Thank you SO MUCH for these detailed tutorial videos! They have helped me replace the part myself as not many shops in my country take up such a task, or overprice for the same service. The videos were incredibly helpful! Wishing you all the best!
Next time I replace coolant, I'll be sure to flush through with rad flush or something and hosepipe it first before filling it back up. I appreciate all your help, you're a legend
I'm 24 years old, only ever touched a car to check the water and oil... Just wanted to say thank you so much for the guide as it turns out I had a faulty HCV. Ordered the part for just £9 and fitted it myself. Saved about £80 for an hours work. Literally fitted 30 mins ago and now producing heat as good as ever. Much appreciated!
Wonderful video! I was having fun with my family on our Fiesta 2000 and it was really a moving sauna, and we live in Israel where the summer didn't arrive yet. Your video will be of a great help on fixing it. Thank you!
Mine was fixed on "cold". Encouraged by how easy you make it look, I disconnected mine today. Bloody coolant drain plug was rusted solid, so I siphoned it down instead. It was all in really good order: not seized, all flowing well. I put the electrics back on to observe if the valve was moving and it thunked in and out as I connected and disconnected the 12V. I reckon my problem is actually with the central console knob. So that's next weekends job!! Thanks for your enthusiastic help so far!
You are a very good mechanic! Im attempting this on my Mrs Ford KA 2003 which is just blowing cold air. I'll firstly test the voltage to the solenoid before i attempt replacement. Thanks for the video! :)
Thanks for the reply. I have checked the hoses and the bottom hose is as boiling as the top. Also I noticed that when the engine was hot, the red/orangy coolant looked like it was going transparent in the expansion tank... just never noticed that before. I have changed the fans fuse (I'm sure it was the right one), have not heard of a thermoswitch. I was thinkin of maybe draining the coolant and do a flush/renew with antifreeze/water. Thanks for your help, you're a saviour mate!
cheers for the replies mate, yeah shouldn't be a problem thanks to your videos, the motor never overheated prior, the coolant had not been changed for 5 years though (previous owner) and sometimes the heater would play up (on hot when set to cool taking ages to cool down e.t.c). I have since done a coolant change which was fine for about 2-3 weeks then this overheat happened and keeps happening, have tried to burp the system numerous times so going to try the H.C.V swap first
Not fully fixed it seems. It only heats now instead of both heating and cooling. Before the fix it only cooled. U have any idea what might have caused thuis?
hiya mate good vid saved to my favs for tomorrow. my mk5 heater is stuck on full and yeah its bloody warm in summer, now its started to overheat since yesterday, hoping to change this out and get back to normal with the help of your video, heres hoping it aint the head
Got it back from garage and they said the small top hose from the thermostat housing to the expansion tank has a restrictor inside it that had become clogged with rusty muck. They also say that after cleaning the pipe out, the car was reaching optimal temp of 107 degrees and fan was kicking in and cooling. Can't be sure if I'm being led on, but whatever, as long as the car don't explode I'm happy. Something so simple like a clogged pipe can reek havoc.
Thanks for the replys. I have not had a temp warning light come on, it does illuminate and dissapear when ignition is on... this sort of leads me to believe that maybe the engine isn't overheating and maybe normal operating temp. I can't imagine it being the thermo, I only replaced that not long ago with genuine ford part and the pipes have never been this hot. Literally as soon as I put that HCV in, it got insanely hot. Wierd, will let the garage look it over and I'll report back, thanks 4 help
Hi there TK42138. SOLVED! I replaced the HVC and now have a fully working heating and cooling system. Both hot and cold work. I did the repair last night and all went well it took about 1 hour all together as I cleaned up all scuttle from dirt and mud that had built up. I got my part from Unipart £25 including VAT. The actual solenoid part looked alot more higher quality than the part I took off. Again many thanks for the video and advice!
Hi hope you had a nice holiday and thanks for the reply , not sure about taking the matrix out as i also have air con pipes sticking out of that area lol will have a look tomorrow also what would you say was the best way to do a complete flush on the cooling system ie best inlet and the best outlet .many thanks
Yea the fan isn't kickin in, but I know it works because the garage had the car flushed through a while ago and they said they left the engine on with everything on lights, wipers, heater ..ect. Then the fan kicked in. I was then advised it could be thermostat problem but after changing the thermo and coolant I have never heard or noticed the fan kick in to date and have had the car nearly a year. I will check again the bottom rad hose. should it be same temp as top hose then? cheers
Hi thanks for showing us this video . ive just changed the heater control valve on my 1999 fiesta which was only blowing hot air but now i have changed it and its now only blowing cold air ,have i done something wrong or missed something pls advise if poss. cheers
hiya mate well went to local scrappies....got a valve thats stuck on cold "seized solid" went back and canabalised a puma....wont blow cool stuck on heater again....so one seized on colds in just now atleast i wont pass out with heat and even though its stuck the engines not overheating cooling fans not even came on once. will do until i purchase a new one and it gets here
Great video. If i disconnect the 4 small hoses attached to the hcv, will i loose all my coolant or will it stop flowing? Just bought a new hcv for 46 quid and dont fancy paying out for another 5 litres of coolant seeing as i only flushed system few weeks ago. Thanks mate.
Sounds a bit dense, but what device do I use and how do I run 12 volts to the fan terminals? Also, I read that some faulty HCV's would cause overheating and Ford updated the units to solve this issue... which leads me to believe I might have been better off buying brand new from dealer rather than breakers. But surely if the one I got from scrap was faulty it wouldn't blow hot and cold? only one or the other. Thanks again mate.
yeah it never overheated in the warm weather. its only started after the heater got stuck on full heat 24/7 cannot turn it off, aka the HCV has got stuck in full open, i aint replaced the valve yet doing it tomorrow if i can get a hold of one and will make sure to air bleed after
Great video thanks TK4, however I appear to have a really weird problem with the heater in my mk4 fiesta (2000) when the heat it set to cold it will stay cold no problem. however when the heat is on it is very erratic. with engine warmed up (thermostat needle in normal position) will heat setting on full sometimes the heat come on straight away, sometimes will only warm slightly and sometimes you could be driving for over an hour and blowing cold air then suddenly the heat will come on. ideas?
hi i have the same engine in my car, i can't seem to figure out where my fan switch is? do you have a diagram or video show how the cooling system works
So the HCV I put in from scrappy could be causing the overheating? Even though it allows hot and cold it could still be faulty? Sorry, this is driving me crazy. I tested the fan and it does work... nearly lost a hand finding out. I'v got it in a garage on saturday, the guy said something about testing the actual temprature of the engine. I assume he means the coolant temp sensor. I can see them trying to replace a load of stuff. If thats the case I'l just buy a brand new HCV and try that
defo holding pressure, opened it today when it overheated (needle right into red) and there was plenty of pressure behind it believe me lol, also the pump seems to be working as when stationary the needle began falling to operating temp and fan kicked in then went off, i have also checked all hoses as suggested and tried numerous times at system "burping", like a say it ran fine for 2-3 weeks on the coolant change no eratic temp deveations,the fan would only come on if drove hard on the motorway
3 weeks back, first time in atleast five years (previous owner never changed), flushed with water, flushing agent, cooled, flushed through again with water, correct mix of fresh anti freeze and water applied and just the 1.25
I'v just changed the HCV, but now I'v noticed the top rad hose is extremely hot after idling for 10 min or so. Not sure if this is normal but never noticed it before
Cheers - To remove those annoying spring clamps you'll either need a dedicated springclamp removal tool which are similar to pliers but with special ends. There's also remote version for removing hard to reach spring clamps. For the heater matric and HCV clamps, a big pair of pliers etc will suffice. I tend to replace spring clamps with stainless steel jubilee/worm-drive clamps.
Very nice video, many thanks. I am still trying to identify the reason why I am not getting heat in the cabin, before replacing HCV. What does it mean if all the hoses connected to the HCV are warm? When engine is properly warmed and I drive on the motorway there is a bit of warm air coming out of the vents with speed switch on 0. When I turn it to any of the 4 positions cold air is coming out.
Davor Mirkovic When there's some heat when fan is at idle but it goes cold when cabin fan turned up, it's because the windchill effect of the increased airflow wipes out what little warmth is coming from the heater matrix. Lack of heat from the matrix can be due to low coolant level, partial blockage or silting up of matrix, coolant hoses and pipes, malfunction or blockage of HCV, partial opening of warm air distribution flap or cold air flap not closing off within dashboard (different car makes use different methods for heat and cool air selection and distribution) or cooling system thermostat that's sticking open all the time causing engine to run a lot cooler thus reducing heater output. Does your temperature gauge go into the normal zone when car has been driven for at least 15 minutes?
