Thanks man🔥 How is the handle on that one? Iv always wondered if its better, cause I can't stand this one, as I said I'll make a new handle in a separate video, hopefully in May.
@@AmberBushcraft it was both! I’m from the states and there’s nowhere anywhere near me where I can get a Fallkniven in my hands to see if it feels right for what I’m looking for. And I’m not willing to spend Fallkniven money just to find out 😂 so this was very helpful!
@ape-xfitness5785 Late response here, just got back from Easter overnighter. Maybe I can suggest you a knife? Depends what you are looking for ofcourse!
Nice video, I get why this tool can be divisive, but its mainly due to user misuse and expecting more than what it was designed to do. It's a forestry tool admittedly, but for harsh climates and conditions in survival situations. All of your complaints are valid, but it was designed to be used in hard environments by professionals. like the sheath was designed to be loose so the blade didn't freeze in the sheath. the handle is designed to be slim and heavily textured for being held while wearing gloves.. you shouldn't need to use the spine for striking a ferro rod, if you have a ferro rod with you, you should have a striker for it too. people review this like its supposed to be some "one tool for everything". when it was designed not to fail in the hard use, harsh environments, not light bushcraft usage by average joes. In the hands of the intended you don't hear anything but massive praise, but the weekend hikers want comfort and zero effort hence why this tool isn't for everyone's liking and they need to mod it for comfortability. No one asked you to buy an overbuilt tool for professionals, to then use it has a camping knife and find its not fit for your needs. it was designed to keep you alive and survive the elements, not make fancy feather sticks and spoons effortlessly. It's not the tool that's ill-fitting its your usage of that tool.
You have good arguments, and I agree. Only, I think comfort in the handle isn't really about "No effort", just a comfortable handle, it either is or not. I have used this knife in the cold when gloves are indeed needed, still didn't find it comfortable. And purely the knife wouldn't decide if one survives elements or they don't, some people can survive with a mora classic 1/0, it's more about knowlage in my opinion. Sharp spine for me serves multiple purposes, not only fire steel scraping, but wood scraping etc, I just prefere it that way, and a fero rod with a striker dangling with it, never found it comfortable, but that's each other's preference. This video is targeted to audience who want to buy this knife for bushcraft, and these opinions of mine are for bushcraft. But you have good points, thank you for the thought out comment.
Excellent discussion and I agree wholeheartedly. 👍 I have the S1x and outside of a couple uses, it just collects dust and sits on a shelf in its box. I’ve never liked the handle and the thin scales. Folks have tried to convince me all the reasons I should like it because of whatever reason. Just doesn’t work for me. If others like it, good for them. I’d love to rehandle mine.
Same problem with handle you said but also: 1- thermerin scales so thin they tear at points where screws are placed this happening without heavy use. Scales just worked themselves off 2- due to thinness of scales, any attempt to make a superior handle negates the modified Falkniven sheath. I know there has been a lot of complaints about the Zytel sheaths relating to the price of the knife and the cheapness of the shades. To be fair, Falkniven as always offered leather sheaths for all their knives. I tend to prefer the Zytel even over Kydex as Kydex does not respond well to temperature change and will crack. The original Zytel sheaths were crap though as the snap keeper covered the lanyard hole, they rattled, and the snap style keeper made it highly difficult in cold weather to deploy the knife then replace it, resnapping the keeper especially with gloves on. The new sheaths very simply and cleverly solved this problem. Unfortunately, any change one makes to the handle, makes the blade no longer sit in the sheath even on a cord wrap which is what I resorted to. There seem to be NO aftermarket sheaths for the S1x. I even approached Falkniven as to possibly offering maybe micarta scales as an option cut to the same proportions. They seemed uninterested. Micarta or hard wood could be a problem solving option and could be formed to cover or at least be flush with the tang. There is one person making scales for the F1 X out of African Blackwood. I have purchased these scales owning an F1X as well. The scales not only fit the modified plastic sheath which allows you to suspend the knife even upside down and do all operations with one hand, including replacement of the blade. The scales also have built-in finger grips and or very comfortable for even harder use. Unfortunately, the Maker does not have them for the S1 X or the A1 X. I do not understand why Falkniven is not on this as the X blades are beasts, and the new sheaths are impervious to the elements. This applies to cold, tropical, and Maritime environments making the knife and zytel sheath a solid almost no maintenance package for survival situations. If only they made scales that could boast the same claim …
I 100% agree, so much potential in this knife for survival, but just this one aspect ruins it. After some time tho, I now like thinner blades for bushcraft, try them out😁
@@AmberBushcraft ironically, the original F1 with the flat convex and “skinner” profile tends to be better for all around bushcraft use. No wonder that was the pilots knife for the Swedish Air Force. Not sure overall but to bounce off one of Cedrick’s comments some of this might have been an appeal to the American audience of which I am guilty as charged. I own both original F1 AND S1 as well as both Xs. There was also that survival Lily video where she snapped the top off an original S1. Perhaps the “steroid injection” was a possible response to both factors but I only speculate. I definitely agree with you that the Xs are without a doubt survival category with the originals maybe skirting the edge of bushcraft.
