@11:55 If your rear cassette seems to wobble a bit too much even with all the spacers in place and the lockring is tightened to spec, it’s a blooming good idea to check the tightness of the freehub lock bolt. This gets overlooked often. I’ve had a factory-built wheelset on a brand-new, LBS-assembled-and-checked bike that had accidentally shipped with the freehub bolt loose, so speaking from experience here. :)
I've been watching GMBN tech since it started, and GMBN and GCN before that (still watch them all). Doddy has an incredible ability to explain, describe, demonstrate all aspects of bike mechanics. Continue the absolutely first rate job.
To the bikepacking guy: I have that BigHonzo - bear in mind that it has no rack bosses and only one bottlecage mount, so you'd have to go light (with bags, not panniers)
also, when inflating a Schrader you have to overcome the tension of the spring with each stroke (tiring when using a small handpump). it's a sprung valve. the presta on the other hand are easier, as the pressure differential alone will be opening it and you'll be way easier to inflate.
GMBN Tech since car tyres are mainly around 25-30 psi (up to 80 on HGVs), it's not a problem. And since they are pumped up using air compressors, there was no need for transition to presta or other newer design. So even as tubeless, they kept the Schrader. It's a robust design suitable for that environment
B screw - Shimano usually around 6-8mm. Latest SRAM (11/12) usually around 15-18mm. start there and see if the shifting improves. You want to measure the distance between the top of the guide pulley and the largest cassette ring. SRAM do make a handy tool for this.
Hi Doddy, why rim manufacturers don't start using Shradder valves to MTB bikes? They are cheaper, much less prone to cloging due to the sealant drying and you dont need adapter when calibrating on a fuel station! Also, Bobcat could become the GMBN Tech mascot, but should help you get that Santa Cruz project up and running sooner! I'd love to see reviews about those third parties components!
Shraders always break on mtb because the base is made of rubber and are more prone to drift under the low pressures mountain bikes run. I snapped and punched holes in shraders all the time on my old bike trying to run low pressure. Presta has a little nut that holds it in place and are less likely to drift since the base can be completely in contact with the rim. When shraders sometimes had a little gap.
Thanks for the suggestions on bike packing rigs Doddy. Funny that I have been also looking at the Kona Big Honzo and my wife has a Rocky Mountain Sherpa.
Florian Käselau Haha. Drilling a hole dosent require a lot of skills or special tools. But drilling a hole in the wrong spot can be bad and even a very skilled mechanic could do that.. then again not too many frames break at the seat tube so I'm pretty sure a metal frame could be modded safely, carbon not so easily.
Shraders clog up with the sealant immediately. I've tried a ghetto tubeless conversion once using Shrader valves and it had to replace clogged valve cores each week.
Really? We've seen Stans NoTubes schrader valves, and just assumed they would work. Interesting! Maybe we should give them a go and see if they work as well as presta.
I haven't seen them before. Nice to know. Maybe they use different cores? Standard Shrader valve cores I've got had a rubber seal while Presta has plasticy looking one which may not cause latex sealant to stick as much as the rubber does.
13:25 it could also be faulty or worn out freehub, this is very common issue on cheaper Shimano hubs, for me they are useless, I destroy them fast, for example m475 hubs, I also bent axles after just few trips to the grocery stores. So I upgraded to hope, no play, some of these issues are caused by flawed design,horrible tolerances, you can't service those freehubs without special tool that is almost impossible to get. But it's not only those hubs that got issue with play, I had issues with Formula hub too, also it had zero grease in bearing, after 90 km it was wobbly. they both were so wobbly that it caused shifting issues and noisy drivetrain, but my local shop calls this normal, for me its unacceptable. but it could also be that the freehub is not secured properly, old school freehubs have an Allen bolt usually 10 & 11mm, if it's loose the freehub will wobble, so use Loctite 243/blue and tighten properly and it should be secured for a long time.
Do you recommend purchasing a New but, Clearance 2013 DH bike? How many years are parts and components available after production year? 2013 in this case obviously...
Hey Derber's, a 2013 bike is quite out of date in many regards. It could be a great bike still, but the geometry might be very short and fairly steep, compared to some enduro bikes and even trail bikes. If it's a real bargain, then it may be worth it.
I can barely manual my bike at all but it's mostly just because yes, it is super long, but I don't want to put on a higher rise bar. I actually slammed the cockpit as far down as I could because the bike is so huge and the head tube is super long. I've just come to accept that I can't manual this bike.
colin p Yes...thou it suggests ur post or clamp might not be the right size....if ur post and frame are different materials (e.g. steel frame, alloy post) is essential to use some compound or grease even (if u didnt have movement!) To prevent seizure
I bought my first proper bike about seven months ago,it's a 2017 trek x caliber 8, I'm 15 and am getting a bit more into riding and really enjoying it, would you say it's worth getting a full suspension as well, I've been looking at a Norco fs 1 but am not sure if I should just keep the hardtail and not get a full sus to save a bit of money,what do you think? cheers 👍
Got a question about setting up a 10 speed to 7 speed. I got a atomlab DHR rear hub and it only fits 7 cogs. I took a shimano ultegra 6700 road cassette and removed 3 cogs. My question is shifter set up. I dont like having 3 dead shifts at the bottom, can I modify a my saint shifter to make it 7 speed? Or I have seen block that fits on the cable to limit the shifter cable movement. What is your advice. I have zee derailleur and saint shifter
#askgmbntech Hi guys, love your videos, but I just wanted to know what’s the differencebetween the colour of the stanchions, from silver, to black to kashima. Is there a best option?
#askgmbntech one of my buddy recently bough a lightly used derailleur, cassette and crankset with a narrow-wide chainring, but the chain is slightly older then those, so when he cranks down hard, it makes a crunching sound, is the chain to blame?
