Thrips in the Garden: Damage and Control
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- Опубликовано: 6 авг 2023
- They're small, they're fast, and they're clever - thrips make for a difficult opponent in the garden. As a pest, their damage can range from minor an cosmetic all the way up to devastating. In this video, I want to show you the signs of their presence, how to confirm them as your pest, and then what measures you can use against them. Good news: even if you remained oblivious to these little guys, the beneficial insects and mites are already on the case: pirate bugs, lacewings, predatory mites are already feeding on your thrips. Does it make sense to supplement their numbers? That depends on the severity of the damage and your tolerance for "waiting it out" until the good guys get the upper hand.
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Photo credits:
A single thrips by Katja Schulz CC BY-SA 2.0
Western flower thrips by Dave Kirkeby CC BY-SA 4.0
Chilli thrips damage by Matt Border CC BY-SA 2.0
Thrips damage on citrus by HeberM CC BY-SA 3.0
Solanum leaf thrips damage by Pl@ntNet Identify CC BY-SA 4.0
Thrips damage bell pepper by Gerald Holmes CC BY-SA 3.0 
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Detailed info, to the point and interesting ! You are a good teacher and our problem solver. Deep respect.
We choose the violent retribution avenue every time. Last week we had a spider mite infestation take off. They got chemical one the day we discovered it, they got chemical two three days later. They will get chemical three in a few days time. There is no resistance because everything is dead. It's a sad reality. I appreciate the care you take to win in a nice way.
Thank you for showing the leaf damage; my roses aren’t blooming yet but I was just trying to figure out what was wrong with the leaves. Confirmed with the yellow sticky test!
Thank you Jason. I have heard that some farmers are spreading predatory mites and pirate bugs by drones with decent success.
Laura at Garden Answer just used a Drone to cast Preditory insects last week
That's so cool!
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Thank you for this information! I hear about thrips and how damaging they are, wondered if or when I’ll get them, but now I know what to look for and how to treat them. This was very informative!
Jason you are a godsend! I had never heard of thrips but when you showed the distorted leaves, I recognized this on one of my house plants. After close inspection, I saw the tiny little things - lots of them. I’ve put yellow sticky paper on the pot, cut off all the rough looking leaves and will spray with soap. Thank you so very much for sharing your endless knowledge, I’ve learned so much from you.
Thanks so much for your encouragement and support!
Jason once again, I think you have walked in my garden! I didn’t know what was ruining my flowers until I watched your video this morning. Thrips have destroyed so many of my Dahlia’s and flowers and left me with sad/dead blooms and leaves that are lifeless and crispy. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and advice. You are someone I rely on for sound garden advice.
Great information and as usual, wonderfully presented. You have a voice that is very easy to listen to and understand. Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback and support
Its almost as if you read my mind LOL this is the first year I've dealt with thrips in such numbers and was wanting to avoid spraying my ornamentals as I finally have a surplus of pollinators and didn't want to risk harming them. Thank you so much! This is very helpful in my ongoing battle.
I'm so pleased you found it useful!
Laura of Garden Answer just had thousands of predatory mitesreleased and it worked
I’ve always wanted to see what thrips actually looks like. Thank you!!!
Most welcome!
Thank you for the detailed information! Now, I know why my dahlias look so bad, it was not me 😂. Seriously, when you showed the leaves, I was in shock! It’s almos how they look, sadly. Now, I know I need some of those beneficial mites. Thank you!
You are an excellent instructor, I have learn a lot from you, thank you. ❤
Thanks for the encouragement!
Thank you for your videos educating us on so many things I’ve been home gardening for many years and you have taught me so much since I found your channel .A big thanks🫶🏻
Thank you Jason!
Thank you for this. I made a new bed this year with only yellow and white roses and have a big issue with thrips in there, should have looked into this being a potential problem sooner
Hi Jason, I have been asking people about thrips and I’m so glad you addressed this. The last few years my Port Moody garden has been under severe attack - my roses, campanula, peonies, etc. and it’s really been devastating. I noticed the greatest damage in May. I’ll have to take your advice about the pirate bugs and the other mite as well.
Helpful and comprehensive information, thank you!