Oh yeah , I’ve used both Xs for fire starting with a spark rod but have always stacked the deck with very super fine tinder WITH the feather sticks. I had the S1x on a deserted island survival training in Panama last year and used crumpled up decayed coconut leafs mixed with coconut fiber from the husk. No problem. But you are right just trying to throw sparks at feather sticks not always grantee of result
@christopherdiggles6533 After buying a proper knife for bushcraft, I steered away from fallknivens. And yes, the spine isn't good for scraping fire steel. I'm making my own knife right now, and that one will have a sharp really sharp spine.
@@AmberBushcraft The sharp bits that are uncomfortable stand out from the plastic. I used a belt sander to make those pointy bits round (important to plan the degree of round bevor /what will be comfortable for oneself) and the edge of the steel there i rounded too. That made it my absolute favorite knive in the whole world :D
@@cheezymoser allthough i love modifying and making things my self, i think for that price, the knife should be atleast in no need of modification. Fit and finish type of deal! But dont you find the handle too slim? Even after sanding?
@@AmberBushcraft I know it's been a while but i absolutely agree with most of your points. For the price it should be perfect. I have rather small hands and somehow the slim handles are just perfect for me (can't really explain it) Hope you're doing well and keep up the great work.
I am also disappointed with the rounded spine. I thought about grinding it but have not done so after 3 years. The thin handle is workable and not a deal breaker since I usually wear gloves. You are correct that this isn't a bushcraft knife. For me it works as a woodsman/hunting knife. It does great with maintaining its sharpness throughout the dressing and butchering of a deer carcass. The mass and heft works well with chopping deer ribs at the spine making great chops for grilling. I have the A1X as well and it is an even better chopper but can be too large at times for hunting purposes. As a survival knife either are suitable after a spine sharpening. Regardless I agree with your assessments.
Do you like thinner or thicker blades for hunting? A customer told me he wants a hunters knife made, so I'll make it, right now I think thinner would be better? Let me know some insight!
Hello AB, the issues I have with hunting knives are that for the size and heft, I prefer to carry a larger 6inch+ woodsman knife, and in addition carry a high quality folder like a Coldsteel Code 4, or even up to an AD10 and everything in between. The larger knife for moderate bone work like the ribs, sturnum, or even the pelvis. The larger knife is also great for quartering whole carcasses where you get cleaner cuts in large thick areas of flesh like separating the thigh from the pelvis. The smaller thin good quality steel like an S35VN is great for delicate work ti minimize waste in separating flesh from bone, ie. Backstraps and tenderloins, but most importantly skinning game so plenty of belly is required. So for a dedicated hunting/game processing knife I would prefer around 5 inches, 3.5 to 4.5mm thick, and the grip on the thinner side, but not as thin as the Fallkniven Xs. I can get by with my S1X because I use it in addition to my hunting folder. Lastly a good quality steel like CPM-3V for edge retention against bone, no chopping but constantly scraping against bone, and for a more stainless quality due to blood and wet environment. In any redgards AB, every hunter has their own list of preferences. Just give your client choices in length and thickness for both blade and grip, blade profile and grind, choice in blade and grip/handle material. Possibly weight, to help narrow down choices. Good luck!
Nice Video. Got the S1Pro. I Like it
Thanks man🔥 How is the handle on that one? Iv always wondered if its better, cause I can't stand this one, as I said I'll make a new handle in a separate video, hopefully in May.
@@AmberBushcraft the handle is a bit small and thin but it’s ok for my XL hands. And the handle doesnt hurt my hands even without gloves
Good video! Thanks for sharing 🤙
Appreciate it mate! I hope it was helpfull and/or entertaining 😁
@@AmberBushcraft it was both! I’m from the states and there’s nowhere anywhere near me where I can get a Fallkniven in my hands to see if it feels right for what I’m looking for. And I’m not willing to spend Fallkniven money just to find out 😂 so this was very helpful!
@ape-xfitness5785 Late response here, just got back from Easter overnighter. Maybe I can suggest you a knife? Depends what you are looking for ofcourse!