Miku Cavendish probably, i had the same problem so i cleaned and lubed the chain and the sound went away. there’s a chance it could be the bottom bracket tho
My buddy recently developed this grinding and we tried to clean the drivetrain really well with no luck. New chain, no luck. New narrow wide chainring did the trick
I've seen a similar problem in the past where an old chain was used with a new casette and chainrings... When putting power down hard (e.g. pedalling up a steep hill) the chain would slip and make a crunching sound like you describe. The cranks would also jerk forward when this happened. A new chain fixed the problem for me.
#askgmbntech Hi GMBN, I'm using Shimano SPD mountain bike pedals, and when I'm pedaling the left pedal is making a clicking sound. Is that normal or is there something wrong with my pedals and/or cleats?
If everything is tight, use your hands to put some pressure on the pedals while you backpedal. If you get the click, it’s the bearings in the pedal shaft. Live with it or replace. If you don’t click then, add a bit of grease to the surface where the cleat and the pedal meet (the inside edge) - just a thin film.
Thank you for your suggestion Craig, I didn't get the click when backpedaling (and I applied quite a lot of pressure), so I put a thin film of grease on like you suggested, but I'm still getting the clicking noise. Is there anything else that I could try?
I see cats and I hit the like button. I would definitely like to see Bobcat become the GMBN Tech mascot. You're a good man looking after a cat for a mate.
#askgmbn I thinking about upgrading my rotors from 180mm to 203mm. My bikes a 2015 cube stereo 160 with rockshox pike forks. What brake adapters would I need for the bigger rotors?
It depends on your brake calipers but it'll be a 43mm adapter, should be post to post if yours is the same as the picture of the bike I found (most bikes are post to post) and get the one that matches the brand of brake you use
#askgmbntech Hey! I have a 2012 Scott spark 40 with Reba fork and DT swiss shock. It has a twinloc function, and I do not know if it is OK to use it when I am riding. I am asking because when I am on the bike, and the shock is a bit compressed in due to the weight of my body, after locking it the piston can move backwards a bit and make a knocking sound (the situation is when the shock does not have much weight to be pushed in, so it would normally go back to default position). I really want to know if I can damage the shock or not. Thanks for the help in advance!
#ASKGMBNTECH I currently have deore m6000 gs derailleur and im planning to have an oval front chainring, should I do it since my derailleur have a clutch mechanism
#askgmbnTECH I got myself new dirt jump bike(mafia blackjack) and i dont know if i should sell my brake and buy suspension fork or stay with brake and non-suspension fork?
#ASKGMBMTECH Doddy, I'm running Shimano MT500 brakes I run them so I have power at my finger length. For some reason when I'm going downhill they lose the power in the first part and I have to pull them up to the bar to get full power. What could be causing this? If I'm going up hill or on a flat they are fine and maintain the correct setting for my finger length.
#askgmbntech Hey Doddy! love the show. I'm looking for an enduro bike for riding whistler bike park as well as trails around Vancouver (going to university there) I am torn between a Santa Cruz Bronson and nomad. does the 10mm difference in travel make much of a difference? or are they both perfectly capable of handling the trails? also would there be a big difference between a 150mm bike and a 170mm bike?
#askgmbntech Im in the market for new wheelset(for XC only) looking into DT swiss xrc/xmc difference is 25vs30mm and 140g more for XMC, which ones to buy ? Saw that Nino is sometimes using XMC set. thanks!
Don't be afraid to clamp the post. Just make sure the clamp is clean, or maybe wrap a towel around the stanchion so it doesn't get scratched. Also, if possible, let the clamp head rotate freely so that there is minimal shear stress on both the frame and the post. Most manufacturers hang their demo fleet by the dropper all year long, I wouldn't worry too much about it.
The reason NOT to clap the stanchion of a dropper is the leverage on the internal keys (mechanism) in a plane its not designed to hold against...as well as scratching risk....either loosen the clamp and pull it up enough to clamp.outer tube, or clamp around the top of bike seat tube and the 'nut' between the stanchion and lower if its sunk fully into ur frame....top tube is possible, but again not designed to take a clamping load, espec if its butted (thinner walls in the middle than ends)
Rupert Wenn if the clamp head can freely rotate there a no radial forces applied on the mechanism. The axial load from the weight of the bike is minimal compared to what it is designed to sustain. Those "shop monkeys" have worked on far more dropper posts than you ever will.
#askgmbntech Do you think that with the emergence of e bikes we will see e bikes in the future with air compressors and run flat tires or adjustable shock pressure on the trail??? Cheers
Steven Chabot yah i saw that looks interesting. In mean so that you could change pressure as you ride and not need to stop. Not sure if possible just a crazy idea
#askgmbntech hey Doddy love the show I have a specialized pitch comp size small and it came with a 80 mm travel fork. The other sizes of my bike come with 100mm I was wondering if I can upgrade to a fork with 120mm travel or if I should just go up to 100mm thanks
Hey Kent, Specialized often offer their small and extra small bikes with shorter travel forks to keep the riding position similar across the range. You could probably go up to 120mm if that's what you're after, but we wouldn't suggest any more than that. It will change the geometry a bit, raising the bottom bracket and lifting the front end.
#askgmbntech I love the tech channel doddy, you’re the right man for the job! I want to ask a technical question about 1x drivetrains. I’ve heard that that the 1x chainring sits so close to the frame that when you are in your smallest sprocket out back, it throws the chain line off and causes extra friction. Causing a loss in power. What are your thoughts?
#askgmbntech I am upgrading my wheelset to a maxxis dhf and a maxxis shorty. it is recommended I run the the dhf on the rear do you think this will be a nice wheelset and if not what changes should be made
The DHF can make a great rear tyre. Generally if you want to run only one shorty, run it up front. But only run a shorty in really muddy and loose conditions. The DHR II can also be run up front (the R does stand for rear, but isn't limited to the rear). If you aren't riding in really gross conditions, maybe run a DHF front and rear.
