Translation of the Italian at the end (6:08): Moves: 100 Heel hooks: 16 Drop knees: 4 Toe hooks: 6 Knee bars: 3 Grams of chalk used: 370 Total elevation/height gain: 7 metres Let me know if it's wrong :)
Laura "Ondra" Rogora. So many similarities with Adam. The seemingly effortless and efficient climbing style with many heel hooks, long knee bar rests, the passion (and short anger when failing) and motivation. And always having fun. Maybe she will be the first one to repeat Silence :)).
Incredible confidence, tension, and footwork. I'm looking forward to seeing Laura Rogora blowing us all away for many years to come. Love seeing strong, young, comp climbers appreciating real rock.
@@themeatpopsicle he's probably saying, that it's a lot of effort to have a camera team for several days or even weeks, which films every attempt just in case of a send.
What I understood from Laura's comment: "the holds are quite good, then you get to a rest, after that it's easy, but I was nervous so I had to repeat it a few times". Aliens live among us!! Gravity on their planet must be 100x stronger...
epic tv, just a tip from a life long climber, and consumer of climbing videos-LESS EDITING AND CUTS, we like to see the full send. not a cut for every single hand hold
Is ther too much difference between this hard routes and olympic climbing since laura wasnt as dominant in competitive climbing but she is the woman succeding to climb the hardest routes
She weighs like 40KG, so ANYONE that is 5ft and weighs NOTHING has a MASSIVE advantage in climbing. All the BEST climbers weigh almost at the lower BMI. It is so much easier for people like her to become great climbers. Period. Good for her
So did she do it in one go? Or just continued from her fall points? Clipping the final clip is the "last move"? No two hands on a specific spot, or pulling yourself up?
@Andy Johnson thanks I read the description now. Nevertheless her father is called Enrico Rogora and the titles at the end indicate another name for the belayer.
The way the belayer handles his grigri is making me sick. And the fact that she climbs 9b while he's doing so does not help either. Great message indeed - if pro's do that why wouldn't I? Because people are being fucking dropped while squizing the device like that, that's why. It takes literally 30 minutes of practice to be somewhat comfortable with following the Petzl instruction and there is simply no excuse for not doing it the right way. Great send though.
I think you might have missed the fact that he uses the grigri lefthanded. Which is a special technique also visible on the petzl website. He is holding the brake rope with his left hand while squeezing the device to give rope.
@@karlderdelinckx I think you might have missed the fact that he's still using it the wrong way (aka deadly) at 4:55. It has nothing to do with Petzl recommendations. If in doubt please check out `decking at red rock` video on youtube.
You should really recheck the video a copple times to see what realy is going on. The example you give of red rock is something completely different. For the clipping he has to give 2 lengths of rope to not make her ascent not valid. Which might indeed have a possible groundfall. That’s why you see him at a certain point completely hanging in the rope as a belayer to prevent her from touching the ground. If he is keeping one finger under the grigri or not which potentially could block the device is difficult to make out from the video.
She should climb another 9b because she is super strong but this route will be downgraded! When Dani climbed it he didn’t use kneepads and know there are many new betas... no way it still 9b
Why does it seem like all of the belayers of high-level climbers are incompetent at belaying? Take a look at 4:55... one hand on the climber's strand and one hand on the Grigri. I've seen stuff like this in so many other videos too, it's ridiculous.
Because when you feed slack to the leader with a grigri it has a strong tendency to block (and you cannot afford the rope pulling on a 9b). Even Petzl suggests keeping one hand on the climber's strand and one hand on the grigri (see link below). Actually, this is why the grigri has a lip on one side: to keep your finger there. Personally I find this cumbersome and even dangerous. All the accident I witnessed or heard of where the belayer failed (3-4 in 20+ years of climbing) happened with a grigri (when the belayer instinctively squeezes the grigri with his brake hand preventing it to lock). I do appreciate that blocking when you feed slack is a common issue for many auto-locking devices. A final word of wisdom: never take important advice from the youtube comment section. www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belaying-with-the-GRIGRI?ActivityName=Rock-climbing
Also your first finger on your right hand goes under the lip, and NOT under the device which prevents gripping tie device in a sudden fall and keeping the brake assist from closing.
Great Laura's performance, horrible video. Images without aesthetic power doesn't trigger any pleasing response in the viewer . The music try to fill the emotional gap of the film The full send without editing would have been better.
A really good performance. But when I saw the pictures, the first thing I thought was that the girl was 19 years old and extremely thin. In climbing there are a lot of underweight athletes, but also the opposite. The real question was, would she climb better if she had a little more muscle mass? And this question doesn't minimize her good performance! If someone goes out in public, he must expect questions.
