Top marks for this guide. Very comprehensive and hands on live tutorial! And I'm comparing it to some of the 'go to' guides out there that you have also seen. You know those guys! When you put thing into practice and go 'hands on' live in a guide, it make so much difference. You worked out your best settings, broke them down and then built them back up again for the video. This one will be used for years to come by many, many people.
I just completed my configs on my miniDSP using your tutorial. I've never seen a scientific way to pick a crossover point. The section on alignment has killed me now. I've gone to heaven with my setup. Its so clean now, I want to cry. I cant tell you Thank you enough! I want to share this with everybody!
Brad your how to videos are the absolute gold standard of instruction and tutorial. Thank you thank you thank you. Just Time aligned my 2.2 stereo with SHD for the first time and I’ve had the product for two years I was just really using Dirac but what a difference with your tutorials. More please
Brad, Thanks for another brilliant video. Gotta get one of these for my "poor man's" 5.2.2 system. Settings, timing, tuning. So much work to make it right, but worth it!
Another informative tutorial on calibration of home theater. Great job! I thinking of having two profiles. One matching subs to mains and the second, subs to center. only because Anthony Grimani mentioned it in video with Gene from Audioholics.
Hey man just wanted to say I absolutely love this guide. I follow Audioholics and even went out and got Floyd E Toole’s book in its current edition but there’s little tips you’ve got in your video that even the larger scale content guys don’t have. The phase matching feature in REW was something so simple but honestly a feature I was never aware of and I’ve had my DSP HD for about 6 months! Keep up the good work!!
You whipped through all that impressively quick! -Any reason why you aren't adding the delay to the subs at the input instead of each output?- EDIT: Just looked at mine and there is none which is why you aren't lol. Also using Excel would make for calculating delays a lot easier since you could put your delays at the top for each subwoofer so lets say you put labels at the top and side (row 1 and col A) then each delay in row 2 (so C2, D2, E2 for each sub) then you each crossover's overall delay in column B then you can do =C$2+$B3 in cell C3 and then drag the formulas down and over with the square in the bottom right corner to fill everything in and get all the delays correctly without needing to do the math for each then you can copy paste. The $ in the formulas locks in that value so that part of the cell doesn't change when dragging so $B$3 would make it so you can drag that formula anywhere in the sheet and it wont try to increment it to the next cell like B4 or C3. Any chance you plan to play with MSO?
Great series of instructions, Not sure how to start with my set up. I have a Yamaha RX A2060 connected to a Parasound A23 amp for my front LR.. I also have a Parasound P6 Pre amp that has HT bypass which allows me to use both my subs (2) and my front LR speakers in a two channel system. I think I can only correct for either the subs or the speakers. I am really looking to get the best out of the 2 channel Side of the system. Any ideas on the best way for me to start. Thanks, Mike
@Home Theater Gamer: Love your videos. You have produced some of the easier videos to follow for sub/speaker integration w/minidsp that I have found on RUclips. Thanks for the effort in making these videos. Now, if I could only find a Umik-1 in stock. :) Subscribed.
Great video! I finally got a umik 1 and ran some sweeps. I was actually surprised on my room responce. Pretty flat. Needs work right around the crossover point. Since I feel a little more comfortable with doing it after watching your videos. Keep up the great work! I hope you do a video of your thoughts on your 85 inch vizio tv. I'm thinking about getting the same one you got or the Sony x900h.
@@brnmaull yes I like it alot. My buddy has a 65 in LG oled and the picture is fantastic but we both agree the 85 is so much bigger(wow factor). I prefer Sony over all others just because it's more natural pic. I did not like watching football on it and prefer my Sony 65 900f I believe is the model. But for movies it's fantastic. Turned the brightness down to 20, was just to bright for our preference. I use a 4k roku with it. They also have the new models out but I know nothing about them. Bigger the screen the better. Running a 7.2.4 so you need that cinema screen.
I've watched a BUNCH of videos on REW and the MINIDSP, and your videos rank very high on the list. Really good stuff. One thing I have not seen in ANY videos on YT is the full response of someone's system after setup. It always seems the measurement taken are for bass only. I know everyone has a personal preference, but I'm interested in seeing what the actual FR of a "properly" adjusted system is. I'd like to use it as a starting point, and then adjust for my own tastes. Hoping you'll see this even though this reference guide is a year old.
So, I upgraded the minidsp 2x4 HD to the DDRC-24 with Dirac vis firmware/software. I take it, that I would follow all of your steps here and then instead of running Audyssey, I'd go through Dirac Calibration? These are great videos Brad.
