Sometimes, but we have lost a lot of time this year to the most rain in recorded history for So Cal, and now we are seeing record heat! Today it will be 107 F (41.67 C). We can't work on epoxy when it is this hot. Still, when we can work, we're happy with the progress so thanks for the encouragement!
Love that you epoxied the beam to the bulkhead before tabbing! You don’t see that normally, but it will definitely increase strength and reduce creaking
@@SailingSVLynx yes very important to beef that up lots of stress there, I assume you put more than one piece of cloth for tabbing for it, the vid only indicated the one layer.
When laying up two or more fabric strips, its easier to wet them out on a sheet of cardboard or similar and then apply to survace using a flat screed instead of a brush. Roll with a metal roller to finish
Not sure why you would want the ends sealed up. If water was entering at those ends it would seem that you would have way bigger problems then water trapped inside that beam. Nice to see that beam in it home.
Thanks for your concern, but we're not worried, the beam is sealed, inside and out with layers of carbon fiber, so no water will get inside. Also... that's in the Schionning plans, and since around 400 of their boats have been built without any issue in the forebeam, we'll stick with their plans.
Your capping the ends of the beam? What about drain/weep holes incase water finds a way into the beam? So you don’t have a strange water slushing sound you can’t seem to identify later down the road/sea 😉
We're just following the plans on the forebeam. Other Schionning boats have not reported any issues that we can find. If, by some strange chance, there was an issue with sloshing in the future, we have access to that beam end from the sail/spare parts storage lockers, so we could always add weep hole, but I don't think it will be necessary.
Hi, would you not consider 2 bolts through each end of the cross beam as belt and brazes, considering the twisting motion when sailing, great vlogs really amazed by the progress, I wonder sometimes about the health and safety, when watching you on that 4x2 with 1 foot over the edge of canoe. Stay safe regards John
Well, since Schionning has had their boats being built this way for 35 years, we are just sticking with their plans. As for my safety, I managed to live through climbing 3000' feet up Glacier Point, I think I'll be OK on a 5' high hull ;)
I don't know, what do you think we need power up there for? All I can think of is if we wanted an electric furler (which we don't plan to use). We will have conduit running through the foredeck area behind the trampolines and could reach the center of the forebeam with a conduit through the catwalk if we wanted. That could be installed later, if needed.
@@pauld9530 Again, we can bring any wiring through the catwalk to the forebeam if we need it later. But, thanks for the thought, it did make me consider the ideal. :)
What instruction manual? They give you a set of plans and some instructions on various parts you build in a separate document, but there is no 'step by step' instruction document. We just have to ask a lot of questions. They do answer them though, so there is that.
Being that you will spend so much time in this cat as your home , Have you been on a schionning to see how the acoustics are? The only cat ive been on was a lagoon, I really didnt like the noise it made walking thru inside, It echoed every step and creeked , very loud and annoying. You might be able to improve the acoustics in the bridge deck if needed ? I kinda got the feeling that the lagoon deck was all glass and not foam, ?
Yes, I have walked around in a Schionning cat, back when I was considering a used boat. One of the great things about their cats is that everything is glassed together with epoxy. Sections aren't modularity made and then dropped in using putty. This means far less sqeakes since it is all one structure. This adds to their strength as well since every cupboard, locker, seat, etc. is part of one big bonded structure.
I noticed at 12:18 the beam is open. Is it. Staying that way? If you close it up, Have you thought about drain/weep holes at the very lowest spots of the beam? I know you said it’s sealed on the inside, but what if water does find a way to get in, then it sloshes around inside those forward bulkheads, not causing damage really but just that water slushing sound.
For me, it is not about moisture getting into the forebeam. It will not, unless you have a complete disaster like crashing into something very hard. (Look at the strength of the laminations etc. It is about air pressure. Think panting/oil-canning (depending on your part of the world). I would put one 0.5mm or 1mm (as small as you want) into each end of the forebeam, After all, the ends are on the inside of the hull. These two very small holes will equalise both positive and negative air pressure relieving any over or under pressure. Why? I once had a 29 foot boat with two small-ish bouyancy tanks at the stern of the boat that were exposed to late afternoon summer sun here in Australia (temperatures that can be over-and above those in sunny California). There was a very solid plastic cockpit drainage tube running though each of them. The result, the most sun exposed drainage tube was absolutely crushed. Lesson learned. Never happened again. Call me pedantic if you want.
