Sitting on the inside and failing to catch the wave when you had priority resets your position in the line up. Lots of people ignore this and paddle straight back up to the peak
One of the easiest ways to stay cool in a pumping line up is if you get a good one paddle back up slowly use it as recovery time and allow people to get the next few sets and when you arrive it won’t seem as though you hogging and you usually arrive just in time for a set
Totally, If ya paddle back slowly, people do not see ya as a hog of good waves. I do this thing where once I am past the breakers, I paddle slow with only one arm. Puts people at ease.
I also do this, but also it helps just sitting kind of at the level of the peak but more like opened or off, and just watch people catch waves. I wave found that this helps more as people actually see you sitting there appart from the lineup just waiting and letting waves pass. Also sometimes helps you catch some of the waves that break kind of off the peak.
Being ready on the shoulder just in case a good surfer falls going for a big turn = waves for intermediate in crowds Really thoughtful video, excellent work!
Lowers... I sit on the inside edges and watch the smaller sets roll under the pack. When I see this happening, I paddle like crazy to the inside and jump on the shoulder unless there is a rider up and riding. Takes observation, patience, and paddling agility, but I get 'decent' waves every Lowers session but never the best waves. Still worth it. YMMV
World Championship of Surfing is decided at Your home break!!! I like to watch the world's best in easy waves we all surf...... compared to Hawaii or Fiji
Dane Reynolds had a great quote on this, I forget where he was surfing, maybe Jeffrey’s bay or something like that, and he said even he has a really tough time getting waves. That just explains so much. I think he’s the best performance surfer ever haha, and he can’t even have his way in a lineup. I think a lot of the peak locals are bs myself. We have Chris ward in San Clemente and he is full blown legit, like every wave he wants *should* in fact be his. But there are so many bs “locals” imo. Idk man… I guess it’s a weird topic.
I'm an excellent swimmer, I've been swimming since I was a little boy, this helped me a lot when I made my transition to surfing and in order to always be well positioned to catch waves, but to guarantee my seat next to the locals I had to wake up earlier than everyone else, go to the beach every day at dawn, do my stretches, yoga and be ready to surf for hours without anyone to disturb me, just turtles, whales, dolphins and birds, I did this for years, I would surf for hours on end until I saw the first people arriving, but when the locals arrived I was already well positioned at the peak but I never paddled on any surfer's wave, I started to make friends on this beach who guaranteed me the right, they always left some waves for me because they knew I wasn't a hog and didn't waste waves, I took part in positive actions like cleaning the beach too, the result was that after a few years I became an advanced surfer, respected at the peak, catching the best rights in my country.
plus someone who tries atwo or three times on the inside to get a wave and keeps trying till they get one, if youre inside everyone, you had a try but missed it fro some reason, you must go to the back of the que to regain takeoff position not stay there missing waves till you finally get one, ive seen this and it really pisses everyone orf
Breaking down a complex thing. Well done. I'd add there are cheeky SOB's like Myself, who think," How can I improve without getting some of those set waves....?" I get on the locals nerves a bit, but do not ever try to hog the waves. Eventually, they give me room. If not, I cite my 4 years on North Shore Maui, and I just charge. Or, get up early, right...?
Additionally... GET OUT OF THE WAY! If you're not the person riding the wave, its your responsibility to move to the side. Blocking someones line is as bad as dropping in. So many people just sit there like a deer in headlights - you're literally ruining someones wave.
Its not just ability, it is also what kind of shape you are in and how often you surf. A crowded lineup means you will be doing a lot of paddling around, often against a current. The faster paddler will get more waves. And if you are not getting anything at all, go find a beach break and get better.
I've always enjoyed being a water photographer as well as a surfer it's allowed me alot easier access to many locals only spots and also meet a hell of alot of very cool people and pros alike including the Slater bro's and all of their friends So I guess that I've cheated my way over the past few decades and you have provided extremely useful tips hopefully most will absorb your advice and put it in practice Thanks for sharing as always Dan the man Be well 👍🤙
I remember being out near Ramey in Puerto Rico, the Jobos cove. And you can get a pack of locals sitting on that first peak, each guy takes a wave and the next moves over and over and over and the first one paddles back out and next back out and they sit in a tight pack right on the peak. So, it's pretty weird to try to paddle into the pack when you know you are probably going to get dropped in on by one of the locals and he's there with six or seven others and basically they own it. That's the downside to a place that has one really well defined first or main peak.
I generally sit and watch before going out to see if guys around my skill level are getting waves. If they are, Ill paddle out and just wait a bit to rest up after the paddle out. Generally, when people see me let a few other people go on waves that im deeper on, they dont have a problem when I finally turn around and paddle for one. Of course, this is not at a crazy advanced break like Lowers or Blacks, but at a break where 90% of people are on shortboards and doing turns
Spot on. Not to be so arrogant to that all wages are for everyone. 35 years of surfing and I’ve never have surf rage because of the respect you pointed out. Not forgetting the safest of dropping in also 😎
if there are no empty waves why bother? just move on to a lesser spot. Where the tide or wind makes a difference, prep slowly then go out and make it look bad until just before things improve. Best is to ease in gradually, wave people into a few you could have (especially if they are on smaller boards) until one has your name on it then just go. No need to be a hog, but if someone proves repeatedly to be one , just tell them you'll be taking a wave now and then (without any added "colorful" language).. give a complementary hoot and good vibe but don't let that seem they can walk all over you. If an aggro gets verbal, paddle away quietly then show up again later and just as quietly get a wave or two until they see the futility.
