Sorry man, but the last step is a horrible fuckup, putting the sealant in, without fitting the tyre on the rim and then having the sealant pissing all over the place: 1st put the tyre on the rim 2nd remove the valve core 3rd burst some air into it, let the bead pop on the rim 4th release the air 5th apply sealant through the the valve (no special tool needed, i.e. Stans 2oz bottles have perfect shape to be used for that) 6th put the valve core back 7th spin the mutharfucker couple of times 8th pump it up to some 40psi 9th spin it again 10th take the bike for a ride so the sealant spreads properly Works like a charm every time, without tire cum spraying all over the shop... #Tubes4life
I have not done this yet but was thinking the same. Searched lots of videos only to find your post. If you’re relying on the sealant to fix poor bead fit, then that tyre will leak riding. I’m going to clean the 6 month old sealant and shop fitted tyres, pop cleaned tyre back on without the core. Inflate to pop bead back and check for leaks or bad fit. Deflate. Add sealant. Inflate and check for leaks. Ride bike round the block. Leave for 24hrs and check pressure and top air. Then ride that Mutherfuka! 👊🏼
I don't like sheep jizz all over my tools either, my method is pretty much this except that you can pinch the tyre sidewall and rock the wheel to the side to put the bead closer to seating before you start pumping. I don't bother with tubeless inflators, even without sealant. A low-volume, high pressure pump can supply enough volume for all the combos I've tried with pretty minimal effort. Once you've inflated dry you can pop a section of one bead to add fluid again, roll the open section to the top and reseat easily with no mess - if your sealant prefers not to go through valve stems, or if you've misplaced the remover/needle nosed pliers.
As a rodie, most tires are not directional, and if they are and you don't have disc brakes at least the front can be put in either direction (and swap the skewer if the lever side bothers you). Thanks for the heads up for when I put my gravel bike together :)
First off great video. I work at a bike shop and have done many setups. I have a few extra tips that might help those looking to tackle this. First off inflating the tire with a tube first is a great idea but you can kill 2 birds with 1 stone if you do your tubeless tape before doing this as the pressure in the tube will press the tape into the rim and create a better seal. Secondly, inflating the tire onto the bead before adding sealant will make less mess. The third is that the tip of most of those single dose bottles will fit directly into the valve once the core is removed, creating less mess again. Also those bottles when empty can be used to suck sealant out of a tire if you squeeze the air out of the bottle first. This creates less mess and allows you to reuse most of your old sealant when changing tires. Last but not least, for all those that complain this is a hassle, some tubes have a removable valve core and you can put a small amount of sealant inside to prevent slow leaks from thorns.
Try it out "dry" first! This way you can iron out any mistakes you are making before spilling all your milk everywhere. Once you got your tire seated without milk. Do it again with sealant.
I agree with above, get the tyre seated first, to add sealant after I remove the core of the valve then inject the sealant using a rockshox/sram syringe which screws into the valve. No mess.
From my own experience, you can. You just have to use a tube as the tire beads won't seal properly on rims that don't have the bead locking system designed for tubeless use. However, I have come across "non tubeless" ready rims that aren't designated as "tubeless ready" (many china made rims that just copied the bead lock design but doesn't claim to be tubeless) but actually can lock tubeless tire beads and complete the tire seal. Only way to find out is to do a dry run installation (without the sealant) with a pressure can / air shot / air compressor with air tank to blast the tire and try to seat it. If it locks and holds air, that rim could in theory be used for a tubeless setup. You will then have to pump sealant in and monitor the tire pressure day to day to see if it seals properly. If it works, it works.
super counter intuitive but yea good to see, similar to a pinched O-ring. Also the extra compression when pressurized will add even more deformation causing it to leak more and more as you pump and pump. Can get super frustrating haha
For people who don’t have an air tank or compressor lying around and are pumping with a foot pump, get a sponge and soak it with water and dish soap. Apply the soapy water/sponge along the edge of the rim and tire (both side). Start pumping and watch the tire air up. There may or may not be a pop because of the soapy water but that is ok. If the air is staying in, the beads are seating. Magic... BTW, make sure your tire is mounted the correct direction for proper traction and performance.
Don't make the mistake of thinking because you put sealant in 12 months ago it's still effective..its dried out. At the beginning of every season re-fill the tire with sealant
If you're having issues getting it to seat and have tried all the tricks. Try using a ratchet strap around the tire, it forces it up against the sidewall getting it to seat easy. Couldn't get a tire to seat, even with a compressor, soapy water, and the valve core out but the strap did it.
In theory you set it up once then ride it for 6-12 months without it puncturing and that is super attractive for a commuter bike. After getting two punctures in two weeks on my otherwise reliable commuter bike I'm thinking the initial hassle of going tubeless would be easily worth it.
@mstrbkr Seriously? lol. I had about 15 goatheads in my front and rear tires the other day. I pulled them all out and could hear the symphony of hissing. Just put my bike on the stand and spun the tires... all holes sealed. I pumped the tires up to 40psi and let them sit overnight. Still good, as always. With a tube, you'd have to remove both wheels, take off the tires, replace the tubes and reinstall everything. More time consuming and more expensive.
@@MrHeepspo Only to find out you still have goathead thorns inside your tires and have to pull them apart another time. I have had easy 100 goathead holes in a my tires once just riding over one abandoned lot to get to a local bike shop. I got to the shop and started seeing orange sealant coming out of zillion holes, they sealed up just fine. Tubeless has it's place if you ride in the desert SW of USA.
IKR? "Don't worry, I don't carry it with me all the time." It's a tool, not a possessed evil blade that will corrupt your soul and cause you to go on a murderous rampage if you carry it too much, rofl. Silly Brits, knives are for kids!
I set my tyres up tubeless last week, new bike with tubeless ready tyres and rims, i thought why not. I got the joes kit off wiggle for about £17 thinking if it went wrong on my first try it wouldnt be too costly. Realy happy with them, thought id made a coblers of it at first cos i lost pressure over the first night, but after id been for a ride they seemed to settle in. Im surprised at the difference it makes, especially on cornering.
