First shot at dripping lead shot

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  • Опубликовано: 25 фев 2014
  • Guess we did all the wrong things once the lead entered the liquid interface. Do we need oil, coolant, soap? What??? And yeah I know ... I have a sound bit OFF, gotta take a closer look at my GoPro interface.

Комментарии • 64

  • @Ririe1969
    @Ririe1969 4 года назад +3

    I'm sure you have it figured out by now. Nice looking machine. A few things that might help, clean lead ingots, won't plug up the holes as bad. Drip deflector needs to be baby butt smooth and lubricated. I use soap stone (used for marking metal while welding) as a lubricant for the deflector. Coolant should be very close to the bottom of the drip deflector. some people use a pump to circulate the fluid to keep it cool and full to the rim of your container. your drip container placed inside a bigger container so overflow will run out and be caught by larger container. (which also keeps the deflector to coolant distance the same throughout entire batch). I use a tall ammo can inside a shorter wider one. The tall can lets the lead cool before it hits the bottom so it doesn't clump together. (Then I use them to store the components in while not in use). I believe they are 30mm and 60mm. water cools it down too fast causes pitting and bubbles on each lead ball. a few choices of coolant include undiluted RV antifreeze, automatic transmission fluid, or my favorite liquid laundry softener undiluted of course. It is water soluble, cleans up easy, and smells good. I buy it at the dollar store. I have had real good luck using these methods.

  • @karmakittenz69
    @karmakittenz69 4 года назад +6

    I'm sure you got it figured out by now. Higher heat and more lead to make pool deeper. Leave the oxide alone. Once it films over the lead underneath stays clean and flows smooth.

  • @graywolf2078
    @graywolf2078 7 лет назад +3

    Gantz4 was pretty much right on. 1. angle of drip is too steep 2. cover the drip pan with soapstone. 3. Much too high of a drop. 4. Drop should be about 1/2". 5. Use liquid soap to drop the hot shot into. 6. We used copper tubing coiled in the soap hooked to cold water. It helps remove the heat from the soap.

  • @johngiff2978
    @johngiff2978 8 лет назад +2

    great work guys, you're going to get there don't give up!

  • @arclight45
    @arclight45 4 года назад +1

    Great job! Maybe try using fabric softener as your cooling medium so it doesn't slash. But I love the design of the shot maker. You could patent it and sell those. Amazing!

  • @capatainnemo
    @capatainnemo 5 лет назад +1

    ive seen high temp copper grease used on the ramp/deflector....also fabric conditioner used as a coolant as it doesnt splash

  • @Mascotal
    @Mascotal 8 лет назад +1

    You can make the lead run faster if you heat the drippers with a propane torch.

  • @graywolf2078
    @graywolf2078 7 лет назад

    You need a tube for overflow of the soap as the lead fills the bucket. I used a round colander to rinse the lead and to sort the shot. Perfect shot will easily pass through the colander (spaghetti strainer) but any little imperfection will not pass through. We bought wheel weights by the 55 gal barrel and used two weed burners for heat. Melting pot held about 400 to 500 pounds a time. A 55 gal barrel will give you two 5 gal buckets of the steel part of the wheel weights and the occasional valve stem (really stinks). A chunk of bees wax was used for fluxing. You flux and clean the lead BEFORE the lead hits the shotmaker or real problems if you plug the drip holes. Your heat source in the shot maker is NOT producing enough heat.

  • @turbinedoctor
    @turbinedoctor 9 лет назад +2

    Do you have any updates on your shot maker? It would be nice to see some of your design criteria for this project. Thanks for the video.

  • @gantz4u
    @gantz4u 9 лет назад +5

    The angle on the front plate is too steep and the drop into coolant is too high. The lead rolling across the front plate is what makes it round. The front plate should be mirror smooth and just enough angle for the shot to roll off. The drop into coolant should be immediate to not allow the shot to deform into a teardrop from gravity. The coolant tank should be deep enough for the shot to be solid before it touches the settled shot.

  • @edwardporter5905
    @edwardporter5905 4 года назад +1

    Ive been using rv coolant. Like you would use to winterize a rv pink stuff works well

  • @jonesborowoodworks5849
    @jonesborowoodworks5849 9 лет назад

    Okay, I've been looking around on how to make one of these drippers. My main issue is finding how to make the bolts. Do I need to buy them? If anyone has a link to a tutorial of some kind I would greatly appreciate it.

  • @gabrielvidigal4116
    @gabrielvidigal4116 4 года назад

    Congratulations, nice setup! Which diameter have you drilled the drippers and what's the resulting shot #?

  • @LordEzequiel
    @LordEzequiel 9 лет назад

    cool shotmaker ! Are you able to tell me if your drippers are made in brass ?

  • @matteedstrom
    @matteedstrom 9 лет назад +2

    To do it like this, you need really clean led ingots. Nice video othervise

  • @titoemir4753
    @titoemir4753 9 лет назад

    voce poderia me dar alguma explicaçao sobre como fazer esferas de chumbo

  • @The42Petes
    @The42Petes 8 лет назад +6

    you need a primary heating pot , so you can flux it and pull the dross. then into your awesome dripper.

  • @hamygray
    @hamygray 4 года назад

    Can I suggest melting lead in a separate pot and filling up your tray that way you can skim the dirt off

  • @jefersonguilcapi9581
    @jefersonguilcapi9581 4 года назад

    Hola me puedes ayudar con las medidas de los agujeros en las tuercas

  • @kimberlyspence8568
    @kimberlyspence8568 3 года назад

    if you take a small torch like a benz o matic and preheat the driping bolt heads as you melt the lead you should not have any problems, hot lead and water can be very dangerous . be safe and happy new year,,