I have this to offer.. once you are pointed at your target, rotate the bubble level until its level.. this will put the white plastic knob at 3:00. from there, move both levers to line up with the white plastic knob at 3:00.. now both levers and white knob are all aligned at 3:00.. this is your Zero correction point. From here make the adjustments to the levers as needed. Thanks for the video!!
That's the way you should use the bubble level. In the video you are adjusting the bubble level to the levers, it should be the other way around. The bubble level is your starting point, not the end adjustment.
You had me at "how does this thing work?" And "no instructions?!" great video! One of the best. Thanks for posting! Hopefully I'll be able to give it a try tonight
Great instructional video and very helpful. I also appreciated some of the comments below and tips, as these were also informative. Well done, thank you for posting ! Cheers from the Utah desert ! Thumbs up. ;-)
jajajajajaja... many times I have been like you at the begining. Thanks a lot, you help me to decide to buy one of this... I'm just an amateur but I like so much to look over my head... clear skies!!!
Holy Grail! Brilliant lol. So I’m up on my opinion of the ADC. I still would like your opinion. How do you think it stacks up vs the RGB align function of Registax6 in regards to aperture? From my experience it’s highly effective at the same task. I would assume it makes more sense to use the ADC because the stacking software would choose a higher frame count. It seems a larger aperture is influenced by dispersion more. How do you find this?
Actually, the dispersion is influenced by the position of the planet in the sky. As I mentioned in my example with sun, the lower the planet is in the sky, the greater the dispersion and the higher the planet is, the lesser the dispersion. So far, I've photographed the planets with an 8 inch Meade LX200 ACF and the Celestron EdgeHD 9.25, and I saw roughly the same amount of dispersion even with the larger aperture of the C9.25. The atmospheric turbulence via the seeing conditions were definitely amplified with an increase in aperture, but I didn't notice it as much when it came to the atmospheric dispersion. The RGB Align works well in Registax, as I use it in my editing process. The ADC, in terms of stacking, should help with determining the frame count since the contrast and sharpness are enhanced. However, the quantity of frames chosen is ultimately determined by the seeing conditions at the time of the video capture.
So glad that Kwasi mentioned your web page. I visited it today, and you have a bundle of helpful hints for Planetary Astrophotography, and especially Lunar Landscape Photography.
Hey awesome video! I wanted to mention that @ the 12:00 mark when you re-adjusted to compensate for rotation its possible rotating the ADC body into alignment instead of moving the levers and ring would have also worked here, plus you won't run out of lever adjustment travel and you won't have to re-adjust telescope alignment because touching the levers causes image shifting off center. But of course minding that the camera equipment won't tangle up in wiring, no issue when doing only visual observing.
@@joseborges8479 Well I use a ADC for visual only. But the levers might have to be adjusted either way, it would be far less/slight if done in combination with rotation of ADC. Keep in mind when adjusting the levers that they are marked off; but its not that precise and its more guess work to have to move them both in larger amounts. But why couldn't the stacked frames be de-rotated in software to counter the ADC rotation and still get the completed outcome? And with lever only technique you need to adjust the levers max three times in 20-30 min intervals before running out of travel and then rotation is the only option anyway. What if the imaging is longer than say 1 hour? And again, most astrophotography rigs have rotating focusers to aid in rotation aswell. If I am wrong please explain?
I could be wrong, but from what I've heard, atmospheric dispersion shouldn't have much of an affect on mono cameras as opposed to OSC cameras. But you can use a OSC camera to get the ADC levels set up initially, then swap it out for your mono camera to do your separate RGB imaging.
Great vid Kwasi. Thank you. 👍 One question... When trying to ascertain whether my ADC is left or right lever pointing I followed your instructions ‐ very clear. But what I found was that that the movement of the reference horizontal was up or down depending on which lever I moved up or down. I'm sure I must have missed something...
Yeah, you have to move the levers equidistant from each other, and the test horizon line should be moving downward for both levers. You can use the tick marks on the rotating ring to measure the distance.
