This couldn’t have come at a better time, I’m dropping the trans over the next week to swap in a torque converter and a new rear diff on my A4 C5. Subbed.
Starting my repair Today my trans is draining trans fluid as I type! I watched several videos to get tips and tricks! Your Video is quick and very informative! Mine wont shift into 3rd gear so putting in used Transmission! Thanks for awesome video! Keep up Good work!🤙👌
I appreciate that! Good luck! My parts should be delivered today to fix mine. The plastic fork guides on the reverse fork were gone, so I’m hoping that’s the only issue with mine. Ripping it apart for reverse is much easier because it’s the last gear in the back. It can be accessed by pulling the rear cover off. Let me know how it goes. Are you going to pull your old one apart to see what failed?
Very impressive! I want to install a remote clutch bleeder, but after watching I think this project is above my capabilities. At least I know what is involved. Thanks
Thank you! Don’t sell yourself short, it’s very doable. I put a new slave cylinder in when putting back together and added the remote bleeder, definitely makes life a lot easier. Good luck with whatever you decide and thanks for watching.
Didn't know you could drop the transmission and torque tube without a lift. That's been the main reason for not getting a C5. Knowing now that it's possible, if a C5 comes up for sale at a decent price I may just get one now. Liked & subscribed. VT247
Blew my 3/4 on the auto within 500km of twin turbos so am going Manuel. Dropped the autos a few times but never a manuel. Really helpful and great short vid straight to the point. Will tackle tomorrow. Thanks from New Zealand.
I had to do that 3 or 4 times on my 98. Once I Installed the Magnuson tranny and clutch issues came on a routine basis. I was quite good at starting the Clutch job Sat Morning and having it back together Sun Night as it was my Daily driver. Great Video on all the little details. I was able to drop the Suspension, transaxle, and Torque tube all at once and back just enough to replace a blown out thrust bearing which had a oil leak. Of course I was a lot younger. In my 2 car garage, 2 floor jacks, 4 jack stands and a low profile creeper. At one point with the rear end guts I was doing something in the rear of the car on my back and the rear end started to LIFT! I reached up and pulled the rear end back down. The whole car was tittering on the front jack stands!!!!!!!!!!! I quickly added a floor jack to the front center suspension to keep it stable. That was Scary!! Be safe. Dennis in Virginia
Yeah, getting these cars up in the air is the worst part of this job. I’ve done it on a lift once with a buddy’s car. The lift and a second set of hands makes a big difference.
Probably only added 15 minutes to the total job doing it this way. I had the transmission and torque tube apart too, so it had to broken down anyway. I'm sure I'll break it again tho, I'll try it that way next time.
Thank you, I really appreciate that. Good luck. Just take your time, it’s not hard at all. If you have any questions feel free to reach out on here or you can pm me on Facebook or instagram. Same name on both accounts.
Great video! PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE is a trade name of Harbor Freight. That Transmission jack is about as American as Wonton soup. It's straight from china just like 99% of Harbor Freights inventory.
Thank you! Yeah, I know. A lot of the Pittsburgh stuff is hit or miss but for as cheap as it was it made it a lot easier than the last time I did it with a floor jack. Thanks for watching!
I have a rear main seal leak (or cover or something on the rear of the motor - can't see in there, no matter what all this has to come out) and dread it. This is a little more disassembly but seems better for the at home guy that pulling the whole damn thing at once. Bite sized chunks. easier to manage. Good stuff.
Yeah, unfortunately all of it’s gotta come out. If you’re doing it solo, it’s a lot easier to break it up and do it in pieces I think. It’s not a bad job, just take your time and keep track of all hardware and you’ll be fine. While you have everything apart it’s a good time to inspect your clutch, throw out bearing and torque tube and just upgrade while you have it apart. Good luck, hope you get it fixed soon.
Also, make sure it isn’t just the oil pressure sending unit that’s leaking. They sell a uv dye you can add to the oil. Once you add it and run the car you can use a black light flashlight when it’s dark to identify if it’s in fact leaking from up top.
@@automotivechaos I was just under there the other day, and I'm PRETTY sure it's not that. I am aware those are a problem and it's really hard to see in a C5 thanks to the cowl, but it's PISSING oil out the corner of the rear near the starter and some on the other side. I'd think it would be more on the driver side if it leaked there but you never know how these things flow. I'll have to figure out how to take a better look tho before I dive in since I'd be really mad if it wasnt the rear after doing all that.
@@automotivechaos In replying, i just had a thought.... there didn't seem to be much in the little bottom inspection plug the autos have... I'd think a rear main leak would have that space chock full of oil and washed down crud. Maybe it IS up top somewhere and leaking down and around the bellhousing.... I need to scope it out more.
