What's inside a CFL, schematic, waveforms, failures
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
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Today, let's take a look what's inside a Compact Fluorescent Lamp (CFL). I also reverse engineer the schematic and explain how does it work, I talk about possible failures and how to fix them, and I show some waveforms on my oscilloscope.
Cat: reviews schematic for accuracy.
Diodegonewild: pets cat.
The force is well balanced here.
There are also dog autotransformer controller at 10:45.
This guy is the most didactic to teach that I have seen on RUclips Genius!
Thanks for revealing the black magic behind the schematic
The word "black" is important. These tubes are actually "dark suckers", and the electronics is used to start and run the sucking operation. You can see the darkened end of the spiral tube where the lamp has sucked up too much darkness and the filament has failed. If you look carefully, you will see that fluorescent tubes always start off pure white, but after many years of sucking darkness they become blackened. Sometimes you will find one that kept running long enough to get completely full of darkness, but usually the support electronics fail before they get 100% full.
@@johncoops6897 fax no printer
As a lighting engineer, I am amazed at how well this was explained. Many people will miss the fine details like the spluttering of the electrodes, etc. Excellent explanation of these now archaic devices.
The dog looks worried. " Master is playing with electricity again. Hope he fills my feed dish first in case something goes wrong!"
Excellent and comprehensive explanation as always. You're the best teacher I've ever seen. If you explain anything, the crash test dummy will understand it, and so will my cat. Bravo!
Nice detailed breakdown of how they work.
Missed you a lot, Danyk. Thank you for another video!
I always learn something new from you. Sniffing the inductors with a single turn is just too good. I will remember that.
Quite clever location of the electrolytic cap, in the base as far from the hot lamp as possible
Fun Fact: CFLs generally have two inductor cores (a cylindrical one and a toroidial one) which can be re-wound to use in a simple "Joule Thief" circuit. In fact, there is plenty of wire on the cylindrical inductor for you to re-wind both of them with lots of wire left over.
You know those cheap LED strings which use 2x 1.5V AA cells? I've re-wired a few of those and packed the Joule Thief circuit into the space taken by one AA cell so the whole string runs off of the remaining AA cell. You get around the same life, but for half the cost.
Excellent explanation of functions of all components. Best I've seen. Thank you.
Testing cfl with two screwdrivers off the live socket? :) are you trying to beat electroboom guy? ;)
Electroboom would have "accidentally" crossed the screwdrivers resulting in a huge shower of sparks.
Diodegonewild is best video channel. Thank yous so much , i learn more infromation from this channel
It is always a good day when DGW uploads
You are so smart, I love watching your videos, so educational.
They look remarkably similar to a couple in my kitchen, you've saved me the job of doing my own autopsy on them
Very good explanations.Keep it up.
Excellent and interesting information about those circuits! Thank you.
Thanks Mr. DGW for this long awaited video about CFLs.
As always including schematic and details of operation to your videos makes them invaluable.
A small remark: I think the component in 22:07 is a diac not a diode.
Sorry, I was mistakenly heard it as "diode" but repeating that part clarify that you said "diac".
Gosh that screw driver hack got me laughing. I do that sometimes too. Hahaha
9:00 Wow, as a child I had the same metal tea box to collect something in it. TIME WARP. 🙃
Even a tea boxes was better last century. :-)
Pls make video on what's inside chargers i love to watch 😍😍
And love you from India ☺️☺️
Excellent analysis
Please do a video on induction cooker.
That would be awesome if you could elaborate on how circuits could be manipulated by changing values of components, in order to achieve different output.
Let's test them using a dodgy way... I bust out laughing! That was AWESOME.
Wonderful vídeo, I never get how this lamps works, the schematics looks super weird for me, thanks for sharing
17:00 this actually is not a classic forward switcher, but an LC resonant switcher. The capacitor is not a middle point but part of the LC resonance and periodically charged and discharged over the half bridge (hence the 160V on average).
Complete informative video.i also like to UV light driver thanks
2:03 - nice tips & trick
Perhaps using a resistor between the wires to the blown heater rather than shorting them would provide a more durable repair.
I used 10ohm and repaired 3 lamps: first one lasted 1 month, second blow up after 5 minutes and last one didn't last 1 minute. So if tube is worn out it is always temporary repair.
@Rocky Robinson Where I live entire CFLs with ballast were cheaper than bare tubes due to energy efficiency incentive programs so replacing the tube would almost never make sense. Although I did have one unit which failed right away in the startup circuit. I took the good tube from that and paired it with the ballast from one with a burnt out tube.
I open mine broken osram cfl and reuse bulb part, on mine electronic failed. Reuse bulb part and make it preheat, put some magnetic ballast and old neon starter. still works fine in my homemade lamp.
More smps repairs please
Don't short heater pins.... use 4.7 ohoms 1/2w resistor .... it will run last long
Better put 8 Ohm so you balance inrush current as before!
You should add more dog autotransformer controller in your videos too. Or perhaps both pets.