Fantastic video, very intuitive, simple to follow, brilliantly explained, well done and thank you. If I want to add a uv/ir filter to this setup, does the uv/ir filter still screw into the camera, or does it screw onto the Barlow lens. Thanks again for a great video and demonstration 🤙
@@AstroParkAstrophotography thank you for confirming the filter screws onto the camera, it made sense, I was just checking I was correct. Thanks again 👍
As a beginner I know how little information is ever given your supposed to know but the problem is no tells you. Right now I’m putting together the the camera system and for some reason no one ever wants me to tell the thread since male or female, call them and they don’t know will have to get back to you
Back Focus Calculation Help... 146.05 mm - Back Focus Required for a Celestron EdgeHD 11" SCT 91.05 mm - Celestron 48mm T-Adapter ????? mm - Celestron Luminos 2" Barlow Lens ????? mm - ZWO 1.25″ ADC (Atmospheric Dispersion Corrector) 12.5 mm - ZWO ASI678MC - Sensor to Flange There is 42.5mm of Back Focus Required but I have no idea how to achieve this.... Any help would be much appreciated.
Unfortunately, I don't have much experience working with a Newtonian reflector. So I don't know for sure exactly. I heard somewhere that the bubble level would have to be aligned on the left side and everything else that I explained in the tutorial would be the same. Once again, I'm not exactly sure so feel free to experiment in the meantime.
This would be a nightmare on an EQ mounted Newtonian. But it still can be done with a Newtonian if you are mounted on an alt-azimuth mount. You would have to find that particular telescopes horizon line equal by sighting with it at a day target, like a tree or pole for example or the actual horizon - (NEVER LOOK AT THE SUN), even if upside down find the horizon line for your telescope and align your ADC ring with that - now you will not be able to use the bubble level going forward - you won't need it anyway. Also, your ADC bubble level should be at the top as in the video and levers pointing right as telescopes present an upside down image actually - if you are using a star diagonal (as with a visual setup or non-Newtonian) make sure the Bubble level is down and all levers point left now... I mark the imaginary line on my focus drawtube and set my ADC horizon to that reference; then as long as you leave it in place - don't move the ADC orientation and use the levers as normal you are good. Just to note if you are using a refractor or catadioptric type telescope then the advise in the video is going to work just fine.
@@Astroturf100 Tx. Sounds irrelevant then with EQ mount... May be relevant for my Dobsonian, at least it is alt-az, even if/when it will be on an EQ platform, it would be nearly level most of the time).
@@TalGivoly Yes will work for a Dob or alt-az tracking mount too. But the EQ platform performs just like the EQ mount might be better but still going to be hard to get right. The only way to do this is to set the telescope at a neutral position, like a starting point if you will where the actual horizon line is going left and right in your eyepiece view parallel to the ground like in the video. Mark off the horizon line for this position on the facing drawtube this is the horizon reference line. Now find out where the ADC will be when the bubble is vertical when telescope is leveled and tube is horizontal in line with horizon. This difference is your telescope offset amount. When using the telescope and centering and tracking your target match bubble level just as in the video but then back the ADC position back by the amount of offset for your telescope you calculated earlier. Set ADC there and keep changing/rotating it as the tracking goes; vertically with bubble level at first and then add or subtract your offset ADC rotation each time (every twenty or thirty minutes as the video mentions). Once you have the offset amount for that telescope it doesn't change, this can be done but you see the difficulty.
It's not recommended to use a focal reducer when doing solar system astrophotography. The planets are rather small in a camera's field of view, so using a focal reducer will make them appear even smaller. If one were to use a focal reducer with an ADC, I personally don't know of any manufacturers that make reducers which fit the 1.25 inch barrel of the ADC.
I do not get any Atmospheric Dispersion whatsoever with my Newtonian, but I do get some with my Maksutov Cassegrain so I'm guessing the dispersion has something to do with bouncing through too much glass.
Atmospheric dispersion is an aberration caused by the atmosphere where the air molecules disperse the light from the subject like a prism. A telescope can have pristine optics, but can still experience color fringing from the subject due to the atmospheric dispersion. There's nothing wrong with the telescope, but the position of the subject in the sky will determine how pronounced the dispersion is.