Hey I really love your videos , it would be soo helpful for me if you can help me . So the problem is my fork is getting loose and if I try to tighten it ,it just keeps moving ....
Hi AD...hp valves are hp for the obvious reason actually...to fit road and espec track bike tyres running at up to 160psi...Schrader would be unreliable at best, lethal at worst, at these pressures (and imagine the core blowing out...wud be a lethal bullet!). They are narrow to fit the rims and minimise fatigue risk from a big hole:rim ratio. They are used in mtb purely for this last reason, rim strength. Car tyres are typically only 30 psi and vans about 70psi. Not up to 160 presta (hp)needs to withstand ....nothing to do with high pressure environments sorry😉
The Schrader site lists up to 550 bar or about 8000 psi. Those may be special but I’ve seen people who make air cannons run standard valves at 1000 psi.
Hello gmbn, my stepdad has got a merlin Excalibur, I've messaged merlin themselves however they had no information for me about the bike, please may you try to find any information, thanks.
#askgnbmtech I ride a custom steel XC bike and I want to put a dropper seatpost on it. The problem is that the seatpost diameter is 25.4 mm, is there any dropper compatible with this diameter? And is there an option without the remote lever? My bike don't have the proper cable routing and I prefer my cockpit without the extra lever/cable. Chers
#askgmbntech #ASKGMBNTECH Hey guys, I'm after a new mtb as my fs bike is old, tired, rusty and i fancy going for a hardtail. I was wondering what your opinion is on the Trek Roscoe 8? I ride local trails, bike parks, hitting big mountains, jump parks and doing downhill (nothing seriously steep..), thanks.
#askgmbntech what difference to the ride and feel of the bike when there's less travel in the rear than the front, e.g. commencal clash, rather than same both ends?
kind of what you'd expect, you get a front that will take hits big and small will ease to keep you safe and in control while generally also getting the pedaling efficiency and playfulness that comes with less travel in the rear. I'm not sure the Clash is the best example as it's still a rather long travel bike; I'm on a 150/125 Transition and it's fantastic, the back end is a little stiff for DH and can definitely get a little wild but the geo and longer travel forks mean it'll keep you in control on some serious descents. It's ideal for flow trails too
#askgmbntech i have a Trek Roscoe 8 with a sram nx 1 by 11 and in the middle range of gears it won't always shift and when it does shift it skips gears. at the lower and upper range of gears it shifts fine how can i fix it
#askgmbntech hi Doddy. I’ve got a 2010 kona Jake the Snake with v-brakes. They are shocking! Is it possible to upgrade them to something that might actually stop me? I’m pretty certain that I cant retrofit disc brakes 😕 the bike is completely stock. Thanks in advance!
#askgmbntech Can you help me choose between either the felt decree 3 or the dartmoor hornet pro just looking at the specs and comparing the quality of them( such as brakes, forks, hubs etc) ? I can get both for a price of about 2000€ and they would both suit my terrain. I am simply not sure about the components on it
I recommend to buy all the tools you need for the jobs you can do now, and buy the best tools you can, instead of buying a kit, tool kits might have tools you don't need and a box you don't need. there are plenty of choices, for repair stand I recommend PRS 3.2-2 for tools: Parktool Unior Abbey Tools you can also get some sockets and bits and so on from non cycling brands some tools are better than others from each brand, so good idea to mix, check out what pro mechanics use. I got a mix of Teng tools, Abbey tools, Park tools, Pedros, Unior, Racpid Racer Products, I will add more tools in the future, I need a proper ratchet. I am still researching tools. kit.com/mtbboy1993/my-tool-reccomendations This tool box looks great: www.pinkbike.com/news/whats-in-a-world-cup-mechanics-toolbox-2017.html Pelican case with foam inserts www.fastcap.com/product/kaizen-foam I haven't tried it yet. but looks like a good solution.
I can't recommend those, it will have tools you might not need, unless you got the bottom bracket the tool is for, and so on, pointless to get tool kits. and it still don't have enough tools to start with.
#askgmbntech What are the benefits of going with a Shimano/Giro/5-10 brand flat pedal shoe? I know some of the soles have good grip and the upper is often weather-proofed, but would I be cheating myself by going with a midtop Vans shoe or something similar rather than an MTB specific shoe? Thanks for the content and for sharing your wealth of MTB knowledge!
#askgmbntech Hello guys! i finsished my chain lube and in this very moment i can`t get a new one (i have to command one) and my chain started to make funny noises. What can i use as a chain lube for a while?
#AskGMBNTech so I started to notice a weird sound on my freehub. Like it snagged at some point every time it rotated when freewheeling. Opened it up, turns out the freehub body is cracked... On the inside. How the f*ck does that even happen?!?!
#askgmbntech i've got two questions actually. First: I've saw by several people (including my self) that the front brakes of shimano (XT, Deore and Saint i've seen so far) dont get to the pressure point that early as the back break. in case of my own bike i even dont get the braking force high enough with one finger to lock up the front wheel when rolling in walking pace. I've bleeded my breaks several times. always the same issue. what could it be? Second: How do ingeneers in bike companies design the suspension linkages? especially in regards of whether it behaves progressive or linear. its way to expensive to change suspension systems if you've got to design the whole thing with chains etc to simulate it. so where do they take the shortcuts? in general i would love to see a bit more of the way the ingeneers work in those companies. so maybe a video series about this would be very interesting. Thx, and keep on the good work!
I think the brake issue might be down to feel and grip. I can lock my rear wheel easily with a br-m485 with 160mm rotors and I have issues with locking the front with a deore paired with a 180mm rotor. Not a good idea to lock the front wheel anyway. When it comes to suspension design, they use computer software to simulate the linkage.
Hey Philip, take a look at cleaning your brakes if you haven't already: gmbn.eu/cleandiscs Other than that, it might be that your brake pads and discs are worn down to the point that they need replacing.
