I mean this nicely - your soldering would be much better if you applied solder to heated components instead of putting solder on the iron and then daubing it on. You’ll get more reliable connections more quickly. What you did here can easily have bad connections beneath the solder. I hope it’s all great but it’s not optimal. And the proper method is faster. Again, a friendly tip not a slag.
My dad was an electronics engineer since 1968 and told me the exact same thing. Pretty sure he also said that you generally don't want to resolder pots because the heat gets conducted through the components just like electricity so they degrade after multiple applications of solder.
@ricohgill6523 It’s true. The more times you solder onto a pot, especially the casing, the more risk you take of creating a dead spot in the taper. As a matter of course I always make sure they’re rolled all the way down to zero so any degradation isn’t really noticeable.
I thought he did. The initial blob of solder on the iron just helps with heat transfer and faster flowing. I have been building electronic thinogs for nearly 40 years and I always wet the iron tip first before soldering a joint. Also tin everything first.
@@AdamFisher the housing is barely connected to the taper and wiper. You'd have to fry the back of a pot for a while before any significant heat gets to the insides. These components are way sturdier than you give them credit for. Not to say you should fry them, a good soldering job is done quick anyways, but don't be too scared to damage anything inside a guitar. Other electronics components are way more sensitive - pots are not.
@@gerrykavanagh Take a look at how he soldered the tone cap. Pre-applied flux to the leg, tin only on the iron. He needs less tin on the iron and should feed more as the components have absorbed a bit of heat, just as you said. Also there would be no additional flux needed, there is enough inside the solder wire itself. The solder on the back of the pots hopefully holds, they were barely pre-heated. Also feel free to take a look at PsionicAudio's channel. I am sure he is on the same page as you and knows what he is talking about. Cheers!
the Grover tuners on the Daisy Rock Stardust Elite has those tuners that cut off the strings for you. my small brain was blown away by that, it should honestly be standard on most Locking Tuners tbh. A Daisy Rock which is known for children's instruments have better parts than any sub $400 guitar is pretty funny.
I wasn't sure about the fake wear on the pickups, but I do agree it matches the guitar. A pickup on a well-used and traveling guitar will look like this after 5-10 years too though.
@coldacre If you've seen Glenn, you know, the Glenn vibe It's that "loving the Ace Frehley cherry sunburst Les Paul so much that you put a ton of work into fixing it up even though it's a Chibson" kind of vibe To describe it any more explicitly than that would make it less special
lol Gibson gets us all in the end. I know people hate them, but when you find the “1” Gibson that speaks to you, you realize the search is worth it. They all aren’t made perfect, but it’s like finding that one person who just completes you. FYI yes I own other guitars but I reach for my LP more than anything
I have an SG Standard Limited from 2011. It's a darker red than the normal model. Love it. Bought it used for 650 Euros. I'd never buy a new one, though. I hate Gibson as a company.
I picked up a supposed 2002 SG standard on craigslist last week. It turns out to be real special. It is a custom shop walnut, I was not able to find a matching production model online. The back of the headstock has a spot of sticky adhesive where the custom shop sticker had once been, the owner had apparently pealed it off and engraved their name in pen in its place. They also pulled the pups out and put in SD hot rod set, which is fine, the seller gave me the original pickups as well. I dont know what they are, maybe a 500T? This guitar is a nasty beast. When I responded to the home of the seller I thought it was just an old SG standard and I was psyched. I was kind of bummed to see it was walnut but i bought it anyway, now I am in love with it.
Hate Gibsons with a passion considering the sloppy QC and shoddy workmanship I seen on them. I tried a lot. Fast forward last year I got an amazing deal on a Custom Shop Jr. My best sounding guitar and plays amazing. So yeah, when you find a good one, it's a keeper!
Fine example of why its important as good players to if not be able to work on their instruments, be at least able to know how and why their instruments work as they do.
Just spent my Saturday doing this in three ibanez guitars. You did a really good job! Can’t understate how much of a difference a variable temp soldering iron can make. I absolutely love salvaging old instruments and bringing them back to life. It’s really awesome that this guitar made it to you for you to do the same.
I have two flying v’s that I’ve modified with pic guards, Lollar p90’s, RS caps and pots and Bigsby B5’s. I play them through a tweed champ and tweed deluxe. I don’t need pedals. Crank the amp and use the tone and volume controls on the guitar. Super wombat tone monsters!
It is funny how a lot of people do not understand shielding when it comes to guitar electronics. All that is necessary is some shielding around the pots and switches, and the pickups need to be potted. If you want to completely shield the electronics from interference than you would need to shield over the pole pieces and the strings and even the bridge.
