Great video. I saw a video in the past saying not to use the worm gear clamps because the other style can flex and expand as needed, but I realized how many people are using the worm gear clamps and that I should be fine as long as I don’t overtighten them and I check them for proper tightness as a part of maintenance like when I’m checking the oil level.
If it is not broken into little pieces, sometimes a cracked plastic radiator port can be repaired. Some radiators have a port diameter that is just large enough to allow a short length of 1" dia copper plumbing pipe to slip inside. Coat the two surfaces with JB Weld high temp epoxy and it's stronger than original.
I've replaced a radiator in my 2006 Nissan Sentra. The old radiator developed a crack on the top reservoir. I tried to find new spring tension clamps, and no one carried them in the size for radiator hoses. I didn't want to use the standard worm drive clamp. I finally found a store that can get constant torque clamps, and that's what I used. I only drew them down good and firm and didn't go any tighter. And I used a nut driver, which is the only thing I ever use on hose clamps. I never use a wrench or a ratchet and socket to tighten hose clamps. I experimented with the bad radiator. I put an old hose on it with a standard worm drive clamp. I drew it down firm and snug but not tight, and it did not crack the hose neck. Then, being it is a bad radiator anyway, put a ratchet and socket to it. I was cranking down on it pretty tight before it broke a half inch chunk out of the hose neck. That experiment on the bad radiator gave me a pretty good idea where the danger zone is tightening a worm drive clamp on a plastic radiator. I could have gone tighter on the constant torque clamps on the radiator I put in my car, but I didn't want to risk it. I'm confident they're tight enough to stop the hoses from slipping off, and the original spring tension clamps are only but so tight anyway.
I’m glad you found constant torque clamps! I prefer them myself, but they’re usually really hard to find in my area unless you wanna call the dealer and wait for a few days which isn’t ideal
I'm considering doing another experiment with the bad radiator on the other hose neck. That is using an inch pound torque wrench. First finding out how many inch pounds it takes to get it snug enough to where you can not pull the hose off by hand. Then finding out how many inch pounds it takes to crush the hose neck.
Thank you for posting this! A true mechanic, (like Batman) never complain about their utility belt. Furthermore, seems like ever person advocating the fear of using a worm gear clam isn’t a mechanic…go figure. God speed and good journey!
The clamp manufacturers advise around 25 inch pounds of torque in the 1-inch clamp range and about 50 inch pounds of torque in the 2-inch clamp range. They don't take much...remember that you're effectively just tightening a thick rubber gasket on a plastic part...that never needs a lot of torque.
I need to put one of those on my gas tank hose the two clamps on both sides broke and it leaks gas when I fill it up, but I can't get the clamps on unless I undo the whole clamp and try to put it back together there's just no room, it's almost impossible to get it started so I can Titan the clamp up I wish they were some kind of trick or something.
Is there any way to fix the plastic if by any chance you cracked it by tightening/loosening a lower hose? I had a stuck clamp and had to cut the clamp off and wonder if I broke the plastic. Guess I’ll find out soon when I put the new hose on and start it up 😂
If it breaks, you typically have to replace the radiator or whatever it’s attached to. I’ve have never found a good solution for that unless you use a lot of epoxy, but I wouldn’t trust it.😂
You can use these as long as you don't over torque them they aren't bad clamps people just misuse them and that creates issues otherwise they are great you don't need the oem spring style those are a hassle at times.
Thank you. I replaced hose and still having leak. From water pump side and radiator side. It’s not the water pump or a crack in radiator. Seems when it’s cold out it leaks.
@@BlackdiamondWIS Anytime you use clamps that’s how I would tighten them doesn’t matter if it’s going on plastic or metal because these claims will give out and break as well at a certain point.
Thanks. I’ll try it again. If it doesn’t work out I’ll look into getting the oem spring clamps with the constant tension. Any recommendations on which brand of those?
The only real reason why plastic radiators exist is to reduce manufacturing cost. Objectively, full metal Aluminium or Brass radiators are absolutely superior in every way except for price.
Check out video on new generation hose clamp that does not have the problems as does worm gear and spring type hose clamps...ruclips.net/video/G-lRQESr59s/видео.html
Great video. I saw a video in the past saying not to use the worm gear clamps because the other style can flex and expand as needed, but I realized how many people are using the worm gear clamps and that I should be fine as long as I don’t overtighten them and I check them for proper tightness as a part of maintenance like when I’m checking the oil level.
You are a responsible impact gun user. I don't trust shops using impacts guns to change the oil on my car.
Norma, the best clamp maker, gives specific torque specs for each type of clamps they make. The ones you are using are 27-35 inch pounds
If it is not broken into little pieces, sometimes a cracked plastic radiator port can be repaired. Some radiators have a port diameter that is just large enough to allow a short length of 1" dia copper plumbing pipe to slip inside. Coat the two surfaces with JB Weld high temp epoxy and it's stronger than original.
