Tip for silk clothing, which I wear the most and have a lot of experience with: silk frays easily, so every seam should be a French seam, not just an overlock stitch. For knits, look for “fully-fashioned” seams, that is knitted together, not just cut and sewn ones, which quickly develop holes.
Agree x10000000 on the overlocked seams for silk blouses. Other than Lilysilk and Boden in the UK I'm leery of buying silk online. Unless I can check it out in person and make sure the seams are done right I"m not touching it. I can't believe how many brands try to flog poorly constructed silk garments (indeed poorly constructed everything).
I’ve been lucky enough to see my mother’s old clothes, mainly from the 40s & 50s. It is mind boggling how well they were made. They made the body look better as well!
Mariana, you look so elegant and fabulous in this video! I am so mindful and careful these days when purchasing a new item- whether it is a piece of clothing, shoes, or a handbag. Since I'm almost 50 years old, I remember those nice stores 20-30 years ago when clothes in general were made of a much better quality. I'm talking about late 1990s, early 2000. Not long time ago, I threw some of my old T-shirts from Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger that I purchased in the outlet years ago. They were so well made and the material was twice thicker compared to today's same style T-shirts you find in the outlet. Most of the today's clothes in any given store look so flimsy and poorly constructed. When I was a kid, we would spend the whole morning on getting ready to go to church and ironing our clothes, because you had to look so nice when you were in the church. We were not rich, but the clothes my parents had like coats, shoes, hats somehow were so well made that they lasted for years. I kind of miss those times when people actually dressed up to go out anywhere. Plus, there was a great attention paid to personal care- nails, delicate make up, hair, the right jewelry.
Everything you said is a priceless tip. From personal experience- expensive is no guard of anything. We have a few stores that have kind of a stigma here in the US - but I have purchased some really good clothing really cheap that has lasted way more than expected.
I totally agree, Coco! I too have affordable pieces that have lasted me for years and years, and are some of my favorites in my wardrobe - and usually get a lot of compliments as well 😌
My grandmother was a seamstress from Sicily where she learned to sew lace for wedding gowns. At an early age she took me shopping not to buy but to examine the difference between quality and sloppy stitching of garments. It’s almost impossible to find quality in fast fashion.
Here is a tip about scarves you may already know: all Hermès scarves are finished by hand-rolling the edges and they are then hand-sewn. I really like your scarf 🧣.
I'm trying to educate myself on fashion and quality after a long life of turning a blind eye to it all and convincing myself I didn't need to learn. This was the first video I've watched and I've learned so much!! Super informative and your sense of humor is a great finishing touch. Thanks for making this =)
I just looked at the hem of my shorts and sure enough it’s the cheap/tacky seam you mentioned when the factory cuts corners. I do love a beautiful French seam. ❤
Very true. I bought the Staud Waldo full below-the-knee leather boot. The silhouette of the boot and the shape of the heel are beautiful. However, when I ordered online, I never noticed the seam that runs all the way down the center to the toe. It’s just not as elegant with a seam down the front. I also didn’t realize the boots have no zipper and I can barely pull them on or off. The boots, while not inexpensive, were cheaper than many look alikes. So, I now know why.
It’s so tricky! The convenience of online shopping goes completely out the window when a low-quality piece arrives and you have to deal with the disappointment AND the return process 😕
Ah that's a tricky one. Where I live there's nothing but junky low-end mall fashion available to me - polyester palace after polyester palace. I'm finding I have to shop the world online to find pieces that I'm willing to invest in - if I can't find what I'm after in a local consignment/vintage/thrift shop.
Natural fibers* and materials (like genuine cattle leather) are non-negotiables for me. I just can’t tolerate synthetics, which are just plastics, next to my skin and I overheat in them in under a minute, because they just can’t breathe, which builds up heat, not just sweat, next to the skin. I see so many clothes I love, but just can’t wear, so I just skip over anything in synthetics. The only exception is outerwear, I will wear a nylon, etc. trench coat or rain jacket, so long as it doesn’t touch my skin. Still, it’s a minute off, a minute on, so annoying. There is no such thing as “high-quality”, “luxury”, “technical” or “breathable” synthetics, anyway. Clothes made of these cheap fabrics have no intrinsic value, so no one will want to wear them if they don’t work out for me. I hate Spandex, too. *Cotton, linen, wool/cashmere and silk. But, I can also wear better-quality rayon/lyocell fabrics, too, they’re even more breathable than silk and are not plastics made from petroleum, but are made from plant fibers, usually sawdust. But, the quality of rayon/viscose varies tremendously. Choose the thicker versions, Lenzing brand Tencel is the best and most eco-clean; fast-fashion viscose can be pretty bad quality and is manufactured using a dangerous cyanide process. Acetates/triacetates are made similarly to rayons, but unfortunately, don’t breathe at all, nor perform very well. Rayon makes a very decent breathable lining for clothing, if not as luxurious as silk. I don’t buy clothes with polyester linings, either, why wear a plastic underlayer?