Thanks for all the info. I temporarily solved the problem by bypassing HCV. My engine does run a bit cooler, gauge hardly goes above 1/4 at idle with this colder weather. When driven it reaches normal temp, but quite slow. I replaced the thermostat and it is still the same.
Yes - you can connect the pipes directly so cabin heater is constantly warm. There's no law pertaining to heater valves. So long as the windows can be kept clear and the driver has good visibility/can see out. I did the same when I originally got the Fiesta. I used two plastic pipe connectors and four hose jubilee clips from Halfords so coolant permanently flowed through the heater matrix.
Hi There, TK42138, I have taken a look at replacing the HCV today and im really confused. (only blowing cold air) Can I assume the HCV is faulty if the right hand pipe going into the car is cold. The left hand pipe is hot and both pipes from the engine bay running into the HCV are both hot! I have tested voltage and there is a change from cold to hot so the panel looks good? Can you confirm TK42138. Ive also topped up coolant. Many thanks for the help
You mentioned that the heater valve was closed or fully shut, which meant there was no heat. How does it shut, if you don't mind me asking? Is it done manually or do you mean clogging?
I have the problem in my fiesta02 enduro engine of constant cold air. Gonna get myself a new hcv and fit it. Just one question, my radiator fan never seems to come on. Is there a way of checking its ok? Thanks for the video
please help i have a 98 fiesta looks exactly the same as this i have replaced the valve but cant remember which is the left and which went to the righ is the left the one with the temp sender or without
hello on my fiesta I am French this one to this problem no circulation engine turning because solenoid valve closed, motor stopped solenoid valve open so never heating I think to remove this valve because I do not understand its operation or it has a problem Thank you
Hi TK, I've got one of these cars (same year) the heater is always hot, I've check the valve and its been removed ... Just replaced with pipes.. Question is can this cause damage to the car?
Could this be a solution for a KA heater stuck on hot too? I'm getting my face melted off me the whole time and it's too expensive to have it done by a garage.
Yes as this type of heater valve usually fails open so cabin heat available permanently but bare in mind the control circuit board can also fail but it's usually the valve.
At about 3.55 you say that the heater valve is fully closed. What is the reason it is closed? Is there something in it? Sorry, maybe a stupid question but I don't know anything about cars, and I have a Ford Ka with a heater that doesn't work. Coolant fluid level is ok though. So I thought I'd watch this. Thanks in advance.
The default setting on the heater control valve is 'closed' due to a spring within the unit. When ignition is off or heater control is set to cold, current to the solenoid is reduced or cut so spring closes the valve which stops hot coolant circulating through the heater matrix. Common fault with these HCV is solenoid failure due to coolant leaking past valve diaphragm or circuit failure from blown fuse or heater control circuit failure which is a printed circuit board behind the twist control on the dashboard. The Ford part is better quality than pattern parts however the design itself is flawed. If it cruds up or breaks up internally and blocks the HCV bypass port within the unit, it can lead to overheating as coolant then struggles to flow when valve is shut. If yours isn't working but coolant is correct level then check for voltage at the HCV connector when ignition is on. It should vary as cabin heater control is turned from cold to hot.
@@TK42138 thank you for replying so fast. I am not English speaking (not the technical English anyway) so I'm trying to understand. It will take a while :) In the meantime: were can I find the fuse?
One more question if I may...where do I find the radiator knob to open the radiator. I’ve seen photographs of cars where there is a knob at the top of the radiator, but my radiator has none? So how can I check if there is enough fluid (water or what?) in it? Please help, thank you.
Very informative video, my sister complained today that the heaters had stopped working in the fiesta. Fans blowing but no heat coming out, coolant level is normal. Looking at the internet the heater valve seems to be the likey culprit. Is there any way of diagnosing or anything else I should check before replacing it?
Thank you! Check fuses as feed for HCV is ignition live only so blown fuse will prevent heater control panel from actuating the HCV. Also ensure cooling system is totally free of the rusty, silty nastiness that can gum up the cooling system. Even a thin layer of calcification will act as an insulator to prevent efficient heat transfer to the radiator and since the silt will reduce coolant flow it will just add thermal load to the engine. The iron block and head Endura E OHV lumps are susceptible to furring up so need the long life high quality anti-freeze mix and regular flush outs. I would check the matrix pipes when heater is set to hot. If they are hot then HCV is allowing hot coolant to flow into the matix. If the pipes remain cold but the outlet from HCV is warm/hot, then hot coolant is flowing through the built in bypass in the HCV and back into the cooling system loop but not flowing into the matrix. The HCV bypass is the horizontal tube-like moulding between the pipes inlet/outlet. Worth noting that if this bypass blocks up, it can affect cooling function on engine and cause overheating if severly blocked up. I recommend Ford original quality HCV's as pattern parts are variable quality and I've had a few fail in short space of time despite following Ford's service bulletin advice of complete flush through and new thermostat fitting before replacing HCV.
Hi, great video. I've had this problem before but got the garage to fix it. I have the problem again, this time it's always hot. I've ordered the part, but if I disconnect the power lead to the control valve would this be ok till I replace as the consent hot air is really uncomfortable?
Unfortunately the default valve position is always open due to spring pressure within the HCV. It needs current supplied to it to keep it closed or 'cold'. When the heater control is set to cold, current energises the solenoid which pulls it shut so hot coolant can't flow through matrix.
How about when the heater hoses are all hot around the HCV, and the car keeps pushing cold air only inside the cabin? The thermostat has been changed, at least there's a receipt of a new thermostat, I'm not quite sure if it has been fitted or no, although the fluids are new and clean, therefore one could expect that the thermostat has been changed too. If the inner hoses (the ones that go in and out of the heater core) are hot, shouldn't the heater core be hot too?
Markus Korhonen Yes, if the inlet pipe to matrix is hot and the return is warm then the matrix should be kicking out heat. If not then check air distribution flap control is diverting air flow to the designated areas such as windscreen, facia vents, feet/footwells etc. Also need to check air inlet from outside to the fan as debris, wet leaves can build up and cause reduced airflow into the cabin. Worth noting that even though the matrix feed and return pipes can feel hot to the touch, if the matrix is clogged or has layer of limescale build up in the coolant passages, it can act as an insulator which stops heat transfer from coolant to the cabin air that's passing over it. Also check the cabin air recirculation setting isn't on. Low coolant level will also affect heater output. Ensure level is correct. If thermostat is present and working, the radiator top hose will be hot when engine is warmed up.
Hi, I had a problem with my heater valve - it was blowing just cold air all the time. bought a new one, now it's just blowing hot air all the time. This is gonna be bad in summer! It's already bad for long trips on the motorway! Any help please?
Hi, please ensure the connector terminals are clean and free from dirt, corrosion or the nasty green deposits often seen on old electrical components that are exposed to damp and heat. Next, check fuses. Power to the HCV comes via the controller on the fascia and that only works when the ignition is on. If it's supply fuse has blown then there's no power to the HCV. If fuses are intact then with ignition ON, test to see if voltage varies at the HCV supply connector as the control knob is turned from cold to full heat. If the voltage does change then HCV itself might be duff or stuck. Vitally important to ensure cooling system is totally clean and has no rusty silt inside which can cause HCV valve to stick. Another way of testing to see if the fault lies with the HCV or the variable resistor circuit on the controller (behind the heater control) is to measure resistance of the HCV supply connector as an assistant turns the heater on. Resistance should change since the variable resistor dictates how much current (thus voltage) reaches the solenoid in the HCV. I've only seen a handful of failed controllers but I've seen many more failed or failing HCV's.
I'm not familiar with this age of Fiesta and the HCV design is different on this car. I think there's a known issue with heater flap control which can affect heat output. Having said that, well worth checking the coolant level because if it's dropped and is too low then heater output will be affected. I have seen some RUclips videos on later Fiesta heating and ventilation controls so may be worth searching on here or Google as guarantee someone has had same problem.
Hi, is it possible to diagnose the knob functionality? As far as I know, this valve will open when not energized, and close when energized. Is this correct? I always have 12V on my plug, whatever the knob position is. If I disconnect the plug, no hot air inside, so the valve must be really stucked. Can you tell me if when I rotate the knob I should get different voltage readings on the two pins of the plug? Thanks in advance.
+ahlidaptm The default setting of the HCV is open due to internal spring pressure within the valve. It depends on electrical feed from heater control panel to supply voltage to the HCV solenoid to overcome spring pressure to close the valve for example in warmer weather when cabin heat is not needed. To test function of heater controller, you need to put test meter on the supply connector to the HCV while the control is turned from cold to hot. You should see the voltage vary which changes current in HCV solenoid which will pull valve shut.
