Thanks John for another fantastic applied biochemistry lesson. I enjoy the podcasts, but your practice based soil and plant webinars have always been my favourite. I love unraveling the mysteries of the soil-plant interaction and observing them in the field. ...and perfect timing ... I've just taken on a greenhouse with very high phosphorus and zinc levels. More this kind of video please.
The big question for which I haven't seen an answer yet, is what happens for veggie farmers that grow tomatoes or summer veggie from seed in pots with a potting mix that has soluble phosphorus and potassium in it ? Because some mixes have NPK fertilizer, some have just N, some have nothing but mature compost. The ones that have mature compost are sadly of poor quality most of the time (lots of twigs and branches) and will get you yellow leaves due nitrogen depletion. So will the potting mix with NPK fertilizer create yield drag once you plant in the ground ? Are you better off doing a mixture of soil and compost, then adding organic nitrogen like beet molasses or fish hydrolysate ? Is there any study that compares the two ? Coz whenever I plant veggies in the ground, whether it's tomatoes or peppers, it needs a couple of weeks to start growing again. I wonder how much of that time can be reduced, if it's all due to transplant shock, or if the transition from soluble P and K to organic P and K nutrition is at fault here.
Is it possible to folair feed phosphorus for the first 2 weeks Then add lets say map or dap to bell pepper plants? Will allow enough time for beneficials to attach to roots
From my understanding through the academy and dozens of John's webinars, yes. You want the plants to focus on establishing microbial relationships. Even on a transplanted tree with an existing symbiosis, I understand soluble Phos can jeopardize this as well. inoculate and give it some time before adding fertilizers.
Think about oak trees… they start out growing slowly(building microbial partners) and once they have filled the roster they reach for the sky. I think that’s why some are referred to as mother trees because they have cultivated years of relationships with soil biome. Also think about who feeds the oaks and redwoods…gotta be mycorrhizae and friends
@@AlphaSierra375 Interesting. I guess I have to prioritize building those relationships, probably by adding more organic matter to the soil. I am trying to figure out what to do with my soil, because I have planted a whole lot of trees. ornamental and fruit trees. About 100. And just a few days ago I received the results of a soil analysis. It says that I have a big phosphorous deficiency and I have really excessive calcium. What I was going to do is follow the recommendations of the laboratory. Which is adding to the soil a proportion of NPK of around 18-7-4. Plus 3 parts of magnesium to counteract the absorption inhibiting quality that excessive calcium create. But now, I am not sure if this is the correct thing to do since soluble phosphorous apparently is not a friend of plants.
Who would add fertilizer to fruit trees though ? It's so unnecessary, at worst you need compost and wood chips, but in most cases, just wood chips is enough. The only people who could "need" fertilizers is people who have bad techniques like bare soils, tilling and herbicides.
Didn't hear you mention it, but once the growing plant gets stressed (as when the soluble phosphate disappears), then the bugs come. I'm always amazed when growers are so occupied with pest management, but then they've already disclosed using 10-10-10 during planting, so not so surprising I guess.
Hi John, wonderful as always! I grow berries in Italy, I have never used soluble phosphorus, I only give organic fertilizers and microorganisms to the soil, but from sap analysis I always have P deficiency, which I can only resolve with foliar applications. What could be the reason? Soil pH is 6.5. I also often find Fe, K and N deficiency
Berries? Organic fertilizers are? Microorganisms from? Tea? Extract? Location? Management? No till? Cover crops? C:N ratio of soil? Penetrometer? EC? Infiltration rate? legacy issues? Your brix would be low. Insect, disease issues? Weather? Irrigation? Biomass ratio? Using a microscope how does the soil look? What do you see?
Canola does not host mycorrhizal fungi. Soluble phosphorus is commonly added to the band or seedrow at planting with positive results and is far more efficient than broadcast. You need to show data behind your claims because they can be misleading and have potential to negatively impact a growers bottom line. Until such time growers should rely on the good work of "mainstream" researchers and extension agents. If the effect is so significant then the data should be easy to present.
The only bottom line being hurt by a farmer’s soil functioning is your employer’s. Your account was made just prior to making this comment, intriguing.
Thanks John for another fantastic applied biochemistry lesson. I enjoy the podcasts, but your practice based soil and plant webinars have always been my favourite. I love unraveling the mysteries of the soil-plant interaction and observing them in the field. ...and perfect timing ... I've just taken on a greenhouse with very high phosphorus and zinc levels. More this kind of video please.
Very good, thanks. Big difference between freely available and readily available!