Huge mistake to let epictv make the video, money must have been involved. Very impressive climbing, but can not enjoy it because the vid quality/editing/taste of editor is just utterly trash. Seek and destroy all sponsors who promote this kind of stuff
Wow Brava! Please don't forget to take care of your health, from what I see you could use a few more colories in your body... but yeah, who I am to give you nutrition advice...
I think as long as she is not trying to get pregnant it's fine. These world class climbers just can't afford to weigh more. Ofcourse it's not healthy but thats the price they are willing to pay to be the best of the best.
@@VladimirOhYeah There is without a doubt a crossover point where weight going down and send grade going up cross. Where that is is the question. Not sure how you'd also account for body fat in that metric as well, but it would obviously be a large contributing factor to the weight.
@@jlehm It's probably more or less self balancing. Climbing is a fairly functional sport, so your body would probably produce just as much muscle tissue as you need. Sure you could try tweaking the fat content of your body down, but I doubt that a good athlete would push it to the limit. Fat also serves a protective purpose, so it would be pretty dumb for a climber to risk an injury, just to get a little weight advantage.
What does that even mean!? Shes climbing 9b, do you actually think that would be possible if she had an eating disorder? And if you're 'joking' it's even more toxic. Pull your head in, congratulate her on the send, and don't be an asshole to try shame her body or people with serious and debilitating disorders.
I wonder if you deserve to be alive after making such comment. Probably you don't, but then again it must be hard to know you gotta live with yourself until the day you die.
I'm not shaming her and I do find her ascent really impressive. That does not change the fact that she is clearly underweight. Her face is down right skeletal and her thighs and glutes are beyond undersized. If you all think eating disorders aren't extremely prevalent among top level athletes, you're disillusion. I honestly posit the question of would she send even harder if she didn't have an eating disorder.
Hey guys, don't forget to switch on subtitles (if you can't understand Italian :D) enjoy!
Translation of the Italian at the end (6:08):
Moves: 100
Heel hooks: 16
Drop knees: 4
Toe hooks: 6
Knee bars: 3
Grams of chalk used: 370
Total elevation/height gain: 7 metres
Let me know if it's wrong :)
Laura "Ondra" Rogora. So many similarities with Adam. The seemingly effortless and efficient climbing style with many heel hooks, long knee bar rests, the passion (and short anger when failing) and motivation. And always having fun. Maybe she will be the first one to repeat Silence :)).
Unfortunately Silence and many other difficult routes are physically impossible for her bc of her size, she's only 4'10"
And the insane flexibility with drop knees!
tesina21 was it the same for the first free ascent of the Nose, isn’t it? 😉
dude her raging after falling is really reminiscent of ondra. like body language and everything.
@@tesina21 she sent Erebor by yeeting off fingernail holds that stef couldn't do. she'd figure it out.
Incredible confidence, tension, and footwork. I'm looking forward to seeing Laura Rogora blowing us all away for many years to come. Love seeing strong, young, comp climbers appreciating real rock.
she isnt the only one, thats the new generation of climber. There will be a lot of kids who climb that strong
I love her fathers reactions when she falls. He just looks away, unimpressed of her swearing and crying :D
It's a shame they don't show the full send without editing
they probably don't have it idiot
@@viktorlnt7835 are you saying she didn't send?
@@themeatpopsicle he's probably saying, that it's a lot of effort to have a camera team for several days or even weeks, which films every attempt just in case of a send.
@@viktorlnt7835 blimey Victor that's a bit harsh!
@@themeatpopsicle wtf everything needs to be on film now? So there was no climbing like 20 years ago?
She's such an incredible climber. She crushed the lead world cup at Briancon
Looks like a brutal route, what a sick send!
I was today years old when I heard about her and I think she’s going to be on the radar for a longgggggg time
Such an interesting route! It's hard to read and very endurance demanding.
What I understood from Laura's comment: "the holds are quite good, then you get to a rest, after that it's easy, but I was nervous so I had to repeat it a few times". Aliens live among us!! Gravity on their planet must be 100x stronger...
Gravity doesn't affect a person who weighs 70 pounds as much as somebody who weighs a Buck 80
@@barreldreamz7852 hahahahaha
@@barreldreamz7852 this comment is pathetic. U can climb 8b even if you do have some weight. Just look at martin stranik.