Sadly that has actually helped me getting way more waves. Also helps to be 6´4 and 225lb and not getting intimidated by 150lb aggressive locals🥴 Like I respect the locals and am very defensive and let everyone get their waves, but if you will not let me take one after you got 6 I dont care who you are, if you got a Problem I will gladly discuss it afterwards
I found j bay not to bad for getting waves for how world class it was and lots of waves mean there are shoulder waves. The biggest prob with j bay was the wankers in the water, I got dropped in on then the guy came and at me saying what what you got something to say, fuk off. A lot of surfer I must say are complete wankers, which wasn't how it was when I was a kid growing up surfing.
I have mostly surf beach breaks for the last 3 years, all seasons, on the south west part of Europe and there are no line ups, at least in the places I have been, it just doesn't exist. It very tough to be honest, i have even quit surfing for a few months just for that and the large crowds of zombie like people, all trying to do the same, crazy!.😂
Point breaks are tough because they often do NOT break often. So the crowd is ravenous. Beach breaks are often the Best case scenario for a relaxed sesh. I am happy to paddle down the beach to a lesser peak, if no one's on it.
Sitting on the inside and failing to catch the wave when you had priority resets your position in the line up. Lots of people ignore this and paddle straight back up to the peak
Yep, definitely! But, yep, this almost never happens haha!!
you're right in beginners level...... Its skills and oldman to get to the top of pecking order
One of the easiest ways to stay cool in a pumping line up is if you get a good one paddle back up slowly use it as recovery time and allow people to get the next few sets and when you arrive it won’t seem as though you hogging and you usually arrive just in time for a set
Totally, If ya paddle back slowly, people do not see ya as a hog of good waves. I do this thing where once I am past the breakers, I paddle slow with only one arm. Puts people at ease.
But what if u paddle back quicker to catch more waves 😂
Yep!! Great advice!!
and by the time you get there, the people who you let catch sets will be back in front of you
I also do this, but also it helps just sitting kind of at the level of the peak but more like opened or off, and just watch people catch waves. I wave found that this helps more as people actually see you sitting there appart from the lineup just waiting and letting waves pass. Also sometimes helps you catch some of the waves that break kind of off the peak.
Being ready on the shoulder just in case a good surfer falls going for a big turn = waves for intermediate in crowds
Really thoughtful video, excellent work!
Lowers... I sit on the inside edges and watch the smaller sets roll under the pack. When I see this happening, I paddle like crazy to the inside and jump on the shoulder unless there is a rider up and riding. Takes observation, patience, and paddling agility, but I get 'decent' waves every Lowers session but never the best waves. Still worth it. YMMV
Epic!! I must say, out of everywhere I've ever surfed, Lowers was the hardest to get waves. Because of the volume of people and it is an a-frame!!
World Championship of Surfing is decided at Your home break!!!
I like to watch the world's best in easy waves we all surf...... compared to Hawaii or Fiji
Dane Reynolds had a great quote on this, I forget where he was surfing, maybe Jeffrey’s bay or something like that, and he said even he has a really tough time getting waves. That just explains so much. I think he’s the best performance surfer ever haha, and he can’t even have his way in a lineup. I think a lot of the peak locals are bs myself. We have Chris ward in San Clemente and he is full blown legit, like every wave he wants *should* in fact be his. But there are so many bs “locals” imo. Idk man… I guess it’s a weird topic.
Hey mate! I know the interview you're talking about, and he explains it really well! I guess it has a lot more to do with personalities than ability!!
I'm an excellent swimmer, I've been swimming since I was a little boy, this helped me a lot when I made my transition to surfing and in order to always be well positioned to catch waves, but to guarantee my seat next to the locals I had to wake up earlier than everyone else, go to the beach every day at dawn, do my stretches, yoga and be ready to surf for hours without anyone to disturb me, just turtles, whales, dolphins and birds, I did this for years, I would surf for hours on end until I saw the first people arriving, but when the locals arrived I was already well positioned at the peak but I never paddled on any surfer's wave, I started to make friends on this beach who guaranteed me the right, they always left some waves for me because they knew I wasn't a hog and didn't waste waves, I took part in positive actions like cleaning the beach too, the result was that after a few years I became an advanced surfer, respected at the peak, catching the best rights in my country.
Good for you
@@oscarbmx16 no doubt about it
plus someone who tries atwo or three times on the inside to get a wave and keeps trying till they get one, if youre inside everyone, you had a try but missed it fro some reason, you must go to the back of the que to regain takeoff position not stay there missing waves till you finally get one, ive seen this and it really pisses everyone orf
For sure!! Totally agree there...
I keep on hunting for solo spots, sometimes I score but sometimes I’m in real danger. Crowded spots can be so stressful
Yep for sure!!
