose. Any thoughts?
I've never seen a blue vent leak but I've seen many loose & leaking screw-caps. The seal sometimes gets wonky because of the spring we need to hold down while tightening. Especially if the seal is installed dry, it can curl when we want it to slide. Best to lubricate with a bit of fuel.
@@FloridaVanMan Yes but most if not all dont fill all the way to the rim when fueling like I do I'm sure. Fill cap is way higher than that blue vent. I'm thinking maybe a gallon or 2 fits in that fill neck & if one would fill to top 5 miles from home & drove home & parked for a week that gallon or 2 would leak out that blue vent would it not? I had a maybe 10" circle where fuel had leaked & it stopped. My theory is it came from blue vent hose because it's way lower than fill spot height. I seen no oil/diesel residue on tank & that blue fitting hung over side. Probably seems a crazy why one would fill all the way to top I guess I'm not alone on VW TDI diesels which I own too. People do a vent delete on those where you screw in cap it opens vent in the threads. I personally just push nozzle against it when it gets full & diesel goes down & I add another 2 gallons. Bringing this trick to the diesel Sprinter world I guess & as I said we have done it on big trucks forever. A couple gallons extra is 100 miles on a Jetta & 40 miles give or take extra on a Sprinter. I think a hose added to that blue fitting & route it to higher ground would be the fix. Doing a van build & documenting on my channel & haven't had time to experiment so I was picking your brain.