Make Your Own (DIY) Cycle Stop Valve From These Parts, Better, Cheaper, More Efficient, Less Cycles!
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- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2024
- As you may know from my other videos on the subject I am not a huge fan of Cycle Stop Valves. However, if you have your heart set on one, at least have a good one! I will show you how to make your own Cycle Stop Valve that is better and cheaper than the original! Better, cheaper, more efficient and less cycles!
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Real world experience here. With a simple restrictor in place set at 56 psi (PS set to 40/60psi) and 2 faucets open it keeps the PT nearly full while running, once taps are turned off, the bounce back effect ~5 psi turns off PS in about 25 seconds with the 1.5hp pump I have running. That said, I think your design is very nice!
how would this system work in a house where you have to leave a couple faucets dripping to keep from freezing?
I will seriously consider trying this!
Simple explanations. Good video
this looks very promising. Ill try it out end of December when I get data from the CSV setup I commented about in your other video.
how'd it go mate?
Thanks for the explanation. However, the Cycle Stop folks do say to size the PT large enough to handle those short term uses. The faster recovery for the PT in your design does seem to be an advantage.
My situation is that I want to keep the cycles down when the sprinkler system is on. I have a large enough tank to handle the shorter times for the house usage. Putting the pressure valve closer to the sprinkler feed lines seems to be a better place. I am being told from my pump installer that a CSV type setup could cause too high of a head pressure thus reducing the life of my pump. Of course if that is the case then it would not matter where the pressure valve was located. Any ideas? Thank you.
I installed this system. My pressure tank has an 83 gallon drawdown. After the flow sensor I have a 20psi pressure reducing valve connected to a open loop 8 gpm geothermal heating/cooling system. 20 psi was selected well below the low limit cycle of the pump so the gothermal system maintains a constant water flow when water is consumed in the house. The house has a pressure reducing valve at 50 psi. When the geothemal system calls for heat/cooling the pump runs continuously. Prior to this installation the pump cycled often when heating/cooling is required. Outside the house the garden hose flows at a steady pressure. Prior to the installation of this system the garden hose pressure varied as the pump cycled. Thank You Larry Elterman
Wow, you are the first person that has actually tried this so far as I know. I am so glad it worked! Did you have any problems getting it to work properly?
Seems like it would work!
Really enjoy the CSV video's. Well thought out. You think out of the box and are able to solve problems in a logical way.
Thank you! Tell that to Cary Austin (the owner of Cycle Stop Valves) who claims I am a disgrace to all engineers and an embarrassment to the human race!
Something that would help this design be more robust would be to add a manual valve in parallel to your electric valve that is configured to let a minimum of at least 1 gpm through it. This way way if the electric valve or flow switch fails, the pump will not dead head trying to fill the tank.
Can you also add an additional prv next to the flow sensor to ensure your sprinkler does not shoot at your neighbor?
Another hypothetical question: if I only cared about constant pressure and not about the life of my pump, can I simply use a prv only? Then the pump would turn on any time I use water, but the water will always be at 50psi no matter how many faucets are running. Is this correct?
with regards to your first question, the answer is yes, you could ad the additional PRV, but its only going to make a difference for a short period of time from when the tank goes from 60 to 50 on sprinkler startup.
As for question 2, you have not given me enough information, not sure what you mean, are you suggesting getting rid of the pressure tank? Try to be a bit more detailed in what you mean, what exactly the setup that you are suggesting is. But in general, if you put a 50 psi prv on the output side of course the pressure would not exceed 50, it could still go below 50 depending on the capacity of the pump.
@@LarryElterman RIght, I am asking: if I simply have a pump + prv set up without a tank or any other components, what other possible downsides could be other than shorter pump life span due to over working + frequent cycling. One other thing that comes to mind is build up of pressure after the prv because there is nowhere for excess pressure to relieve itself when temperature changes, but I'm not sure how serious that issue is given my set up will be 100% indoors. And thank you for the informative videos!
Cycle Stop Valve installation instructions, for using larger tanks, recommend setting pressure higher on CSV to keep pump time under 2 minutes when finishing filling tank. They have a chart for various tank sizes. The pump would not run for 15 Min like you stated if installed correctly.
Wow, congratulations, that actually makes some sense and I had not thought about that. I think it's the first time you actually had a legitimate answer to something I said. Well, raising the CSV pressure closer to the cutoff pressure would reduce tank fill up time I guess, but I don't think you can get the CSV pressure too close to the cut off pressure or you would risk the pressure switch kicking in while the pump was still running and your system would no longer be a Cycle Stop System. So I think you need some leeway. But good point. But you could do the same thing in my system to make the pump run time even less also. Give me a chance to do the math, tell me, if you have a 40/60 system with a 120 gallon tank as in my example, what does your chart say you are supposed to set the CSV pressure to? Give me an answer and I will do the math.
@@LarryElterman Yes they suggested to set the CSV closer to the cut off and I was wondering about that until I saw your explanation that the CSV will only allow 1gpm to flow to the tank if there is no tap open and that will take time to fill a bigger tank from the halfway point. I always wondered why the CSV man is very firm on NOT using a bigger tank but the reason is it will take time to fill it compared to the smaller tanks they sell. Now since I already purchased two CSV's I am thinking about incorporating your design, the solenoid and the flow switch so it will aid the CSV in letting in more water to fill the tank. I am sure your design will work! I was sold on the constant pressure they were selling although I wasn't sold on the less power consumption they mentioned. Great job in exposing the lies!
