I'm building mine with the same servo just because I had it laying around an a spektrum 2050 combo out of a stock kraton. For 150 it'll be up and running and I'm pretty stoked. Got my exb during the holidays as well on sale !
I'm going even cheaper than that. I was able to get the EXB pre-ordered on amain for 439, got a blx200 for $75, used Castle motor out of a HPI Savage for 30 bucks and a reefs servo for 40 bucks. I think $585 is a pretty sweet deal for what I'll have in it.
M2C racing makes great wheel hex/extender combos, your wheel will not falls off. Plus always Blue Lock tight the wheel screws. BTW how do you expect a 4s to keep up with a 6S with a bigger spur???
I just bought the Kraton EXB a couple of days ago. Waiting for it to get here. Im going to put the Castle Mamba Monster X 8s ESC and the 1717-1650kv motor combo. Im only going to run it on 6s even if it is a 8s capable system. Im not sure what servo im gonna put in it yet. I dont have to worry about budget friendly electronics. I would prefer something like a 50 kg servo.
@@RCKnockout Yeah, hopefully. So far arrma products have been treating me poorly. I have an Arrma Outcast 8s and Typhon 3s and havent had anything but issues so far with them. I havent used the outcast since september as ive gotten tired of fixing it.
@@RCKnockout I also just remembered, i have a Savox 2290 servo laying around that im not using for any other RCs that will be just right for the Kraton. Its 902.7 ounce at 8.4 volts and a transit speed of .11.
@@SebastianLong I understand your frustrations…..I still haven’t gotten my EXB diff figured out….I haven’t had any issue with my Infraction yet so that’s a plus….I don’t use it a ton though
@@RCKnockout That sucks. The reason i bought the Outcast 8s was so i could retire the rarest RC i own while its still in decent shape, the Losi LST 3XLE. The Outcast cant light a candle to the durability of the 3X. Hopefully the EXB will finally allow me to retire the 3X, at least i hope so. The 3X is tons of fun and only ever breaks 2 parts, shock rod ends and a screw in the steering bellcrank. Its got T-Bone racing bumpers and skidplate and an indestructible body. The Typhon, well first run slipper clutch came loose, 2nd run i broke a shock rod end and lost a spring. Havent fixed it yet and honestly probably wont fix it till next year. The shock rod end is hanging out in the open where anything can hit it. Im gonna have to build a bracket that encloses the shock rod end so it wont break off again. The Outcast, well im not even going to get into all the problems ive had with it. Its been sitting on the shelf since September with the rear diff pulled out of it. The spider gears inside the diff broke into little bits and i basically have no intention of fixing it at this point.
If he do the rear diff will never hold no matter what watch videos on it just fully upgrade a v4 kraton like i did 8 months hard bashing no breaks im not buy this its trash
Really dosen't need and stupid bc your already going fast as possible with 6s , even 6s you need to do alot tuning to use all the power, you never c a 8s kraton faster than 6s unless it has speed tires and tuned for speed runs
Try the lsd diff. It may work out ok. Starting with grinding is always bad. That's 1 thing I think Horizon still hasn't addressed for people that want a normal diff instead of lsd. Great job with the comparison.
I like how u said move the temp gun around the esc and motor to get a correct reading not every body dose that they just point and say whatever rq but thank u bro.
Been in the rc game since 1984, never use locker. Only rear wheel drift only. I found white the arrmas, tearing up wheel hexes, I use blue and red lock tight mix. That works great and will come off without heating. But it takes some beef to get it off. FYI. Always keep extra set of wheels and wheel nuts. Just in case. All my traxxas cars never lost a tire lol! But I’m a arrma and traxxas fanboy. I wouldn’t personally buy this rig but great video!!!!!!