My pleasure
I think I just discovered I have a thrip problem on my roses 😮. Thank you very much for that! I always learn something from your channel…
Thanks so much for your video! It's good to have options, and the natural way is best of course!🤗
Just yesterday I put a brand name spinosad product in my Amazon cart but hadn't completed the order yet. So glad I saw your video. The pictures you showed of the brown petals and deformed buds is exactly how one (so far) of my roses looks. I dont want to get on the insecticide rotation you described so I decided to delete that product and ordered sticky cards and insecticidal soap instead. I trust your advice and timely too as this is my first year growing roses. Have been through aphids, sawflies and japanese beetles already this year and used neem oil which worked well but then started getting the deformed buds. Sheesh! Going to cut off the infested buds right now. Thank you so much!👍
I needed this here.
Have you seen Garden Answer's video: "Releasing 450,000 Predatory Mites in Our Garden"? They were having a Thrip problem, too, and chose to release predators via a large drone with Swirski Mites. The company is Terravata.
Thank you so much Jason.🌺💚🙃
My pleasure. Thanks for watching
Very informative, Jason 👏
Thanks!
We’ve been dealing with rain 3x a week on the East Coast, so thank god we’re not dealing with this issue but with other problemes such as black spots
My roses have black spot this year 😢
Very helpful. Thrips arrived at my So. Calif. roses during the drought when we couldn't water much. Last winter we got a large amount of rain, and so far this summer (knock wood), no thrips. Oh, they'll probably come but so far so good. I'm not a fan of spraying because it's difficult for me on 30 bushes, and not sure if those predatory insects would be ok in my state. Thanks for the good info.
This explains a ton about what's happening to my garden this year. Calgary's having a big year for thrips! They're wrecking all my squash blossoms.
Hopefully the local green lacewings can save a few blossoms for me so I get a squash or two.
Thank you, boss ❤👍
THANK YOU.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thrips and white fly. I never have lovely looking roses and chillies because of them. Going to see if those predetor bugs are up for sale in my country. No wonder my roses leaves still curled up after sprying, never knew those thrips are immune
Now I know ! Thank you. 😊
Great content.
In the past I had success getting rid of thrips in my greenhouse using Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew (Spinosad) but I just have not been able to fully get rid of them with it this year. They definitely become resistant fast.
I had some good luck using amblyseius cucumeris a few weeks ago, and am now in the process of starting my own mite farm to have a continual source of mites. I'm raising amblyseius swirski and neoseiulus californicus for a dual purpose spider mite and thrip preventative, along with frequent SF nematode applications for an additional thrip & fungus gnat preventative.
Wow - what an interesting project to raise your own! Props
I'm convinced that thrips took over a lot of my roses earlier this year. Just before the first flush on some of the David Austin's I saw that off leaf curl/deformed look and the buds never opened. Just as I'd see color starting on a bud it would just sort of shrivel. I was a bit aggressive with the Captain Jack's weekly and it seems to have remedied the situation.
Laura on Garden Answer had special beneficial mites dropped to take care of their thrip problem.
Thanks Jason! Im a new gardener and figuring out whats eating my plants has been tough. Aphids worked themselves out early in the season. I need to get a hold of some of these beneficial mites. Can you do a video like this talking about spider mite damage? 🙏🙏
Thanks. I have a much older video on the topic: ruclips.net/video/mI5zowOac6I/видео.html
Hi Jason. Love your channel ! Wonder if you have an opinion on nematodes sold to aid the control of thrips?
Some thrips do have a life-stage in the soil, so something like steinernema will cut their numbers. The downside in comparison to something like cucumeris is the cost - the nematodes are far more expensive to apply last I checked.
Thank you Jason! What about using chitosan for thrips? I've read online people have had success with chitosan against thrips. Also what about beneficial nematodes or endopathogenic fungi like beauveria?
Nematodes can be helpful for controlling thrips that spend part of their life cycle in the soil (not chilli thrips, though). Feedback I've heard from other growers is that the fungi treatments are not strong enough in their effect to manage a full-blown infestation. I haven't looked into the chitosan treatment.
Just the information I needed. Have these little $%&&%s in our sun room and have been spraying stuff recommended by the nursery. Cuts them way back but doesn't get rid of them entirely, so they just come back again.