Humbuckers are usually shielded and have screened wire to connect to the pots (casings can be earthed) but, unless you use screened cable with your connections between the pots etc then you can get noise pickup here. Fender pups aren't shielded and usually just have two wires so you would benefit from cavity shielding here.
I am a Handyman. Anytime I am installing copper water inlet pipe, I apply flux at the joint. When I apply the solder, the flux wicks it into the joint like a paper towel. I've NEVER had a complaint about a leak. 😉 Whether plumbing or doing electronics, a HOT 🔥 High Wattage iron is ESSENTIAL. The "El Cheapo" irons simply do NOT get hot enough! A few members of my family worked at NORTHROP DEFENSE SYSTEMS DIVISION in the mid-1980's when they were building the B-2 Stealth Bomber. They all had to graduate "Soldering School" before they were allowed to make ANYTHING that would go into that bird. They were taught to: 1. Attach the two components. 2. Heat the connection with the soldering pencil. 3. Apply solder to the hot joint.
Looks great! With the Schaller strap locks, I would highly recommend putting a bit of Loctite on the grub screws that hold the nut in place on the strap. I’ve used Schallers previously and they have always come loose overtime even if I tightened them really well. I’ve switched to Dunlop strap locks now which I think are far superior for a lot of reasons, they use a Circlip instead of screws or nuts which do not come off easy! And the mechanism to release the strap is a much simpler push button design rather than the pull up pin design which can be a little annoying. It’s also a lower profile than the Schallers so especially on a neck heel strap pin, it may be less intrusive. They also make recessed ones which are really cool.
Also, unless the capacitor is polarised, technically it doesn’t matter which way it goes, the result will be the same. The types of capacitors used in guitars are almost never polarised, including the one you used. If someone told you it has a polarity, I’m wondering how since it’s not an electrolytic capacitor (which are almost always polarised).
You got a LOT of freebies for this project! Came out really good. HOWEVER, I thought thos BK pick ups sounded a tad dark clean, but were bright enough with OD on them! Nice job Kehlen! \m/
I just got done upgrading my Jackson King V a couple weeks ago. First major soldering experience, but it turned out awesome and it plays like a dream now!
the tuners not needing new screw holes was so satisfying, as someone who recently put new tuners on a cheap strat copy where i had to ream for the tuners and fill and redrill for the screws
Fabulous to see you modding this geetar sir :) Nothing like making your geetar your own, everyone should have a stab at this at some point or abother :) BK Pickups n the pots are always a good shout, stuck some cold sweats in my Gibson LP, an absolutely perfect match for how I play. Crackin vid as always sir :)
Nice job! Great choices, and the end result is just a fantastic dream guitar. Who wouldn’t want to play that Flying V in its current state?! The aging on those pickups are really well done if someone has a worn in guitar that would look weird with new pickups. I also love the tone knob. I never understand why people want guitars with just a volume pot. Maybe it’s because I don’t have a pedal board - but even with a pedal board, it gives you more room to find a neat tone, change the tone while playing without bending down and fumbling, and really dial in the sound with great detail overall. That subject would make for a great video! My service dog, Hughie says hey to your Squeak! He loves kitties!
I lost the washer for my strap lock at gig years ago... i hammered out a beer bottle top and punched a hole in centre of it. Still using it almost a decade later. I also resprayed my geddy lee jazz seafoam green after i threw in across the stage in a moment of punk rock idiocy and cracked the body. Im all for bodging instruments. Its part of journey.
This is what it's all about man. I remember my first time changing a pickup. Nerve wrecking lmao! All in the name of tone. This is one of the realest guitar videos haha
I agree with your choice of copper tape - it really does an excellent job. I think everything you did to the guitar was a definite improvement and now you've made me want to buy a Flying V. I really enjoy all your videos, thanks for making them.
I have a 2002 faded finish V with the crescent moon inlays. I wasn't crazy about the cherry finish either, and plastered it with stickers, which I normally would never do, and it gave it some stage pop. I liked the tone of the stock pickups.
I'm glad this video popped up for me. I'm putting a Flying V kit together and seeing the actual thing made me realize that my kit is like 7/8 size or something similar.
You just gave me a little more hope for soldering. Felt the same way. I use a Dunlop strap lock when the button is on the back if the guitar. Doesn’t stab any and I always use Schaller S-Locks besides. I put the button on the end of the upper wing, rather than the underside. It keeps the body into you instead of leaning away. I put those auto trims on my 70s Flying V as well. Love them. Those pickups sound great and awesome playing!
