I've got two of these Reliant models, as well as two Enterprise kits - one which I'll leave pristine, and the other to showcase battle damage, respectively. ALTHOUGH: I'm gonna use a Dremel to tear holes in the damaged areas of both models. Then I'll use pieces of the sprue to build up the insides of the damaged areas. And finally, I'll lay the scorched decals over those damaged areas. BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE: There's still the question of what to do with the port nacelle, which is supposed to have been sheared from the supporting pylon. SO... I'm thinking that I might sacrifice that nacelle for the sake of accuracy, leaving the amputated strut broken and bare. All that should be a lot fun!
I just ran into this video because my mid-life crisis is taking the form of getting back into modeling and acquiring all of the old Star Trek kits I used to work on when I was a kid in the 90s. I've also started buying the new stuff, like this kit. I bought this kit and plan on painting it with Insignia White instead of regular white. I know the instructions probably say white, but Federation starships of this era seem to be more of a gray/white (vs. the darker gray of the TNG forward era). The Insignia white is the closest I could find, next to the Light Gull Gray color. Thank you for this video!
First time I've ever heard the pre-stage flux chillers port and starboard referred to as "accent pieces". Thanks for the chuckle! Nice job on the model!
ATTN: Polar Lights/Round 2: I would love to see in this scale kits of the Starship Enterprise C, D, E, and F, with ParaGrafix photo-etched metal detail sets included (ideally, nickel- silver.
I've got this one and it's companion refit waiting for some time to tackle. Thank you for the preview. Had not planned on doing the battle damage, but I think I changed my mind. Those decals are surprisingly realistic even in your closeups.
Decals will do better with a good glossy clear coat to lay them down on - much less silvering/bubbles, then I'll seal them in with a matte or satin coat clear coat.
Great looking build I just wish someone would do a Sisko's Saratoga conversion for this kit, it's been out for years and would be such an easy kit to make and still no one has. The Reliant decal you have left looks like it's the one that go's under the impulse engine.
@@SeansModelBuilds2017 Yeah I already have my Reliant built up as the Saratoga NCC-1887 from ST 4 but Sisko's Saratoga is different, no roll bar and added on side parts that no one has made yet.
It makes sense they put their name everywhere. With regular ships you have the name frontsides and back. there is no other direction you can approach the ship from. so you can always see the name. In space even though they always meet perfectly aligned, you can come from every angel. So to get the ships name, it makes sense to be shown everywhere.
I was just curious if the Aztec decals were numbered wrong for you? I am trying to put these on and am confused and don't know where to find updated instructions for the decal placements. I am not an experienced with building models but am trying. I find building these are really relaxing. Thanks for your videos as I am learning a lot.
I'm working on this model, but having a difficult time getting it put together. Is this model just a difficult model to put together? I'm having to use glue, even though it is a snap together.
I noticed you painted your basecoat white directly onto the white plastic without using a primer? Also you didn’t seal with a gloss clear coat prior to applying the decals? Neat trick on the warp chillers sanding off with tge black backing. I’ll have to give that a try.
Why do you need to put a base coat on all parts? Why not just leave as is to put on decals and then spray with a gloss coat sealer or varnish? Saw that you also painted a base coat on Enterprise build.
TREKKIE MIKE it’s a custom color I mixed a long time ago, I think I mixed it for an x-wing I think it’s sky blue mixed with white and haze grey, heavy on the white
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I've got two of these Reliant models, as well as two Enterprise kits - one which I'll leave pristine, and the other to showcase battle damage, respectively.
ALTHOUGH:
I'm gonna use a Dremel to tear holes in the damaged areas of both models. Then I'll use pieces of the sprue to build up the insides of the damaged areas. And finally, I'll lay the scorched decals over those damaged areas.
BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE:
There's still the question of what to do with the port nacelle, which is supposed to have been sheared from the supporting pylon.
SO...
I'm thinking that I might sacrifice that nacelle for the sake of accuracy, leaving the amputated strut broken and bare.
All that should be a lot fun!
I just ran into this video because my mid-life crisis is taking the form of getting back into modeling and acquiring all of the old Star Trek kits I used to work on when I was a kid in the 90s. I've also started buying the new stuff, like this kit.
I bought this kit and plan on painting it with Insignia White instead of regular white. I know the instructions probably say white, but Federation starships of this era seem to be more of a gray/white (vs. the darker gray of the TNG forward era). The Insignia white is the closest I could find, next to the Light Gull Gray color. Thank you for this video!
I see all of those clear parts and I start thinking about lighting the kit. I know it's a sickness. I'm taking medication for it.
HARDLY a sickness - it's perfectionism!!!
Excellent model. First time I've seen it with the battle damage added and it looks great.
