Sharpening Stone Buying Gift Guide Christmas 2023 For Every Budget (NOT SPONSORED)
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- Опубликовано: 9 июн 2024
- Knife sharpening stone buyers gift guid for Christmas 2023!
Dont know what to get the knife person for Christmas? Heres a quick guide and short reviews.
Good Cheap $⬇️
amzn.to/3MVBRsK
S SATC Diamond stone
DMT diamond stone USA alternative to above diamond stone⬇️
amzn.to/47O4zUC
Better $$⬇️ (HIGHLY recommended)
Shapton Kuromaku
amzn.to/3GdSmwp
Shapton Glass⬇️
amzn.to/49QB5qL
BEST $$$⬇️
Naniwa Resin bonded diamond
amzn.to/3G9wTF7
Best deal i've sen on this stone!
FULL disclosure :
These are Amazon affiliate links. I earn from qualifying purchases.
As an affiliate, I earn a commission on qualifying purchases at no additional cost to you. Everything in this video was purchased with my own money.
Chapters:
00:00 INTRO IMPORTANT
00:15 Best cheap stone 2023
01:06 Best medium price point 2023 (possibly THE BEST STONES ON THE MARKET)
01:55 For the knife person who has EVERYTHING! - Хобби
Thank you ! It took me a while when I was younger to get the hang of sharpening stones, but now when people need their knife sharpened they come to me ! It’s like the second half of the hobby collecting knives
I agree: diamond stone 400/1000 + shapton glass 1000 is beginner friendly and cost effective set for regular usage. I've bought those stones about two years or so ago and I use it regularly.
It looks like I learned a lot from you. ;) Cheers!
I always appreciate your videos Sir. Thank you.
I appreciate how short your videos are! Thank you!!!
I always appreciate your take on these types of items where flashy labels and possible claims that frankly aren’t worth the money we’re paying for it.. thanks for sharing man.. 👍
Happy Thanksgiving. I hope you and your family had a good one. Appreciate the reviews and tips.
Thank you. I never touch sharpening stone before and I was confuse between sus cheap whetstone, natural stone, or diamond plate. Thank to this video, I confident to choose diamond plate 😊
Awesome vid thanks
Thanks again
Great video
yeah I love the shapton glass stones, using only those now
Great list.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Good video!
Have you/would you ever consider doing a comparison video between the shapton pro 1000 and the shapton glass 1000?
superior wapanese sharpening stones folded over 1000 times
You should try the worksharp guided field sharpener. Its a great.
Shapton stones are great, they would be my first option.
I'm a bit skeptical about Diamond stones. Sometimes they suffer from reduced edge durability because of carbide rupture. It doesn't always happen but it's a quite common issue.
Ima getting the cheap one thanks 🤭
I would love a review of the shapton glass stones
Perhaps the best stone is the one we made along the way.
Anyway you made lots of good sharpening video but im wondering why you didn't buy a sharpness measuring tools like the project farm and burrfection use?
I see you've finaly bit the bullet and bought some Shapton glass. Look forward to the reviews.
Alex let me begin by thanking you soooo much for doing these videos on RUclips. They are more informative than you think. I have a question for you to answer when you have the time. It’s about flattering Sharpton glass plates in the 6000 and 8000 grit size. I currently use a 400 grit diamond plate to flatten my Kuromaku 320,1000 & 2000 grit stones. As they were not flat when I received them. So here’s my question. I’m I doing the right thing using that 400 grit plate to fatten theses ceramic plates? I watched yours and other videos on fattening stones . I’m understanding the point that you want your stones to be flat, but none address at what point are you not not helping your stones? Thank you 🙏 so much .
Mike
Hello to you. Thanks for the video. I'm a beginner and have recently bought the Shapton Glass 1000 for my kitchen knives. In your opinion, should i be fine with the Glass 1000 alone or should i pair it with one of the diamond stones that you mention here (the S SATC 400/1000 or the DMT D8F Fine) if the latter, which one would you pick? Thanks!
I've been eyeballing the shapton stones and watched your several reviews on them. I'm curious though if my edc CPM154 leek would be a pain to sharpen on it. It's already tough enough to work on my lansky kit and been looking for an upgrade.
Can you do a video on how to sharpen a serrated knife or if you can sharpen knives on natural sandstone?