I'm also a suede-lining strap guy, after getting one 15 years ago and having my bass (or guitar) stick to me, even without something susceptible to neck dive, it feels really weird to have a regular slippery nylon strap. Which is a bummer sometimes as far as strap selection (WAY more options when you stay generic). That being said I have accumulated some Levy's (not Levi's like the jeans) wide suede ones since that first one (especially good with my weak frame, being wide) and can't image using anything else. I should probably grab another just to have around.
I could watch people mod guitars all day, just to see how they personalize them. Also, I love those auto trim tuners. I have a set back from when they were branded as Planet Waves tuners, and they're amazing.
ive also got an older gibson v , and i had to do all the same mods..pickups, bridge..tuners...they are great after you do some work on em. thanks. slick strap.
A couple of comments. No shielding is needed for humbuckers (or noiseless single coils). Their design eliminates hum and RF interference. Regular single coil pickups - yes, shielding can help depending on the environment. 15:1 Ratio tuners means it take 15 complete revolutions of the tuner button to get one full revolution of the shaft (post) that winds the string. 18:1 tuners take 18 full revolutions to rotate the tuner post one complete revolutions which means the 18:1 tuners are SLOWER winding the string onto the post than a 15:1 tuner. Because it is slower, it is more precise. Your were correct to replace the bent bridge. That was a bad bend. The saddles should not be straight across - they should follow the upward curve of the fretboard radius. Bridge roller saddles are designed to reduce sting friction when a string is pulled (or released) i.e. with a vibrato bar. Using a roller bridge on a guitar with a stop bar is not necessary. So why do manufacturers offer roller TOM bridges? If a guitar has a Bigsby vibrato bar, the rollers would help. In the last 10 years or so lap steel guitars with benders have become popular and roller bridges help in that application - TOM bridges are popular with lap steel builders. Good luck with your revitalized Flying V!
Shielding paint is generally just acrylic paint with graphite powder mixed in to make it conductive. Perhaps some contain some metal too but it's mostly just graphite as far as I know
That middle position clean sound was fantastic. As was the bridge at gain. "In The Studio, cleanliness is godliness" - a mentor said to me years ago while I was interning. Unfortunately, while I do a far better job than you lads! I still am guilty of being a bit messy at times.
You'd did a grand job, I've never been a massive fan of V's, just for the aesthetic, but this does look cool and more importantly it sounds awesome. Well done as ever :-)
The Nail Bombs sound fantastic, really good choice. The whole thing turned out killer really. I don’t know why more locking tuners don’t have an auto trim feature because that is genius.
While conductive paint or copper tape are decent options. Especially the tape is quite tedious and overkill. I think the PRS approach, just using shielded wire, does the same job with a lot less hassle.
I have had them same tuners on my Gibson for 11 years now and I love them never any issues . look into a string butler too gives you straight pull my legs Paul never goes out of tune
I love modifying guitars, messing around with the electronics and shielding ! I like the 'Vintage' brand which are cheap enough to experiment with, installing original, second-hand Gibson or Fender pickups. Makes a great guitar for about 250 quid.
Nice to see you finally finding your dream guitar. I personally don't like the shape too much but I do know that the higher fret accessibility is something to consider.
Moving the strap button on the top wing closer to the bridge helps with balance and brings the bridge more to the right making you feel less like you are reaching for it.
FYI for everyone.You don't need to spend a bunch of money on that conductive shielding paint,it's stupid expensive for that small bottle. I just mix some fine graphite powder in black acrylic paint and you are good to go. Test with a multimeter for continuity when done. Way cheaper and you get 10× as much.
@@KDH The main thing to be concerned about with copper tape (for shielding) is that the adhesive is conductive, otherwise it acts as a barrier between the overlapping copper layers, breaking up the effectiveness of the cage.
@@KDH Did you check with a multimeter to make sure you had continuity wherever you touched on it? Many copper tapes don't have conductive adhesive. Also you need to have a path to ground from the tape, so a wire going from the tape to a ground point, otherwise all you've done is make a big antenna, it has to transfer the excess noise to ground. I only know these things as I'm full time guitar tech.
That's a great modding video, thanks for sharing. I personally would have used a different brand of tuners and bridge. The D'addarios are great for the first few months but after that, the locking mechanism (the pins) deform and the high e and b strings starts slipping as they don't lock the strings in anymore. Also the bridge is cool but really annoying if you need to tweak it on the fly. If you end up changing it and still want to rollerbridge, I highly recommend one from ABM. It's expensive but high quality. If if you want a cheaper one, the Göldo TOM Rollerbridge is also great but may not fit the radius of your fretboard as it's made for 14''. Anyways, hope you enjoy your ''new'' guitar!