Hi Brad. Fantastic channel and thanks for taking the time to help all us clueless enthusiasts with your thorough walkthroughs. I have a question for you though please. I have a miniDSP and Umik-1, and this is the second time I'm following your setup series, having just upgraded both my subs. I can get a really nice house curve EQd in my main listening position. However, when measuring at any one of the three other seating positions on the sofa, the house curve is absolute garbage and looks like a seismology graph reading an earthquake. So, my question is, if you only have two subs like I do, what's the point in going to all this effort just so one seat out of four has a good listening experience? I appreciate a third and fourth sub would probably help but that's not an option for me. Thanks Brad, hope you get to see this message and can offer some advice.
Great explanation, but not sure I understand. If after all this work, why is it still necessary, or desirable, to re-run the AVR room calibration process? YAPO in my case. What will YPAO do to improve or presumably correct any lingering EQ/sound issue?
For setting the crossovers, did you find adjusting the crossovers for each speaker to yield better results as opposed to setting a universal crossover for all speakers? Gene at Audioholics suggested having one crossover point common to all speakers.
After setting the sub-to-main crossovers using the technique I did in the video, I found that the best crossover for the center and surrounds did indeed match the front crossovers (110Hz in my system). These may not be the same for everyone though, and with crossovers there's no "one size fits all" setting as the room plays a major role. Since measurements don't take very long, it's easy to run through four or five crossovers for a given speaker in just a few minutes, then pick the on that has the smoothest response. In all honesty, you'd likely never notice if your fronts were set to 110Hz and your center was set to 80Hz.
@@HomeTheaterGamer Thanks for your reply! Will do some tests and follow your video to see what I come up with in my space. Thanks for such great videos!
I have one more question: do the front speakers have to be on at the beginning as well, or only at the crossover frequency? Thanks for the good video. :)
hey brad, redoing my calibration after trying the a1 evo script. liked your method so coming back to this. i'm at the spot where i'm about to run audyssey. in this video, you just change the subwoofer frequency range to 0-20 in the multieq app. Before i adjust crossovers w/my speakers (video part 4), should i also be changing the frequency range for my other speakers from 0-350 and turn off midrange compensation like you have in your multieq app video? Thanks for your help.
Thanks alot for the whole series. Your understanding and skill of explaing is amazing. I have been watching carefully and start understanding a bit now. Can you help me saying DSP-408 dayton will not be good enough to do the task. Because there is not much explanation video for Dayton as yours on minidsp I cannot compare. Wanting to equalize/ crossover LCR as they use external amp, Dayton 4ch (lcr+sub) input is pretty tempting. But if not good enough for subs, i may buy one of this for subs and one dayton for lcr.
I’m going to be following your guises soon for a dual subwoofer setup. Quick question that wasn’t directly covered - what do you do with the distance setting that my AVR has set from running its room eq prior to getting the MiniDSP? I know from experimenting with it before that it can have an impact on the phase alignment of the subs and mains. You said to make sure the sub level is set to 0.0db on the AVR prior to attempting to level match and get delays, but what about the distance info?
You can leave the sub distance setting as is if you’d like, as I go over how to use REW’s Alignment Tool to get delay values to add to the MiniDSP, which will ensure alignment of your subwoofers with your main speakers. If you are going to mess with the distance settings, I’d suggest time aligning your subs with each other first, then adjusting distance in the receiver. You may even want consider doing EQ in the MiniDSP before adjusting distance as well, as it will make any issues in your response easier to see.
@@HomeTheaterGamer ok, thanks for the response! This weekend, I’m going to be following your tutorials from beginning to the end (likely going to skip doing the house curve eq, but am going to do everything else and see what I think). Super excited for this project - I can’t thank you enough for the awesome videos! Will check back in if I end up having more questions. Keep up the great work! 👍
@@HomeTheaterGamer So I’ve had lots of success using your guides - my bass curve is looking absolutely amazing now and it sounds incredible! One problem I’m having though is I haven’t figured out how to properly time align crossovers over 90hz. With my setup, when I follow your instructions, the time alignment tool gives my a positive number (I.e. 13.36ms) as the delay to apply to my mains. Since it’s positive, I can’t simply add it as a delay to the subs and my receiver doesn’t allow me to set delays (it only has a distance setting in feet). What do you do when the front speakers delays the alignment tool gives you are positive numbers? If I’m going to have to add the delays in my receiver somehow, what is the formula for converting m/s delay into feet to input in the distance setting? Thanks!
Great tutorials!!! My only question is what DISTANCE should we start with on the subwoofer on my Marantz AVR? I have two subwoofer locations but only 1 sub output in Audyssey on my AVR. Do I run Audyssey and let it choose a distance of the sub and then time align from there, or take a physical measurement to one of my subs? I just need a starting point to begin the time alignment as described in your videos. Thanks so much.