Hi i am having nightmares with my courier van. I have had no heat for ages. It used to get heat when it was being revved and cold when idle so i changed water pump as vanes were gone. Now its just cold all the time. I replaced the HCV but maybe its broken again ? Ill buy another one and try. However. All the pipes that are attached to it get hot. I have a new water pump so vanes are good on that. Radiator fan never comes on ? I don't know if this is connected ? All pipes seem hot to me. No heat no matter what setting or whether idle or moving. No water leaks. Reservoir full up. New battery and alternator too. I even disconnected the pipes and turned ignition on and could see the valve moving in and out when i turned ignition on and off. I just don't understand it. Please help. Is there any way i can just have it on hot all the time and replace the valve with pipes or something ?
Good decision to change waterpump - chemical and cavitation erosion soon dissolves pump impellers. Could be debris clogging up the heater matrix or trapped air. I assume the thermostat was changed and cooling system flushed out? (Ford recommendation) If the pipe leading from engine to HCV is hot (right hand pipe when facing bulkhead) but the pipe from HCV to matrix is cool then hot coolant isn't reaching the matrix. Next thing is to before condemning HCV is check to see if there's power at the HCV feed - a simple two pin plug. Voltage is only supplied to HCV when ignition is on. With an assistant, rotate heater control to see if voltage changes. If yes then at least the heater control board is working. Heater control boards can fail but I've only seen two boards fail to date. No doubt other Ford owners have had board/controller fails though. To check if the solenoid valve is seized, use a powered tester or failing that carefully connect it up to 12 volt supply or car battery using some jumper cables and small crocodile clips and put negative of battery to one of the contacts and positive cable to the other HCV connector. It should click as current actuates the plunger/valve. No click then chances are the solenoid coil is shot. The important part is to ensure the built in bypass port within the HCV is clear so coolant still flows back to engine if the HCV was shut for instance, i.e if the heater control was set to cold. If the bypass port clogs up due to silt or bits of HCV, it can cause overheating issues because coolant won't flow through matrix plus only a dribble will only get to return back into the cooling system. Ford never fitted bleed valves to their older cars so its easy to trap air in system when refilling after a coolant change or component swap. To remove trapped air; remove reservoir pressure cap, (COLD ENGINE ONLY) check the coolant level is correct, then run engine at idle. Then when top hose starts getting warm (which indicates thermostat is starting to open) squeeze hoses to help shift any trapped air back into the coolant reservoir. When top hose is hot replace cap tightly. A lazy thermostat that stays open will cause engine to run cooler and reduce heater output.
Thanks for that! I changed hcv and it has improved. It is now warm when revving high or driving with high revs. When idle. Barely remotely warm. Does this help any more ?
Easiest way is to drain down cooling system is by loosening off radiator cap/expansion tank pressure cap then the drain bolt at the front of the Endura E block. Once system drained, you remove radiator and reverse flush it through using clean water from garden hose. Reverse flush just means you bung the water in opposite direction it would flow with engine in use. While rad is off and draining out, do the same with matrix. Then carefully use garden hose to force water back through the top and bottom rad hoses until the water runs clean from engine block drain screw. Doesn't have to be high pressure and DON'T USE a pressure washer. Ideally put a plastic bag around the coil/distrubutor cap (if fitted). You can buy 'cooling system pre-cleaners' which are added to old coolant before draining down to help loosen off deposits, rusty silt etc. The important thing is to makes water runs clean and clear before tightening the block drain bolt, reinstalling the radiator, thermostat and hoses etc. Then and only then the new coolant is added.
MrThaiBox123 Has cooling system been flushed yet? Main reasons for low heater output is problem with HCV, silted up matrix (limescale deposits act as an insulator so reduced heat transfer to the cabin) low coolant level, insufficent pressure caused by weak pressure cap(tends to cause overheating and coolant loss), worn out pump blades or pump spinning on shaft, or thermostat sticking wide open all the time. One other possible reason is the heater distribution flaps within dashboard are not allowing full heated air to pass into the cabin.
Hi I have fitted a new HCV but the heater is still cold, both pipes from the engine are hot but the right hand one from the HCV is cold. Do you think the new one is faulty or have I got an air lock. Its a 2001 1.25 zetec Fiesta
Hi, it's not unknown to have a faulty new HCV especially if it's a non-Ford part but also check for airlock as the heater matrix is lower than the pipes so any trapped air will rise to the pipes behind the HCV. The other check is to see if the voltage at the HCV supply connector changes as the temperature control is turned. You'll need a digital test meter and the ignition on (but don't start engine). As the dial is turned the voltage changes. Since the HCV is just a solenoid operated tap with a spring that by default keeps it open so there's cabin heat, the current has to close the valve against spring pressure to reduce heat in cabin. This is why most failed HCV always provide full heat into cabin because without power, the valve is open. Unless it's blocked up by debris, rust, broken internals or failure of the control circuit behind the temperature control dial. Trapped air in the heater matrix circuit can be removed by removing reservoir cap - (engine must be cold!) then start it up and allow to idle. Keep an eye on temperature gauge. Then carefully squeeze the rad hoses to help shift any trapped air. Most times the heater self bleeds once engine is up to temperature. When you squeeze radiator top hose air bubble may 'burp' into the coolant reservoir. Replace the cap and check to see if the cabin heater works. Once engine is hot DONT undo coolant cap because risk of scalding.
hi pal changed heater control valve on a ford fiesta mk4 1.3 zetec getting hot air no cold air what could the problem be any help please thanks billy gregory
Hi, Since the HCV is by default always open (so hot air from heater) it might be a power supply problem since it needs current to the solenoid in order for the valve to shut thus stopping hot coolant to the matrix. Several reasons for constant heat is either; Blown fuse that feeds the control unit (the PCB behind the bit you turn to select temperature) The HCV is only powered when ignition is on or engine running. Failure of the actual control unit pcb. Failure of the HCV (so it's always 'open' thus always allowing hot coolant to flow through heater matrix) A break in the supply cable between control PCB and HCV. Corroded connector pins on HCV or its power supply. Worth noting that the HCV can start corroding under the solenoid cover and power supply connector if any moisture or a pinhole coolant leak has got into the solenoid. Easy way to check power supply and if the controller PCB is working is to put test leads on the HCV supply connector pins and with ignition on, get an assistant to turn the temperature controller while you note the voltage readings on the test meter. If PCB works you will see voltage rise or fall depending on if you're selecting hot or cold. Remember - the valve is always open from spring pressure so voltage should be zero. As cold is selected, the voltage increases so current thus magnetic field in solenoid starts overcoming spring pressure and closes the valve. You could either test for varying voltage or set test meter to resistance and note how the resistance changes as the control is turned since current is related to resistance.
Have a look on this blog post which shows the layout of the heater hoses with photographs; poshcoffeeco.hubpages.com/hub/How-to-replace-the-heater-control-valve
Just been looking through my photos of my old Fiesta which is basically the same layout as the Ka. Looking at the engine - so the heater valve is in front of you - the left hand heater-valve hose is the one which goes straight back towards front of car and the right hand heater valve hose tucks under the left hose soon as it leaves the heater valve/bulkhead and is routed to the left along the bulkhead. Hard to see as it's tucked down along the bulkhead/back of the engine/cylinder head. Hope this helps.
It can if the old HCV is breaking up inside or rusty, calcified debris (caused when using normal tap water instead of soft or deionised water) blocks the small built-in bypass channel moulded in the HCV body. If it blocks, coolant cannot flow through the unit and back to cooling system. The bypass is needed for when the heater is shut i.e. in summer months. Another reason for overheating is thermostat stuck closed, clogged radiator, silted up cylinder head and/or block coolant channels, worn waterpump, weak rad hose collapsing on the low pressure side of the pump, failing headgasket and failed expansion bottle pressure cap.
Hello I noticed smoke coming from under my bonnet on my mk5 fiesta so I had a look and it is coming from this part. It does however look like it's coming from the plug connection just above it. What should I do? Help would be much appreciated, thanks
DoodleBeanzz Leave it disconnected until you can investigate further. Is it definitely smoke, smell of burning or is it steam or water vapour? Maybe water leak has got into the electrical connector socket on the HCV or the feed wire? Do the wires feel hot? If so there's a short somewhere that isn't blowing the fuse. Make sure the correct rated fuse is fitted. Too high a fuse rating means if a short occurs (wire rubbing through insulation positive to neg wire or positive feed to earth/car body) the wires will burn before fuse blows.
