The timing and thoroughness of this video couldn't be better as my new Neptune 4 Plus just arrived yesterday and I plan to work on getting it assembled tonight and work on tuning it over the weekend! Thanks for so much information and how well it was presented here!
@@WildRoseBuilds I've tried to start doing some of the OrcaSlicer calibration tests and I can't even get the first Flow Rate to work. It looks like it starts to draw the outline of the shape (rather ugly honestly) then when it starts to fill in the piece it goes through the motion but no filament seems to be coming out to lay down inside the shape. I'm not sure what the issue is. My test prints came out fairly well before trying the calibration. lol Update: I missed the decimal point in the Flow Rate. The poor print head was trying to force 100 through that nozzle. That's been corrected. Now I think I'm having z offset issues because I'm having plat adhesion issues. I'm going to start with that tomorrow and see how it goes. Final Update: All squared away. Thanks again for the awesome video. Things looking good on my end. I still can't seem to fully print the double helix as it starts to unravel near the top of it. I'm trying an actual print that is just as tall if not a bit taller now and will see how it goes.
@@WildRoseBuildshey bro I been praying for some more Neptune 4 videos from you. You really helped me dip my toes into klipper unfortunately I haven't really gotten too much further than that lol. Any chance you could make a part 2 to this video? Right now hardware wise im pretty good, but my klipper game needs much work. ruclips.net/video/mCcP8dffwLk/видео.htmlsi=hgFjE50Lo0-rhzDH
@@WildRoseBuilds Again, this guide was a tremendous help getting my new printer up and running. I'm about to switch from PLA to PETG. Would following this same routine make sense? I know the temps are changed from the PLA I was using to the ranged for the PETG I'm using. Just wasn't sure if it makes sense to follow these same steps or not.
One off best videos what i have seen about tuning! Not too long and not too short, and not too complicated to understand all the calculation! Nice! Thumbs up from me!
I think it means a lot when I tell you that we have been waiting for a long time for you to make a video showing how you configure your machines to obtain results as good as your videos. A big hug and greetings.
Watched the whole thing and now will have to watch it again to follow along with these superb steps. Great video, super clear and I appreciate the before and after comparisons.
Thank you for this video. I love and support Canadian content. This has helped me setup a Amazon return of a N4 Max, sold as open box for $299.99 CAD everything inside was loose and warped, dropped . I put it together and it printed garbage, then after watching this I fixed, updates, calibrated and have done more, final results were night and day,
Neptune 4 max here. I was just looking to calibrate all the stuff again properly now. After 2 weeks of playing with it. It's pretty accurate right out of the box but i'm now dealing with some blobs and zits on large arcs. I learned a lot and also will try the orca slicer now. Thanks :D
Thank you so much for your neptune 4 videos, all of them have been helpful for neptune and klipper noobs. is there any chance you could make a part 2 for your first video "How to Tune The Elegoo Neptune 4 Klipper 3D Printer for Better Print Quality (Step-by-Step Guide)"?? Ive been trying to learn more about klipper and add more stuff to it like different macros, screw tilt adjust, and probe calibrate so im not constantly messing with z offset. ive suggested that video to a lot of people on reddit and it's been a lifesaver for us klipper noobs but Id love to learn more and your teaching style is so easy to follow. Plus there's so much to learn on the klipper3d website but I understand not everything is compatible with the elegoo version of klipper so Im mainly wondering about what other cool stuff that can be done with Anyway Im subbed so im praying you end up making a part 2. The cool things to print videos are another of my favs not
Glad these videos help! A lot of the klipper site stuff SHOULD work for these printers, but yes a Part 2 with some more tips and tricks sounds like a great idea. thanks for the recommendation! :)
An excellent video, I shall definitely earmark this as my 'go-to reference guide', as being new to the world of 3D printing, I'm sure I'll make use of it many times in the foreseeable future, thank you.
Thank you. I watched this 3 times. fantastic step by step walk through and great explanation of what you are fixing/improving. Although I didn't understand somethings, i will have to watch it a couple more times to get the detail i missed. I have a new Neptune 4 plus arriving in two days so will see how it all goes. Thanks again and I'm a new subscriber after watching several of your videos.
Thanks so much, I recently bought a Neptune 4 Pro printer and printed the tests that came on the flash drive without any problems, but after that, everything changed. I'll follow your tutorial and see if I can get good prints using the Orca Slicer. Thanks
Thank you for taking the time to create this video. The level of detail and pace are just right. One question, though. In the flow rate calibration, did you (or not) update the Flow Ratio between the first and second pass? I didn't see you do that, so I'm assuming not. I only ask because the Orca Slicer wiki on Calibration does update the rate after the first pass (though they don't do it in the config file). Thanks again. edit: Sorry, upon replay, I just noticed you said "I'll leave my flow rate at 1 and start the next test".
One of the best how to's on YT. Cant thank you enough for just getting me started. Only thing I've noticed is i don't have the same options as you do since I've upgraded to the latest Neptune 4 Pro firmware's. Anyway you could do an updated tutorial? Anyway. can't thank you enough. Got my first print running as we speak!! GGs!