@@v.garcia9585 Did the same thing, you'll have to take a look at the valve stem rubber, and tape on the rim. Might have to replace both in worst case scenario.
I got to go with the tried and true chrome screw in metal automotive valve stem. And you tighten the valve stem tight and they last as long as your vehicle will. I will have to enlarge bike hole just a little.
To help put the hole in the right place in the tape for the valve, I used the valve itself from the inside of the rim to make a dimple in the tape, by gently pushing it in from inside, to locate where the tape should be pierced. you'll see exactly where it needs to be!
Soapy water works for me. Note not all tubeless valves have removable core (check first and if not, replace is my advice) and note that some rims want a valve with a particular seat profile
A few more - i couldn't seal my winter tires from last season - they were leaking air and compressor couldn't pressure it. What helped finally was dense soap foam (a lot of soap slices shaked with a few drops of water) - like a foam for a cake... once the tire seated in place it was perfectly sealed. My mistake - left the tire for months not removing old sealant - which is. As well significant weight penalty... 2nd - deep rim bed can cause a lot of issues - I am using softer and narrower tape to seal it and 2nd layer of wider once the 1st is pushed in (i.e. using pressure) 3rd - sealant differs (even the best well known). If your tubeless setup is running out of air quickly and the air is not leaking through the valve you may consider changing a sealant (it helped a few times with lite skin tires from schwalbe)
The trick with the silicone-polish worked for me really well (since I had one at home and I am working with only a handpump). My silicone-polish has a little sponge in the front so application is way less messy.
This us a good tutorial. Direction of rotation of the tyre is always important to note and fit onto the rim. We’ve all done an absolute great and neat job, just as we’re feeling smug about it, someone else points out that the tyre looks like it’s not facing the right direction Damn! Damn! Damn!
Steven S you always get some leakage from sealant that gets pushed out as the bead seats, provided you took his advice and added sealant around the bead, an idea I approve of
@@Hirotoro4692 no. Set the bead first, take the valve core off and get sealant through the valve base, put the core back on and pump the tire more if you need to.
Once I learned to take the valve core out, which interferes with a blast of air in to the tire, I never needed any other special tricks again. pull the pump chuck off and put the core back in.
Be careful with too much pressure and overtightening the valve lock ring. I had tremendous problems getting my tires to hold air until I realized I was over-pressurizing them. The extra pressure caused air to push through the valve hole and distended the o-ring. Once the o-ring pushed its way past the lock ring, there was no way to keep the tires inflated. I also, in an effort to make sure the valve hole was sealed cranked down on the lock ring -- same thing happens: distorted o-ring and a big leak.
I switched the video off when he started to use gaffa tape. It's not heat resistant, it can be stretched easily and it will leave pieces of glue if removed. A video about common mistakes done by an amateur that does a huge mistake after 4 minutes of a 17 minutes video...
If your rim has vent holes and you get air leaking out of them, check that your rim tape is good. Also, check that you have a good seal between the rim tape/strip and the valve. For Bontragers with rim strips, an o-ring is needed to be on the valve when its put through the rim strip. The o-ring compresses against the valve and the rim strip. Without a good valve/rim tape seal, you will lose air through the outside of the valve. If your rim has vent holes, then the air will go out that way. For rims that has the valve hole at an angle to the valve centerline, you need to get a little creative. Normally, the valve centerline is 90degrees to the valve hole, but if the hole is drilled at an angle, even with a rubber cone on the valve, you won't be able to adequately seal the valve against the rim. You would need an o-ring that thicker on one side and thinner on the other. You can use Shoe Goo and build up the valve seal to the rim tape Building up this seal takes time for Shoe Goo to dry. Take this time to come up with a conical wedge to put on the valve on the outside. Find a spout that starts out wide and narrows down . You will cut the wide side at an angle that matches your rim, and the narrow side, you cut square/straight. This straight side will be against the valve nut.
Make sure the valve is centred in the middle of the tyre logo. A spare link from a SRAM 1 x 11 chain is the perfect size for a valve core remover. Male link in the centre.
Ask partner blah blah, ive had my bikes longer than my partner, she can stand outside for 10 minutes whilst I play with my rigged rubber. Updated, I can now fix my tyres indoors, with out grief......
I had problems with beading the tire up, so take presta valve out and us air compressor, with rubber tip air blower and gently blow air in valve hole being careful not to use to much air and just wait a few minutes it will pop on! I had a 8 way spoke wrench and found a square that fit prista valve perfect!
Need Advice. My tire is beaded correctly (holds air). I ride at 40 PSI. There was a small section where the sealant stops air from leaking through the bead, the issue is when I land a jump or have a descent impact the seal from the sealant breaks and sealant pops out. It re-seals but in a single trip I can lose 5 to 10 PSI from this. Is this normal or whats the way to fix it?
hello, replying to old video. i'm glad i watch this before tightening down the valve nut. i have the stans tubeless valves, doesn't come with an o-ring either. i was under impression that the o-ring was to keep the nut from loosening and to keep valve from vibrating on the rim, and keep from scratching carbon rim (is this a nonissue? w/o o-ring?) when i tighten finger tight, the valve still can wiggle a little. i feel like it will rattle when riding as well. will this be an issue or will the air pressure be enough to keep it from rattling? thank you!
British people are so funny. He had to make the point to say that he doesn't carry his knife all the time. As if we would assume he was some kind of thug because he had a knife on him. It's extremely common for Americans to have a knife on them all the time. I can't tell you how often it comes in handy. I would never feel compelled to ease the mind of others because I have a knife on me.
can i use motorcycle valve on bike rim??? because i want to pump air easily cause its compatible on any gasoline station there is air pump for motorcycle/cars…
Some rims accept a Shraeder valve, but not many on high performance MTBs. However, you can buy a cheap and simple adaptor that will let you use a garage inflator on a presta valve. Just be careful not to exceed the safe pressure.
