Thanks so much for this mounting method. Building HOn3 shelf layout above my N-scale layout. This is going to certainly relieve some worries when mounting the tortoise. Your JMRI tutorials are awesome!
Very Thorough and technically accurate presentation! Gained a lot of good info. I like the screw terminals added to the Smail itself for both the 8 and 3 terminal blocks. I like the “Euroblock” terminal strip to keep all the work away from the unit. Your technique of dropping the wire down is opposite from our method, but I will try it just to explore the idea! We attach a small Masonite square with outer predrilled holes mounted to the motor to give better access to the mounting location.
Jim Thanks for the information I just got my first batch of SMAIL's Like the idea of the connectors just ordered them. I power all my frogs so you said the pins on the smail are the same as the tortoise machine if that is correct then I know which pin I need to power the frog. I also use push buttons on my panels I can control the turnouts 4 wayts 1 panel two throttle , three JMRI panel and 4 my iphone using withrrotle. I use Push buttons that had red and green led they are momentary push buttons from allelectroincs that way my panel is cleaner.
Yes, the middle 6 pins on the Smail are the same as on the Tortoise. You can use one switch to power the frog and the other for the indicator lites. If you need to control more items, you can add a relay (I like the simple DPDT relays from Azatrax). I used to use two pushbuttons (from AllElectronics), but in my latest panel changed to a single momentary SPDT miniature toggle switch (also from AllElectonics). Panel is even cleaner! You got it! 4 ways to control the turnout! If you add a couple iPads around the layout, you can also use Touch Control to operate the turnouts. I think that is even easier than using the control panel switches. :-) And you will be all set when you decide to play with automatic trains as JMRI can change the turnouts automatically!
Jim great vid, love the terminal crimps. Question Smail v Tortoise is there a difference in casing heights and overall dimension underside of baseboard to wire exiting bottom terminal blocks ? Head room for lower deck is my issue. Thanks JP
Interesting and very good the way you explain the assembly of this system. I want to know your opinion about these "smail" I bought several packages of 12, as you mention for the cost. I already have them mounted and not connected, because I don't know how to do it, and precisely this I want to know how to do. I have two options to connect to, a Z21 or an MTH, which do you recommend and if you have a video on how to do it. Thank you very much and greetings
Thanks for your comments. At the very beginning of the Smail Switch Machine Installation video I explain how to hook up the Smail. You hook track power, the same as connected to the track, to the outside contacts and it stays connected full time. Then hook a push button between the middle of the 3 lower contacts and either of the other 2 contacts. A momentary contact will cause the motor to move to one side. Use the other contact and it moves back. Do NOT use DC for anything while using the Smail. Review the first part of the video.
@@jimworcester981 I appreciate such a quick response, very kind. You will have some photos of that connection, to better understand the shape of the connections.
@@juanmanuelvelazquezfernand8765 there is a good diagram at the bottom of page 3 of the instructions that came with the Smail. It shows how to hook up the Smail. There is also at least one additional video that shows details on the Smail installation.