That sounds about right - it's near impossible to wipe them out entirely with sprays! Best luck in your fight
Get video for a beginner like me. I now know what’s going on in my yard. I’m in zone 9b and must have a bad dose of thrips. My yard looks horrible, especially my roses and dahlias. I thought it was only leaf hoppers but now I know it’s much worse.
Hi brilliant video thank you what's your take on mealybug please
I think horticultural oil is the best recommendation
Beauveria bassiana is the best (IMO) biological agent for leaf eating insects (including thrips) along with Metarhizium sp. to kill soil larvae like maybugs (I live in Europe). And you can grow those at home if you don't afraid of Petri dishes or lucky enough to get axenic culture supplier.
Jason I am in Zone 7A Maryland. When is the best time to apply the beneficial mites? Do you have a source that you would recommend? Thank you
It varies by region - but even a quick Google "shop" search for cucumeris may give you an idea of options. The best time would be early in the infestation, so sticky cards for counting/monitoring can be really handy. But no worries if you missed their first arrival - you can take action now if warranted, and also note the approximate date for next year so you can get going earlier.
I live in the southern part of the US and struggle with thrips pretty much as long as something is growing. They are my constant companions.
I feel like biological controls are over touted though, especially for the average person. There are so many caveats to their usage. In enclosed environments, like greenhouses, predatory mites and insects can be highly effective. The winged ones can't escape and the less mobile ones have the benefit of usually very tight plant placements to move about. Temperature and humidity is another big factor that can also limit "open field" benefits. There's even a fungus that controls certain species of thrips but it's very much limited by high temps and low humidity.
Chemical control definitely is possible. Although like you said, not very practical for a home grower with a handful of plants. This year I broke down and started a spray rotation using _drumroll_ imidacloprid, spinosad and abamectin lol with some bifethrin thrown in as a tank mix with the imidacloprid. I don't like spraying but I just reached a point where they were too severe.
Thanks for sharing your experience - definitely more challenging in a warmer climate. Here I can often "ride it out" with little or no intervention
I think I see them on my lettuce but I have a lot of jumping spiders but those leaves I've been scraped off like you said and other spiders that are garden spiders that was one of them pretty web. But I know do they go on lettuce or I just next year I need to move my letters because it might be scorching Heat
I'm having a thrip and spider mite problem for the first time probably due to the unusually dry, hot weather. I ordered some Amblyseius mites which are supposed to also get the spider mites. UPS lost them so the company is sending more.
One thing I've noticed is that the type of thrip I have really go for the leaves of lemon balm which pops up everywhere. That works as sort of a trap crop. Unfortunately they love the dahlias almost as much. The flowers wilt pretty quickly. I hope the mites can take care of them.
I didn't think about the yellow sticky cards. But, I don't know if the sticky traps will catch the beneficial mites as well.
Thanks. Not so much - it seems to be the pests flying around looking for yellow leaves that are being trapping in high numbers
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm
The same with me. I only have the white Honor rose that really attracts the thrips as far as roses go, but the tomatoes, strawberry, and any other non-smooth leaf plant seems to be attracting them now that the temperature is warmer. Fortunately for me the nights are already starting to cool which is definitely keeping them from multiplying very quickly like down at the lower elevation.
On the coffee farm the thrips were impossible to control even with biological beneficials.
I just clipped the affected areas and made the best of it because here in the tropics it's a year round problem. The rainy season slows the down for a month or so and that's it because the temperature is rarely below 15C/60F unless you are above 1,000m/3,000ft elevation.
Sprays and powders are completely useless, although many people use them think they will do something, but the don't.
Unfortunately many pest control companies encourage treatment, but it is a dishonest game.
Thanks for those insights!
I've had issues with beneficial mites sticking to the sticky traps (I'm using them for fungus gnats) in a green house/container plant setting. The mites tend to love to circle around the pot edges and since the traps are touching the edge of the pot they do tend to walk into it frequently. I may remove the sticky traps initially next time when the mites are fresh and at their most active.
Thrip has ruined by dahlia garden despite chemical drenching and being prepared for them. They are worse this year in Spokane and I have given up. I now realize that I have to use beneficial mites. Here is my question as I do know which ones to use....do you recommend for the home gardener the bagged mites in sachets or the canisters with bran? And when to apply? Another question would be should I also use nematodes early in the season before I even see the thrip? thanks for your help in zone 6a eastern Wa. I am so sad for all my efforts to obtain special dahlias, even wintered over some and grew them up in early spring. I hardly even want to water my plants and cannot even bring in their blooms.