#askgmbntech are slime inner tubes any good I can't convert to tubeless as it means changing tyres and rims which I can't afford right now but I want the benefits
#askgmbntech Hi Doddy, Im looking into buying a mid travel full suspension bike for around 2000€(2500$). Do you have any recommendations on what bike it should be, or maybe should I build my own bike? Loving the vids, keep up the good work!
Check out Canyon, YT and Radon for online options and good value for money. Otherwise, Giant, Trek or Specialized for the bike brand peace of mind. The Giant Trance and Specialized Stumpjumper come to mind.
#askgmbntech Hi Doddy! Big fan of the show! Really love it. I really like the sound of the black rubbery mastic tape. Would be awesome to make some chainstay protector off it. I have been trying to find it but without any luck. I live in Sweden and I am wondering if you know any sites that are shipping to Europe (Sweden)? Keep up the great work! Best regards Mikael
#askgmbntech Hey Doddy! I would like yo upgrade to fork on my bike, but my bike has a 1.5" head tube and i cant find any good forks. So i was thinking of gettin a adapter for my head tube. Could you reccomend any good headtube adapters? Cheers! Btw dont try to pronounce my username
Hey! So, it sounds like your bike has a 50mm (external) diameter headtube (44mm internal). You could fit a fork with a straight steerer, or one with a tapered steerer, but you would need to get the right headset. The bottom cup needs to be an external cup, so the code you're looking for is EC44 (external cup 44). The top would be ZS44. Cane Creek, Hope and Nukeproof all do headsets that will fit. They usually sell the top and bottom cup separately to fit a wide range of headtubes.
I gave my bike to this mechanic so he could replace the free hub body as I didn’t have the tools, he ordered it from eBay and 2 weeks later he gave me my bike. I have a test ride there and everything seemed to be alright and fixed so I take the bike home give it a wash and I take the rear wheel off to clean it. As I put the rear wheel in and tighten the through axel I notice the brakes where rubbing on the rotor so I push the pistons back and try again, the same thing happens and then I noticed that the actual brake not the pad like the actual brake as a whole was rubbing on the rotor and there’s no way to adjust that and then I loosened the axel and the free hub gave out the worst sound I heard in a bike, it sounded like a bunch of spoons and forks being scraped alongside each other. So I really got pissed and decided to check the cassette and it fucking shakes like it has some damn seizure. Yeah and the original problem is still there but worse. What the fuck did he do to my bike.
Hey Reckless, it sounds like you should take your bike back to the shop and have them look at it again. Mistakes can be made, so just be sure to keep the relationship with you local bike shop civil.
Should Bobcat become the GMBN Tech mascot? Let us know in the comments below 🐱
GMBN Tech yes, finally a mascot 🐱🐱🐱
GMBN Tech yes!
YES!
Hell yes, let's have a cool trail cat!
How is this even a question? Yes, of course.
@11:55 If your rear cassette seems to wobble a bit too much even with all the spacers in place and the lockring is tightened to spec, it’s a blooming good idea to check the tightness of the freehub lock bolt. This gets overlooked often. I’ve had a factory-built wheelset on a brand-new, LBS-assembled-and-checked bike that had accidentally shipped with the freehub bolt loose, so speaking from experience here. :)
Great advice 👍
I've been watching GMBN tech since it started, and GMBN and GCN before that (still watch them all). Doddy has an incredible ability to explain, describe, demonstrate all aspects of bike mechanics. Continue the absolutely first rate job.
Thanks for your support ed! And great to hear it's so well appreciated 💪
Really good use of actual parts to explain concepts - I think this is a great thing to keep running with.
At 16:35, wouldn't it be better to use torque wrench instead of regular, and the blue grease one the bolts?
You rock, Doddy! Awesome charisma, bro.
Bobcat the shop cat?
To the bikepacking guy: I have that BigHonzo - bear in mind that it has no rack bosses and only one bottlecage mount, so you'd have to go light (with bags, not panniers)
also, when inflating a Schrader you have to overcome the tension of the spring with each stroke (tiring when using a small handpump). it's a sprung valve. the presta on the other hand are easier, as the pressure differential alone will be opening it and you'll be way easier to inflate.
That's an interesting fact. But how does it affect a car's tyres?
GMBN Tech since car tyres are mainly around 25-30 psi (up to 80 on HGVs), it's not a problem. And since they are pumped up using air compressors, there was no need for transition to presta or other newer design. So even as tubeless, they kept the Schrader. It's a robust design suitable for that environment
BOBCAT is in D' House!
Awesome video!!!
Keep up the BEST Work!
Fun fact:
GMBN Tech is one of the world's greatest channels ever!
Amen
OMG,hurricane hair..... Funny!!! Doddy is the best!!
I have a Fargo! It’s incredible for backpacking and light trail riding
You gave me an idea! Would it be possible to use hair product in place of friction compound?
B screw - Shimano usually around 6-8mm. Latest SRAM (11/12) usually around 15-18mm. start there and see if the shifting improves. You want to measure the distance between the top of the guide pulley and the largest cassette ring. SRAM do make a handy tool for this.
DeadHead sram 11/12 speed is exactly 15mm...not more or less...and for full sus its set at sag...which is hard but do'able....
Hi Doddy, why rim manufacturers don't start using Shradder valves to MTB bikes? They are cheaper, much less prone to cloging due to the sealant drying and you dont need adapter when calibrating on a fuel station!
Also, Bobcat could become the GMBN Tech mascot, but should help you get that Santa Cruz project up and running sooner! I'd love to see reviews about those third parties components!
Brake pad question: What should I do if my brake pads (or pistons) aren't releasing far enough to allow clear passage for the rotor?
Can we have more of the cat?