I have had a hell,of a time finding long enough straps too. I’m good now, but I spent 30 minutes in a store going through all of them with a tape measure.
I always admire those who do their own upgrades and repairs, im useless i have no confidence - and quite rightly, i also have no ability either! I got myself a gretsch a while back, i love it - but...im sure it does need some work at the nut, open chords just dont quite sound in tune, think its too high. If ever you are doing any similar adjustments id be all over it!
That V looks and sounds awesome!! I’ve been thinking about getting a classic V lately, but so hard to find for cheap. Maybe I’ll find an old Epiphone. So many guitars, such little time.
Hi Squeaky. I have loved your channel for quite some time, now subscribed for Squeaky. Great work on the guitar, those Bare Knuckle fit just right in, sweet look.
Sounds amazing!! I love Gibsons.. I actually think because they can be so hit and miss that it makes it really special when ya find a great one or make a great one.. Badass guitar dude.. Congrats!!
The best guitar I have ever played was a 70s white Gibson Flying V in a recording studio in Pforzheim, Germany, about 25 years ago. What a neck, played itself, it did. Thing is, I hate Flying Vs, murder to get comfortable with, especially sitting down... Still the best. Nice job on the upgrading front, like that bridge.
For what I could see you swapped a ceramic 20 nF cap (203M code) for an oil-filled 22 nF cap. Sure, it will last longer since it's a higher quality cap, but unless you change the nF value you won't notice a difference in the tone. With a 22 or lower nf capacitor you'll have a very controlled and subtle tone roll off, but if you go for a 47 or higher you'll have a stronger roll off of high-frequencies
fyi 15:1 means that the knob or button must be turned 15 times to make the string post complete one revolution. cool video! I'm glad that lovely guitar is getting the attention she deserves!
Liked for Squeaky
He appreciates it greatly 🐈
My little cat has a crush on Squeaky.
KDH : I’m not a fan of this pickup ....
Glenn Fricker : I’m not a fan of ANY PICKUPS ....start yelling
@@hellofx AAAARRRRGGHHHHH!!!! \m/
@@KDH More cats = more likes.
I mean this nicely - your soldering would be much better if you applied solder to heated components instead of putting solder on the iron and then daubing it on. You’ll get more reliable connections more quickly.
What you did here can easily have bad connections beneath the solder. I hope it’s all great but it’s not optimal. And the proper method is faster.
Again, a friendly tip not a slag.
My dad was an electronics engineer since 1968 and told me the exact same thing. Pretty sure he also said that you generally don't want to resolder pots because the heat gets conducted through the components just like electricity so they degrade after multiple applications of solder.
@ricohgill6523
It’s true. The more times you solder onto a pot, especially the casing, the more risk you take of creating a dead spot in the taper. As a matter of course I always make sure they’re rolled all the way down to zero so any degradation isn’t really noticeable.
I thought he did. The initial blob of solder on the iron just helps with heat transfer and faster flowing. I have been building electronic thinogs for nearly 40 years and I always wet the iron tip first before soldering a joint. Also tin everything first.
@@AdamFisher the housing is barely connected to the taper and wiper. You'd have to fry the back of a pot for a while before any significant heat gets to the insides. These components are way sturdier than you give them credit for. Not to say you should fry them, a good soldering job is done quick anyways, but don't be too scared to damage anything inside a guitar. Other electronics components are way more sensitive - pots are not.
@@gerrykavanagh Take a look at how he soldered the tone cap. Pre-applied flux to the leg, tin only on the iron. He needs less tin on the iron and should feed more as the components have absorbed a bit of heat, just as you said. Also there would be no additional flux needed, there is enough inside the solder wire itself. The solder on the back of the pots hopefully holds, they were barely pre-heated.
Also feel free to take a look at PsionicAudio's channel. I am sure he is on the same page as you and knows what he is talking about. Cheers!
My head fell off with those string cutting tuners! Never knew they existed.
Dude same
the Grover tuners on the Daisy Rock Stardust Elite has those tuners that cut off the strings for you. my small brain was blown away by that, it should honestly be standard on most Locking Tuners tbh. A Daisy Rock which is known for children's instruments have better parts than any sub $400 guitar is pretty funny.
They're cool, but remember NOT to use dr strings with those. They will unwind.
Well Planet waves and Gotoh are making these aborto 25 years now
BIG rock!
Big up to Bare Knuckle, sending their stuff to this absolute renaissance man 👊
I wasn't sure about the fake wear on the pickups, but I do agree it matches the guitar. A pickup on a well-used and traveling guitar will look like this after 5-10 years too though.
