How To Service Your Headset
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- Опубликовано: 15 фев 2015
- Headsets take quite a bit of punishment, especially if you ride in wet weather. In this video, Simon shows you how to service an integrated headset.
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There are two types of headset: Aheadsets and traditional headsets. Few bikes have been made with the traditional headsets in that last 15 years, so we're focussing on 'aheadsets' and an integrated one at that. If you have a bike bought in the last 10 years or so, your headset should be this type.
If you regularly ride in wet weather, cleaning and regreasing your headset is a maintenance job that you'll probably need to do every month or so.
Servicing your headset is a super-simple maintenance job. At a minimum, you'll just need a multitool with 4mm and 5mm allen keys.
If you need new bearings, the headset bearing finder tool that Simon mentions in the video is right here: gcn.eu/1Eg7Zvl
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8 years on and this video is still amazing. Just serviced the headset on my road bike myself for the first time as I could feel a fair bit of grit and sand had made its way in there. Thanks Simon!
Great video among a superb series on servicing the bike! Well done GCN and special thanks to Simon who is mostly in charge with this topic of the GCN show!!!
Simon thank you for this. I’ve just done my first bearing overhaul based on this and I felt confident watching this and following your guide. Always love the GCN videos and team. Thanks 🚲 🙏
Simon you sir are very good teacher, humble and clear in your presentation, i used this lesson to service my MTB head set .thank you
THANK YOU! I watched a few of the maintenance videos which led me to this one. I have been riding for a while and doing my own maintenance, but I never realized there were bearings in the headset that needed servicing. I did that this weekend, but noticed the headset was loose on a ride. Watching your videos again, I realized that the bolt holds everything tight and on further inspection, I needed another spacer to keep everything tight. IT's all fixed up now and everything feels great. Again, Thanks and great videos! Glad I found you guys!
Thank you so much Si! I came home from a ride on my brand new folding bike when I noticed a clunk while turning, worried something was broken but after going through your video I reset the bolt tension correctly and it's just like new, and I know how to service it in future. You guys are the best!
Followed this video to get rid of a very annoying creaking noise after riding in the rain a few times , worked a treat the front end is now silent again.
The best bike related videos on RUclips so far! Keep up the good work!
Great simple and clear advice as ever. Bottom bearing, though still moving was stuck fast. WD40 and gentle prying with a screw driver didn't work, so a bit of plastic pipe down the stem and a gentle "tap" with a rubber mallet. That did the job, but tbe the complete sealed bearing split into 4 pieces and the ball bearings vanished all over the garage floor! Looks like I'm going the bike shop tomorrow!
Pro tip: keep one finger grease-free so you don't get grease all over your laptop space bar!
Hilarious!
Tim Ball ha ha, yep, i was using a knuckle on the tablet. doh
I wish I'd read this comment first! :D
I always use my nose
Tim Ball or phone screen!🤣🤣🤣
Thank you very much - just the information I needed, no nonsense delivery and clearly presented.
Love how these vids make me want to be my own mechanic!
I have a Cannondale which has a different compression mech. I had to look into it further and learnt how important it was to set this mech to aid the compression of the stem bold on a carbon fork. This was my first point of call though. Thank you.
Thanks GCN a big help. just did my first head set cleaning. and got rid of a bump ! --- Toronto
I'm just returning to cycling, and I'm attempting to get myself back in shape so I can start commuting to work (6mi each way, 5/days per week with a beast of a hill each way). I've just serviced my hybrid, including the headset, which was filthy. My top tip for cleaning the bearings is to use an old hand cream tub and fill it about a third full of white spirit (or your chosen degreaser), drop the bearing in screw the lid down then give it a gentle shake for a minute or so. It's amazing just how much crap comes out of the bearings.
Just followed this guide for my Defy, turns out there wasn't that much grease on it originally... Explains why it squeaked. Excellent guide, cheers guys.
Good explanation. I have a Ribble sport 872 which uses a Level 52 Headset - 42-52mm Tapered. I’ve done approaching 6000 miles with Mansfield RC on it and I’m just gonna change it as a general service. I did the bottom bracket on it after 1000 as it was bought second hand.
Good post - clear explanations and very useful
One of your most useful videos! Keep up the good work! 🙂
You didn't show taking out or replacing the top top cartridge bearing. Which way round should it be, rubber seal up or down?
Also I noticed my compression ring a the cover didn't hold the fork in when I replaced it - I had to balance on one leg and hold it in with my foot, much to the neighbours amusement.
Thanks for this video! i have been meaning to do this for a while, this got me motivated again.
GOD BLESS THIS VIDEO! i've been installing my bearings in the wrong way, till' i came across this vid!