Jim - great video, however, I would like to know how to wire the push button switches and led lights to the smail if possible, I'm an old guy with very little wiring experience -
Thanks Phil. I'm old too! Push buttons only work with the Smail and NOT the Tortoise. On the Smail, the three terminals grouped together on the bottom of the connector board (I showed soldering a screw terminal strip to those holes also) are used to control the Smail. You can try it with a piece of wire. Make sure you have track power connected to terminals 1 and 8 on the main terminal strip (furthest from or top of the connector board). Then touch a wire between the center and either outside terminal. The Smail should move to the other side. If nothing happens the first time, try the other one. It only takes a momentary contact. Thus you can hook push buttons to accomplish the task. Run a wire from the center terminal to one side of two simple pushbuttons. Connect the other side of each pushbutton to one of the outside terminals in the group of three. FINI. The LEDs are almost as easy. On the main terminal strip (the one with 8 holes) the middle 6 terminals make up two separate single pole double throw switches. You only need one to make the lights work. Connect one side of your LED power supply (I use 12 volts DC - make sure there is a resistor in there - the ones I use have a built in resistor) to one side of each light. Connect the other side of the power supply to the #4 or #5 terminal on the strip. The common connection for each of those two switches is #4 or #5. The output for #4 is either #2 or #3 and, likewise for #5 is either #6 or #7. Then just connect one output to the other wire on each light. As the Smail moves from one side to the other, the switch changes which output is powered and thus which LED comes on. If the LED doesn't light either way, you have the leads reversed to the LED. It won't light if the power is hooked up backwards. (It's a diode only allowing current to flow one way). If the wrong light comes on when the Smail is thrown one way, reverse the connection to terminals 2 and 3 (or 6 and 7). Try it on the workbench before you crawl around under the table and you will understand better. Let me know if I didn't explain clearly. Jim
Thanks for this great video, really helps with understanding and preforming the install. I do have a couple tool related questions. I am building a layoit in N scale Atlas Code 55 track with side mounted turnout actuators but would like to drill them for inside the rail actuation for more realistic appearance to the track work by cutting off the side actuators. I purchased a small battery powered drill but it's horribly wobbly and useless for detail work. Can you tell me the drill you used? It is clear from the video (and audio) this is a much superior drill and might allow me to not have to drill holes in 24 turnouts by hand. Also wondered what small powered screw driver you used. That too appears very nice. Thanks again for the video and for your help.
Thanks! I have two Black and Decker battery powered drills that I got from Lowes. Inexpensive and lightweight. Get some of the very small, numbered drill bits. You’ll probably break them once in a while but I’ve used them a lot in building my layout. The screwdriver is a must have! Search Amazon for GENERAL TOOLS 500 Precision Cordless Electric Screwdriver.
@@jimworcester981 Thank you... It was a great video and the mounting method will be my goto way of setting my 24 Smail turnout motors. The use of ring tongue lugs is outstanding.
Jim, I would like to know the part manufacturer or part numbers you use for the pushbutton and the LEDs? Also, can you still hook up the electrified frog and the LEDS?
The LEDs I ordered from Amazon.: 5PCS/set 8mm 5/16" LED Signal Indicator Bulb Metal Shell Pilot Dash Light with Cable Length 20.5cm / 8.1 inch for Car Auto Vehicle Boat Careful they come in several types. I like Type C. All come with resistor already installed. I'm not sure where I bought the pushbuttons. I think also on Amazon. I think these were the last ones I bought as they already had leads attached. Anything small and cheap! Twidec/10Pcs 1A 250V AC 2 Pins SPST Red Normal Open Mini Momentary Push Button Switch with Pre-soldered Wires PBS-110-XR Since there are two SPDT (single pole double throw) switches on the Tortoise and Smail, you can use one for the indicator lights and one for the frog, although I have not powered any of my frogs.
Hi Jim, hope you are well, so the SMAIL would eliminate the need for something like a separate turnout motor and a decoder like a DR4018 from digikeijs right?
Yes. The Smail is a Tortoise with built-in decoder. No need for the 4018 nor DS64 from Digitrax. I started using them from the beginning of my new layout and glad I did. Cost is about the same when you add a decoder to control Tortoises.
There are two SPDT switches integral to both the Smail and Tortoise. The middle six terminals on the main connector are the leads for those switches. 3 on each side. The two terminals in the middle are the common or input to the respective switches. The next two terminals on each side are the output from the switches. For frog control, you would actually connect each side of track power to one of those output terminals and the frog to the common terminal. Whenever the machine changes position it would also change the track power side that is connected to the frog. Now, FYI, I have not powered any frog on my layout and I have around 30 turnouts. But I also have newer locos that are powered from all wheels so the locomotive is never without power even if one truck is on the frog! If you are running short locos or a steam loco that gets power from the tender, or some other similar situation, then there might be a problem with the frog. In our club layout I also did not wire the frogs and no one has complained! Some older turnouts or #8 or larger turnouts have frogs that are pretty long and thus might need to be powered.
Thanks so much for this mounting method. Building HOn3 shelf layout above my N-scale layout. This is going to certainly relieve some worries when mounting the tortoise. Your JMRI tutorials are awesome!
Thanks! Glad it helped
Thank you for doing the tutorial, it was very helpful.
