That small peak in the impedance is caused by the cone itself resonating not the suspension, aluminium cone speaker has it higher, larger speakers have it lower. Try to ping the cone with something stiff, you hear two notes, lower is the mechanical resonance higher is the cone resonating. I've been 3dprinting some custom dustcaps and when badly designed they definitely show on the impedance graph. I've always tried to low pass filter the speaker before this point. And that's why I end up with lots of 3 way speakers with ridiculous crossovers. Otherwise, good video and much needed topic for inexperienced builders.
That impedance bump is produced by the cone, but it's a result of how well the suspension is implemented. If the cone is poorly terminated, the sound energy coming from the center of the cone to the edge will be strongly reflected back and create standing waves and resonant modes. I think you are describing cone break-up, which is indeed more prevalent in metal cones, but it's something else. For decent 7" drivers (like the ones in the video) cone break-up should happen in the 3-5 kHz region (not 1 kHz).
Thank you for this video because I don't build and analyze enclosures everyday and can't recall where I got my info from analyzing in DATS impedance smoothness. I have a peak that's @ 66 Hz and can't figure out why, with a new driver, in an old enclosure? New wine in old wine skins!! lol
What a great video! Very useful information about understanding impedance curves and how it is related to cabinet resonances!. I have a question related to a modifications I have been doing to my tower speakers. My speakers are made out os 1/2 inch MDF, so some time ago Indecided to add some reinforcement inside add into the side walls some custom cut Timbers glued in. I also glued some dampening foam all over the internal walls. Even that, there was a a noticeable resonance of the cabinet when testing the speakers with sine tones. Making this long story schort, I added poly fil ( know as vellón siliconado in Spanish) on top and bottom of the enclosure, in a very tight manner ( I mean pushing enough material to set it in place by its own). The results was so good at first instance that all resonances were gone, even the two peeks of the main woofer resonances. So I got a very smooth impedance curve.mI though it was good, but now Inhave realized that bass response in low frequency, about 80 hz to 100 hz is so loud that does not maths the overall frequency response and even when you ear music you realize that is too much bass. Any comments on this? Will be highly appreciated! Have a grete day!
I am using a datsv3 to test my 4th order enclosure in my car. I have 6 15" subwoofers. Do I need to connect the speakers together and test all at 1 time, test all individually and compare or is it ok to only test 1 of them to get the enclosure information?Thanks
Hello ... my speakers are 3ohm, my AVR SONY 7.2 channel 8-16 ohm , whats is solution ? Can increase impedance with resister from 3 ohm to 8 ohm is safe ?
I confess I have watched several of these videos about impedance, etc., but I still don’t understand what you are measuring, how you measured it, or why you measured it.
I’m far from an expert, but in basic terms impedance restricts the flow of electricity. In the context of speakers, higher impedance means it’s more ‘difficult’ to produce a given frequency as impedance gets higher. You can kinda think about impedance in two ways: how your amp functions with it, and how the speakers do. Ohms are a measurement of impedance, and it’s possible to design a speaker with absurdly low (or high) impedance that basically can’t be driven by any amp. In more realistic, normal scenarios impedance can tell you things that frequency response hides. We want smooth, predictable response from a driver but that’s not the reality, and impedance shows us the reality. What this means in practical terms is that we should know where there’s abnormalities in impedance, understand how to avoid making the problem worse, and also understand how boxes themselves impact the measurements. As for how to measure it, the industry standard is DATS (V2 or V3) it’s a $100 tool that measures a ton of parameters about speaker drivers in software.
So I'm looking at this software probably not very accurate. I filled in all the values and shoved the sub in a ported box 125L and the free air impedance is 4ohm but in the box it never drops below 8ohm according to the software. So would I use a 4ohm amp or an 8ohm amp? Or is it just bad software making it out to be 8ohm in box?
