Looks like a lot of work getting the shafts off the diff on these American IS300's. On the Euro IS200's it's just 4 nuts on each side that attach the shafts to the diff.
So why did you take out the 12 Allen bolts when the stub shafts pop out of the diff? Seems like a pain in the ass for no reason. Maybe I'm missing something
wait do you really not have to loosen those 12 bolts? bc I wanna buy a Y38 diff and that diff I'm buying doesn't come with the stub shaft. so I'm wondering can u just use a crowbar as he did in the vid to pry out the stub shaft and not have to waste time loosening those bolts.
@@gurpreetsoomal5408 Well... the side-gear-shafts will ultimately need removed from your old diff and over to the frs diff. Easier said than done while diff is in the car and axles are attached. It would be (was) way faster to undo 6 hex-socket-head-cap-screws on each side. Makes installation easier too. IF you are on a lift then pick your poison, but on jack stands plan to use a 8mm allen socket on those axles THERE (with the parking brake on at the right times). Safer with the diff out of the car to back off the side-gear-shafts using two longer bolts on opposite sides (against a brace on the diff): you don't want to damage any of the finer tolerances in the left/right spline section with uneven removal techniques (hammer/pry bars). I was able to use the old snap rings, and the outer/only rubber oil seals were good on my y38 BUT these are worth getting if you're able to source them. I drained/filled the y38 with 75W90 synth AND lsd additive (about 1.25Q total). TWO Crush washers (90430-A0003) are prudent, torque back at ~35-39 ftlbs after drain/fill.
He was probably hedging a bet. For those of us with just jack stands plan to remove the axles first and the side-gear-shafts later (out of car) with 2 longer back-off bolt. I had to drill a tad of the y38 ear bushings to get the stock is300 bolt thru using a christmas tree bit, btw. Anyway, I just finished my y38 swap, into a 2001 IS300 with a650e 5-speed auto, replacing a open M96 = 3.91:1. Without vehicle/tranny lifts, took (brutal) 13 hours. Pretty happy with the results, now learning how to drive all over again. BTW, take the 5 minutes to completely remove your rear sway bar (and install some TRD yellow or reds in there!)
13 brutal hours sans-lifts. Result: 0-60 is now 6.9 seconds previously was 7.3. A few things I've noticed: 1) what I thought was play in the bushing or driveline was probably something in my M96 Diff, even the 2-1 downshift does not kick/thump as hard and hard shifts from 2nd to third are way less clunky. Bear in mind my bushings looks good (~B+ - thankfully, as I don't have tools to remove the olds ones anyway. 2) The transmission gearing feels very different from before, about 200rpms higher engine speeds for previous wheel speeds. Makes 4th gear useful (Finally). NOTE: def have a loooong but thin (less than .65mm thick) 14mm BOX wrench (or one with an extender like the MUELLER-KUEPS 745100 WRENCH EXTENDER) to remove and install the four 14mm bolts at the driveline plate - not the kind of thing you want to strip at removal, or leave under torqued. I put some heat on the nut side of the rear prop-shaft plate (diff side) to get them off, and added a tad of red on the threads going in.
Good shit how did this work out? Also a stock is300 drive shafts are compatible with is300 lsd and finally what is300 models were equipped with an lsd wondering what's the biggest advantage of an lsd and didn't you could just pull those splines out from the diff they you did..did you have any problems or potential tears in the boots ?
I have to replace 2009 is250 rear differential it’s locked up car can’t move any tips I have feeling this is gonna be pain 🤦♂️ Shop quoted me 6hrs if labor $800 I can’t imagine it would take them 6hrs on lift
Not all of them, it was a option from factory to have a LSD or open diff, and there’s also different versions of LSD’s and open diffs between manuals and autos
@@zakkrick look on EBAY there's 2 in SoCal for less then $600 and in great shape. I'm about to order one....🤙😉 For my 05, along with an 06 IS350 steering wheel to do the swap.
I think you may have it the opposite way around. Yes, the M85 is 3.73 vs the M98 at 3.91, which means M85 has longer gear ratios. M98 should have better acceleration, but less top speed. Turbocharged applications may prefer the 3.73, since boost excels with longer gear ratios. The longer ratio rear-end is preferred on most transmissions except for the T56 which would suit most people with a differential final drive somewhere between 3.8-4.1.
@@sirachacha1955 took me a few hours to do laying on my back on the driveway. You don't need a new driveshaft or anything; it's a direct swap with your existing one.
Looks like a lot of work getting the shafts off the diff on these American IS300's. On the Euro IS200's it's just 4 nuts on each side that attach the shafts to the diff.
So why did you take out the 12 Allen bolts when the stub shafts pop out of the diff? Seems like a pain in the ass for no reason. Maybe I'm missing something
wait do you really not have to loosen those 12 bolts? bc I wanna buy a Y38 diff and that diff I'm buying doesn't come with the stub shaft. so I'm wondering can u just use a crowbar as he did in the vid to pry out the stub shaft and not have to waste time loosening those bolts.
I also am wondering about this if someone can explain the purpose of it.
@@gurpreetsoomal5408 Well... the side-gear-shafts will ultimately need removed from your old diff and over to the frs diff. Easier said than done while diff is in the car and axles are attached. It would be (was) way faster to undo 6 hex-socket-head-cap-screws on each side. Makes installation easier too. IF you are on a lift then pick your poison, but on jack stands plan to use a 8mm allen socket on those axles THERE (with the parking brake on at the right times). Safer with the diff out of the car to back off the side-gear-shafts using two longer bolts on opposite sides (against a brace on the diff): you don't want to damage any of the finer tolerances in the left/right spline section with uneven removal techniques (hammer/pry bars).
