Ahh, you have the same issue that I had which I talked about in my last comment :D Believe it or not but the starter is actually surprisingly easy to get out. I try to explain it to you but pic would be better 1. Disconnect wiring to the starter 2. Remove the plastic bellhousing 3. Remove two bolts from the support bracket and remove two bolt and nut that holds starter in place. Since you have turbo you might want to loosen or remove oil cooler hoses. 4. Now slide the starter backwards, turn the starter 90 degrees (clockwise), and “drop” it under the lower coolant hose (if my memory serves me right). Now the starter is lying between the engine and the chassis. Turn it again 90 degrees (clockwise) and you should be able slide it to front of the engine bay and off it comes.
I think I actually changed the starter on my 1989 saab 900 turbo 16.... At least I have a memory of fiddling with a starter down there to get it into the right angle to take it out. But the manifold is coming of on mine to fix wiring and more, so I will wait... But Thanks!
I love the k-jet series and look forward to every episode, please keep them coming. My Volvo's k-jet is not operating at the moment, so every detail you share on this journey is helping me with my project. Maybe if you extend the wires on your warm up injector switch, you can close the circuit while cranking the engine. This would deliver vaporized fuel exactly like the factory setup. Although, it looks like your solution is working well enough and so moving onto the next repair makes sense too. You're skills have to overcome the effects of time and neglect, but also the errors of others who worked on the car before you took your turn. Press on regardless. Cheers from the USA!
Hey SG, really appreciate your vids and learn. Thank you. Loved the 900 series back in the day. Currently driving 83 244 M46 Volvo B23F motor . 340K miles and keep it running like new. Swede cars are indestructible and 10+ engineered including sub zero temps given those Countries. 83 is the first year Jetronic LH 2.0, previous years 240's were KJet though turbo B21's continued KJet till 85?. With these 40 year old cars I learned 2 valuable lessons vs. the parts cannon when not running right. Proper fuel pressure check and correct voltage to all components is critical. All 40 points of failure have to be spot on. If I had bought your car the first thing I would do is replace fuel pumps (I have main and in-tank) and filter with Bosch original. Next new FP relays or any relay related, next check voltage to fuel pumps, next new fuses and clean all contacts every where in the system, next clean all frame grounds and check resistance of all critical wires. Voltage check across all fuses at the box. Mine is one owner family Southern California car with a very forgiving environment yet aging wires and corrosion still apply. Recently chased a low voltage 10.7 vs. 12.5 ghost to main FP, was an old wire buried in under the dash, not fun but was a process
@@SeasideGarage Volvo wires crumble up to 1988 when they changed wire insulation compound. Got tired chasing phantom problems. I replaced my engine harness. Wonder if Saab used same supplier?
Hi, thanks a lot for the videos and this excellent Channel. I have the same problem of cold start on my 900 i8 without turbo. I'm not sure to underdtand how do you check the wiring of thé cold start injector ? You put thé tester in thé green câble and Switch ignition on but were did you put thé other câble of thé tester ? Thanks a lot
Thanks! Other cable went on to the positive terminal to check for ground in the green wire.. You could start with taking the connector off and put the cables from the multimeter into the green and brown wire.. and then crank the engine (cold engine) and you should see around 12v at the connecter while cranking.
@@SeasideGarage when i check the groupe wire he IS ok with around 12v. When i check the other one while cranking there's not 12 v but just a small modification around 6. Brown wire IS correctly connected to the starter motor. How Can i bé Shure that's not the température dépendent fuel regulator ? Thanks a lot
@@clementjjeandel2002 I have the exact same problem. 900i, 1985. Thinking of pulling cables to the dash and add a switch to give +12V to the cold start valve when needed. Still don't know where the actual problem is.
I guess it was more fun for them to engineer up a fuel squirter than it was to just restrict the incoming air like a carburettor to enrichen the fuel/air mix, but it is a Saab, they always over-engineered things, to the point they couldn't afford to keep making cars any more... :\
Can you draw fault codes from this system? Mine i can but it is a bit of work, the codes "blink" like morse code from the CE light. havent tried it yet but i guess i will have to to easier diagnose my faults(missfires) First change all stuff that is bad/old.