I don't know what software you are talking about, but placing a sub in a bass reflex box should not increase the "nominal impedance". Maybe you selected 2 drivers in series, and are not aware of. Maybe it's dual voice coil woofer and the spec sheet lists the Re parameter with the coils in series. Regardless if the resulting impedance is 4 or 8 ohms, if you get a 4 Ohm stable amp, it's good for both cases.
@@octobersky329 That is a dual 4 Ohm rated at 500W. Best thing to do is to get a single channel amp that can deliver 1 x 500W at 2 Ohms and wire the coils in parallel.
i tried so many 5.1, 2.1 market products non of them are satisfactory for music for movies etc sort of ok, is it because of those tiny satellites,for music i use my sony 90w rms 3 cd changer's speakers, replaced the tweeters with a 50w soft silk dome tweeter's with a 2.2uf polyester capacitor(electrolytic non polar & polyester sound very different even for the same value), the woofer had no series inductor nor any damping material in the box, made a stereo preamp of LF353 with a PAM 8610 class d with years of tuning to match the sound to my ears to suit daily listening to fm & bluetooth.
Secrets? Really? How about using word the word information, or what does impedance tells us about the driver? Why do quality vids need dumbass thumbnails.
This video could not have been more timely, I was just looking something up that you covered much more clearly in the video!
So so useful, thank you!!
This is the best explanation of this topic I’ve ever seen. Great work!
I don't have the knowledge or patience to build my own speakers but I admire those that do.
Awesome information!!! Greatly simplified!!! Thanks a lot 😊👍👍
3:51 PLEASE do all of your videos with this accent.
Super infrmativ, ca de obicei! Cheers!
That small peak in the impedance is caused by the cone itself resonating not the suspension, aluminium cone speaker has it higher, larger speakers have it lower. Try to ping the cone with something stiff, you hear two notes, lower is the mechanical resonance higher is the cone resonating. I've been 3dprinting some custom dustcaps and when badly designed they definitely show on the impedance graph. I've always tried to low pass filter the speaker before this point. And that's why I end up with lots of 3 way speakers with ridiculous crossovers.
Otherwise, good video and much needed topic for inexperienced builders.
You missed actually. 😂 ACTUALLY thanks for the info 😎
That impedance bump is produced by the cone, but it's a result of how well the suspension is implemented. If the cone is poorly terminated, the sound energy coming from the center of the cone to the edge will be strongly reflected back and create standing waves and resonant modes. I think you are describing cone break-up, which is indeed more prevalent in metal cones, but it's something else. For decent 7" drivers (like the ones in the video) cone break-up should happen in the 3-5 kHz region (not 1 kHz).
Well done, great video!
Thank you for this video because I don't build and analyze enclosures everyday and can't recall where I got my info from analyzing in DATS impedance smoothness. I have a peak that's @ 66 Hz and can't figure out why, with a new driver, in an old enclosure?
New wine in old wine skins!! lol
What a great video! Very useful information about understanding impedance curves and how it is related to cabinet resonances!. I have a question related to a modifications I have been doing to my tower speakers. My speakers are made out os 1/2 inch MDF, so some time ago Indecided to add some reinforcement inside add into the side walls some custom cut Timbers glued in. I also glued some dampening foam all over the internal walls. Even that, there was a a noticeable resonance of the cabinet when testing the speakers with sine tones. Making this long story schort, I added poly fil ( know as vellón siliconado in Spanish) on top and bottom of the enclosure, in a very tight manner ( I mean pushing enough material to set it in place by its own). The results was so good at first instance that all resonances were gone, even the two peeks of the main woofer resonances. So I got a very smooth impedance curve.mI though it was good, but now Inhave realized that bass response in low frequency, about 80 hz to 100 hz is so loud that does not maths the overall frequency response and even when you ear music you realize that is too much bass. Any comments on this? Will be highly appreciated! Have a grete day!
Stiffening without adding internal bracing and without countermeasures of internal volume reduction?