I just got my Neptune 4 Plus today! Already finished the test filament inside and I'm waiting for the new filaments to arrive. I will try these thank you! Also, It might be a good idea to heat the bed even before the manual leveling
Hey so I’ve been doing the flow rate calibration like you showed it. However I just discovered that we should also do the calculation on the first pass, I know in your case you pick 0 so it would end up with the same number. But I just saw that for example the first pass the you are between 5 and 0 for example you would pick the overexteusion one, do the calculation, then fine tune it with the second pass, which justifies why the second pass is only negative numbers plus 0. Just thought it was worth to mention that in your case there was no need for a calculation on pass one however it should be done.
Love this guide. Couple of questions/ clarifications. 1) for the pressure advance, shoudl you multiple by .002 or .02? because you put in .046, but in the calculator you put in .02 to get you .46. 2) Should you ignore the 12 non-manifold edges when you print the temperature tower? I am assuming yes cause thats what it looks like you do, but may want to let people know. 3) Is there a reason why you setup the configurations in the printer.cfg vs putting the changes directly in orca slicer?
I actually waited til this weekend (received my brand new Neptune 4 Max back in Nov 23'.) Decided to wait for upgraded firmware and components (Linear Rails X/Y/Z and upgraded Hotend "MicroSwiss Flowtech") Couldn't be happier and going thru this tuning will make it a breeze to get thru my 3 Main Filament choices (PLA+/PETG/PET-CF). This testing also pointed out a few flaws in my install so far (such as un-greased linear rails causing massive X-axis jumps), all of which a bit of grease/oil smoothed out. Can't wait to get back into this though, my Ender 3V2 will also likely get the treatment as I transition that machine to Linear Rails and Orcaslicer.
Be careful setting your Flow Ratio to 1! (11:09) All my Calibration Prints failed because of dragging, i set it back to 0.98 and all my issues went away!
@WildRoseBuilds I couldnt even print the Flow Calibration once without all the infills getting ripped apart, tried changing everything and no hope, changed it back to default 0.98 and right now it is printing without issues, after trying for 2 hours! In my case i cant go above 0.98!
Thanks for this video. This is my first printer. I purchased it because my son was begging for this. Now we cant seem to print anything but the samples that come on the usb. I am going to go step by step tomorrow and hopefully this eorks out. Thanks again.
Update. Your walkthrough was very helpful and I was able to get my first print. I still have some tuning but I would still be nowhere without this tutorial. Thanks again.
Hey there, I picked up one of these used the other day (first 3D printer ever) and had a few quality issues with my first test prints. I found your guide and dove in, and found several of the wheel nuts on the bottom loose and tightened them up, went through the calibration several times and went to do the first "flow test" print. The printer warms up, goes to the top of the print bed and prints the test line, then goes to the middle and 'starts' printing but now immediately just starts to gum up on the nozzle and never puts anything down on the build plate. I tried 2 different types of filament and leveling the plate a few more times but the exact same thing happens every time now. Any tips? Thanks!
Very nice and detailed video although I prefer the way described by Klippe itself for pressure advance tuning (with the Square tower) By the way, do you print with Z-Hop too or not? And when you print with supports, do you pick Tree supports? Maybe a video about “preparing” a print and choosing whether you should use supports or not, Z Hop or not and Infill percentage might be interesting!
Great content I thank you. Question: @14:40 you multiply the value at which the corner is sharpest by the step value, but when I print the step value is 0.16, default is 0.2. If i did that number it would be way too large. What is the hicup here?
@WildRoseBuilds - you changed all Settings in the CFG File, but what if i have multiple Filaments (with different specs) do i change the Settings in the Filament Options or still in the CFG of the printer?
Extrusion rate / rotation distance should hold up pretty well across different materials. The only thing I ever change in my cfg is pid but I have all my different temperatures commented out and can switch them easily. There’s probably a better way 🤷🏼♂️
For the pressure_advance setting, did you intentionally move the decimal one point over, you multiplied 0.02 * 23 = 0.46 but then updated the setting to 0.046?
Excellent video! I just wish the printers didn’t need all this minute fine turning it really puts me off even trying. But I will attempt to follow your video and keep my fingers crossed 😅🤞
14:19 My print looks consistent (Honestly great..) the whole way through.. I used your command from you other video before printing - Run this command first - SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT SQUARE_CORNER_VELOCITY=1 ACCEL=500 Then this command - TUNING_TOWER COMMAND=SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE PARAMETER=ADVANCE START=0 FACTOR=.005 Perhaps that was why? Should I even worry about this?
I have been printing on my Elegoo Neptune plus 4 for about a year now, you showed me some things I never knew, sadly I have been using the manufacture suggested Cura slicer this whole time :(
When i run the retraction calibration, my printer starts to begin heating up the nozzle and bed, but shortly after, it resets the print head position and says, "System is currently starting, please wait". It never runs the calibration. All of the other calibration tests work fine.. any ideas what's going on?
Yes! Things like ambient temperature, filament type, and extruder idler pressure are all different even on the same machines and play a role in flow rate.