I might have said it’s equivalent to a Max 8 I meant a EZRun 150 but you’re right it’s basically the same as a quickrun 150a but with less programmable settings
Is the 160a spektrum 8s ready. I have stock tallion what's been great fun but now want something different. I am seriously thinking exb. Was considering traxxas xmax. But after seeing reviews on exb my heads been turned. from uk. Ah have to pay more for stuff over the pond. Peace out bruv
ian hearnden personally I would go with an Xmaxx all day long. It’s been out soo long that they have all the kinks worked out. Also Traxxas has better tech support. You can actually get ahold of parts for it too. I’ve had nothing but issues with my EXB and horizon hasn’t made things right yet. They claim to be sending me an lsd rear diff to put in the rear of my EXB but it’s on back order. It was expected to show up in late August still not here now. I’ve been extremely disappointed in Arrma. Someone at their factory was putting rear diffs together incorrectly and unfortunately I got one of those. The least they could do is try to make things right. They haven’t. They just left me hanging.
@@RCKnockout thanks for reply. Sorry to hear you have difficulty with horizon. May well go for xmax. I've had real difficulties with a company hear called nitrotek. They been utter arse holes. So don't want to go through that again. Kevin Talbot raves about the xmax and parts are cheap. Peace out
ian hearnden I have a bunch Xmaxx videos if you wanna check them out including upgrade videos. It’s not a perfect rc but it’s way better than my Kraton EXB so far. And you’re right parts are much cheaper than any of the Arrma parts are
Thats not a rebranded max 8. It is a rebranded hobbywing quicrun bl150. Also you could have gotten a max8 combo with 2200kv hobbywing motor for same price you paid. Like the exb, just got mine and currently building. I also got shims with my truck as extras. Most bashers tune their difficulty regardless and correct setup is key. I think stock pinion is 12t so your boy was geared 3 teeth under you.
Please don’t tell me you were surprised when spinning that fast with a locked diff caused an issue haha. How was it being spooled otherwise? I can see advantages! About to assemble my EXB in just a bit.
Great video,,,,,I was thinking about spooling my diff too,,,after seeing your damage it caused. I’m not going to do it,,,it’ll just makes things worse,,,,I reshimmed my rear diff,,,if that doesn’t work I guess I’ll just wait for my rear diff from armma,,,I have other rigs I can run in the meantime,,,,,totally disappointed in armma because of this issue,,,,thanks,,,🇺🇸👈
James George I understand the frustration. I’m still waiting to receive my new lsd diff from Arrma. They originally said it should be in stock and ready to ship by the end of August. No sign of it yet. I was Pretty sure it wasn’t gonna show up by the end of August anyway lol 😂
You get what you pay for though. Personally I run spektrum 150amp firma esc and spektrum 2200 kv motor with an 18 tooth pinion and it runs very nice and very cool for 199 bucks off amain hobbies. Good luck on ur build bud. I’d say stay away from surpass stuff. Really is junk. Better off going with arrma electronics
@@MrMikebeben currently I got the Max6 and 1650kv combo. But still I wanna find out how it does with the Surpass Hobby system. I will share the video soon!
Change out the factory pinion bearings in rear end and the 2 carrier bearings arrmas factory bearings are sloppy.avid rc makes awesome bearings and has a kit to change every bearing in that truck
Thanks for the info……I actually ended up swapping everything over to v5 diffs…..I don’t think I’ve had issues with the bearings themselves though….just the slop in the diff pinions
@@RCKnockout i have a older talion and i went 2 sets of rear gears before i realized the bearings were garbage and from what iv seen and read they havent gotten much better on the bearings anyway
@@RCKnockout no i didnt run them until they exploded but damn close but once i changed to the avid bearings i beat the hell outta that truck for the last 2 years and its now getting to wear it needs a fresh set of diff bearings in the rear
@@dustinflatt5504 I gotcha……yeah bearings do start to get some play in them after awhile….I’m not very good at replacing them on my rigs though……not until they explode anyway lol 😂
Cool comparison vid You should shoegoo and sheet rock tape your body it will last a lot longer bro I absolutely love the EXB Kraton Definitely one of my favorite bashers and its pretty dang good on the track from what I've seen Sadly I don't own one I'm seriously thinking about getting one though Nice races Keep this vids coming 🔥👍✌️
