Dunno how old you are (I'm 68) but its really clear you've been paying serious attention for a while. People my age often worry about the future of the hobby if too few younger people dive in. So its really refreshing and reassuring to have stumbled across your channel. If it hasn't happened already, sooner or later some of your peers are going to eat their hearts out watching what you're doing. Then there's this particular video. Seems as though the longer we're in the hobby, the larger our collection of really old or cheapo cars grows. Too often they end up ignored or shoved off to the side, even though they represent an investment. These upgrade tips are thoughtfully done. Thank you for this. You made a new fan today.
Hi and that's cool and actually I'll be 31 this year. Thank you I try to keep up to date on things and try to find new ways to help people in this hobby. Thank you I hear that often from older modelers. Hopefully these videos can help the younger generations as they progress in this hobby. Thank you and yes I am praying they do soon. I've actually been trying to find out ways to get myself noticed more. I mean life has gotten in the way a bit but I do try post regularly. Yes that is true I amassed so many of those cars. Alot of them where great in build quality but lacked the newer couplers and trucks. So I decided to make this video to show others how to upgrade them. I have several ways to do it but this one I think works best for my applications. Thank you that means alot! Glad to have you as a fan! Please continue to enjoy my channel and videos! Take care! Ed
I have watched a LOT of videos on You Tube, and I must say this is one that I have really enjoyed. I have bunches of these cars that need to be upgraded. I especially appreciate you speaking to the viewers like we’re actual train hobby people, and not people with an engineering degree. I found the content useful and will be able to use this info on my HO scale KCN Southern Railroad. Thank you!!
Thank you so much for your comment! Reading this, this morning made my day! I am glad you enjoyed the video. Yeah I try my best to explain it in a way that everyone can understand and feel confident about doing it themselves. I try not to get super technical because I mostly see shapes and so I try to give the viewers a visual explaination which is easier for me. I am glad this will help you upgrade your cars! Do you have a video's of your railroad on you tube? I'd like to check it out. Thanks again! Ed
The talgo-style clip on type plastic trucks were the standard for over 30 years for the beginner in model railroading. They were GREAT for pulling effort on sharp curves like 18-inch radius or larger. The down side was trying to do spur or yard switching. Reverse moves were trouble. Thanks for sharing on upgrading to body mounting versions.
Suggestions: - when installing the filler rod (or tube), mark the depth on the rod, remove it, and cut it to length before mounting. If you cut it just a hair short, you can use styrene cement, insert the rod, and tap it down so it's level with the bolster before the plastic surfaces fully bond. This avoids all the cutting and grinding after it's already in place. Only minor touch-up will be needed. - when shimming for coupler pockets, it's a lot neater to use 1/4 inch strip styrene to make it appear as an extension of the center sill. Coupler pockets are mounted to the ends of the center sills on actual rolling stock anyway. Use 0.010 or .020 thick strips and you can build them up in a couple of layers as needed depending on the car body or if the coupler needs to be lowered to match with the gauge - I noted the UP shorty high-cube car off to the side. With cars molded in white or light colored plastic, the model may end up translucent. I solved this with my UP car by painting the inside black to render the car body opaque.
Excellent informative video. Well paced, clear instructions and good video - easy to see what the gentleman is doing. Well done. Hope to see more of his demos
Personally, I avoid using power tools for such small jobs. I have several 'pin vises' such as he uses for the pilot holes. A 1/32 drill for a pilot or starter, then a 1/16 tap size for both 2-56 and 2mm screws. The process for filling the hole applies as well to many 'archaic' models that have wood or cast zamak bottoms. A good job, albeit a bit clumsy doing the work so close to the track. All in all, a good video. Keep up the good work. Bill Hudson NMRA Life 2125
The method I used years ago was to use two sizes of tubing where one fit the outer hole and one fitted inside that outer ring. That made drilling the hole unnecessary as the smaller diameter also took a #2 screw without tapping.
Not sure what you mean by round...where you mount the coupler should be a flat surface. could you please make a quick video and post it so I can see what you mean?