The ‘no fan’ beta makes it more impressive
ruclips.net/video/ul6CkmmDsjw/видео.html
XD
legit came here just for this comment.
epic tv, just a tip from a life long climber, and consumer of climbing videos-LESS EDITING AND CUTS, we like to see the full send. not a cut for every single hand hold
these upside down routes à la Ondra are crazy! congrats to her for attaining such level and power in this crazy sport
miticaaa lauretta!!!!! brava continua cosi!!!! italian power
Looks extremely hard to read. Lots of potential holds which might or might not be good.
Goosebumps! Well done, girl!
The first version with swearing and crying, now edited out, was much better
Agreed!
A little great and powerful Italian girl ... Brava Laura! Dani Andrara should be happy 😉
absolutely nuts. great work.
jaw dropping????? holy smokes.
Great climb! Good job.
That's incredible. Brilliant idea to clip the rope on after the long bouldering start
I think most people who climbed the route did it.
@@jonathanschmidt1668 Yeah mitdbo in his ascent did the same.
Did you change the music on this video?
😳asta donde puede llegar esta máquina💪🙌
Grandissima Laura!
Awesome!
This little, italian and brave girl! 🔥🔥🔥
Wow she makes it looks easy. insanely strong!
I think Dave Graham is working that route too atm
Is ther too much difference between this hard routes and olympic climbing since laura wasnt as dominant in competitive climbing but she is the woman succeding to climb the hardest routes
Translation on the ending stats screen?
I can guess some like 370 grams of chalk used 😉 but not all
Grande Laura! Onestamente mi pare che ci fosse del gran margine! prossimo 9b+?! complimenti
Please remove the awful music and the quick cuts and show the actual climbing!
Holly fuck. Magnus did this one, which is literally a mountain of muscles. Bravissima!
She weighs like 40KG, so ANYONE that is 5ft and weighs NOTHING has a MASSIVE advantage in climbing. All the BEST climbers weigh almost at the lower BMI. It is so much easier for people like her to become great climbers. Period. Good for her
Bravissima!!!!!
So did she do it in one go? Or just continued from her fall points? Clipping the final clip is the "last move"? No two hands on a specific spot, or pulling yourself up?
to count as send she had to do it in one go withou falling. and yes when u clip its finished
Che dire …. Uno guarda e sta muto in ammirazione …. In silenziosa ammirazione … ❤
My gym recreated this problem. Pretty stiff Pink V2 in the corner not for the faint of heart. Got it on the third try.
When she falls going into the rest - how do you say "wobbler" in Italian? :)
👍👍👍
This was fucking amazing.
Anyone know who the belayer was? I'm kind of assuming it was her dad.
@Andy Johnson yet he has a different surname
@Andy Johnson thanks I read the description now. Nevertheless her father is called Enrico Rogora and the titles at the end indicate another name for the belayer.
Titles are right, description is not accurate
The way the belayer handles his grigri is making me sick. And the fact that she climbs 9b while he's doing so does not help either. Great message indeed - if pro's do that why wouldn't I? Because people are being fucking dropped while squizing the device like that, that's why. It takes literally 30 minutes of practice to be somewhat comfortable with following the Petzl instruction and there is simply no excuse for not doing it the right way.
Great send though.
I think you might have missed the fact that he uses the grigri lefthanded. Which is a special technique also visible on the petzl website. He is holding the brake rope with his left hand while squeezing the device to give rope.
@@karlderdelinckx I think you might have missed the fact that he's still using it the wrong way (aka deadly) at 4:55. It has nothing to do with Petzl recommendations. If in doubt please check out `decking at red rock` video on youtube.
You should really recheck the video a copple times to see what realy is going on. The example you give of red rock is something completely different.
For the clipping he has to give 2 lengths of rope to not make her ascent not valid. Which might indeed have a possible groundfall. That’s why you see him at a certain point completely hanging in the rope as a belayer to prevent her from touching the ground.
If he is keeping one finger under the grigri or not which potentially could block the device is difficult to make out from the video.
She should climb another 9b because she is super strong but this route will be downgraded! When Dani climbed it he didn’t use kneepads and know there are many new betas... no way it still 9b
Not using knee pads doesn't make the route a lower grade though.
The name of the route is a ridiculus :D
Nice
That looked pretty easy. I bet I could do that, too.
But seriously,
awesome achievement. Congrats to Ms Rogora.
Why does it seem like all of the belayers of high-level climbers are incompetent at belaying? Take a look at 4:55... one hand on the climber's strand and one hand on the Grigri. I've seen stuff like this in so many other videos too, it's ridiculous.