Thanks man! Yeah I should of shoe-goo and drywall taped the body….this body is basically trash at this point….unfortunately my experience with the EXB since filming this video hasn’t been great…nothing but diff issues and breakages every time I’ve taken it out….it’s super fun when it works but it’s not reliable…I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to open up the diffs and reshim or replace gears
@@RCKnockout I’m just curious, about the batteries. The Castle system has smaller 5200mah C? Lipos VS the 8000mah 50C Lipos. Either way both systems are good, for those Trucks
The new kratons only had one battery guys its not even run in. It takes them about 5 packs to loosen up and really go. Elija s car will get faster and faster. Good video but no point in that race arun in car vs not run in car wont stand a chance Do it again for us after Elijas cars had a half a dozen packs thru it guys. so we can enjoy some more action
Mine only had one or two pack through it at this point. I found out later that Elijah had his torque setting turned down so it wouldn’t wheelie as much when he was launching. That’s why his didn’t look as impressive as it probably should have. We will have to do another race at some point. His Castle motor burned up though so his is still out of commission
KRYPTONITE LEGACY you’re right. He told me he had his punch level turned down so it wouldn’t wheelie. He turned his up now. They seem very similar now. We might have to do another race
Plastic wheels.. don't run lock diffs nor a higher punch settings at full 6s power. Get some M2C +2 double wheel nut hubs. Look into pinning your wheels. (hack)
@@RCKnockout just saying... In my Mojave. Vitavon (bigger output bearing size) is best but I picked up 2 Integy billet cases (stock bearing size) for the price of one Vita. The shimming though is unreal on Integy. Also when all finished and about to put the cover on diff, take some shoe goo and smear it around where the bearings touches the cover.. takes up some slop in the case. (Integy😑) I took to shimming the outer bearings and shimming the diff inside the case to solve the play issues. It's all about the play between the ring gear and input gear (both can be shimmed if needed). I'm just tired of destroying gears and am very close to sorting it all out. Tight gearbox is where it's at.. checking after every run.
Now I've moved on to M2C 6lug set up and it's the only reason I'm still able to run my custom Arrma Mojave with stock wheels tires. (Which I love, but they wear down so quickly😭 at $25 each!)
Locking the rear diff is a band aid to keep the EXB from sitting on the bench. Just causes other problems. Arma screwed the EXB launch up. They should give full refunds to anyone who wants one.
Cheddar Treez I don’t think I’ll buy any new release product from Arrma again. I’ll probably buy something in the future from them but only once the kinks are worked out and there is proper parts support in place
I pretty much never buy RTR's for several reasons. The few times I have I always do a 100% tear down to make sure everything is correct, gear mesh, my own diff oils etc, and rebuild with new electronics and whatever upgrades I have. After 35+ years of building RC's, I havent found a single RTR that didnt need several upgrades to get close to the quality I want.
Why you run Dean's plugs still those things rob power,
I don’t run them anymore
I'm building mine with the same servo just because I had it laying around an a spektrum 2050 combo out of a stock kraton. For 150 it'll be up and running and I'm pretty stoked. Got my exb during the holidays as well on sale !
Awesome man! Hopefully you have good luck with it!! 👍😉
I'm going even cheaper than that. I was able to get the EXB pre-ordered on amain for 439, got a blx200 for $75, used Castle motor out of a HPI Savage for 30 bucks and a reefs servo for 40 bucks. I think $585 is a pretty sweet deal for what I'll have in it.
Do RC sounds like a real nice budget build!
How did it turn out DoRC?
@@surfside75 it was good. I've actually sold it now but I enjoyed it while I had it
The redcat esc you got is sold by hobbywing direct for $99. It’s the 8bl150 esc.
The redcat ESC is a quicrun 150a, not a max 8. I believe the Arrma BLX185 is also a quicrun, but not sure.
You might be right about that. I do know for sure it is a rebranded Hobbywing product
Gearing makes such a huge difference in these! I’ll be putting in a max 6 1650kv combo with an 18 tooth pinion. Should be fun!
Nice man! It should be a ton of fun 😎
Hey, do you guys think I’ll need a heat sink and fan for the max8 g2 combo? 😅 With the stock pinion?
Probably not with the stock pinion gear
@@RCKnockout with a 15 tooth?