One thing though only make the coupler support pad as big as the actual coupler box itself or just a smidgen bigger this will allow more room for the wheels to clear. But excellent result though. If you use Kadee number 5 coupler boxes then cut of the little wing sections each side of the coupler box it will allow the bogie to swing a bit further. And as I always point out do not glue the couplers on or glue the coupler box together though as 5 will get you 10 at somestage in the future you might have to replace the coupler, so simply screw them on using the centre hole to hold it all together. Then if a coupler does break you can easily replace it in less than 5 minutes.
David Peters indeed true. Sometimes I over estimate the size of the styrene but depending on the car i do it on purpose. The reason is because the end needs more strength across the whole end of the frame. I then go back and make adjustments for the truck. yes true however if I do glue the coupler box on I flip it upside down so that I can pop off the coupler lid. Yes I've made notches in the coupler boxes to accommodate the wheels for when the car turns. Thanks for your comment and I am glad you enjoyed the video!
You need to specify what size of drill bit you're using in the DeWalt drill to clarify the size of hole needed for the two screws, the bolster hole as well as the coupler hole. Otherwise a good video tutorial. Thanks for sharing. I've reworked about 100 different rolling stock including passenger coaches. I changed out all the wheel sets from plastic to metal (over $200.00), cut off all the talago trucks and added body mounted KD couplers and added lighting to all my passenger coaches. Took me almost a year to get everything converted. Have a handfull of cabooses to do yet but will finish that sometime next week. One passenger coach I had to build the truck pickups to supply the electricity to light the coach. It was a fun project but managed to get it completed. I added 3300 uFd caps and full wave bridge rectifiers so that I now have flicker free constant lighting.
Thanks and yes you can always upgrade. Thank you I have made many more video's made since I posted this. Please enjoy them and thanks again! Happy New Year 🎇🎆🎉
Nice tutorial. I am looking to do this as well so appreciate your video. Your lighting was good, no camera shake and your commentary was good volume. My only comment is that you do get your drill bit sizes mixed up. You were saying 1/64 and 3/16. Well 3/16 is 12 times larger than 3/16. I think you might have meant 11/64 and 3/16. 3/16" is just under 4.8 mm and 11/64 is just under 4.4 mm. (1/64" is only 0.4 mm)
Just the subject I’m involved with. Great video. One question however: in the video you used kadee couplers but said you were going to switch them with shelf couplers. What’s the difference between kadee and shelf?
Thanks!! And kadee makes shelf couplers. Shelf couplers basically have an interlocking shelf on the upper and lower part of the coupler. These are often used on tank cars or passenger cars. This prevents the knuckle from slipping out or prevents unnecessary coupling. Kadee makes both the scale version or the regular and they work great. I often use them when some cars coupler heights don't match up closely, so the shelf on the couplers make the connection stronger with the interlocking connections.
I suggest using plastic weld type cement to hold the plastic rod in the floor in place of super glue to avoid sticking fingers together (don't ask how I know) - Charlie
Plastic weld drys to slow for my applications. I never used it but once and I didn't like it. Oh btw why do you keep using charlie at the end of each comment? What do you mean by Charlie? I have an idea as to what it means but please explain it in a comment 🧐
Great video, but I think you should check your drill bit size. Your bit that you say is 1/64, looks to be much bigger than 1/64. Just clarifying. But excellent video and keep up the great work.
awesome! I been doing this for years....but please don't use ACC for plastic to plastic...it will dry out and crack....use testers liquid cement...I still use this method for Frateschi cars....the liquid cement will bond and weld the parts together....don't drill or tap to atleast 48 hours....but your bond will outlast your life...the ACC will only go a few years down the road.
Thanks! And I've been using Zap a gap since I was 16. I've used it instead of testors because it dosent warp what I am working on. Plus some of my early kitbashed trains I used it and they've been fine. But thanks for the info☺
love the video . what a surprise I got watching it. I am using my wifes email at the moment, but I noticed a truck (matchbox) that you have on your layout. I have had that matchbox since I was a young boy. now I am 44 and still have that truck . I also have the original service center sto & go hot wheels center. got it for xmas when I was 7 the black racing bandit racing semi. j\c do you know the value of it?
