I can speak from personal experience. Cold shoe rods don't work well, because there is almost always lateral play due to minor variances in construction. This leads to them twisting out of tension with the follow focus the further out they sit on the rod. I would recommend a base plate rod system any-day over a cold shoe one.
Definitely sturdier with a base plate and longer rods. But sometimes It's nice to keep it small and compact. And if one is using photography lenses there's not a whole lot of pressure needed.
On the mounting for half-cage/cage with included rod system (no base plate rod system) blocking the HDMI door on FX-3/30s: I find the best way to work around this is getting a 1/4" thread adapter for the ARRI 3/8" hole (3/8" to 1/4"; In a local shop they sell them for 1.5€ individually, on amazon I could find a 6-set of them for about 5€) and use it on the hole that is just above the lowest hole on the left side, then mounting the thing just lower of the door. Make sure the adapters are thread adapters and not screw adapters - you want the holes to remain level on the Z-axis, so that the mounted nato rail is in contact with the cage and there is no play when mounted. Another thing you can do is just take the HDMI cover-door off the camera and mount as advertised; But removing the cover may affect warranty & safe storing for the little screws and door once you remove them is pain in the a- Hope this helps anyone else with this issue!
Thank you Thomas for this review, I'm still hesitating between this Smallrig one and the Tilta Nano II for focusing by myself when I'm in front of the camera. I think with the NATO rail I'm going to have the same issue on my XT4 rig especially that the lower screws are taken by the HDMI clamp. Smallrig could easily make extension plates for such cases because I noticed on their cages (I have 4), that as soon as I want to add lateral accessories, limitations start to show.
Ideally one would have both for remote focus pulls vs the times when you don’t want to be bothered with powering up things and remember to charge them for the next use ;) I've been looking at the Nano ii and the PDMOVIE live air because of the lidar which would be clutch when being in front of the camera. And the focus wheel is tiny so it can be mounted and handled easier on a gimbal without losing giving up one hand for just the focus. But still on the fence there. True, it's I'll have to test on my X-T4, good thing there, the flaps can be folded in behind the cage unlike the doors on the Sony
Hey Thomas, I noticed that you're using the K&F adapter on your Pentax lenses. I have this adapter and Pentax lenses and I strongly suggest you buy their other PK adapter. They have 2: one with an integrated aperture ring that is made for Pentax lenses without aperture ring, and another one that is just an simple adapter for lenses that have the ring. I almost broke my Pentax 50 by using this adapter with the ring because it was somehow forcing on the aperture tab. It didn't happen on my other lenses though but I preferred to buy 2 copies of the simpler adapter so I don't break the mechanisms on my Pentax lenses.
Thanks, i have been thinking about getting the other one just for the looks. Bought this one may 2020 and haven't had any issues (i have 7 different pk lenses) so never found the urge ;) Good to know, thanks for letting me know.
They should be about the same, but the convex wood handle on the F60 makes it look a little bulkier. The palm rest on the F60 is another factor obviously. But I can be detached when/if you don’t need it.
2:40 showing why I don’t like the F60 (I have used it). It’s got a little bit of play in the transmission. If it wouldn’t have that it would be the perfect follow focus
That's a great question - I agree, the AF is great on these cameras. However, manual focus gives you more control over your focus point and focus speed on the fly. It could be the speed and timing of a focus rack or maybe you want to shift focus from various parts or persons in the frame during a conversation or when they address a subject/prop. Or it could be that your subject is partially behind some type of foreground element the AF might want to jump to instead of sticking to your subject. Same thing if you want to make a reveal shot and don't want the focus to jump from the wall and then to your subject. Imagine holding your camera with one hand and constantly tapping on the display to shift focus in these situations vs. being able to keep the camera steady with two hands and rack focus when and where needed. ;)
I guess you could use it for zoom just as well if you’re using AF. Otherwise you'd probably want a wireless FIZ (Focus, Iris, Zoom) or at least FZ system
I can speak from personal experience. Cold shoe rods don't work well, because there is almost always lateral play due to minor variances in construction. This leads to them twisting out of tension with the follow focus the further out they sit on the rod. I would recommend a base plate rod system any-day over a cold shoe one.
Definitely sturdier with a base plate and longer rods. But sometimes It's nice to keep it small and compact. And if one is using photography lenses there's not a whole lot of pressure needed.