I agree with everything you say here Kimberly. I'm also annoyed by the very inconsistent quality of rayons - some are not colour fast and warp if they get wet. I don't fancy wearing or breathing dry cleaning solution so if I can't reliably hand-wash it (or machine wash it) then I don't buy it - other than winter coats & suiting. Even that stuff though I'll steam many many times before dry cleaning. A Brooks Brothers employee told me that - steam suiting 10 - 20 times before taking it to the dry cleaner - e.g., try to limit to no more than once a year in order to increase the suit/coat longevity.
Great video! I would love more videos on this subject, and if you could show examples from your wardrobe of high quality items, that would be a bonus. My oldest wool jumper is still going strong after i bought it in 1997, and it gets worn every winter. It's a black rollneck that skims the thighs and i still get compliments on it. It's so old the label says Hennes & Mauritz, rather than H&M! Which goes to show you can find quality in most shops.
"Sweat more than a sinner in Church"... I know exactly what you mean :) I cannot stand polyester for the same reason, and I do feel like that sometimes in Church too, even wearing linen :)
I wouldn't expect any quality from Zara. Zara doesn't pay a living wage to their workers. Good video. I buy from the stores and brands that are known for their quality. Talbots, Eileen Fisher. I would rather have 1 beautiful piece than 6 that are falling apart when new.
Scrunch up a piece of the fabric in your hand, let go, and see whether it creases or not. If it creases, don't buy it. The creasing will be a problem whether you iron/steam it or not. Obviously, this does not apply to linen, and I would also say that this does not apply to oxford shirts and anything similar, but it is especially useful for garments like trousers, blazers, dresses, some blouses/shirts, and trench coats/coats that you want to look as crease free and smart as possible. Unless they're made of linen, creased garments are not chic, nor do they look like they are high quality.
I’m currently wearing my husband’s wool coat that he bought 35 years ago. It’s 100% wool with shiny cotton lining and leather covered buttons. He payed $300 for this coat and the quality is top line. I don’t think I would be even able to find garment like that in the store this days. I always look for blend of wool or 100% cotton in sweaters. The older you get the more important is to have good quality fabric close to your face. Cheep material makes the lack of colour and wrinkles in your face look way worse! Good composition in fabric gives the material specific texture and extra glow and it’s very complementary for any skin tone. Less but better quality is the only way to go.
Thanks so much for this - I really appreciate all the work you went to, to film real-world examples of the red flags! Sometimes it's hard to visualize what is meant by "poor seams." You made it super clear and I feel much better prepared to just say no to junk!
Hi Mariana! I prefer shopping in person for these reasons!! How does one know what they are going to end up with when shopping online?! I have to see, feel and try on each piece. I think it's a hassle to have to send items back too. Just my 2 cents!! Have a great week!! xx
Thanks for bringing attention to good quality construction. You could go an entire series on this. I came from a family of women who sewed. My grandmother, a classically trained seamstress told me that a garment should be as beautiful on the inside as the outside. She taught me to iron each seam open, bind each seam edge, then tack them down. Patterns had to match at the seams. Garments were fitted to the wearer during construction and hems were measured and pinned with a hem stick. Fast fashion and easy acquisition of clothing has made this attention to detail a nearly lost art.
Hi Mariana! Last year I visited the Karl Lagerfeld exposition at MET in NYC and I could spot the quality of those iconic dresses even from 2 meters away, but when I looked closely everysingle detail was so perfectly made and sooo pleaseant to the eye. Since then every shooping trip to the fast fashion stores hasn't been the same. Love your videos ❤
Always go for linen or cotton in summer. They need a bit more upkeep than synthetics, as they wrinkle like crazy, but they will prevent you from looking like a sweaty mess within 30 minutes. Even 30€ linen shirt from H&M (if the seams are even) is better than a polyester one for 300€ from a "better" brand. For wool trousers, make sure that they are lined (at least partially lined), especially if you react to wool/cashmere. Movement against your skin when walking can make even the best wool fabric irritating when it's not properly lined.
Well done I bought a dress five years ago from an upmarket shop well it was the worst dress I ever purchased. It was very expensive and looked charming but I have never worn it since the wedding .the pattern does not match at the sides there is little or no spare material at the seams etc etc but the reputation the expert sales lady a d the price convinced me it was The Dress.Boy oh boy have I learned my lesson.Wonderful video please do another one if possible. Thank you love love your channel.