@@JabbieYT yeah I run mine without a fan and that’s with stock Spektrum electronics
M2C racing makes great wheel hex/extender combos, your wheel will not falls off. Plus always Blue Lock tight the wheel screws. BTW how do you expect a 4s to keep up with a 6S with a bigger spur???
Thanks for the tip! They’re both 6S though so I’m not sure what you’re referring to?
I just bought the Kraton EXB a couple of days ago. Waiting for it to get here. Im going to put the Castle Mamba Monster X 8s ESC and the 1717-1650kv motor combo. Im only going to run it on 6s even if it is a 8s capable system. Im not sure what servo im gonna put in it yet. I dont have to worry about budget friendly electronics. I would prefer something like a 50 kg servo.
Best of luck man! Hopefully you don’t have any issues with yours 🤞
@@RCKnockout Yeah, hopefully. So far arrma products have been treating me poorly. I have an Arrma Outcast 8s and Typhon 3s and havent had anything but issues so far with them. I havent used the outcast since september as ive gotten tired of fixing it.
@@RCKnockout I also just remembered, i have a Savox 2290 servo laying around that im not using for any other RCs that will be just right for the Kraton. Its 902.7 ounce at 8.4 volts and a transit speed of .11.
@@SebastianLong I understand your frustrations…..I still haven’t gotten my EXB diff figured out….I haven’t had any issue with my Infraction yet so that’s a plus….I don’t use it a ton though
@@RCKnockout That sucks. The reason i bought the Outcast 8s was so i could retire the rarest RC i own while its still in decent shape, the Losi LST 3XLE. The Outcast cant light a candle to the durability of the 3X. Hopefully the EXB will finally allow me to retire the 3X, at least i hope so. The 3X is tons of fun and only ever breaks 2 parts, shock rod ends and a screw in the steering bellcrank. Its got T-Bone racing bumpers and skidplate and an indestructible body. The Typhon, well first run slipper clutch came loose, 2nd run i broke a shock rod end and lost a spring. Havent fixed it yet and honestly probably wont fix it till next year. The shock rod end is hanging out in the open where anything can hit it. Im gonna have to build a bracket that encloses the shock rod end so it wont break off again. The Outcast, well im not even going to get into all the problems ive had with it. Its been sitting on the shelf since September with the rear diff pulled out of it. The spider gears inside the diff broke into little bits and i basically have no intention of fixing it at this point.
Finally someone who's not over powering these trucks good to see
Thanks! Elijah wants to run his on 8s now though lol 😂
If he do the rear diff will never hold no matter what watch videos on it just fully upgrade a v4 kraton like i did 8 months hard bashing no breaks im not buy this its trash
RC 4Life yeah he’ll find that out the hard way if he does it
Really dosen't need and stupid bc your already going fast as possible with 6s , even 6s you need to do alot tuning to use all the power, you never c a 8s kraton faster than 6s unless it has speed tires and tuned for speed runs
Paul Clancy yeah I think you’re right. The tires are definitely the limiting factor
Try the lsd diff. It may work out ok. Starting with grinding is always bad. That's 1 thing I think Horizon still hasn't addressed for people that want a normal diff instead of lsd. Great job with the comparison.
Thank you! Arrma is supposedly sending me an lsd for the rear. Hopefully anyway 🤞
I had plans to buy a 6s kraton, then I randomly came across a brand new 8s kraton on offer up for 720. And Bought it. :)
Sounds like a good deal! 👍😉
I like how u said move the temp gun around the esc and motor to get a correct reading not every body dose that they just point and say whatever rq but thank u bro.
No problem 😉
Been in the rc game since 1984, never use locker. Only rear wheel drift only. I found white the arrmas, tearing up wheel hexes, I use blue and red lock tight mix. That works great and will come off without heating. But it takes some beef to get it off. FYI. Always keep extra set of wheels and wheel nuts. Just in case. All my traxxas cars never lost a tire lol! But I’m a arrma and traxxas fanboy. I wouldn’t personally buy this rig but great video!!!!!!