Shraders always break on mtb because the base is made of rubber and are more prone to drift under the low pressures mountain bikes run. I snapped and punched holes in shraders all the time on my old bike trying to run low pressure. Presta has a little nut that holds it in place and are less likely to drift since the base can be completely in contact with the rim. When shraders sometimes had a little gap.
if, like me, you came here for the cat, here it is 3:19
Thanks for the suggestions on bike packing rigs Doddy. Funny that I have been also looking at the Kona Big Honzo and my wife has a Rocky Mountain Sherpa.
Love the video Doddy! But you missed my bike that I have for bike packing the Salsa MukLuk! Cheers!
Doddy is the best
can you make your own internally route for your dropper seat post? thanks.
AJ Bikes unless you are a very skilled mechanic with high quality industrial tools, NO dont do that
Florian Käselau Haha. Drilling a hole dosent require a lot of skills or special tools. But drilling a hole in the wrong spot can be bad and even a very skilled mechanic could do that.. then again not too many frames break at the seat tube so I'm pretty sure a metal frame could be modded safely, carbon not so easily.
4:23 Oh god 🤣
Rear shock travel/Rear Wheel travel is not a linear relation, that's what makes different bikes feel different with the same travel.
Great work as always, Thank you!
Shraders clog up with the sealant immediately. I've tried a ghetto tubeless conversion once using Shrader valves and it had to replace clogged valve cores each week.
Really? We've seen Stans NoTubes schrader valves, and just assumed they would work. Interesting! Maybe we should give them a go and see if they work as well as presta.
I haven't seen them before. Nice to know. Maybe they use different cores? Standard Shrader valve cores I've got had a rubber seal while Presta has plasticy looking one which may not cause latex sealant to stick as much as the rubber does.
How much suspension do I need for my hard tail ?
What is the shipping box size of this?
Hello, I have 1 question. How can I save energy in xc race during climbing? Which is better. Stay on saddle or stand up? Thanks
13:25 it could also be faulty or worn out freehub, this is very common issue on cheaper Shimano hubs, for me they are useless, I destroy them fast, for example m475 hubs, I also bent axles after just few trips to the grocery stores. So I upgraded to hope, no play, some of these issues are caused by flawed design,horrible tolerances, you can't service those freehubs without special tool that is almost impossible to get.
But it's not only those hubs that got issue with play, I had issues with Formula hub too, also it had zero grease in bearing, after 90 km it was wobbly.
they both were so wobbly that it caused shifting issues and noisy drivetrain, but my local shop calls this normal, for me its unacceptable.
but it could also be that the freehub is not secured properly, old school freehubs have an Allen bolt usually 10 & 11mm, if it's loose the freehub will wobble, so use Loctite 243/blue and tighten properly and it should be secured for a long time.
All sound advice, thanks for sharing!
Why didn't you make another series for the bike build
When are they showing the winners for the park tool stuff
Do you recommend purchasing a New but, Clearance 2013 DH bike? How many years are parts and components available after production year? 2013 in this case obviously...
Hey Derber's, a 2013 bike is quite out of date in many regards. It could be a great bike still, but the geometry might be very short and fairly steep, compared to some enduro bikes and even trail bikes. If it's a real bargain, then it may be worth it.
GMBN Tech thanks friend!
How can i tell if im able to use a coil on my bike i have a focus jam c pro thanks doddy
I can barely manual my bike at all but it's mostly just because yes, it is super long, but I don't want to put on a higher rise bar. I actually slammed the cockpit as far down as I could because the bike is so huge and the head tube is super long. I've just come to accept that I can't manual this bike.
PERFECT!!
4:23 = The GIF
Another good vid. Cheers.
would it be ok to use assembly compound on like ... an alloy seatpost that keeps moving
colin p Yes...thou it suggests ur post or clamp might not be the right size....if ur post and frame are different materials (e.g. steel frame, alloy post) is essential to use some compound or grease even (if u didnt have movement!) To prevent seizure
I bought my first proper bike about seven months ago,it's a 2017 trek x caliber 8, I'm 15 and am getting a bit more into riding and really enjoying it, would you say it's worth getting a full suspension as well, I've been looking at a Norco fs 1 but am not sure if I should just keep the hardtail and not get a full sus to save a bit of money,what do you think? cheers 👍
Yes he should
Especially as he has similar hair to Doddy😂
#askgmbntech Is it safe to use degreaser on a carbon frame? Assuming that when cleaning other components degreaser also will contact the frame.
Got a question about setting up a 10 speed to 7 speed. I got a atomlab DHR rear hub and it only fits 7 cogs. I took a shimano ultegra 6700 road cassette and removed 3 cogs. My question is shifter set up. I dont like having 3 dead shifts at the bottom, can I modify a my saint shifter to make it 7 speed? Or I have seen block that fits on the cable to limit the shifter cable movement. What is your advice. I have zee derailleur and saint shifter
#askgmbntech Hi guys, love your videos, but I just wanted to know what’s the differencebetween the colour of the stanchions, from silver, to black to kashima. Is there a best option?
Just different coatings, some have a bit less friction than others but colour has literally nothing to do with it
#askgmbntech one of my buddy recently bough a lightly used derailleur, cassette and crankset with a narrow-wide chainring, but the chain is slightly older then those, so when he cranks down hard, it makes a crunching sound, is the chain to blame?
Miku Cavendish probably, i had the same problem so i cleaned and lubed the chain and the sound went away. there’s a chance it could be the bottom bracket tho
Mason G
Hmmm... He did use pretty cheap general purpose oil... And the bottom bracket is greased really well.
My buddy recently developed this grinding and we tried to clean the drivetrain really well with no luck. New chain, no luck. New narrow wide chainring did the trick
I’ve seen badly grooved freehub body splines hold a cassette away from back of body causing cassette to be loose
I've seen a similar problem in the past where an old chain was used with a new casette and chainrings... When putting power down hard (e.g. pedalling up a steep hill) the chain would slip and make a crunching sound like you describe. The cranks would also jerk forward when this happened. A new chain fixed the problem for me.