Hello I am having trouble with my adc because no matter what I do I can’t stop colour fringing on the edges of my planet photos. I am using an Celestron Nexstar 11 gps, 2x Barlow and Altair gp-cam 2 224c
Hi Miles, if you're still having difficulty, you can also use the "RGB Align" tool in Registax during your post processing. I've seen people call the tool a "poor man's ADC", but I use it occasionally to remove any residual color fringes that my ZWO ADC may have missed. You basically trace a rectangle around the planet, and then click the "Estimate" button. The color fringes should be significantly reduced. You may also experience some stacking artifacts when you click the "Do All" button to apply all the changes, but you should be able to crop those out. It's a tool that works well, but I personally try to maximize my data capture quality out in the field with the ADC so I don't have to do intensive editing in post processing.
Kwasi you might not be the greatest Planetary Astrophotographer yet, but you are an OUTSTANDING COMMUNICATOR! Explaining an ADC is complicated, but you made it simple! Bravo! I have an ADC, but I have never been able to use it correctly. At least your video makes it look do-able!
I actually used the ADC with my Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope, which has the focuser assembly in the back. So this tutorial will also work with a refractor since the focuser is in the back as well. Unfortunately, I don't have much experience with a reflector, but since the focuser is on the side, the setup will be a bit different.
ED glass only corrects for chromatic aberration. Atmospheric dispersion is an aberration caused by the atmosphere as the name implies, and is the most pronounced when the objects you're observing or imaging are low in the sky or near the horizon. It can affect even a telescope with the most pristine optics.
Thanks for watching Phillip! I do use an UV/IR cut filter with my camera out in the field. In the imaging train setup demonstration however, I wanted to focus on how the ADC properly connects with the camera and a barlow lens if you're using one.
The bubble level is used to track the maximum dispersion correction in relation to the horizon line. When the telescope tracks the planet in the sky, the bubble level will shift and re-introduce the atmospheric dispersion. Since the max dispersion correction was already set at the initial correction, you can move the levers up a notch at equal distances until the max correction has been reached again. Then you can re-align the bubble level and it will line up with the new horizon and max correction settings.
Don't you start with the bubble level... that's the way to find the horizon line. When the bubble is level the white setscrew will show you the horizon line.
You have to remember that the position of the telescope changes with respect to the horizon line as the telescope slews and tracks your subject across the sky. So the way that I was taught was to find the max dispersion correction adjustment first before locking it down with the bubble level. I suppose what you're proposing could work, so feel free to experiment and see what works best for you.
@@AstroParkAstrophotography how do you find the dispersion level if it's not level with the horizon? You just be sitting the dispersion cock I had never be able to get rid of it all? I guess I'm confused. If there's a better way I'd like to know it.
If you're still having difficulty, you can also use the "RGB Align" tool in Registax during your post processing. I've seen people call the tool a "poor man's ADC", but I use it occasionally to remove any residual color fringes that my ZWO ADC may have missed. You basically trace a rectangle around the planet, and then click the "Estimate" button. The color fringes should be significantly reduced. You may also experience some stacking artifacts when you click the "Do All" button to apply all the changes, but you should be able to crop those out.
I know, right?! The reviews that I read before buying this talked about the ADC having a good build, which I agree with. I didn't find out about the missing instructions until I opened the box, and I discovered later that others were encountering the same thing. Pretty poor business practices if you ask me.
I think ZWO omit any instructions on purpose. It compels nice people like yourself to make great instructional videos for them 😆. This way, ZWO save money on materials and labour. Pretty crafty business practice eh! 🤣
Hi Kwasi. Do you know the Sol'ex project. It's an affordable spectroheliograph. According to your telescopes you could get stunning solar pictures. Please, just take a look at forums and particularly groups.io discussions about this. Friendly. Claude
Hi Claude, I'm not familiar with the Sol'ex project. I did recently get a solar telescope in the form of the Lunt LS80MT. I did a visual observation so far and the view is fantastic! I'm looking forward to imaging with it soon, and I'll probably do another "My Telescope Family" video for it once I've used it for a while.