I was able to use the old snap rings, and the outer/only rubber oil seals were good on my y38 BUT these are worth getting if you're able to source them. I drained/filled the y38 with 75W90 synth AND lsd additive (about 1.25Q total). TWO Crush washers (90430-A0003) are prudent, torque back at ~35-39 ftlbs after drain/fill.
@@Bellgrande I would plan on it - unless you have parts and car lifts.
He was probably hedging a bet. For those of us with just jack stands plan to remove the axles first and the side-gear-shafts later (out of car) with 2 longer back-off bolt. I had to drill a tad of the y38 ear bushings to get the stock is300 bolt thru using a christmas tree bit, btw. Anyway, I just finished my y38 swap, into a 2001 IS300 with a650e 5-speed auto, replacing a open M96 = 3.91:1. Without vehicle/tranny lifts, took (brutal) 13 hours. Pretty happy with the results, now learning how to drive all over again. BTW, take the 5 minutes to completely remove your rear sway bar (and install some TRD yellow or reds in there!)
The LSD from a IS300 FITS INTO A newer is250 right?
Anthony Norris lemme know when you get an answer cause I need one
It does and the y38 lsd from the frs/brz/86 also fits the is300 and is250
13 brutal hours sans-lifts. Result: 0-60 is now 6.9 seconds previously was 7.3. A few things I've noticed: 1) what I thought was play in the bushing or driveline was probably something in my M96 Diff, even the 2-1 downshift does not kick/thump as hard and hard shifts from 2nd to third are way less clunky. Bear in mind my bushings looks good (~B+ - thankfully, as I don't have tools to remove the olds ones anyway. 2) The transmission gearing feels very different from before, about 200rpms higher engine speeds for previous wheel speeds. Makes 4th gear useful (Finally).
NOTE: def have a loooong but thin (less than .65mm thick) 14mm BOX wrench (or one with an extender like the MUELLER-KUEPS 745100 WRENCH EXTENDER) to remove and install the four 14mm bolts at the driveline plate - not the kind of thing you want to strip at removal, or leave under torqued. I put some heat on the nut side of the rear prop-shaft plate (diff side) to get them off, and added a tad of red on the threads going in.
I think i stripped mine😔😔 imma try to see if i could still do it tomorrow
So wait, can the Allen bolts stay in and just drop the diff?
Wat size are the 3
Allen bolts on the backside of the diff
Good shit how did this work out? Also a stock is300 drive shafts are compatible with is300 lsd and finally what is300 models were equipped with an lsd wondering what's the biggest advantage of an lsd and didn't you could just pull those splines out from the diff they you did..did you have any problems or potential tears in the boots ?
Will the m98 fit am automatic ?
Did you replace the diff subframe mount bushings as well?
I have to replace 2009 is250 rear differential it’s locked up car can’t move any tips
I have feeling this is gonna be pain 🤦♂️
Shop quoted me 6hrs if labor $800
I can’t imagine it would take them 6hrs on lift
i thought the is300 came stock wit a LSD?
Not all of them, it was a option from factory to have a LSD or open diff, and there’s also different versions of LSD’s and open diffs between manuals and autos
Is this before or after you did the manual trans swap out
Holy crap! ALL that work. With all the tools n facilities.... this diff was a bitch! Lolol
How do I know that it’s a LSD, if I go to any junkyard in my local yard. Is there any markings or numbers on the diff.
The tag on it will give you a number such as “m96” or “m98” the forums will tell you which is lsd
@@kenlyc3762 should swap out my m85 to a m98
@@zakkrick I have an m98 if you wanna trade?
M98 IS THE AUTO LSD. MAN LSD DIFF IS AN M85 LOOK IT UP IN THE IS.FORUM....
@@zakkrick look on EBAY there's 2 in SoCal for less then $600 and in great shape. I'm about to order one....🤙😉
For my 05, along with an 06 IS350 steering wheel to do the swap.
Wow you dont do a drift at the end.....
M98 has longer gears than the M85. The M85 is 3.73, better for acceleration.
I think you may have it the opposite way around. Yes, the M85 is 3.73 vs the M98 at 3.91, which means M85 has longer gear ratios. M98 should have better acceleration, but less top speed. Turbocharged applications may prefer the 3.73, since boost excels with longer gear ratios. The longer ratio rear-end is preferred on most transmissions except for the T56 which would suit most people with a differential final drive somewhere between 3.8-4.1.
Do you have a shop?
i have a garage at my shop but i work at a shop and some times use their hoist
what lsd is it?
its the m98 for an auto is300
Can the lsd frm the is98 fit sc400 93
I believe you need a mark 4 supra diff for the sc400/300
Man its so hard trying to find an M98 😕
I have one id sell
goocherrific really ? Can i get in contact with you
Sure shoot me an email. My name at Gmail dot com
use a BRZ diff instead its bolt on and cheaper just use BRZ diff bushing bolts for a perfect fit
@@asian380 i actually just picked one off of an FRS , ready to put it in does it matter if the frs was stick if im putting it into my auto ?
I don't that is a LSD.....tires as spinning in opposite directions @12:57 +
It locks under load.
Awesome. What was that shit you sprayed in the end. About to tackle my own M85 swap
That was PB-Blaster. Shit works amazingly for busting nuts loose
Hey did you have to get the rear end of the driveshaft to do you m85 swap
@@sirachacha1955 took me a few hours to do laying on my back on the driveway. You don't need a new driveshaft or anything; it's a direct swap with your existing one.
is your car manual?
Torsion
Time to shred some tires
Good video except super lame music
Time to shred some tires
i sent a couple set i should probably get a vid