This was a great video with excellent camera shots. I would love to be able to replace my own clutch and rebuild my own torque tube and this video gives me the confidence that the job can be done in my garage.
Great quuk video that covers everything but ill add that you dont have to remove the shift cable from the shift lever you can easily remove it from the transmission first air will be less to mess with and you can remove it from shift lever later if you wanted to.
Thank you! Can you? The only way I saw to remove it from the transmission was a roll pin thru the shift linkage. Are you talking about an automatic? That I could see being easier to disconnect on the transmission but I’ve done this a few times and never saw a way to do it on a 6 speed. Either way, thanks for watching!
Yes I should have specified that I was talking about the automatic. In fact I just did another one a couple days ago because the rear seal went out on this car and the only way to get to it is to drop the torque tube. Seems like alot to do but if you've dont it a few times ita nothing to just remove the rear suspension and transmission whenever you've got to do work under these cars.
Thanks man! It’s the stock 99 controller, I just swapped the knobs out. Got them on Amazon. Ecloud Shop A/C Air Conditioning... www.amazon.com/dp/B07G25NZ1F?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Thank you! I used the metra double din bezel, the head unit is a pioneer avh-200ex. The hvac knobs are an Amazon item from a company e-cloud. They’re listed as fitting 2002-2006 Tacoma.
Mine does this sometimes. A far easier fix? Is to pull shifter into 4th before aiming for reverse. If it’s cold, not fully warmed up yet? go for 2nd. 😂
Lol I tried that too. Didn't matter what gear I shifted too first, it would grind like crazy. Thankfully the car is loud so people couldn't hear it...just thought I didn't know how to drive stick 😂
I replaced the solenoid as well. As far as putting it in another gear I was under the impression it wouldn’t help because reverse is also synchronized but I tried anyway and it would still grind. I pulled the trans apart in another video and found the plastic shift fork guides were broken.
Thank you! The hvac module is the stock analog one, I just changed the knobs out. You have to pull the metal retaining sleeves out of the stock knobs and insert then in the new ones. This is the link for the ones I purchased. Ecloud Shop Pack of 3 Control Knobs Dials Heater A/C, Replacement Knob for Tacoma & VIOS(2002-2006) Vela Vitz Yari -Replacement Air Conditioning Heat Control Switch Knob Button (Ungraded, Black) a.co/d/hkUYi3v
@@automotivechaos Awesome! That totally fooled me! But once I took a deeper look, I noticed that it was the original. Those knobs just make a world of difference! Appreciate you sharing the link.
@Joe Supina it's the stock hvac unit. Only thing I did was change the knobs. You have to pull the metal sleeves out of the stock knobs and insert them into the new ones. Once that's done they just press onto the hvac module. These are the knobs: amzn.to/3Vi4mni
It’s the factory one, I just changed the knobs. I’ve had more people ask about it. I’ll make a short video on it soon with a link to the knobs on Amazon.
Enjoyed watching your video. You make the job look like a piece of cake. You mentioned pulling the diff only earlier. That is my project. I need to reseal the trans output shaft (auto). Will the diff clear the trunk floor pan ok? Thanks Ed
Appreciate that, thank you! It will clear, but you will have to lower the driveline to clear the tub in the rear. That's why the shield that covers the torque tube needs to be removed so that you can tilt the entire assembly down. Just take it slow and periodically check firewall to intake clearance as you go. Good luck with your project, if you have any questions let me know!
Wish I had this video when I did mine. This is a must watch for anyone pulling the rear or trans out of one of these cars.
Break yours again so you can use it.
I’ll definitely enjoying watching you drive in reverse rather than pushing it back 😂
Lol me too!
This couldn’t have come at a better time, I’m dropping the trans over the next week to swap in a torque converter and a new rear diff on my A4 C5. Subbed.
Good luck! Appreciate it!
Starting my repair Today my trans is draining trans fluid as I type! I watched several videos to get tips and tricks! Your Video is quick and very informative! Mine wont shift into 3rd gear so putting in used Transmission! Thanks for awesome video! Keep up Good work!🤙👌
I appreciate that! Good luck! My parts should be delivered today to fix mine. The plastic fork guides on the reverse fork were gone, so I’m hoping that’s the only issue with mine. Ripping it apart for reverse is much easier because it’s the last gear in the back. It can be accessed by pulling the rear cover off. Let me know how it goes. Are you going to pull your old one apart to see what failed?
Very impressive! I want to install a remote clutch bleeder, but after watching I think this project is above my capabilities. At least I know what is involved. Thanks
Thank you! Don’t sell yourself short, it’s very doable. I put a new slave cylinder in when putting back together and added the remote bleeder, definitely makes life a lot easier. Good luck with whatever you decide and thanks for watching.