So sorry to hear it! I've generally gone with the loose bran, so I can split it up and spend some time on careful distribution to all the effected plants.
Can you let us know which yellow cards you use and how you put them on the plant. I am a novice and would appreciate a little more guidance on how to do it. Thank you!
Sure. Maybe I'll make it a video topic, but in the meantime it's really just a matter of hanging them (by twine, twist tie, whatever) into the foliage canopy of your plants. The yellow or blue color attracts the pests when they're abundant, and they stick to the surface. You come back every week or so and inspect the cards - if they're clean, it sets your mind at ease. If they have loads of thrips or other plant pests, you can start looking for signs of damage on the plant and decide according if it's worth adding beneficials or taking other measures.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you! I did see some yellow cards and some blue ones online, and I wondered which was better for thrips. Sounds like either is fine. Some of the reviews say small birds can get stuck to them, too. But it's hard to know if that's true or not. Yes, a video would be great.
I also have been having problems with thrips. Where do they overwinter in fall? Would beneficial nematodes work?
Yes, nematodes ae helpful against the stage of the lifecycle where some thrips (not chilli thrips) pupate in the soil.
In your opinion, could over fertilizing cause pests like thrips and aphids? I’ve been going a little crazy with fish emulsion this year and I’m wondering if that’s why I’m getting thrips on all my roses
Hi Jason, I have a major infestation of leaf hoppers on all my roses and I don't have access to beneficial bugs. Am thinking repeat insecticidal soap or pyrethrum spray. May I please have your thoughts?
So much pest pressure in the tropics
Another one to consider might be spinosad - it's one the safer and more natural side so far as insecticides go. Yes on the insecticidal soap!
Do I need to plant in a different area next year or is this just something that can happen anywhere
They'll find it!
Where's a good place to get the cucumerous mite in the USA?
I'm not sure about the regional suppliers, but I've even seen them listed on Amazon.
I have used polymer spray that seems to work by gluing down their eggs and kills the adults right on contact. I use the cheap version of Elmer’s glue diluted in water 😅
Hi! Do you mind giving some details like the ratio of glue to water and how and when you sprayed? This could be useful to me!
@@petramckean5041 sure! I use 1/2 cup of Elmer’s glue, next I add 1 teaspoon of cocoglycoside surfactant ( I use this because sulfate based or phosphate based anionic surfactant is toxic to leaves) or you can use any nonionic soap, then I mix until the two become a thick creamy paste. I add enough water to dissolve the paste and pour into 1 gallon of water. I shake it to homogenize it and I apply on top and bottom of leaves when the sun is setting so that it has the night to dry off and form a film. A more expensive polymer for agriculture and winter protection is Antistress 2000, or Floralife’s Crowning Glory spray. I do want to give a fair warning: some rose petals maybe discolored if sprayed under direct sun, the coating also mutes the scent of roses. It also masks the leaves from insects and fungus.
@@petramckean5041 I would also like to add that if this is the first time your roses are being treated with this, I would start off with a test spot at a lower concentration (dilute into 2 gallons) since each rose is slightly different with different thickness of leaves. As a rule, I always let new leaves mature and harden off before spraying. Spidermites like to work their from bottom to the top as the bottom gives them more protection.
We had thrips on our rose farm this year and used insecticidal soap and dead heading. Seemed to solve it completely. But I’m not sure if they just went out of season in the later summer.
Could you talk more about the lifecycle of this pest?
Timing can have a lot to do with it. We tend to have about a month in the summer where the temps are higher and they roll through our rose field. As the temps subside the predators are also beginning to catch up. As mentioned by other commentors, this is not a certainty in warmer climates where the higher temps give thrips the upper hand over a much longer period.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thanks!
HI,can you make a video of how to ferterlize POLYANTHA ROSE?i am really confused with all the bulbs showing up in different stages.(what i do with normal rose is use universal when no bulb. and when there's bulb showing up, i use P.and when first bulb show color. i stop all the ferterlizer until no more bulb. )but i notice with POLYANTHA ROSE , most of my bulbs are not good size,only the first open bulb is good size.