The first thing you ate trying to achieve is time alignment between just the subs. You need to measure a sweep on the furthest sub, then same on the second sub. The delay you enter in your dsp is determined by trial and error by changing the delay on the closest sub until the energy across the whole graph is greater (positive summation) The idea is to time align all subs with audessey off and the calibration will 'see' only one omnipresent sub once all are aligned. This is totally independent of sub to main integration where crossover frequency and delay are set after you sub calibration.
Hey, love the channel and when I get a 2nd sub later this year i'll be all over the MiniDSP guides, but out of interest is there any benefit at all to getting the miniDSP now with just the 1 sub?
Hi, I have the Yamaha RX-A4A & am curious if adjusting the 2 subs individually within the receiver would be better than adjusting both as 1 unit? I am very new to DSP capabilities & how sonic summation treats the summed pair. Curious as to just how much correction can be applied through the Yamaha web editor. Thanks
Hi Brad. Can you explain why I would remove any room EQ settings before starting this process please? I can sort of understand that for the sub but not the mains. So for me, on a Yamaha processor, as I can't find an off setting, I would set my EQ to through? Thanks in advance for any advice as in my head aligning the subs to mains that have been adjusted via YPAO makes more sense. Thanks, Justin
no sub crawl. You have to move subs to all possible positions and just measure them with REW. Then choose the best ones and use them for further aligment with minidsp (or Audyssey).
Do I understand that correctly. For the bass response the aim is a flat curve? Better said as flat as possible? Like in the video your aim seems to be spl 93
When time aligning, yes, the flatter the better. The reason I aim for at least 85dB is so that when EQing and adding the house curve, REW is going to end up cutting frequencies instead of boosting them, which is easier for REW to do and you won’t have to worry about overdriving the sub(s) at a certain frequency.
Hi Brad, I love your video series on minidsp and ordered my very own. One thing I'm just wondering about: is it advisable to just leave Audyssey and only EQ the subs, inputting crossovers and distances (perhaps from previous Audyssey measurements) manually into the receiver? Or is Audyssey worthwile for the speakers up to 300hz or so, in your opinion?
12:06 Why does my curve change so much after Auddyssy calibration even when I follow every step ? My Curve was so good before Auddyssy Calibration and I even purchased the App, disabled the room correction on the subwoofer and uploaded it to the AVR
Hi, might be a dumb question but i have 2 15” subs daisy chained in the front and 2 10” subs daisy chained in the back. Should I shutoff 1 front and 1 back when going through this process then at the end just spl sub volume to match listening position?
Is there any reason you can't run Audyssey before doing the sub time alignment, as long as you turn off the sub-EQ in the app afterward (or Audyssey entirely)? Everyone recommends having sub trim be -10/11ish to allow for digital headroom, but if you do all this REW stuff first, you'll end up having to change the gain knobs running Audyssey afterward in order to get that trim level correct, which will throw all your REW measurements off. Would there be an issue running the time alignment measurements with sub trim at -11?
I don´t get why you hit the EQ to every Sub in the Output, normally you hit the EQ in the INPUT and it adapts to all subs. Pls tell me if I´m wrong. What´s the advantage of having the "house curve" compared to having a "flat EQ" on the Subs. I own an Arcam AVR 550, it´s a bit complicated with the crossover stuff and having no EQ from Dirac Live on the Sub(s) Have never seen the crossover stuff (sub to main-time-alignment)on any channel before, need to try this one, thanks man ;)
You’re not wrong, but applying the EQ to the input side instead of the output side makes adjusting certain frequencies after applying EQ a bit more complicated. It’s easier to just apply EQ to all subs on the output, then fine tune your response on the input side. The house curve is useful if you either listen at lower than reference level or like a tad more bass especially in the 20-30Hz area. Flat is great if you’re after total accuracy in your system or if you use some type of Dynamic EQ. A well implemented house curve will not overpower your main speakers, either. It will still sound balanced but a bit of extra “kick” over flat.
@@HomeTheaterGamer Thanks for the fast response. I haven´t thought in that way, good hint tho with EQing subs alone, mostly there are still some fine hills, even after EQing. I´m mostly not listening at reference level but the LFE-channel is normally 10 db louder, so if you still boost it more it would be like 15-20 db louder in the bass region. I prefer having a more audiophile-flat curve or falling from sub-frequencies to super-high´s, so you have the choice of using mains alone for music or with sub and trim the sub-channel to your needs. With thinking about crossover frequency, normally 12db/octave, you should be save with around 80 Hz. According to information from DTS they cut LFE signals at 80Hz, Dolby cuts at 120Hz. highly appreciate your work there, keep it going ;)
The "house curve" is typically a method to compensate for lower bass levels at reduced volumes. My receiver does what it calls "THX Loudness Plus" where it dynamically boosts the bass levels as the system volume is reduced. Because of that, I let the receiver handle what amounts to a dynamic "house curve" rather than building a fixed "house curve" in the EQ. Since the EQ is applied at reference levels I just EQ for a flat response and my receiver does the rest.