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HiCxoDeo0hc/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow. That was the best instructional video I’ve seen. Nobody puts instructions in these complicated devices anymore.
I have this to offer..
once you are pointed at your target, rotate the bubble level until its level.. this will put the white plastic knob at 3:00. from there, move both levers to line up with the white plastic knob at 3:00.. now both levers and white knob are all aligned at 3:00.. this is your Zero correction point. From here make the adjustments to the levers as needed.
Thanks for the video!!
Thanks for the suggestion Tim! I'll give this a try to see if it works for me.
That's the way you should use the bubble level. In the video you are adjusting the bubble level to the levers, it should be the other way around. The bubble level is your starting point, not the end adjustment.
CORRECT SIR.
Thanks for a great video. The sequence where you open the box and look for the manual looked EXACTLY like when I opened my box. Hilarious.
Thank you for putting this video together. It is by far the most informative tutorial that I was able to find on how to use the ADC.
You had me at "how does this thing work?" And "no instructions?!" great video! One of the best. Thanks for posting! Hopefully I'll be able to give it a try tonight
Thanks for the video!
Just received mind today and was stumped on how to use it.
YES ANOTHER BROTHA IN THE GAME🔥💯💪.
You video is very helpful. I struggled with the sharpness, and of course the red/blue fringes. This tutorial is very informative.
Great instructional video and very helpful. I also appreciated some of the comments below and tips, as these were also informative. Well done, thank you for posting ! Cheers from the Utah desert ! Thumbs up. ;-)
Concise and informative, very well done.
finally a video that has a good explanation many video just unbox it and don't even explain the order to connect it thank you very much
Great video. You produced a quality video that is both informative and easy to follow. Thank you!
Thank you for the educational video. Clear skies.
This was perfect! Tysm for posting. ✌️
Awesome video; very well presented!
Excellent video Kwasi
Thanks for the video. Indeed I've noticed lots of Astro stuff in recent purchases where there are no instructions included!
Yeah, it can be frustrating with no instructions but sometimes putting stuff together can be self explanatory depending on the application.
Thanks for the upload much appreciated subscribed 😊clear skies.
Love your videos man, excellent guides!
And many thanks, Kwasi, for instructions. These may be very usefull for me in the near future.
Great video many thanks, I just bought one of these here in the UK thanks for sharing..
Great video.
excellent video
Nice work thanks.
Thank you for your video. I did not know about this type of aberration.
Very helpful video. Thank you!
jajajajajaja... many times I have been like you at the begining. Thanks a lot, you help me to decide to buy one of this... I'm just an amateur but I like so much to look over my head... clear skies!!!
Holy Grail! Brilliant lol. So I’m up on my opinion of the ADC. I still would like your opinion. How do you think it stacks up vs the RGB align function of Registax6 in regards to aperture? From my experience it’s highly effective at the same task. I would assume it makes more sense to use the ADC because the stacking software would choose a higher frame count. It seems a larger aperture is influenced by dispersion more. How do you find this?
Actually, the dispersion is influenced by the position of the planet in the sky. As I mentioned in my example with sun, the lower the planet is in the sky, the greater the dispersion and the higher the planet is, the lesser the dispersion. So far, I've photographed the planets with an 8 inch Meade LX200 ACF and the Celestron EdgeHD 9.25, and I saw roughly the same amount of dispersion even with the larger aperture of the C9.25. The atmospheric turbulence via the seeing conditions were definitely amplified with an increase in aperture, but I didn't notice it as much when it came to the atmospheric dispersion.
The RGB Align works well in Registax, as I use it in my editing process. The ADC, in terms of stacking, should help with determining the frame count since the contrast and sharpness are enhanced. However, the quantity of frames chosen is ultimately determined by the seeing conditions at the time of the video capture.
Nicely done, glad you found the tutorial useful!
It definitely save me a lot of frustration, lol! Thanks again, and I hope all is well on your end in Cyprus!
