Managed to get this working with my xeno3. It involved wiring it up to the core for power and then adding a momentary switch under the clamp card to activate the actual saber.
Please make moreninstall vids! With new tech, labels as part 1 part 2 etc until completion! You are the best and the most informative for newbs who want to do their first build!
Wow, that's quite a few mods for a standard kit, but well presented Rob as usual. I have a set of aluminium tweezers specifically for working with small magnets. These can be obtained from electronics suppliers.
Can you do one for the pcb upgrade ? or is it exactly the same? And can I connect the battery ports to the main battery or do I still need the box batteries too? I have a 7.4v li.ion battery pack attatched to a Recharge port
J.B Williams To answer your question this should help ruclips.net/video/EW9CWpb_Nc0/видео.html start at 4:01 and the guy tells you how to do it, For those of us how don’t really understand how it works could you please post an instruction guide on how to do it for chips like nano biscotte v4 that would be great and I would really appreciate it
Would be nice if these and crystal chamber had a voltage regulator and solder pads for wiring inline to your main saber power. I cam adapt it myself, but some people might not know how.
Trust me, learning how to do this yourself is so much more satisfying and will open the door to so many saber building abilities you can develop after that... yeah it's a pain to learn but as they say "beauty is pain" and being able to do it yourself is gonna lead to some fkn BEAUTY
@@nikblask6300 That's exactly what I tell my friends who forego the building ritual XD I'm waiting on TCSS to restock their electronics so i can complete my build once and for all!
It's also cheaper to put the electronics in the saber yourself as a empty hilt could cost anywhere from $150 to $500, so you can save anywhere from $600 at the most to $200 at the least, my Vader hilt cost me $225 dollars plus an extra $100 in electronics, yes I have to put it together myself, but it is much cheaper than spending $600 to $700 on a completed lightsaber, also once you figure out how to assemble everything together for the first time it is much easier to assemble your 2nd and 3rd hilt and so on and it's also more cost effective than buying a prebuilt one. Not to mention once you get good enough at assembling the electronics you can start a small business for assembling empty hilt lightsabers for customers.
Was anybody able to wire this up to activate saber, I have a xeno3 core and would love to be able to control it with this box. There's been no updates on this or the website just a message that says "more to come"
I glued my black buttons on and now it doesn't work anymore. Also can this switch really be used for anything? This design kind of sucks. The saber is nice, but I have no idea how the hell i'm going to fit a board, battery, much less an LED with a heat sink AND a blade in. I wish there were more tutorials, at least there is this one, so thanks!
Managed to get this working with my xeno3. It involved wiring it up to the core for power and then adding a momentary switch under the clamp card to activate the actual saber.
Got mine today and had it working within half hour. Its easy, and this video is bang on the money.
Finally finished my ROTJ Luke Lightsaber
Did you install it on a cfx board?
Please make moreninstall vids! With new tech, labels as part 1 part 2 etc until completion! You are the best and the most informative for newbs who want to do their first build!
Is there a way to power this from the hilt's battery instead?
I'm thinking about holding off on assembling mine, to see what kind of switch options people come up with for full electronic installs.
I really really appreciate the detail in this video. Thanks!
Thank You!! I was killing myself yesterday trying to get the positive connection to actually make a connection, your hack worked! Thanks!
i want to install this on a Luke V2 STUNT, you think it's possible? and keep the graflex clamp...
Wow, that's quite a few mods for a standard kit, but well presented Rob as usual. I have a set of aluminium tweezers specifically for working with small magnets. These can be obtained from electronics suppliers.
Rob, how would you wire this so that it also serves as an activation switch? Maybe you mentioned it in the video but if so I missed it haha
Anyone know how to use this as your main switch for a Luke replica lightsaber?
instead of taping you could just paint the inside of the casing and insulate it that way as well... much safer than some tape.
What size of screws do I need to attach the control box to the hilt? I need to order a set of screws to attach control box. Ty for the help.
Can you do one for the pcb upgrade ? or is it exactly the same?
And can I connect the battery ports to the main battery or do I still need the box batteries too?