In theory, you shouldn’t as long as the distance and level settings in the Anthem AVM70 are the same as they were on the Marantz. I would still run some REW measurements to verify though.
@Home Theater Gamer Is it just me doing something wrong here? @ 14.55 in this video you have 2 diffrent graphs showing 60hz and 80 hz. You say to unplug LR. I have now tested this 100 times but my messurements dont change what ever i do... My messurements is 100% the same on 60-80-100-110 and 120hz. With LR and without LR. Did you forget to mention some steps or do i have som faulty setup here?
Hmmm... That is interesting. I rewatched that section and the steps are there, and it should be repeatable on your setup. Something is going on there if all of your measurements are the same. Are your speakers set to small? Are you using JAVA in REW or ASIO4ALL?
Ok I have the minidsp 2x4 hd I have the power hooked to my power conditioner I have the USB into my laptop also have the umik1 plugged into my laptop I have the minidsp input 1 running to my emotiva xmc2 with my 4 subs plugged into the output side of the minidsp I have a fiber optic hdmi cable from my processor hooked to my laptop I have my rew all setup correctly my minidsp 2x4 hd plug-in downloaded connected with everything hooked up correctly I have double and triple checked but when I check ny levels and also when I try to measure I get no sound
Audyssey will either, 1) apply EQ changes to counter your miniDSP EQ, which is a chance to introduce distortion by the two fighting each other. 2) Or, Applying Audyssey EQ in addition to your miniDSP EQ has a great chance to introduce distortion. Ideally, you want fewer devices as possible adjusting your signal. (pick one or the other). Boosting EQ has a high chance of distortion which is why it's best to cut frequencies to achieve a flat signal.
Hi Brad, I have followed your guide I have the Onkyo RZ50 with Dirac Live I cannot adjust distances after Dirac has done its thing and don’t think I can disable EQ on the sub. So my question is Should I Minidsp REW to Eq flat or should I still house curve EQ. I did the house curved as per your guide then Dirac live EQ later I add ed Harmon Curve 4dB boost curve not sure if this is right or not. Can you assist??
Thanks for the comment and man, that is frustrating for sure. I like Dirac but I also prefer to have a manual EQ on the sub, so I get where the issues come in. Since you can’t disable the sub EQ, I’d try and match the house curve you originally setup through my guides within Dirac Live so it’s a match to what you did on the REW side. I’d highly recommend taking measurements in REW after Dirac does it’s thing, and it may require a bit of tinkering back and forth to get it all working well together. But once you do you should never have to touch it again.
Yes sounds good, was thinking of if EQ flat in the DSP and then can use the Harmon Curve 10db or lower to give that house curve. Which would mimic the house curve I created using you guide. Would you think that would be a good way to go. Thanks.
One thing I can confirm with the DSP I have now got rid of the boomy on women’s voices as I Billie e I had a null and to over come the null before I was over posting which resulting in the boomy of the women’s voices.
I try to make the result tangible audyssey on the computer in a file ady from the mobile to go through a program its curve harman and to transfer it again to the mobile phone at multieq app and as soon as I go to put it in me it says envelope corrupted...😞😞😞why this happening?
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Top marks for this guide. Very comprehensive and hands on live tutorial! And I'm comparing it to some of the 'go to' guides out there that you have also seen. You know those guys! When you put thing into practice and go 'hands on' live in a guide, it make so much difference. You worked out your best settings, broke them down and then built them back up again for the video. This one will be used for years to come by many, many people.
I just completed my configs on my miniDSP using your tutorial. I've never seen a scientific way to pick a crossover point. The section on alignment has killed me now. I've gone to heaven with my setup. Its so clean now, I want to cry. I cant tell you Thank you enough! I want to share this with everybody!
Thanks! I'm really glad it helped you out!
looked at all 4 parts, perfect info, my system now sounds perfect, follow everything accurately and you will enjoy a perfect and controlled sound
Brad your how to videos are the absolute gold standard of instruction and tutorial. Thank you thank you thank you. Just Time aligned my 2.2 stereo with SHD for the first time and I’ve had the product for two years I was just really using Dirac but what a difference with your tutorials. More please
Excellent video. Watched all five. I've never tried this but I think after watching I'm ready to tackle it. Thanks for the classes.
