I was looking for something completely different when I came across this video. I really enjoy the simple, straight forward style in which it was presented. Thanks for creating such work!
Literally just what I needed. George, if you reading the comments even afte all this time since posting the vid, I would like to wholeheartedly thank you, you have just saved me quite a bit of money and effort.
Thanks so much George, as always your videos are brilliantly informative! I have not worked with copper too much, but would like to in the future, and your copper videos answer so many questions. I have to admit, when I get the notification of any new video by you in my inbox, I can't wait to get home and get to watch it. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge of metalworking!
Thx for the info. I have tons of copper. I need to anneal stuff because I want to try fold forming. Rather sooner then later. That will stick with me right through❤️🇨🇦
Another GREAT video. I love how you hammer on the threaded rod. That I can't wait to try. I use a map gas as I'm not comfortable with the oxygen, and I was told I'm not supposed to turn the can down when using. Will it explode? So I use pliers to hold up the copper to anneal. Can it be laid down ? Thank you
Thanks for the compliment. Don't think I would make it as a voice over narrator. The pros can do magical things with their voice. I only have one speed and that is slow. Can you imagine me doing a used car commercial?
Excelently made video and truly good narration! But, I still have a question: when heating a hard drawn copper pipe (3/4" type-L), to anneal it so it can be bent with a bending spring, an old plumber told me not to move the flame (of a MAP-PRO gas torch) back and forth, as he said it only was necessary to heat the pipe to annealing temperature and to keep moving the flame slowly toward the end of the section to be bent, as he said, the copper becomes annealed ans stays annealed, so I would not need to move the flame back and forth in wide sections... he said I was only wasting gas and the heat was being wasted, so he suggested to just move the flame in a slow but continuous movement form one end to the other. He also said that the annealing was best left to cool in the air, instead of dipping the part in the water, as it was not steel, but copper. whay do you think about this?
The reason I move the flame back and forth is so I don't too much heat in one place and burn a hole in the copper. 3/4" copper tubing is thicker than the sheet copper I use, so there is less chance of burning through. I prefer to air cool, but that is just a personal preference. Thanks for your question.
Thanks for the information! Any tips for bending copper lugs so they can fit on a battery terminal in a tight space. Looking to bend 4/0 lugs with 4/0 wire. Thanks for any information you can provide:)
I use a lot of steel, and many of my tools are steel. I don't water on the welding table. It really is just a personal preference. Many people do quench. Do what ever works best for you.
Quenching is quicker. If i remember correctly it will lock in the color if you are flame coloring. It also has some effect on the copper similar to tempering. If you are interested you may find more information on a site that deals with metallurgy.
is there a specific length of time or specific temperature that the copper is heated for before allowing it to cool? because I've tried heat treating copper and the hardness didn't change very much
I heat the copper till it is red hot. Constantly moving the flame around so i don't burn a hole in the copper. 25 gauge copper heats up rather fast when using the oxy.ace torch. Thicker copper, lets say 1/8" thick, takes a surprisingly long time to heat up.
This dude's voice could narrate anything and make it sound good...
I was looking for something completely different when I came across this video. I really enjoy the simple, straight forward style in which it was presented. Thanks for creating such work!
Literally just what I needed.
George, if you reading the comments even afte all this time since posting the vid, I would like to wholeheartedly thank you, you have just saved me quite a bit of money and effort.
Thanks, that answered the question I had in mind when I started Googling.
Great information on annealing and so simple in presentation. Thank you.
Lolita's Garden Thanks for mentioning "simple". It's is too easy to make these subjects complicated. I like the phrase, "keep it simple".
Thanks for viewing. Yes, I do like to keep things simple.
yes tanks
Thanks so much George, as always your videos are brilliantly informative! I have not worked with copper too much, but would like to in the future, and your copper videos answer so many questions. I have to admit, when I get the notification of any new video by you in my inbox, I can't wait to get home and get to watch it. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge of metalworking!
BlankIsBeautiful Wow, what a great compliment. thanks!
Thanks for the upload, sir.
Your voice is hypnotic!, You should seriously consider reading for audible or something.
Thanks for compliment.
Thanks sir. I'm going to attempt to make a hammered copper rangehood. This should make it easier!