I'm a simple man - I see cat, I click
There is a bike named Bobcat, it is Marin Bobcat Trail
How would you guys feel about running a 2000 Orange patriot long travel nowadays? Still up to the job do you think? Cheers guys.
#askgmbntech Is it worth it to buy high priced shifter cables and housings or should I just buy standard cables and replace them when needed.
#askgmbntech Hi GMBN, I'm using Shimano SPD mountain bike pedals, and when I'm pedaling the left pedal is making a clicking sound. Is that normal or is there something wrong with my pedals and/or cleats?
If everything is tight, use your hands to put some pressure on the pedals while you backpedal. If you get the click, it’s the bearings in the pedal shaft. Live with it or replace. If you don’t click then, add a bit of grease to the surface where the cleat and the pedal meet (the inside edge) - just a thin film.
Thank you for your suggestion Craig, I didn't get the click when backpedaling (and I applied quite a lot of pressure), so I put a thin film of grease on like you suggested, but I'm still getting the clicking noise. Is there anything else that I could try?
Believe it or not sometimes if your cleats on your shoes are not tighten enough you can get a same click sound...
I see cats and I hit the like button. I would definitely like to see Bobcat become the GMBN Tech mascot. You're a good man looking after a cat for a mate.
That's a good philosophy: see cat=like 👍
4:23 should be edited for younger viewers. thats straight pornography. lol
Colby Bowers that some next level hardcore bike porn
hahahaha
And it's that angle noone really likes to see...
Exactly what I thought! Reverse cowgirl anyone?
#askgmbn
I thinking about upgrading my rotors from 180mm to 203mm. My bikes a 2015 cube stereo 160 with rockshox pike forks. What brake adapters would I need for the bigger rotors?
It depends on your brake calipers but it'll be a 43mm adapter, should be post to post if yours is the same as the picture of the bike I found (most bikes are post to post) and get the one that matches the brand of brake you use
3:00
#askgmbntech Hey! I have a 2012 Scott spark 40 with Reba fork and DT swiss shock. It has a twinloc function, and I do not know if it is OK to use it when I am riding. I am asking because when I am on the bike, and the shock is a bit compressed in due to the weight of my body, after locking it the piston can move backwards a bit and make a knocking sound (the situation is when the shock does not have much weight to be pushed in, so it would normally go back to default position). I really want to know if I can damage the shock or not. Thanks for the help in advance!
#askgmbntech why is the drivetrain always on right hand side of the bike?
#ASKGMBNTECH I currently have deore m6000 gs derailleur and im planning to have an oval front chainring, should I do it since my derailleur have a clutch mechanism
Blank_________ _________ thats fine because it puts even tension on the ring and chain. Your power input is still gonna improve a lot
#askgmbnTECH I got myself new dirt jump bike(mafia blackjack) and i dont know if i should sell my brake and buy suspension fork or stay with brake and non-suspension fork?
#ASKGMBMTECH
Doddy, I'm running Shimano MT500 brakes I run them so I have power at my finger length. For some reason when I'm going downhill they lose the power in the first part and I have to pull them up to the bar to get full power. What could be causing this?
If I'm going up hill or on a flat they are fine and maintain the correct setting for my finger length.
#askgmbn Hello! I was wondering why is the silent Shimano freehub actually silent and does it effect performance in any way ?
#askgmbntech Hey Doddy! love the show. I'm looking for an enduro bike for riding whistler bike park as well as trails around Vancouver (going to university there) I am torn between a Santa Cruz Bronson and nomad. does the 10mm difference in travel make much of a difference? or are they both perfectly capable of handling the trails? also would there be a big difference between a 150mm bike and a 170mm bike?
#askgmbntech Im in the market for new wheelset(for XC only) looking into DT swiss xrc/xmc difference is 25vs30mm and 140g more for XMC, which ones to buy ?
Saw that Nino is sometimes using XMC set.
thanks!
#askgmbn i have a trail bike and want it to feel more like a endro bike is there any upgrades i can do
I just got a repair-stand for my bike, i have a scott genius 720 with a dropper on it, where should i clamp it?
Top tube should be the default place.
Don't be afraid to clamp the post. Just make sure the clamp is clean, or maybe wrap a towel around the stanchion so it doesn't get scratched. Also, if possible, let the clamp head rotate freely so that there is minimal shear stress on both the frame and the post. Most manufacturers hang their demo fleet by the dropper all year long, I wouldn't worry too much about it.
The reason NOT to clap the stanchion of a dropper is the leverage on the internal keys (mechanism) in a plane its not designed to hold against...as well as scratching risk....either loosen the clamp and pull it up enough to clamp.outer tube, or clamp around the top of bike seat tube and the 'nut' between the stanchion and lower if its sunk fully into ur frame....top tube is possible, but again not designed to take a clamping load, espec if its butted (thinner walls in the middle than ends)
TomaCukor nit designed for compression loads, esp if butted tubing...but ur bike, ur risk
Rupert Wenn if the clamp head can freely rotate there a no radial forces applied on the mechanism. The axial load from the weight of the bike is minimal compared to what it is designed to sustain. Those "shop monkeys" have worked on far more dropper posts than you ever will.
#askgmbntech Do you think that with the emergence of e bikes we will see e bikes in the future with air compressors and run flat tires or adjustable shock pressure on the trail??? Cheers
You can get a normal bike that stores compressed air in the frame to inflate tires now... well I say normal, it's a very boutique thing
Steven Chabot yah i saw that looks interesting. In mean so that you could change pressure as you ride and not need to stop. Not sure if possible just a crazy idea
matt smith Like in Dakar races !
#Askgmbntech why does my wrist, elbow and neck hurt every time i ride my bike? Im 5’8 and using a medium nukeproof scout.