This was great for someone who is familiar like me but, not quite good at it yet. Thank you! I needed this 2 months ago lol
Brad, Thanks for another brilliant video. Gotta get one of these for my "poor man's" 5.2.2 system. Settings, timing, tuning. So much work to make it right, but worth it!
Another informative tutorial on calibration of home theater. Great job! I thinking of having two profiles. One matching subs to mains and the second, subs to center. only because Anthony Grimani mentioned it in video with Gene from Audioholics.
Great video! Very clear and logical. This would be the video I use to calibrate my system. Thanks Brad!
Hey man just wanted to say I absolutely love this guide. I follow Audioholics and even went out and got Floyd E Toole’s book in its current edition but there’s little tips you’ve got in your video that even the larger scale content guys don’t have. The phase matching feature in REW was something so simple but honestly a feature I was never aware of and I’ve had my DSP HD for about 6 months! Keep up the good work!!
You whipped through all that impressively quick! -Any reason why you aren't adding the delay to the subs at the input instead of each output?- EDIT: Just looked at mine and there is none which is why you aren't lol. Also using Excel would make for calculating delays a lot easier since you could put your delays at the top for each subwoofer so lets say you put labels at the top and side (row 1 and col A) then each delay in row 2 (so C2, D2, E2 for each sub) then you each crossover's overall delay in column B then you can do =C$2+$B3 in cell C3 and then drag the formulas down and over with the square in the bottom right corner to fill everything in and get all the delays correctly without needing to do the math for each then you can copy paste. The $ in the formulas locks in that value so that part of the cell doesn't change when dragging so $B$3 would make it so you can drag that formula anywhere in the sheet and it wont try to increment it to the next cell like B4 or C3.
Any chance you plan to play with MSO?
Great series of instructions,
Not sure how to start with my set up. I have a Yamaha RX A2060 connected to a Parasound A23 amp for my front LR.. I also have a Parasound P6 Pre amp that has HT bypass which allows me to use both my subs (2) and my front LR speakers in a two channel system. I think I can only correct for either the subs or the speakers. I am really looking to get the best out of the 2 channel Side of the system. Any ideas on the best way for me to start.
Thanks,
Mike
@Home Theater Gamer: Love your videos. You have produced some of the easier videos to follow for sub/speaker integration w/minidsp that I have found on RUclips. Thanks for the effort in making these videos. Now, if I could only find a Umik-1 in stock. :) Subscribed.
Glad you found them helpful. I’d love to know your results once you’re able to get a UMIK.
Another great 👍 video. I have done all that but I still only get sound out of the towers not the subs?
Great video! I finally got a umik 1 and ran some sweeps. I was actually surprised on my room responce. Pretty flat. Needs work right around the crossover point. Since I feel a little more comfortable with doing it after watching your videos. Keep up the great work! I hope you do a video of your thoughts on your 85 inch vizio tv. I'm thinking about getting the same one you got or the Sony x900h.
I have the x900h in 85 inch.
@@pete3882 Do you like it?
@@brnmaull yes I like it alot. My buddy has a 65 in LG oled and the picture is fantastic but we both agree the 85 is so much bigger(wow factor). I prefer Sony over all others just because it's more natural pic. I did not like watching football on it and prefer my Sony 65 900f I believe is the model. But for movies it's fantastic. Turned the brightness down to 20, was just to bright for our preference. I use a 4k roku with it. They also have the new models out but I know nothing about them. Bigger the screen the better. Running a 7.2.4 so you need that cinema screen.
I've watched a BUNCH of videos on REW and the MINIDSP, and your videos rank very high on the list. Really good stuff. One thing I have not seen in ANY videos on YT is the full response of someone's system after setup. It always seems the measurement taken are for bass only. I know everyone has a personal preference, but I'm interested in seeing what the actual FR of a "properly" adjusted system is. I'd like to use it as a starting point, and then adjust for my own tastes.
Hoping you'll see this even though this reference guide is a year old.
So, I upgraded the minidsp 2x4 HD to the DDRC-24 with Dirac vis firmware/software. I take it, that I would follow all of your steps here and then instead of running Audyssey, I'd go through Dirac Calibration? These are great videos Brad.
Hi Brad. Fantastic channel and thanks for taking the time to help all us clueless enthusiasts with your thorough walkthroughs.
I have a question for you though please. I have a miniDSP and Umik-1, and this is the second time I'm following your setup series, having just upgraded both my subs.
I can get a really nice house curve EQd in my main listening position. However, when measuring at any one of the three other seating positions on the sofa, the house curve is absolute garbage and looks like a seismology graph reading an earthquake.