PS African Blackwood scales for F1x can be found on ETSY
Nice video, I get why this tool can be divisive, but its mainly due to user misuse and expecting more than what it was designed to do. It's a forestry tool admittedly, but for harsh climates and conditions in survival situations.
All of your complaints are valid, but it was designed to be used in hard environments by professionals. like the sheath was designed to be loose so the blade didn't freeze in the sheath. the handle is designed to be slim and heavily textured for being held while wearing gloves.. you shouldn't need to use the spine for striking a ferro rod, if you have a ferro rod with you, you should have a striker for it too. people review this like its supposed to be some "one tool for everything". when it was designed not to fail in the hard use, harsh environments, not light bushcraft usage by average joes. In the hands of the intended you don't hear anything but massive praise, but the weekend hikers want comfort and zero effort hence why this tool isn't for everyone's liking and they need to mod it for comfortability.
No one asked you to buy an overbuilt tool for professionals, to then use it has a camping knife and find its not fit for your needs.
it was designed to keep you alive and survive the elements, not make fancy feather sticks and spoons effortlessly. It's not the tool that's ill-fitting its your usage of that tool.
You have good arguments, and I agree. Only, I think comfort in the handle isn't really about "No effort", just a comfortable handle, it either is or not. I have used this knife in the cold when gloves are indeed needed, still didn't find it comfortable. And purely the knife wouldn't decide if one survives elements or they don't, some people can survive with a mora classic 1/0, it's more about knowlage in my opinion. Sharp spine for me serves multiple purposes, not only fire steel scraping, but wood scraping etc, I just prefere it that way, and a fero rod with a striker dangling with it, never found it comfortable, but that's each other's preference.
This video is targeted to audience who want to buy this knife for bushcraft, and these opinions of mine are for bushcraft.
But you have good points, thank you for the thought out comment.
Excellent discussion and I agree wholeheartedly. 👍 I have the S1x and outside of a couple uses, it just collects dust and sits on a shelf in its box. I’ve never liked the handle and the thin scales. Folks have tried to convince me all the reasons I should like it because of whatever reason. Just doesn’t work for me. If others like it, good for them. I’d love to rehandle mine.
I do custom work and rehandling work. But i did sell this one some time ago to fund other projects, you know how it goes!
@@AmberBushcraft how did the S1x fair out in your opinion with a handle mod?
@@blackhawkbushcraft i didnt change the handle, but im sure it would be a worlds of a diffrence!
Same problem with handle you said but also:
1- thermerin scales so thin they tear at points where screws are placed this happening without heavy use. Scales just worked themselves off
2- due to thinness of scales, any attempt to make a superior handle negates the modified Falkniven sheath. I know there has been a lot of complaints about the Zytel sheaths relating to the price of the knife and the cheapness of the shades. To be fair, Falkniven as always offered leather sheaths for all their knives. I tend to prefer the Zytel even over Kydex as Kydex does not respond well to temperature change and will crack. The original Zytel sheaths were crap though as the snap keeper covered the lanyard hole, they rattled, and the snap style keeper made it highly difficult in cold weather to deploy the knife then replace it, resnapping the keeper especially with gloves on. The new sheaths very simply and cleverly solved this problem. Unfortunately, any change one makes to the handle, makes the blade no longer sit in the sheath even on a cord wrap which is what I resorted to. There seem to be NO aftermarket sheaths for the S1x. I even approached Falkniven as to possibly offering maybe micarta scales as an option cut to the same proportions. They seemed uninterested. Micarta or hard wood could be a problem solving option and could be formed to cover or at least be flush with the tang. There is one person making scales for the F1 X out of African Blackwood. I have purchased these scales owning an F1X as well. The scales not only fit the modified plastic sheath which allows you to suspend the knife even upside down and do all operations with one hand, including replacement of the blade. The scales also have built-in finger grips and or very comfortable for even harder use. Unfortunately, the Maker does not have them for the S1 X or the A1 X. I do not understand why Falkniven is not on this as the X blades are beasts, and the new sheaths are impervious to the elements. This applies to cold, tropical, and Maritime environments making the knife and zytel sheath a solid almost no maintenance package for survival situations. If only they made scales that could boast the same claim …
I 100% agree, so much potential in this knife for survival, but just this one aspect ruins it. After some time tho, I now like thinner blades for bushcraft, try them out😁
@@AmberBushcraft ironically, the original F1 with the flat convex and “skinner” profile tends to be better for all around bushcraft use. No wonder that was the pilots knife for the Swedish Air Force. Not sure overall but to bounce off one of Cedrick’s comments some of this might have been an appeal to the American audience of which I am guilty as charged. I own both original F1 AND S1 as well as both Xs. There was also that survival Lily video where she snapped the top off an original S1. Perhaps the “steroid injection” was a possible response to both factors but I only speculate. I definitely agree with you that the Xs are without a doubt survival category with the originals maybe skirting the edge of bushcraft.