I personally don't like using a knife to make the hole, because the tape can split. I use an awl and then widen the hold a little bit with a round file (chainsaw file) so that it is still snug when it goes in.
kitchen towel as much as you can , wash out with warm water, kitchen towel again, leave overnight to dry out, kitchen towel again. Worked for me on a friends set up where he'd used some horrible blue stuff, that was sticking the sidewalls together.
what about the tyre seating then after deflation unseating again, with the same pop as it went on Giant rims and 3 types of tyre including Giant's own none of them stay seated
I have just recently purchased a mtb. I haven't had to use a bike since the 70's as a child. I live in the west texas desert, many little sharp things, not so much on the road buy still, they are unavoidable. I've tried to understand by the comments but, as someone new to this, I don't know who is correct. My bike is a Schwinn abbott(shimano) full suspension 29inch 21 speed. Walmart bike but it's what i can afford. I want to know if tubeless, that's how it came, if i get a puncture, is fixing it the same as repairing the tube, but from the inside?
just bought my other half a Trek Neo with Bontrager LT2 Comp 700x32 tyres on Bontrager TLR rims . I want to fit the widest tyre on this rim and go Tubeless but cannot find any info? Can you please advise. thanks and have a good New Year
What you say it’s a big difference if my rims are not rubles ready but my tires are....I’m Wondering if I should give it a go....a new set of rims is pretty expensive
Hi guys. What shall I do when the nooze is broken from a non removable presta core and don't want to change the whole tire tube? Tube as new. Please let me know
right on bass! 99% of we riders do not bang a wheel into obstacles hard enough to pinch a tube, so, for us, a tube works great; also there are no “tricks” to installing a tube.
Great video. I have just bought my other half a Trek Neo with Bontrager LT2 Comp 700x32 tyres on Bontrager TLR rims . I want to fit the widest tyre on this rim and go Tubeless but cannot find any info? Can you please advise. thanks and have a good New Year
if you have sealant leaking round the spokes... Bouncing the tire can help. Get enough air into the tire and it'll bounce, just like a basketball. Rotate the tire 360 degrees as you do keep bouncing. This will cause the sealant to coat the tape and plug any small gaps between the tape and the wheel.
Had to tell us he doesn't carry his knife around all the time with him. Leave the virtue signaling at home. You should carry your knife and a pistol around with you at all times and be proud to do so. It's smart and part of what keeps a free man, free. Thanks for the video.
Bill, you do realise there are other countries in the World outside the USA? And those countries have different laws with respect to guns and knives? If not, we have exciting news for you.
@@MBRmagazine and why do you need to virtue signal to people that you don't carry it all the time? Think someone might turn you in to the authorities because you pulled one out of your pocket in a video? Think they might judge you? lol Grow a spine. And whether you have "laws" against it or not, those laws are a violation of your God-given freedoms to protect yourself. You can guarantee the criminals in your country don't follow those same laws and your politicians are putting you at an unjust disadvantage. By the way, you did a great job with the video and I appreciate your expertise and I'm not trying to give you too hard of a time, just encouraging you to be a man and don't follow unjust laws.
One thing not mentioned is the problem l have which is air coming out from the spoke nipples. After a bit of reading I think it might be due to over-tightening the valve meaning the valve is pulled too far down leading to air coming in to the cavity in the rim. This was kind of mentioned in the video but not in this exact sense. I still have to check if this is actually what happened in my case but hopefully the info is helpful for others anyway.
Isopropyl (or “IPA”, 60% and up, or wipe twice) is good enough, as would be Spiritus meant for cosmetics. Brake cleaner could be a mixture of heaver alcohols, usually Heptane and up. Don't use it with carbon as it might damage its surface, and best-case the tape just won't stick. Use cloth, like an old but smooth sock or napkin, no paper towel or the like.
What he said about over tightening the locknut on the valve is the number one problem I see when people bring wheels they are having issues with into the shop. If you do overtighten the valve and mess up the tape you don't neccesarily have to redu all the tape. You can clean the sealant off the tape really well by the valve hole with isopropyl alcohol. Then apply two more strips of tape going about 3 inches on either side of the valve hole. It helps to cut these tape patches narrower by just a few millimeters so you dont create issues with the tire seating. Patching the tape at the valve hole like this is not ideal and may not work but tubeless tape is expensive to be starting all over again. Also what he said about tape width. Some time's have an odd width that dosen't match all brands of tubless tape. Make sure you buy tape that is not too wide and will not bunch up on the inner side of the rim. It can make it a nightmare for the tire to seat.
I have a pair of wheels that tubeless ready and I have been using tubeless tires with sealant for over a year. I bought recently a new set of tires (also tubeless) but I realised there's a leak. Shall I change the rim tape? Or will running with inner tubes for a bit seal the leak and I can remove the inner tube later on?
i've given up on the tubeless set up - my tubeless tires will forever be running tubes - fucking so much less hassle and saves me wanting to smash my bike. So until I get some actual tubeless rims - this process is for the birds and an exercise in futility.
They have those, or you can make them. It doesn't give you the weight savings, traction and pinch flat protection, but it will help with punctures. I do this with my kids' bikes that are too much of a pain to convert to tubeless.
Wow, what caught my eye was the onZa logo and how it's still alive and kicking... You see, I co founded onZa in 1986 and came up with the name while starring out the window in my office cubical day dreaming of some day starting up my own company... Just amazing that nearly 40 years later it's still around and doing well. As for using Gorilla tape, sure it works well since you work in a place that does not keep things long as you have to continue to get rid of products to test new. But for the average rider who tends to keep things long term, here is a word or Warning... A couple years down the road you'll need to replace your beat up Gorilla rim tape, unfortunately it leaves behind a giant gooey sticky mess that's nearly impossible to clean. I would not recommend it, for the average rider, I highly recommend to use proper tubeless rim tape like WTB brand. Be careful with Orange brand rim tape because you have to double or triple tape your rim or risk tearing at the spoke hole. WTB just needs one taping and it works great. Dan ( :
Hey Dan, thanks for the comment and fantastic to hear from someone involved in such an iconic brand from the early years. Our memory might be a little rusty but were you also involved in some wild looking full-suspension bikes back in the nineties too?