Great video and explanation.. ur voice sounds like you should be narrating on the history channel or something
Thanks so much, Appreciate the compliment. I have my hands full just doing these simple narration.
Got some 5 star audible voice damn
Appreciate the comment. Complete listing of the best RUclips videos: gsegmedia.com/?page_id=4657
Thx for the info. I have tons of copper. I need to anneal stuff because I want to try fold forming. Rather sooner then later. That will stick with me right through❤️🇨🇦
Thanks for commenting. Lots of free copper videos here: gsegmedia.com/?page_id=4657
Thx, George. Enjoyed this video as usual
Richard Waldbart As always, thanks for viewing.
Thanks a bunch. I am going to anneal now!
Let me know how it's working for you.
Always good presentation. Much appreciated.
Bo Ranson Thanks for viewing. Got a couple of more ideas on copper that will be coming up shortly.
Hopefully I can keep them coming. Thanks for commenting.
Another GREAT video. I love how you hammer on the threaded rod. That I can't wait to try. I use a map gas as I'm not comfortable with the oxygen, and I was told I'm not supposed to turn the can down when using. Will it explode? So I use pliers to hold up the copper to anneal. Can it be laid down ? Thank you
Love these videos. Great tips for newbs like myself. :)
***** Thanks for watching, I'll have another one on copper in a few days.
i feel soo relaxed now . have you ever thought about becoming a professional narrator?
Thanks for the compliment. Don't think I would make it as a voice over narrator. The pros can do magical things with their voice. I only have one speed and that is slow. Can you imagine me doing a used car commercial?
Excelently made video and truly good narration! But, I still have a question: when heating a hard drawn copper pipe (3/4" type-L), to anneal it so it can be bent with a bending spring, an old plumber told me not to move the flame (of a MAP-PRO gas torch) back and forth, as he said it only was necessary to heat the pipe to annealing temperature and to keep moving the flame slowly toward the end of the section to be bent, as he said, the copper becomes annealed ans stays annealed, so I would not need to move the flame back and forth in wide sections... he said I was only wasting gas and the heat was being wasted, so he suggested to just move the flame in a slow but continuous movement form one end to the other. He also said that the annealing was best left to cool in the air, instead of dipping the part in the water, as it was not steel, but copper. whay do you think about this?
The reason I move the flame back and forth is so I don't too much heat in one place and burn a hole in the copper. 3/4" copper tubing is thicker than the sheet copper I use, so there is less chance of burning through. I prefer to air cool, but that is just a personal preference. Thanks for your question.
Thanks George. Good info well presented.
Thanks for the information! Any tips for bending copper lugs so they can fit on a battery terminal in a tight space. Looking to bend 4/0 lugs with 4/0 wire. Thanks for any information you can provide:)
Is it doable to anneal copper nut screwed tight so it does not unbolt, mounted on iron bolt e.g. turbocharger mounts?
What about fire scale? How can you get rid of that?
Why do you prefer to let it air cool as opposed to quenching?
I use a lot of steel, and many of my tools are steel. I don't water on the welding table. It really is just a personal preference. Many people do quench. Do what ever works best for you.
You said some people quench but you air cool the copper. Why quench?
Quenching is quicker. If i remember correctly it will lock in the color if you are flame coloring. It also has some effect on the copper similar to tempering. If you are interested you may find more information on a site that deals with metallurgy.
Is there a way to anneal a copper sheet that's only .015" thick somehow in oven?
I've never worked with copper that thin nor tried the oven. BUT, what I would suggest is using an electric heat gun or a very hot hair dryer.
is there a specific length of time or specific temperature that the copper is heated for before allowing it to cool? because I've tried heat treating copper and the hardness didn't change very much
I heat the copper till it is red hot. Constantly moving the flame around so i don't burn a hole in the copper. 25 gauge copper heats up rather fast when using the oxy.ace torch. Thicker copper, lets say 1/8" thick, takes a surprisingly long time to heat up.
Thank you! = )
материал медь?
b532yy материал медь? Yes
If you don't understand word "copper" in English why are you even watching this video?
Who trained you to narrate? Bob Ross?
I am not a painter, but always enjoyed watching the Bob Ross videos.