So, my question is, if you only have two subs like I do, what's the point in going to all this effort just so one seat out of four has a good listening experience?
I appreciate a third and fourth sub would probably help but that's not an option for me.
Thanks Brad, hope you get to see this message and can offer some advice.
Great explanation, but not sure I understand. If after all this work, why is it still necessary, or desirable, to re-run the AVR room calibration process? YAPO in my case. What will YPAO do to improve or presumably correct any lingering EQ/sound issue?
Hi Brad at 3:52 you said you have already calibrated the front left sub with the fron left speaker off camera. How do I do this?
For setting the crossovers, did you find adjusting the crossovers for each speaker to yield better results as opposed to setting a universal crossover for all speakers? Gene at Audioholics suggested having one crossover point common to all speakers.
After setting the sub-to-main crossovers using the technique I did in the video, I found that the best crossover for the center and surrounds did indeed match the front crossovers (110Hz in my system). These may not be the same for everyone though, and with crossovers there's no "one size fits all" setting as the room plays a major role. Since measurements don't take very long, it's easy to run through four or five crossovers for a given speaker in just a few minutes, then pick the on that has the smoothest response. In all honesty, you'd likely never notice if your fronts were set to 110Hz and your center was set to 80Hz.
@@HomeTheaterGamer Thanks for your reply! Will do some tests and follow your video to see what I come up with in my space. Thanks for such great videos!
I have one more question: do the front speakers have to be on at the beginning as well, or only at the crossover frequency? Thanks for the good video. :)
I really liked this series and the way you get into details. Any chance you could get into EZBeq and how to operate that?
hey brad, redoing my calibration after trying the a1 evo script. liked your method so coming back to this. i'm at the spot where i'm about to run audyssey. in this video, you just change the subwoofer frequency range to 0-20 in the multieq app. Before i adjust crossovers w/my speakers (video part 4), should i also be changing the frequency range for my other speakers from 0-350 and turn off midrange compensation like you have in your multieq app video? Thanks for your help.
Thanks alot for the whole series. Your understanding and skill of explaing is amazing. I have been watching carefully and start understanding a bit now. Can you help me saying DSP-408 dayton will not be good enough to do the task. Because there is not much explanation video for Dayton as yours on minidsp I cannot compare. Wanting to equalize/ crossover LCR as they use external amp, Dayton 4ch (lcr+sub) input is pretty tempting. But if not good enough for subs, i may buy one of this for subs and one dayton for lcr.
I’m going to be following your guises soon for a dual subwoofer setup. Quick question that wasn’t directly covered - what do you do with the distance setting that my AVR has set from running its room eq prior to getting the MiniDSP? I know from experimenting with it before that it can have an impact on the phase alignment of the subs and mains. You said to make sure the sub level is set to 0.0db on the AVR prior to attempting to level match and get delays, but what about the distance info?
You can leave the sub distance setting as is if you’d like, as I go over how to use REW’s Alignment Tool to get delay values to add to the MiniDSP, which will ensure alignment of your subwoofers with your main speakers.
If you are going to mess with the distance settings, I’d suggest time aligning your subs with each other first, then adjusting distance in the receiver. You may even want consider doing EQ in the MiniDSP before adjusting distance as well, as it will make any issues in your response easier to see.
@@HomeTheaterGamer ok, thanks for the response! This weekend, I’m going to be following your tutorials from beginning to the end (likely going to skip doing the house curve eq, but am going to do everything else and see what I think). Super excited for this project - I can’t thank you enough for the awesome videos! Will check back in if I end up having more questions. Keep up the great work! 👍
@@HomeTheaterGamer So I’ve had lots of success using your guides - my bass curve is looking absolutely amazing now and it sounds incredible! One problem I’m having though is I haven’t figured out how to properly time align crossovers over 90hz. With my setup, when I follow your instructions, the time alignment tool gives my a positive number (I.e. 13.36ms) as the delay to apply to my mains. Since it’s positive, I can’t simply add it as a delay to the subs and my receiver doesn’t allow me to set delays (it only has a distance setting in feet).
What do you do when the front speakers delays the alignment tool gives you are positive numbers? If I’m going to have to add the delays in my receiver somehow, what is the formula for converting m/s delay into feet to input in the distance setting?
Thanks!
Great tutorials!!! My only question is what DISTANCE should we start with on the subwoofer on my Marantz AVR? I have two subwoofer locations but only 1 sub output in Audyssey on my AVR. Do I run Audyssey and let it choose a distance of the sub and then time align from there, or take a physical measurement to one of my subs? I just need a starting point to begin the time alignment as described in your videos. Thanks so much.