Moisture will get inside a perfectly sealed container that has any air trapped inside. The reason is because of condensation because of temperature changes. You can see this happening when you put a sealed container into the refrigerator as it will form water inside. That is why any air bubbles left when laying up fiberglass are areas where moisture Will develop and cause the fiberglass to start to deteriorate and come apart. Because there is wood within the sealed container, it is guaranteed that there us air in it.
The only moisture that can enter a sealed area is the moisture already in the air inside. No new moister can get inside through condensation. That wouldn't be true if we left the ends open, then wet sea air can constantly bring new moisture in and more condensation. The air we seal up in there in the hot dry air of Southern California, will be extremely minimal. If this were an issue, then all of the many sealed watertight positive buoyancy compartments would have the same issue... but they won't. Thousands of cats are built with these included and don't have issues.
Loved the typewriter bit 😂
😄
Fantastic work and really coming together. You must be happy with the progress
Sometimes, but we have lost a lot of time this year to the most rain in recorded history for So Cal, and now we are seeing record heat! Today it will be 107 F (41.67 C). We can't work on epoxy when it is this hot. Still, when we can work, we're happy with the progress so thanks for the encouragement!
@@SailingSVLynx good luck with the heat - anything over 40c hurts.
Love that you epoxied the beam to the bulkhead before tabbing! You don’t see that normally, but it will definitely increase strength and reduce creaking
Yeah, we figured, why not?
@@SailingSVLynx yes very important to beef that up lots of stress there, I assume you put more than one piece of cloth for tabbing for it, the vid only indicated the one layer.
@@Nasalies1969 Two layers applied simultaneously.
and i am done bingewatching so now i have to wait a week for each episode! anyways you inspired me
Oh no! :) But thanks!
When laying up two or more fabric strips, its easier to wet them out on a sheet of cardboard or similar and then apply to survace using a flat screed instead of a brush. Roll with a metal roller to finish
Pretty much what was done.
Keep them coming.
That's the plan!
Beautiful job.
Thanks, we're trying our best.
Starting to look really good - Great job guys
Thanks 👍
Amazing work and planning well done love watching the progress. Stay safe.
We'll do our best.
You guys are very impressive. I am enjoying this build, it is a staggering amt. of work.
I try not to think about that and just get what I can get done today and worry about tomorrow... well, tomorrow.
ok, the typewriter thing was funny
Once I saw that clip, it had to be done!
Not sure why you would want the ends sealed up. If water was entering at those ends it would seem that you would have way bigger problems then water trapped inside that beam. Nice to see that beam in it home.
Thanks for your concern, but we're not worried, the beam is sealed, inside and out with layers of carbon fiber, so no water will get inside. Also... that's in the Schionning plans, and since around 400 of their boats have been built without any issue in the forebeam, we'll stick with their plans.
Its not water, but salt air we're trying to avoid.
Brilliant video as always. Thanks 👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it
Your capping the ends of the beam? What about drain/weep holes incase water finds a way into the beam? So you don’t have a strange water slushing sound you can’t seem to identify later down the road/sea 😉
We're just following the plans on the forebeam. Other Schionning boats have not reported any issues that we can find. If, by some strange chance, there was an issue with sloshing in the future, we have access to that beam end from the sail/spare parts storage lockers, so we could always add weep hole, but I don't think it will be necessary.
@@SailingSVLynx true
Another great video. I noticed a lot of the build structure is not protected against UV e.g overpainted. Don't you have a delamination concern? Thanks
We keep sections under tarps as much as possible.
Just want to make sure you guys are drinking plenty of water and Gatorade. Don’t get heat stroke!!!
We drink a lot, everytime Brian mixes epoxy! Kidding aside, we do stay hydrated.
Hi, would you not consider 2 bolts through each end of the cross beam as belt and brazes, considering the twisting motion when sailing, great vlogs really amazed by the progress, I wonder sometimes about the health and safety, when watching you on that 4x2 with 1 foot over the edge of canoe. Stay safe regards John
Well, since Schionning has had their boats being built this way for 35 years, we are just sticking with their plans. As for my safety, I managed to live through climbing 3000' feet up Glacier Point, I think I'll be OK on a 5' high hull ;)
Did I miss multiple layers of glass bonding the forbear to those bulkheads, or is there really just the one layer of glass holding that?
