Very good to see someone else experimenting with all this. Pretty much anything that grows will burn if it is compressed into briquettes, then an efficient method of burning is needed to get the most from the fuel (wood or briquettes). Plenty more heat and much cleaner emissions available from secondary and tertiary burns. This kind of fairly simple technology can do a lot for the planet and us
you say thanks for watching ,you need thanking for a great video ,i can,t wait to try and copy your design, and learn more about how these stoves work, great job
According to "Designing Improved Wood Burning Heating Stoves", exhaust and intake dampers reduce efficiency. Best to have all the air the riser can handle and regulate the stove with the fuel. That being said it seems a balance needs to be achieved between primary, secondary, and tertiary sources. Can too much of one detract from the others?
Almost certain your comment is right. Some times I notice that when combustion is going well, if I close the dumper it may originate a bit of smoke, meaning incomplete combustion. If regulated properly I am sure all primary, secondary, tertiary will contribute for the combustion.
Can you please tell me if this item can be made of stainless steel ???? Also, how did you figure out the dimensions for the stove??? One last thing Sir, how much heat did you from this rocket stove compared to the other stove shown and how much more wood was used or reduced Sir ??? Thanks
Thank you for your questions. I have never worked with stainless steel for stoves, so, I do not know if you can make a stainless steel stove. You try and show us the results. I built this stove based on materials I had available. There is a relation between chimney diameter/door, or between stove volume and air supply. But the combustion chamber was just a piece of square tubing I had laying around and I used it. Almost all wood stoves produce the same amount of heat and reach the same temperature but I noticed a huge reduction on wood consumption. I used 9 cubic metre wood on my first wood stove without secondary combustion and with this stove I used 4 cubic metre...
I can tell you that reduction in wood about 55 to 60 percent is super to say the least. Would you know the difference between six inch diameter round flow compared to 12 X 12 square flue pipe ??? Thanks
@@victoryfirst2878 No, I do not know if that size square pipe can work as a chimney for a common domestic stove. I know that if the flue is too big in section area, there is no draw.
@@victoryfirst2878 A 12" square flue will flow approximately same as a 12" round flue. But the volume of 12" square flue is 5 times greater than a 6" round pipe. Normally stove flue is either 6" or 8".
@@mozit6 What happened to the 7 inch flue pipe ??? I seen an old stove at an auction and it used seven inch pipe. Use to be 6, 7, 8 inch. pipes were common......
Excellent! Thank you for the detailed explanation, this is very helpful for people like myself who have just stumbled across rocket stoves. A question about the secondary air supply: it is not regulated except for the size and number of holes you drilled in the square tubes, right? Also, have you tested to see how the flame vortex changes if you repeatedly close and open the tertiary air pipe inlet? Cheers, mate! Iksr
Iksr Alquyuud You're right, I do not regulate secondary air entrance in this stove. I made a total of 6 wood stoves with secondary combustion, three of them with secondary air controls that I hardly touch and stay open all the time. So this time I made no secondary air controls. I did not check how the vortex, or the flame, changes when I close the tertiary air inlet. I think that empirically you will notice nothing by closing tertiary air entrance. Like I said before, I would need some equipment to measure benefits of small changes in the stove, like introducing tertiary combustion...
I'm wondering if introducing fresh air in different areas of the primary and secondary burn process would either lend itself to making a smaller rocket stove possible or if it makes the process less efficient by slowing down the violent vortex of super heated air that leads to the gasification/secondary burn. aside from that you make a very impressive stove and a good vid to show off your handiwork
+Razo Garzon Thank you very much for your comment. If I understood correctly, you want to make a smaller rocket stove without pre-heating air and still get an efficient combustion, right? Yes you can do it, that is the way I started making my stove experimentation, but you will get less heat output. Take a look at the channel by Chaillot Barnabé he made two videos that demonstrate well the advantage of using pre-heated air. There are other ways (I did not use yet) to boost rocket stove efficiency like combustion chamber and/or riser tube insulation. Take a look at ppotty1 videos of his rocket stoves, he uses pre-heated air and insulation in his stoves with fantastic results. Finally, if you want a smaller more compact stove, take a look at T2H instructionals he has very nice ideas on the issue and after all he started with the ideas for a smaller rocket stove heater.
i am wondering if over a short period of time say ~10min with your air control and flue flapper can you put out your fire (that would be a good reason to have control of secondary (and 3rd) air flow it is something i can do with my old style wood stove or at least make it just smoldering in ~10-15 min and usually put it out I love your design how is it holding up to the temperature your are producing thank you thegreatfixer
I do not have an answer to your question because I never tried it, but I would recommend against it if your stove does not close air gaps and air entrances tightly. The reason is stove backfire/backsmoking when you have high temperatures, a lot of inflammable gases and little oxygen. In this case if fresh oxygen enters the stove from somewhere, you may get an instant combustion, similar to a small explosion, that produces a lot of smoke and can even break stove glass! The first stoves I built were not well dimensioned and this used to happen.