The first thing you ate trying to achieve is time alignment between just the subs. You need to measure a sweep on the furthest sub, then same on the second sub. The delay you enter in your dsp is determined by trial and error by changing the delay on the closest sub until the energy across the whole graph is greater (positive summation)
The idea is to time align all subs with audessey off and the calibration will 'see' only one omnipresent sub once all are aligned. This is totally independent of sub to main integration where crossover frequency and delay are set after you sub calibration.
Hey, love the channel and when I get a 2nd sub later this year i'll be all over the MiniDSP guides, but out of interest is there any benefit at all to getting the miniDSP now with just the 1 sub?
Hi, I have the Yamaha RX-A4A & am curious if adjusting the 2 subs individually within the receiver would be better than adjusting both as 1 unit? I am very new to DSP capabilities & how sonic summation treats the summed pair. Curious as to just how much correction can be applied through the Yamaha web editor. Thanks
Hi Brad. Can you explain why I would remove any room EQ settings before starting this process please? I can sort of understand that for the sub but not the mains. So for me, on a Yamaha processor, as I can't find an off setting, I would set my EQ to through? Thanks in advance for any advice as in my head aligning the subs to mains that have been adjusted via YPAO makes more sense. Thanks, Justin
so doing sub crawl isnt necessary with minidsp?
no sub crawl. You have to move subs to all possible positions and just measure them with REW. Then choose the best ones and use them for further aligment with minidsp (or Audyssey).
Do I understand that correctly. For the bass response the aim is a flat curve? Better said as flat as possible?
Like in the video your aim seems to be spl 93
When time aligning, yes, the flatter the better. The reason I aim for at least 85dB is so that when EQing and adding the house curve, REW is going to end up cutting frequencies instead of boosting them, which is easier for REW to do and you won’t have to worry about overdriving the sub(s) at a certain frequency.
Hi Brad, I love your video series on minidsp and ordered my very own. One thing I'm just wondering about: is it advisable to just leave Audyssey and only EQ the subs, inputting crossovers and distances (perhaps from previous Audyssey measurements) manually into the receiver? Or is Audyssey worthwile for the speakers up to 300hz or so, in your opinion?
12:06 Why does my curve change so much after Auddyssy calibration even when I follow every step ? My Curve was so good before Auddyssy Calibration and I even purchased the App, disabled the room correction on the subwoofer and uploaded it to the AVR
Hi, might be a dumb question but i have 2 15” subs daisy chained in the front and 2 10” subs daisy chained in the back. Should I shutoff 1 front and 1 back when going through this process then at the end just spl sub volume to match listening position?
Is there any reason you can't run Audyssey before doing the sub time alignment, as long as you turn off the sub-EQ in the app afterward (or Audyssey entirely)? Everyone recommends having sub trim be -10/11ish to allow for digital headroom, but if you do all this REW stuff first, you'll end up having to change the gain knobs running Audyssey afterward in order to get that trim level correct, which will throw all your REW measurements off. Would there be an issue running the time alignment measurements with sub trim at -11?
18:26 What if you get a positive number? My alignment was 2.55 and not -2.55
I don´t get why you hit the EQ to every Sub in the Output, normally you hit the EQ in the INPUT and it adapts to all subs. Pls tell me if I´m wrong.
What´s the advantage of having the "house curve" compared to having a "flat EQ" on the Subs.
I own an Arcam AVR 550, it´s a bit complicated with the crossover stuff and having no EQ from Dirac Live on the Sub(s)
Have never seen the crossover stuff (sub to main-time-alignment)on any channel before, need to try this one, thanks man ;)
You’re not wrong, but applying the EQ to the input side instead of the output side makes adjusting certain frequencies after applying EQ a bit more complicated. It’s easier to just apply EQ to all subs on the output, then fine tune your response on the input side.
The house curve is useful if you either listen at lower than reference level or like a tad more bass especially in the 20-30Hz area. Flat is great if you’re after total accuracy in your system or if you use some type of Dynamic EQ. A well implemented house curve will not overpower your main speakers, either. It will still sound balanced but a bit of extra “kick” over flat.
@@HomeTheaterGamer Thanks for the fast response. I haven´t thought in that way, good hint tho with EQing subs alone, mostly there are still some fine hills, even after EQing.
I´m mostly not listening at reference level but the LFE-channel is normally 10 db louder, so if you still boost it more it would be like 15-20 db louder in the bass region.
I prefer having a more audiophile-flat curve or falling from sub-frequencies to super-high´s, so you have the choice of using mains alone for music or with sub and trim the sub-channel to your needs.