Because when you feed slack to the leader with a grigri it has a strong tendency to block (and you cannot afford the rope pulling on a 9b). Even Petzl suggests keeping one hand on the climber's strand and one hand on the grigri (see link below). Actually, this is why the grigri has a lip on one side: to keep your finger there. Personally I find this cumbersome and even dangerous. All the accident I witnessed or heard of where the belayer failed (3-4 in 20+ years of climbing) happened with a grigri (when the belayer instinctively squeezes the grigri with his brake hand preventing it to lock). I do appreciate that blocking when you feed slack is a common issue for many auto-locking devices. A final word of wisdom: never take important advice from the youtube comment section.
www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belaying-with-the-GRIGRI?ActivityName=Rock-climbing
Yeah but he’s holding it with the wrong hand and feeding rope with his right.
Also your first finger on your right hand goes under the lip, and NOT under the device which prevents gripping tie device in a sudden fall and keeping the brake assist from closing.
And it’s not an “auto-locking” device. It’s an assisted braking device. :)
m.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/VIDEO---Specific-left-handed-technique?ProductName=GRIGRI
He is left handed.
Forte ragazza 💪🏼
What's the four letter word I'm looking for? Oh right - SICK!!!!!
I need subtitles! This is so awesome! And super funny to see her loosing her shit Ondra-style when she falls off!
Go to the settings tab and turn on english captions.
@@damiensmith8351 True - they just don't work super well in my experience.
@@shokland that depends on if they are automated or translated... here they are translated proper subs
@@mattiasgonczi Ok - Thanks!
Ok
Come si fa a metter il pollice all'ingiù ad una cosa fenomenale come questa?
Ma quanto rosica la gente??
Actually this could be the first 9b to be freesoloed. 😍
Great Laura's performance, horrible video.
Images without aesthetic power doesn't trigger any pleasing response in the viewer
.
The music try to fill the emotional gap of the film
The full send without editing would have been better.
It triggered a lot here!!😂
Totally agreed
A really good performance.
But when I saw the pictures, the first thing I thought was that the girl was 19 years old and extremely thin.
In climbing there are a lot of underweight athletes, but also the opposite.
The real question was, would she climb better if she had a little more muscle mass?
And this question doesn't minimize her good performance!
If someone goes out in public, he must expect questions.
No, you should not have to expect questions about your look and weight from random dudes not atall involved in making you training preparations.
She's going to be absolutely gorgeous
She's a BEAUTIFUL BEAST!!!!@
Huge mistake to let epictv make the video, money must have been involved. Very impressive climbing, but can not enjoy it because the vid quality/editing/taste of editor is just utterly trash. Seek and destroy all sponsors who promote this kind of stuff
Second
Wow Brava!
Please don't forget to take care of your health, from what I see you could use a few more colories in your body... but yeah, who I am to give you nutrition advice...
I think as long as she is not trying to get pregnant it's fine. These world class climbers just can't afford to weigh more. Ofcourse it's not healthy but thats the price they are willing to pay to be the best of the best.
Yeah you have no idea what you're talking about 😂 some body types can eat all the food they want and are still skin and bones.
It's probably just her body type. Try sending a 9b with a calorie deficit.
@@VladimirOhYeah There is without a doubt a crossover point where weight going down and send grade going up cross. Where that is is the question. Not sure how you'd also account for body fat in that metric as well, but it would obviously be a large contributing factor to the weight.
@@jlehm It's probably more or less self balancing. Climbing is a fairly functional sport, so your body would probably produce just as much muscle tissue as you need. Sure you could try tweaking the fat content of your body down, but I doubt that a good athlete would push it to the limit. Fat also serves a protective purpose, so it would be pretty dumb for a climber to risk an injury, just to get a little weight advantage.
I wonder if she would climb even stronger if she didn't have an eating disorder?
What does that even mean!? Shes climbing 9b, do you actually think that would be possible if she had an eating disorder? And if you're 'joking' it's even more toxic. Pull your head in, congratulate her on the send, and don't be an asshole to try shame her body or people with serious and debilitating disorders.
what is that allegation even?
I wonder if you deserve to be alive after making such comment. Probably you don't, but then again it must be hard to know you gotta live with yourself until the day you die.
jlehm - i bet you wonder all kinds of dumb crap. no need to share it
I'm not shaming her and I do find her ascent really impressive.
That does not change the fact that she is clearly underweight. Her face is down right skeletal and her thighs and glutes are beyond undersized. If you all think eating disorders aren't extremely prevalent among top level athletes, you're disillusion.
I honestly posit the question of would she send even harder if she didn't have an eating disorder.