@@MBRmagazine Hello, I couldn't find your name... Anyways, yes I was involved in quite a bit of suspension bike designs for several companies. But I personally created the CRS, for my personal use. It was a fully rigid suspension bike. It was all Cr-Mo but it rode like a suspension bike. I think it took 2nd place at the Kamikaze in Mammoth, with a pro rider. Right afterwards it was shipped to Japan for a magazine review.. It was built by CURTLO / Doug Curtis when he used to have his shop near my home in Valencia Calif.
Project reworked my 2007 disc rims Schrader valve setup used motor cycle tube valves I used dremel to clean up and shape for rim valley. Used windshield sealant at 1 inch tape penetration. Added some sealant I found then inflated to 60 to 65 pounds let sit over night slowly roll the tire to get sealant every inch of tire then flip a few times check tire pressure a few times if still hard flip a few more times roll then let sit.
Gorilla tape goes on nice but as soon as you scratch the black surface off it is no longer air tight. It is easy to scratch with tyre levers or just the friction of the tyre bead seating.
The problem I am having trying to go tubeless is getting the tire to set. I have two hand pumps and a shop compressor. The air seems to go out the fitting adaptor as if the adaptor is not working correctly. I tried other air chucks and the same thing happens. The tire was soaped and that did not help. Has anyone else had this problem? How did you fix it
Help beginner here more like a noob to be honest. I have an issue the tyre even though is seated properly spins in a 8 shape. Anyone knows what's the problem ?
When you seat the tyre, inflate to around 40psi and it should snap onto the rim with a few loud bangs. If not then the tyre can ‘wobble’ on the rim. If you did that then it sounds like the tyre is warped. Rare but it can happen.
@@MBRmagazine it feels very weird. It keeps happening to me I deflated 3 tyres and all of them are wobbly after trying to change to tubeless. One of the tyres was not tubeless ready so I just inflate it back to normal (still wobbling). The bead sits perfectly and simetrical everywhere. The tyres are all new and two different brands. I used soap and 4 bar. Nothing helped. Can't be that I am that unlucky ! Any other miraculous tips ? Otherwise complain with manufacturer ? I had same issue with Maxxis tyres and apparently it's quite known for it but Schwalbe and continental shouldn't .... The tyres are so new that the hairs are still visible.
The valve seals that I have and came with the bike are of a rectangular shape, which direction is best to insert them. Do they go perpendicular to the sides of the rim or do they sit in the wheel well?
Sorry man, but the last step is a horrible fuckup, putting the sealant in, without fitting the tyre on the rim and then having the sealant pissing all over the place:
1st put the tyre on the rim
2nd remove the valve core
3rd burst some air into it, let the bead pop on the rim
4th release the air
5th apply sealant through the the valve (no special tool needed, i.e. Stans 2oz bottles have perfect shape to be used for that)
6th put the valve core back
7th spin the mutharfucker couple of times
8th pump it up to some 40psi
9th spin it again
10th take the bike for a ride so the sealant spreads properly
Works like a charm every time, without tire cum spraying all over the shop...
#Tubes4life
Only way to do it !
Well said
I have not done this yet but was thinking the same. Searched lots of videos only to find your post.
If you’re relying on the sealant to fix poor bead fit, then that tyre will leak riding. I’m going to clean the 6 month old sealant and shop fitted tyres, pop cleaned tyre back on without the core. Inflate to pop bead back and check for leaks or bad fit. Deflate. Add sealant. Inflate and check for leaks. Ride bike round the block. Leave for 24hrs and check pressure and top air. Then ride that Mutherfuka! 👊🏼
I love it when the comments are much better than the tutorial itself. This video would've been a total waste of time without your comment!
I don't like sheep jizz all over my tools either, my method is pretty much this except that you can pinch the tyre sidewall and rock the wheel to the side to put the bead closer to seating before you start pumping. I don't bother with tubeless inflators, even without sealant. A low-volume, high pressure pump can supply enough volume for all the combos I've tried with pretty minimal effort. Once you've inflated dry you can pop a section of one bead to add fluid again, roll the open section to the top and reseat easily with no mess - if your sealant prefers not to go through valve stems, or if you've misplaced the remover/needle nosed pliers.
OI MATE, YOU GOT A LOICENSE FOR THAT KNIFE?
Knoife*
Make sure your tyre is on the right way round... ie rolling direction before you inflate 🤔
Cycle London iv made this mistake a load of times..some disaster
Nothing like finally getting your second bitchy tubeless tire setup just to realize you're about to have to redo it lol.
Exactly. Learnt this the hard way today.
As a rodie, most tires are not directional, and if they are and you don't have disc brakes at least the front can be put in either direction (and swap the skewer if the lever side bothers you). Thanks for the heads up for when I put my gravel bike together :)
First off great video. I work at a bike shop and have done many setups. I have a few extra tips that might help those looking to tackle this. First off inflating the tire with a tube first is a great idea but you can kill 2 birds with 1 stone if you do your tubeless tape before doing this as the pressure in the tube will press the tape into the rim and create a better seal. Secondly, inflating the tire onto the bead before adding sealant will make less mess. The third is that the tip of most of those single dose bottles will fit directly into the valve once the core is removed, creating less mess again. Also those bottles when empty can be used to suck sealant out of a tire if you squeeze the air out of the bottle first. This creates less mess and allows you to reuse most of your old sealant when changing tires. Last but not least, for all those that complain this is a hassle, some tubes have a removable valve core and you can put a small amount of sealant inside to prevent slow leaks from thorns.
I'm doing this conversion, can I use a tubeless Schrader valve instead of a presta valve?
@@obadaalomari1821 Nope. [actually you can, but it is very hard to find+buy the right value - so "nope"]
Obada Alomari Yes you can , Nutrack do schrader tubeless valves, available from any shop with a Madison account.
Try it out "dry" first! This way you can iron out any mistakes you are making before spilling all your milk everywhere. Once you got your tire seated without milk. Do it again with sealant.