I love your vids
Great video as always Dany, one observation, If the heaters/filaments are in series it may have been better to bypass the open one with a resistor so the good one doesn't see twice the normal voltage/current 🤔 its very similar to the " electronic transformer " circuit
Nice teardown :) I don't like CFLs though to be honest, because LEDs are way better in terms of lifespan, switching on/off cycles, and energy efficiency. Incandescent and halogen bulbs (whilst you can still get them on eBay) are also nice for use with dimmer switches, or for a traditional light (or in cupboards/areas where rapid switching of the bulbs means that CFLs and LEDs make no sense).
Thanks for the info..👍👌
Hey, I have a question.
Is it possible to add a PTC thermister on a instant-on CFL (at the place one is in a pre-heat CFL)?
"...and this is my dog." 😅
🐶😒 "Oi, cut it out hooman! You're embarrassing me..."
Stylish way... 23:58 lowerrrr
are the voltages directly on the tube measurables?. Amazing video theres a lot of tricks
"bruuute forceee" ... Nice bigclive reference there...
11:48 Best WELL ever!
Just gave me an idea how to make a CFL test tool for older TVs
I think this lamps same as you open them few years ago when one of them making pink light due to no mercury inside of tube.
@oH well,lord! it could be because i remember exact same lamps and they were working that time
Nice info, can we replace the flourescent tube only, one element is open, thanks :)
can you replace the broken heater with equivalent resistor? Or maybe with inductor?
Never bypass a dead heater with a short! You have to add a resistor!
Thanks for sharing!
TNX 4 ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO !!!
i think the uv, visible light and heat from the tube broke down the plastic and made it offgas/turn brown. These things would have been more reliable with better thermal management
- The interface inductor...
- My caaat...
🤣🤣🤣
Need to train the cat to get some beer for the frig so next time he visits you will have some thing cool to drink! Lol Great video, Thanks! :-D
Never knew if there's any sealed ccfl, usually saw the one with exposed spirals
bad design, the heat from tube must broke the circuits
I wonder if the old tube repair would last longer if you put an 8Ohm resistor in place instead of shorting the old heater. It may make the other heater last longer.
Absolutely
electronic ballasts are better than old magnetic type with starters because when tube goes to end of life on electronic ballasts just shuts off but on magnetics start to flicker because ballast can't hold arc inside the tube and the starter try to start it and the cyclus repeats over and over until starter burn out. After that lamps just glows orange on cathodes and uses electricity doing nothing. If the fixture is in some commercial panel or in warehouse it can use electricity for years doing nothing, just glowing orange on ends.
Kde jsi je sehnal (v té době)? Taky sháním podobné GU10.
Downloaded
When the diac failed it doesnt start up?
Why does the CFL look familiar?
now i finally see the voltage output 1.6 kv
Please blow up the first one by shorting the inrush resistor! :D
Best english
I'm your subscriber from India.
Your all videos are nice and very very informative.
Please reverse engineering schematic of diesel Generator Automatic Voltage Regulator (AVR) please please 🙏🙏😊😊
Can you explain how your power-meter works?
Everytime he says "dodgy" my mousehand automaticly clicks the thumb :D
do the cat & dog come along ?
10:45 = Cat turned into dog, that is why, it is so shy.
👏👏👏
hi, how are you are measuring the ac power with that dmm ? can you please teach us ? :)
Bloody hell!
It looks like you drew your schematics using AutoCAT.
the interference cat 14:00
How much exactly is the voltage across th neon tube... (across the 1,6 kv capacitor)?
I'd guess barely 100V when running, but several times higher during startup.
Hey does it is possible to use the electonic blast within the CFL or Tubelight as SMPS without feedback
It's definitely possible, but it may not be practical. In most cases it's better to use a power supply with a feedback. The CFL inverter maybe could be used as an electronic halogen transformer.
Good
ارجوك .................اين الترجمه المصاحبه للفيديو
How on earth you draw /trace the schematic?. Is there a simple method to do it?
No. But if you know how these circuits are usually built, or you have schematic of similar device and you try do it often you can learn it. It help make photos of each side.
Sir, how can we measure amps, watts, current etc with the help of a multimeter. Please reply.
danyk.cz/wmetr_en.html
The shunt resistor is changed from 0.4 ohm to 4 ohm (additional 3.6 ohm) for the x0.1 range.
@@DiodeGoneWild Thank you for correcting me. That circuit is more complex, then I thought.
do you seen videos from amperak ?
Even more salt !!!
only DGW would shove screwdrivers into a power socket to test a lightbulb lmao
never change
This video is 25 minutes long. Four minutes after being published someone says they’ve learned a lot and watched the whole thing. Am just here crunching numbers ....hihihi
My patrons can see my videos a day or two before they are published :).
I like 🐈
More like DialectGoneWild? 😂😂😂
l liked the vídeo!.
این چرا اینجوری حرف میزنه why is taking like that
Crowd killer 2.0
S'il te plait, une traduction.
13:48👉🏻fullbriDge RectiFIeeeeRRR 😃😃😃😂😂😂
Where's the cat?
What a horrible inefficient design. I wonder what the lumens per watt is for those, compared to a halogen lamp with a proper placed reflector.
Well that’s bin a wäääääil
HiiiiIII How are youuuuuUU ?
glyue 😆
All of your schematics are incomplete because you never explain characteristics of element called "cat". :D
11:05 "dog location" to the "cat location"😂, I like it!
when did he get a dog :O
@@rkan2 He had a dog already, the dog was featured in some of the previous videos as well.