Great video! But you should have specified the condition of the cards for examples we can follow. Like near mint, light play, moderate play, heavy play and damaged
Great video once again my man I love that change of heart drawing of yours and I'm sorry for the haters accusing you as a scam artist and a troll much love from California ✌️💜
I would love to learn more on topics such as 1. orica cards, 2. card back light red-ish color vs. darker orange red-ish color, and 3. values of "replica" cards, and 4. how to spot fake cards, just to name a few haha
Thanks for the support!! I have to say both orica and replica cards are probably out of my range of expertise, since I've never owned or really even had anything to do with either of them. Fake cards could definitely be a potential topic though. And with the light red v dark orange card backs, do you mean variants within individual sets, or the way the colours changed gradually over time?
@@Schloast hey man thanks for replying. I guess I meant that some people might confuse a card with a darker orange back as a fake because they didn't know that there's variants within individual sets or the color changed over time. For instance, a DDS promo card back in the day has a darker orange back than most other cards from other sets, etc.
As far as worth would it be in the best interest to keep all first edition cards? Or does that not matter? I'm trying to figure out if any of these older cards are actually worth anything
What if you bought a near mint ghost rares on tcg and when you get it there are a bunch of scratches on the foil. Is it still near mint or moderately played or worse?
Thank you! Have you seen the end of my last video on GX cards? I did brief comparison towards the end of that one of a couple of secret rares. If there's anything you'd still like to learn after that just let me know :)
Between euro print or NA print secrets specifically for the secret rare GX cards (like magic formula), do you know which printing is typically valued higher?
For secret rares I wouldn't say there is really much of an established difference since people tend not to even be able to tell what's what. Nearly all PSA 10s are NA print by default though since euro print has such poor print quality for the 2nd half of gx that very few can grade well
So if a yugioh card overall looks in very good condition, maybe near mint or excellent but it has a minor pressure point and very light scratching on the back, it instantly devalues a card to lightly played?
@@Schloast Dam.. that tells me that my card is most likely lightly played because the pressure point is right in the center of the picture and visible under the light. That sucks, thanks for the feedback though
Crimps can be kind of a double edged sword haha. On the one hand some misprint collectors like them, but on the other hand they definitely affect the condition a lot from a professional grading standpoint
Yeah I had gone ripped off like that once they send me a picture of the card inside of a hard plastic and a plastic sleeve luckily it was only $10 it was an unlimited edition metal raiders summoned skullultra rare but I instantly message the seller and he wouldn't reply so I messaged eBay and I got a complete refund and they let me keep the card ever since then I've been very very picky I tell people to give me a good picture and to make sure it's out the sleep to make sure it's in great condition or at least near-mint like the way they claim to be great video my friend like that we can teach others what not to go for or at least what to ask for before purchasing a card
Appreciate the kind words as always bro! And don't worry about that troll haha, everyone already knows he is completely insane from instagram so it doesn't bother me at all. Always good to be careful when buying on ebay like you say, ebay has your back if something goes wrong but it wastes a lot of time having to return cards all the time
@@Schloast I'm glad to hear I'll positive you are my man keep that positivity coming and like you said I'm glad to know that these haters don't bother you and yes you know how eBay and sellers can be once again my man much love and you're welcome for the kind words I appreciate the content
I love how you have all the examples you mention on hand and not trying to describe something that needs visual representation
YES, my prayers have been answered. Thanks and as always, great video!
Great video! But you should have specified the condition of the cards for examples we can follow. Like near mint, light play, moderate play, heavy play and damaged
Well, this basically confirms to me that I have a near mint to mint LOB 001 1st edition from my childhood that went unused.
Pretty happy about that
Thank you! This video had everything I was looking for.
Awesome, glad it was helpful!
very good content, educational video for any yugioh enthusiast, subbed and followed on IG :)
Yet another great and very informative video, thank you!
Great video once again my man I love that change of heart drawing of yours and I'm sorry for the haters accusing you as a scam artist and a troll much love from California ✌️💜
You didn’t go over scratches ? How many for near mint etc
I would love to learn more on topics such as 1. orica cards, 2. card back light red-ish color vs. darker orange red-ish color, and 3. values of "replica" cards, and 4. how to spot fake cards, just to name a few haha
Thanks for the support!! I have to say both orica and replica cards are probably out of my range of expertise, since I've never owned or really even had anything to do with either of them. Fake cards could definitely be a potential topic though. And with the light red v dark orange card backs, do you mean variants within individual sets, or the way the colours changed gradually over time?
@@Schloast hey man thanks for replying. I guess I meant that some people might confuse a card with a darker orange back as a fake because they didn't know that there's variants within individual sets or the color changed over time. For instance, a DDS promo card back in the day has a darker orange back than most other cards from other sets, etc.
As far as worth would it be in the best interest to keep all first edition cards? Or does that not matter? I'm trying to figure out if any of these older cards are actually worth anything
What if you bought a near mint ghost rares on tcg and when you get it there are a bunch of scratches on the foil. Is it still near mint or moderately played or worse?
Great video once again! Can you make a video on the difference between American and European secret rares (GX and 5Ds) thanks :)
Thank you! Have you seen the end of my last video on GX cards? I did brief comparison towards the end of that one of a couple of secret rares. If there's anything you'd still like to learn after that just let me know :)
Between euro print or NA print secrets specifically for the secret rare GX cards (like magic formula), do you know which printing is typically valued higher?
For secret rares I wouldn't say there is really much of an established difference since people tend not to even be able to tell what's what. Nearly all PSA 10s are NA print by default though since euro print has such poor print quality for the 2nd half of gx that very few can grade well
@@Schloast gotcha, thanks for the reply!
So if a yugioh card overall looks in very good condition, maybe near mint or excellent but it has a minor pressure point and very light scratching on the back, it instantly devalues a card to lightly played?
It's very difficult to say without seeing the actual card. However, if the pinpoint dent is at all noticeable then the card cannot be near mint
@@Schloast Dam.. that tells me that my card is most likely lightly played because the pressure point is right in the center of the picture and visible under the light. That sucks, thanks for the feedback though
just pulled red eyes dark dragoon starlight and there is a small crimp on the corner
Crimps can be kind of a double edged sword haha. On the one hand some misprint collectors like them, but on the other hand they definitely affect the condition a lot from a professional grading standpoint
Thank you👊
No worries! The next one will have a lot more on this topic too!
damn people are really ocd about this, thanks for the explanation
Yeah I had gone ripped off like that once they send me a picture of the card inside of a hard plastic and a plastic sleeve luckily it was only $10 it was an unlimited edition metal raiders summoned skullultra rare but I instantly message the seller and he wouldn't reply so I messaged eBay and I got a complete refund and they let me keep the card ever since then I've been very very picky I tell people to give me a good picture and to make sure it's out the sleep to make sure it's in great condition or at least near-mint like the way they claim to be great video my friend like that we can teach others what not to go for or at least what to ask for before purchasing a card
Appreciate the kind words as always bro! And don't worry about that troll haha, everyone already knows he is completely insane from instagram so it doesn't bother me at all. Always good to be careful when buying on ebay like you say, ebay has your back if something goes wrong but it wastes a lot of time having to return cards all the time
@@Schloast I'm glad to hear I'll positive you are my man keep that positivity coming and like you said I'm glad to know that these haters don't bother you and yes you know how eBay and sellers can be once again my man much love and you're welcome for the kind words I appreciate the content
You should work at psa lol 😅
# bubble gum simulator