I was actually thinking just that... But I was afraid that I might forget that I did that or just "live with it" and it would be a problem when hot starting the engine... it would flood I think
Removing and replacing the starter motor on my 99 Turbo was possibly the most difficult job I have ever done on a car. On the 99 the starter motor is on the other side of the engine, behind the exhaust manifold. I had to use a mirror and my brain struggled to cope with everything reversed. The engine bay of the 99 Turbo is also much more cramped than the 900.
Hej Jeg er selv stor SAAB fan og har to😁 jeg ville lige høre om du havde fundet mere dokumentation og historik på den SAAB 900 commander 8v For så kunne jeg godet være meget interesseret i om høre mere om den Hilsen Mikael Tjørnelund
@@SeasideGarage Hej 😁 Det lyder spænde syndes det er en pæn og andeledens model en de fleste Har selv en SAAB 900 2 døre sedan med en 8v Vis du en dag har tid og lyst kunne jeg godt tænke mig farve kode og mere info i detaljerne den røde linge klistermærke osv vis har tid og lyst en dag Hilsen Mikael
Thats a very common fault on saabs cables on the wrongs sensors. I worked in a saab dealer in the 80s
Ahh, you have the same issue that I had which I talked about in my last comment :D
Believe it or not but the starter is actually surprisingly easy to get out. I try to explain it to you but pic would be better
1. Disconnect wiring to the starter
2. Remove the plastic bellhousing
3. Remove two bolts from the support bracket and remove two bolt and nut that holds starter in place. Since you have turbo you might want to loosen or remove oil cooler hoses.
4. Now slide the starter backwards, turn the starter 90 degrees (clockwise), and “drop” it under the lower coolant hose (if my memory serves me right). Now the starter is lying between the engine and the chassis. Turn it again 90 degrees (clockwise) and you should be able slide it to front of the engine bay and off it comes.
I think I actually changed the starter on my 1989 saab 900 turbo 16.... At least I have a memory of fiddling with a starter down there to get it into the right angle to take it out.
But the manifold is coming of on mine to fix wiring and more, so I will wait...
But Thanks!
Interesting to watch as I need to do similar on my 928 soon
That work around was Brilliant. Understanding why something is not happening is a true skill I think.
It makes it harder to accept that something is not working right when you at least know why... :)
You have to understand any system if you need to repair it .
Brilliantly sorted 👍
Excellent diagnostic and not a computer in sight 👍
7000 subs! good for you, Sebbo! one of my favorite channels.
Thanks!
I love the k-jet series and look forward to every episode, please keep them coming. My Volvo's k-jet is not operating at the moment, so every detail you share on this journey is helping me with my project. Maybe if you extend the wires on your warm up injector switch, you can close the circuit while cranking the engine. This would deliver vaporized fuel exactly like the factory setup. Although, it looks like your solution is working well enough and so moving onto the next repair makes sense too.
You're skills have to overcome the effects of time and neglect, but also the errors of others who worked on the car before you took your turn. Press on regardless. Cheers from the USA!
I love this car. I’m so glad you’re saving it. That engine sounds sooo sweet 👍👍👍
Saab forever!!
Clever stuff.
Thanks!
Hey SG, really appreciate your vids and learn. Thank you. Loved the 900 series back in the day. Currently driving 83 244 M46 Volvo B23F motor . 340K miles and keep it running like new. Swede cars are indestructible and 10+ engineered including sub zero temps given those Countries. 83 is the first year Jetronic LH 2.0, previous years 240's were KJet though turbo B21's continued KJet till 85?. With these 40 year old cars I learned 2 valuable lessons vs. the parts cannon when not running right. Proper fuel pressure check and correct voltage to all components is critical. All 40 points of failure have to be spot on. If I had bought your car the first thing I would do is replace fuel pumps (I have main and in-tank) and filter with Bosch original. Next new FP relays or any relay related, next check voltage to fuel pumps, next new fuses and clean all contacts every where in the system, next clean all frame grounds and check resistance of all critical wires. Voltage check across all fuses at the box. Mine is one owner family Southern California car with a very forgiving environment yet aging wires and corrosion still apply. Recently chased a low voltage 10.7 vs. 12.5 ghost to main FP, was an old wire buried in under the dash, not fun but was a process
Thanks for your comment!