I agree with above, get the tyre seated first, to add sealant after I remove the core of the valve then inject the sealant using a rockshox/sram syringe which screws into the valve. No mess.
This is how I do it and has worked well for me on all of my bikes with different sizes and widths (26", 29", 27.5", skinny, fat, and plus).
Why are you calling it milk? Most sealant brands are bright colours like orange or green. Doc blue is white, though.
Possibly because there is no crying over spilt milk.
stan's sealant looks like cream
and then you realise you put it on backwards
Dave Walsh *begins twisting rim into Möbius strip*
so...many...times! even though i drew an arrow on the tyre...
😅💀
Mine leaks through the seem in my rim
when everything is fine and tight. rotation is always wrong :-)
+1.25 playback speed makes this easier to watch.
2x
So much easier
I think this is good overall.
Saves time.
Thanks for that idea.
If this guy has a spirit animal, it's a sloth.
I didn't mind it how it was :')
i always seat the tyre without sealant then i release the air out of it before i fill it through the valve with sealant.
no mess and Super easy
Can i put tubeless ready tires on non tubeless rims?
From my own experience, you can. You just have to use a tube as the tire beads won't seal properly on rims that don't have the bead locking system designed for tubeless use.
However, I have come across "non tubeless" ready rims that aren't designated as "tubeless ready" (many china made rims that just copied the bead lock design but doesn't claim to be tubeless) but actually can lock tubeless tire beads and complete the tire seal.
Only way to find out is to do a dry run installation (without the sealant) with a pressure can / air shot / air compressor with air tank to blast the tire and try to seat it. If it locks and holds air, that rim could in theory be used for a tubeless setup. You will then have to pump sealant in and monitor the tire pressure day to day to see if it seals properly. If it works, it works.
I didn’t know the valve lock ring could be too tight. Thanks for the great tips and video.
super counter intuitive but yea good to see, similar to a pinched O-ring. Also the extra compression when pressurized will add even more deformation causing it to leak more and more as you pump and pump. Can get super frustrating haha
For people who don’t have an air tank or compressor lying around and are pumping with a foot pump, get a sponge and soak it with water and dish soap. Apply the soapy water/sponge along the edge of the rim and tire (both side). Start pumping and watch the tire air up. There may or may not be a pop because of the soapy water but that is ok. If the air is staying in, the beads are seating. Magic...
BTW, make sure your tire is mounted the correct direction for proper traction and performance.
Can I do this with my tire mounted or do I have to pull it off my front fork
Don't make the mistake of thinking because you put sealant in 12 months ago it's still effective..its dried out. At the beginning of every season re-fill the tire with sealant
If you're having issues getting it to seat and have tried all the tricks. Try using a ratchet strap around the tire, it forces it up against the sidewall getting it to seat easy. Couldn't get a tire to seat, even with a compressor, soapy water, and the valve core out but the strap did it.
Agreed, I use a ratchet strap for tubeless hand truck tires as well, which can be a real bitch to reseat. It's a great trick.
In theory you set it up once then ride it for 6-12 months without it puncturing and that is super attractive for a commuter bike. After getting two punctures in two weeks on my otherwise reliable commuter bike I'm thinking the initial hassle of going tubeless would be easily worth it.
@mstrbkr Seriously? lol. I had about 15 goatheads in my front and rear tires the other day. I pulled them all out and could hear the symphony of hissing. Just put my bike on the stand and spun the tires... all holes sealed. I pumped the tires up to 40psi and let them sit overnight. Still good, as always.
With a tube, you'd have to remove both wheels, take off the tires, replace the tubes and reinstall everything. More time consuming and more expensive.
@@MrHeepspo Only to find out you still have goathead thorns inside your tires and have to pull them apart another time. I have had easy 100 goathead holes in a my tires once just riding over one abandoned lot to get to a local bike shop. I got to the shop and started seeing orange sealant coming out of zillion holes, they sealed up just fine. Tubeless has it's place if you ride in the desert SW of USA.
I don't know about the UK, but brake cleaner in the US is definitely NOT the same as isopropyl.
Atlas WalkedAway depends on brand. Some are quite nasty to get on the skin.
"A complete doddle..." Imma have to use that word one day lol
What's wrong with carrying a knife around lol
IKR? "Don't worry, I don't carry it with me all the time." It's a tool, not a possessed evil blade that will corrupt your soul and cause you to go on a murderous rampage if you carry it too much, rofl. Silly Brits, knives are for kids!
I have always used electrical insulating tape and cheap and no weight and does a great job.
I set my tyres up tubeless last week, new bike with tubeless ready tyres and rims, i thought why not. I got the joes kit off wiggle for about £17 thinking if it went wrong on my first try it wouldnt be too costly. Realy happy with them, thought id made a coblers of it at first cos i lost pressure over the first night, but after id been for a ride they seemed to settle in. Im surprised at the difference it makes, especially on cornering.
Lol. I just found out why my valve kept leaking. I thought tightening it down harder would make it stop leaking. Top tips mate.
Can you correct this once it's done? I overtightened and caused the leak, but now even when I loosen up it's still leaking.
@@v.garcia9585 Did the same thing, you'll have to take a look at the valve stem rubber, and tape on the rim. Might have to replace both in worst case scenario.
I got to go with the tried and true chrome screw in metal automotive valve stem. And you tighten the valve stem tight and they last as long as your vehicle will. I will have to enlarge bike hole just a little.
To help put the hole in the right place in the tape for the valve, I used the valve itself from the inside of the rim to make a dimple in the tape, by gently pushing it in from inside, to locate where the tape should be pierced. you'll see exactly where it needs to be!
Soapy water works for me. Note not all tubeless valves have removable core (check first and if not, replace is my advice) and note that some rims want a valve with a particular seat profile
A few more
- i couldn't seal my winter tires from last season - they were leaking air and compressor couldn't pressure it. What helped finally was dense soap foam (a lot of soap slices shaked with a few drops of water) - like a foam for a cake... once the tire seated in place it was perfectly sealed. My mistake - left the tire for months not removing old sealant - which is. As well significant weight penalty...