Didn't know you could drop the transmission and torque tube without a lift. That's been the main reason for not getting a C5. Knowing now that it's possible, if a C5 comes up for sale at a decent price I may just get one now. Liked & subscribed.
VT247
Appreciate that! Not too bad doing it on your back. Lift definitely makes things easier. Hope you find one!
"Let the neighbors know we're home" really got me haha
Lol got them too!
Blew my 3/4 on the auto within 500km of twin turbos so am going Manuel. Dropped the autos a few times but never a manuel. Really helpful and great short vid straight to the point. Will tackle tomorrow. Thanks from New Zealand.
Thank you and good luck!
I had to do that 3 or 4 times on my 98. Once I Installed the Magnuson tranny and clutch issues came on a routine basis. I was quite good at starting the Clutch job Sat Morning and having it back together Sun Night as it was my Daily driver. Great Video on all the little details. I was able to drop the Suspension, transaxle, and Torque tube all at once and back just enough to replace a blown out thrust bearing which had a oil leak. Of course I was a lot younger. In my 2 car garage, 2 floor jacks, 4 jack stands and a low profile creeper. At one point with the rear end guts I was doing something in the rear of the car on my back and the rear end started to LIFT! I reached up and pulled the rear end back down. The whole car was tittering on the front jack stands!!!!!!!!!!! I quickly added a floor jack to the front center suspension to keep it stable. That was Scary!! Be safe. Dennis in Virginia
Yeah, getting these cars up in the air is the worst part of this job. I’ve done it on a lift once with a buddy’s car. The lift and a second set of hands makes a big difference.
A lot more work than needed. I've done this qute a bit. you can leave the axles and suspension, torque tube and drop it all at once. super easy
Probably only added 15 minutes to the total job doing it this way. I had the transmission and torque tube apart too, so it had to broken down anyway. I'm sure I'll break it again tho, I'll try it that way next time.
Great video! I've been looking on how to do this - my c5 needs a similar transmission jobe done as well. Excellent work
Thank you, I really appreciate that. Good luck. Just take your time, it’s not hard at all. If you have any questions feel free to reach out on here or you can pm me on Facebook or instagram. Same name on both accounts.
Great video!
PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE is a trade name of Harbor Freight. That Transmission jack is about as American as Wonton soup. It's straight from china just like 99% of Harbor Freights inventory.
Thank you! Yeah, I know. A lot of the Pittsburgh stuff is hit or miss but for as cheap as it was it made it a lot easier than the last time I did it with a floor jack. Thanks for watching!
I have a rear main seal leak (or cover or something on the rear of the motor - can't see in there, no matter what all this has to come out) and dread it. This is a little more disassembly but seems better for the at home guy that pulling the whole damn thing at once. Bite sized chunks. easier to manage.
Good stuff.
Yeah, unfortunately all of it’s gotta come out. If you’re doing it solo, it’s a lot easier to break it up and do it in pieces I think. It’s not a bad job, just take your time and keep track of all hardware and you’ll be fine. While you have everything apart it’s a good time to inspect your clutch, throw out bearing and torque tube and just upgrade while you have it apart. Good luck, hope you get it fixed soon.
Also, make sure it isn’t just the oil pressure sending unit that’s leaking. They sell a uv dye you can add to the oil. Once you add it and run the car you can use a black light flashlight when it’s dark to identify if it’s in fact leaking from up top.
@@automotivechaos Its actually my wifes car, it's an auto, but yeah this is a big "While you are in there" situation.
@@automotivechaos I was just under there the other day, and I'm PRETTY sure it's not that. I am aware those are a problem and it's really hard to see in a C5 thanks to the cowl, but it's PISSING oil out the corner of the rear near the starter and some on the other side. I'd think it would be more on the driver side if it leaked there but you never know how these things flow. I'll have to figure out how to take a better look tho before I dive in since I'd be really mad if it wasnt the rear after doing all that.
@@automotivechaos In replying, i just had a thought.... there didn't seem to be much in the little bottom inspection plug the autos have... I'd think a rear main leak would have that space chock full of oil and washed down crud. Maybe it IS up top somewhere and leaking down and around the bellhousing.... I need to scope it out more.
This was a great video with excellent camera shots. I would love to be able to replace my own clutch and rebuild my own torque tube and this video gives me the confidence that the job can be done in my garage.
I really appreciate that. I have confidence in you, if you have any questions after you start feel free to reach out!
Good video. Thx for sharing.
Glad you liked it.
Did you have to remove the headers? Or just loosen the bolts?
I was able to just loosen them up. Had room to tilt them down and out of the way.
Great quuk video that covers everything but ill add that you dont have to remove the shift cable from the shift lever you can easily remove it from the transmission first air will be less to mess with and you can remove it from shift lever later if you wanted to.
