I loooooove the episodes! A bit of a tease though, feels like you guys are drawing these out a bit now. By the way, I think I speak for most of us when I say that you probably can't nerd out too hard on the processes for any of the work. We aren't tuning into a saturday morning fishing show, we are here to see how boats go from ho-hum to hot-damn and all of the gritty work that it takes to make that happen.
so thats why they keep the boat so long when you get it serviced, 1st week the pump, 2nd week the plugs, 3rd week oil change. what do they do the the last 4 weeks?
What a great job they do, simply fantastic. Does anyone have an idea how much it will be to rewire a 17 feet skiff boat center console,just a number for me to have an idea. I'm located in the South West of Florida,thanks.
Add it up. Lights, wire, pumps, switches/breakers, battery switches, etc. Make a list and while you are at it you will find some neat pieces that you will just have to have.
$36,000 for basically a brand new top of the line boat is really not bad when you consider a new one is probably $50,000, and lacks the old school classic beauty with the teak rails.
MIKE - with regard to the issues of Coosa versus wood, I will take your world class credentials any day over people with virtually no experience other than a computer, Facebook and an opinion.
@@growlith6969 true, however, the transom area is most susceptible to water damage. I would still put coosa instead of wood any day. Just seems like a better option to me.
The wood in this transom was rock solid and dry after 50 years - marine ply, when properly sealed, will last forever and is extremely strong and can be fastened to quite easily. Lots of advantages to using marine ply!
@@deepseevisuals right brother, when properly sealed! Through hulls, screws, transducers and any other penetration screw or fastener can potentially lead to water intrusion and rot that spreads like cancer. I know wood is the old method that can last a long time if no water gets in, but if and when it does its a pain in the butt. Thats why everyone has moved to synthetics like coosa, you avoid any potential failure in the future. To each his own but i dont want any wood in my boat what so ever.
Contrary to popular belief, Coosa is not the Holy grail of transom material. Wood is far stiffer and more dense. I have tested all types of synthetic core materials and nothing approaches the strength of wood. Here is a simple test for anyone to try. Get some samples of various cores and put them in a vise .Tighten the vise using only one finger. Every material will crush except the wood which will only show a transfer mark. I have repaired many composite transoms, including Coosa, because bolts were over tightened and the glass cracked around the washers. Never seen that with wood. Also, if screws or thru hulls are not properly sealed, water will get into the Coosa as well. True, it won't rot, but water will eventually delaminate the glass from the Coosa leaving you with a stack of materials that have no strength. In northern states that can happen the first winter when the water freezes and expands and separates the glass from the core. Bottom line is do the job properly, don't cheap out on sealants every time you penetrate the glass and it will last. As far as weight, when you add up the extra layers of glass you need to apply to make synthetic core material as strong as wood you have the same end weight. Also, ponder this. Every major custom sportfishing boat builder uses wood and glass composite. These are multi million dollar boats and can use any material available. They last years and years just like this Bertram. When boats that are using composite are around in 50 years and in good enough condition to be refurbished then I will be a believer. ( I will also be 118 years old )
![Florida Sportsman Project Dreamboat [2021] Episode 3 - 26 Goldline Restoration & Custom Hydra-Stepp](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mY-j_zXgck8/mqdefault.jpg)
![Florida Sportsman Project Dreamboat [2021] Episode 3 - 26 Goldline Restoration & Custom Hydra-Stepp](/img/tr.png)
This show should be at least one hour long.
I love this show.
Same, the boats are beautiful
Man, I enjoyed seeing the reinforcements going into that Bertram to support the bracket, but was hoping to see so much more.
Such a sweet Whaler! I would put some kind of top on it for some shade but he may have a canvas removable top, but wow that’s a clean boat.
I loooooove the episodes! A bit of a tease though, feels like you guys are drawing these out a bit now. By the way, I think I speak for most of us when I say that you probably can't nerd out too hard on the processes for any of the work. We aren't tuning into a saturday morning fishing show, we are here to see how boats go from ho-hum to hot-damn and all of the gritty work that it takes to make that happen.