I have a 7.4v li.ion battery pack attatched to a Recharge port
CSS, is there a video on wiring the new upgrade card?
Mine seems to be slightly different. Was the board updated recently? Nvm sleepy so I forgot about that change.
Can you do a video on how to wire this with a switch to activate the lightsaber led light for the blade?
J.B Williams
To answer your question this should help ruclips.net/video/EW9CWpb_Nc0/видео.html start at 4:01 and the guy tells you how to do it, For those of us how don’t really understand how it works could you please post an instruction guide on how to do it for chips like nano biscotte v4 that would be great and I would really appreciate it
Would be nice if these and crystal chamber had a voltage regulator and solder pads for wiring inline to your main saber power. I cam adapt it myself, but some people might not know how.
Do you know how to wire it up for a cfx??
I didn't have to dremel or sand anything down. I just put electrical tape on the back and front. Works fine.
I wish they would just send these pre made.
Trust me, learning how to do this yourself is so much more satisfying and will open the door to so many saber building abilities you can develop after that... yeah it's a pain to learn but as they say "beauty is pain" and being able to do it yourself is gonna lead to some fkn BEAUTY
@@BanesBasement and besides, building your lightsaber is the final step of becoming a Jedi
@@nikblask6300 That's exactly what I tell my friends who forego the building ritual XD I'm waiting on TCSS to restock their electronics so i can complete my build once and for all!
Plus you can customize more this way
It's also cheaper to put the electronics in the saber yourself as a empty hilt could cost anywhere from $150 to $500, so you can save anywhere from $600 at the most to $200 at the least, my Vader hilt cost me $225 dollars plus an extra $100 in electronics, yes I have to put it together myself, but it is much cheaper than spending $600 to $700 on a completed lightsaber, also once you figure out how to assemble everything together for the first time it is much easier to assemble your 2nd and 3rd hilt and so on and it's also more cost effective than buying a prebuilt one. Not to mention once you get good enough at assembling the electronics you can start a small business for assembling empty hilt lightsabers for customers.
How might one set up the electronics for the control box of a Balance v4, would it be similar to this or use any of the same steps/parts?
What type battery size does need for control box mine didn’t came with the saber kit and also the crystal chamber too
What kind of batteries do I need 🔋 for the box kit??? I bought the kit it didn’t come with the batteries provided with the kit
Can this be purchased separately, or just the electronics?
Does this mean the LS6 pre-orders a while ago are shipping soon?
Haha I literally just got an email that it shipped after this video finished
thanks rob, appreciate ya
Is there a way to wire this up on a full install?
Was anybody able to wire this up to activate saber, I have a xeno3 core and would love to be able to control it with this box. There's been no updates on this or the website just a message that says "more to come"
Hi what's the distance of the mounting holes?
The distance is 1.63" center to center for the mounting holes.
What if I want to wire it too proffie
What size screws to attach the control box to the hilt?
Nm I think the magnets are supposed to hold it in place but aren't strong enough. This is confusing design.
I glued my black buttons on and now it doesn't work anymore. Also can this switch really be used for anything? This design kind of sucks. The saber is nice, but I have no idea how the hell i'm going to fit a board, battery, much less an LED with a heat sink AND a blade in. I wish there were more tutorials, at least there is this one, so thanks!
Update, I just simply replaced the tactile switches and now it works again. I got a bunch on amazon. They are 6x6 mm
So I have the same question....can this be wired as a momentary or latching switch or is it just for looks?
im assuming this cannot be wired to the momentary switch pads on a soundboard? to control the saber
Yes it can.. see here. www.thecustomsabershop.com/Box-style-28-kit-P1377.aspx
I can not for the life of me get mine to work. I haven’t gotten a flash, a spark, smoke, no nothing
What model of battery is this?
357
This design feels kinda sloopy
"what a piece of junk...!" She doesn't look like much kid and (sadly) she doesn't have it where it counts...
that design will cause problems...
I Want to use one of these for my activation switch is that possible ?
Yes it can. The upgraded PCB makes it much easier. www.thecustomsabershop.com/Box-style-28-PCB-Upgrade-P1925.aspx