Watch out for the description "Each piece is unique." It means that the printed pattern or woven plaid or even the relief structure of the material played no role at all in designing the item. Instead, someone came up with a shape and then they had to cut as many products as possible out of the available fabric. It's also good to use your nose. Learn to discern the different scent of linen, cotton, wool, and silk. Fabric should not reek of chemicals.
Really am learning to check the quality of garments, thank you for this!!!👍👍vintage clothes from the 80s were so much better constructed, although I did buy a fab H&M bomber soft jacket which is beautiful! You just hv to inspect before buying. Great examples Marianna💜
Mariana, If you could make this into a series that would be great! I’ve been looking for this information and it would be great to have it all in one channel from someone who has credentials and experience! Also, could you please recommend a smaller Italian store/brand where one may find quality, if possible that ship to the US? I’d love to buy more quality products for my wardrobe, but that won’t be extremely expensive. Thank you in advance!
I was going to ask you how we can apply this advice to shopping on-line, and you answered it. I guess you take a risk and return it if need be. I love cashmere, but I've had several pieces get "worm holes." Can you speak to that some time, any ways to avoid them? Ciao!
Great topic and quite helpful. Since you adore the classic look, i was wondering if thats because of lessons your mother taught you on style. Perhaps a video on that. Lol
I will never buy polyester. I live in the desert of California where it’s hot or warm ,most of the time ,linen and cotton is the only thing in my wardrobe.😊
Tip for silk clothing, which I wear the most and have a lot of experience with: silk frays easily, so every seam should be a French seam, not just an overlock stitch. For knits, look for “fully-fashioned” seams, that is knitted together, not just cut and sewn ones, which quickly develop holes.
Kimberly, I have to admit I made the video hoping you would leave some of your precious tips in the comments 😊
Agree x10000000 on the overlocked seams for silk blouses. Other than Lilysilk and Boden in the UK I'm leery of buying silk online. Unless I can check it out in person and make sure the seams are done right I"m not touching it. I can't believe how many brands try to flog poorly constructed silk garments (indeed poorly constructed everything).
I’ve been lucky enough to see my mother’s old clothes, mainly from the 40s & 50s. It is mind boggling how well they were made. They made the body look better as well!
Mariana, you look so elegant and fabulous in this video! I am so mindful and careful these days when purchasing a new item- whether it is a piece of clothing, shoes, or a handbag. Since I'm almost 50 years old, I remember those nice stores 20-30 years ago when clothes in general were made of a much better quality. I'm talking about late 1990s, early 2000. Not long time ago, I threw some of my old T-shirts from Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger that I purchased in the outlet years ago. They were so well made and the material was twice thicker compared to today's same style T-shirts you find in the outlet. Most of the today's clothes in any given store look so flimsy and poorly constructed. When I was a kid, we would spend the whole morning on getting ready to go to church and ironing our clothes, because you had to look so nice when you were in the church. We were not rich, but the clothes my parents had like coats, shoes, hats somehow were so well made that they lasted for years. I kind of miss those times when people actually dressed up to go out anywhere. Plus, there was a great attention paid to personal care- nails, delicate make up, hair, the right jewelry.
Everything you said is a priceless tip.
From personal experience- expensive is no guard of anything. We have a few stores that have kind of a stigma here in the US - but I have purchased some really good clothing really cheap that has lasted way more than expected.
I totally agree, Coco! I too have affordable pieces that have lasted me for years and years, and are some of my favorites in my wardrobe - and usually get a lot of compliments as well 😌
My grandmother was a seamstress from Sicily where she learned to sew lace for wedding gowns. At an early age she took me shopping not to buy but to examine the difference between quality and sloppy stitching of garments. It’s almost impossible to find quality in fast fashion.
Here is a tip about scarves you may already know: all Hermès scarves are finished by hand-rolling the edges and they are then hand-sewn.
I really like your scarf 🧣.
Me too!
I'm trying to educate myself on fashion and quality after a long life of turning a blind eye to it all and convincing myself I didn't need to learn. This was the first video I've watched and I've learned so much!! Super informative and your sense of humor is a great finishing touch. Thanks for making this =)
I adore your sense of humour when describing poorly constructed items of clothing!
One of my hobbies 😜
I just looked at the hem of my shorts and sure enough it’s the cheap/tacky seam you mentioned when the factory cuts corners. I do love a beautiful French seam. ❤
Ladies, the same with shoes and boots and even tennis shoes! Good 🌄 and thank you, Mariana. Utterly helpful!