A really useful video, thanks. But despite what your title says the Neptune 4 Pro doesn't have the option for input shape tuning or PID calibration in it's advanced setting menu. As far as I'm aware this model doesn't ship with the accelerometer required to achieve the former anyway. Now if you could upload a video showing how this could be achieved with the 4 Pro (maybe using a USB accelerometer), that would be most appreciated.
Hey thanks for the heads up on this, I didn’t realize I had put the pro in the title, I’ll remove that. For the pro you can read the klipper documentation and follow their steps to do a manual resonance calibration test print with no need for an accelerometer. There’s also a command that can be issued through the fluid interface in the console to tune pid. Hope that helps!
I only print pla on my Neptune machines so that’s all I tune them for. You can absolutely tune for other materials and just save them under different profiles. There’s also a filament override menu that can change printer settings like retraction and speed for whichever filament profile you have selected!
Yes elegoo pla! I have had great results with it and they’re starting to make some cool silk and bicolor filaments as well that print good. For input shaping on the 4 I’d look into a usb accelerometer, I think big tree tech makes one for very cheap! You can also visit the klipper website where they document a manual tuning test for resonance compensation. Thanks for watching!
For elegoo neither 4 plus i changed the flow rate as you told in the printer.cfg but after that i was not able get the prints to stick to the buildplate at all what should I do?
Okay, so it looks like you are still responding to comments on here, so hopefully you can help me. I followed your steps and did notice z axis wheel was not making contact. I have had lots of failed supports that have been just getting knocked off. I thought, it must be my retraction / zhop, so i adjusted and doubled its value. No luck. I figured it was the bed, so i enabled professional leveling and went through the whole 121 points. Tried a calibration test, no luck.. it was stringy, would peel or would just blob in some areas, roll around and I would have to stop the print. It was as if no matter what, my leveling did nothing. So, I found this video, fixed my rail as mentioned before and followed your steps. I have an N4 pro, so no cool menus or accelerometer. I skipped this part, so perhaps that's my issue, but i went to do my flow rate test. I couldn't even get most of one square down. I re-leveled, tried again, no dice. I started the print, went into settings and cranked my flow rate to 110.. the print got better, but still failed. I went to 120 and that worked fairly well, still failed on block 4. How are you making it through all the blocks A, and B how high of flow rate should I go? I am using creality hyper PLA. It sits in a dryer and afaict everything else has been adjusted accordingly. I can print a benchy just fine. (it looks pretty good, but not quite as nice as yours) Once I go to print anything remotely technical and not dead center, I get horrible results. Should I be doing all your math before I worry about my flow rate?? Any help would be much appreciated. Also, this video and your other are so well done, will most def be subbing. Thank you for your wonderful content, your pace is perfect, your shots are amazing, the details you show for what over extrusion and under extrusion look like were super helpful for identifying.. all of it was amazing. Well done!
Please help! I recently bought the Neptune 4 Pro and have just been following this setup guide. I seem to be missing the Input shaping & PID calibration in the Advanced settings menu. The firmware for the printer and screen are up to date. Can anyone advise?
The 4 pro doesn’t have the built in accelerometer. The pid can be tuned with a command but there isn’t a menu prompt for it. I would dig into klipper site tutorials. There’s tutorials there to manually tune all this via commands even the resonance without the accelerometer. I should have clarified that in the video sorry!!
@WildRoseBuilds No worries! Thanks for the advice. I actually found the pressure advance tuning once I'd accessed Klipper, the printer is running sweet 👌
i also adjusted the z axes rail. it was with offset. i notice it when i could see that one wheel was without contact. and spin freely. so i hold one of the z motors and spin the other a few clicks (belt clicks) that way i could make sure that all the wheels are with good contact on the rail. this is super important. without this step. the hole rail is moving. i stoped doing this when i see that there are no free wheels. on both sides
I just got my Neptune 4 Pro. I see that I'm missing the Input shaper and Nozzle PID Calibration under Advanced settings. I've updated my firmware. Could it be that the 4 Pro lacks these features?
My neptune 4 PRO has software version 1.1.2.41 and the motors are 1.2A I want to upgrade and formatted a few memory sticks with FAT32 and copied the files from fixpack to the root of memory stick. I inserted the stick and started the machine nothing happened when I go to setting and about machine I pressed the up arrow at the bottom of machine and message shows update failed put all files in the root of the stick {which I did} I tried 3 different memory sticks including the one supplied with the machine when I directly use the firmware update file instead of the FIXpack it is the same. Your video is perfect to upgrade my Printer thank you
@@mariuspaulbayertz8783 Hi Guys, waiting for my PRO to be delivered next week. Obviously do not know the firmware version yet, but, did you guys sort this out? Thanks heaps. Eddie
I don't have Input Shaper or Nozzle PID calibration in my advanced settings on my Neptune 4 Pro. I'm running V1.1.3.1 - 2024.07.23. Anyone know if Elegoo took away these settings or are they not an option on the 4 Pro?
what should i do if mine doesnt even finish printing past the first temperature test. it just came unstuck from the plate after getting to the top of 230 PLA
Yeah did all the tests and leveling and cleaned the bed even went to do the retraction tuning test and it printed that perfectly. I'll try a bigger brim. Thank you
question : My print head now comes off the front of the bed when doing an auto level this happend only after I had a support fall off and got behing the bed belt and caused a layer shift.. how do I reset so the print head returns to its normal position.. neptune 4 max
Is there a way to undo any of the changes to the cfd? I don't remember what the values were before making the changes and now I every print I send to the printer via orca fails during the first layer. When I load the same print through cura they print fine. I can't find the difference between the two slicer so I'd like to start fresh on orca. What the best way to get it back to factory settings?