+caotropheus Hello, good spring-wintered. Idea : make an Accelerator: Under the vortex in place of the 3rd air entry, soft copper tube, bent in Spyrale, symmetric slits, inside, oriented as Vortex (And the split portion raised with forceps, as a fin) I struggle to describe it, sorry. Maybe make several tubes 10mm, for example, interlocking into each other, for nX10mm in diameter. It would also make a 'spark' output Vortex, center, a little above, with a motor engine spark plug (ceramic...), or tip iron, that concentrates the heat (or 4th tube and air intake? ..) .. See the vortex cooling, to cool style CNC tools myemail.constantcontact.com/CNC-Cabinet-Cooling.html?soid=1102797715527&aid=LCjFSTocuUU
If you are asking about the temperature of chimney nearby the stove, I do not know. The laser thermometer shows numbers between 60 C and 80 C but I think it is higher. The laser thermometer is "El cheapo" model calibrated for ordinary steel and needs calibration for stainless steel. Never did this calibration.
Very, VERY good stove. Tertiary VERY GOOD. You use what you have and made something Great. We need more builders like you. Fist up, Fight for Truth.
Very good to see someone else experimenting with all this. Pretty much anything that grows will burn if it is compressed into briquettes, then an efficient method of burning is needed to get the most from the fuel (wood or briquettes). Plenty more heat and much cleaner emissions available from secondary and tertiary burns. This kind of fairly simple technology can do a lot for the planet and us
its so beautiful thank you for taking the time to do this! i learned alot! secondary tertiary AND vortex! its really pretty!!!
you say thanks for watching ,you need thanking for a great video ,i can,t wait to try and copy your design, and learn more about how these stoves work, great job
Great Job! I will try to build a similar stove this summer! Thanks for posting this video!
thank you from Georgia, very nice stove! 🙂👍👍👍
You are a very clever man and I appreciate very much you sharing your knowledge...I will be trying to duplicate this build myself, thankyou !
Congratulation my friend!
Thanks a lot!
This was educational. I've been trying to get a door like yours. Thank you for the tips
Nice, really helps with inspiration. Cheers.
For you do not burn the hand with the handle of the door,
just do a spring in thick wire,
that you thread, or rolling on the handle.
Very cool!!!
YOU ARE A GENIUS!
Very nice stove, and presentation.
Good job look like it working great
According to "Designing Improved Wood Burning Heating Stoves", exhaust and intake dampers reduce efficiency. Best to have all the air the riser can handle and regulate the stove with the fuel. That being said it seems a balance needs to be achieved between primary, secondary, and tertiary sources. Can too much of one detract from the others?
Almost certain your comment is right. Some times I notice that when combustion is going well, if I close the dumper it may originate a bit of smoke, meaning incomplete combustion. If regulated properly I am sure all primary, secondary, tertiary will contribute for the combustion.
Can you please tell me if this item can be made of stainless steel ???? Also, how did you figure out the dimensions for the stove??? One last thing Sir, how much heat did you from this rocket stove compared to the other stove shown and how much more wood was used or reduced Sir ??? Thanks
Thank you for your questions. I have never worked with stainless steel for stoves, so, I do not know if you can make a stainless steel stove. You try and show us the results. I built this stove based on materials I had available. There is a relation between chimney diameter/door, or between stove volume and air supply. But the combustion chamber was just a piece of square tubing I had laying around and I used it. Almost all wood stoves produce the same amount of heat and reach the same temperature but I noticed a huge reduction on wood consumption. I used 9 cubic metre wood on my first wood stove without secondary combustion and with this stove I used 4 cubic metre...
I can tell you that reduction in wood about 55 to 60 percent is super to say the least. Would you know the difference between six inch diameter round flow compared to 12 X 12 square flue pipe ??? Thanks
@@victoryfirst2878 No, I do not know if that size square pipe can work as a chimney for a common domestic stove. I know that if the flue is too big in section area, there is no draw.
@@victoryfirst2878 A 12" square flue will flow approximately same as a 12" round flue. But the volume of 12" square flue is 5 times greater than a 6" round pipe. Normally stove flue is either 6" or 8".
