Selecting good framers are really important. Having ones that are used too following the way you want it built is great. Or ones that are willing to follow instructions on new materials they haven't used before is also very important.
I’ve only done one project with the zip R6, but I was very impressed. It was only slightly more expensive, but it performs so much better than the R6 suggests. Honestly even with open studs it felt better insulated than some of the projects I’ve done felt after the walls were closed in. It also was very easy to install, and the frames had no complaints. The T studs look like an awesome product, especially for colder climates.
Jake, don’t let the trolls and haters get you down. There are twocamps on bridging, one that think it’s a nothing burger, and the other that thinks it is the route of evil. Reality says somewhere in between and what you’re doing is just fine
@SkinnaMov Not trolling or hating. I asked a genuine question, and this video answered it. I build high performance on spec (much like Brian and Tim Uhler.) All the upgrades I choose to do are out of my own pocket. I fully respect Jake's build methods. Jake was one of the first ones I've seen to build high performance using a non conditioned attic. That is how I build as well. Since Jake has already mastered this technique, I learn a lot from his videos.
I have a question related to indoor air quality. Do LVLs and LSLs typically have formaldehyde-based glues/binders? That could be another reason to use T-studs where straight and flat walls are required if you’re going for a healthy building, assuming the glue for the T-studs dowels does NOT contain formaldehyde. Don’t know why it would as there are plenty of good formaldehyde-free wood glue options.
Cool assembly, but in the case of a limited budget it seems like spending that money on exterior insulation and/or better windows would be more effective overall.
Can you comment on your quality assurance approach with the insulators when blowing in insulation. I worry about the lowest paid person not taking care in making sure insulation fills every crevice. What proof or documentation do you provide the owner and what does the insulator provide? Trust but verify 😁
We do supervise the install, count bags, verify materials, and core test in a couple places during install. We also use the same company and lead installer for the last decade or so. So, just in case he ever sees this comment, Pat with G-5 is a rockstar and we trust him fully. We also still verify.
I did the same on my house. It was there first time blowing TimberFill or seeing Tstuds. Had to have them go back to a few spots they didn't get enough betterment the studs. But it all came out really nice. @@jake.bruton.aarow.building
@0:28 looks like somebody grabbed the wrong nails. Makes me think of some horror shows caused by an otherwise great assembly being ruined by screws causing frost-balls on the insulation inside the wall during the deepest part of the winter. I suspect you're probably going to go with dense-pack blown-in with a smart vapor retarder, which the horror show in question did not, so probably a non-issue though.
We do have a small amount of spray foam on this project in the rim joist location. Everything else is cellulose. Please understand that all products have challenges. CCSP can be unhealthy is installed poorly. However when installed correctly CCSP is perfectly safe once cured and in some locations like the rim joist the right choice.
Staggered framing is even better at eliminating thermal bringing, of course, but it doesn’t address the issue of poor quality (warped, bowed, twisted) lumber. Always trade-offs, so it’s fun and informative to see people’s experience with various options.
Selecting good framers are really important. Having ones that are used too following the way you want it built is great. Or ones that are willing to follow instructions on new materials they haven't used before is also very important.
That was me that asked on the last one. 😆
So you're looking at total wall value plus straight factor. Thanks for answering! 👍
I’ve only done one project with the zip R6, but I was very impressed. It was only slightly more expensive, but it performs so much better than the R6 suggests. Honestly even with open studs it felt better insulated than some of the projects I’ve done felt after the walls were closed in. It also was very easy to install, and the frames had no complaints.
The T studs look like an awesome product, especially for colder climates.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts!
Jake, don’t let the trolls and haters get you down. There are twocamps on bridging, one that think it’s a nothing burger, and the other that thinks it is the route of evil. Reality says somewhere in between and what you’re doing is just fine
Thanks! I actually love the comment section and I love the discourse here. Thanks for the support!!!
@SkinnaMov Not trolling or hating. I asked a genuine question, and this video answered it. I build high performance on spec (much like Brian and Tim Uhler.) All the upgrades I choose to do are out of my own pocket. I fully respect Jake's build methods. Jake was one of the first ones I've seen to build high performance using a non conditioned attic. That is how I build as well. Since Jake has already mastered this technique, I learn a lot from his videos.
I have a question related to indoor air quality. Do LVLs and LSLs typically have formaldehyde-based glues/binders? That could be another reason to use T-studs where straight and flat walls are required if you’re going for a healthy building, assuming the glue for the T-studs dowels does NOT contain formaldehyde. Don’t know why it would as there are plenty of good formaldehyde-free wood glue options.
What’s the cost percentage increase for the t-stud upgrade?
I like it!
I would use TStuds, some LVLs, Zip -R sheathing with lots of Rockwool insulation both inside & out!
Curious if SIPS would be a viable option.
Potentially. However cost has always pushed us away from them each time we have priced them.
Cool assembly, but in the case of a limited budget it seems like spending that money on exterior insulation and/or better windows would be more effective overall.
Sure thing. We have measured energy useage and can say this house is perforing about 30% above passive house. So, for now, that is a huge success.
@jake.bruton.aarow.building impressive 👍
Can you comment on your quality assurance approach with the insulators when blowing in insulation. I worry about the lowest paid person not taking care in making sure insulation fills every crevice. What proof or documentation do you provide the owner and what does the insulator provide? Trust but verify 😁
We do supervise the install, count bags, verify materials, and core test in a couple places during install. We also use the same company and lead installer for the last decade or so. So, just in case he ever sees this comment, Pat with G-5 is a rockstar and we trust him fully. We also still verify.
I did the same on my house. It was there first time blowing TimberFill or seeing Tstuds. Had to have them go back to a few spots they didn't get enough betterment the studs. But it all came out really nice. @@jake.bruton.aarow.building
@0:28 looks like somebody grabbed the wrong nails. Makes me think of some horror shows caused by an otherwise great assembly being ruined by screws causing frost-balls on the insulation inside the wall during the deepest part of the winter. I suspect you're probably going to go with dense-pack blown-in with a smart vapor retarder, which the horror show in question did not, so probably a non-issue though.
They absolutely grabbed the wrong nails. Thankfully they grabbed the ones that were too long and not the other way around!
In what jurisdiction can you get finger jointed studs to act as structural timber?.
For anyone who knows… If you spec No. 2 or better for your SPF is it worse than the equivalent grade from 10 years ago?
Agreed. Our cull rate is crazy these days.
Why not ICF? And you cover a few more steps with the same product!
In our market at least each time we have priced ICF the cost has been too much to justify.
cool. you said healthier but i am assuming you are going to spray foam it?
We do have a small amount of spray foam on this project in the rim joist location. Everything else is cellulose. Please understand that all products have challenges. CCSP can be unhealthy is installed poorly. However when installed correctly CCSP is perfectly safe once cured and in some locations like the rim joist the right choice.
Would a double stud 2x4 wall and non insulated zip perform better at a lower cost?
Potentially.
I thought all of the rejected lumber from job sites ended up being sold to the Home Depot 😂
More thermal bridge elimination is more better.
For less money you could have done staggered 2x4 studs in a 2x6 wall. No new learning for the framer.
This may be in our future. Each build is a new opportunity to learn and grow. We are constantly striving to build as great as our budget allows.
Staggered framing is even better at eliminating thermal bringing, of course, but it doesn’t address the issue of poor quality (warped, bowed, twisted) lumber. Always trade-offs, so it’s fun and informative to see people’s experience with various options.
Why not just build ICF walls? Better for the client, these are very expensive materials paired in the video.