Pleasantly surprised to see Glenn show up. Glen is a vibe 🤘
what kind of vibe? its a bit like saying "this food is a flavour", "this painting is a colour".
@coldacre If you've seen Glenn, you know, the Glenn vibe
It's that "loving the Ace Frehley cherry sunburst Les Paul so much that you put a ton of work into fixing it up even though it's a Chibson" kind of vibe
To describe it any more explicitly than that would make it less special
@@coldacre BTW Glen is also a flavor
**Sniffs the guitar strap consistently**
lol Gibson gets us all in the end. I know people hate them, but when you find the “1” Gibson that speaks to you, you realize the search is worth it. They all aren’t made perfect, but it’s like finding that one person who just completes you. FYI yes I own other guitars but I reach for my LP more than anything
I have an SG Standard Limited from 2011. It's a darker red than the normal model. Love it. Bought it used for 650 Euros. I'd never buy a new one, though. I hate Gibson as a company.
@@mrcoatsworth429 agree the company and its catering to collectors is cringy, but damn I love my LP
I picked up a supposed 2002 SG standard on craigslist last week.
It turns out to be real special.
It is a custom shop walnut, I was not able to find a matching production model online.
The back of the headstock has a spot of sticky adhesive where the custom shop sticker had once been, the owner had apparently pealed it off and engraved their name in pen in its place.
They also pulled the pups out and put in SD hot rod set, which is fine, the seller gave me the original pickups as well. I dont know what they are, maybe a 500T?
This guitar is a nasty beast.
When I responded to the home of the seller I thought it was just an old SG standard and I was psyched. I was kind of bummed to see it was walnut but i bought it anyway, now I am in love with it.
Gibsons are the best in my opinion. I only play gibson les pauls.
Hate Gibsons with a passion considering the sloppy QC and shoddy workmanship I seen on them. I tried a lot.
Fast forward last year I got an amazing deal on a Custom Shop Jr.
My best sounding guitar and plays amazing. So yeah, when you find a good one, it's a keeper!
Fine example of why its important as good players to if not be able to work on their instruments, be at least able to know how and why their instruments work as they do.
you can buy solder with flux in its center, rosin or acid core is usually what its called.
Just spent my Saturday doing this in three ibanez guitars. You did a really good job! Can’t understate how much of a difference a variable temp soldering iron can make. I absolutely love salvaging old instruments and bringing them back to life. It’s really awesome that this guitar made it to you for you to do the same.
Gotta respect a man this committed to the color orange. The watch strap is one thing, a color-matched kitty is legendary.
A TP-6 tailpiece would finish this off nicely
I have two flying v’s that I’ve modified with pic guards, Lollar p90’s, RS caps and pots and Bigsby B5’s. I play them through a tweed champ and tweed deluxe. I don’t need pedals. Crank the amp and use the tone and volume controls on the guitar. Super wombat tone monsters!
Imagine that! P90s in a V!
It is funny how a lot of people do not understand shielding when it comes to guitar electronics. All that is necessary is some shielding around the pots and switches, and the pickups need to be potted. If you want to completely shield the electronics from interference than you would need to shield over the pole pieces and the strings and even the bridge.
Humbuckers are usually shielded and have screened wire to connect to the pots (casings can be earthed) but, unless you use screened cable with your connections between the pots etc then you can get noise pickup here. Fender pups aren't shielded and usually just have two wires so you would benefit from cavity shielding here.
I am a Handyman. Anytime I am installing copper water inlet pipe, I apply flux at the joint. When I apply the solder, the flux wicks it into the joint like a paper towel. I've NEVER had a complaint about a leak. 😉
Whether plumbing or doing electronics, a HOT
🔥 High Wattage iron is ESSENTIAL. The "El Cheapo" irons simply do NOT get hot enough!
A few members of my family worked at NORTHROP DEFENSE SYSTEMS DIVISION in the mid-1980's when they were building the B-2 Stealth Bomber. They all had to graduate "Soldering School" before they were allowed to make ANYTHING that would go into that bird. They were taught to:
1. Attach the two components.
2. Heat the connection with the soldering pencil.
3. Apply solder to the hot joint.
I bought a Les Paul Standard many years ago that came with a set of BK Rebel Yells in it and they sound so good.
Italia straps are the best ones I've ever had, they're on all my guitars. And I've paid for them. (No-one paid me too say this is what I'm saying...)
Nothing beats buying a guitar and modding to your liking to effectively make it *your* guitar. Nice video, and congrats on your new purchase!
Having sex with Miss World while her mother films it comes pretty close.
I definitely need one of those straps too!
Nice job you did a fantastic job on the guitar sounds great one of my favorite video you have done thank you.
