BEGINNER'S Guide To GRAPHITE Pencils
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
- If I could condense everything you need to know about graphite pencils as a beginner into a single 9-minute video, it would look something like this :)
This is a 'lite' version of my recent graphite pencils class on Skillshare. If you'd like to follow in more detail and complete the class project, you can grab 30 days free Skillshare membership with the link below!
skl.sh/3NQLVmB
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Materials List
As an Amazon associate I make a small commission on purchases made through these links at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your support :)
Faber-Castell Matt Graphite Pencil Set: amzn.to/44qdCZT
Strathmore Bristol Board Paper: amzn.to/3YynvVO
Faber-Castell Putty Eraser: amzn.to/3rRPkpa
Electric Eraser: amzn.to/3AguYPn
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Explore my Channel
/ gemmachambersart
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Follow me to see more!
💙 Facebook: / gemmachambersart
❤️ Instagram: / gemmachambersart
💙 Twitter: / gemmachambersa1
#arttutorials #pencildrawing #graphite 
Хобби
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I think I have said it before but you are the very best art teacher on you tube. Nothing is left out. And the videos are perfectly put together. Thank you.
ummmm.... ok
Thank you for sharing.
As a (primarily) graphite artist, I must say that I work differently. I used to work from the lightest pencil to the darkest, but it just didn't work for me that way. Whether I do people or animals, I started working in sections. For ex. I start with one eye, and finish the eye. Then I'll move on to the area around the eye and finish that. And I move around the portrait like that until I'm completely done.
In doing so, I can work up to the previous finished bit and I struggle less with the 'ugly stage.' I've gotten questions from people on this method when sharing progress pics on my IG, but I can't say anything more intelligent than 'It just works for me' :)
I work in sections, too. But I make a complete outline drawing of my subject first, drawn very lightly. I make sure I have the proportions right before filling in details. I usually start on the eyes if I'm doing a portrait.
Just make sure you take a step back once you've rendered your whole piece and make sure the values agree throughout the piece. An issue with working in sections like this is that you may end up essentially working in different value ranges across the piece. I used to work like this for quick pieces like commissioned portraits etc but for my longer pieces i still like to block in my larger swathes of values to make sure the whole piece is coherent and I avoid trying to broadly darken or lighten areas without losing progress on detailed portions I have finished. You can always pull back with an eraser for highlights, but you may find it difficult to adjust mid tones in "finished" sections
@@MaksKuaka Thank you for your advice. But I've been drawing for over 60 years. You haven't seen my work, but I can assure you that I don't have any problems with my drawing techniques or value consistency.
I've been doing photorealistic graphite drawings for many years, and I agree with your recommendations.
Smooth Bristol board is the best paper. Too much tooth on the paper surface can fight you when you're trying to draw details, so smooth is best for me.
We call putty erasers kneaded erasers here in the US, for those who want to purchase them here. I also like the Tombow Mono Zero eraser, which I trim by cutting the eraser at an angle to get very sharp edges.
Also, I love the Kum double sharpener a lot. One hole sharpens the pencil, the other one hones the graphite to a very sharp point, great for details.
I just discovered your channel, and I think this is a great video! No extra chatter, clear explanations, and technically excellent! Thanks!
Tysm for the tutorial
Thank you for your videos. You are very good at explaining the Whys for each thing you do.
Love your videos they're well explained and great, thanks👍🏻
you are so incredibly talented thank you for educating us i really appreciate it! ❤
So well explained! Thank you! ❤
Your ipad case looks funny 😊. I like your videos, thanks
Amazing 🤯
I’m glad I found your videos. When I retire in the autumn I think I am going to join skill share. When you smudged the thin stem and leaf, how did you then crisp your edges? Do you do it with the putty eraser, which seems like it would be difficult given its blobby nature, or do you use the electric eraser?
You are the best in this thanks
Thank goodness for Smoothie77 !!
I’m sight impaired so I have to begin drawing with 4B or I can’t detect where my outline is . But it seems to work out when I lay down darks first then bring in my lighter pencil marks
How do you find the Goldfaber compared to the 9000 pencils, comparing similar shades rather than comparing the same stamped grade.
how much does the electric eraser cost? and like can i not use it? also i ONLY have SKETCH paper and Im applying for all saints and need a whole relistic drawing with these by the end of the week.
bruh im lost.
I've been doing photorealistic graphite drawings for many years, and I don't own an electric eraser. But good paper is necessary. If there is an art supply store near you, you could buy a single sheet of good paper if you aren't sure you want to invest in a large pad of paper. I like Bristol board.
I get a kick out of your accent! "Droring." Hilarious! 😊
Are your classes different than in your Patreon?
Could I just ask, when using graphite pencils, how do you protect your paper whilst drawing, so no smudges or elsewhere on the paper
Lift your hand
A little
While drawing or sketching
😊
Do you spray with a fixative?
Graphite pencils suck . I have LOTS unused
You are very beautiful.
you did not need to say that but... you are tho
can I date you?