Doing a proper vacuum and pressure test is one of the biggest install issues. Lots of installers do not do them properly if at all. The company I worked for hired an installer the manager loved because he would install units is 2 hours. They would pay him for a full day no matter how long he worked for the day. Got lots of call backs from units that he installed.
Ill bet 2 hrs is time to unload the truck & clean up after lol I dont use sub crews that can & do 2 / 3 complete change outs per day ..always call backs ..1 per day is plenty .dont drag the job out of course but do it all right the 1 st time & hardly ever an call back ..Right ??
How are you going to inspect all of the ductwork to make sure it’s sized properly when the house is finished and the basement is finished with the old equipment sitting in a small unfinished equipment room? That needs to be done when the house is being built and most building contractors always take the cheapest route and cut corners. 99% of the homes we work in are between 20-100 years old and the ductwork is what it is because most customers are not going to right me a blank check to do major ductwork modifications to fix potential issues. I believe all the points mentioned in the video are valid and true but it needs to be directed at new construction home builders and installers also. The rest of us have to work with what’s already existing and most of the time it’s a shit sandwich with a customer who has a limited budget. I liked the video, keep up the good work.
The problem is the customer expects miracles from the technician giving them one day to install a whole system regardless of whether there was existing issues with the old system. The line set and ductwork are often reused because it’s expensive to replace them and time consuming. But these two items are also some of the biggest problems so your new system will suffer if they don’t replace them. I would at least flush the line set and check the ductwork for proper sizing and leaks.
Contractors are just as guilty if they allow a customer to tell them how to do the work. As long as it is all explained as to the risks involved in cutting corners and as long as the contractor isn't exposing themselves to liability and writes down what they suggest but customer declines, in writing, then you can always go back and point of the facts, "customer declined this or that". In many cases, its probably best to not take the job if a customer is cutting a bunch of corners and the performance is sacrificed giving the HVAC contractor a bad reputation. I'd say those jobs are not worth it if you are in business for the long run. Large HVAC companies who send out "salesmen" to do replacement quotes are also guilty of the same when it comes to allowing a customer to dictate a job. All they want to do is get a sale which in the long run turns sour plus, so much for all of the benefits we are supposed to be getting with the "new efficient" equipment. I've been there...I've walked away from folks who won't take the minimum professional advice and I have no regrets. There's a limit. Most 1 day replacements aren't done that well anyway...likely those have lots of issues.
@drewsbenmad We always look back at old construction etc. in Europe and America, how much pride and tallent!!! Last forever and the beauty of people who understand quality. SO WE PAY 16,000 FOR ONE DAY!!! CAN YOU IMAGINE IF A CONTRACTOR TOOK 2 DAYS WITH TWO GOOD MEN. WOULD THIS MAKE A COMPANY BETTER OR BROKE?? As a customer I find this compromise unfounded
@@drewsbenmad My experience has been to leave them alone I personally needed mine from scratch. My attack is open with easy access. I've never been a helicopter. I love watching good contractors who video. I know they are proud! The good ones always communicate with the customer. I'm not a contractor, but I've had some not so good experiences.
I move Commercial air for a living... cfm, velocity, duct sizing,... it's my jam. This man is 100% correct, install/sizing (cfm) is everything. Must Move the Air in every building;.. we can heat or cool the space later Awesome job Josh!
Exactly! That’s why I bought and installed my own system. So far it’s been working like a charm. HVAC is overrated! Between $9,000 and $15,000 for a system. It’s ridiculous! And then it works for 7 months like your case and you are hosed. You need an HVAC Tech to tell you something you can research on your own. I did all the calculations including a load calculation, come to find out that my system was undersized. So I upgraded from a 3 to 4 ton and it solved my upstairs room issue where the rooms were always warm and my old unit would run constantly. I installed new line set, Trane furnace, coil, and AC for under $6,100 including a couple of tools. It ain’t rocket science, just do some research and go for it!
@@elginmercado5082 You are right for many but not everyone is capable as you for various reasons. I am happy for you. Great to have contractors who cares.
@@elginmercado5082 what were the couple of tools you had to buy? I hope you don't expect a company to do an install for what you paid for the unit. Nobody is gonna work for free. Did you pump the unit down to at least 500 microns? I do hope your unit works great and last though
@@andysmith434 Hello sir, the tools I bought were: 1. Pipe bending tool, 2. Vacuum pump, 3. DIY guy recommended MICRON gage, 4. Staybrite 8, 5. Metal cutting shears, and a set of HVAC gages. No, I don’t expect for a company to do an install for the unit cost, but I also don’t expect to pay four grand above its price for the install. These folks what to charge like they are brain surgeons for something that is not difficult at all. I installed new lines because load calculations etc. called for a 4 ton unit. Old lines were too small and 30+ years old. Yes, the new lines were pressure tested and a proper vacuum was done reaching 500 and below. BTW, I used staybrite 8 for all the welds. I also had an issue with my upstairs rooms, always Luke warm, now it’s cold. Cold enough that blankets are required. Also, when I removed my old unit, I discovered that whoever did the install caped part of the indoor coil. The plenum should have been at 21” wide to accommodate the unit. Instead they capped 3” on top of the coil and left the plenum at 17” wide. From the outside it resembled a bell shape. However, once taken apart you could see the crap job they did. Any way, when it was all done I ended up spending $6,290.17. Better than paying $9,000 just for a DUCANE system - never heard of them - and lining the pockets of these HVAC folks. I have a new TRANE furnace, AC unit and indoor coil, new lines, all rated a 4 TON, some very cool tools that I didn’t have, oh and an extra 21lbs of R410A because I did manage to buy a container. It’s my opinion that install prices are inflated based on HVAC techs claiming it’s complicated. Thanks to the DIY HVAC Guy and his videos the process is explained and shows how simple it is. You just have to follow the NIKE slogan, Just do it!