***** i suspect it may have been steam as today, a very hot day, the smoke was almost pretty much gone. previous to this i noticed my heater was only blowing hot air so i have ordered a new valve and plan to replace it. there are a couple of other issues though; when i press a/c on the centre control piece there is no change in sound or change in the amount of air being blown/temperature etc, and it only really blows are (bar a minimal amount) when the recirculate button is pushed. are there other possible problems i should be concerned about or is a replaced heater valve likely to fix all this? thanks for your help
The aircon system is controlled by the ECU so any testing is specialist only however the basics can be done at home such as checking wiring to HCV, recirculation motor, cabin fan etc. The HCV can be replaced at home since it's same as a non aircon model HCV. Unfortunately anything related to the actual air conditioning needs a specialist because refrigerant gas has to be removed, weighed etc before the new stuff is put back (assuming rest of aircon is functioning and pressure tight) Check the simple things first; Make sure pollen filter is correctly fitted and not old or clogged up. Dirty filter will reduce airflow into the car and cause musty, dirty smells and increase condensation problem in colder, wetter weather. Does the cabin fan work at all selected speeds? (4 speeds) If not, it might be a blown speed resistor or partially seized fan motor. The recirculation feature relies on a motor actuator down by the lower dashboard. If motor or supply is broken, it won't work.
pauric mc ginley photosbypoggy Hose spring clip pliers. I think they were from Laser Tools. You can use normal pliers but spring clips can be awkward wotsits to remove - especially on old coolant hoses when both the hose and clip have 'dug in'. I often replace the clips with jubilee clips.
Dnt suppose anyone can help, ive fitted a new water tank, went well, the fan is making a lot if noise but i can do that another time. My problem is i think the water pipe which us placed on the righr if tbe engine at the back directly under the mannafold cover, its haed to get to but the water is just emptying straight away, u looked where it was cuming from and the pipe that was wet i cud see was split. Where wud i get a picture of it
I've seen some pictures of the pipes when I Googled it. The pipes run round the back of the engine and appear to be clipped together. I think I typed in 'Fiesta Endura-E coolant pipes'.
my ikon 1.3 rocam engine temperature on high even i swiched off engine about 24 hrs all fuses relays r ok and replaced all conections got unplugged battery conections removed about 3hrs problem is as it is
in reply to this comment just decided to go n spare ten minutes max removing it, skipped the removing the plastic trim part wasn't really necessary plus couldnt get collant tank off, mines is exactly the same coolant pushed into solanoid
Check fuse because the heater control unit and HCV only works when ignition is on and if the fuse has blown it won't work and neither will the heater control valve. Haynes manual or owners manual shows what fuse number protects the circuit. Rare that a PCB fails as it's usually the HCV that breaks or the fuse pops. Assuming of course the cooling system, heater matrix don't have other problems such as silted up, insufficient coolant as these will prevent heat output into the cabin.
Chers il do the hcv tomoz en I get part I checked thermostat that looks ok I duno we’re to change it just in case but my car doesn’t over heat so shouldn’t be that should it
Assuming coolant level is correct and engine is up to temperature, does the heater matrix supply hose feel hot? The supply hose has direction arrows on them indicating flow direction. Even though the heater valve works by pulse wave modulation from the control circuit, you can test for voltage at the HCV connector terminals with ignition on/engine on. It should vary as the heater control is turned.
@@Tony07UK I'm familiar with the R8 with the Honda engine, although there are members on the R8 Facebook page that are more familiar with the Rover engines. What's up with your car?
@@TK42138 Hi, - I found your video and like to see people who are practical, hands on and attempt DIY themselves. I've been paying attention to my cooling system for some months now - I've used Holts coolant repair/leak not just once but some 3 times since the beginning of the year (I know it can be risky) - I added 125ml twice (a few weeks apart) and the engine rough idle did eventually settle. One garage did a coolant compression check and gas analysis - confirming that there was a head gasket leak and that combustion gases were detected in the coolant. I've had the car some 22 years - Rovers are known for gasket problems and engine overheating - this is a 2nd engine (refurbished/reconditioned) - the original had gasket problems (silicon seal broke down) - even recently AA technician told me that the engine had design flaws (coolant channels in the engine block are very narrow) Despite this, I kept the car and even the 2nd engine gasket went - a private mechanic dismantled it to find the same type silicon bead head gasket, though by this time I had learned about the replacement MLS head gasket replacement. This has lasted until now - I've had engine temperature problems and by now understanding the nature of these problems quite well, I had a garage change the thermostat as I couldn't access this myself. So far I have managed to get away with another head gasket replacement - I'm on to my second 250ml bottle of Holts and recently added 100ml to the coolant. Last week called AA for a home start as I knew from what I had read online that the engine was hydrolocked - I could tell by the clunk sound. As I couldn't find my spark-plug socket immediately, I simply called the AA and told them that the plugs needed removing to check for water (coolant) in the cyclinders. AA technician confirmed this as when I turned the engine over (via starter) coolant came out of cylinder no.3 - I had brand new spark plugs that I'd ordered months previously, but the AA man said he wouldn't fit them - nevertheless, he let me use his socket wrench to fit them myself (I have since found my socket in case I need to remove the plug) - I told him that I intended to add the coolant repair leak and see how it went. I signed off the attendance record to release him of any liability - he advised me (as have the garages) to get rid of the car - his report stated: engine has come to end of service life. He also said I could get £100 for the car and get another 2nd hand Rover for £500. I do have a sense of humour, but having recently spent some £400 on replacement clutch parts (incl labour at a local garage) I'm definitely keeping the car. Since the AA visit the car has been running o.k - I've been using it every day since last Thursday. I had it standing for 3 days last week from Sunday evening to Wednesday evening and during this time sufficient coolant had leaked into the cylinder causing a lock. I'm now looking at the heater matrix and want to remove the control valve for cleaning - I've located it under the bonnet and operating it by hand is quite tight, which explains why the internal heater control can't move it. I've been dealing with airlocks and am considering flushing the whole system. Do you know if I can access and remove the heater core (matrix) on this Rover or at least remove the control valve - it's in a very awkward position. I doubt WD40 will loosen the valve operation - I'd rather dismantle it and clean it thoroughly. Any advice? Your Fiesta is much easier to work on as I've noticed.
my ikon 1.3 rocam engine temperature on high even i swiched off engine about 24 hrs all fuses relays r ok and replaced all conections got unplugged battery conections removed about 3hrs problem is as it is
Hi, The temperature gauge is showing high or in the red even on a cold engine? Sounds like temperature sender has earthed out causing needle to stay in the hot zone. Need to check wiring to sender unit or remove it then carry out resistance check while sender is placed in hot water to see if resistance changes. Important to note that the temperature gauge sender is not related to the ECM coolant temperature sensor.
Just been looking on several Ford forums and there was a mention of faulty coolant temperature sensor causing fan to run all the time. These need diagnostic equipment to check them as the ECM controls cooling fan operation via coolant temperature sensor. According to Ford manual, there is a separate gauge sender. Other causes of fan running all the time is trapped air, leaking coolant expansion bottle cap, failing thermostat. The combined thermostat, housing and coolant sensor unit are well known for causing problems as the plastic can distort or break up internally. Found this. Might be useful. workshop-manuals.com/ford/ikon_1999_01.2000/mechanical_repairs/3_powertrain/303_engine/303-03_engine_cooling/description_and_operation/diagnosis_and_testing/engine_cooling/
my ikon 1.3 rocam engine temperature on high even i swiched off engine about 24 hrs all fuses relays r ok and replaced all conections got unplugged battery conections removed about 3hrs problem is as it is
Thank you SO MUCH for these detailed tutorial videos! They have helped me replace the part myself as not many shops in my country take up such a task, or overprice for the same service. The videos were incredibly helpful! Wishing you all the best!
Next time I replace coolant, I'll be sure to flush through with rad flush or something and hosepipe it first before filling it back up. I appreciate all your help, you're a legend
I'm 24 years old, only ever touched a car to check the water and oil... Just wanted to say thank you so much for the guide as it turns out I had a faulty HCV. Ordered the part for just £9 and fitted it myself. Saved about £80 for an hours work. Literally fitted 30 mins ago and now producing heat as good as ever. Much appreciated!
Thanks for watching, glad it helped.
What’s the part number, do you know?
Wonderful video! I was having fun with my family on our Fiesta 2000 and it was really a moving sauna, and we live in Israel where the summer didn't arrive yet.
Your video will be of a great help on fixing it. Thank you!
Mine was fixed on "cold". Encouraged by how easy you make it look, I disconnected mine today. Bloody coolant drain plug was rusted solid, so I siphoned it down instead. It was all in really good order: not seized, all flowing well. I put the electrics back on to observe if the valve was moving and it thunked in and out as I connected and disconnected the 12V. I reckon my problem is actually with the central console knob. So that's next weekends job!! Thanks for your enthusiastic help so far!