I've replaced a radiator in my 2006 Nissan Sentra. The old radiator developed a crack on the top reservoir.
I tried to find new spring tension clamps, and no one carried them in the size for radiator hoses. I didn't want to use the standard worm drive clamp. I finally found a store that can get constant torque clamps, and that's what I used.
I only drew them down good and firm and didn't go any tighter. And I used a nut driver, which is the only thing I ever use on hose clamps. I never use a wrench or a ratchet and socket to tighten hose clamps.
I experimented with the bad radiator. I put an old hose on it with a standard worm drive clamp. I drew it down firm and snug but not tight, and it did not crack the hose neck. Then, being it is a bad radiator anyway, put a ratchet and socket to it. I was cranking down on it pretty tight before it broke a half inch chunk out of the hose neck.
That experiment on the bad radiator gave me a pretty good idea where the danger zone is tightening a worm drive clamp on a plastic radiator. I could have gone tighter on the constant torque clamps on the radiator I put in my car, but I didn't want to risk it. I'm confident they're tight enough to stop the hoses from slipping off, and the original spring tension clamps are only but so tight anyway.
I’m glad you found constant torque clamps! I prefer them myself, but they’re usually really hard to find in my area unless you wanna call the dealer and wait for a few days which isn’t ideal
I'm considering doing another experiment with the bad radiator on the other hose neck. That is using an inch pound torque wrench. First finding out how many inch pounds it takes to get it snug enough to where you can not pull the hose off by hand. Then finding out how many inch pounds it takes to crush the hose neck.
I tighten just until I see rubber start to fill the grooves but not squirting out like I see a lot of techs do.
I use a nut driver when tightening hose clamps good hand tight only and you will be just fine
Thank you for posting this!
A true mechanic, (like Batman) never complain about their utility belt.
Furthermore, seems like ever person advocating the fear of using a worm gear clam isn’t a mechanic…go figure.
God speed and good journey!
Thank you
The clamp manufacturers advise around 25 inch pounds of torque in the 1-inch clamp range and about 50 inch pounds of torque in the 2-inch clamp range. They don't take much...remember that you're effectively just tightening a thick rubber gasket on a plastic part...that never needs a lot of torque.
Great example.
This happened to me I was using a bigger ratchet lol! Great video!
Thanks! 👍
Remember when radiator inlets were metal???
Pepperridge Farms remembers..
Good video!
I need to put one of those on my gas tank hose the two clamps on both sides broke and it leaks gas when I fill it up, but I can't get the clamps on unless I undo the whole clamp and try to put it back together there's just no room, it's almost impossible to get it started so I can Titan the clamp up I wish they were some kind of trick or something.
You can cut them off if you’re careful
@@TheEnthusiastMechanic thanks for your reply I appreciate it very cool
Is there any way to fix the plastic if by any chance you cracked it by tightening/loosening a lower hose? I had a stuck clamp and had to cut the clamp off and wonder if I broke the plastic. Guess I’ll find out soon when I put the new hose on and start it up 😂
If it breaks, you typically have to replace the radiator or whatever it’s attached to. I’ve have never found a good solution for that unless you use a lot of epoxy, but I wouldn’t trust it.😂
What clamps do you recommend then? Hard to find oem spring types
You can use these as long as you don't over torque them they aren't bad clamps people just misuse them and that creates issues otherwise they are great you don't need the oem spring style those are a hassle at times.
Thank you. I replaced hose and still having leak. From water pump side and radiator side. It’s not the water pump or a crack in radiator. Seems when it’s cold out it leaks.
@@TheEnthusiastMechanic would this method also work on the hose side connecting to the water pump? The same tighten method
@@BlackdiamondWIS Anytime you use clamps that’s how I would tighten them doesn’t matter if it’s going on plastic or metal because these claims will give out and break as well at a certain point.
Thanks. I’ll try it again. If it doesn’t work out I’ll look into getting the oem spring clamps with the constant tension. Any recommendations on which brand of those?
I wonder what a torque wrench would read?
It’s very minimal at best I would think
One manufacturer of wormdrive clamps instructs 35 to 40 _inch_ pounds for that size clamp.
The only real reason why plastic radiators exist is to reduce manufacturing cost. Objectively, full metal Aluminium or Brass radiators are absolutely superior in every way except for price.
Check out video on new generation hose clamp that does not have the problems as does worm gear and spring type hose clamps...ruclips.net/video/G-lRQESr59s/видео.html
I've seen these its similar to a fuel hose clamp they work pretty good but they haven't caught on other systems other than fuel clamps.