I am an 'occasional' sharpener and I have a set of 5 single sided diamond plates like the S-SATC ones you showed. Grits are 400 to 1200. I also have a 3000 grit whet stone I bought as a finishing stone. Which grits are best for generally looking after blade edges? The blades are mostly kitchen knives from a brand name and are from the cheaper end of their range. I do have high quality knives but I don't want to ruin them while I'm still learning.
👍
Novice question: Are the Shapton options enough by themselves for a beginner? Or do you also need something to strop? (I guess one does.) If so, what would you recommend to complement either of these Shaption options?
I want be able to occasionally sharpen some simple stainless steel (5Cr15MoV / 1.4116) kitchen knives, so I don't need anything fancy for razor sharpness.
Thanks for the review. I just ended up so confused. All I remember was the last stone was the best, most expensive, and made for high carbide hard-to-sharpen knives (which I don't have). Maybe too much too fast for my brain.
Can you do one on sharpening rods?
What dou you think.about natural wet stones?
I keep seeing some rolling wheel sharing device on TikTok (and some sharpness tester). I looked through your videos, but don't see you reviewing it.
Have you reviewed this? If not, would you?
Do you recommend getting a dressing stone with the Shapton stones?
VIEW 1!!!!!!!!!!!! COMMENT 1!!!!!! AAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH
??? Quick question. What is the difference in rather you push the edge over stone vs. pulling edge over stone? I've seen it done both ways. Thanks!!!
So I have a benchmade presidio in CMP-M4. I was cutting a rubber hose and pooped right through the hose. Unfortunately it hit the wall when it when through the hose. It still cuts paper pretty good it’s just slightly rolled. When it cuts the paper it’s a little rough. What stone do you recommend for something like that?
Does then last stone make sense for CPM 3V and MagnaCut?
What's the difference in the kuromaku and the glass stones? Does one wear faster than the other or cut faster than the other?
What is your opinion on those roll-based sharpening devices? The one I fancy is called "Horl" but I guess theres probably several of those arround. I checked all your videos but didnt find anything. My wife asked me what I want for christmas this year and I'm thinking about wishing for a Horl. Your opinions on this?
Can you recommend a leather strop? just bought the Shapton cause im tired of having dull knives. are any of the $15 strops any good from amazon?
Which of the two Shapton would you prefer or recommend? The glass or the other one? Plus do you have a recommendation for a strop ?
Have you had any experience with the Naniwa Arata? It was a toss up between it and the shapton in this video but I went with the arata for a christmas present to myself.
I am rather new to sharpening but already have the spyderco ceramic stones in medium and fine at home since the price was nice when i got them but I have not had the time to use them yet so I do not know if I like them or not but do you recommend me getting any other stones in finer or courser grits. I will be sharpening all from very dull old knives to newer ordinary kitchenknifes but also leatherknifes that needs more sharpness.
I find it is hard to know what to get and not to get, what do one need when new, it is so easy to think you need many stones in many grits but I rather buy a few a little more expensive stones that lasts a long time and that I realy need than getting many cheap stones in many grits that never gets used. The less water needed when sharpening the better it is for me.
Or should I sell the spyderco and get a serie of shapton kuromaku stones instead.
It doesn't seem to be your area of interest, but I'd love to see how you'd sharpen chisels, turning gouges, plane irons, etc. your videos are a lot of fun.
Is that 1000 grit resin bonded stone close to the advertised grit or is it closer to something like 1500 that's what I had heard but wasn't sure
dang that first one sold out fast
Pretty good overall recommendations. I would change the steel recommendations at the end of the video, however. You have the Shatpon stones being suitable for S30V, which they are, but then recommend the Naniwa diamond stone for S35VN, which actually has a LOWER overall carbide volume, and lower MC carbide volume. Also, steels like M4 and 4V should be under the same category of Shapton stones. The expection would be that M4 is often tempered to 65HRC or higher, and then the diamond stone would be the better choice. The Naniwa diamond, I would suggest changing the list to something like Maxamet, Rex 121, S110V, S90V, 10V, etc. My general recommendation is that if the steel has ~4% vanadium or higher, use diamond stones/plates. If the vanadium is less than ~4%, the ceramic stones do a great job. But carbide type, volume isn't the end story, as you mentioned. Hardness plays a key role as to what stone to choose as well. But pretty good video!