Both layers were wet out and applied simultaneously.
Is there some type of dowel pin alignment method for installing the chamfer panels?
Nope, it just sits onto the top of the hulls and gets tabbed into that and the bridgedeck.
Is it worth pushing through a conduit through the fore beam before you cap the ends?
I don't know, what do you think we need power up there for? All I can think of is if we wanted an electric furler (which we don't plan to use). We will have conduit running through the foredeck area behind the trampolines and could reach the center of the forebeam with a conduit through the catwalk if we wanted. That could be installed later, if needed.
@@SailingSVLynx i was just thinking in case, so its there. Maybe lighting?
@@pauld9530 Again, we can bring any wiring through the catwalk to the forebeam if we need it later. But, thanks for the thought, it did make me consider the ideal. :)
How good is the instruction manual from the manufacturer?
What instruction manual? They give you a set of plans and some instructions on various parts you build in a separate document, but there is no 'step by step' instruction document. We just have to ask a lot of questions. They do answer them though, so there is that.
Get some box fans and place so they blow the dust away from you. No bunny suits needed, you will be cooler to.
Still need bunny suits as the saws through dust at our arms, etc. But we will get a big fan soon. :)
Being that you will spend so much time in this cat as your home , Have you been on a schionning to see how the acoustics are? The only cat ive been on was a lagoon, I really didnt like the noise it made walking thru inside, It echoed every step and creeked , very loud and annoying. You might be able to improve the acoustics in the bridge deck if needed ? I kinda got the feeling that the lagoon deck was all glass and not foam, ?
Yes, I have walked around in a Schionning cat, back when I was considering a used boat. One of the great things about their cats is that everything is glassed together with epoxy. Sections aren't modularity made and then dropped in using putty. This means far less sqeakes since it is all one structure. This adds to their strength as well since every cupboard, locker, seat, etc. is part of one big bonded structure.
How come the rollers (especially small metal bubble popping one) don’t mess up the cove you create on the thickened epoxy?
Well, because we let the thickened epoxy setup to a gel consistency before we apply the cloth, then are careful as we roll the bubbles out.
I noticed at 12:18 the beam is open. Is it. Staying that way? If you close it up, Have you thought about drain/weep holes at the very lowest spots of the beam? I know you said it’s sealed on the inside, but what if water does find a way to get in, then it sloshes around inside those forward bulkheads, not causing damage really but just that water slushing sound.
For me, it is not about moisture getting into the forebeam. It will not, unless you have a complete disaster like crashing into something very hard. (Look at the strength of the laminations etc.
It is about air pressure. Think panting/oil-canning (depending on your part of the world). I would put one 0.5mm or 1mm (as small as you want) into each end of the forebeam, After all, the ends are on the inside of the hull. These two very small holes will equalise both positive and negative air pressure relieving any over or under pressure.
Why? I once had a 29 foot boat with two small-ish bouyancy tanks at the stern of the boat that were exposed to late afternoon summer sun here in Australia (temperatures that can be over-and above those in sunny California). There was a very solid plastic cockpit drainage tube running though each of them. The result, the most sun exposed drainage tube was absolutely crushed. Lesson learned. Never happened again. Call me pedantic if you want.
Moisture will get inside a perfectly sealed container that has any air trapped inside. The reason is because of condensation because of temperature changes. You can see this happening when you put a sealed container into the refrigerator as it will form water inside. That is why any air bubbles left when laying up fiberglass are areas where moisture Will develop and cause the fiberglass to start to deteriorate and come apart. Because there is wood within the sealed container, it is guaranteed that there us air in it.
We're not too concerned about that as hundreds of Schionning boats have built their forebeam according to this plan.
The only moisture that can enter a sealed area is the moisture already in the air inside. No new moister can get inside through condensation. That wouldn't be true if we left the ends open, then wet sea air can constantly bring new moisture in and more condensation. The air we seal up in there in the hot dry air of Southern California, will be extremely minimal. If this were an issue, then all of the many sealed watertight positive buoyancy compartments would have the same issue... but they won't. Thousands of cats are built with these included and don't have issues.
@@SailingSVLynx I wouldn't worry either as the moisture in the wood will take 20 to 30 years to rot it.
That cake is a bit hard to chew 😀
No kidding!