2nd - deep rim bed can cause a lot of issues - I am using softer and narrower tape to seal it and 2nd layer of wider once the 1st is pushed in (i.e. using pressure)
3rd - sealant differs (even the best well known). If your tubeless setup is running out of air quickly and the air is not leaking through the valve you may consider changing a sealant (it helped a few times with lite skin tires from schwalbe)
The trick with the silicone-polish worked for me really well (since I had one at home and I am working with only a handpump).
My silicone-polish has a little sponge in the front so application is way less messy.
This us a good tutorial. Direction of rotation of the tyre is always important to note and fit onto the rim. We’ve all done an absolute great and neat job, just as we’re feeling smug about it, someone else points out that the tyre looks like it’s not facing the right direction Damn! Damn! Damn!
17:17 and that's what happens when you spin your sealant-filled wheel around before seating the bead :-/
Steven S you always get some leakage from sealant that gets pushed out as the bead seats, provided you took his advice and added sealant around the bead, an idea I approve of
@@Hirotoro4692 Nope, not really. You can seat the bead first and that prevents pretty much all the sealant from seeping out.
@@Hirotoro4692 no. Set the bead first, take the valve core off and get sealant through the valve base, put the core back on and pump the tire more if you need to.
Once I learned to take the valve core out, which interferes with a blast of air in to the tire, I never needed any other special tricks again. pull the pump chuck off and put the core back in.
Be careful with too much pressure and overtightening the valve lock ring. I had tremendous problems getting my tires to hold air until I realized I was over-pressurizing them. The extra pressure caused air to push through the valve hole and distended the o-ring. Once the o-ring pushed its way past the lock ring, there was no way to keep the tires inflated. I also, in an effort to make sure the valve hole was sealed cranked down on the lock ring -- same thing happens: distorted o-ring and a big leak.
So, did you have to replace the o'ring? I don't think I even saw the guy in the video use the o-ring. Was wondering if it was even necessary. Thanks
I want tires back you can actually handle in the woods when you´r in trouble, without breaking your fingers taking them on and off...
carry plastic levers with steel cores
There’s gotta be away to elimate air tires need something strong enough for adults weight but soft enough for a comfortable ride
Cushcore
I switched the video off when he started to use gaffa tape. It's not heat resistant, it can be stretched easily and it will leave pieces of glue if removed. A video about common mistakes done by an amateur that does a huge mistake after 4 minutes of a 17 minutes video...
Sausage it works perfectly
If your rim has vent holes and you get air leaking out of them, check that your rim tape is good. Also, check that you have a good seal between the rim tape/strip and the valve. For Bontragers with rim strips, an o-ring is needed to be on the valve when its put through the rim strip. The o-ring compresses against the valve and the rim strip. Without a good valve/rim tape seal, you will lose air through the outside of the valve. If your rim has vent holes, then the air will go out that way.
For rims that has the valve hole at an angle to the valve centerline, you need to get a little creative. Normally, the valve centerline is 90degrees to the valve hole, but if the hole is drilled at an angle, even with a rubber cone on the valve, you won't be able to adequately seal the valve against the rim. You would need an o-ring that thicker on one side and thinner on the other. You can use Shoe Goo and build up the valve seal to the rim tape Building up this seal takes time for Shoe Goo to dry. Take this time to come up with a conical wedge to put on the valve on the outside. Find a spout that starts out wide and narrows down . You will cut the wide side at an angle that matches your rim, and the narrow side, you cut square/straight. This straight side will be against the valve nut.
Make sure the valve is centred in the middle of the tyre logo.
A spare link from a SRAM 1 x 11 chain is the perfect size for a valve core remover. Male link in the centre.
@John Seba Style points.
I am always going to use a soldering iron to get my hole in the tape. Works reals good so far and needs no big force.
I did my 1st tubeless today & had no issues. If you have the right products its a simple job. Just take your time!
Ask partner blah blah, ive had my bikes longer than my partner, she can stand outside for 10 minutes whilst I play with my rigged rubber.
Updated, I can now fix my tyres indoors, with out grief......
Wow they let you have assult pocket knifes over the pond? Surprisingly lmao
I had problems with beading the tire up, so take presta valve out and us air compressor, with rubber tip air blower and gently blow air in valve hole being careful not to use to much air and just wait a few minutes it will pop on! I had a 8 way spoke wrench and found a square that fit prista valve perfect!
Thanks for the tips, it definitely helped out and made it easier.
Cheers
Need Advice.
My tire is beaded correctly (holds air). I ride at 40 PSI. There was a small section where the sealant stops air from leaking through the bead, the issue is when I land a jump or have a descent impact the seal from the sealant breaks and sealant pops out. It re-seals but in a single trip I can lose 5 to 10 PSI from this. Is this normal or whats the way to fix it?
hello, replying to old video. i'm glad i watch this before tightening down the valve nut. i have the stans tubeless valves, doesn't come with an o-ring either. i was under impression that the o-ring was to keep the nut from loosening and to keep valve from vibrating on the rim, and keep from scratching carbon rim (is this a nonissue? w/o o-ring?) when i tighten finger tight, the valve still can wiggle a little. i feel like it will rattle when riding as well. will this be an issue or will the air pressure be enough to keep it from rattling? thank you!
Imho valves made out of inner tubes are the best. u can custom it to ur rim and have the best seal. The best part, they are free!
British people are so funny. He had to make the point to say that he doesn't carry his knife all the time. As if we would assume he was some kind of thug because he had a knife on him. It's extremely common for Americans to have a knife on them all the time. I can't tell you how often it comes in handy. I would never feel compelled to ease the mind of others because I have a knife on me.
4 years late, just changing my tires and I can't get a good seal. It's leaking from the stem. SMFH!
can i use motorcycle valve on bike rim??? because i want to pump air easily cause its compatible on any gasoline station there is air pump for motorcycle/cars…
Some rims accept a Shraeder valve, but not many on high performance MTBs. However, you can buy a cheap and simple adaptor that will let you use a garage inflator on a presta valve. Just be careful not to exceed the safe pressure.