You are a very good mechanic! Im attempting this on my Mrs Ford KA 2003 which is just blowing cold air. I'll firstly test the voltage to the solenoid before i attempt replacement. Thanks for the video! :)
Thanks for the reply. I have checked the hoses and the bottom hose is as boiling as the top. Also I noticed that when the engine was hot, the red/orangy coolant looked like it was going transparent in the expansion tank... just never noticed that before. I have changed the fans fuse (I'm sure it was the right one), have not heard of a thermoswitch. I was thinkin of maybe draining the coolant and do a flush/renew with antifreeze/water. Thanks for your help, you're a saviour mate!
cheers for the replies mate, yeah shouldn't be a problem thanks to your videos, the motor never overheated prior, the coolant had not been changed for 5 years though (previous owner) and sometimes the heater would play up (on hot when set to cool taking ages to cool down e.t.c). I have since done a coolant change which was fine for about 2-3 weeks then this overheat happened and keeps happening, have tried to burp the system numerous times so going to try the H.C.V swap first
Thanks for the tutorial. Good to know. Like you say garage prices are heavy. Me, I'm no mechanic but your vids may help me.
thank you for ur help and advice! This was my first ever fix and it worked right away
Not fully fixed it seems. It only heats now instead of both heating and cooling. Before the fix it only cooled.
U have any idea what might have caused thuis?
hiya mate good vid saved to my favs for tomorrow. my mk5 heater is stuck on full and yeah its bloody warm in summer, now its started to overheat since yesterday, hoping to change this out and get back to normal with the help of your video, heres hoping it aint the head
Thanks mate, really helpful tutorial.
Thanks for the vid-very usful. My Ka has exact same problem (no heat)
Got it back from garage and they said the small top hose from the thermostat housing to the expansion tank has a restrictor inside it that had become clogged with rusty muck. They also say that after cleaning the pipe out, the car was reaching optimal temp of 107 degrees and fan was kicking in and cooling. Can't be sure if I'm being led on, but whatever, as long as the car don't explode I'm happy. Something so simple like a clogged pipe can reek havoc.
Thanks for the replys. I have not had a temp warning light come on, it does illuminate and dissapear when ignition is on... this sort of leads me to believe that maybe the engine isn't overheating and maybe normal operating temp. I can't imagine it being the thermo, I only replaced that not long ago with genuine ford part and the pipes have never been this hot. Literally as soon as I put that HCV in, it got insanely hot. Wierd, will let the garage look it over and I'll report back, thanks 4 help
Hi there TK42138. SOLVED! I replaced the HVC and now have a fully working heating and cooling system. Both hot and cold work. I did the repair last night and all went well it took about 1 hour all together as I cleaned up all scuttle from dirt and mud that had built up.
I got my part from Unipart £25 including VAT. The actual solenoid part looked alot more higher quality than the part I took off. Again many thanks for the video and advice!
Thanks a lot for that info. Was gonna do thermostat as well as they not to expensive. Light not on so think all is well with rad
Thanks for this - very helpful in doing the job.
Hi hope you had a nice holiday and thanks for the reply , not sure about taking the matrix out as i also have air con pipes sticking out of that area lol will have a look tomorrow also what would you say was the best way to do a complete flush on the cooling system ie best inlet and the best outlet .many thanks
Yea the fan isn't kickin in, but I know it works because the garage had the car flushed through a while ago and they said they left the engine on with everything on lights, wipers, heater ..ect. Then the fan kicked in. I was then advised it could be thermostat problem but after changing the thermo and coolant I have never heard or noticed the fan kick in to date and have had the car nearly a year. I will check again the bottom rad hose. should it be same temp as top hose then? cheers
Hi thanks for showing us this video . ive just changed the heater control valve on my 1999 fiesta which was only blowing hot air but now i have changed it and its now only blowing cold air ,have i done something wrong or missed something pls advise if poss. cheers
hiya mate well went to local scrappies....got a valve thats stuck on cold "seized solid" went back and canabalised a puma....wont blow cool stuck on heater again....so one seized on colds in just now atleast i wont pass out with heat and even though its stuck the engines not overheating cooling fans not even came on once. will do until i purchase a new one and it gets here
Great video. If i disconnect the 4 small hoses attached to the hcv, will i loose all my coolant or will it stop flowing? Just bought a new hcv for 46 quid and dont fancy paying out for another 5 litres of coolant seeing as i only flushed system few weeks ago. Thanks mate.
Sounds a bit dense, but what device do I use and how do I run 12 volts to the fan terminals? Also, I read that some faulty HCV's would cause overheating and Ford updated the units to solve this issue... which leads me to believe I might have been better off buying brand new from dealer rather than breakers. But surely if the one I got from scrap was faulty it wouldn't blow hot and cold? only one or the other. Thanks again mate.
yeah it never overheated in the warm weather. its only started after the heater got stuck on full heat 24/7 cannot turn it off, aka the HCV has got stuck in full open, i aint replaced the valve yet doing it tomorrow if i can get a hold of one and will make sure to air bleed after
Great video thanks TK4, however I appear to have a really weird problem with the heater in my mk4 fiesta (2000) when the heat it set to cold it will stay cold no problem. however when the heat is on it is very erratic. with engine warmed up (thermostat needle in normal position) will heat setting on full sometimes the heat come on straight away, sometimes will only warm slightly and sometimes you could be driving for over an hour and blowing cold air then suddenly the heat will come on. ideas?
hi i have the same engine in my car, i can't seem to figure out where my fan switch is? do you have a diagram or video show how the cooling system works
So the HCV I put in from scrappy could be causing the overheating? Even though it allows hot and cold it could still be faulty? Sorry, this is driving me crazy. I tested the fan and it does work... nearly lost a hand finding out. I'v got it in a garage on saturday, the guy said something about testing the actual temprature of the engine. I assume he means the coolant temp sensor. I can see them trying to replace a load of stuff. If thats the case I'l just buy a brand new HCV and try that
defo holding pressure, opened it today when it overheated (needle right into red) and there was plenty of pressure behind it believe me lol, also the pump seems to be working as when stationary the needle began falling to operating temp and fan kicked in then went off, i have also checked all hoses as suggested and tried numerous times at system "burping", like a say it ran fine for 2-3 weeks on the coolant change no eratic temp deveations,the fan would only come on if drove hard on the motorway
Thanks I’m guna do mine wen part comes as guessing this is the issue no heat in fiesta
3 weeks back, first time in atleast five years (previous owner never changed), flushed with water, flushing agent, cooled, flushed through again with water, correct mix of fresh anti freeze and water applied and just the 1.25
I'v just changed the HCV, but now I'v noticed the top rad hose is extremely hot after idling for 10 min or so. Not sure if this is normal but never noticed it before
what sort of hose pilers do I need to do the job...Great vids
Cheers - To remove those annoying spring clamps you'll either need a dedicated springclamp removal tool which are similar to pliers but with special ends. There's also remote version for removing hard to reach spring clamps. For the heater matric and HCV clamps, a big pair of pliers etc will suffice. I tend to replace spring clamps with stainless steel jubilee/worm-drive clamps.
Very nice video, many thanks. I am still trying to identify the reason why I am not getting heat in the cabin, before replacing HCV. What does it mean if all the hoses connected to the HCV are warm? When engine is properly warmed and I drive on the motorway there is a bit of warm air coming out of the vents with speed switch on 0. When I turn it to any of the 4 positions cold air is coming out.
Davor Mirkovic When there's some heat when fan is at idle but it goes cold when cabin fan turned up, it's because the windchill effect of the increased airflow wipes out what little warmth is coming from the heater matrix. Lack of heat from the matrix can be due to low coolant level, partial blockage or silting up of matrix, coolant hoses and pipes, malfunction or blockage of HCV, partial opening of warm air distribution flap or cold air flap not closing off within dashboard (different car makes use different methods for heat and cool air selection and distribution) or cooling system thermostat that's sticking open all the time causing engine to run a lot cooler thus reducing heater output. Does your temperature gauge go into the normal zone when car has been driven for at least 15 minutes?
Thanks for all the info. I temporarily solved the problem by bypassing HCV. My engine does run a bit cooler, gauge hardly goes above 1/4 at idle with this colder weather. When driven it reaches normal temp, but quite slow. I replaced the thermostat and it is still the same.
What if i connect those pipes directy....without this valve ....during winter ..or is it compulsory to install it....
Yes - you can connect the pipes directly so cabin heater is constantly warm. There's no law pertaining to heater valves. So long as the windows can be kept clear and the driver has good visibility/can see out.
I did the same when I originally got the Fiesta. I used two plastic pipe connectors and four hose jubilee clips from Halfords so coolant permanently flowed through the heater matrix.