Looks great! With the Schaller strap locks, I would highly recommend putting a bit of Loctite on the grub screws that hold the nut in place on the strap. I’ve used Schallers previously and they have always come loose overtime even if I tightened them really well. I’ve switched to Dunlop strap locks now which I think are far superior for a lot of reasons, they use a Circlip instead of screws or nuts which do not come off easy! And the mechanism to release the strap is a much simpler push button design rather than the pull up pin design which can be a little annoying. It’s also a lower profile than the Schallers so especially on a neck heel strap pin, it may be less intrusive. They also make recessed ones which are really cool.
Also, unless the capacitor is polarised, technically it doesn’t matter which way it goes, the result will be the same. The types of capacitors used in guitars are almost never polarised, including the one you used. If someone told you it has a polarity, I’m wondering how since it’s not an electrolytic capacitor (which are almost always polarised).
Use a matchstick or toothpick with some wood glue before you drive in the screw to the straplock
You got a LOT of freebies for this project!
Came out really good.
HOWEVER, I thought thos BK pick ups sounded a tad dark clean, but were bright enough with OD on them!
Nice job Kehlen!
\m/
I just got done upgrading my Jackson King V a couple weeks ago. First major soldering experience, but it turned out awesome and it plays like a dream now!
the tuners not needing new screw holes was so satisfying, as someone who recently put new tuners on a cheap strat copy where i had to ream for the tuners and fill and redrill for the screws
Should have bought metric.
Fabulous to see you modding this geetar sir :)
Nothing like making your geetar your own, everyone should have a stab at this at some point or abother :)
BK Pickups n the pots are always a good shout, stuck some cold sweats in my Gibson LP, an absolutely perfect match for how I play.
Crackin vid as always sir :)
Thank you for making me feel better about how much solder I use. 😊
Nice job! Great choices, and the end result is just a fantastic dream guitar. Who wouldn’t want to play that Flying V in its current state?!
The aging on those pickups are really well done if someone has a worn in guitar that would look weird with new pickups.
I also love the tone knob. I never understand why people want guitars with just a volume pot. Maybe it’s because I don’t have a pedal board - but even with a pedal board, it gives you more room to find a neat tone, change the tone while playing without bending down and fumbling, and really dial in the sound with great detail overall. That subject would make for a great video!
My service dog, Hughie says hey to your Squeak! He loves kitties!
I lost the washer for my strap lock at gig years ago... i hammered out a beer bottle top and punched a hole in centre of it. Still using it almost a decade later. I also resprayed my geddy lee jazz seafoam green after i threw in across the stage in a moment of punk rock idiocy and cracked the body. Im all for bodging instruments. Its part of journey.
You are truly one of my favorite RUclipsrs. Always no nonsense and quality guitar related content. Thanks Brother!
This is what it's all about man. I remember my first time changing a pickup. Nerve wrecking lmao! All in the name of tone. This is one of the realest guitar videos haha
I just found your channel, I hope you will be more popular, cause your work worth it.
I agree with your choice of copper tape - it really does an excellent job. I think everything you did to the guitar was a definite improvement and now you've made me want to buy a Flying V. I really enjoy all your videos, thanks for making them.
You chose my absolute favorite tuners. I have them on 6 of my guitars. Only ones they’re not on are the Gibsons that I want to keep “vintage” looking.
Nice mods... I originally thought you were going to paint 🎨🖌️ it as well... Or buff it out... You kept it Vintage.. Cheers 🍻 🥃🥃 🎸 🎵🎶🎶🎶🎶
I have a 2002 faded finish V with the crescent moon inlays. I wasn't crazy about the cherry finish either, and plastered it with stickers, which I normally would never do, and it gave it some stage pop. I liked the tone of the stock pickups.
Great content! It's fantastic to see this come to fruition.
I have those same tuners on my tele and I love them.
Thanks for making this video! I bought a cheap V copy with a really great neck and frets. I will be upgrading it and this video is extremely helpful!
I'm glad this video popped up for me. I'm putting a Flying V kit together and seeing the actual thing made me realize that my kit is like 7/8 size or something similar.
Sounds great! Making me want another V……..
Exactly what a V should be, mean, vicious and fantastic sounding! Fantastic job with the upgrades and repairs!
You just gave me a little more hope for soldering. Felt the same way.
I use a Dunlop strap lock when the button is on the back if the guitar. Doesn’t stab any and I always use Schaller S-Locks besides. I put the button on the end of the upper wing, rather than the underside. It keeps the body into you instead of leaning away.
I put those auto trims on my 70s Flying V as well. Love them.
Those pickups sound great and awesome playing!