Yes, s35vn was supposed to be on the other list. A mistake that sometimes happens when I have the titles right Next to each other in the timeline. Since it is usually a lower hardness steel. Id recommend the resin bonded for high carbide AND high hardness. Not necessarily either or. M4 is capable of very high hardness and has reasonable carbide volume, same with 4v. S110v and s90v are fine for the shaptons since they usually are not running very hard. 60-61 at the highest. Its the carbide combined with the high hardness that creates the problems. Think 63hrc+. But yes you're right s35vn was on the wrong list but thats still ok😉
@@OUTDOORS55ZDP-189 also runs a bit high usually, and has lots of carbides 😉
Zdp is low on carbide but is able to attain a very high hardness. Its both that tends to give the ceramic stones trouble.
Great suggestions! I have the first two that you suggested. I also have a number of Arkansas Stones and some vintage man-made ones from Norton and Craftsman that I picked up at yard sales. At least one is labeled carborundum, which is what rubies are made from. I haven't tried it on anything above run of the mill kitchen knives as I use my Lansky on my higher end pocket knives. Rubies are ranked just below diamonds at 9 on the hardness scale. Those SEEM like they'd work on many steels.
Also, is there a way to sort of guess which steels will sharpen up on Arkansas Stones? I've used them on high carbon steels, and blades marked Surgical Steel, along with some 440 stuff. I haven't tried D2 on one. Are you just wasting your time using them on any of the newer uber-steels? Is there still a place for natural or vintage stones any longer?
I have no experience with the glass stones. You suggested the Shapton stone, which I bought not long ago, OR the glass version, which costs more. What does one get for the bump in price when one goes to glass? And glass isn't very expensive, so why do those stones cost more than the other line of "gritty" stones?
Lastly, I keep seeing the Chinese green stones that have very beautiful coloring and patterns that claim to be 10,000 grit. I'm super doubtful, but the stones are just so darn pretty. What's the story on those?
For the shapton stones, the premium line with the most grit options are the shapton glass stones. They are only called glass because the sharpening stone is mounted to a glass plate, which helps keep it flat when being made. They are much thinner than other stones and need flattening even less often than the other shapton stones. However, both shapton stones are very similar and will essentially last forever.
I wouldn’t trust the green stones saying they’re 10,000 grit. My experience with Chinese whetstones is that they don’t have a consistent grit rating, some of the stone will be coarser than the rest, etc., but I haven’t tried the green stone, so I cannot fully speak for them.
Natural whetstones like Arkansas are a big deal to people who sharpen straight razors. They will sharpen most things you throw at them. However, they take a little longer to use as they cut a bit slower. People don’t like using them on steels with high vanadium carbide content and prefer diamond stones for those. Carborundum stones are oil stones that are usually very low grit. Like the 200-600 range. They are excellent for damaged edges or re-profiling, work very quickly, and feel way better to use than really coarse diamond plates.
@@ianbaker4295 Thanks for your very detailed answer. So my take away is that steels with lots of vanadium will sharpen easier on diamonds, that the carborundum stones are generally coarser grit, and that natural stones will do at least okay on the steels that get their hardness from high carbon vs vanadium. That information fits with my experience, I just didn't know that wasn't coincidence.
Ditto on the green stones, but I like the way they look so much. I'll probably have to buy a small cheap one just to get it out of my system!
Thanks for the info on the glass stones vs the regular, it sounds like if I have one in a certain grit, I don't need the same grit in the other as I won't see any big difference in results.
Thanks again for you helpful info.
Hi, will a 1500 grit Shapton Kuromacu also do the trick. 1000 not available in South Africa.
I like the Shapton Kuromaku 1000, but unfamiliar with the Shapton Glass 1000. Would there be much difference between the two !?!
Having a hard time to finding the DMT and S SATC diamond stones when searching for it in Swedish shops 🙁, so how would the Shapton glass 500 compare to the diamond stones?
With the new Shapton Rock Star line, the GlassStone line is essentially obsolete. The Rock Star whetstones use the same abrasive and bonding, but instead of being 5mm, they're 10mm thick. They're essentially the GlassStone but without the stupid glass backing.