I personally don't like using a knife to make the hole, because the tape can split. I use an awl and then widen the hold a little bit with a round file (chainsaw file) so that it is still snug when it goes in.
I already FUCKING DID ALL OF THEM AND IT CANT HOLD AIR OR SEALANT
Very informative video, thanks! How does one go about removing old/dried sealant from inside the rim and tyre?
kitchen towel as much as you can , wash out with warm water, kitchen towel again, leave overnight to dry out, kitchen towel again. Worked for me on a friends set up where he'd used some horrible blue stuff, that was sticking the sidewalls together.
3.0" TR tyre - cannot get it to seat. Bloody sealant all over bathroom. FFS.
what about the tyre seating then after deflation unseating again, with the same pop as it went on Giant rims and 3 types of tyre including Giant's own none of them stay seated
In regards to Tip 1, what about keeping your tire outdoors in the hot sun for an afternoon? Would the heat help to soften up the kinks in the bead??
Excellent point...what was I thinking???
this was not helpful for rims with large cutouts and no ideas how to get a tight rim strip on.. thinking soaking it in warm water i guess
You should carry that around all the time ok
Gorilla tape is a nightmare to remove should you have to replace a spoke and replace the rim tape.
IVE DONE ALL INSTRUCTIONS, IT DOESNT NEVER FUCKING SEAL
I have just recently purchased a mtb. I haven't had to use a bike since the 70's as a child. I live in the west texas desert, many little sharp things, not so much on the road buy still, they are unavoidable. I've tried to understand by the comments but, as someone new to this, I don't know who is correct. My bike is a Schwinn abbott(shimano) full suspension 29inch 21 speed. Walmart bike but it's what i can afford. I want to know if tubeless, that's how it came, if i get a puncture, is fixing it the same as repairing the tube, but from the inside?
If there's enough sealant inside the tire,just adding in the proper air pressure should allow the sealant to fill the puncture.Happy Trails.
just bought my other half a Trek Neo with Bontrager LT2 Comp 700x32 tyres on Bontrager TLR rims . I want to fit the widest tyre on this rim and go Tubeless but cannot find any info?
Can you please advise. thanks and have a good New Year
Not sure as we don’t really cover bikes with 700c wheels, but you might be able to go to a 40c or larger tyre depending on frame clearance.
If there is one thing I like its a clean rim.
Amen! lol
Advice for life, really.
What you say it’s a big difference if my rims are not rubles ready but my tires are....I’m
Wondering if I should give it a go....a new set of rims is pretty expensive
Pity you avoided getting the tyre onto the rim. It is very hard to do without damaging your tape.
Gorilla is great and cheap until you have to clean off the crap to retape
Great informative video.
Hi guys. What shall I do when the nooze is broken from a non removable presta core and don't want to change the whole tire tube? Tube as new. Please let me know
Sorry, but it's new tube time.
Wait for me,I have to change the fluid in my tires.Never thought I would say that.
Never got it to leak by compressing the valve too hard
If you're getting any less than three flats a season, tubeless is a waste of time money and energy. Could you imagine putting slime in your car tire.
right on bass! 99% of we riders do not bang a wheel into obstacles hard enough to pinch a tube, so, for us, a tube works great; also there are no “tricks” to installing a tube.
Lost me at Gorilla tape. Utterly, utterly stupid.
Don't trust manufacturer pre-taped rims, even if they look okay - take it off, clean the rim and tape it up yourself (from very recent experience)...
Great video. I have just bought my other half a Trek Neo with Bontrager LT2 Comp 700x32 tyres on Bontrager TLR rims . I want to fit the widest tyre on this rim and go Tubeless but cannot find any info?
Can you please advise. thanks and have a good New Year
How do I choose the length to order a tubeless valve?
Do you think a heat gun could help with seating the tape really good
eric no, it could melt the tape and possibly damage the rim.
Mistake no. 1
Buying tubeless tires.
Looked good. Didn't understand why he was spinning tyre and sloshing it about before it was beaded though... Surely that's gonna get messy? Thanks
Thanks for your great advises
if you have sealant leaking round the spokes... Bouncing the tire can help. Get enough air into the tire and it'll bounce, just like a basketball. Rotate the tire 360 degrees as you do keep bouncing. This will cause the sealant to coat the tape and plug any small gaps between the tape and the wheel.
Had to tell us he doesn't carry his knife around all the time with him. Leave the virtue signaling at home. You should carry your knife and a pistol around with you at all times and be proud to do so. It's smart and part of what keeps a free man, free. Thanks for the video.
Bill, you do realise there are other countries in the World outside the USA? And those countries have different laws with respect to guns and knives? If not, we have exciting news for you.
@@MBRmagazine and why do you need to virtue signal to people that you don't carry it all the time? Think someone might turn you in to the authorities because you pulled one out of your pocket in a video? Think they might judge you? lol Grow a spine. And whether you have "laws" against it or not, those laws are a violation of your God-given freedoms to protect yourself. You can guarantee the criminals in your country don't follow those same laws and your politicians are putting you at an unjust disadvantage. By the way, you did a great job with the video and I appreciate your expertise and I'm not trying to give you too hard of a time, just encouraging you to be a man and don't follow unjust laws.
I always carry my gun and knife in my back jersey pocket when I ride my bike. Just as God intended.
Thanks a lot, my problem was leaking air from valve, probably i'm overtigh the valve too much. I need to try again with your advice.
One thing not mentioned is the problem l have which is air coming out from the spoke nipples. After a bit of reading I think it might be due to over-tightening the valve meaning the valve is pulled too far down leading to air coming in to the cavity in the rim. This was kind of mentioned in the video but not in this exact sense.
I still have to check if this is actually what happened in my case but hopefully the info is helpful for others anyway.
I carry mine all the time. Lots of coyotes.
What's that shit he stayed on there to bead it????
this is so unprofessional fucking hell
How about putting in hot water to get kinks out ?