SpeedSyko thanks 😊. Yeah I kinda learned the hard way why it’s not a good idea to run a locker lol 😂
Great video. Btw those arrma esc is compatible with hw quickrun 150a..
I might have said it’s equivalent to a Max 8 I meant a EZRun 150 but you’re right it’s basically the same as a quickrun 150a but with less programmable settings
Should have put the damaged wheel on the other side. Then putting power on would be a tightening action.
It is what it is. I’ve put on a new set of wheels since then. Hopefully I don’t strip the wheel hexes out of those! 🤞
@@RCKnockout They only round off if you don't tighten them properly in the first place. We all learn the hard way. 😊
@@51im I feel like they were pretty tight. I shoulda threadlocked them
Why didnt you go with 8s?
Cause it’s overkill. I’d never be able to get that power to the ground on 8s
Is the 160a spektrum 8s ready. I have stock tallion what's been great fun but now want something different. I am seriously thinking exb. Was considering traxxas xmax. But after seeing reviews on exb my heads been turned. from uk. Ah have to pay more for stuff over the pond. Peace out bruv
ian hearnden personally I would go with an Xmaxx all day long. It’s been out soo long that they have all the kinks worked out. Also Traxxas has better tech support. You can actually get ahold of parts for it too. I’ve had nothing but issues with my EXB and horizon hasn’t made things right yet. They claim to be sending me an lsd rear diff to put in the rear of my EXB but it’s on back order. It was expected to show up in late August still not here now. I’ve been extremely disappointed in Arrma. Someone at their factory was putting rear diffs together incorrectly and unfortunately I got one of those. The least they could do is try to make things right. They haven’t. They just left me hanging.
@@RCKnockout thanks for reply. Sorry to hear you have difficulty with horizon. May well go for xmax. I've had real difficulties with a company hear called nitrotek. They been utter arse holes. So don't want to go through that again. Kevin Talbot raves about the xmax and parts are cheap. Peace out
ian hearnden I have a bunch Xmaxx videos if you wanna check them out including upgrade videos. It’s not a perfect rc but it’s way better than my Kraton EXB so far. And you’re right parts are much cheaper than any of the Arrma parts are
Thats not a rebranded max 8. It is a rebranded hobbywing quicrun bl150. Also you could have gotten a max8 combo with 2200kv hobbywing motor for same price you paid. Like the exb, just got mine and currently building. I also got shims with my truck as extras. Most bashers tune their difficulty regardless and correct setup is key. I think stock pinion is 12t so your boy was geared 3 teeth under you.
Thanks. I’ve been corrected on that already. I think his is 14t mines 15t pinion
Does your friend tell you you talk ahlot 😂😂😂😂😂lucky man and some good friends. Great vid Chatty Matty 👊😀
He hasn’t lol 😂
Thanks man!
Please don’t tell me you were surprised when spinning that fast with a locked diff caused an issue haha. How was it being spooled otherwise? I can see advantages!
About to assemble my EXB in just a bit.
Yeah it was fine aside from breaking on me lol 😂…..didn’t corner as well either
great vid 1 new sub for you
Great video,,,,,I was thinking about spooling my diff too,,,after seeing your damage it caused. I’m not going to do it,,,it’ll just makes things worse,,,,I reshimmed my rear diff,,,if that doesn’t work I guess I’ll just wait for my rear diff from armma,,,I have other rigs I can run in the meantime,,,,,totally disappointed in armma because of this issue,,,,thanks,,,🇺🇸👈
James George I understand the frustration. I’m still waiting to receive my new lsd diff from Arrma. They originally said it should be in stock and ready to ship by the end of August. No sign of it yet. I was Pretty sure it wasn’t gonna show up by the end of August anyway lol 😂
Did your diff issues get squared away?