The big question for which I haven't seen an answer yet, is what happens for veggie farmers that grow tomatoes or summer veggie from seed in pots with a potting mix that has soluble phosphorus and potassium in it ? Because some mixes have NPK fertilizer, some have just N, some have nothing but mature compost. The ones that have mature compost are sadly of poor quality most of the time (lots of twigs and branches) and will get you yellow leaves due nitrogen depletion. So will the potting mix with NPK fertilizer create yield drag once you plant in the ground ? Are you better off doing a mixture of soil and compost, then adding organic nitrogen like beet molasses or fish hydrolysate ? Is there any study that compares the two ? Coz whenever I plant veggies in the ground, whether it's tomatoes or peppers, it needs a couple of weeks to start growing again. I wonder how much of that time can be reduced, if it's all due to transplant shock, or if the transition from soluble P and K to organic P and K nutrition is at fault here.
Is it possible to folair feed phosphorus for the first 2 weeks Then add lets say map or dap to bell pepper plants? Will allow enough time for beneficials to attach to roots
Hello. Thank you for the presentation. Is this phenomenon relevant for fruit trees?
From my understanding through the academy and dozens of John's webinars, yes. You want the plants to focus on establishing microbial relationships. Even on a transplanted tree with an existing symbiosis, I understand soluble Phos can jeopardize this as well. inoculate and give it some time before adding fertilizers.
its very relevant for all plants, and especially for fungus dependant trees.
Think about oak trees… they start out growing slowly(building microbial partners) and once they have filled the roster they reach for the sky. I think that’s why some are referred to as mother trees because they have cultivated years of relationships with soil biome. Also think about who feeds the oaks and redwoods…gotta be mycorrhizae and friends
@@AlphaSierra375 Interesting. I guess I have to prioritize building those relationships, probably by adding more organic matter to the soil. I am trying to figure out what to do with my soil, because I have planted a whole lot of trees. ornamental and fruit trees. About 100. And just a few days ago I received the results of a soil analysis. It says that I have a big phosphorous deficiency and I have really excessive calcium. What I was going to do is follow the recommendations of the laboratory. Which is adding to the soil a proportion of NPK of around 18-7-4. Plus 3 parts of magnesium to counteract the absorption inhibiting quality that excessive calcium create. But now, I am not sure if this is the correct thing to do since soluble phosphorous apparently is not a friend of plants.
Who would add fertilizer to fruit trees though ? It's so unnecessary, at worst you need compost and wood chips, but in most cases, just wood chips is enough. The only people who could "need" fertilizers is people who have bad techniques like bare soils, tilling and herbicides.
Hello would applications of micronized calcium phosphate act similarly to soluable phosphorus or would it be less detrimental to fungi?
Didn't hear you mention it, but once the growing plant gets stressed (as when the soluble phosphate disappears), then the bugs come. I'm always amazed when growers are so occupied with pest management, but then they've already disclosed using 10-10-10 during planting, so not so surprising I guess.
Hi John, wonderful as always! I grow berries in Italy, I have never used soluble phosphorus, I only give organic fertilizers and microorganisms to the soil, but from sap analysis I always have P deficiency, which I can only resolve with foliar applications. What could be the reason? Soil pH is 6.5. I also often find Fe, K and N deficiency
Berries? Organic fertilizers are? Microorganisms from? Tea? Extract? Location? Management? No till? Cover crops? C:N ratio of soil? Penetrometer? EC? Infiltration rate? legacy issues? Your brix would be low. Insect, disease issues? Weather? Irrigation? Biomass ratio? Using a microscope how does the soil look? What do you see?
If sol phosphate causes this, does that mean only sol phos? So sol N&K application was ok for fungi colonization as long as no sol P at planting?
Could we consider no till 2.0 as pro-root?
RUclips is getting ridiculous with the amount of ads!
If soluble phos is not available within a week, how does the plant become reliant on it after such a short time.
You no listen!
What about triple super phosphate?
If Taimoor Malik watching please reply. Rafe from India
that magnesium vs. phosphorus influence on roots info is kinda disturbing...blessings to all
Canola does not host mycorrhizal fungi. Soluble phosphorus is commonly added to the band or seedrow at planting with positive results and is far more efficient than broadcast.
You need to show data behind your claims because they can be misleading and have potential to negatively impact a growers bottom line. Until such time growers should rely on the good work of "mainstream" researchers and extension agents. If the effect is so significant then the data should be easy to present.
The only bottom line being hurt by a farmer’s soil functioning is your employer’s.
Your account was made just prior to making this comment, intriguing.
@@inigomontoya8943 one beet one time does not make science or effective and profitable agronomy
Whoa, more advertisements that a trump bible reading