Isopropyl (or “IPA”, 60% and up, or wipe twice) is good enough, as would be Spiritus meant for cosmetics. Brake cleaner could be a mixture of heaver alcohols, usually Heptane and up. Don't use it with carbon as it might damage its surface, and best-case the tape just won't stick. Use cloth, like an old but smooth sock or napkin, no paper towel or the like.
Isn't Gorilla tape (basically duct tape) porous? So won't it leak air? Slowly, but for sure?
What he said about over tightening the locknut on the valve is the number one problem I see when people bring wheels they are having issues with into the shop. If you do overtighten the valve and mess up the tape you don't neccesarily have to redu all the tape. You can clean the sealant off the tape really well by the valve hole with isopropyl alcohol. Then apply two more strips of tape going about 3 inches on either side of the valve hole. It helps to cut these tape patches narrower by just a few millimeters so you dont create issues with the tire seating. Patching the tape at the valve hole like this is not ideal and may not work but tubeless tape is expensive to be starting all over again. Also what he said about tape width. Some time's have an odd width that dosen't match all brands of tubless tape. Make sure you buy tape that is not too wide and will not bunch up on the inner side of the rim. It can make it a nightmare for the tire to seat.
Great video. No need to apologize for carrying a knife. It’s a useful tool...forget about the weenies
I have a pair of wheels that tubeless ready and I have been using tubeless tires with sealant for over a year. I bought recently a new set of tires (also tubeless) but I realised there's a leak. Shall I change the rim tape? Or will running with inner tubes for a bit seal the leak and I can remove the inner tube later on?
i've given up on the tubeless set up - my tubeless tires will forever be running tubes - fucking so much less hassle and saves me wanting to smash my bike. So until I get some actual tubeless rims - this process is for the birds and an exercise in futility.
What if you put sealant inside of an inner tube?🧐🧐
They have those, or you can make them. It doesn't give you the weight savings, traction and pinch flat protection, but it will help with punctures. I do this with my kids' bikes that are too much of a pain to convert to tubeless.
Wow, what caught my eye was the onZa logo and how it's still alive and kicking... You see, I co founded onZa in 1986 and came up with the name while starring out the window in my office cubical day dreaming of some day starting up my own company... Just amazing that nearly 40 years later it's still around and doing well. As for using Gorilla tape, sure it works well since you work in a place that does not keep things long as you have to continue to get rid of products to test new. But for the average rider who tends to keep things long term, here is a word or Warning... A couple years down the road you'll need to replace your beat up Gorilla rim tape, unfortunately it leaves behind a giant gooey sticky mess that's nearly impossible to clean. I would not recommend it, for the average rider, I highly recommend to use proper tubeless rim tape like WTB brand. Be careful with Orange brand rim tape because you have to double or triple tape your rim or risk tearing at the spoke hole. WTB just needs one taping and it works great. Dan ( :
Hey Dan, thanks for the comment and fantastic to hear from someone involved in such an iconic brand from the early years. Our memory might be a little rusty but were you also involved in some wild looking full-suspension bikes back in the nineties too?
@@MBRmagazine Hello, I couldn't find your name... Anyways, yes I was involved in quite a bit of suspension bike designs for several companies. But I personally created the CRS, for my personal use. It was a fully rigid suspension bike. It was all Cr-Mo but it rode like a suspension bike. I think it took 2nd place at the Kamikaze in Mammoth, with a pro rider. Right afterwards it was shipped to Japan for a magazine review.. It was built by CURTLO / Doug Curtis when he used to have his shop near my home in Valencia Calif.
Awesome! Great little trip down memory lane! Cheers, Danny Milner (editor)
Project reworked my 2007 disc rims Schrader valve setup used motor cycle tube valves I used dremel to clean up and shape for rim valley. Used windshield sealant at 1 inch tape penetration. Added some sealant I found then inflated to 60 to 65 pounds let sit over night slowly roll the tire to get sealant every inch of tire then flip a few times check tire pressure a few times if still hard flip a few more times roll then let sit.
Gorilla tape goes on nice but as soon as you scratch the black surface off it is no longer air tight. It is easy to scratch with tyre levers or just the friction of the tyre bead seating.
The problem I am having trying to go tubeless is getting the tire to set. I have two hand pumps and a shop compressor. The air seems to go out the fitting adaptor as if the adaptor is not working correctly. I tried other air chucks and the same thing happens. The tire was soaped and that did not help. Has anyone else had this problem? How did you fix it
Help beginner here more like a noob to be honest. I have an issue the tyre even though is seated properly spins in a 8 shape. Anyone knows what's the problem ?
When you seat the tyre, inflate to around 40psi and it should snap onto the rim with a few loud bangs. If not then the tyre can ‘wobble’ on the rim. If you did that then it sounds like the tyre is warped. Rare but it can happen.
@@MBRmagazine it feels very weird. It keeps happening to me I deflated 3 tyres and all of them are wobbly after trying to change to tubeless. One of the tyres was not tubeless ready so I just inflate it back to normal (still wobbling). The bead sits perfectly and simetrical everywhere. The tyres are all new and two different brands. I used soap and 4 bar. Nothing helped. Can't be that I am that unlucky ! Any other miraculous tips ? Otherwise complain with manufacturer ? I had same issue with Maxxis tyres and apparently it's quite known for it but Schwalbe and continental shouldn't .... The tyres are so new that the hairs are still visible.
Can't wait for new technology to make this process a thing of amusing past
I’ve asked my local bike shop to set up my new bike tubeless but not sure I’ve made the right decision what do you guys think
effectively, effectively, obviously, obviously, effectively, effectively, obviously, obviously, lubrication, pop, soap and water, sealant, silicon, puncture protection. Got it mate!
i’m so glad Vision was available to help with this video
The valve seals that I have and came with the bike are of a rectangular shape, which direction is best to insert them. Do they go perpendicular to the sides of the rim or do they sit in the wheel well?
You have answered nothing
Use a little RTV sealant on the rubber boot of the valve as well as an o ring on the other side