I had the same issue. Don’t know if you were using glue stick or not but I wasn’t and started using the glue stick and havnt had a problem since. But there should be a default reset in there somewhere but I’m not sure. I never looked to see if there was or not
I like V2, but would prefer it if the unit recessed into the saucer to maintain a flush look when not operating. Imagine a sliding door, or potentially and iris that open with the turret popping up.
I found your torture helix. What would help newbies like me is if you could provide the links for the tests that you run, other than those included in the slicer. I have the boat and your helix; not sure which cube you used. Thanks for your work!
when you started retraction tower didnt you just discard settings made by temperature tower ? therefore the retraction tower was printed at wrong temperature ?
If you have any questions......YES!.....YES I HAVE !!! How do you calibrate "BLOB OF DEATH" away.....i've had that twice now.......do you have a fix for that ?? Suddenly my prints stop sticking to the plate.....i've tried several cleaning solutions....like you and IPA and nothing works. ONLY thing i got to work is if i print first layer at 20mm/s or lower.....only the first layer....then it sticks and i can print fast on top of that.....but why doesn't it stick at standard speed??
Used the exact same printer with teh same settings and filament. Done all the steps as mentioned and i'm having trouble with the 1st pass flow test. It clears the nozzle and then proceeds to make the outline but once it starts to make the first sample it spews filament everywhere and clog up. I tried relevelling and calibrating 3 times and it wont sort it. I have printed things before this and it worked fine. I was going ot dial in my settings using this video but it is not working. please help
Sounds like your flow rate might be improperly set? Double check in your settings that it’s at 1.0. Some slicers use a percentage for flow but orca slicer uses a whole number.
I think I have gone through 3 iterations of the guide but in the end I am still having issues with my prints, mostly i think extrusion and pressure issues because i don't get a lot of stringin on any calibration print.
Wonderful tunung guide! A little question - default Orca flowrate is set to 0.98 for N4Pro, should I always keep it at 1.00 after the flowrate calibration and editing printer.cfg?
3D printing newb here, and feel like a pro after watching this. Thanks for the details a logical progression of tuning!
This has to be the best 3d printer setup video I've seen. Especially good to help with those of switching to Orca from Cura.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
The timing and thoroughness of this video couldn't be better as my new Neptune 4 Plus just arrived yesterday and I plan to work on getting it assembled tonight and work on tuning it over the weekend! Thanks for so much information and how well it was presented here!
Oh perfect! Let me know if you have any issues during tuning! Good luck
@@WildRoseBuilds I've got two of the 3 initial test prints you used. What is the name or where do I find the middle one with the top layer info?
@@WildRoseBuilds I've tried to start doing some of the OrcaSlicer calibration tests and I can't even get the first Flow Rate to work. It looks like it starts to draw the outline of the shape (rather ugly honestly) then when it starts to fill in the piece it goes through the motion but no filament seems to be coming out to lay down inside the shape. I'm not sure what the issue is. My test prints came out fairly well before trying the calibration. lol
Update: I missed the decimal point in the Flow Rate. The poor print head was trying to force 100 through that nozzle. That's been corrected. Now I think I'm having z offset issues because I'm having plat adhesion issues. I'm going to start with that tomorrow and see how it goes.
Final Update: All squared away. Thanks again for the awesome video. Things looking good on my end. I still can't seem to fully print the double helix as it starts to unravel near the top of it. I'm trying an actual print that is just as tall if not a bit taller now and will see how it goes.
@@WildRoseBuildshey bro I been praying for some more Neptune 4 videos from you.
You really helped me dip my toes into klipper unfortunately I haven't really gotten too much further than that lol.
Any chance you could make a part 2 to this video? Right now hardware wise im pretty good, but my klipper game needs much work.
ruclips.net/video/mCcP8dffwLk/видео.htmlsi=hgFjE50Lo0-rhzDH
@@WildRoseBuilds Again, this guide was a tremendous help getting my new printer up and running. I'm about to switch from PLA to PETG. Would following this same routine make sense? I know the temps are changed from the PLA I was using to the ranged for the PETG I'm using. Just wasn't sure if it makes sense to follow these same steps or not.
Anyone who watches this video will subscribe. Amazing, simple instructions. Easy to follow for us newbies. Well done.
Finally a superb video that preps you once you get your neptune from start to finish, love it!
One off best videos what i have seen about tuning! Not too long and not too short, and not too complicated to understand all the calculation! Nice! Thumbs up from me!
I think it means a lot when I tell you that we have been waiting for a long time for you to make a video showing how you configure your machines to obtain results as good as your videos. A big hug and greetings.
I appreciate that! Thanks for waiting patiently and for watching! 🙋🏼♂️
Watched the whole thing and now will have to watch it again to follow along with these superb steps. Great video, super clear and I appreciate the before and after comparisons.