I'm also a suede-lining strap guy, after getting one 15 years ago and having my bass (or guitar) stick to me, even without something susceptible to neck dive, it feels really weird to have a regular slippery nylon strap. Which is a bummer sometimes as far as strap selection (WAY more options when you stay generic). That being said I have accumulated some Levy's (not Levi's like the jeans) wide suede ones since that first one (especially good with my weak frame, being wide) and can't image using anything else. I should probably grab another just to have around.
You need a Sully Revolution... Or a Concorde. :) And Glenn needs an Elita.
I covered a whole guitar in copper shielding tape. Sprayed it with 5 coats of lacquer and buffed. It's a favorite.
Loved the video!! Now I need a Flying V!
So sick man!! Thanks for taking us along the upgrade journey and the demos. Your album preview sounded kickass!
I’ve had success bending a collapsed bridge back into shape with a vice. You have nothing to lose.
You know you did a good job when you kitty cat overlord given it's "sniff of approval" as seen at the 25:30 mark.
nice job KDH!
Good job, very good upgrades, and professional results on the shielding and soldering. Definitely not your first rodeo!
Always happy to wake up sundays and seeing a new KDH video!
you are correct about the tuners they look great
Sik upgrades bro, sounds savage
I enjoyed that. Well chosen upgrades/replacements and it looks and sounds great.
I could watch people mod guitars all day, just to see how they personalize them. Also, I love those auto trim tuners. I have a set back from when they were branded as Planet Waves tuners, and they're amazing.
ive also got an older gibson v , and i had to do all the same mods..pickups, bridge..tuners...they are great after you do some work on em. thanks. slick strap.
A couple of comments. No shielding is needed for humbuckers (or noiseless single coils). Their design eliminates hum and RF interference. Regular single coil pickups - yes, shielding can help depending on the environment.
15:1 Ratio tuners means it take 15 complete revolutions of the tuner button to get one full revolution of the shaft (post) that winds the string. 18:1 tuners take 18 full revolutions to rotate the tuner post one complete revolutions which means the 18:1 tuners are SLOWER winding the string onto the post than a 15:1 tuner. Because it is slower, it is more precise.
Your were correct to replace the bent bridge. That was a bad bend. The saddles should not be straight across - they should follow the upward curve of the fretboard radius.
Bridge roller saddles are designed to reduce sting friction when a string is pulled (or released) i.e. with a vibrato bar. Using a roller bridge on a guitar with a stop bar is not necessary. So why do manufacturers offer roller TOM bridges? If a guitar has a Bigsby vibrato bar, the rollers would help. In the last 10 years or so lap steel guitars with benders have become popular and roller bridges help in that application - TOM bridges are popular with lap steel builders.
Good luck with your revitalized Flying V!
Shielding paint is generally just acrylic paint with graphite powder mixed in to make it conductive. Perhaps some contain some metal too but it's mostly just graphite as far as I know
That middle position clean sound was fantastic. As was the bridge at gain.
"In The Studio, cleanliness is godliness" - a mentor said to me years ago while I was interning. Unfortunately, while I do a far better job than you lads! I still am guilty of being a bit messy at times.
You'd did a grand job, I've never been a massive fan of V's, just for the aesthetic, but this does look cool and more importantly it sounds awesome. Well done as ever :-)
The Nail Bombs sound fantastic, really good choice. The whole thing turned out killer really. I don’t know why more locking tuners don’t have an auto trim feature because that is genius.
While conductive paint or copper tape are decent options. Especially the tape is quite tedious and overkill. I think the PRS approach, just using shielded wire, does the same job with a lot less hassle.
I have had them same tuners on my Gibson for 11 years now and I love them never any issues . look into a string butler too gives you straight pull my legs Paul never goes out of tune
I love modifying guitars, messing around with the electronics and shielding !
I like the 'Vintage' brand which are cheap enough to experiment with, installing original,
second-hand Gibson or Fender pickups. Makes a great guitar for about 250 quid.
those tuners are very very nice!!! Wonderful tone from the new pickups, the v can sing and scream!
Please do a video exploring tone knobs, on different guitars/pickups, effects, amps, other guitars..
Nice to see you finally finding your dream guitar. I personally don't like the shape too much but I do know that the higher fret accessibility is something to consider.
Great video, i learned quite a bit. Looking forward to the WALKER release!
You have done a good job!
Good choice to use the D'Addario locking tuners. Your guitar sounds really good. Great video! 😊🤘
Moving the strap button on the top wing closer to the bridge helps with balance and brings the bridge more to the right making you feel less like you are reaching for it.
