A much better throttle design. I really like your thoughtfulness as you work through each challenge. It’s been a fantastic journey that you’ve taken us all on. I am very excited to see your project nearing completion. After a 17 month wait, I just took delivery of my own STi kit. Can’t wait to get started on it. I will be referencing your builder tips as I begin. So thank you for helping us all out!
Much better. You may want to consider using heim type joints. Harley had the same idea you did and installed those ball joints on touring bike shift levers for years. Unfortunately after many failures, most retrofit those joints with the more reliable heim type. You can look it up on you tube if interested. Keep it up, so enjoyable to see your progress.
I had dual akrapovic carbon fiber mufflers on my zx10. It sounded great and was much quieter than a lot of other bikes. You're going to be dealing with higher frequency noise than a traditional aircraft engine or car engine so you'll appreciate the sound damping you get from a muffler with packing instead of just baffles. The Akrapovic mufflers had a metal wool that lasted really long compared to fiberglass packing.
Love the look at the wing slots at the end! Have always wanted to build a set of automatically retracting slots... High lift at low speeds, low drag at high speeds.
Bryan I'd put the castle nut on the bottom of the "Middle' of your assembly so that IF the cotter pin were to make its way out and the castle nut were to back off, your bolt won't drop out the bottom and cause a failure.
Good, thought, accept that would leave the sharp cotter pin facing down under the panel area where I'll be reaching in to activate the parking brake, rudder pedal adjustment and accessing the ECU USB port.
Another idea is Safety Wire it. I thought this same thing while watching you work. I would definitely safety wire it. You can curl the wire so it won't snag, scratch, or puncture anything. Now I'm sitting on the edge of my seat for first run.
I would try FMF for a muffler. They have a titanium exhaust option, who knows, maybe they would work with you to have somthing new to the market. They have in the past for dirtbikes.
That looks much better, but I would add another flat bar on the top of the center pivot point in order to trap the arm from above and below. That eliminates the bending forces on the pivot bolt.
Have a look at mufflers for generators, Onan is a good place to start, rugged and must be very quit and they come is lots of sizes and different shapes. You have eliminated the most common cause of throttle cable fatigue (flexing the wire cable).
Nice long headers! Stick a stock Subaru muffler & resonator on it to have a nice quiet engine! Because stock mufflers are quite! Love the wing slats! Round off the corners on that throttle contraption so it doesn’t get stuck on hanging wires...
I have been wondering if it would be worth it to go to redesign the entire inlet manifold and go to a single throttle body similar to the IO360. Maybe even move to the Lycoming throttle body. FYI, I don't have an apex. Just thinking.
Edge Performance tried a single throttle body on the APEX and it didn’t work, the engine ran terrible. Not a 100% sure why but it has to do with back pressure and the high Rpm causing uneven distribution of air.
@@BowenAero That's interesting. The K-series Hondas run at a high rpm and seem to be alright. I wonder if it has to do with intake geometry. Needs more thought, It would simplify things greatly...
Hey man. Watching from over here in Citrus hieghts/Roseville ca area. Loving the build! I have a Yamaha FZ1 in the garage. (1000cc) A very close cousin to your Apex. Quick question, do you guys have any kind of idea on what the TBO would be on the Apex? I know these engines can handle some serious abuse. My FZ has over 40,000 miles and still runs and sounds perfect.
@@BowenAero That is true, and traditionally the mechanical cable would be the backup I suppose. I wonder how light you could get a "drive by wire" throttle setup... My thought was something very simple like a single potentiometer controlling a servo to actuate the throttle, I am just unsure how big a server would be needed to actuate the throttle. But as you say, more complication and weight than is really nessicary
I don’t think you can disable the springs on the throttle bodies unless you have two throttle cables, one to pull open and one to pull closed. Cables don’t push that well, so that’s why the springs work nice.
That is a great observation. Yes you would be pushing the cable over the crescent shaped lever and it would most likely cause the cable to come out of its catch. Hadn’t thought of that.
That firewall pass thru is not aluminum is it? never use anything but steel for that. That aluminum will melt away in a matter of seconds. Safety first.
It is supper nice that you show version 1 and when you don't like it, what you do to fix it. Thanks for the effort of putting your content out!
A much better throttle design. I really like your thoughtfulness as you work through each challenge. It’s been a fantastic journey that you’ve taken us all on. I am very excited to see your project nearing completion. After a 17 month wait, I just took delivery of my own STi kit. Can’t wait to get started on it. I will be referencing your builder tips as I begin. So thank you for helping us all out!
That’s awesome, congratulations
I think a lot of us are happy with the new throttle arrangement . You are doing a good job love your videos
Throttle setup is much improved! Nice work!
throttle looks soooo much nicer, good job!!! think you will be much better with your new set up!!! Maybe M. Patey would have a source on mufflers?
Glad to see your advertising BA on these edits!!!
I'm glad you made some changes for the better. You have helped solve an issue for every other builder who goes the route you have gone. Thanks
Much better. You may want to consider using heim type joints. Harley had the same idea you did and installed those ball joints on touring bike shift levers for years. Unfortunately after many failures, most retrofit those joints with the more reliable heim type. You can look it up on you tube if interested. Keep it up, so enjoyable to see your progress.
I had dual akrapovic carbon fiber mufflers on my zx10. It sounded great and was much quieter than a lot of other bikes.
You're going to be dealing with higher frequency noise than a traditional aircraft engine or car engine so you'll appreciate the sound damping you get from a muffler with packing instead of just baffles. The Akrapovic mufflers had a metal wool that lasted really long compared to fiberglass packing.