Thanks - polyantha roses are really quite like floribundas and other modern roses. It can make a difference if you're growing in the ground or a container. In a container, I like something like a 16-10-10 slow release (rate as directed on package). In soil I tend to go with more organic amendments like alfalfa pellets or manure. You can also top up with a liquid feed of something like fish fertilizer for a boost in nitrogen.
it's in the ground.
am i allow to use ferterlizer when the bulbs show color?because i know it will shorter the number of blooming days of the ROSE.but some bulbs have color some just start as a mini bulb ,then i don't know what to do.@@FraserValleyRoseFarm
The timing is not critical - adding fertilizer or organic matter to the soil is a matter of feeding the soil microbes, which then over the long term make the nutrients available to the roots. That'll support a healthy plant. Healthy plant = better flowering. Don't worry about the stage of the flower buds.
Hi
I want to grow a double shade rose. There are so many fake videos of propagation. Last season i tried this but didn't get the results. What should I do now? 🥺
Do you have any video on rose propagation sir? A proper guide and techniques.
Sure. Have a look at this one: ruclips.net/video/4FicmVqT_a4/видео.html
Pirate bugs bite humans. Hard to spend time outside when they are around. Maybe the mites would be a better idea.
I keep getting them on my indoor houseplants :( once you get them they're almost impossible to completely get rid of, they just keep coming back and it's so much work keeping on top of them so they don't destroy your plants altogether...sigh...
Yes, much more difficult indoors (or even in greenhouses) than out in nature where they have loads of predators. The cucumeris mite is still a good option indoors if you can find a handy supply.
I tried Swirskii mites this spring for the first time - I suspect they did work, but they need a constant supply of things to feed on or they die out. So as soon as their population dwindled I had a thrips boom again (currently in it now). I have a feeling you'd have to have a regular addition of mites every couple of months ad infinitum to solve the issue, which gets expensive and they don't ship them in the winter months. All I can think to do at this point is check every leaf on all of my 100 or so plants every 2 days and hopefully eventually I'll kill them all. Such a bummer! I hope you've had success in your situation - I had never heard of thrips until last year, and now everyone seems to be talking about them. Are they spreading/growing or just more awareness do you think?
I'm quite sure it's a matter of awareness - they've been a serious concern in agriculture all along
makes sense! thanks for your replies ☺
this is where some of the environmentally friendly (eco) pesticides can be problematic. they generally arent as effective, and you end up spending entire season spraying and not getting on top of controlling a pest. it's good to have less toxic alternatives, but only if they are effective. maintaining a population of a pest, once they've become a problem, usually ends up in unusable crops, like for instance cabbages that look like been shot with a shotgun.
There are pros and cons to each approach. Even with the initially more effective chemical methods, pests like thrips are not entirely wiped out, and it leads to strong selection pressure for resistance. I recently looked up the emerging resistance to Orthene on cotton thrips: it was seen as the best control, but it's started now to become progressively less effective from repeated application. That's not something that happens with biological controls, but they have their own application issues. I won't judge other growers for how they manage the problem, but I know applying toxic chemicals isn't for me for a variety of reasons.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm : well, that's where detail and up-to-date research matters on any compound, on a one by one basis. certainly is complicated. any compound, natural or synthetic, can be problematic or toxic. that's why i no longer believe in this human invented distinction to signify much of anything. we've been inadvertantly breeding out pest resistance, by selecting more showy and more edible crops, that we want to produce in a scale and in places where they dont naturally grow by themselves in abundance. the universe/nature has no special plan or balancing acts with specific goal.
the most pest/disease resistant roses are original plants that nobody would plant in their garden. copper, arsenic, sulfur, phosphorous, all occur naturally in some places and are deadly in those (natural) concentrations. animal manures are high in sodium. it's a balancing act on our part. there's too much organic good sounding stuff, but unfortunatelly not backed by sound science. but since i can easily get rid of weeds by regularly weeding, as i dont have a commercial farm, i dont spray any weed killing chemicals.
the funny story is how we have minimum size specified for catching fish, which ironically is making fish populations evolve to smaller growing fish, as undersized mature fish start to dominate the gene pool. i dont have an answer to fix that, and i stick to the minimum size rules, despite their shortcomings.
They destroyed my cannibis last year
That's rough - another crop they really impact in a bad way
Bio weapons of predators
I read that blue sticky cards are better for thrips.