Yea this one really needs a overhaul of the wiring... some of them just breaks when touched!
@@SeasideGarage Volvo wires crumble up to 1988 when they changed wire insulation compound. Got tired chasing phantom problems. I replaced my engine harness. Wonder if Saab used same supplier?
@@upcycler could very well be!
Nice work. Anything requires time to unravel the subtleties. 🍻
The engine looks like it has been in the North Atlantic since World War II Greetings Edward
Saab were very good at doing things their own way. Makes life interesting.
Great video on this system! 👍
You can just position the button in the cab, as a "choke-button" 😉🤣
and overboost button!
what happened to this Commander?
Its coming back very soon!
@@SeasideGarage Woohoo! I was worried it was gone. Can't wait and thank you for all that you do!
Danish English is so cute
Hi, thanks a lot for the videos and this excellent Channel.
I have the same problem of cold start on my 900 i8 without turbo.
I'm not sure to underdtand how do you check the wiring of thé cold start injector ? You put thé tester in thé green câble and Switch ignition on but were did you put thé other câble of thé tester ?
Thanks a lot
Thanks!
Other cable went on to the positive terminal to check for ground in the green wire..
You could start with taking the connector off and put the cables from the multimeter into the green and brown wire.. and then crank the engine (cold engine) and you should see around 12v at the connecter while cranking.
@@SeasideGarage when i check the groupe wire he IS ok with around 12v.
When i check the other one while cranking there's not 12 v but just a small modification around 6.
Brown wire IS correctly connected to the starter motor.
How Can i bé Shure that's not the température dépendent fuel regulator ?
Thanks a lot
@@clementjjeandel2002 I have the exact same problem. 900i, 1985.
Thinking of pulling cables to the dash and add a switch to give +12V to the cold start valve when needed.
Still don't know where the actual problem is.
there shoud be a 2 pin kontakt at the head who handling the termotime for the cold start injector--below, hehind the termostat
It does not seem to have that.... but a thing with 2 vacuum outlets on it in that position...
I guess it was more fun for them to engineer up a fuel squirter than it was to just restrict the incoming air like a carburettor to enrichen the fuel/air mix, but it is a Saab, they always over-engineered things, to the point they couldn't afford to keep making cars any more... :\
This was not saab, but the germans... the Kjet is found in many different cars actually :)
Can you draw fault codes from this system? Mine i can but it is a bit of work, the codes "blink" like morse code from the CE light. havent tried it yet but i guess i will have to to easier diagnose my faults(missfires) First change all stuff that is bad/old.
not sure... I might? :)
Thanks, that was interesting. I like the car.
Perhaps just put the yellow button on the dashboard for now and label it 'ejection seat'.
Yea... also it could make it possible to wind up the boost! and then just hit the button when the pinging starts! ;)
Why not connect it to the starter signal wire ( power to starter to make it ingage)
I was actually thinking just that...
But I was afraid that I might forget that I did that or just "live with it" and it would be a problem when hot starting the engine... it would flood I think
good diagnosis is the most of the job. great
and brakes are overrated. you dont need them anyway
Removing and replacing the starter motor on my 99 Turbo was possibly the most difficult job I have ever done on a car. On the 99 the starter motor is on the other side of the engine, behind the exhaust manifold. I had to use a mirror and my brain struggled to cope with everything reversed. The engine bay of the 99 Turbo is also much more cramped than the 900.
Hej
Jeg er selv stor SAAB fan og har to😁 jeg ville lige høre om du havde fundet mere dokumentation og historik på den SAAB 900 commander 8v
For så kunne jeg godet være meget interesseret i om høre mere om den
Hilsen Mikael Tjørnelund
Jeg har fundet brochure på den, det viser sig "desværre" at det er en almindelig 8v med særlig kabine, farve og fælge.. ikke mere power end normalt.
@@SeasideGarage
Hej 😁
Det lyder spænde syndes det er en pæn og andeledens model en de fleste
Har selv en SAAB 900 2 døre sedan med en 8v
Vis du en dag har tid og lyst kunne jeg godt tænke mig farve kode og mere info i detaljerne den røde linge klistermærke osv vis har tid og lyst en dag
Hilsen Mikael