Thank you for this video. I love and support Canadian content. This has helped me setup a Amazon return of a N4 Max, sold as open box for $299.99 CAD everything inside was loose and warped, dropped . I put it together and it printed garbage, then after watching this I fixed, updates, calibrated and have done more, final results were night and day,
Glad to here that this helped!! thanks for watching and supporting :)
Neptune 4 max here.
I was just looking to calibrate all the stuff again properly now. After 2 weeks of playing with it.
It's pretty accurate right out of the box but i'm now dealing with some blobs and zits on large arcs.
I learned a lot and also will try the orca slicer now. Thanks :D
Agreed. Neptune 4 Max been printing on for less than a week. Went thru all of this today and the settings were super close to ideal out of the box.
I am getting blobs as well with the 4 max, did this video help with it
Now man how s going?
HOLY MOLY! this is amazing! Best video to help newbies like me with FDM Printers! Thank so mutch!
Glad it was helpful!
Very well explained. I was pulling my hair out with the Neptune Plus and now I feel way more confident.
Thank you!
Thank you so much for your neptune 4 videos, all of them have been helpful for neptune and klipper noobs.
is there any chance you could make a part 2 for your first video "How to Tune The Elegoo Neptune 4 Klipper 3D Printer for Better Print Quality (Step-by-Step Guide)"?? Ive been trying to learn more about klipper and add more stuff to it like different macros, screw tilt adjust, and probe calibrate so im not constantly messing with z offset.
ive suggested that video to a lot of people on reddit and it's been a lifesaver for us klipper noobs but Id love to learn more and your teaching style is so easy to follow. Plus there's so much to learn on the klipper3d website but I understand not everything is compatible with the elegoo version of klipper so Im mainly wondering about what other cool stuff that can be done with
Anyway Im subbed so im praying you end up making a part 2. The cool things to print videos are another of my favs not
Glad these videos help! A lot of the klipper site stuff SHOULD work for these printers, but yes a Part 2 with some more tips and tricks sounds like a great idea. thanks for the recommendation! :)
perfect guide, all set up in a matter of hours, thank you
Glad you found it helpful!
@@WildRoseBuildshow often should this process be performed?
Elegoo should be paying you for this video 😁 😁 excellent information.
An excellent video, I shall definitely earmark this as my 'go-to reference guide', as being new to the world of 3D printing, I'm sure I'll make use of it many times in the foreseeable future, thank you.
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
ty very much , best neptune tuning tutorial on the internet !!
Thank you. I watched this 3 times. fantastic step by step walk through and great explanation of what you are fixing/improving. Although I didn't understand somethings, i will have to watch it a couple more times to get the detail i missed. I have a new Neptune 4 plus arriving in two days so will see how it all goes. Thanks again and I'm a new subscriber after watching several of your videos.
Thanks! I was literally planning on doing this tonight but didn't know what order to run the Orca Slicer calibrations. Now I know!
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much, I recently bought a Neptune 4 Pro printer and printed the tests that came on the flash drive without any problems, but after that, everything changed. I'll follow your tutorial and see if I can get good prints using the Orca Slicer. Thanks
Perfect timing I was just about to tune my Neptune 4 Plus! Thanks man!!!
No problem!! Let me know how your tuning goes!
Wow ! thanks, i got my first 3d printer today, neptune 4 plus. This video is for me ❤❤😍😍
Thank you for taking the time to create this video. The level of detail and pace are just right.
One question, though. In the flow rate calibration, did you (or not) update the Flow Ratio between the first and second pass? I didn't see you do that, so I'm assuming not. I only ask because the Orca Slicer wiki on Calibration does update the rate after the first pass (though they don't do it in the config file). Thanks again.
edit: Sorry, upon replay, I just noticed you said "I'll leave my flow rate at 1 and start the next test".
I like the step wise approach, this has been very helpful!
This is exactly what I needed! It's so much more than just leveling and this was so useful! Subbed.
ill be using this video for reference as my new Neptune 4 plus just arrived.
i love my 4 plus! let me know if you run into any issues!
One of the best how to's on YT. Cant thank you enough for just getting me started. Only thing I've noticed is i don't have the same options as you do since I've upgraded to the latest Neptune 4 Pro firmware's. Anyway you could do an updated tutorial? Anyway. can't thank you enough. Got my first print running as we speak!! GGs!
I just got my Neptune 4 Plus today! Already finished the test filament inside and I'm waiting for the new filaments to arrive. I will try these thank you! Also, It might be a good idea to heat the bed even before the manual leveling
Hey so I’ve been doing the flow rate calibration like you showed it. However I just discovered that we should also do the calculation on the first pass, I know in your case you pick 0 so it would end up with the same number. But I just saw that for example the first pass the you are between 5 and 0 for example you would pick the overexteusion one, do the calculation, then fine tune it with the second pass, which justifies why the second pass is only negative numbers plus 0. Just thought it was worth to mention that in your case there was no need for a calculation on pass one however it should be done.
the music is so calming
Love this guide. Couple of questions/ clarifications.
1) for the pressure advance, shoudl you multiple by .002 or .02? because you put in .046, but in the calculator you put in .02 to get you .46.