On the mounting for half-cage/cage with included rod system (no base plate rod system) blocking the HDMI door on FX-3/30s:
I find the best way to work around this is getting a 1/4" thread adapter for the ARRI 3/8" hole (3/8" to 1/4"; In a local shop they sell them for 1.5€ individually, on amazon I could find a 6-set of them for about 5€) and use it on the hole that is just above the lowest hole on the left side, then mounting the thing just lower of the door. Make sure the adapters are thread adapters and not screw adapters - you want the holes to remain level on the Z-axis, so that the mounted nato rail is in contact with the cage and there is no play when mounted.
Another thing you can do is just take the HDMI cover-door off the camera and mount as advertised; But removing the cover may affect warranty & safe storing for the little screws and door once you remove them is pain in the a-
Hope this helps anyone else with this issue!
I really think smallrig should include the thread adapter in the package for this very reason..
I have this follow focus for my FX3 and it’s absolutely amazing
It's soo nice!
Thank you Thomas for this review, I'm still hesitating between this Smallrig one and the Tilta Nano II for focusing by myself when I'm in front of the camera.
I think with the NATO rail I'm going to have the same issue on my XT4 rig especially that the lower screws are taken by the HDMI clamp. Smallrig could easily make extension plates for such cases because I noticed on their cages (I have 4), that as soon as I want to add lateral accessories, limitations start to show.
Ideally one would have both for remote focus pulls vs the times when you don’t want to be bothered with powering up things and remember to charge them for the next use ;)
I've been looking at the Nano ii and the PDMOVIE live air because of the lidar which would be clutch when being in front of the camera. And the focus wheel is tiny so it can be mounted and handled easier on a gimbal without losing giving up one hand for just the focus.
But still on the fence there.
True, it's I'll have to test on my X-T4, good thing there, the flaps can be folded in behind the cage unlike the doors on the Sony
Hey Thomas, I noticed that you're using the K&F adapter on your Pentax lenses. I have this adapter and Pentax lenses and I strongly suggest you buy their other PK adapter. They have 2: one with an integrated aperture ring that is made for Pentax lenses without aperture ring, and another one that is just an simple adapter for lenses that have the ring.
I almost broke my Pentax 50 by using this adapter with the ring because it was somehow forcing on the aperture tab. It didn't happen on my other lenses though but I preferred to buy 2 copies of the simpler adapter so I don't break the mechanisms on my Pentax lenses.
Thanks, i have been thinking about getting the other one just for the looks. Bought this one may 2020 and haven't had any issues (i have 7 different pk lenses) so never found the urge ;)
Good to know, thanks for letting me know.
Great video! 👍
Thank you! 👍
And thanks for helping me out
I struggle between F40 and F60, did you had chance to compare them in size? Not sure if F60 would not be 'too big' for small camera/rig...
They should be about the same, but the convex wood handle on the F60 makes it look a little bulkier. The palm rest on the F60 is another factor obviously. But I can be detached when/if you don’t need it.
Hello Great video.
Can I use the Smallrig F60 to Zoom In Out instead of the Focus
Yes, absolutely!
2:40 showing why I don’t like the F60 (I have used it). It’s got a little bit of play in the transmission. If it wouldn’t have that it would be the perfect follow focus
Interesting, I like the tiny amount of play. Let's my shaky hands stay on the wheel knob ;)
Can you put this device on the zoom ring of a lens instead to just have a more ergonomic zoom handle?
Yes exactly - like this 1:18
@@thomasfransson Thank you sir
You're most welcome
Why you need this if fx3/fx30 have great autofocus? Is vintage lenses the only reason?
That's a great question - I agree, the AF is great on these cameras.
However, manual focus gives you more control over your focus point and focus speed on the fly. It could be the speed and timing of a focus rack or maybe you want to shift focus from various parts or persons in the frame during a conversation or when they address a subject/prop.
Or it could be that your subject is partially behind some type of foreground element the AF might want to jump to instead of sticking to your subject. Same thing if you want to make a reveal shot and don't want the focus to jump from the wall and then to your subject.
Imagine holding your camera with one hand and constantly tapping on the display to shift focus in these situations vs. being able to keep the camera steady with two hands and rack focus when and where needed.
;)
Have you see it for zoom?
I guess you could use it for zoom just as well if you’re using AF. Otherwise you'd probably want a wireless FIZ (Focus, Iris, Zoom) or at least FZ system