@@TK42138 thanku so much...i will do it tomorrow and let u know if it works fine.....
I did it and it works perfectly....
Hi There,
TK42138, I have taken a look at replacing the HCV today and im really confused. (only blowing cold air)
Can I assume the HCV is faulty if the right hand pipe going into the car is cold. The left hand pipe is hot and both pipes from the engine bay running into the HCV are both hot!
I have tested voltage and there is a change from cold to hot so the panel looks good?
Can you confirm TK42138. Ive also topped up coolant.
Many thanks for the help
You mentioned that the heater valve was closed or fully shut, which meant there was no heat. How does it shut, if you don't mind me asking? Is it done manually or do you mean clogging?
I have the problem in my fiesta02 enduro engine of constant cold air. Gonna get myself a new hcv and fit it. Just one question, my radiator fan never seems to come on. Is there a way of checking its ok? Thanks for the video
please help i have a 98 fiesta looks exactly the same as this i have replaced the valve but cant remember which is the left and which went to the righ is the left the one with the temp sender or without
hello on my fiesta I am French this one to this problem no circulation engine turning because solenoid valve closed, motor stopped solenoid valve open so never heating I think to remove this valve because I do not understand its operation or it has a problem
Thank you
Hi TK, I've got one of these cars (same year) the heater is always hot, I've check the valve and its been removed ... Just replaced with pipes.. Question is can this cause damage to the car?
Could this be a solution for a KA heater stuck on hot too? I'm getting my face melted off me the whole time and it's too expensive to have it done by a garage.
Yes as this type of heater valve usually fails open so cabin heat available permanently but bare in mind the control circuit board can also fail but it's usually the valve.
At about 3.55 you say that the heater valve is fully closed. What is the reason it is closed? Is there something in it? Sorry, maybe a stupid question but I don't know anything about cars, and I have a Ford Ka with a heater that doesn't work. Coolant fluid level is ok though. So I thought I'd watch this. Thanks in advance.
The default setting on the heater control valve is 'closed' due to a spring within the unit. When ignition is off or heater control is set to cold, current to the solenoid is reduced or cut so spring closes the valve which stops hot coolant circulating through the heater matrix. Common fault with these HCV is solenoid failure due to coolant leaking past valve diaphragm or circuit failure from blown fuse or heater control circuit failure which is a printed circuit board behind the twist control on the dashboard. The Ford part is better quality than pattern parts however the design itself is flawed. If it cruds up or breaks up internally and blocks the HCV bypass port within the unit, it can lead to overheating as coolant then struggles to flow when valve is shut. If yours isn't working but coolant is correct level then check for voltage at the HCV connector when ignition is on. It should vary as cabin heater control is turned from cold to hot.
@@TK42138 thank you for replying so fast. I am not English speaking (not the technical English anyway) so I'm trying to understand. It will take a while :) In the meantime: were can I find the fuse?
One more question if I may...where do I find the radiator knob to open the radiator. I’ve seen photographs of cars where there is a knob at the top of the radiator, but my radiator has none? So how can I check if there is enough fluid (water or what?) in it? Please help, thank you.
Very informative video, my sister complained today that the heaters had stopped working in the fiesta. Fans blowing but no heat coming out, coolant level is normal. Looking at the internet the heater valve seems to be the likey culprit. Is there any way of diagnosing or anything else I should check before replacing it?
Thank you! Check fuses as feed for HCV is ignition live only so blown fuse will prevent heater control panel from actuating the HCV. Also ensure cooling system is totally free of the rusty, silty nastiness that can gum up the cooling system. Even a thin layer of calcification will act as an insulator to prevent efficient heat transfer to the radiator and since the silt will reduce coolant flow it will just add thermal load to the engine. The iron block and head Endura E OHV lumps are susceptible to furring up so need the long life high quality anti-freeze mix and regular flush outs. I would check the matrix pipes when heater is set to hot. If they are hot then HCV is allowing hot coolant to flow into the matix. If the pipes remain cold but the outlet from HCV is warm/hot, then hot coolant is flowing through the built in bypass in the HCV and back into the cooling system loop but not flowing into the matrix. The HCV bypass is the horizontal tube-like moulding between the pipes inlet/outlet. Worth noting that if this bypass blocks up, it can affect cooling function on engine and cause overheating if severly blocked up. I recommend Ford original quality HCV's as pattern parts are variable quality and I've had a few fail in short space of time despite following Ford's service bulletin advice of complete flush through and new thermostat fitting before replacing HCV.
thanks everso much!
Hi, great video. I've had this problem before but got the garage to fix it. I have the problem again, this time it's always hot. I've ordered the part, but if I disconnect the power lead to the control valve would this be ok till I replace as the consent hot air is really uncomfortable?
Unfortunately the default valve position is always open due to spring pressure within the HCV. It needs current supplied to it to keep it closed or 'cold'. When the heater control is set to cold, current energises the solenoid which pulls it shut so hot coolant can't flow through matrix.
Thanks for replying, I'll just have to wait until I receive the part and just have the windows open
Had some advice from an AA man. Be careful when disconnecting the hoses from the heater valve as they can be prone to snap off.
How about when the heater hoses are all hot around the HCV, and the car keeps pushing cold air only inside the cabin? The thermostat has been changed, at least there's a receipt of a new thermostat, I'm not quite sure if it has been fitted or no, although the fluids are new and clean, therefore one could expect that the thermostat has been changed too. If the inner hoses (the ones that go in and out of the heater core) are hot, shouldn't the heater core be hot too?
Markus Korhonen Yes, if the inlet pipe to matrix is hot and the return is warm then the matrix should be kicking out heat. If not then check air distribution flap control is diverting air flow to the designated areas such as windscreen, facia vents, feet/footwells etc. Also need to check air inlet from outside to the fan as debris, wet leaves can build up and cause reduced airflow into the cabin. Worth noting that even though the matrix feed and return pipes can feel hot to the touch, if the matrix is clogged or has layer of limescale build up in the coolant passages, it can act as an insulator which stops heat transfer from coolant to the cabin air that's passing over it. Also check the cabin air recirculation setting isn't on. Low coolant level will also affect heater output. Ensure level is correct. If thermostat is present and working, the radiator top hose will be hot when engine is warmed up.
Hi, I had a problem with my heater valve - it was blowing just cold air all the time. bought a new one, now it's just blowing hot air all the time. This is gonna be bad in summer! It's already bad for long trips on the motorway! Any help please?
Hi, please ensure the connector terminals are clean and free from dirt, corrosion or the nasty green deposits often seen on old electrical components that are exposed to damp and heat. Next, check fuses. Power to the HCV comes via the controller on the fascia and that only works when the ignition is on. If it's supply fuse has blown then there's no power to the HCV. If fuses are intact then with ignition ON, test to see if voltage varies at the HCV supply connector as the control knob is turned from cold to full heat. If the voltage does change then HCV itself might be duff or stuck. Vitally important to ensure cooling system is totally clean and has no rusty silt inside which can cause HCV valve to stick. Another way of testing to see if the fault lies with the HCV or the variable resistor circuit on the controller (behind the heater control) is to measure resistance of the HCV supply connector as an assistant turns the heater on. Resistance should change since the variable resistor dictates how much current (thus voltage) reaches the solenoid in the HCV. I've only seen a handful of failed controllers but I've seen many more failed or failing HCV's.
do you need to bleed the cooling system after doing this?
Hi my sons 2010 fiesta demister is not working I wound if thats the problem.
I'm not familiar with this age of Fiesta and the HCV design is different on this car. I think there's a known issue with heater flap control which can affect heat output. Having said that, well worth checking the coolant level because if it's dropped and is too low then heater output will be affected. I have seen some RUclips videos on later Fiesta heating and ventilation controls so may be worth searching on here or Google as guarantee someone has had same problem.
I got Ford indura 98 model doesn't want to start but dashboard is showing
Is engine cranking?
Hi, is it possible to diagnose the knob functionality?
As far as I know, this valve will open when not energized, and close when energized. Is this correct?
I always have 12V on my plug, whatever the knob position is.
If I disconnect the plug, no hot air inside, so the valve must be really stucked.
Can you tell me if when I rotate the knob I should get different voltage readings on the two pins of the plug?
Thanks in advance.
+ahlidaptm The default setting of the HCV is open due to internal spring pressure within the valve. It depends on electrical feed from heater control panel to supply voltage to the HCV solenoid to overcome spring pressure to close the valve for example in warmer weather when cabin heat is not needed. To test function of heater controller, you need to put test meter on the supply connector to the HCV while the control is turned from cold to hot. You should see the voltage vary which changes current in HCV solenoid which will pull valve shut.