Looks great. Nice work Brother..👍
First time I've ever heard the pre-stage flux chillers port and starboard referred to as "accent pieces". Thanks for the chuckle! Nice job on the model!
Would you recommend the Aztec labels if you are doing a lighting kit? And would you use any different paints on the parts that light up?
Love the approach and planning here- the nacelles sanding technique is really genius. Will be starting this kit soon- thank you for sharing!
How can one apply the gold- copper paint to the raised ribs of the warp nacelle transparencies?
ATTN: Polar Lights/Round 2: I would love to see in this scale kits of the Starship Enterprise C, D, E, and F, with ParaGrafix photo-etched metal detail sets included (ideally, nickel- silver.
Decal #26 ( ships name ) should go the top saucer in the back. So as you land a shuttle craft you can read the ships name from landing bay 1 or 2 .
Been waiting for this kit in what seems like forever. Good to see it is finally coming out. It looks great.
23:20 decal 25 goes behind the bridge dome, 50 are the RCS thrusters on the horizontal fins for the nacelles. That’s all I know.
I've got this one and it's companion refit waiting for some time to tackle. Thank you for the preview. Had not planned on doing the battle damage, but I think I changed my mind. Those decals are surprisingly realistic even in your closeups.
Great model great work great video thank you.
"we are doing the Back in Black"
I ACDC what you accidently did there^^
Beautiful build
Decals will do better with a good glossy clear coat to lay them down on - much less silvering/bubbles, then I'll seal them in with a matte or satin coat clear coat.
Why paint at all? The plastic should stick good.
That turned out really great!
Great looking build I just wish someone would do a Sisko's Saratoga conversion for this kit, it's been out for years and would be such an easy kit to make and still no one has. The Reliant decal you have left looks like it's the one that go's under the impulse engine.
@@SeansModelBuilds2017 Yeah I already have my Reliant built up as the Saratoga NCC-1887 from ST 4 but Sisko's Saratoga is different, no roll bar and added on side parts that no one has made yet.
I don’t light my kits but I use a solid colour inside the clear and a clear paint on the outside
That turned out very nice indeed, makes me want to go out and buy one
It makes sense they put their name everywhere. With regular ships you have the name frontsides and back. there is no other direction you can approach the ship from. so you can always see the name. In space even though they always meet perfectly aligned, you can come from every angel. So to get the ships name, it makes sense to be shown everywhere.
admiral....admiral.....admiral....
The modern looks awesome👍👌🍺🍺🍻🇿🇦😎
Aztecing decals right out of the box?
I really should have looked for this kit long ago,
looks great.
I really don't get the damage decals, only a handful of them are shown on the instructions, no clue where the rest is supposed to go.
So the Aztec decals are in the Enterprise refit model kit?
I was just curious if the Aztec decals were numbered wrong for you? I am trying to put these on and am confused and don't know where to find updated instructions for the decal placements. I am not an experienced with building models but am trying. I find building these are really relaxing. Thanks for your videos as I am learning a lot.
I would like to make both the Reliant and Lantree (TNG).
Is air brush painting really as easy as you make it look in your video? How much time do you spend cleaning it between colors?
I'm working on this model, but having a difficult time getting it put together. Is this model just a difficult model to put together? I'm having to use glue, even though it is a snap together.
What colour blue did you use on this?
I noticed you painted your basecoat white directly onto the white plastic without using a primer? Also you didn’t seal with a gloss clear coat prior to applying the decals? Neat trick on the warp chillers sanding off with tge black backing. I’ll have to give that a try.
Why paint a base coat? Why not just leave as is and put on decals? Then spray with a gloss coat sealer? Saw this on Enterprise build too
@@benwebb5476 because that looks very “toyish” and also very amateur but if you want to build your model like that hey knock yourself out.
I was just wondering if there's a reason for the base coat. If the decals stick better. Or if it's just an extra step to take.
For the warp intake you should have painted it white 1st
Anyone else thinking of using those battle damage decals to model a Borg encounter?
Why do you need to put a base coat on all parts? Why not just leave as is to put on decals and then spray with a gloss coat sealer or varnish? Saw that you also painted a base coat on Enterprise build.
So this doesn’t come with the decals?
It comes with the normal decals shown in the video but the Aztec decals are sold seperatly
what airbrush are you using?
what color of greenist blue are you using on the fin parts
TREKKIE MIKE it’s a custom color I mixed a long time ago, I think I mixed it for an x-wing I think it’s sky blue mixed with white and haze grey, heavy on the white
It calls for a duck egg blue. I mixed a little of green and blue and alot of white.
Relaint?
Very overpriced for kit and aztec decals but nice results though 🖖
THAT IS NOT MED. BLUE.