Thanks and yes I have a whole collection of them. Oh that's cool reminds me of the cars and trucks I got as a kid. I am almost 28 now and I still have them. I personally wouldn't know the value of it but my buddies on DiecastTVchannel could help you. Send them a message and let me know what happens. Thanks again!
We're you able to watch this video? I show you step by step how to modify ihc and other cars or that type in this video. Your looking to body mount the couplers right?
EMDSD14R I found some kadee trucks with couplers I wanted to replace with those i was considering drilling into putty instead of styrene however I would body mount but I have no idea how to make sure they are centered
Oh I see and understand. What I use to center the couplers is the truck bolster holes. I sometimes use a ruler and find the center of the bolster hole then I use that to make sure the coupler I centered. After that I drill the hole for the coupler and that's about it.
reconphil you mean sand the rod down until its even with the booster hole? that would take to long. I only use a large or small file to get everything nice and even. you can use sprung trucks from kadee also but I prefer the kato free rolling trucks. Plus srpung trucks from my experience look cool but it you lose a spring your done. If the car already has a good amount of weight to it i leave it as is because the metal wheels also added weight to the car .
You can put the rod in the drill and a piece of sandpaper. I've done it with wooden dowels on other applications. I see what you mean about the sprung trucks, but you can buy new springs. Anyway, nice video.
reconphil oh i see what you mean now..you mean to get the rod a small enough diameter to fit in the booster hole. Yes that would work as it would save time but you'd still have to be careful as to not sand it too much. Yes you can replace the springs but that is a pain to do. I do have a few cars that have sprung trucks. They don't give me issues so I leave them be. Now as for my brass models yeah those kind of sprung trucks I like and prefer. They are free rolling. But thanks again for your comment 👍
Dunno how old you are (I'm 68) but its really clear you've been paying serious attention for a while. People my age often worry about the future of the hobby if too few younger people dive in. So its really refreshing and reassuring to have stumbled across your channel. If it hasn't happened already, sooner or later some of your peers are going to eat their hearts out watching what you're doing.
Then there's this particular video. Seems as though the longer we're in the hobby, the larger our collection of really old or cheapo cars grows. Too often they end up ignored or shoved off to the side, even though they represent an investment. These upgrade tips are thoughtfully done. Thank you for this. You made a new fan today.
Hi and that's cool and actually I'll be 31 this year. Thank you I try to keep up to date on things and try to find new ways to help people in this hobby. Thank you I hear that often from older modelers. Hopefully these videos can help the younger generations as they progress in this hobby.
Thank you and yes I am praying they do soon. I've actually been trying to find out ways to get myself noticed more. I mean life has gotten in the way a bit but I do try post regularly.
Yes that is true I amassed so many of those cars. Alot of them where great in build quality but lacked the newer couplers and trucks. So I decided to make this video to show others how to upgrade them. I have several ways to do it but this one I think works best for my applications.
Thank you that means alot! Glad to have you as a fan!
Please continue to enjoy my channel and videos!
Take care!
Ed
I have watched a LOT of videos on You Tube, and I must say this is one that I have really enjoyed. I have bunches of these cars that need to be upgraded. I especially appreciate you speaking to the viewers like we’re actual train hobby people, and not people with an engineering degree. I found the content useful and will be able to use this info on my HO scale KCN Southern Railroad. Thank you!!
Thank you so much for your comment! Reading this, this morning made my day! I am glad you enjoyed the video. Yeah I try my best to explain it in a way that everyone can understand and feel confident about doing it themselves. I try not to get super technical because I mostly see shapes and so I try to give the viewers a visual explaination which is easier for me. I am glad this will help you upgrade your cars! Do you have a video's of your railroad on you tube? I'd like to check it out. Thanks again!
Ed
@@EMDSD14R No just rebuilding it and it will not be a lot, just switching.
Another very nice and very helpful video. I don't have a train yet, but I am doing research in advance so that I will know what to expect. Thanks.