Can you do a video on the speedy sharp please!!!???
I already have most of the shapton glass stones. Do you think it is need to get the naniwa 1k?
I also sharpen knives for family and friends for extra money
Is it true that anything other than the diamond plate/stones, which stay flat, you need an abrading stone to continually flatten the other stones???
Do you still make those cool Outdoors knives?
Naniwa diamond stones are the better choice to sharpen ceramic blades. 😎
They are pretty much the ONLY choice 😉
How can you tell what steal your knives are made of? I hear a lot of different type and numbers and I don’t understand how to fine out. Thank you
There is an issue with the link provided. The link for Shapton Kuromaku takes you to Prime Video.
Are you still a fan of the Spyderco ceramic stones?
i get so busy sometimes that i find im sharpening 2 or 3 minutes at a time on a ceramic rod, i was wanting to get a ceramic stone that does not need water or oil cause its so fast. ive seen you use the spyderco benchstones, do you recommend those? alot of the reviews ive read on them is that are not flat alot of times and have uneven edges. the norton ascent ceramic stones look really good, but i have not see any reviews on them, maybe they are just too new. have you tried the norton ascent ceramic stones yet?
I believe they are being discontinued. Id get the shapton. They are splash and go, super fast but also have the feedback and crisp edges.👍 And no I haven't, theres a lot of new stuff id like to try🙂
On that first stone I spent hours reprofiling a largish Ontario knife that had a convex grind to start with. Is there something super course for that you’d recommend? When I get a new knife to sharpen I put my own angle on them so every first sharpening is a reprofile. Thanks
The diamond stone in this video is pretty coarse but if you want something SUPER coarse id look into the dmt extra coarse. It would help save some time for really heavy work. I have one and rarely use it. But for tough reprofiling work its better but still takes time to reprofile.
If I may, additional pressure might get the work done faster on coarser grits, however you are not supposed to press hard on those electroplated diamond stones...
Would love to see your take on the Tumbler system being advertised on YT. 🤔
There is a very good review by Torres from Rincon Del Afilado. It's a 1h review in Spanish. It's horrible regardless of the price.
What are your thoughts on the differences between the kuromaku and the Shapton glass 1k? Like feedback, speed, scratch pattern etc. it would be very interesting (and helpful!) to compare!
Cheers
I will have a video on that shortly 👍
@@OUTDOORS55that’s awesome! Can’t wait! :D love your content
Cheers
what happened to spyderco stones? you don't like those anymore?
I would also like to see the utility blades under the microscope.
What's a good ceramic option for on the go?
Fällkniven CC4.
I have 1085 - 1095hc, d2 and m390 what woukd be the best for these?
The Shapton stones
whats the use difference between the shapton 1000 grit and the glass 1000 grit? theyre both the same grit right?
No real difference. The glass stone may be flatter, but that's it.
I want to buy a shapton kuromaku. What is the grit recommended for touchup that will be the last stone i sharpen on but that i could also use for resharpening? The 1000 is fine enough for wood carving? I have a cheap set so idk if there grit grade the same from different brands
Id get the 1000👍
Thank you :)
What would be the benefits of using a glass stone over a ceramic or diamond stone. I've never used a glass stone before. 20+ years as a butcher here. I am usually sharpening higher carbon butcher knives if that makes a difference. Thanks again! Another great video. Long time follower.
The glass stone is just using a glass base. The actual abrasive is ceramic. Its just their name that confuses people.
@@OUTDOORS55 excellent, thank you!
@@OUTDOORS55when I got mine, I initially was (trying) sharpening using the glass side 😅
I just ordered a package deal with the Naniwa professional stones. 400/1000/3000 grit. Hearing you say it should be reserved for high end steel makes me a little curious since I mainly plan to use it on vintage chisels and plane blades. Is it just that these kind of high end stones isn't nescessary or do they work less effective with old steel?
These are the naniwa resin bonded DIAMOND stones. Not the professional stones. Did you get the professional stones or diamond stones?
Ohh I completely missed that. I ordered the professional stones. Havn't recieved them yet though.@@OUTDOORS55
Good abrasive trumps all steels, so your setup will work great 👍
QUESTION.. I see you sharpening by pushing or pulling in the direction of the apex.. I was taught this was harder to control and would damage the apex if you were not 100% precise with the angles.. do you agree..??