With thinking about crossover frequency, normally 12db/octave, you should be save with around 80 Hz. According to information from DTS they cut LFE signals at 80Hz, Dolby cuts at 120Hz.
highly appreciate your work there, keep it going ;)
The "house curve" is typically a method to compensate for lower bass levels at reduced volumes. My receiver does what it calls "THX Loudness Plus" where it dynamically boosts the bass levels as the system volume is reduced. Because of that, I let the receiver handle what amounts to a dynamic "house curve" rather than building a fixed "house curve" in the EQ. Since the EQ is applied at reference levels I just EQ for a flat response and my receiver does the rest.
Thanks!
Thank you so much! The super thanks wasn't required but much appreciated. Glad you found this series useful!
@@HomeTheaterGamer You earned it Brad!!! Thanks for your videos!! 👍
Hey Brad, I initially configured my miniDSP with my Marantz 7706. I just moved to an Anthem AVM70. Do I need to reconfigure my miniDSP again? Thx.
In theory, you shouldn’t as long as the distance and level settings in the Anthem AVM70 are the same as they were on the Marantz. I would still run some REW measurements to verify though.
Awesome. Thanks.
@Home Theater Gamer Is it just me doing something wrong here? @ 14.55 in this video you have 2 diffrent graphs showing 60hz and 80 hz. You say to unplug LR. I have now tested this 100 times but my messurements dont change what ever i do... My messurements is 100% the same on 60-80-100-110 and 120hz. With LR and without LR. Did you forget to mention some steps or do i have som faulty setup here?
Hmmm... That is interesting. I rewatched that section and the steps are there, and it should be repeatable on your setup. Something is going on there if all of your measurements are the same. Are your speakers set to small? Are you using JAVA in REW or ASIO4ALL?
So you have to align the subs to main without dynamic Eq on? Or does this only apply for those that aren’t using dynamic Eq?
Align the subs to main and get a decent response. Turn on DEQ to get house curve after or leave DEQ off and make your own curve.
Ok I have the minidsp 2x4 hd I have the power hooked to my power conditioner I have the USB into my laptop also have the umik1 plugged into my laptop I have the minidsp input 1 running to my emotiva xmc2 with my 4 subs plugged into the output side of the minidsp I have a fiber optic hdmi cable from my processor hooked to my laptop I have my rew all setup correctly my minidsp 2x4 hd plug-in downloaded connected with everything hooked up correctly I have double and triple checked but when I check ny levels and also when I try to measure I get no sound
02:00 Why is it not a good idea to work on the house curve while leaving Audyssey MultiEQ on?
Audyssey will either, 1) apply EQ changes to counter your miniDSP EQ, which is a chance to introduce distortion by the two fighting each other. 2) Or, Applying Audyssey EQ in addition to your miniDSP EQ has a great chance to introduce distortion. Ideally, you want fewer devices as possible adjusting your signal. (pick one or the other). Boosting EQ has a high chance of distortion which is why it's best to cut frequencies to achieve a flat signal.
Hi Brad, I have followed your guide I have the Onkyo RZ50 with Dirac Live I cannot adjust distances after Dirac has done its thing and don’t think I can disable EQ on the sub. So my question is Should I Minidsp REW to Eq flat or should I still house curve EQ. I did the house curved as per your guide then Dirac live EQ later I add ed Harmon Curve 4dB boost curve not sure if this is right or not. Can you assist??
Thanks for the comment and man, that is frustrating for sure. I like Dirac but I also prefer to have a manual EQ on the sub, so I get where the issues come in.
Since you can’t disable the sub EQ, I’d try and match the house curve you originally setup through my guides within Dirac Live so it’s a match to what you did on the REW side. I’d highly recommend taking measurements in REW after Dirac does it’s thing, and it may require a bit of tinkering back and forth to get it all working well together. But once you do you should never have to touch it again.
Yes sounds good, was thinking of if EQ flat in the DSP and then can use the Harmon Curve 10db or lower to give that house curve. Which would mimic the house curve I created using you guide. Would you think that would be a good way to go.
Thanks.
One thing I can confirm with the DSP I have now got rid of the boomy on women’s voices as I Billie e I had a null and to over come the null before I was over posting which resulting in the boomy of the women’s voices.
I try to make the result tangible audyssey on the computer in a file ady from the mobile to go through a program its curve harman and to transfer it again to the mobile phone at multieq app and as soon as I go to put it in me it says envelope corrupted...😞😞😞why this happening?
I can’t get my levels right, every time I think I got it right and then run a demo through the AVR, the bass is at like 50db. Very annoying
Maybe Dynamic EQ is enabled? This boosts the bass and does it quite considerably at lower listening levels.
Ju