Nice video, simple and informative, and I like the music (which I don't usually). If welding the die together is not an available option, it could also be made by threading the pipe and plate and screwing them together.
Fascinating idea to learn along with you Mitch. This video was incredibly interesting and informative and enjoyable. Can’t wait for the next in this series!
Super happy about the new content! I’m building my first ‘chairs’ this spring by starting with perch stools. So I’ll have plenty of repeated experience with my offset right handed hewing axe, froe, adze, scorp, bent gouges, travisher, taper reamer, tenoning jigs, drawshaves, etc… I figure working on perch stools is a cheaper place to start before moving to more expensive seat blanks, bending, etc that I’ll have to do for proper chairs. I’m using Peter Galbert’s instruction primarily, but also too James Mursell. I noticed you didn’t (or missed it if you did), mention how wet/seasoned the timber was you used in this video. I assume it was wet, which means it’s not going to be used for say, drawbores, no? I’m thinking that if I were to rive out a bunch of peg blanks at maybe +30% size and then let them season up before I drive them through my dowel plate, then they’d be perfect for drawbore. Not straight away though, or they’d shrink and be loose. Maybe I’m just jumping too far ahead in what you may have planned. It’s just taken me a few months to put together my green woodworking kit (the travisher took the longest to get and I barely got my scorps through customs coming out of Ukraine before the war started, but they did arrive nonetheless). Since my dowel plate only goes up to 5/8”, I think I’ll certainly try making only of these for at least 3/4” I really like the idea of working with components and joints in various states of moisture, so as to use the benefit of say, a wetter mortise with a drier tenon and how that builds such a rock solid joint. Also, how the very straightest of grain and how even in small diameter, they can be used in such strong supports…So, anyway Mitch, I’m excited about my newest efforts (obviously) and was super excited to see you delving into the same. Thank you again as always, I sincerely enjoy all your many years of content, refer back to/rewatch often, and I’m always super happy to see what you post next. I’ve got a family trip to our cabin in the Smokey’s this next week and I already know of a recently downed walnut and sycamore I plan to harvest much of while I’m there. I’ve got the timber I’m making my shaving horse from (cherry/pecan) almost to the right moisture level acclimating in the shop and will build that the second week of April (I’ve been using a table top version of what some call a shaving pony; it sits into a dog hole and is held with a holdfast atop the bench with a levered arm that extends to the floor to manipulate the bracing mechanism atop the pony). A very happy spring to you and yours brother 👍 V/R, Shannon
Hey Shannon, Sounds like you're ahead of me with tooling and research. Aside from log splitting, cleaving and a little green turning, this is all new to me. I'll be learning as I go, and making more complex items. Let's face it, pegs are pretty simple. Yes, the wood was green; about four weeks since felling. It was winter felled, so not as wet as it could be. I've improved on the setup now, with a slotted chopping block that allows the pegs to come straight through and drop out. The pegs will dry out slightly oblong. Fine for green draw boring I believe. I'll have to try that out. Enjoy the Smokeys
simple - yet so eloquent. its so satisfying making things with your own two hands
Yellow birch? Wonderful mind-candy!
Nice work ! 👍🇬🇧
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice video, simple and informative, and I like the music (which I don't usually).
If welding the die together is not an available option, it could also be made by threading the pipe and plate and screwing them together.
Threading sounds a much better idea for me with my welding skills!
Fascinating idea to learn along with you Mitch. This video was incredibly interesting and informative and enjoyable. Can’t wait for the next in this series!
Cheers. I hope others will feel the same, but I shall also be continuing with some of the usual content.
@@mitchwoodwork thats a WIN WIN for us mate!
What a great way and save money and make what ever type you want
Indeed, other shapes available!
That’s pretty cool!
Cheers Helen
Outstanding…love smart methods. 🤔☕️🎩✊
Cheers John
Super happy about the new content! I’m building my first ‘chairs’ this spring by starting with perch stools. So I’ll have plenty of repeated experience with my offset right handed hewing axe, froe, adze, scorp, bent gouges, travisher, taper reamer, tenoning jigs, drawshaves, etc… I figure working on perch stools is a cheaper place to start before moving to more expensive seat blanks, bending, etc that I’ll have to do for proper chairs. I’m using Peter Galbert’s instruction primarily, but also too James Mursell. I noticed you didn’t (or missed it if you did), mention how wet/seasoned the timber was you used in this video. I assume it was wet, which means it’s not going to be used for say, drawbores, no? I’m thinking that if I were to rive out a bunch of peg blanks at maybe +30% size and then let them season up before I drive them through my dowel plate, then they’d be perfect for drawbore. Not straight away though, or they’d shrink and be loose. Maybe I’m just jumping too far ahead in what you may have planned. It’s just taken me a few months to put together my green woodworking kit (the travisher took the longest to get and I barely got my scorps through customs coming out of Ukraine before the war started, but they did arrive nonetheless). Since my dowel plate only goes up to 5/8”, I think I’ll certainly try making only of these for at least 3/4” I really like the idea of working with components and joints in various states of moisture, so as to use the benefit of say, a wetter mortise with a drier tenon and how that builds such a rock solid joint. Also, how the very straightest of grain and how even in small diameter, they can be used in such strong supports…So, anyway Mitch, I’m excited about my newest efforts (obviously) and was super excited to see you delving into the same. Thank you again as always, I sincerely enjoy all your many years of content, refer back to/rewatch often, and I’m always super happy to see what you post next. I’ve got a family trip to our cabin in the Smokey’s this next week and I already know of a recently downed walnut and sycamore I plan to harvest much of while I’m there. I’ve got the timber I’m making my shaving horse from (cherry/pecan) almost to the right moisture level acclimating in the shop and will build that the second week of April (I’ve been using a table top version of what some call a shaving pony; it sits into a dog hole and is held with a holdfast atop the bench with a levered arm that extends to the floor to manipulate the bracing mechanism atop the pony). A very happy spring to you and yours brother 👍
V/R, Shannon
Hey Shannon, Sounds like you're ahead of me with tooling and research. Aside from log splitting, cleaving and a little green turning, this is all new to me. I'll be learning as I go, and making more complex items. Let's face it, pegs are pretty simple.
Yes, the wood was green; about four weeks since felling. It was winter felled, so not as wet as it could be. I've improved on the setup now, with a slotted chopping block that allows the pegs to come straight through and drop out.
The pegs will dry out slightly oblong. Fine for green draw boring I believe. I'll have to try that out.
Enjoy the Smokeys
Great video Mitch. My welding is similar to yours and has been described as birdshit!
I took a short course ten years ago, but clearly I forgot all I learnt 🤣
The reviewer of my welding added the descriptor 'from one thousand feet'!