So glad that Kwasi mentioned your web page. I visited it today, and you have a bundle of helpful hints for Planetary Astrophotography, and especially Lunar Landscape Photography.
Awesome, great video… thanks for doing this👍🏻
Always happy to help! Thanks for watching!
Wonder if they will make a electric automatic version soon
Hey awesome video! I wanted to mention that @ the 12:00 mark when you re-adjusted to compensate for rotation its possible rotating the ADC body into alignment instead of moving the levers and ring would have also worked here, plus you won't run out of lever adjustment travel and you won't have to re-adjust telescope alignment because touching the levers causes image shifting off center. But of course minding that the camera equipment won't tangle up in wiring, no issue when doing only visual observing.
While ok for visual, if doing astrophotography, rotating the ADC is not an option.
@@joseborges8479 Well I use a ADC for visual only. But the levers might have to be adjusted either way, it would be far less/slight if done in combination with rotation of ADC. Keep in mind when adjusting the levers that they are marked off; but its not that precise and its more guess work to have to move them both in larger amounts.
But why couldn't the stacked frames be de-rotated in software to counter the ADC rotation and still get the completed outcome? And with lever only technique you need to adjust the levers max three times in 20-30 min intervals before running out of travel and then rotation is the only option anyway. What if the imaging is longer than say 1 hour? And again, most astrophotography rigs have rotating focusers to aid in rotation aswell.
If I am wrong please explain?
Is this only necessary for viewing or OSC color photography or do you still need it if you shoot mono and the r g b channels separately?
I could be wrong, but from what I've heard, atmospheric dispersion shouldn't have much of an affect on mono cameras as opposed to OSC cameras. But you can use a OSC camera to get the ADC levels set up initially, then swap it out for your mono camera to do your separate RGB imaging.
Great vid Kwasi. Thank you. 👍 One question...
When trying to ascertain whether my ADC is left or right lever pointing I followed your instructions ‐ very clear. But what I found was that that the movement of the reference horizontal was up or down depending on which lever I moved up or down. I'm sure I must have missed something...
Yeah, you have to move the levers equidistant from each other, and the test horizon line should be moving downward for both levers. You can use the tick marks on the rotating ring to measure the distance.
Fantastic video, very intuitive, simple to follow, brilliantly explained, well done and thank you. If I want to add a uv/ir filter to this setup, does the uv/ir filter still screw into the camera, or does it screw onto the Barlow lens. Thanks again for a great video and demonstration 🤙
Thanks for watching, and I'm happy to help! When I use an UV/IR cut filter, I thread it onto the camera and it works just fine.
@@AstroParkAstrophotography thank you for confirming the filter screws onto the camera, it made sense, I was just checking I was correct.
Thanks again 👍
Thx a lot .
As a beginner I know how little information is ever given your supposed to know but the problem is no tells you. Right now I’m putting together the the camera system and for some reason no one ever wants me to tell the thread since male or female, call them and they don’t know will have to get back to you
Back Focus Calculation Help...
146.05 mm - Back Focus Required for a Celestron EdgeHD 11" SCT
91.05 mm - Celestron 48mm T-Adapter
????? mm - Celestron Luminos 2" Barlow Lens
????? mm - ZWO 1.25″ ADC (Atmospheric Dispersion Corrector)
12.5 mm - ZWO ASI678MC - Sensor to Flange
There is 42.5mm of Back Focus Required but I have no idea how to achieve this....
Any help would be much appreciated.
Interesting tutorial mate! well done :-)
Thanks a bunch Luke! I hope you found it useful!
@@AstroParkAstrophotography Certainly! If I end up having a go at planetary properly I'll be taking another look at these I think 👍👍 thanks again!
Thanks! I'm wondering if you might explain how is the horizon found and bubble level used on an equatorial tracking mount with a Newtonian telescope?
Unfortunately, I don't have much experience working with a Newtonian reflector. So I don't know for sure exactly. I heard somewhere that the bubble level would have to be aligned on the left side and everything else that I explained in the tutorial would be the same. Once again, I'm not exactly sure so feel free to experiment in the meantime.