Yes,,finally....I transformed the lcd diff to an open diff,,,,fixed my problem....think about doing the front diff as well.....😊
Great video 👍👍
Thanks 😊
Nice comparison! I am planning to make a budget version of that. With surpass 150a esc and 2200kv motor. Cheap ones
Nice! I try not to spend too much on electronics as well. Hopefully it will be a reliable budget build! 😊
You get what you pay for though. Personally I run spektrum 150amp firma esc and spektrum 2200 kv motor with an 18 tooth pinion and it runs very nice and very cool for 199 bucks off amain hobbies. Good luck on ur build bud. I’d say stay away from surpass stuff. Really is junk. Better off going with arrma electronics
@@MrMikebeben currently I got the Max6 and 1650kv combo. But still I wanna find out how it does with the Surpass Hobby system. I will share the video soon!
@@MrMikebeben I’ve got a surpass hobby motor in my Slash. It’s worked great for me so far
Hi there man. Here's my version of budget build. Thank you.
ruclips.net/video/kgCeOoGsqA8/видео.html
Really? A series adapter AND traxxas connector adaptors. So much power loss.
Totally correct , I cringed when I saw that and the Dean's connection touts on the other tc
Cousins and brothers at the same time
4s vs 6s?
NICE THE LYRICAL both were on 6s
Change out the factory pinion bearings in rear end and the 2 carrier bearings arrmas factory bearings are sloppy.avid rc makes awesome bearings and has a kit to change every bearing in that truck
Thanks for the info……I actually ended up swapping everything over to v5 diffs…..I don’t think I’ve had issues with the bearings themselves though….just the slop in the diff pinions
@@RCKnockout i have a older talion and i went 2 sets of rear gears before i realized the bearings were garbage and from what iv seen and read they havent gotten much better on the bearings anyway
@@dustinflatt5504 did the bearings actually fall apart on you then?
@@RCKnockout no i didnt run them until they exploded but damn close but once i changed to the avid bearings i beat the hell outta that truck for the last 2 years and its now getting to wear it needs a fresh set of diff bearings in the rear
@@dustinflatt5504 I gotcha……yeah bearings do start to get some play in them after awhile….I’m not very good at replacing them on my rigs though……not until they explode anyway lol 😂
Hi mate. Try putting standard differential in your EXB that will fix it. A locker is not good for dirt. Lockers are for road straight runs guy's 👍👍😁
I got a replacement lsd that I put in the rear since making this video
If you're still having problems just put standard v5 spiral 43t -10t differential in it mate they are harder than v4 .
@@armandopace6113 I’ll definitely consider it if I have more differential issues with my EXB
@@RCKnockout trust me you will mate. I'll wait for 3 party to make upgraded one's before I put another one of them in 😁🤣😅
@@armandopace6113 not sure exactly what that means? Lol 😂
Nice! Mine is cheaper than both of these with the Black Friday deal and that’s with a HW Max6 and HW 4985 1650kv.
Nice man! Sounds like you got yourself a deal!!
Cool comparison vid You should shoegoo and sheet rock tape your body it will last a lot longer bro I absolutely love the EXB Kraton Definitely one of my favorite bashers and its pretty dang good on the track from what I've seen Sadly I don't own one I'm seriously thinking about getting one though Nice races Keep this vids coming 🔥👍✌️
Thanks man! Yeah I should of shoe-goo and drywall taped the body….this body is basically trash at this point….unfortunately my experience with the EXB since filming this video hasn’t been great…nothing but diff issues and breakages every time I’ve taken it out….it’s super fun when it works but it’s not reliable…I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to open up the diffs and reshim or replace gears
So what did we find out with this vid ? 🤔
The Castle needs better batteries & a 15t pinion. 👍🏻
Rcalltypes he had his throttle punch turned down so it wouldn’t wheelie off the line. They’re pretty evenly matched when he turns the punch level up
@@RCKnockout I’m just curious, about the batteries. The Castle system has smaller 5200mah C? Lipos VS the 8000mah 50C Lipos.
Either way both systems are good, for those Trucks
Rcalltypes his batteries are 120C. That’s a ridiculous discharge rate! Lol
@@RCKnockout Nice, I must of missed that in the Video.
Rcalltypes I might not of gotten that in the video actually. I should’ve though
Stock EXB pinion is 12T not 14T.