Thank you mate, I have solved my bearings problem out with your suggestions about servicing the fork. Cheeers +++
Note in a Giant OD2 headset there is a very thin (0.3mm?) metal shim that goes between the bearing cap and the compression ring. this part is critical in the OD2 headsets working - without it the bearing cap compresses on the top of the head tube and it binds up.
Thanks for this lesson! I was able to service my headset and get rid of a noise when I steer the headset.
great video. Now I'll be able to service these modern ones. I've done many threaded headsets.
I have a FSA headset and I can imagine this is what I'll be doing. Good demonstration.
Thank you Simon, worked exactly as you explained.
brilliant video, just had a crack at mine for the first time (used the comuter not the race bike, incase mistakes were made). cheers for the help an £40 saving from the bike shop.
Great tutorial thanks a lot! Did this for the first time; even ended up taking the bearings themselves apart to clean; wasn't enough though and the bottom one needs urgent replacement!
Glad it helped
Great vid, just cleaned my headset but on my bike I had an additional part which needed loosening and removing before the top bearing and cap could be removed. Was trying to pull bearing and cap off but wouldn't budge when at top. Having a closer look I seen an Allen key shape in this part where I loosened and then happy days. I've got a lapierre just in case any1 has similar issue
This has just restored my sanity. My headset wasn't fully tight and the front fork was rattling on rough roads. It was driving me bonkers. Thanks for the video Si.
Glad it helped!
Excellent video thanks. I loosened my stem to pack my bike away in bikebox. The fork fell out and those barings went everywhere. Have not been able to figure out how to get it back together the way it was. This video was useful as at least now I know what some of the parts are for. I don't remember the spacing though. Wish I'd seen this video first!
Today is 2021, thanks for the video simon... It helped me a lot
hi just want to say thank you. Been getting a clicking towards the front of the bike, doesn't go away when I stop pedalling and the more pressure on the handle bars the worse it is. I tried this. Still need to test the bike out to see if it's cured but had fun and learnt something new! Thanks so much
Just solved my issue, all because I had the handle bars tightened in position. Thanks GCN ;).
Perfect, exactly what I was looking for.
Great video. Thanks GCN!
As usual, really helpful video. Now I just have to do it, I hope it's as easy as you make it look!
Time to watch this video since my bike is squeaking somewhere on the front wheel, but I _just_ serviced the front hub today, so it's probably the headset. Thanks!
Great video, thank you, straight to the point and easy to do… in theory, I’ll give it a go and see what happens
Really happy you enjoyed it Andres!
I just performed this and what a difference. The bottom bearing had all the gunk on it and was just wee bit noisy. I cleaned out the old grease and repacked it and it's quiet as a church mouse now and my steerer is smoother with less friction. With that said, I wonder how many pro bike racers know how to perform work on their rides.
Thanks for the video.
Absolutely amazing video
Any reason you didn't use something like isopropyl achohol to help remove the old grease? I understood that this was good because it quickly evaporates leaving a clean dry surface for the new grease.
cheers I like these How To videos as a bicycle mechanic is a good way to remind myself how to do these things
Great video! I have sometimes the problem that after tightning the headset top cap the spacers can still turn around. I suppose that if the compression is ok, everything must be firm and the spacers can't move around? Anybody a suggestion?
Crystal clear. Thank you!
Thanks! I was tightening the stem bolts before the top cap... Oops. And that was making the headset squeak.
Thanks. Good clear instructions.
Thanks for the video! I find this and all the other videos yo have very helpful. I had followed this video to resolve a creaking noise, then on my first ride after I was wondering: what about the steerer tube?! Does it need any compound - or make sure there is no compound - to ride safely?
I had put this together, as you did in the video, but without paying special attention to the steerer tube's connection with the stem. I tested the headset for play as you showed in the video. I also tested the connection to the stem by pulling on the bar while standing over the front wheel. However, I was still worried about it on my first ride as I wasn't quite sure if I did the right thing: should there be no (fiber grip) compound on the surface between the steerer tube and stem (both are carbon on my bike)? At a minimum, I should probably make sure there *isn't* any residual grease on the steerer tube when putting the stem on?
awesome video. cleaned so much gunk out the headset. top marks!
Although not generally applicable during normal maintenance, I suppose you may also mention the use of expander bungs for carbon steerer in place of a star nut. Perheps a video on how to replace a fork later on?
watched this video in early january and got inspired.
cleaning your headset outside without a workstand or gloves, in sub-zero temepratures, is not fun. particularly when your hands get wet
Glad to hear you were inspired - completely sympathise with the freezing temperatures though, that's no fun at all!
Hey Simon, I did this routine and in the end all went well. However in the FSA headset of my Focus Culebro there wasn't any bearings, just two identical conical rings that sit around the steerer in the head tube. Plus the compression ring and the final cover on the upside. The fork was sliding out as soon as I took off the top cap and the stem. Eventually I greased and fitted everything back together and eliminated a 5mm play that was there before, but is it normal to have the steerer turn around without bearings?