Oh yeah , I’ve used both Xs for fire starting with a spark rod but have always stacked the deck with very super fine tinder WITH the feather sticks. I had the S1x on a deserted island survival training in Panama last year and used crumpled up decayed coconut leafs mixed with coconut fiber from the husk. No problem. But you are right just trying to throw sparks at feather sticks not always grantee of result
@christopherdiggles6533 After buying a proper knife for bushcraft, I steered away from fallknivens. And yes, the spine isn't good for scraping fire steel. I'm making my own knife right now, and that one will have a sharp really sharp spine.
Well let me know if you ever start doing S1x handle scales and you will have a customer
Subbed to see your handles for this! Ha the A1xb and it just makes me smile every time I use it. Would be interested in some scales!
I do offer knife handle change! If thats of interest for your a1xb. Thanks!
Good review, good to know about the handle design, this is second time I have seen a complaint about the handle being sharp and having hotspots.
Thank you! There is a reason, even my mora knives get used more! I recommend trying the mora kniv classic line.
@@AmberBushcraft The sharp bits that are uncomfortable stand out from the plastic. I used a belt sander to make those pointy bits round (important to plan the degree of round bevor /what will be comfortable for oneself) and the edge of the steel there i rounded too.
That made it my absolute favorite knive in the whole world :D
@@cheezymoser allthough i love modifying and making things my self, i think for that price, the knife should be atleast in no need of modification. Fit and finish type of deal! But dont you find the handle too slim? Even after sanding?
@@AmberBushcraft I know it's been a while but i absolutely agree with most of your points. For the price it should be perfect.
I have rather small hands and somehow the slim handles are just perfect for me (can't really explain it)
Hope you're doing well and keep up the great work.
@@cheezymoser thanks mate! I'm good, started to make knives me self😄
Good review 👍 not a fan of thin handles myself
Hate them! Thanks for whatching😁
*The handle of Fallkniven S1X is absolut o.k. Ask your surgeon to make your hands smaller.*
In all seriousnes, I already have relatively small hands😄
@@AmberBushcraft *You're making a mess 🙂 A knife is not an axe and the handle has enough room for 4 fingers. I checked.*
@@user-ww4od4jl1f well, we each have a right to our opinion, I like bigger handles, end of the story.
@@AmberBushcraft *buy yourself a shovel. Now is the end of the story.*
Non è corretta la comparazione . Con il Mora più comparare l F1X
I am also disappointed with the rounded spine. I thought about grinding it but have not done so after 3 years. The thin handle is workable and not a deal breaker since I usually wear gloves. You are correct that this isn't a bushcraft knife. For me it works as a woodsman/hunting knife. It does great with maintaining its sharpness throughout the dressing and butchering of a deer carcass. The mass and heft works well with chopping deer ribs at the spine making great chops for grilling. I have the A1X as well and it is an even better chopper but can be too large at times for hunting purposes. As a survival knife either are suitable after a spine sharpening. Regardless I agree with your assessments.
Do you like thinner or thicker blades for hunting? A customer told me he wants a hunters knife made, so I'll make it, right now I think thinner would be better? Let me know some insight!
Hello AB, the issues I have with hunting knives are that for the size and heft, I prefer to carry a larger 6inch+ woodsman knife, and in addition carry a high quality folder like a Coldsteel Code 4, or even up to an AD10 and everything in between. The larger knife for moderate bone work like the ribs, sturnum, or even the pelvis. The larger knife is also great for quartering whole carcasses where you get cleaner cuts in large thick areas of flesh like separating the thigh from the pelvis. The smaller thin good quality steel like an S35VN is great for delicate work ti minimize waste in separating flesh from bone, ie. Backstraps and tenderloins, but most importantly skinning game so plenty of belly is required.
So for a dedicated hunting/game processing knife I would prefer around 5 inches, 3.5 to 4.5mm thick, and the grip on the thinner side, but not as thin as the Fallkniven Xs. I can get by with my S1X because I use it in addition to my hunting folder. Lastly a good quality steel like CPM-3V for edge retention against bone, no chopping but constantly scraping against bone, and for a more stainless quality due to blood and wet environment.
In any redgards AB, every hunter has their own list of preferences. Just give your client choices in length and thickness for both blade and grip, blade profile and grind, choice in blade and grip/handle material. Possibly weight, to help narrow down choices.
Good luck!
@samthai818 good insight! Thanks! Have a great day
Mi sembri un po incompetente...