I am planning to replace the rear main seal of my 2gm20f. You've shown me the way to dismantle the gearbox, flex plate, fly wheel and oil seal. Thank you 👍😁
Amazing Job. Yanmar Engines are tough little beasts and that should give good service in a small sailing yacht. I hope none of the water from the exhaust splashed into the slots in the bell housing.
Wow just look at it now . This motor come back from junk to a running pice of art . Nice job still like to find one of a Cool project of mine and again Nice job ! Thanks for the invite Link.
Good reparation 👌👌 Did you change primery fuel filter from the engine? And Did you replace magmesium anode from refrigeration system? Best regards from Seville!
Thanks for watching! Yes the primary fuel filter element was changed off camera. The three zinc anodes were removed, cleaned and found to still be in good condition. If you have not already seen it, here is a link for part 1: ruclips.net/video/5fSWkzVpU-8/видео.html
If there was water in the crankcase, there is likely rust on the cylinder walls and the bearings are suspect. How do you know the engine internal components are not damaged? It could run for days or weeks, then die or start burning excessive oil, etc.
Thanks for watching! There was a layer of oil on top of the water that protected the bottom end. Undoubtedly there was rust on the cylinder walls but not enough to lower compression. Oil pressure is still high, indicating the bearings are fine.
The flex plate (dampner plate with springs) bolts to the flywheel and the transmission splines are inserted into that plate. The bolts on the flywheel ensure proper alignment and the transmission input shaft is rotated until it fits into the flex plate.
@@FixAndForget On a car, you use a "clutch alignment tool" to get the splines of the flex plate (I would call it a damper plate in this case) to line up (concentric) with them pilot bearing. The clutch must be inside the transmission. Could be a dog clutch, could be a cone clutch.
@@jackpatteeuw9244 Yes you are absolutely right. I misread your initial question. There is a forward and reverse clutch inside the transmission, therefore no alignment is necessary with the flywheel. Certainly much easier than an automotive application! Thanks for clarifying!
I'm planning to replace the Rear Main Seal on water. I've at best 2" clearance when prop shaft & coupling is pushed back. Is it enough for the gearbox to decouple from engine? Any idea? At 11.09 it shows the spine shaft protrude about 1" to 1_1/2". Am I correct?
@@FixAndForget noted. Will give it a try and see. If it doesn't work out, will fit back and re-work the plan. Have a small window of opportunity for this piece of work. Will revert with results. Thanks for feedback 😁👍
@Ken Good luck! My concern is if you do get the engine decoupled will you have enough space to get the flex plate and flywheel off. In most applications it isn't very hard to pull the engine forward. In the case of this engine, I used 4x4 blocks to extend the stringers the engine was mounted to and a chain puller rigged to the galley table.
Hi Leric, if you're sure the issue is timing, you probably want to look into getting service data for the engine. There's a chance you might find it online for free. If you're in a real pinch, look for a timing window on the pump housing and after removing it, spin the motor 360 by hand and look to see if the match marks are aligned. Never rotate the engine with the pump removed unless you are sure you can re-time it. Cheers!
That's not a restoration a restoration means you tear it down and over haul it and replace all worn parts and gaskets and so forth what you actually did is the equivalent of putting makeup on a pig
Thanks for watching! All worn parts were replaced. Inspection of the engine internals showed no signs of damage or wear. The engine has approximately 400 hours on it and will have no issues making through its expected service life. Your definition of restoration is exactly what was carried out here. Cheers!
I'm busy doing the same engine up as yours, but it won't start, smokes and want to fire but won't kick over any ideas? Maybe my injector timing is 180' out? But I have no idea how to set it? Any help would be great!! Leric, knysna South Africa
@@lerichurn5297 Hi Leric! It's unlikely the timing is 180 out since that is only adjusted with the injector pump removed. First test would be to crack open the injector lines at the injectors and spin the engine over with the starter and decompression levers engaged. Hold the throttle wide open and verify fuel is reaching all injectors. If there isn't fuel to all injectors the pump fuel cutoff is stuck on or one/multiple plungers are stuck. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!
Thanks for your response Asher, I will give it a go. I will message you when I eventually get it going. I broke it right down to the last bolt and nut. Thanks again for your help. Cheers Leric
I am still amazed that engine works. Great work!
Thank you! I am also amazed at how well it all turned out. Thanks for watching!
That is one tough engine ! I never thought you would be able to save the starter let alone the rest of the engine !
@@jackpatteeuw9244 You and me both. It was quite the surprise. Thanks for watching!
Pretty darn fantastic!
Thank you!
Good guide for what to look for in an old engine
Thanks Paul, I appreciate the kind words!
I am planning to replace the rear main seal of my 2gm20f. You've shown me the way to dismantle the gearbox, flex plate, fly wheel and oil seal. Thank you 👍😁
No problem it's an easy task just don't break any bolts! Thanks for watching & good luck.
Amazing Job. Yanmar Engines are tough little beasts and that should give good service in a small sailing yacht. I hope none of the water from the exhaust splashed into the slots in the bell housing.
Thanks for watching! The motor is still doing great. If you haven't seen part one check it out below:
ruclips.net/video/5fSWkzVpU-8/видео.html
Wow just look at it now . This motor come back from junk to a running pice of art . Nice job still like to find one of a Cool project of mine and again Nice job ! Thanks for the invite Link.
Anytime, thanks for watching and the kind words!