You’re welcome 😊
Very Thorough and technically accurate presentation! Gained a lot of good info. I like the screw terminals added to the Smail itself for both the 8 and 3 terminal blocks.
I like the “Euroblock” terminal strip to keep all the work away from the unit.
Your technique of dropping the wire down is opposite from our method, but I will try it just to explore the idea! We attach a small Masonite square with outer predrilled holes mounted to the motor to give better access to the mounting location.
Jim Thanks for the information I just got my first batch of SMAIL's Like the idea of the connectors just ordered them. I power all my frogs so you said the pins on the smail are the same as the tortoise machine if that is correct then I know which pin I need to power the frog. I also use push buttons on my panels I can control the turnouts 4 wayts 1 panel two throttle , three JMRI panel and 4 my iphone using withrrotle. I use Push buttons that had red and green led they are momentary push buttons from allelectroincs that way my panel is cleaner.
Yes, the middle 6 pins on the Smail are the same as on the Tortoise. You can use one switch to power the frog and the other for the indicator lites. If you need to control more items, you can add a relay (I like the simple DPDT relays from Azatrax). I used to use two pushbuttons (from AllElectronics), but in my latest panel changed to a single momentary SPDT miniature toggle switch (also from AllElectonics). Panel is even cleaner! You got it! 4 ways to control the turnout! If you add a couple iPads around the layout, you can also use Touch Control to operate the turnouts. I think that is even easier than using the control panel switches. :-) And you will be all set when you decide to play with automatic trains as JMRI can change the turnouts automatically!
Super explanation, thank you !
Jim great vid, love the terminal crimps. Question Smail v Tortoise is there a difference in casing heights and overall dimension underside of baseboard to wire exiting bottom terminal blocks ? Head room for lower deck is my issue. Thanks
JP
The size of the Smail and Tortoise are exactly the same. The only difference is in the internal wiring where the Smail incorporates a decoder.
one thing I would hadndone you had the wire drop in the hole . you could just lift and drop the wire in the hoe instead of cripping the blue thing on
Interesting and very good the way you explain the assembly of this system. I want to know your opinion about these "smail" I bought several packages of 12, as you mention for the cost. I already have them mounted and not connected, because I don't know how to do it, and precisely this I want to know how to do. I have two options to connect to, a Z21 or an MTH, which do you recommend and if you have a video on how to do it. Thank you very much and greetings
Thanks for your comments. At the very beginning of the Smail Switch Machine Installation video I explain how to hook up the Smail. You hook track power, the same as connected to the track, to the outside contacts and it stays connected full time. Then hook a push button between the middle of the 3 lower contacts and either of the other 2 contacts. A momentary contact will cause the motor to move to one side. Use the other contact and it moves back. Do NOT use DC for anything while using the Smail. Review the first part of the video.
@@jimworcester981 I appreciate such a quick response, very kind. You will have some photos of that connection, to better understand the shape of the connections.
@@juanmanuelvelazquezfernand8765 there is a good diagram at the bottom of page 3 of the instructions that came with the Smail. It shows how to hook up the Smail. There is also at least one additional video that shows details on the Smail installation.
Thank you
Welcome!
Jim - great video, however, I would like to know how to wire the push button switches and led lights to the smail if possible, I'm an old guy with very little wiring experience -
Thanks Phil. I'm old too!
Push buttons only work with the Smail and NOT the Tortoise. On the Smail, the three terminals grouped together on the bottom of the connector board (I showed soldering a screw terminal strip to those holes also) are used to control the Smail. You can try it with a piece of wire. Make sure you have track power connected to terminals 1 and 8 on the main terminal strip (furthest from or top of the connector board). Then touch a wire between the center and either outside terminal. The Smail should move to the other side. If nothing happens the first time, try the other one. It only takes a momentary contact. Thus you can hook push buttons to accomplish the task. Run a wire from the center terminal to one side of two simple pushbuttons. Connect the other side of each pushbutton to one of the outside terminals in the group of three. FINI.