Thank you! Can you? The only way I saw to remove it from the transmission was a roll pin thru the shift linkage. Are you talking about an automatic? That I could see being easier to disconnect on the transmission but I’ve done this a few times and never saw a way to do it on a 6 speed. Either way, thanks for watching!
Yes I should have specified that I was talking about the automatic. In fact I just did another one a couple days ago because the rear seal went out on this car and the only way to get to it is to drop the torque tube. Seems like alot to do but if you've dont it a few times ita nothing to just remove the rear suspension and transmission whenever you've got to do work under these cars.
@@jarvishamill7717 yeah, seems intimidating at first but not a bad job at all.
Bro! Where did you get your HVAC controller from? And how much was it? Looks clean
Thanks man! It’s the stock 99 controller, I just swapped the knobs out. Got them on Amazon. Ecloud Shop A/C Air Conditioning... www.amazon.com/dp/B07G25NZ1F?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Great video. What head unit and hvac knobs ?
Thank you! I used the metra double din bezel, the head unit is a pioneer avh-200ex. The hvac knobs are an Amazon item from a company e-cloud. They’re listed as fitting 2002-2006 Tacoma.
Where'd you get that shiftknob
That’s an MGW race knob.
Great video . Subbed. How long did this job take to pull it out?
Thank you! Took about 3 hours by myself, but I've done it before. Trans jack definitely made it easier this time around.
@@automotivechaos u sir are beast. Just grabbed my C5 go cart , has quite the .... storied history... I'm in MA though ... God Bless!
@@jeffsenecal4168 awesome! I'd love a vette cart one day!
If you live near Central Florida can I hire you to replace my clutch on my C5?
Unfortunately I'm in NY.
Mine does this sometimes. A far easier fix? Is to pull shifter into 4th before aiming for reverse. If it’s cold, not fully warmed up yet? go for 2nd. 😂
Lol I tried that too. Didn't matter what gear I shifted too first, it would grind like crazy. Thankfully the car is loud so people couldn't hear it...just thought I didn't know how to drive stick 😂
Aww damn, that sucks bro.
Had the same problem with my vet ended up being the reverse lockout sylinoid
Also once you relize where it needs to be to engage you can put it in another gear then it goes all the way I.
I replaced the solenoid as well. As far as putting it in another gear I was under the impression it wouldn’t help because reverse is also synchronized but I tried anyway and it would still grind. I pulled the trans apart in another video and found the plastic shift fork guides were broken.
Great video bro. Appreciate you doing it. I noticed your HVAC is a later model version. Do you have a video on changing that out?
Thank you! The hvac module is the stock analog one, I just changed the knobs out. You have to pull the metal retaining sleeves out of the stock knobs and insert then in the new ones. This is the link for the ones I purchased.
Ecloud Shop Pack of 3 Control Knobs Dials Heater A/C, Replacement Knob for Tacoma & VIOS(2002-2006) Vela Vitz Yari -Replacement Air Conditioning Heat Control Switch Knob Button (Ungraded, Black) a.co/d/hkUYi3v
@@automotivechaos Awesome! That totally fooled me! But once I took a deeper look, I noticed that it was the original. Those knobs just make a world of difference! Appreciate you sharing the link.
@@RicheySynthetics haha, yeah it definitely makes a difference!
Were did you purchase the HVAC unit and was it a simple plug and play.
@Joe Supina it's the stock hvac unit. Only thing I did was change the knobs. You have to pull the metal sleeves out of the stock knobs and insert them into the new ones. Once that's done they just press onto the hvac module.
These are the knobs: amzn.to/3Vi4mni
Where did you get your climate control panel?
It’s the factory one, I just changed the knobs. I’ve had more people ask about it. I’ll make a short video on it soon with a link to the knobs on Amazon.
Enjoyed watching your video. You make the job look like a piece of cake. You mentioned pulling the diff only earlier. That is my project. I need to reseal the trans output shaft (auto). Will the diff clear the trunk floor pan ok? Thanks Ed
Appreciate that, thank you! It will clear, but you will have to lower the driveline to clear the tub in the rear. That's why the shield that covers the torque tube needs to be removed so that you can tilt the entire assembly down. Just take it slow and periodically check firewall to intake clearance as you go. Good luck with your project, if you have any questions let me know!
after you do it 8 times on 3 different cars.. It becomes easy, and let me add on the floor as well
😂
Put it in reverse before cranking it
It did the same thing. Shifter fork bushing broke. It’s fixed now.
Great detailed video!! You have a subscribe from me.
@@hoobsgarage thank you! Much appreciated, hopefully it was useful!
There is not 647 of them it’s 34 bolts bro, 17 on each side 😂
🤣🤣 I know, just seems like a lot more when you’re on your back under there.