Looks to be running well! Gives me hope for my neglected yanmar
Let me know if you have any questions with yours, I'll try my best to help out.
@@FixAndForget Much appreciated!
Very good work. I have the same engine to repair, so your videos helped me very much. Thanks million, man!!! Kind regards from Germany! Sascha
Anytime my friend, thanks for all the kind words!!
Well done ! Nice pedicure too.
Hi Andre, thanks for watching and the kind words!
great job
Thank you!
Good reparation 👌👌
Did you change primery fuel filter from the engine?
And Did you replace magmesium anode from refrigeration system?
Best regards from Seville!
Thanks for watching! Yes the primary fuel filter element was changed off camera. The three zinc anodes were removed, cleaned and found to still be in good condition.
If you have not already seen it, here is a link for part 1: ruclips.net/video/5fSWkzVpU-8/видео.html
If there was water in the crankcase, there is likely rust on the cylinder walls and the bearings are suspect. How do you know the engine internal components are not damaged? It could run for days or weeks, then die or start burning excessive oil, etc.
Thanks for watching! There was a layer of oil on top of the water that protected the bottom end. Undoubtedly there was rust on the cylinder walls but not enough to lower compression. Oil pressure is still high, indicating the bearings are fine.
Amazing restoration job! Where did you learn all these skills - do you do this for work or self-taught?
Thank you for watching and the kind words! Combination of being self taught and being a merchant marine & Navy officer.
Also, if you have not already seen it, here is a link for part 1.
ruclips.net/video/5fSWkzVpU-8/видео.html
Question, should I drain out the crankcase oil before removing the rear main seal?
Not required unless the engine is at an angle that would put the oil at or above the level of the seal.
How did you align the clutch disc with engine crankshaft so that the transmission shaft aligned ?
The flex plate (dampner plate with springs) bolts to the flywheel and the transmission splines are inserted into that plate. The bolts on the flywheel ensure proper alignment and the transmission input shaft is rotated until it fits into the flex plate.
@@FixAndForget On a car, you use a "clutch alignment tool" to get the splines of the flex plate (I would call it a damper plate in this case) to line up (concentric) with them pilot bearing. The clutch must be inside the transmission. Could be a dog clutch, could be a cone clutch.
Cone clutch inside transmission (Very smooth shifting !)
@@jackpatteeuw9244 Yes you are absolutely right. I misread your initial question. There is a forward and reverse clutch inside the transmission, therefore no alignment is necessary with the flywheel. Certainly much easier than an automotive application! Thanks for clarifying!
I'm planning to replace the Rear Main Seal on water. I've at best 2" clearance when prop shaft & coupling is pushed back. Is it enough for the gearbox to decouple from engine? Any idea?
At 11.09 it shows the spine shaft protrude about 1" to 1_1/2". Am I correct?
Doesn't sound like that is enough room to work. You will most likely have to pull the engine forward. Good luck
@@FixAndForget noted. Will give it a try and see. If it doesn't work out, will fit back and re-work the plan. Have a small window of opportunity for this piece of work. Will revert with results. Thanks for feedback 😁👍
@Ken Good luck! My concern is if you do get the engine decoupled will you have enough space to get the flex plate and flywheel off. In most applications it isn't very hard to pull the engine forward. In the case of this engine, I used 4x4 blocks to extend the stringers the engine was mounted to and a chain puller rigged to the galley table.
@@FixAndForget noted. Thanks for the tips 👍😁
👍👍
Thanks for watching!
Replace the rings
Doesn't need it thanks for watching!
Great job! I have done the same thing on mine, any ideas how I can set my injector pump timing?
Leric from Knysna yacht club South Africa
Hi Leric, if you're sure the issue is timing, you probably want to look into getting service data for the engine. There's a chance you might find it online for free. If you're in a real pinch, look for a timing window on the pump housing and after removing it, spin the motor 360 by hand and look to see if the match marks are aligned. Never rotate the engine with the pump removed unless you are sure you can re-time it. Cheers!
how much the engine
$3,500 for the engine & transmission.
k, i'll put it in the back of my beetle , tnx :)
Thanks for watching! You should go with an German air-cooled Hatz or Deutz it would be more "authentic" lol
That's not a restoration a restoration means you tear it down and over haul it and replace all worn parts and gaskets and so forth what you actually did is the equivalent of putting makeup on a pig
Thanks for watching! All worn parts were replaced. Inspection of the engine internals showed no signs of damage or wear. The engine has approximately 400 hours on it and will have no issues making through its expected service life. Your definition of restoration is exactly what was carried out here. Cheers!
I'm busy doing the same engine up as yours, but it won't start, smokes and want to fire but won't kick over any ideas? Maybe my injector timing is 180' out? But I have no idea how to set it? Any help would be great!! Leric, knysna South Africa
@@lerichurn5297 Hi Leric! It's unlikely the timing is 180 out since that is only adjusted with the injector pump removed. First test would be to crack open the injector lines at the injectors and spin the engine over with the starter and decompression levers engaged. Hold the throttle wide open and verify fuel is reaching all injectors. If there isn't fuel to all injectors the pump fuel cutoff is stuck on or one/multiple plungers are stuck. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!
Thanks for your response Asher, I will give it a go. I will message you when I eventually get it going. I broke it right down to the last bolt and nut. Thanks again for your help. Cheers Leric
Hi Asher, got it running, sound awesome, injector timming was out 180' thanks for your and input, cheers Leric, knysna