Breaking down a complex thing. Well done. I'd add there are cheeky SOB's like Myself, who think," How can I improve without getting some of those set waves....?" I get on the locals nerves a bit, but do not ever try to hog the waves. Eventually, they give me room. If not, I cite my 4 years on North Shore Maui, and I just charge. Or, get up early, right...?
Thanks haha, and yep, dawn sessions, or finding a stretch of coast with no one both work also 😂
Live in nj and Snaking on a beach break drives me nuts…. I’m not a great surfer but I put my time in @ my spot busy days take the fun out of it
Additionally... GET OUT OF THE WAY!
If you're not the person riding the wave, its your responsibility to move to the side. Blocking someones line is as bad as dropping in. So many people just sit there like a deer in headlights - you're literally ruining someones wave.
Yep, great shout!
Its not just ability, it is also what kind of shape you are in and how often you surf. A crowded lineup means you will be doing a lot of paddling around, often against a current. The faster paddler will get more waves.
And if you are not getting anything at all, go find a beach break and get better.
Well explained. My wife overheard your video and wonders why anyone bothers to go surfing. haha
I might agree after surfing Santa Cruz, CA on a crowded day.
Haha, yeah I definitely ask myself the same thing sometimes 😂
I've always enjoyed being a water photographer as well as a surfer it's allowed me alot easier access to many locals only spots and also meet a hell of alot of very cool people and pros alike including the Slater bro's and all of their friends So I guess that I've cheated my way over the past few decades and you have provided extremely useful tips hopefully most will absorb your advice and put it in practice Thanks for sharing as always Dan the man Be well 👍🤙
Hey Michael!! That's epic! That's definitely a good way into some secret spots haha...
I remember being out near Ramey in Puerto Rico, the Jobos cove. And you can get a pack of locals sitting on that first peak, each guy takes a wave and the next moves over and over and over and the first one paddles back out and next back out and they sit in a tight pack right on the peak. So, it's pretty weird to try to paddle into the pack when you know you are probably going to get dropped in on by one of the locals and he's there with six or seven others and basically they own it.
That's the downside to a place that has one really well defined first or main peak.
I generally sit and watch before going out to see if guys around my skill level are getting waves. If they are, Ill paddle out and just wait a bit to rest up after the paddle out. Generally, when people see me let a few other people go on waves that im deeper on, they dont have a problem when I finally turn around and paddle for one.
Of course, this is not at a crazy advanced break like Lowers or Blacks, but at a break where 90% of people are on shortboards and doing turns
Spot on. Not to be so arrogant to that all wages are for everyone. 35 years of surfing and I’ve never have surf rage because of the respect you pointed out. Not forgetting the safest of dropping in also 😎
Sit outside and wait for the rogues!
if there are no empty waves why bother? just move on to a lesser spot. Where the tide or wind makes a difference, prep slowly then go out and make it look bad until just before things improve. Best is to ease in gradually, wave people into a few you could have (especially if they are on smaller boards) until one has your name on it then just go. No need to be a hog, but if someone proves repeatedly to be one , just tell them you'll be taking a wave now and then (without any added "colorful" language).. give a complementary hoot and good vibe but don't let that seem they can walk all over you. If an aggro gets verbal, paddle away quietly then show up again later and just as quietly get a wave or two until they see the futility.
Just get really good at Ji jitsu! I think this will get you 100% more waves
Hahah, yep that works also!! 😂
Sadly that has actually helped me getting way more waves. Also helps to be 6´4 and 225lb and not getting intimidated by 150lb aggressive locals🥴
Like I respect the locals and am very defensive and let everyone get their waves, but if you will not let me take one after you got 6 I dont care who you are, if you got a Problem I will gladly discuss it afterwards
J bay when it’s on is super duper regimental if you take 5 minutes and just watch when you out you will figure it out
Any wave THAT good will be the same.
I found j bay not to bad for getting waves for how world class it was and lots of waves mean there are shoulder waves. The biggest prob with j bay was the wankers in the water, I got dropped in on then the guy came and at me saying what what you got something to say, fuk off. A lot of surfer I must say are complete wankers, which wasn't how it was when I was a kid growing up surfing.
Yeah, I can imagine that actually!!
The Twenty-Four rule...
If there's 4 people out there's 4 people getting waves.
If there's 24 people out there's 4 people getting waves.
Hahaha, so true!!!
Count how many unridden waves come through if its none don't paddle out.
Hahah, yeah great shout actually!!
I can tell you never surfed newyork
I have mostly surf beach breaks for the last 3 years, all seasons, on the south west part of Europe and there are no line ups, at least in the places I have been, it just doesn't exist. It very tough to be honest, i have even quit surfing for a few months just for that and the large crowds of zombie like people, all trying to do the same, crazy!.😂
Point breaks are tough because they often do NOT break often. So the crowd is ravenous.
Beach breaks are often the Best case scenario for a relaxed sesh. I am happy to paddle down the beach to a lesser peak, if no one's on it.
in good waves, the best surfers get the best waves. let the dogs eat the dogs. if you're not sure if you're hungry enough go somewhere else.