Very true. I bought the Staud Waldo full below-the-knee leather boot. The silhouette of the boot and the shape of the heel are beautiful. However, when I ordered online, I never noticed the seam that runs all the way down the center to the toe. It’s just not as elegant with a seam down the front. I also didn’t realize the boots have no zipper and I can barely pull them on or off. The boots, while not inexpensive, were cheaper than many look alikes. So, I now know why.
This is why I don’t understand the popularity of buying fashion online. But that seems to be what we are stuck with forevermore.
It’s so tricky! The convenience of online shopping goes completely out the window when a low-quality piece arrives and you have to deal with the disappointment AND the return process 😕
Ah that's a tricky one. Where I live there's nothing but junky low-end mall fashion available to me - polyester palace after polyester palace. I'm finding I have to shop the world online to find pieces that I'm willing to invest in - if I can't find what I'm after in a local consignment/vintage/thrift shop.
Great advice. Can you do a shoe/ handbag one?
Natural fibers* and materials (like genuine cattle leather) are non-negotiables for me. I just can’t tolerate synthetics, which are just plastics, next to my skin and I overheat in them in under a minute, because they just can’t breathe, which builds up heat, not just sweat, next to the skin. I see so many clothes I love, but just can’t wear, so I just skip over anything in synthetics. The only exception is outerwear, I will wear a nylon, etc. trench coat or rain jacket, so long as it doesn’t touch my skin. Still, it’s a minute off, a minute on, so annoying. There is no such thing as “high-quality”, “luxury”, “technical” or “breathable” synthetics, anyway. Clothes made of these cheap fabrics have no intrinsic value, so no one will want to wear them if they don’t work out for me. I hate Spandex, too.
*Cotton, linen, wool/cashmere and silk. But, I can also wear better-quality rayon/lyocell fabrics, too, they’re even more breathable than silk and are not plastics made from petroleum, but are made from plant fibers, usually sawdust. But, the quality of rayon/viscose varies tremendously. Choose the thicker versions, Lenzing brand Tencel is the best and most eco-clean; fast-fashion viscose can be pretty bad quality and is manufactured using a dangerous cyanide process. Acetates/triacetates are made similarly to rayons, but unfortunately, don’t breathe at all, nor perform very well. Rayon makes a very decent breathable lining for clothing, if not as luxurious as silk. I don’t buy clothes with polyester linings, either, why wear a plastic underlayer?
You wouldn't do a minute on or a minute off with a Burberry trench. I also recommend an unlined cashmere coat. Super warm and cozy.
I agree with everything you say here Kimberly. I'm also annoyed by the very inconsistent quality of rayons - some are not colour fast and warp if they get wet. I don't fancy wearing or breathing dry cleaning solution so if I can't reliably hand-wash it (or machine wash it) then I don't buy it - other than winter coats & suiting. Even that stuff though I'll steam many many times before dry cleaning. A Brooks Brothers employee told me that - steam suiting 10 - 20 times before taking it to the dry cleaner - e.g., try to limit to no more than once a year in order to increase the suit/coat longevity.
I had a vintage Lady Jacket from late 50's and it was a bit shiny toward the end but I felt like Audrey :) 😊
Great video! I would love more videos on this subject, and if you could show examples from your wardrobe of high quality items, that would be a bonus. My oldest wool jumper is still going strong after i bought it in 1997, and it gets worn every winter. It's a black rollneck that skims the thighs and i still get compliments on it. It's so old the label says Hennes & Mauritz, rather than H&M! Which goes to show you can find quality in most shops.
"Sweat more than a sinner in Church"... I know exactly what you mean :) I cannot stand polyester for the same reason, and I do feel like that sometimes in Church too, even wearing linen :)
The occasional burden of sin 😅
Very helpful and thank you; please do another of these quality what to look for
Your absolutely right quality vs quantity!!
Thanks for all the tips in this video, very helpful!! 💐
I wouldn't expect any quality from Zara. Zara doesn't pay a living wage to their workers. Good video. I buy from the stores and brands that are known for their quality. Talbots, Eileen Fisher. I would rather have 1 beautiful piece than 6 that are falling apart when new.
Scrunch up a piece of the fabric in your hand, let go, and see whether it creases or not. If it creases, don't buy it. The creasing will be a problem whether you iron/steam it or not. Obviously, this does not apply to linen, and I would also say that this does not apply to oxford shirts and anything similar, but it is especially useful for garments like trousers, blazers, dresses, some blouses/shirts, and trench coats/coats that you want to look as crease free and smart as possible. Unless they're made of linen, creased garments are not chic, nor do they look like they are high quality.