2) Should you ignore the 12 non-manifold edges when you print the temperature tower? I am assuming yes cause thats what it looks like you do, but may want to let people know.
3) Is there a reason why you setup the configurations in the printer.cfg vs putting the changes directly in orca slicer?
I actually waited til this weekend (received my brand new Neptune 4 Max back in Nov 23'.) Decided to wait for upgraded firmware and components (Linear Rails X/Y/Z and upgraded Hotend "MicroSwiss Flowtech") Couldn't be happier and going thru this tuning will make it a breeze to get thru my 3 Main Filament choices (PLA+/PETG/PET-CF). This testing also pointed out a few flaws in my install so far (such as un-greased linear rails causing massive X-axis jumps), all of which a bit of grease/oil smoothed out. Can't wait to get back into this though, my Ender 3V2 will also likely get the treatment as I transition that machine to Linear Rails and Orcaslicer.
This has been so helpful. Thank you!
Thank you for this. I'm pretty new to 3d printing and this helps a lot.
Glad it was helpful!
Amazing tutorial and advise. Thank you so much.
Be careful setting your Flow Ratio to 1! (11:09) All my Calibration Prints failed because of dragging, i set it back to 0.98 and all my issues went away!
After setting it to 1, you need to do the flow calibration. Over extruding will skew all other tests so that needs to be dialed in first!
@WildRoseBuilds I couldnt even print the Flow Calibration once without all the infills getting ripped apart, tried changing everything and no hope, changed it back to default 0.98 and right now it is printing without issues, after trying for 2 hours!
In my case i cant go above 0.98!
@@Lukas221Killer I had the blob of death at Flow rate 1 hahahahaha kill me
Thanks for this video. This is my first printer. I purchased it because my son was begging for this. Now we cant seem to print anything but the samples that come on the usb. I am going to go step by step tomorrow and hopefully this eorks out. Thanks again.
Update. Your walkthrough was very helpful and I was able to get my first print. I still have some tuning but I would still be nowhere without this tutorial. Thanks again.
Thanks man. I literally just unboxed my first printer which is a Neptune 4plus
thanks for an amazingly detailed video!
Thanks so much dude! Now tuning mine
Hey there, I picked up one of these used the other day (first 3D printer ever) and had a few quality issues with my first test prints. I found your guide and dove in, and found several of the wheel nuts on the bottom loose and tightened them up, went through the calibration several times and went to do the first "flow test" print. The printer warms up, goes to the top of the print bed and prints the test line, then goes to the middle and 'starts' printing but now immediately just starts to gum up on the nozzle and never puts anything down on the build plate. I tried 2 different types of filament and leveling the plate a few more times but the exact same thing happens every time now. Any tips? Thanks!
I've had my n4+ for about a year now...and yeah I'm returning my whole device again using this video tomorrow
did I get a special ed type of printer because it says it's going to take an hour and half for the flow rate test
Very nice and detailed video although I prefer the way described by Klippe itself for pressure advance tuning (with the Square tower)
By the way, do you print with Z-Hop too or not? And when you print with supports, do you pick Tree supports?
Maybe a video about “preparing” a print and choosing whether you should use supports or not, Z Hop or not and Infill percentage might be interesting!
awesome guide!
Great content I thank you. Question: @14:40 you multiply the value at which the corner is sharpest by the step value, but when I print the step value is 0.16, default is 0.2. If i did that number it would be way too large. What is the hicup here?
Jordan from the future here. The layer size was 0.16, and the step value for the PA test was 0.02. I needed clarification on the difference there.
thank you so much for this. although my orca slicer wouldnt allow me to print the temp tower atm. going to look into fixing that🤗
@WildRoseBuilds - you changed all Settings in the CFG File, but what if i have multiple Filaments (with different specs) do i change the Settings in the Filament Options or still in the CFG of the printer?
Extrusion rate / rotation distance should hold up pretty well across different materials. The only thing I ever change in my cfg is pid but I have all my different temperatures commented out and can switch them easily. There’s probably a better way 🤷🏼♂️
For the pressure_advance setting, did you intentionally move the decimal one point over, you multiplied 0.02 * 23 = 0.46 but then updated the setting to 0.046?
Have this setting to be done for every different filament?
Thanks!! The input shaper nozzle calibration are not in the update for the elegoo neptune 4 pro. Or I did it wrong.
Really helpful, thank you!
Excellent video! I just wish the printers didn’t need all this minute fine turning it really puts me off even trying. But I will attempt to follow your video and keep my fingers crossed 😅🤞
Excellent video, thanks!
by the way could you kindly tell us how to manually change the level on each part in auxiliary levelling thanks
the only other problem is that I do not know which adapter/dongle to get could you please recommend a reliable one? thanks
14:19 My print looks consistent (Honestly great..) the whole way through.. I used your command from you other video before printing -
Run this command first - SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT SQUARE_CORNER_VELOCITY=1 ACCEL=500
Then this command - TUNING_TOWER COMMAND=SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE PARAMETER=ADVANCE START=0 FACTOR=.005
Perhaps that was why?
Should I even worry about this?