Thanks for explaining. It's a good one👍
Good video, rather helpful. It would be good to describe the effect of impedance peaks on electric and acoustic power.
cant really tune a amplifier to only work with a set impedance
great video. How does one deal with old flabby woofers? IE make them sound better?
Can that change under high power?
I am using a datsv3 to test my 4th order enclosure in my car. I have 6 15" subwoofers. Do I need to connect the speakers together and test all at 1 time, test all individually and compare or is it ok to only test 1 of them to get the enclosure information?Thanks
If they share the same enclosure they all need to be connected.
@@AudioJudgement ok. That's what I was thinking. I just wanted to be sure. Thanks for the help. I liked and subscribed.
Hello ... my speakers are 3ohm, my AVR SONY 7.2 channel 8-16 ohm , whats is solution ? Can increase impedance with resister from 3 ohm to 8 ohm is safe ?
I confess I have watched several of these videos about impedance, etc., but I still don’t understand what you are measuring, how you measured it, or why you measured it.
I’m far from an expert, but in basic terms impedance restricts the flow of electricity. In the context of speakers, higher impedance means it’s more ‘difficult’ to produce a given frequency as impedance gets higher.
You can kinda think about impedance in two ways: how your amp functions with it, and how the speakers do. Ohms are a measurement of impedance, and it’s possible to design a speaker with absurdly low (or high) impedance that basically can’t be driven by any amp.
In more realistic, normal scenarios impedance can tell you things that frequency response hides. We want smooth, predictable response from a driver but that’s not the reality, and impedance shows us the reality. What this means in practical terms is that we should know where there’s abnormalities in impedance, understand how to avoid making the problem worse, and also understand how boxes themselves impact the measurements.
As for how to measure it, the industry standard is DATS (V2 or V3) it’s a $100 tool that measures a ton of parameters about speaker drivers in software.
Great video. May I say, when you were putting on the 'akshually' voice it sounded like winnie the pooh lol.
So I'm looking at this software probably not very accurate. I filled in all the values and shoved the sub in a ported box 125L and the free air impedance is 4ohm but in the box it never drops below 8ohm according to the software. So would I use a 4ohm amp or an 8ohm amp? Or is it just bad software making it out to be 8ohm in box?
I don't know what software you are talking about, but placing a sub in a bass reflex box should not increase the "nominal impedance". Maybe you selected 2 drivers in series, and are not aware of. Maybe it's dual voice coil woofer and the spec sheet lists the Re parameter with the coils in series. Regardless if the resulting impedance is 4 or 8 ohms, if you get a 4 Ohm stable amp, it's good for both cases.
@@AudioJudgement awesome thank you. It is dvc so it's probably in series? Making it 8ohm?
@@octobersky329 what subwoofer driver is it exactly?
@@AudioJudgement Pioneer TS-A300D4 12″ 1500w DVC Subwoofer
@@octobersky329 That is a dual 4 Ohm rated at 500W. Best thing to do is to get a single channel amp that can deliver 1 x 500W at 2 Ohms and wire the coils in parallel.
i tried so many 5.1, 2.1 market products non of them are satisfactory for music for movies etc sort of ok, is it because of those tiny satellites,for music i use my sony 90w rms 3 cd changer's speakers, replaced the tweeters with a 50w soft silk dome tweeter's with a 2.2uf polyester capacitor(electrolytic non polar & polyester sound very different even for the same value), the woofer had no series inductor nor any damping material in the box, made a stereo preamp of LF353 with a PAM 8610 class d with years of tuning to match the sound to my ears to suit daily listening to fm & bluetooth.
induced by the breakup of the cone.
yeah, cool video. i like it.
video pro izmereniya XMAX!
Hello! Many danimms do not indicate XMAX. Please make a video about XMAX measurements!
Twin Peaks😁
Running speakers without ports eliminates all these problems.power consumption doesn't matter much as it's low.
It is a complicated concept
hahah that was good
Secrets? Really? How about using word the word information, or what does impedance tells us about the driver? Why do quality vids need dumbass thumbnails.