Thank you I am glad my video was helpful. Oh I see and that's great to hear! If you have more questions don't hesitate to ask. Thanks again!
The talgo-style clip on type plastic trucks were the standard for over 30 years for the beginner in model railroading. They were GREAT for pulling effort on sharp curves like 18-inch radius or larger. The down side was trying to do spur or yard switching. Reverse moves were trouble. Thanks for sharing on upgrading to body mounting versions.
Suggestions:
- when installing the filler rod (or tube), mark the depth on the rod, remove it, and cut it to length before mounting. If you cut it just a hair short, you can use styrene cement, insert the rod, and tap it down so it's level with the bolster before the plastic surfaces fully bond. This avoids all the cutting and grinding after it's already in place. Only minor touch-up will be needed.
- when shimming for coupler pockets, it's a lot neater to use 1/4 inch strip styrene to make it appear as an extension of the center sill. Coupler pockets are mounted to the ends of the center sills on actual rolling stock anyway. Use 0.010 or .020 thick strips and you can build them up in a couple of layers as needed depending on the car body or if the coupler needs to be lowered to match with the gauge
- I noted the UP shorty high-cube car off to the side. With cars molded in white or light colored plastic, the model may end up translucent. I solved this with my UP car by painting the inside black to render the car body opaque.
Excellent informative video. Well paced, clear instructions and good video - easy to see what the gentleman is doing. Well done. Hope to see more of his demos
Thanks! I am glad you enjoyed the video! I'll try to make more soon!
Personally, I avoid using power tools for such small jobs. I have several 'pin vises' such as he uses for the pilot holes. A 1/32 drill for a pilot or starter, then a 1/16 tap size for both 2-56 and 2mm screws. The process for filling the hole applies as well to many 'archaic' models that have wood or cast zamak bottoms. A good job, albeit a bit clumsy doing the work so close to the track. All in all, a good video. Keep up the good work.
Bill Hudson NMRA Life 2125
The method I used years ago was to use two sizes of tubing where one fit the outer hole and one fitted inside that outer ring. That made drilling the hole unnecessary as the smaller diameter also took a #2 screw without tapping.
Great technique, will definitely use your method when I build my first layout. Upgrading cars and locos now.
Thanks and that's great to hear! Keep me posted on your progress!
EMDSD14R used your technique on a Tyco Gulf tanker that is round. How would you attach a coupler to a round surface?
Not sure what you mean by round...where you mount the coupler should be a flat surface. could you please make a quick video and post it so I can see what you mean?
EMDSD14R I have a photo
It’s a round tube with end caps. Trucks are mounded to the round tanker. Coupler was attached to trucks originally.
One thing though only make the coupler support pad as big as the actual coupler box itself or just a smidgen bigger this will allow more room for the wheels to clear. But excellent result though. If you use Kadee number 5 coupler boxes then cut of the little wing sections each side of the coupler box it will allow the bogie to swing a bit further. And as I always point out do not glue the couplers on or glue the coupler box together though as 5 will get you 10 at somestage in the future you might have to replace the coupler, so simply screw them on using the centre hole to hold it all together. Then if a coupler does break you can easily replace it in less than 5 minutes.
David Peters indeed true. Sometimes I over estimate the size of the styrene but depending on the car i do it on purpose. The reason is because the end needs more strength across the whole end of the frame. I then go back and make adjustments for the truck. yes true however if I do glue the coupler box on I flip it upside down so that I can pop off the coupler lid. Yes I've made notches in the coupler boxes to accommodate the wheels for when the car turns. Thanks for your comment and I am glad you enjoyed the video!
You need to specify what size of drill bit you're using in the DeWalt drill to clarify the size of hole needed for the two screws, the bolster hole as well as the coupler hole. Otherwise a good video tutorial. Thanks for sharing. I've reworked about 100 different rolling stock including passenger coaches. I changed out all the wheel sets from plastic to metal (over $200.00), cut off all the talago trucks and added body mounted KD couplers and added lighting to all my passenger coaches. Took me almost a year to get everything converted. Have a handfull of cabooses to do yet but will finish that sometime next week. One passenger coach I had to build the truck pickups to supply the electricity to light the coach. It was a fun project but managed to get it completed. I added 3300 uFd caps and full wave bridge rectifiers so that I now have flicker free constant lighting.