When I am doing the x calibration is it supposed to sound like a jet engine
I have been printing on my Elegoo Neptune plus 4 for about a year now, you showed me some things I never knew, sadly I have been using the manufacture suggested Cura slicer this whole time :(
When i run the retraction calibration, my printer starts to begin heating up the nozzle and bed, but shortly after, it resets the print head position and says, "System is currently starting, please wait". It never runs the calibration. All of the other calibration tests work fine.. any ideas what's going on?
I changed the end retraction length to 5 and it solved my issue hope this helps.
is the flow rate different on all printers even if they are the same model
Yes! Things like ambient temperature, filament type, and extruder idler pressure are all different even on the same machines and play a role in flow rate.
A really useful video, thanks. But despite what your title says the Neptune 4 Pro doesn't have the option for input shape tuning or PID calibration in it's advanced setting menu. As far as I'm aware this model doesn't ship with the accelerometer required to achieve the former anyway. Now if you could upload a video showing how this could be achieved with the 4 Pro (maybe using a USB accelerometer), that would be most appreciated.
Hey thanks for the heads up on this, I didn’t realize I had put the pro in the title, I’ll remove that. For the pro you can read the klipper documentation and follow their steps to do a manual resonance calibration test print with no need for an accelerometer. There’s also a command that can be issued through the fluid interface in the console to tune pid. Hope that helps!
@@WildRoseBuildsYou still haven't removed it
how do you adjust the flow rate when your test results look best with a positive number instead of a negative number?
Now, would you have to do all these steps again if you from a .4 to a .2 nozzle?
You should yeah. You can always just use the base profile but best case is to process all of these again. Remember to save the profile for next time!
is this something you do with each filament?
I only print pla on my Neptune machines so that’s all I tune them for. You can absolutely tune for other materials and just save them under different profiles. There’s also a filament override menu that can change printer settings like retraction and speed for whichever filament profile you have selected!
simply amazing
Are you using elegoo PLA? Also my Neptune 4 pro doesn't have built in input shaping, any recommendations?
Yes elegoo pla! I have had great results with it and they’re starting to make some cool silk and bicolor filaments as well that print good. For input shaping on the 4 I’d look into a usb accelerometer, I think big tree tech makes one for very cheap! You can also visit the klipper website where they document a manual tuning test for resonance compensation. Thanks for watching!
For elegoo neither 4 plus i changed the flow rate as you told in the printer.cfg but after that i was not able get the prints to stick to the buildplate at all what should I do?
Okay, so it looks like you are still responding to comments on here, so hopefully you can help me. I followed your steps and did notice z axis wheel was not making contact. I have had lots of failed supports that have been just getting knocked off. I thought, it must be my retraction / zhop, so i adjusted and doubled its value. No luck. I figured it was the bed, so i enabled professional leveling and went through the whole 121 points. Tried a calibration test, no luck.. it was stringy, would peel or would just blob in some areas, roll around and I would have to stop the print. It was as if no matter what, my leveling did nothing. So, I found this video, fixed my rail as mentioned before and followed your steps. I have an N4 pro, so no cool menus or accelerometer. I skipped this part, so perhaps that's my issue, but i went to do my flow rate test. I couldn't even get most of one square down. I re-leveled, tried again, no dice. I started the print, went into settings and cranked my flow rate to 110.. the print got better, but still failed. I went to 120 and that worked fairly well, still failed on block 4. How are you making it through all the blocks A, and B how high of flow rate should I go? I am using creality hyper PLA. It sits in a dryer and afaict everything else has been adjusted accordingly. I can print a benchy just fine. (it looks pretty good, but not quite as nice as yours) Once I go to print anything remotely technical and not dead center, I get horrible results. Should I be doing all your math before I worry about my flow rate?? Any help would be much appreciated. Also, this video and your other are so well done, will most def be subbing. Thank you for your wonderful content, your pace is perfect, your shots are amazing, the details you show for what over extrusion and under extrusion look like were super helpful for identifying.. all of it was amazing. Well done!
Did the flow rate test my best one was -10 how would I apply that to my settings
Please help! I recently bought the Neptune 4 Pro and have just been following this setup guide. I seem to be missing the Input shaping & PID calibration in the Advanced settings menu. The firmware for the printer and screen are up to date. Can anyone advise?
The 4 pro doesn’t have the built in accelerometer. The pid can be tuned with a command but there isn’t a menu prompt for it. I would dig into klipper site tutorials. There’s tutorials there to manually tune all this via commands even the resonance without the accelerometer. I should have clarified that in the video sorry!!
@WildRoseBuilds No worries! Thanks for the advice. I actually found the pressure advance tuning once I'd accessed Klipper, the printer is running sweet 👌
i also adjusted the z axes rail. it was with offset. i notice it when i could see that one wheel was without contact. and spin freely. so i hold one of the z motors and spin the other a few clicks (belt clicks) that way i could make sure that all the wheels are with good contact on the rail. this is super important. without this step. the hole rail is moving. i stoped doing this when i see that there are no free wheels. on both sides
I just got my Neptune 4 Pro. I see that I'm missing the Input shaper and Nozzle PID Calibration under Advanced settings. I've updated my firmware. Could it be that the 4 Pro lacks these features?
this was a very informative video
where do i get the 3d models for the test ?