The new kratons only had one battery guys its not even run in. It takes them about 5 packs to loosen up and really go. Elija s car will get faster and faster. Good video but no point in that race arun in car vs not run in car wont stand a chance Do it again for us after Elijas cars had a half a dozen packs thru it guys. so we can enjoy some more action
Mine only had one or two pack through it at this point. I found out later that Elijah had his torque setting turned down so it wouldn’t wheelie as much when he was launching. That’s why his didn’t look as impressive as it probably should have. We will have to do another race at some point. His Castle motor burned up though so his is still out of commission
? Elija has not set his car up punch settings or something that castle motor trash that pinion can’t make that much difference If so I’m going big
KRYPTONITE LEGACY you’re right. He told me he had his punch level turned down so it wouldn’t wheelie. He turned his up now. They seem very similar now. We might have to do another race
@@RCKnockout I had a feeling something was wrong I have the same set up he has just a different servo and a 20t pinion now and boy it’s fast
KRYPTONITE LEGACY yeah he turned his punch level up quite a bit. So they both seem pretty even when it comes to takeoff and backflips and stuff now
Plastic wheels.. don't run lock diffs nor a higher punch settings at full 6s power. Get some M2C +2 double wheel nut hubs. Look into pinning your wheels. (hack)
Thanks for the advice man!! I still need to sort out my diff though
@@RCKnockout just saying... In my Mojave. Vitavon (bigger output bearing size) is best but I picked up 2 Integy billet cases (stock bearing size) for the price of one Vita. The shimming though is unreal on Integy. Also when all finished and about to put the cover on diff, take some shoe goo and smear it around where the bearings touches the cover.. takes up some slop in the case. (Integy😑) I took to shimming the outer bearings and shimming the diff inside the case to solve the play issues.
It's all about the play between the ring gear and input gear (both can be shimmed if needed). I'm just tired of destroying gears and am very close to sorting it all out. Tight gearbox is where it's at.. checking after every run.
@@surfside75 hopefully it holds up for you…I’m not a big fan of having to shim my diffs…wish they did a better job from the factory
Now I've moved on to M2C 6lug set up and it's the only reason I'm still able to run my custom Arrma Mojave with stock wheels tires. (Which I love, but they wear down so quickly😭 at $25 each!)
@@surfside75 that sounds kinda expensive…..are those still plastic wheels?
There is definetly something wrong with the 840 car that mamba monster should be way faster than that
Yeah I actually found out later he had his torque setting turned down which is why it wasn’t launching very hard
Locking the rear diff is a band aid to keep the EXB from sitting on the bench. Just causes other problems. Arma screwed the EXB launch up. They should give full refunds to anyone who wants one.
Yeah it’s definitely just a band aid. And it definitely does cause more problems having it locked up.
I got sick of wheel nuts coming loose,I use a dab of blue loctite problem solved
Yeah you’re definitely right about that! I use Orange threadlock on my wheel nuts now
Blx combo kicks ass at half the price 😉 Yeh you got gear up but really makes no difference from 14t to 15t
MuscleAKAOzzy are you referring to the stock setup in an rtr Kraton is half the price of the mamba monster x?
@@RCKnockout yes seems to be a better setup cheaper faster and cooler🤔😉
MuscleAKAOzzy my setup is probably pretty close to that then. I have the stock blx 2050kv motor and a very similar esc to the stock version.
Those motors are killer, good if you have them bc spectrum going replace , not sure they be as durable
Paul Clancy oh you mean Arrma is going to transition from using the blx motors to Spektrum motors??
Oh man. The diff problem is cray. Definitely will not be getting one of these.
Cheddar Treez I don’t think I’ll buy any new release product from Arrma again. I’ll probably buy something in the future from them but only once the kinks are worked out and there is proper parts support in place
I pretty much never buy RTR's for several reasons. The few times I have I always do a 100% tear down to make sure everything is correct, gear mesh, my own diff oils etc, and rebuild with new electronics and whatever upgrades I have. After 35+ years of building RC's, I havent found a single RTR that didnt need several upgrades to get close to the quality I want.
You wod tork a glass eye to sleep lol lad .shit
I dig the video s but bro you talk to much and explain the same thing mutable times