My mum taught me this one, you’re right!
THANK YOU
I’m currently wearing my husband’s wool coat that he bought 35 years ago. It’s 100% wool with shiny cotton lining and leather covered buttons. He payed $300 for this coat and the quality is top line. I don’t think I would be even able to find garment like that in the store this days.
I always look for blend of wool or 100% cotton in sweaters.
The older you get the more important is to have good quality fabric close to your face. Cheep material makes the lack of colour and wrinkles in your face look way worse!
Good composition in fabric gives the material specific texture and extra glow and it’s very complementary for any skin tone.
Less but better quality is the only way to go.
Thanks so much for this - I really appreciate all the work you went to, to film real-world examples of the red flags! Sometimes it's hard to visualize what is meant by "poor seams." You made it super clear and I feel much better prepared to just say no to junk!
Hi Mariana! I prefer shopping in person for these reasons!! How does one know what they are going to end up with when shopping online?! I have to see, feel and try on each piece. I think it's a hassle to have to send items back too. Just my 2 cents!! Have a great week!! xx
Thanks for bringing attention to good quality construction. You could go an entire series on this.
I came from a family of women who sewed. My grandmother, a classically trained seamstress told me that a garment should be as beautiful on the inside as the outside. She taught me to iron each seam open, bind each seam edge, then tack them down. Patterns had to match at the seams. Garments were fitted to the wearer during construction and hems were measured and pinned with a hem stick.
Fast fashion and easy acquisition of clothing has made this attention to detail a nearly lost art.
Hi Mariana! Last year I visited the Karl Lagerfeld exposition at MET in NYC and I could spot the quality of those iconic dresses even from 2 meters away, but when I looked closely everysingle detail was so perfectly made and sooo pleaseant to the eye. Since then every shooping trip to the fast fashion stores hasn't been the same. Love your videos ❤
Always go for linen or cotton in summer. They need a bit more upkeep than synthetics, as they wrinkle like crazy, but they will prevent you from looking like a sweaty mess within 30 minutes. Even 30€ linen shirt from H&M (if the seams are even) is better than a polyester one for 300€ from a "better" brand.
For wool trousers, make sure that they are lined (at least partially lined), especially if you react to wool/cashmere. Movement against your skin when walking can make even the best wool fabric irritating when it's not properly lined.
I love natural fabric. Please maybe a list of pieces we could buy?
Well done I bought a dress five years ago from an upmarket shop well it was the worst dress I ever purchased. It was very expensive and looked charming but I have never worn it since the wedding .the pattern does not match at the sides there is little or no spare material at the seams etc etc but the reputation the expert sales lady a d the price convinced me it was The Dress.Boy oh boy have I learned my lesson.Wonderful video please do another one if possible. Thank you love love your channel.
Another amazing video❤️
Watch out for the description "Each piece is unique." It means that the printed pattern or woven plaid or even the relief structure of the material played no role at all in designing the item. Instead, someone came up with a shape and then they had to cut as many products as possible out of the available fabric.
It's also good to use your nose. Learn to discern the different scent of linen, cotton, wool, and silk. Fabric should not reek of chemicals.
Really am learning to check the quality of garments, thank you for this!!!👍👍vintage clothes from the 80s were so much better constructed, although I did buy a fab H&M bomber soft jacket which is beautiful! You just hv to inspect before buying. Great examples Marianna💜
Polyester makes me cringe 😬
Thanks for the great tips!!
Mariana,
If you could make this into a series that would be great! I’ve been looking for this information and it would be great to have it all in one channel from someone who has credentials and experience!
Also, could you please recommend a smaller Italian store/brand where one may find quality, if possible that ship to the US? I’d love to buy more quality products for my wardrobe, but that won’t be extremely expensive.
Thank you in advance!
I was going to ask you how we can apply this advice to shopping on-line, and you answered it. I guess you take a risk and return it if need be. I love cashmere, but I've had several pieces get "worm holes." Can you speak to that some time, any ways to avoid them? Ciao!
Keep all wool and cashmere in sweater bags!!!!
Great topic and quite helpful. Since you adore the classic look, i was wondering if thats because of lessons your mother taught you on style. Perhaps a video on that. Lol
I will never buy polyester. I live in the desert of California where it’s hot or warm ,most of the time ,linen and cotton is the only thing in my wardrobe.😊
Great tips. Thank you.
I missed you last week❤. I’ll watch the whole thing then comment again.
Oooh, thank you for noticing 😊 But I’m back!
Great information. Thank you.
thank you Mariana
In your experience, which brands have consistently good quality and are comparatively affordable?