My neptune 4 PRO has software version 1.1.2.41 and the motors are 1.2A I want to upgrade and formatted a few memory sticks with FAT32 and copied the files from fixpack to the root of memory stick. I inserted the stick and started the machine nothing happened when I go to setting and about machine I pressed the up arrow at the bottom of machine and message shows update failed put all files in the root of the stick {which I did} I tried 3 different memory sticks including the one supplied with the machine when I directly use the firmware update file instead of the FIXpack it is the same. Your video is perfect to upgrade my Printer thank you
Im an currently trying to update the firmware and get the exact same error. Did you ever resolve the problem? If yes, how did you do it?
@@mariuspaulbayertz8783 Hi Guys, waiting for my PRO to be delivered next week. Obviously do not know the firmware version yet, but, did you guys sort this out?
Thanks heaps.
Eddie
I can't seem to get it to work in bambu studios even tho they have a profile? am I doing something wrong? :(
What exactly isn’t working?
I don't have Input Shaper or Nozzle PID calibration in my advanced settings on my Neptune 4 Pro. I'm running V1.1.3.1 - 2024.07.23. Anyone know if Elegoo took away these settings or are they not an option on the 4 Pro?
you might have answered this but, where can I get the calibration block file?
what should i do if mine doesnt even finish printing past the first temperature test. it just came unstuck from the plate after getting to the top of 230 PLA
You’ve done the bed leveling and z offset? Given the bed a good clean with soap and water? If so try using a big brim on the print to help it stick!
Yeah did all the tests and leveling and cleaned the bed even went to do the retraction tuning test and it printed that perfectly. I'll try a bigger brim. Thank you
question : My print head now comes off the front of the bed when doing an auto level this happend only after I had a support fall off and got behing the bed belt and caused a layer shift.. how do I reset so the print head returns to its normal position.. neptune 4 max
Thank you for this!
How to do this perfect timelapse?
Is there a way to undo any of the changes to the cfd? I don't remember what the values were before making the changes and now I every print I send to the printer via orca fails during the first layer. When I load the same print through cura they print fine. I can't find the difference between the two slicer so I'd like to start fresh on orca. What the best way to get it back to factory settings?
I had the same issue. Don’t know if you were using glue stick or not but I wasn’t and started using the glue stick and havnt had a problem since. But there should be a default reset in there somewhere but I’m not sure. I never looked to see if there was or not
When I tried to print the flow rate test on my 4 pro it kept coming off the build plate. I tried cleaning it allready. What’s the next step?
Ad a big brim with 0 contact distance or try a raft!
I like V2, but would prefer it if the unit recessed into the saucer to maintain a flush look when not operating. Imagine a sliding door, or potentially and iris that open with the turret popping up.
I found your torture helix. What would help newbies like me is if you could provide the links for the tests that you run, other than those included in the slicer. I have the boat and your helix; not sure which cube you used. Thanks for your work!
Can you pls post a link?
best video ever.
when you started retraction tower didnt you just discard settings made by temperature tower ? therefore the retraction tower was printed at wrong temperature ?
If you have any questions......YES!.....YES I HAVE !!!
How do you calibrate "BLOB OF DEATH" away.....i've had that twice now.......do you have a fix for that ??
Suddenly my prints stop sticking to the plate.....i've tried several cleaning solutions....like you and IPA and nothing works.
ONLY thing i got to work is if i print first layer at 20mm/s or lower.....only the first layer....then it sticks and i can print fast on top of that.....but why doesn't it stick at standard speed??
Thanks a lot for a good video
Glad you liked it
@@WildRoseBuilds question on pressure advance. you take 0.02*23=0.46 and you write down 0.046 where did the extra 0 come from?
how to reduce the prominent layers though? i guess layer height
Yeah layer height will do this. I tune for .16mm which gives relatively good results without taking days to print.
Used the exact same printer with teh same settings and filament. Done all the steps as mentioned and i'm having trouble with the 1st pass flow test. It clears the nozzle and then proceeds to make the outline but once it starts to make the first sample it spews filament everywhere and clog up. I tried relevelling and calibrating 3 times and it wont sort it. I have printed things before this and it worked fine. I was going ot dial in my settings using this video but it is not working. please help
Sounds like your flow rate might be improperly set? Double check in your settings that it’s at 1.0. Some slicers use a percentage for flow but orca slicer uses a whole number.
Thank you @WildRoseBuilds for your reply to that question. I am having the same problems and am currently working on the Z offset. I
I think I have gone through 3 iterations of the guide but in the end I am still having issues with my prints, mostly i think extrusion and pressure issues because i don't get a lot of stringin on any calibration print.
What time-lapse program do you use?
@WildRoseBuilds can you do a video about input shaping for neptun 4 series
What is the link to your test cube?
Amazing! Thank you!
Where to get those test prints?
Wonderful tunung guide! A little question - default Orca flowrate is set to 0.98 for N4Pro, should I always keep it at 1.00 after the flowrate calibration and editing printer.cfg?
Yes that’s how I do it! I like having the round number 😅