Didn’t you say cycle stops don't work? Im confused
I notice you never really solved the problem of stabilizing the pressure at 50 psi. The 60 to 40 variability still exists before the pump engages then finally stabilizes at 50. To resolve this, make the system a 50/70 psi range and set the prv to 60 psi. Add another prv after the pressure tank set to 50 psi. Perfectly stable water pressure of 50 psi at all times.
Hi. NICE! I think your idea will work! Did you see my other video titled "For Cycle Stop Valve Lovers: 5 Ways to Duplicate or Exceed CSV Functionality While Saving You Money!" at ruclips.net/video/YNfqvhb45yA/видео.html ? What you have done is combine my solution 2 with my solution 3 to create solution 6!
Did you try this? How did it work?
PRV on the wrong side of the pressure tank. Don't need the other valves.
You show a 120v valve being powered on a 240v pump circuit.
And does that matter? You are nit piking. The switch comes in both voltages depending on where you live. Would my system work or not? That is the question, not whether I mixed voltages in my diagram. So if I used a 220 volt Solenoid with my 220 volt pump, would the system work? That is the correct question.
OH, by the way? Where does it say the pump is 220 volts? I don't see anything in my video that says the pump is 220 volts. Where did you get that?
Ah, so I looked up the pump, and you are right, the pump is 220 volts, but it never says that in the video haha, you are funny. So let me get this straight, you are supposed to look up the pump on line, see that it is 220 volts, say ahaha, that does not match the solenoid, there fore the whole video is illegitimate! Quite a leap!
“ if anyone sees a problem let me know “
Looks like he let you know of the voltage discrepancy and you didn’t like it.
cycle gogogo valve😂
First of all, why would I take advice from someone that doesn't even know how to make simple 5 second adjustments to a lawn sprinkler head?
Second, an irrigation system should be set up so that the pump is not cycling on and off by simply adjusting the GPM of each zone through nozzle selection. If this can't be accomplished, then the sprinkler system was not properly designed.
Third, your yet to be proven idea involves two electrically operated devices and substantially more plumbing labor, electrical materials and labor and space.
Fourth, for the $44 difference in material costs and the increase in labor, I'd buy a complete product with only two fittings.
Fifth, if you think the pump will never stop because it won't reach 60 psi, why wouldn't you just adjust the pressure switch to 50psi?
Sixth, a 120 gallon tank is 26" x 62". That's huge. Where would most people put such a behemoth? Not to mention it costs over $1200.
1. what does lawn sprinker heads have to do with anything. Why don't you just say you would not take advice from a person that does not ride an elephant. Lawn sprinklers out of the blue with no context
2. What does setting up an irrigation system have to do with cycle stop valves. Again random stuff out of the blue without context or relating it to anything.
3. it does not require anymore space. and it not only costs less but works better. But yes it is more complicated..
4. why buy a product from a company whose main goal is to rip people off?
5. i have no idea what you are talking about, again random giberish with no context.
6. the big tank is just an example of one setup you could do. There are always trade offs in whatever you do.
7. I don't trust you, you sound like you work for cycle stop valves. :)
@@LarryElterman I like the idea of your valve setup. Have you tried this out yet? Just wanted to add in an irrigation system sprinkler head manufacturers make interchangable nozzles with different GPM ratings. These nozzles are used to balance out the water being distributed over a certain square footage and also used to control how many GPM the irrigation zone is running. I run an irrigation system from a well, 1.5hp pump, 25gal pressure tank, 40-60 pressure switch. My system was designed to run on city water with a total flow of about 14gpm (14gpm based on all nozzle gpms added together for the zone). When I had the well installed and began running irrigation, it cycled the pump about every minute and a half. My well driller/installer told me the pump needs to run continuously while irrigating. So I increased nozzle gpm until I had enough flow to keep the pressure tank from reaching 60 psi and the pump never shuts off the entire time the sprinklers are on. As soon as the sprinklers turn off the tank is immediately filled and pump shuts off. So long story short I was able to stop the cycling by increasing the flow through the sprinkler heads. The distance of the throw of water from the head can be adjusted some with a diffusing screw if they are spraying too far.
I’ve been considering a CSV and decided to come see what RUclips had to offer on the subject. There really is only two sources of information on here. Videos by you and by CSV. The CSV videos are not objective at all. You have a great idea here that I think I’m going to try. But man, let me tell you something. All your videos could be cut down to a third of the time of you didn’t ramble so much while on your soap box and pick up the pace. You talk so slow. I’ll put this together this week and tell you how it works.
First reply to your comment, about you trying to do my idea: So glad you will try my idea, I do hope it works well. You say your are going to try this weekend. Does that mean you already have the parts? Were you able to find the parts at a normal store? How did you get the parts so quickly, Please tell me what exactly is your use and how it works out for you, I am very curious.
Second reply to your comment: About my pacing. Actually I agree with you, I came to the same conclusion myself, my videos are like I have a captive audience in a classroom. I do not. So I accept your criticism and I will try to up my pace in future videos. Just curious, I totally agree with you on most of my CSV videos, but I thought the one about how to make your own cycle stop valve was a little better paced. Did you still think even that one was too slow? I value your opinion, let me know honestly.
I admire your humility. Most would be put off by my criticism. I was a bit in a mood yesterday. Most the parts are available at a plumbing store. I’m building a house right now and have my well hooked up. But it’s just plugged into an extension cord wired up to a 220 breaker and I’m using a hose to fill my freshwater tank on my RV.
@@decepticon4ever did it work?
@@decepticon4ever also curious. I'm about to try this setup too.