#gmbntech What are the differences between normal rotors and Ice Tech rotors? Do they Brake better than the normal ones?
#askgmbntech hey Doddy love the show I have a specialized pitch comp size small and it came with a 80 mm travel fork. The other sizes of my bike come with 100mm I was wondering if I can upgrade to a fork with 120mm travel or if I should just go up to 100mm thanks
Hey Kent, Specialized often offer their small and extra small bikes with shorter travel forks to keep the riding position similar across the range. You could probably go up to 120mm if that's what you're after, but we wouldn't suggest any more than that. It will change the geometry a bit, raising the bottom bracket and lifting the front end.
#askgmbntech I love the tech channel doddy, you’re the right man for the job! I want to ask a technical question about 1x drivetrains.
I’ve heard that that the 1x chainring sits so close to the frame that when you are in your smallest sprocket out back, it throws the chain line off and causes extra friction. Causing a loss in power. What are your thoughts?
#askgmbntech I am upgrading my wheelset to a maxxis dhf and a maxxis shorty. it is recommended I run the the dhf on the rear do you think this will be a nice wheelset and if not what changes should be made
The F in DHF stands for front. You want a DHR for the rear.
The DHF can make a great rear tyre. Generally if you want to run only one shorty, run it up front. But only run a shorty in really muddy and loose conditions. The DHR II can also be run up front (the R does stand for rear, but isn't limited to the rear). If you aren't riding in really gross conditions, maybe run a DHF front and rear.
GMBN Tech thank you the conditions here in Ireland often aren't too bad so I will most likely take on your advice
Hey I really love your videos , it would be soo helpful for me if you can help me . So the problem is my fork is getting loose and if I try to tighten it ,it just keeps moving ....
Abrar Amir If it move up to down it's okey lol
More seriously, were does it move ?
Hi AD...hp valves are hp for the obvious reason actually...to fit road and espec track bike tyres running at up to 160psi...Schrader would be unreliable at best, lethal at worst, at these pressures (and imagine the core blowing out...wud be a lethal bullet!). They are narrow to fit the rims and minimise fatigue risk from a big hole:rim ratio. They are used in mtb purely for this last reason, rim strength. Car tyres are typically only 30 psi and vans about 70psi. Not up to 160 presta (hp)needs to withstand ....nothing to do with high pressure environments sorry😉
But shocks have schrader valves, and rear shocks frequently take over 100psi?
The Schrader site lists up to 550 bar or about 8000 psi. Those may be special but I’ve seen people who make air cannons run standard valves at 1000 psi.
Hello gmbn, my stepdad has got a merlin Excalibur, I've messaged merlin themselves however they had no information for me about the bike, please may you try to find any information, thanks.
#askgnbmtech I ride a custom steel XC bike and I want to put a dropper seatpost on it. The problem is that the seatpost diameter is 25.4 mm, is there any dropper compatible with this diameter? And is there an option without the remote lever? My bike don't have the proper cable routing and I prefer my cockpit without the extra lever/cable. Chers
*seat tube diameter*
Lol 😆 4.22
#askgmbntech
#ASKGMBNTECH
Hey guys, I'm after a new mtb as my fs bike is old, tired, rusty and i fancy going for a hardtail. I was wondering what your opinion is on the Trek Roscoe 8? I ride local trails, bike parks, hitting big mountains, jump parks and doing downhill (nothing seriously steep..), thanks.
#askgmbntech what difference to the ride and feel of the bike when there's less travel in the rear than the front, e.g. commencal clash, rather than same both ends?
kind of what you'd expect, you get a front that will take hits big and small will ease to keep you safe and in control while generally also getting the pedaling efficiency and playfulness that comes with less travel in the rear. I'm not sure the Clash is the best example as it's still a rather long travel bike; I'm on a 150/125 Transition and it's fantastic, the back end is a little stiff for DH and can definitely get a little wild but the geo and longer travel forks mean it'll keep you in control on some serious descents. It's ideal for flow trails too
I have a scott genius 140mm front and 130mm back but that's my first full sus so now I understand. thank you
8:18 😂
#askgmbntech i have a Trek Roscoe 8 with a sram nx 1 by 11 and in the middle range of gears it won't always shift and when it does shift it skips gears. at the lower and upper range of gears it shifts fine how can i fix it
Potentially bent hanger.
#askgmbntech how and when should I service my dropper post to keep it working?
#askgmbntech hi Doddy. I’ve got a 2010 kona Jake the Snake with v-brakes. They are shocking! Is it possible to upgrade them to something that might actually stop me? I’m pretty certain that I cant retrofit disc brakes 😕 the bike is completely stock. Thanks in advance!
I need to get that matt wax for my beard!
#askgmbntech Can you help me choose between either the felt decree 3 or the dartmoor hornet pro just looking at the specs and comparing the quality of them( such as brakes, forks, hubs etc) ? I can get both for a price of about 2000€ and they would both suit my terrain. I am simply not sure about the components on it
The Felt costs a couple grand more than 2000, you're looking at a carbon FS versus an aluminum hardtail with entry level spec
#askgmbntech I doddy is there a good tool kit at a fear price with maybe not all the tools of a PK 3 (even other Brands out of parktool) thanks
I recommend to buy all the tools you need for the jobs you can do now, and buy the best tools you can, instead of buying a kit, tool kits might have tools you don't need and a box you don't need.
there are plenty of choices, for repair stand I recommend PRS 3.2-2
for tools:
Parktool
Unior
Abbey Tools
you can also get some sockets and bits and so on from non cycling brands
some tools are better than others from each brand, so good idea to mix, check out what pro mechanics use.
I got a mix of Teng tools, Abbey tools, Park tools, Pedros, Unior, Racpid Racer Products, I will add more tools in the future, I need a proper ratchet.