Favorite show.
Beautiful Pioneer represented by RPBW!
Best show on RUclips keep it up guys!!!
There's always a lot of great information from this show.....I really needs to be a year round episodes!!
so thats why they keep the boat so long when you get it serviced, 1st week the pump, 2nd week the plugs, 3rd week oil change. what do they do the the last 4 weeks?
Loving the Bertram project, but why not use cossa board? It’s just as strong but will never rot like that wood will.
Outstanding
PLEASE MAKE THE SHOW LONGER. PLEASE.
17:52 "a $100 service" in a marina? Lol. That said with a straight face requires some decent acting skills.😆😆😆
He says “100-hour” service ;)
Hour
Sooooooo good😊
What a great job they do, simply fantastic.
Does anyone have an idea how much it will be to rewire a 17 feet skiff boat center console,just a number for me to have an idea. I'm located in the South West of Florida,thanks.
Add it up. Lights, wire, pumps, switches/breakers, battery switches, etc. Make a list and while you are at it you will find some neat pieces that you will just have to have.
They left out the 3 hours of hammering, cussing and grinding to get the woodruff key out of the shaft.
Boston whaler is American Legend boat and you rigging with Yamaha?? Kidding me right.
$36,000 for basically a brand new top of the line boat is really not bad when you consider a new one is probably $50,000, and lacks the old school classic beauty with the teak rails.
MIKE - with regard to the issues of Coosa versus wood, I will take your world class credentials any day over people with virtually no experience other than a computer, Facebook and an opinion.
Constant double I skip panel ads don’t make me want to watch this
In this day and age your still putting wood in boats? You should be ashamed sir.
It's a Moppy, there's a metric s***-ton of wood in that boat. Trying to do that little bit of work in a synthetic would be pissing in a rain storm.
@@growlith6969 true, however, the transom area is most susceptible to water damage. I would still put coosa instead of wood any day. Just seems like a better option to me.
The wood in this transom was rock solid and dry after 50 years - marine ply, when properly sealed, will last forever and is extremely strong and can be fastened to quite easily. Lots of advantages to using marine ply!
@@deepseevisuals right brother, when properly sealed! Through hulls, screws, transducers and any other penetration screw or fastener can potentially lead to water intrusion and rot that spreads like cancer. I know wood is the old method that can last a long time if no water gets in, but if and when it does its a pain in the butt. Thats why everyone has moved to synthetics like coosa, you avoid any potential failure in the future. To each his own but i dont want any wood in my boat what so ever.
Contrary to popular belief, Coosa is not the Holy grail of transom material. Wood is far stiffer and more dense. I have tested all types of synthetic core materials and nothing approaches the strength of wood. Here is a simple test for anyone to try. Get some samples of various cores and put them in a vise .Tighten the vise using only one finger. Every material will crush except the wood which will only show a transfer mark. I have repaired many composite transoms, including Coosa, because bolts were over tightened and the glass cracked around the washers. Never seen that with wood. Also, if screws or thru hulls are not properly sealed, water will get into the Coosa as well. True, it won't rot, but water will eventually delaminate the glass from the Coosa leaving you with a stack of materials that have no strength. In northern states that can happen the first winter when the water freezes and expands and separates the glass from the core. Bottom line is do the job properly, don't cheap out on sealants every time you penetrate the glass and it will last. As far as weight, when you add up the extra layers of glass you need to apply to make synthetic core material as strong as wood you have the same end weight. Also, ponder this. Every major custom sportfishing boat builder uses wood and glass composite. These are multi million dollar boats and can use any material available. They last years and years just like this Bertram. When boats that are using composite are around in 50 years and in good enough condition to be refurbished then I will be a believer. ( I will also be 118 years old )
Ditch the host and just show us the boat and it's owner. We don't need to see your host.