Yeah your right I said everything but the coupler and bolster drill bit size. Thanks I'll put that in the video. Thanks again!!
Great information
Thanks for the video, came in just in time as I am doing something similar to a passenger car.
No problem I am glad it was helpful. Oh I see I did the same thing with some IHC passenger cars.
Great share you can always upgrade your rolling stock. New here looking forward to more here keep up the great work👍🏻🚂
Thanks and yes you can always upgrade. Thank you I have made many more video's made since I posted this. Please enjoy them and thanks again! Happy New Year 🎇🎆🎉
Noticed you have Kato track while owning older rollingstock. Seriously, awesome video efforts. Nice job!
Indeed I like the kato unitrack. Its easy to clean and its durable. Thanks again!
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you and no problem thanks for enjoying it!
Thanks for the video,This helped me alot.I have about 40 cars I need to upgrade.
Anytime I am glad it helped you out. The conversion is straight forward and it allows you to keep those cars. I am almost done I got like 10-15 left.
EMDSD14R
Great work , very helpful.
Another method is to fill the bolster hole with epoxy putty. You can drill and tap this stuff. It is wonderful.
I didn't know you could use epoxy putty for that..interesting..thanks for the info!
Nice tutorial. I am looking to do this as well so appreciate your video. Your lighting was good, no camera shake and your commentary was good volume. My only comment is that you do get your drill bit sizes mixed up. You were saying 1/64 and 3/16. Well 3/16 is 12 times larger than 3/16. I think you might have meant 11/64 and 3/16. 3/16" is just under 4.8 mm and 11/64 is just under 4.4 mm. (1/64" is only 0.4 mm)
Thanks and that's cool. Yeah I was reading them off the bits wrong but you got them right. Thanks for your comment!
Just the subject I’m involved with. Great video.
One question however: in the video you used kadee couplers but said you were going to switch them with shelf couplers.
What’s the difference between kadee and shelf?
Thanks!! And kadee makes shelf couplers. Shelf couplers basically have an interlocking shelf on the upper and lower part of the coupler. These are often used on tank cars or passenger cars. This prevents the knuckle from slipping out or prevents unnecessary coupling. Kadee makes both the scale version or the regular and they work great. I often use them when some cars coupler heights don't match up closely, so the shelf on the couplers make the connection stronger with the interlocking connections.
EMDSD14R what are the kadee numbers for scale version and the regular version?
Scale version is #119, regular version is #118.
EMDSD14R you’ve been so helpful, thank you so much.
@@chucklamb3496 no problem! If you have more questions please feel free to ask😁
I suggest using plastic weld type cement to hold the plastic rod in the floor in place of super glue to avoid sticking fingers together (don't ask how I know) - Charlie
Plastic weld drys to slow for my applications. I never used it but once and I didn't like it. Oh btw why do you keep using charlie at the end of each comment? What do you mean by Charlie? I have an idea as to what it means but please explain it in a comment 🧐
Great video, but I think you should check your drill bit size. Your bit that you say is 1/64, looks to be much bigger than 1/64. Just clarifying. But excellent video and keep up the great work.
I'll make another video down the road showing that in more detail. Thanks I am glad you liked the video! :-)
Where did you purchase the coupler bender - thanks
I got mine from Nicholas Smith Trains. But you can order them online also.
Very informative video thank you. Where do you usually buy your new trucks from? Thank you
Your welcome! I usually got them from Nicholas Smith trains.
awesome! I been doing this for years....but please don't use ACC for plastic to plastic...it will dry out and crack....use testers liquid cement...I still use this method for Frateschi cars....the liquid cement will bond and weld the parts together....don't drill or tap to atleast 48 hours....but your bond will outlast your life...the ACC will only go a few years down the road.