This would be a nightmare on an EQ mounted Newtonian. But it still can be done with a Newtonian if you are mounted on an alt-azimuth mount. You would have to find that particular telescopes horizon line equal by sighting with it at a day target, like a tree or pole for example or the actual horizon - (NEVER LOOK AT THE SUN), even if upside down find the horizon line for your telescope and align your ADC ring with that - now you will not be able to use the bubble level going forward - you won't need it anyway. Also, your ADC bubble level should be at the top as in the video and levers pointing right as telescopes present an upside down image actually - if you are using a star diagonal (as with a visual setup or non-Newtonian) make sure the Bubble level is down and all levers point left now... I mark the imaginary line on my focus drawtube and set my ADC horizon to that reference; then as long as you leave it in place - don't move the ADC orientation and use the levers as normal you are good. Just to note if you are using a refractor or catadioptric type telescope then the advise in the video is going to work just fine.
@@Astroturf100 Tx. Sounds irrelevant then with EQ mount... May be relevant for my Dobsonian, at least it is alt-az, even if/when it will be on an EQ platform, it would be nearly level most of the time).
@@TalGivoly Yes will work for a Dob or alt-az tracking mount too. But the EQ platform performs just like the EQ mount might be better but still going to be hard to get right. The only way to do this is to set the telescope at a neutral position, like a starting point if you will where the actual horizon line is going left and right in your eyepiece view parallel to the ground like in the video. Mark off the horizon line for this position on the facing drawtube this is the horizon reference line. Now find out where the ADC will be when the bubble is vertical when telescope is leveled and tube is horizontal in line with horizon. This difference is your telescope offset amount.
When using the telescope and centering and tracking your target match bubble level just as in the video but then back the ADC position back by the amount of offset for your telescope you calculated earlier. Set ADC there and keep changing/rotating it as the tracking goes; vertically with bubble level at first and then add or subtract your offset ADC rotation each time (every twenty or thirty minutes as the video mentions). Once you have the offset amount for that telescope it doesn't change, this can be done but you see the difficulty.
@@Astroturf100 Do you get Atmospheric Dispersion on a Newtonian? I never have.
Now in that setup if you were going to throw in a focal reducer where would you put it?
It's not recommended to use a focal reducer when doing solar system astrophotography. The planets are rather small in a camera's field of view, so using a focal reducer will make them appear even smaller. If one were to use a focal reducer with an ADC, I personally don't know of any manufacturers that make reducers which fit the 1.25 inch barrel of the ADC.
I do not get any Atmospheric Dispersion whatsoever with my Newtonian, but I do get some with my Maksutov Cassegrain so I'm guessing the dispersion has something to do with bouncing through too much glass.
Atmospheric dispersion is an aberration caused by the atmosphere where the air molecules disperse the light from the subject like a prism. A telescope can have pristine optics, but can still experience color fringing from the subject due to the atmospheric dispersion. There's nothing wrong with the telescope, but the position of the subject in the sky will determine how pronounced the dispersion is.
Hello I am having trouble with my adc because no matter what I do I can’t stop colour fringing on the edges of my planet photos. I am using an Celestron Nexstar 11 gps, 2x Barlow and Altair gp-cam 2 224c
Hi Miles, if you're still having difficulty, you can also use the "RGB Align" tool in Registax during your post processing. I've seen people call the tool a "poor man's ADC", but I use it occasionally to remove any residual color fringes that my ZWO ADC may have missed. You basically trace a rectangle around the planet, and then click the "Estimate" button. The color fringes should be significantly reduced. You may also experience some stacking artifacts when you click the "Do All" button to apply all the changes, but you should be able to crop those out. It's a tool that works well, but I personally try to maximize my data capture quality out in the field with the ADC so I don't have to do intensive editing in post processing.