If doing this task check first whether your headset is newer slip fit (as seen in this video) or interference fit. The latter needs multiple specialist tools which works out quite expensive for an occasional job. Consider using local bike shop or at least cost out the tools in advance.
perfect all I needed to see. thank you
Someone needs there front brake adjusted, brake lever touching the handlebar big no no haha. Nice video. I did this on my first trek as i was getting a clicking over bumps. Took everything apart and re-greased.
This is so good. Thank you!!!
I live in Florida so yeah this has been an issue.Got a bicycle with a tapered headset tube essentially bottom bearing ring bigger than the top bearing cage ring.Well bottom bearing cage ring got crushed after the headset came loose and I didn't check to see if the ring was back up in the headset before tightening top cap.None of the local bicycle shops had that size of bearing cage ring so it was suggested I go old school with grease and loose bearings.Man it was not easy but put in more loose bearings left a gap so they could move around easily in cup.Did the trick.No more fighting my bicycle when steering and front moves,swinga freely no sticking!
Easy to understand for me that. Cheers
My HOY Sa Colabra headset is clicking and is overdue a service. I will follow Si instructions and see how I get on.
More than likely need to replace the bearings though.
I find turning the handlebar to the left or right to check for play. That way there is no small wheel movement despite the brake engaged.
I'd also be inclined to use less grease as it basically becomes a magnet of all kinds of crap sticking to it.
sy....you are a fine educator. excellent job showing us the way. :)
this is the way
They make them more simple than they used to be.
Thanks for the video. Mine has been a little squeaky, but I've been lazy to service them, and I rode in a huge down pour yesterday. Started home today, and the dam thing seized. Almost killed me, and then I had to walk it back for 2 hours.
First time in 45 years that happened.
Mistakes happen. Thankfully, if you can put a couple of hours aside, you can fully service your bike and have it running like new with little to no effort, especially with sealed bearings. No more worrying about loose beads.
Very useful video. On a second watching, though, it seems (though maybe I am somehow missing it) that you do not show the loosening of the stem bolts. I am going to guess this comes after the loosening of the top cap bolt and before lifting the bar and stem off the bike.
I had to add two thin spacers because turning the handlebar to the left all of a sudden got stiff, tough to turn. Much better now.
I have a rocky mountain 2011 element 70 msl frame and a 2017 fox float grip tapered fork on the way. I,m looking for a headset that would fit on the frame since the head tube also have tapered corners. fsa or any good brand
great video and tips! but what about canyon headset bearings? apparently they are not easy to find on the market.
Great video Si!
Thank you GCN, you are soo good :)
I have some questions can i ask you ?
Since you guys are riding Canyon like I do, could you do a video sometime about the weird system Canyon is using (acros Ai-70)? Thanks!
A really great help thanks 🙏
Everything on my bike is antiquated and I always have to watch a second video lol. Traditional headset video for me
Do you need to service the headset to avoid or prevent tweaking sounds when i\m riding i always here that sound, when im turning left and right?
Hi Simon, I have a similar bike (Ridley Helium SL) and want to replace my headset. I am looking for some Chris Ring but I am not sure about the right model to fit my bike. Could you indicate 2 or 3? Thanks, Francisco
helped a lot thanks
When I adjust my headset I have to really tighten it alot until it stop clonking, and the fork moves freely until I tighten my stem bolts, then it stops moving by itself (lots of friction I guess). I dont get it !!
Great video, thanks
Great video ! Very helpful for service my bike. Kudos
+Jonathan Araya Gld the video helped Jonathan and thanks for getting in touch!
+Global Cycling Network I wanted to service my bike's headset but I'm having a difficulty. I have a GPS tracker in there and I have no idea what to do now. any suggestions?
I'm gonna take a shot at your question, and the solution is probably simpler than you think. You must be referring to a tube-shaped GPS inside the steerer tube, I assume. That entire GPS unit slides right out, while removing the hex bolt at the top, and when re-installed, together they do the same job as a threadless headset top-cap & bolt. That is, they create the initial compression that sets the adjustment on the bearings. Once the tracker is removed from the bike (by removing that extra-long top bolt), you can then proceed to service or replace the bearings or the entire headset assembly, as shown in this video.
Once you've done that, you can re-assemble the headset and then use that same bolt of the GPS to FINE-TUNE the bearing adjustment, and then align the stem to the wheel & tighten the stem bolts. The tightened stem itself actually provides the brute clamping force to KEEP the bearings adjusted, and you could actually remove the GPS unit (or, the top-cap & short bolt of a threadless w/no GPS) at that point & ride the bike without it, the same as you can do to a standard threadless headset. In essence, the GPS unit and its bolt are simply replacing the top-cap & bolt of the original headset. The bolt and the GPS should be removed together, so try gradually raising the GPS out of the steerer tube as the bolt is loosened, removing the bolt & GPS as a single assembly.