Thanks! And I've been using Zap a gap since I was 16. I've used it instead of testors because it dosent warp what I am working on. Plus some of my early kitbashed trains I used it and they've been fine. But thanks for the info☺
@@EMDSD14Rsome of my early stuff dried out and cracked, just figured I would give you a heads up.
@@ALL-bj7mj I am grateful for that and thank you!😁I have experienced times were I got a bad bottle of zap a gap and it didn't glue anything.
love the video . what a surprise I got watching it. I am using my wifes email at the moment, but I noticed a truck (matchbox) that you have on your layout. I have had that matchbox since I was a young boy. now I am 44 and still have that truck . I also have the original service center sto & go hot wheels center. got it for xmas when I was 7 the black racing bandit racing semi. j\c do you know the value of it?
Thanks and yes I have a whole collection of them. Oh that's cool reminds me of the cars and trucks I got as a kid. I am almost 28 now and I still have them. I personally wouldn't know the value of it but my buddies on DiecastTVchannel could help you. Send them a message and let me know what happens. Thanks again!
the free roller bearing trucks, what brand is that in the video?
Those are from Kato.
I'll add a piece of wood square stock behind the coupler box to keep them straight.
you can do that also.
wood???? why not evergreen styrene...and then use liquid cement for a bonding agent....
hey im trying to upgrade some old IHC rolling stock which have truck mounted couplers any tips id like to step them up to some kadee #5s if possible
We're you able to watch this video? I show you step by step how to modify ihc and other cars or that type in this video. Your looking to body mount the couplers right?
EMDSD14R I found some kadee trucks with couplers I wanted to replace with those i was considering drilling into putty instead of styrene however I would body mount but I have no idea how to make sure they are centered
Oh I see and understand. What I use to center the couplers is the truck bolster holes. I sometimes use a ruler and find the center of the bolster hole then I use that to make sure the coupler I centered. After that I drill the hole for the coupler and that's about it.
where do you get your trucks
You mean the kato roller bearing trucks? I get them from nicholas smith trains in Broomall PA .
odor-less super glue & super-fast set-up for a speeder fix
is quite impossible to get those couplers all the same highs perfectly
Yeah that's true. Sometimes I had to use overshank or undershank couplers on one end of certain cars to make them work.
neat
thanks
Good ideas. But please put more light on the subject. Working in the shadows doesn't show. Dark on dark doesn't show up. Thanks.
I would have been better to sand the rod. Also, if you are going to upgrade why not use sprung trucks. Then add weight to scale.
reconphil you mean sand the rod down until its even with the booster hole? that would take to long. I only use a large or small file to get everything nice and even. you can use sprung trucks from kadee also but I prefer the kato free rolling trucks. Plus srpung trucks from my experience look cool but it you lose a spring your done. If the car already has a good amount of weight to it i leave it as is because the metal wheels also added weight to the car .
You can put the rod in the drill and a piece of sandpaper. I've done it with wooden dowels on other applications. I see what you mean about the sprung trucks, but you can buy new springs. Anyway, nice video.
reconphil oh i see what you mean now..you mean to get the rod a small enough diameter to fit in the booster hole. Yes that would work as it would save time but you'd still have to be careful as to not sand it too much. Yes you can replace the springs but that is a pain to do. I do have a few cars that have sprung trucks. They don't give me issues so I leave them be. Now as for my brass models yeah those kind of sprung trucks I like and prefer. They are free rolling. But thanks again for your comment 👍
did you say 1/64 " drill? that is very small. good video though.
I actually said 1/64 drill bit..that's not that small. Thanks for enjoying the video.
get a Kadee 2-56 drill and tap....1/64th is too oversized....
1/64 bit?
Yeah that's what I meant.
Dude, Just fill the hole with PlastiLoca, far easier than those rods and cutting.Levelling and filing would also be easier.
shouldve painted the plastic parts black so they dont stand out
Weathering can take care of that. That's easy to do.
That is not a1/64th bit replay your video before posting
You do realize how old the video is right? Also please read in the comment sections before posting. Thanks!