I love seeing a worn guitar brought back to life. Awesome job 🤘
Bravo on the copper foil and the soldering flux 😊
FYI for everyone.You don't need to spend a bunch of money on that conductive shielding paint,it's stupid expensive for that small bottle. I just mix some fine graphite powder in black acrylic paint and you are good to go. Test with a multimeter for continuity when done. Way cheaper and you get 10× as much.
Or the copper tape isn’t very expensive at all.
I think this roll cost around $6 and there’s still plenty left on the roll.
@@KDH The main thing to be concerned about with copper tape (for shielding) is that the adhesive is conductive, otherwise it acts as a barrier between the overlapping copper layers, breaking up the effectiveness of the cage.
@@KDH Did you check with a multimeter to make sure you had continuity wherever you touched on it? Many copper tapes don't have conductive adhesive. Also you need to have a path to ground from the tape, so a wire going from the tape to a ground point, otherwise all you've done is make a big antenna, it has to transfer the excess noise to ground. I only know these things as I'm full time guitar tech.
That's a great modding video, thanks for sharing. I personally would have used a different brand of tuners and bridge. The D'addarios are great for the first few months but after that, the locking mechanism (the pins) deform and the high e and b strings starts slipping as they don't lock the strings in anymore.
Also the bridge is cool but really annoying if you need to tweak it on the fly. If you end up changing it and still want to rollerbridge, I highly recommend one from ABM. It's expensive but high quality.
If if you want a cheaper one, the Göldo TOM Rollerbridge is also great but may not fit the radius of your fretboard as it's made for 14''.
Anyways, hope you enjoy your ''new'' guitar!
Paint it like a Love Drops Flying V!
Ah, the birds are chirping, what a beautiful day to be inhaling lead fumes!
My Schecter C1 Apocalypse has locking tuners... but *those* are dope! Never knew they made ones that cut the strings for you.
I have had a hell,of a time finding long enough straps too. I’m good now, but I spent 30 minutes in a store going through all of them with a tape measure.
Heard alot of good things about the Babicz Full Contact TOM. Drop in replacement for the original, along with great tone and sustain.
Yuk on that bridge. Great clip though. You showed that guitar some love and didn't screw around with garbage gear. Seems like it paid off.
I always admire those who do their own upgrades and repairs, im useless i have no confidence - and quite rightly, i also have no ability either! I got myself a gretsch a while back, i love it - but...im sure it does need some work at the nut, open chords just dont quite sound in tune, think its too high. If ever you are doing any similar adjustments id be all over it!
Dude you’re such a good player. You should do a mini shred lesson series on your style.
The bareknuckle alnico 5 nailbombs are fantastic pickups. I describe them as a JB with more.
Bravo for your new acquisition and what a beautiful job squeaky clean 😂❤❤❤❤
thanks man for putting this out way more better than the clickhate
Good job! It sounds great!
That V looks and sounds awesome!! I’ve been thinking about getting a classic V lately, but so hard to find for cheap. Maybe I’ll find an old Epiphone. So many guitars, such little time.
Hi Squeaky. I have loved your channel for quite some time, now subscribed for Squeaky. Great work on the guitar, those Bare Knuckle fit just right in, sweet look.
H.R.H. King Reed Smith, says that it'll sound different if painted red!! 😎 -great job exposing the quackery btw ☘
Working on your stuff is fun you can do whatever you want
Sounds good .
Sounds amazing!! I love Gibsons.. I actually think because they can be so hit and miss that it makes it really special when ya find a great one or make a great one..
Badass guitar dude.. Congrats!!
The best guitar I have ever played was a 70s white Gibson Flying V in a recording studio in Pforzheim, Germany, about 25 years ago. What a neck, played itself, it did. Thing is, I hate Flying Vs, murder to get comfortable with, especially sitting down... Still the best. Nice job on the upgrading front, like that bridge.
Quality playing, quality soldering!
Beautiful man congratulations 🎊
Those are my favorite tuners as well. A bit pricey, but well worth it. 🤘
For what I could see you swapped a ceramic 20 nF cap (203M code) for an oil-filled 22 nF cap. Sure, it will last longer since it's a higher quality cap, but unless you change the nF value you won't notice a difference in the tone.
With a 22 or lower nf capacitor you'll have a very controlled and subtle tone roll off, but if you go for a 47 or higher you'll have a stronger roll off of high-frequencies
I would have liked a zebra in the bridge but the choice of aged is spot on
Pretty fucking cool tuners... Love that you didn't have to drill, and glad you found "your" Gibson:)
fyi 15:1 means that the knob or button must be turned 15 times to make the string post complete one revolution. cool video! I'm glad that lovely guitar is getting the attention she deserves!