I am still researching tools.
kit.com/mtbboy1993/my-tool-reccomendations
This tool box looks great: www.pinkbike.com/news/whats-in-a-world-cup-mechanics-toolbox-2017.html Pelican case with foam inserts www.fastcap.com/product/kaizen-foam
I haven't tried it yet. but looks like a good solution.
Recent mbuk or such review, halfords do similar kit for £40...good tools too
I can't recommend those, it will have tools you might not need, unless you got the bottom bracket the tool is for, and so on, pointless to get tool kits. and it still don't have enough tools to start with.
#askgmbntech What are the benefits of going with a Shimano/Giro/5-10 brand flat pedal shoe? I know some of the soles have good grip and the upper is often weather-proofed, but would I be cheating myself by going with a midtop Vans shoe or something similar rather than an MTB specific shoe?
Thanks for the content and for sharing your wealth of MTB knowledge!
#askgmbntech Hello guys! i finsished my chain lube and in this very moment i can`t get a new one (i have to command one) and my chain started to make funny noises. What can i use as a chain lube for a while?
#AskGMBNTech so I started to notice a weird sound on my freehub. Like it snagged at some point every time it rotated when freewheeling. Opened it up, turns out the freehub body is cracked... On the inside. How the f*ck does that even happen?!?!
#askgmbntech i've got two questions actually.
First: I've saw by several people (including my self) that the front brakes of shimano (XT, Deore and Saint i've seen so far) dont get to the pressure point that early as the back break. in case of my own bike i even dont get the braking force high enough with one finger to lock up the front wheel when rolling in walking pace. I've bleeded my breaks several times. always the same issue. what could it be?
Second: How do ingeneers in bike companies design the suspension linkages? especially in regards of whether it behaves progressive or linear. its way to expensive to change suspension systems if you've got to design the whole thing with chains etc to simulate it. so where do they take the shortcuts? in general i would love to see a bit more of the way the ingeneers work in those companies. so maybe a video series about this would be very interesting.
Thx, and keep on the good work!
Philip Wächter It might be worn brake pads or a tiny leak?
I think the brake issue might be down to feel and grip. I can lock my rear wheel easily with a br-m485 with 160mm rotors and I have issues with locking the front with a deore paired with a 180mm rotor. Not a good idea to lock the front wheel anyway. When it comes to suspension design, they use computer software to simulate the linkage.
Try a different brake pad composition. Semi-metallic or organic.
Hey Philip, take a look at cleaning your brakes if you haven't already: gmbn.eu/cleandiscs
Other than that, it might be that your brake pads and discs are worn down to the point that they need replacing.
Engineers will do this via computer design. There’s software out there that you can explore too. www.bikechecker.com
#askgmbntech are slime inner tubes any good I can't convert to tubeless as it means changing tyres and rims which I can't afford right now but I want the benefits
Dylan M slime is just closing punktures like sealant but you won’t get the better rollingresistance of tubeless
WikkiDoddia of mountain biking
#askgmbntech Hi Doddy, Im looking into buying a mid travel full suspension bike for around 2000€(2500$). Do you have any recommendations on what bike it should be, or maybe should I build my own bike? Loving the vids, keep up the good work!
Check out Canyon, YT and Radon for online options and good value for money. Otherwise, Giant, Trek or Specialized for the bike brand peace of mind. The Giant Trance and Specialized Stumpjumper come to mind.
#askgmbntech Hi Doddy! Big fan of the show! Really love it. I really like the sound of the black rubbery mastic tape. Would be awesome to make some chainstay protector off it. I have been trying to find it but without any luck. I live in Sweden and I am wondering if you know any sites that are shipping to Europe (Sweden)? Keep up the great work! Best regards Mikael
Doddy fight Logan Paul. Who's with me? It is doable!
what would i have to do to change my bike from a 26 in wheel to a 27.5 if i had the room in my chainstay and or would it work #askgmbn
Bob!
#askgmbntech Hey Doddy! I would like yo upgrade to fork on my bike, but my bike has a 1.5" head tube and i cant find any good forks. So i was thinking of gettin a adapter for my head tube. Could you reccomend any good headtube adapters? Cheers!
Btw dont try to pronounce my username
Hey! So, it sounds like your bike has a 50mm (external) diameter headtube (44mm internal). You could fit a fork with a straight steerer, or one with a tapered steerer, but you would need to get the right headset. The bottom cup needs to be an external cup, so the code you're looking for is EC44 (external cup 44). The top would be ZS44. Cane Creek, Hope and Nukeproof all do headsets that will fit. They usually sell the top and bottom cup separately to fit a wide range of headtubes.
GMBN Tech Thanks!
I gave my bike to this mechanic so he could replace the free hub body as I didn’t have the tools, he ordered it from eBay and 2 weeks later he gave me my bike. I have a test ride there and everything seemed to be alright and fixed so I take the bike home give it a wash and I take the rear wheel off to clean it. As I put the rear wheel in and tighten the through axel I notice the brakes where rubbing on the rotor so I push the pistons back and try again, the same thing happens and then I noticed that the actual brake not the pad like the actual brake as a whole was rubbing on the rotor and there’s no way to adjust that and then I loosened the axel and the free hub gave out the worst sound I heard in a bike, it sounded like a bunch of spoons and forks being scraped alongside each other. So I really got pissed and decided to check the cassette and it fucking shakes like it has some damn seizure. Yeah and the original problem is still there but worse. What the fuck did he do to my bike.
Hey Reckless, it sounds like you should take your bike back to the shop and have them look at it again. Mistakes can be made, so just be sure to keep the relationship with you local bike shop civil.
Hello gmbn tech
Can i change my 8 speed cassette for an 11 speed cassette
Thanks in advance!
Florian Käselau ok thanks mate
does your hub supports 11 speed cassettes, that is whatt you have to look for
Plamen Gatev how do i find that out
Check the model of your hub and search in google. It should be written on sites that sells the same hubs