I don't know whether to buy one of these, or move to the Canary Islands! AD can be awful in UK
Kwasi you might not be the greatest Planetary Astrophotographer yet, but you are an OUTSTANDING COMMUNICATOR! Explaining an ADC is complicated, but you made it simple! Bravo! I have an ADC, but I have never been able to use it correctly. At least your video makes it look do-able!
I'm glad you found this helpful! Thank you for the kind words!
There are 2 different ways to set up an ADC. 1 is for a refractor and 2 is for a reflector. Which way are you explaining 1 or 2?
Thanks
Drew
I actually used the ADC with my Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope, which has the focuser assembly in the back. So this tutorial will also work with a refractor since the focuser is in the back as well. Unfortunately, I don't have much experience with a reflector, but since the focuser is on the side, the setup will be a bit different.
@@AstroParkAstrophotography well done keep them coming!
do i need a adc when i already have ed glas which corrects the refractor?
ED glass only corrects for chromatic aberration. Atmospheric dispersion is an aberration caused by the atmosphere as the name implies, and is the most pronounced when the objects you're observing or imaging are low in the sky or near the horizon. It can affect even a telescope with the most pristine optics.
I really like your video. did not see you use a UV/IR cut filter with your color camera. Why not?
Thanks for watching Phillip! I do use an UV/IR cut filter with my camera out in the field. In the imaging train setup demonstration however, I wanted to focus on how the ADC properly connects with the camera and a barlow lens if you're using one.
Is the level used for the horizon line reference?
The bubble level is used to track the maximum dispersion correction in relation to the horizon line. When the telescope tracks the planet in the sky, the bubble level will shift and re-introduce the atmospheric dispersion. Since the max dispersion correction was already set at the initial correction, you can move the levers up a notch at equal distances until the max correction has been reached again. Then you can re-align the bubble level and it will line up with the new horizon and max correction settings.
Don't you start with the bubble level... that's the way to find the horizon line. When the bubble is level the white setscrew will show you the horizon line.
You have to remember that the position of the telescope changes with respect to the horizon line as the telescope slews and tracks your subject across the sky. So the way that I was taught was to find the max dispersion correction adjustment first before locking it down with the bubble level. I suppose what you're proposing could work, so feel free to experiment and see what works best for you.
@@AstroParkAstrophotography how do you find the dispersion level if it's not level with the horizon? You just be sitting the dispersion cock I had never be able to get rid of it all? I guess I'm confused. If there's a better way I'd like to know it.
1... 2... 5! Three, sir! Three!
It's one of those rare instances where the whole movie is quotable, lol!
It’s me, not you, but after nearly a year I still can’t get any results with it.
What type of telescope?
@@nethertamer9943 C8
If you're still having difficulty, you can also use the "RGB Align" tool in Registax during your post processing. I've seen people call the tool a "poor man's ADC", but I use it occasionally to remove any residual color fringes that my ZWO ADC may have missed. You basically trace a rectangle around the planet, and then click the "Estimate" button. The color fringes should be significantly reduced. You may also experience some stacking artifacts when you click the "Do All" button to apply all the changes, but you should be able to crop those out.
Read the ZWO manual. It's voodoo what you do here. :))))
They had good reviews and no instructions. Wow
I know, right?! The reviews that I read before buying this talked about the ADC having a good build, which I agree with. I didn't find out about the missing instructions until I opened the box, and I discovered later that others were encountering the same thing. Pretty poor business practices if you ask me.
I think ZWO omit any instructions on purpose. It compels nice people like yourself to make great instructional videos for them 😆. This way, ZWO save money on materials and labour. Pretty crafty business practice eh! 🤣
Well I guess something good came out of it in the end, lol!
Hi Kwasi.
Do you know the Sol'ex project. It's an affordable spectroheliograph. According to your telescopes you could get stunning solar pictures. Please, just take a look at forums and particularly groups.io discussions about this.
Friendly. Claude
Hi Claude, I'm not familiar with the Sol'ex project. I did recently get a solar telescope in the form of the Lunt LS80MT. I did a visual observation so far and the view is fantastic! I'm looking forward to imaging with it soon, and I'll probably do another "My Telescope Family" video for it once I've used it for a while.