La un fiesta model 2011,unde se afla valva ?
Hi i am having nightmares with my courier van. I have had no heat for ages. It used to get heat when it was being revved and cold when idle so i changed water pump as vanes were gone. Now its just cold all the time. I replaced the HCV but maybe its broken again ? Ill buy another one and try. However. All the pipes that are attached to it get hot. I have a new water pump so vanes are good on that. Radiator fan never comes on ? I don't know if this is connected ? All pipes seem hot to me. No heat no matter what setting or whether idle or moving. No water leaks. Reservoir full up. New battery and alternator too. I even disconnected the pipes and turned ignition on and could see the valve moving in and out when i turned ignition on and off. I just don't understand it. Please help. Is there any way i can just have it on hot all the time and replace the valve with pipes or something ?
Good decision to change waterpump - chemical and cavitation erosion soon dissolves pump impellers.
Could be debris clogging up the heater matrix or trapped air. I assume the thermostat was changed and cooling system flushed out? (Ford recommendation)
If the pipe leading from engine to HCV is hot (right hand pipe when facing bulkhead) but the pipe from HCV to matrix is cool then hot coolant isn't reaching the matrix. Next thing is to before condemning HCV is check to see if there's power at the HCV feed - a simple two pin plug. Voltage is only supplied to HCV when ignition is on. With an assistant, rotate heater control to see if voltage changes. If yes then at least the heater control board is working. Heater control boards can fail but I've only seen two boards fail to date. No doubt other Ford owners have had board/controller fails though.
To check if the solenoid valve is seized, use a powered tester or failing that carefully connect it up to 12 volt supply or car battery using some jumper cables and small crocodile clips and put negative of battery to one of the contacts and positive cable to the other HCV connector. It should click as current actuates the plunger/valve. No click then chances are the solenoid coil is shot.
The important part is to ensure the built in bypass port within the HCV is clear so coolant still flows back to engine if the HCV was shut for instance, i.e if the heater control was set to cold. If the bypass port clogs up due to silt or bits of HCV, it can cause overheating issues because coolant won't flow through matrix plus only a dribble will only get to return back into the cooling system.
Ford never fitted bleed valves to their older cars so its easy to trap air in system when refilling after a coolant change or component swap. To remove trapped air; remove reservoir pressure cap, (COLD ENGINE ONLY) check the coolant level is correct, then run engine at idle. Then when top hose starts getting warm (which indicates thermostat is starting to open) squeeze hoses to help shift any trapped air back into the coolant reservoir. When top hose is hot replace cap tightly. A lazy thermostat that stays open will cause engine to run cooler and reduce heater output.
Thanks for that! I changed hcv and it has improved. It is now warm when revving high or driving with high revs. When idle. Barely remotely warm. Does this help any more ?
How do you flush cooling system ?
Easiest way is to drain down cooling system is by loosening off radiator cap/expansion tank pressure cap then the drain bolt at the front of the Endura E block. Once system drained, you remove radiator and reverse flush it through using clean water from garden hose. Reverse flush just means you bung the water in opposite direction it would flow with engine in use. While rad is off and draining out, do the same with matrix. Then carefully use garden hose to force water back through the top and bottom rad hoses until the water runs clean from engine block drain screw. Doesn't have to be high pressure and DON'T USE a pressure washer. Ideally put a plastic bag around the coil/distrubutor cap (if fitted). You can buy 'cooling system pre-cleaners' which are added to old coolant before draining down to help loosen off deposits, rusty silt etc. The important thing is to makes water runs clean and clear before tightening the block drain bolt, reinstalling the radiator, thermostat and hoses etc. Then and only then the new coolant is added.
MrThaiBox123 Has cooling system been flushed yet? Main reasons for low heater output is problem with HCV, silted up matrix (limescale deposits act as an insulator so reduced heat transfer to the cabin) low coolant level, insufficent pressure caused by weak pressure cap(tends to cause overheating and coolant loss), worn out pump blades or pump spinning on shaft, or thermostat sticking wide open all the time. One other possible reason is the heater distribution flaps within dashboard are not allowing full heated air to pass into the cabin.
Hi I have fitted a new HCV but the heater is still cold, both pipes from the engine are hot but the right hand one from the HCV is cold.
Do you think the new one is faulty or have I got an air lock.
Its a 2001 1.25 zetec Fiesta
Hi, it's not unknown to have a faulty new HCV especially if it's a non-Ford part but also check for airlock as the heater matrix is lower than the pipes so any trapped air will rise to the pipes behind the HCV. The other check is to see if the voltage at the HCV supply connector changes as the temperature control is turned. You'll need a digital test meter and the ignition on (but don't start engine). As the dial is turned the voltage changes. Since the HCV is just a solenoid operated tap with a spring that by default keeps it open so there's cabin heat, the current has to close the valve against spring pressure to reduce heat in cabin. This is why most failed HCV always provide full heat into cabin because without power, the valve is open. Unless it's blocked up by debris, rust, broken internals or failure of the control circuit behind the temperature control dial. Trapped air in the heater matrix circuit can be removed by removing reservoir cap - (engine must be cold!) then start it up and allow to idle. Keep an eye on temperature gauge. Then carefully squeeze the rad hoses to help shift any trapped air. Most times the heater self bleeds once engine is up to temperature. When you squeeze radiator top hose air bubble may 'burp' into the coolant reservoir. Replace the cap and check to see if the cabin heater works. Once engine is hot DONT undo coolant cap because risk of scalding.
@@TK42138 Thanks, I have removed it to send it back, and have joined the pipes with copper tube for now so I have heat.
hi pal changed heater control valve on a ford fiesta mk4 1.3 zetec getting hot air no cold air what could the problem be any help please thanks billy gregory
Hi,
Since the HCV is by default always open (so hot air from heater) it might be a power supply problem since it needs current to the solenoid in order for the valve to shut thus stopping hot coolant to the matrix. Several reasons for constant heat is either;
Blown fuse that feeds the control unit (the PCB behind the bit you turn to select temperature) The HCV is only powered when ignition is on or engine running.
Failure of the actual control unit pcb.
Failure of the HCV (so it's always 'open' thus always allowing hot coolant to flow through heater matrix)
A break in the supply cable between control PCB and HCV.
Corroded connector pins on HCV or its power supply.
Worth noting that the HCV can start corroding under the solenoid cover and power supply connector if any moisture or a pinhole coolant leak has got into the solenoid.
Easy way to check power supply and if the controller PCB is working is to put test leads on the HCV supply connector pins and with ignition on, get an assistant to turn the temperature controller while you note the voltage readings on the test meter. If PCB works you will see voltage rise or fall depending on if you're selecting hot or cold. Remember - the valve is always open from spring pressure so voltage should be zero. As cold is selected, the voltage increases so current thus magnetic field in solenoid starts overcoming spring pressure and closes the valve.
You could either test for varying voltage or set test meter to resistance and note how the resistance changes as the control is turned since current is related to resistance.
Hello sir I mix up about the hose going to engine I forgot to mark them before removing.....just give me clue pls
Hi, what car is it?
Ford ka 2001
Have a look on this blog post which shows the layout of the heater hoses with photographs;
poshcoffeeco.hubpages.com/hub/How-to-replace-the-heater-control-valve
Just been looking through my photos of my old Fiesta which is basically the same layout as the Ka. Looking at the engine - so the heater valve is in front of you - the left hand heater-valve hose is the one which goes straight back towards front of car and the right hand heater valve hose tucks under the left hose soon as it leaves the heater valve/bulkhead and is routed to the left along the bulkhead. Hard to see as it's tucked down along the bulkhead/back of the engine/cylinder head.
Hope this helps.
Does a faulty heater valve cause over heating....
It can if the old HCV is breaking up inside or rusty, calcified debris (caused when using normal tap water instead of soft or deionised water) blocks the small built-in bypass channel moulded in the HCV body. If it blocks, coolant cannot flow through the unit and back to cooling system. The bypass is needed for when the heater is shut i.e. in summer months. Another reason for overheating is thermostat stuck closed, clogged radiator, silted up cylinder head and/or block coolant channels, worn waterpump, weak rad hose collapsing on the low pressure side of the pump, failing headgasket and failed expansion bottle pressure cap.
Hello I noticed smoke coming from under my bonnet on my mk5 fiesta so I had a look and it is coming from this part. It does however look like it's coming from the plug connection just above it. What should I do? Help would be much appreciated, thanks
DoodleBeanzz Leave it disconnected until you can investigate further. Is it definitely smoke, smell of burning or is it steam or water vapour? Maybe water leak has got into the electrical connector socket on the HCV or the feed wire? Do the wires feel hot? If so there's a short somewhere that isn't blowing the fuse. Make sure the correct rated fuse is fitted. Too high a fuse rating means if a short occurs (wire rubbing through insulation positive to neg wire or positive feed to earth/car body) the wires will burn before fuse blows.