GPS or no, the top bolt is really only an adjuster, and not an adjustment-locking mechanism. If the stem was just barely tight enough to stay aligned with the wheel, the top bolt, the cap, and the nut would be taking the brunt of a task they weren't designed to do. They may hold the adjustment a while, but the threads may come loose or strip, and/or the top cap could cave in or even break from the transfer of the stresses of actual riding. They'd only last a very short time in actual use before the bearings first went out of adjustment, followed by some real damage, including to the rider.
The type of nut that holds this bolt may be one of two types: One is the star-fangled nut commonly used for threadless headsets, and the other is a cylindrical assembly that I'll refer to as an "expanding nut", for lack of a proper term. On the cylindrical type, it has a large bolt that is tightened to expand the assembly until it firmly grips the inside of the steerer, and that large bolt has the smaller threaded hole into which the cap bolt is threaded' this type of anchor can be removed & re-used, using a larger (6mm?) hex key. A star-fangled nut can only be removed by using a punch and a mallet to drive it downward & out the bottom of the steerer tube, and should never be re-used once it's been removed.
You won't need to remove the nut to merely service your bearings anyway, but if you perhaps sell the bike and want to keep your GPS, you'll want an original-style top cap and another extra-long bolt to replace the GPS parts on the bike. A long replacement bolt is necessary, since when the GPS was installed, the anchoring nut was re-located much deeper into the steerer than a standard anchoring nut would normally be (to make room for the GPS unit).
You certainly can install a new star-fangled nut in the upper area of the steerer if you wish to use the standard short top-cap bolt, but I don't recommend this unless you first remove the cylindrical expansion nut below it. You'll never get either of them out of the steerer, if they're both in there like that at the same time. Okay, in truth, you COULD get them out, but it'd involve machinery and probably at least a little damage to the interior surface of the steerer.
If you're confident that there's no dirt, wear, or a lack of lube in the (loose) bearings, you can simply try loosening the clamp bolts on the stem where it attaches to the steerer tube and then making the bolt at the top tighter, skipping ahead to the last part of this video as a guide for final adjustment, and you just might be okay. Just check it afterward for roughness or center-detention -- sure signs of at least dirt, and at worst, damage to the bearings and/or cups & races. They would need replacing, if so.
Hope this helps.
Home
thank you this worked for me!
Very helpful
How much torque do you tighten the expansion plug in the carbon steerer tube? thanks
Great video! Thanks
I'm having trouble with my headset its too loose how do I tight it
Is the method the same for the Canyon CF SLX that uses the Acros Ai-70?
I took my front end apart the other day hopibg to give the headset bearings a fresh dab of grease. Got the top bearing out of the cup easy enough. For the bottom one, i tried to pry it out with a screw driver but ended up taking out the inner steel ring and exposing the ball bearings. Manages to get everything back together alright, but how should I go about it the next time?
Would you make a video of headset bearing measurements
another quality video
si i notice what sounds like a rubbing noise when standing and rocking the bike during pedaling. thought it was a wheel bearing but it doesnt feel rough spinning it by hand and theres no horiziontal play in it either. could it be a headset bearing worn out? the bikes probably 7 years old or so by now, it hasnt been ridden 5.000k every year by any means but its still old and has never been serviced. think that could be it?
How often is it recommended this be done - time wise? I don't feel any issue with my mine, but is there a time frame that this should be done? Thanks
On taking apart the headset on my hybrid there is a rubber seal which is supposed to sit directly on the forks, but it doesnt seem to sit snug where its supposed to and therefore i cant put the headset back together properly, any advise would be helpfull?
smart idea to have your fingers around the headset to feel for any play! thnx
It's my fork that rocks against the bottom race when it's all tight. Is bottom bearing knackered? I'll do this service and see if it stops it. Thanks.
I was inspired by this video to service the headset on my 6 year old bike with 30K+ km. Once the "hazmat" removal team lets me back in to my workshop :-) I will need to decide what to do about the cartridge bearings. They are corroded but still rotate pretty freely...some resistance but no obvious rough spots. Any rules of thumb for determining if they are shot (before I assemble everything and use Si's advice to play around with the tightening bolts)?
I was hoping this would be a discussion on servicing those Bluetooth headsets I use whilst biking. Always a pain when you're jamming to music pedalling hard and all of a sudden the connection is lost! 😅
This is 10 times better than the 2021 remake of this video. 👏
Just resolved a really annoying creak on my bike after watching this. Awesome.
Glad we could help!
How to change your non tapered fork to tapered fork on a road bike? Please make a video thanks
Do you think it's ok to put grease between carbon frame and bearings?
Can i you loosed bearing at the place of caged bearing, is it cause any damage to my headset ?? Thanks!!