Like the new set up. Think I will copy it. Thanks Brian
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Great work Brian , love watch you problem solve things you aren't happy with.
Cheers
Nice elegant throttle cable fix, keep a close inspection schedule on the ball pivots.
Love the look at the wing slots at the end! Have always wanted to build a set of automatically retracting slots... High lift at low speeds, low drag at high speeds.
Things are really shaping up. Very clean design behind the panel.
Nice Teaser at the end on those Slats!
Much much better Bryan.
Glad to see the new version. Can’t wait to see you airborne,
Looks safe and quite elegant now, Bryan. Shades of Willie Messerschmitt's leading-edge slats at the end. Nifty teaser!
Bryan I'd put the castle nut on the bottom of the "Middle' of your assembly so that IF the cotter pin were to make its way out and the castle nut were to back off, your bolt won't drop out the bottom and cause a failure.
Good, thought, accept that would leave the sharp cotter pin facing down under the panel area where I'll be reaching in to activate the parking brake, rudder pedal adjustment and accessing the ECU USB port.
Another idea is Safety Wire it. I thought this same thing while watching you work. I would definitely safety wire it. You can curl the wire so it won't snag, scratch, or puncture anything.
Now I'm sitting on the edge of my seat for first run.
Happy happy. You may have already checked but steve Henry and Highlander on his Yamaha his throttle
I would try FMF for a muffler. They have a titanium exhaust option, who knows, maybe they would work with you to have somthing new to the market. They have in the past for dirtbikes.
That looks much better, but I would add another flat bar on the top of the center pivot point in order to trap the arm from above and below. That eliminates the bending forces on the pivot bolt.
Mike has two whole wings to fab so I think you are in the lead. Don't let up. He should be dropping a new vid any day now.
Did I miss an episode? Slats? Those look like carbon concepts, really interested in those for my Avid Magnum.
Have a look at mufflers for generators, Onan is a good place to start, rugged and must be very quit and they come is lots of sizes and different shapes. You have eliminated the most common cause of throttle cable fatigue (flexing the wire cable).
Nice long headers!
Stick a stock Subaru muffler & resonator on it to have a nice quiet engine! Because stock mufflers are quite!
Love the wing slats!
Round off the corners on that throttle contraption so it doesn’t get stuck on hanging wires...
Late model R1 stock titanium muffler, probably find them on eBay fairly cheap.
Have you look at exhaust options from SuperTrapp
Muuch nicer setup. Good job
I have been wondering if it would be worth it to go to redesign the entire inlet manifold and go to a single throttle body similar to the IO360. Maybe even move to the Lycoming throttle body. FYI, I don't have an apex. Just thinking.
Edge Performance tried a single throttle body on the APEX and it didn’t work, the engine ran terrible. Not a 100% sure why but it has to do with back pressure and the high Rpm causing uneven distribution of air.
@@BowenAero That's interesting. The K-series Hondas run at a high rpm and seem to be alright. I wonder if it has to do with intake geometry.
Needs more thought, It would simplify things greatly...
Stock R1 muffler maybe? I think its a similar engine to the R1. Nice work man, cannot wait to hear it run.
Much more elegant.
Looks good. My CAD may have been a bit lighter, but yours is equally secure. Did you do a bearing on the middle pivot screw?
Hey man. Watching from over here in Citrus hieghts/Roseville ca area. Loving the build! I have a Yamaha FZ1 in the garage. (1000cc) A very close cousin to your Apex. Quick question, do you guys have any kind of idea on what the TBO would be on the Apex? I know these engines can handle some serious abuse. My FZ has over 40,000 miles and still runs and sounds perfect.
Jury is still out, need more engine hours on them to find out, but we have seen close to 1000 hours with only a valve adjustment needed.
Would it be possible to set up some sort of electric throttle backup? like some sort of servo to actuate the throttle in the case of cable failure?
I suppose you could, it would add weight and complexity. Not something you traditionally see on airplanes, but its possible.
@@BowenAero That is true, and traditionally the mechanical cable would be the backup I suppose. I wonder how light you could get a "drive by wire" throttle setup...
My thought was something very simple like a single potentiometer controlling a servo to actuate the throttle, I am just unsure how big a server would be needed to actuate the throttle.
But as you say, more complication and weight than is really nessicary
Is there a pivot point bearing of any kind? Or just a bolt?
Pivot ball
Much better setup!
How about Steve Henry. he runs yamaha on highlanders dosent he?Wonder what he uses for mufflers .
.
He runs the turbo so it is quieter and doesn’t need much for a muffler.
So it's a dual-cable pull open/pull close linkage?
Push on and pull off
I don’t think you can disable the springs on the throttle bodies unless you have two throttle cables, one to pull open and one to pull closed. Cables don’t push that well, so that’s why the springs work nice.
That is a great observation. Yes you would be pushing the cable over the crescent shaped lever and it would most likely cause the cable to come out of its catch. Hadn’t thought of that.
Bryan, I am getting the feeling your audio is not coming from your Rode mic, as you can hear movement on the camera when you’re holding it.
Me too
A stock Hayabusa muffler would be very quiet! But they are heavy!
I like it
On the muffler, can you use standard pipe to extend and use the muffler in a more convenient location?
You need a good turbo muffler
That is what I have been narrowing my focus on. Any suggestions?
That firewall pass thru is not aluminum is it? never use anything but steel for that. That aluminum will melt away in a matter of seconds. Safety first.
HAHAHAHAHA, research while i am at work.. oh man, thats usually what i do as well..