***** i suspect it may have been steam as today, a very hot day, the smoke was almost pretty much gone. previous to this i noticed my heater was only blowing hot air so i have ordered a new valve and plan to replace it. there are a couple of other issues though; when i press a/c on the centre control piece there is no change in sound or change in the amount of air being blown/temperature etc, and it only really blows are (bar a minimal amount) when the recirculate button is pushed. are there other possible problems i should be concerned about or is a replaced heater valve likely to fix all this? thanks for your help
The aircon system is controlled by the ECU so any testing is specialist only however the basics can be done at home such as checking wiring to HCV, recirculation motor, cabin fan etc. The HCV can be replaced at home since it's same as a non aircon model HCV. Unfortunately anything related to the actual air conditioning needs a specialist because refrigerant gas has to be removed, weighed etc before the new stuff is put back (assuming rest of aircon is functioning and pressure tight)
Check the simple things first;
Make sure pollen filter is correctly fitted and not old or clogged up. Dirty filter will reduce airflow into the car and cause musty, dirty smells and increase condensation problem in colder, wetter weather.
Does the cabin fan work at all selected speeds? (4 speeds) If not, it might be a blown speed resistor or partially seized fan motor.
The recirculation feature relies on a motor actuator down by the lower dashboard. If motor or supply is broken, it won't work.
thanks for your incredibly helpful replies, its not often someone on youtube is so attentive :) i shall do what you have said and get back to you.
You're welcome. Hope you manage to fix it.
whats the tool you use to remove clips
pauric mc ginley photosbypoggy Hose spring clip pliers. I think they were from Laser Tools. You can use normal pliers but spring clips can be awkward wotsits to remove - especially on old coolant hoses when both the hose and clip have 'dug in'. I often replace the clips with jubilee clips.
Dnt suppose anyone can help, ive fitted a new water tank, went well, the fan is making a lot if noise but i can do that another time. My problem is i think the water pipe which us placed on the righr if tbe engine at the back directly under the mannafold cover, its haed to get to but the water is just emptying straight away, u looked where it was cuming from and the pipe that was wet i cud see was split. Where wud i get a picture of it
I've seen some pictures of the pipes when I Googled it. The pipes run round the back of the engine and appear to be clipped together. I think I typed in 'Fiesta Endura-E coolant pipes'.
my ikon 1.3 rocam engine temperature on high even i swiched off engine about 24 hrs
all fuses relays r ok and replaced all conections got unplugged
battery conections removed about 3hrs
problem is as it is
in reply to this comment just decided to go n spare ten minutes max removing it, skipped the removing the plastic trim part wasn't really necessary plus couldnt get collant tank off, mines is exactly the same coolant pushed into solanoid
If this doesn’t work else could be??
Check fuse because the heater control unit and HCV only works when ignition is on and if the fuse has blown it won't work and neither will the heater control valve. Haynes manual or owners manual shows what fuse number protects the circuit. Rare that a PCB fails as it's usually the HCV that breaks or the fuse pops.
Assuming of course the cooling system, heater matrix don't have other problems such as silted up, insufficient coolant as these will prevent heat output into the cabin.
Chers il do the hcv tomoz en I get part I checked thermostat that looks ok I duno we’re to change it just in case but my car doesn’t over heat so shouldn’t be that should it
Changed the valve and stil no hot air any ideas what it could be ?
Assuming coolant level is correct and engine is up to temperature, does the heater matrix supply hose feel hot? The supply hose has direction arrows on them indicating flow direction.
Even though the heater valve works by pulse wave modulation from the control circuit, you can test for voltage at the HCV connector terminals with ignition on/engine on. It should vary as the heater control is turned.
@@TK42138 I es think fuse but don’t no witch one and pipes are hot
mine completely failed on me was working normal then bang the pipe snapped off XD
Wearing a wrist watch while working under the bonnet - really stupid for many obvious reasons!
Oops - guilty as charged. Normally I don't however in this example the battery was disconnected and engine wasn't running.
@@TK42138 You wouldn't happen to know anything about Rover cars - the 1996 414Si models ?
@@Tony07UK I'm familiar with the R8 with the Honda engine, although there are members on the R8 Facebook page that are more familiar with the Rover engines. What's up with your car?
@@Tony07UK I think I've managed to get my Autodata CD for XP to work on my Win 7 pc, so I may be able to check some of the Rover 414 Si data for you.
@@TK42138 Hi, - I found your video and like to see people who are practical, hands on and attempt DIY themselves.
I've been paying attention to my cooling system for some months now - I've used Holts coolant repair/leak not just once but some 3 times since the beginning of the year (I know it can be risky) - I added 125ml twice (a few weeks apart) and the engine rough idle did eventually settle. One garage did a coolant compression check and gas analysis - confirming that there was a head gasket leak and that combustion gases were detected in the coolant.
I've had the car some 22 years - Rovers are known for gasket problems and engine overheating - this is a 2nd engine (refurbished/reconditioned) - the original had gasket problems (silicon seal broke down) - even recently AA technician told me that the engine had design flaws (coolant channels in the engine block are very narrow)
Despite this, I kept the car and even the 2nd engine gasket went - a private mechanic dismantled it to find the same type silicon bead head gasket, though by this time I had learned about the replacement MLS head gasket replacement. This has lasted until now - I've had engine temperature problems and by now understanding the nature of these problems quite well, I had a garage change the thermostat as I couldn't access this myself.
So far I have managed to get away with another head gasket replacement - I'm on to my second 250ml bottle of Holts and recently added 100ml to the coolant. Last week called AA for a home start as I knew from what I had read online that the engine was hydrolocked - I could tell by the clunk sound. As I couldn't find my spark-plug socket immediately, I simply called the AA and told them that the plugs needed removing to check for water (coolant) in the cyclinders. AA technician confirmed this as when I turned the engine over (via starter) coolant came out of cylinder no.3 - I had brand new spark plugs that I'd ordered months previously, but the AA man said he wouldn't fit them - nevertheless, he let me use his socket wrench to fit them myself (I have since found my socket in case I need to remove the plug) - I told him that I intended to add the coolant repair leak and see how it went. I signed off the attendance record to release him of any liability - he advised me (as have the garages) to get rid of the car - his report stated: engine has come to end of service life. He also said I could get £100 for the car and get another 2nd hand Rover for £500. I do have a sense of humour, but having recently spent some £400 on replacement clutch parts (incl labour at a local garage) I'm definitely keeping the car.
Since the AA visit the car has been running o.k - I've been using it every day since last Thursday. I had it standing for 3 days last week from Sunday evening to Wednesday evening and during this time sufficient coolant had leaked into the cylinder causing a lock.
I'm now looking at the heater matrix and want to remove the control valve for cleaning - I've located it under the bonnet and operating it by hand is quite tight, which explains why the internal heater control can't move it. I've been dealing with airlocks and am considering flushing the whole system. Do you know if I can access and remove the heater core (matrix) on this Rover or at least remove the control valve - it's in a very awkward position. I doubt WD40 will loosen the valve operation - I'd rather dismantle it and clean it thoroughly.
Any advice? Your Fiesta is much easier to work on as I've noticed.
my ikon 1.3 rocam engine temperature on high even i swiched off engine about 24 hrs
all fuses relays r ok and replaced all conections got unplugged
battery conections removed about 3hrs
problem is as it is
Hi, The temperature gauge is showing high or in the red even on a cold engine? Sounds like temperature sender has earthed out causing needle to stay in the hot zone. Need to check wiring to sender unit or remove it then carry out resistance check while sender is placed in hot water to see if resistance changes. Important to note that the temperature gauge sender is not related to the ECM coolant temperature sensor.
Just been looking on several Ford forums and there was a mention of faulty coolant temperature sensor causing fan to run all the time. These need diagnostic equipment to check them as the ECM controls cooling fan operation via coolant temperature sensor. According to Ford manual, there is a separate gauge sender. Other causes of fan running all the time is trapped air, leaking coolant expansion bottle cap, failing thermostat. The combined thermostat, housing and coolant sensor unit are well known for causing problems as the plastic can distort or break up internally. Found this. Might be useful. workshop-manuals.com/ford/ikon_1999_01.2000/mechanical_repairs/3_powertrain/303_engine/303-03_engine_cooling/description_and_operation/diagnosis_and_testing/engine_cooling/
my ikon 1.3 rocam engine temperature on high even i swiched off engine about 24 hrs
all fuses relays r ok and replaced all conections got unplugged
battery conections removed about 3hrs
problem is as it is