@@mozit6 What happened to the 7 inch flue pipe ??? I seen an old stove at an auction and it used seven inch pipe. Use to be 6, 7, 8 inch. pipes were common......
Very nice stove ! But i think that an insulation around the riser tube will make it exellent !!!
Excellent! Thank you for the detailed explanation, this is very helpful for people like myself who have just stumbled across rocket stoves. A question about the secondary air supply: it is not regulated except for the size and number of holes you drilled in the square tubes, right? Also, have you tested to see how the flame vortex changes if you repeatedly close and open the tertiary air pipe inlet?
Cheers, mate!
Iksr
Iksr Alquyuud You're right, I do not regulate secondary air entrance in this stove. I made a total of 6 wood stoves with secondary combustion, three of them with secondary air controls that I hardly touch and stay open all the time. So this time I made no secondary air controls. I did not check how the vortex, or the flame, changes when I close the tertiary air inlet. I think that empirically you will notice nothing by closing tertiary air entrance. Like I said before, I would need some equipment to measure benefits of small changes in the stove, like introducing tertiary combustion...
I'm wondering if introducing fresh air in different areas of the primary and secondary burn process would either lend itself to making a smaller rocket stove possible or if it makes the process less efficient by slowing down the violent vortex of super heated air that leads to the gasification/secondary burn. aside from that you make a very impressive stove and a good vid to show off your handiwork
+Razo Garzon Thank you very much for your comment. If I understood correctly, you want to make a smaller rocket stove without pre-heating air and still get an efficient combustion, right? Yes you can do it, that is the way I started making my stove experimentation, but you will get less heat output. Take a look at the channel by Chaillot Barnabé he made two videos that demonstrate well the advantage of using pre-heated air. There are other ways (I did not use yet) to boost rocket stove efficiency like combustion chamber and/or riser tube insulation. Take a look at ppotty1 videos of his rocket stoves, he uses pre-heated air and insulation in his stoves with fantastic results. Finally, if you want a smaller more compact stove, take a look at T2H instructionals he has very nice ideas on the issue and after all he started with the ideas for a smaller rocket stove heater.
i am wondering if over a short period of time say ~10min with your air control and flue flapper can you put out your fire (that would be a good reason to have control of secondary (and 3rd) air flow
it is something i can do with my old style wood stove or at least make it just smoldering in ~10-15 min and usually put it out
I love your design how is it holding up to the temperature your are producing
thank you
thegreatfixer
I do not have an answer to your question because I never tried it, but I would recommend against it if your stove does not close air gaps and air entrances tightly. The reason is stove backfire/backsmoking when you have high temperatures, a lot of inflammable gases and little oxygen. In this case if fresh oxygen enters the stove from somewhere, you may get an instant combustion, similar to a small explosion, that produces a lot of smoke and can even break stove glass! The first stoves I built were not well dimensioned and this used to happen.
Very good stove with some nice features how about a boiler in top of fire or riser?
I did not consider it, but I suppose it is feasible.
very good.
.3rd efficiency air:
pass a lighter flame at the entrance
it must be a little sucked.
good job.
Je l'ai fait et cela a fonctionné parfaitement. Merci beaucoup
+caotropheus
Hello, good spring-wintered.
Idea :
make an Accelerator:
Under the vortex in place of the 3rd air entry,
soft copper tube,
bent in Spyrale,
symmetric slits, inside, oriented as Vortex
(And the split portion raised with forceps, as a fin)
I struggle to describe it,
sorry.
Maybe make several tubes 10mm, for example, interlocking into each other,
for nX10mm in diameter.
It would also make a 'spark' output Vortex, center, a little above,
with a motor engine spark plug (ceramic...), or tip iron,
that concentrates the heat
(or 4th tube and air intake? ..) ..
See the vortex cooling,
to cool style CNC tools
myemail.constantcontact.com/CNC-Cabinet-Cooling.html?soid=1102797715527&aid=LCjFSTocuUU
Maybe a longer (higher) tertairy air pipe?
Silver pipe, how hot is it when BIG FIRE BURNING?
If you are asking about the temperature of chimney nearby the stove, I do not know. The laser thermometer shows numbers between 60 C and 80 C but I think it is higher. The laser thermometer is "El cheapo" model calibrated for ordinary steel and needs calibration for stainless steel. Never did this calibration.
caotropheus so that is 140to 176 degrees Fahrenheit. What does your video show “”C”” OR “,F”?
@@smartassist9700 All mesurements I do are metric, so temperature I refer is Celsius or Centigrade
Great ------- thank-you !