The LEDs are almost as easy. On the main terminal strip (the one with 8 holes) the middle 6 terminals make up two separate single pole double throw switches. You only need one to make the lights work. Connect one side of your LED power supply (I use 12 volts DC - make sure there is a resistor in there - the ones I use have a built in resistor) to one side of each light. Connect the other side of the power supply to the #4 or #5 terminal on the strip. The common connection for each of those two switches is #4 or #5. The output for #4 is either #2 or #3 and, likewise for #5 is either #6 or #7. Then just connect one output to the other wire on each light. As the Smail moves from one side to the other, the switch changes which output is powered and thus which LED comes on. If the LED doesn't light either way, you have the leads reversed to the LED. It won't light if the power is hooked up backwards. (It's a diode only allowing current to flow one way). If the wrong light comes on when the Smail is thrown one way, reverse the connection to terminals 2 and 3 (or 6 and 7). Try it on the workbench before you crawl around under the table and you will understand better. Let me know if I didn't explain clearly.
Jim
Thanks for this great video, really helps with understanding and preforming the install. I do have a couple tool related questions. I am building a layoit in N scale Atlas Code 55 track with side mounted turnout actuators but would like to drill them for inside the rail actuation for more realistic appearance to the track work by cutting off the side actuators. I purchased a small battery powered drill but it's horribly wobbly and useless for detail work. Can you tell me the drill you used? It is clear from the video (and audio) this is a much superior drill and might allow me to not have to drill holes in 24 turnouts by hand. Also wondered what small powered screw driver you used. That too appears very nice. Thanks again for the video and for your help.
Thanks! I have two Black and Decker battery powered drills that I got from Lowes. Inexpensive and lightweight. Get some of the very small, numbered drill bits. You’ll probably break them once in a while but I’ve used them a lot in building my layout. The screwdriver is a must have! Search Amazon for GENERAL TOOLS 500 Precision Cordless Electric Screwdriver.
@@jimworcester981 Thank you... It was a great video and the mounting method will be my goto way of setting my 24 Smail turnout motors. The use of ring tongue lugs is outstanding.
Jim, I would like to know the part manufacturer or part numbers you use for the pushbutton and the LEDs? Also, can you still hook up the electrified frog and the LEDS?
The LEDs I ordered from Amazon.:
5PCS/set 8mm 5/16" LED Signal Indicator Bulb Metal Shell Pilot Dash Light with Cable Length 20.5cm / 8.1 inch for Car Auto Vehicle Boat
Careful they come in several types. I like Type C. All come with resistor already installed.
I'm not sure where I bought the pushbuttons. I think also on Amazon. I think these were the last ones I bought as they already had leads attached. Anything small and cheap!
Twidec/10Pcs 1A 250V AC 2 Pins SPST Red Normal Open Mini Momentary Push Button Switch with Pre-soldered Wires PBS-110-XR
Since there are two SPDT (single pole double throw) switches on the Tortoise and Smail, you can use one for the indicator lights and one for the frog, although I have not powered any of my frogs.
Hi Jim, hope you are well, so the SMAIL would eliminate the need for something like a separate turnout motor and a decoder like a DR4018 from digikeijs right?
Yes. The Smail is a Tortoise with built-in decoder. No need for the 4018 nor DS64 from Digitrax. I started using them from the beginning of my new layout and glad I did. Cost is about the same when you add a decoder to control Tortoises.
@@jimworcester981 awesome thank you
thanks for your reply Jim - one other question - how do you power the frog in all of that?
There are two SPDT switches integral to both the Smail and Tortoise. The middle six terminals on the main connector are the leads for those switches. 3 on each side. The two terminals in the middle are the common or input to the respective switches. The next two terminals on each side are the output from the switches. For frog control, you would actually connect each side of track power to one of those output terminals and the frog to the common terminal. Whenever the machine changes position it would also change the track power side that is connected to the frog. Now, FYI, I have not powered any frog on my layout and I have around 30 turnouts. But I also have newer locos that are powered from all wheels so the locomotive is never without power even if one truck is on the frog! If you are running short locos or a steam loco that gets power from the tender, or some other similar situation, then there might be a problem with the frog. In our club layout I also did not wire the frogs and no one has complained! Some older turnouts or #8 or larger turnouts have frogs that are pretty long and thus might need to be powered.
Do you have a part number for connector board?
Just search for terminal block for Smail