If your technique is good, the method used is of little importance
Well, buy pushing or pulling towards the apex your technique doesn't have to be just good.. it has to be perfect.. how many of us are perfect..?? If you push or pull away from the apex then there is far more room for error that does not result in apex destruction.. or even stone damage if you have a softer stone..
@@keithricketts4867what is your question?
If your question is, "are you a perfect robot or sharpening jig?", then the answer from any of us is a resounding "No".
If your question is "Are you going to damage the edge geometry by not being perfect?", the answer is also, "NO".
Well, my original question is quite clear, and it was not either of your attempts to answer it.. nor was it for you.. sorry, no disrespect.. however it was meant for the gentleman who makes these videos as he is someone who I have come to extremely highly respect.. I don't know you.. and just because you say "no" doesn't make it true.. and to answer your "actual" question, my "actual" question for this gentleman whom I highly respect was "do you agree..??"
How would you sharpen the knife without pulling or pushing into the apex direction?
Can confirm CPM-M4 sucks to sharpen.
Its a beast for sure👍
My edge has been abused for the last three years with construction work. Just last week on my diamond plate I attempted to touch up the belly. Nearly 5-10 minutes of messing around, and I started to see improvements. I am still not sure if it was my technique or my plate that was the cause for such a slow progression. Probably both, at least we agree the steel is tough.
The diamond stone is £43 on Amazon UK or roughly $54!
FYI mate, the Glass series equivalent to the Pro series 1k is not the 1k, it's the 500. The Pro series 1k is not actually a 1k stone. Also just fyi. the 220 and 320 on the Pro lines are not alumina, they are SIC. Like a norton cystoyon except in a splash and go water stone. they wear out faster than other stones in the line, including the 120 which is also alumina, but... they have exceptional grinding power.
Pro series you have 120. then 220 and 320 which are SIC. the 1k, 1,5k and 2k are the sharpening stones. Like I said the 1k not a true 1k. Then the 5k, 8k and 12k are the finishers. none of those will turn a burr. The glass line is 120/220, 320/500, those are the course stones, 1k to 4k are the sharpening stone. and 6k to 16k. are the finishers. the 30k stones are for razors.
the glass series is more like a naniwa chosera. more friable. better scratches on wider bevels. the pro is just known for being very hard and very slow to wear but cuts good. Great if all you need to do are edges. If you want to try magic, try naniwa super stones for finishing and polishing. these are resin bound stones The best finishing and razor stones on the market by far. the 12k ss is the ultimate mirror machine.
I love them all. But. it doesn't make sense even for me to have so many stones.
imo the best glass stones are the 220, 320/500. the 2k, 3k or 4k are magical for finer medium stones. the finishers are very nice too. I have the 8k and the 16k. Much more friable than the pro line finishers. polish much better. especially wider bevels. but they do cost a lot considering how little abrasive you get.
I never even heard of a glass stone until your last video. it sounds really strange to me.
It's a sharpening stone that's bonded to a flat glass plate. They'll generally be flatter than a normal stone.
That said, the normal Shapton ceramic stones are very flat and very high quality.
do they need flattening after use??
@@jameshaulenbeek5931
I think I need a new bike 🙄
Made in China...
don't know.
Since they damaged that pipeline near Finland lately . They're getting too aggressive for my taste if you know what I mean.
They seem to have the same behavior as Japan showed in WWII.
Lebensraum at the cost of other countries.
Yo Boss, I am one of your subscriber. Hey lately, you only show some negative stuff. I thought you were the one who’s gonna start doing some knife making and you just basically showing something that has no interest for many of us don’t get offended, but I was really expecting from you that you gonna be doing some great knives out of premium steels and instead, you’re just judging someone’s product that has nothing to do to you at all
Kind of a shame
Its called reviews. Cant please everyone. Just go ahead and unsubscribe 👍
"negative stuff"
Lol
Could you do a review on the Tumbler Knife sharpener? @outdoors55
@Amazon -- Shapton K0702 Blade, 1000, Medium, Orange 25Dec23 $53.00 (US dollars)
Ahh dang it...i still buy a pull through sharpener :D its like 5 bucks