You are correct!! I had a load j calculated by contractor. Big mistake Afterwards had a expert come and told me on hot days I'll be sorry I only have one supply in master He said two 6 inch would be correct. Also needed more return air. I would of paid another $1000 Also one downstairs duct is in hall between garage door and half bathroom. I shifted vent toward living space myself Tech had 3 way pointed to half bath. Still okay but feel like I need a small portable in master bed. Thank you Josh
Angry. Pissed. Mad.. Bought new Trane last summer. Company from Clinton Township MI installed. We called 2 days after install to complain about run time of unit and poor cooling. Same tech came out and said "low on refrigerate". WTF, just got installed. Just had checkup on unit done. Pressure 73. I demanded new unit and new install. Owner, coming this week to do. I'm a nurse. Yup, female. Just ask yourselves this HVAC guys: what would happen if I did my job as sloppy as most HVAC guys. You die, just as my new unit. I check and double check and have pride in providing excellent care for my patients. Do better!
Most doctors and nurses do fuck up all the time??? Lemons exist new cars, new ACs can have defects, shit happens. Grow up and realize not everything is perfect.
As sloppy as most hvac guys huh. Wow, way too assume every hvac person is a hack. That's like me visiting one bad Doctor. And saying all medical professionals are liars, scam artists and don't give a damn about patients. So, is that how you are at your work than since you assume the majority of us techs are complete pieces of 💩. Maybe not generalize the entirety of a group based off one experience.
Every new unit comes pre-sealed .. refrigerant already in it and ready to go.. if you were low on refrigerant than those guys who installed the unit did a sloppy job .. I’d leave a review on them .. especially if they don’t take care of the matter promptly!
I'm HVAC tech, male , and I'm not perfect like female nurses. I make mistakes. I had a few jobs where everything turned out great but had evap coils leak oil so overtime the unit gets low. That's not something I would catch on the initial day of installation. As long as the company finds the problem and gets it fixed no need to be overdramatic.
👍👍👍 Every topic mentioned is bang on point. I'm a novice at this. I very much like to educate myself regarding the "mechanical" systems within my home. This video is the first one online that covers everything that is required for a quality install/repair. Regarding the "air handling" point here, wow! How many in this trade don't use a manometer? It's baffling. The absolute most important "spec" on your furnace = TESP! - How do you know if your HVAC was ever tested for static pressure? - look at your furnace. If you have small plastic/rubber plugs (1/4"-3/8") on each side of your blower, your unit was tested! Note: TESP for your furnace is measured on the unit itself. Basically, after filter (in blower compartment) and the top of your unit where the furnace transitions to your ducting. If your #'s are out of range of the spec'd rating of your unit, good luck trying to get the correct #'s re: heat rise/cooling drop temp you should have. (and the snowball effect re: gas pressure/coolant pressure for your system to work efficiently the way it was designed to) Found this to be very informative!
In the manual: very important to put drip tray and air deflectors in correct position or take it out, depending on orientation of the air handler. Seems like most the units I take out missed that page in the instruction manual.
Exactly this. On my third round of cleaning an absolutely filthy evaporator coil I noticed that an interior baffle wasn't removed during installation. Thus there was even more crud trapped behind that panel. After a quick check of the manual I was able to remove that panel, which not only increased airflow to the coil (which was the original purpose), but finally allowed me to clean that area and make some significant progress in air quality.
I remember calling a supplier and asking for a downflow kit, the instructions pointed out. He said he had sold hundreds of that unit to different contractors and no one had ever asked for one.
Great info on duct work but on alot of these older homes you cannot tear up a whole house for new duct work. New construction ductwork is fubar alot of times also.
POE oil is hygroscopic which basically a moisture sponge. As long as the line set is properly sized and leak-free, a good RX-11 Flush can clean out the residual mineral oil sufficiently. Moisture & heat = acid formation in a refrigeration system regardless of lubricant.
It's pretty bad when 3 out of 4 AC companies don't even do a Manual J let alone a load calc. That was my recent experience. And the one that did the Manual J was a bit half-hearted about it. They all ended up saying 4 ton, so I went with the lowest bidder with the longest track record and the best reviews. Overall happy with my Carrier heat pump package unit, plus got the $2k tax credit.
Good info. The AC tech I finally hired seemed very competent and has good reviews (selected in part because he's local, and I thought he would be more involved, but he met his crew and then left during the install), but he only recently started his company and may be overwhelmed with all the new work and trying to do so much himself. He wanted to install a 4 ton but a larger company quoted for a 3 ton. In the end, I had him put back a 3.5 ton and it is short cycling all the time. He installed a hard start kit on the new compressor, but now I'm wondering if that may cause problems in the long run. It's so frustrating to try and make the best decisions when spending $9000 for a new system, yet not convinced the system was installed correctly. And how can I really know at this point?
@silvertbird1 I understand your frustration. What you’re describing is exactly why I started making the videos and my website. There are so many in our industry that put up a good front, but are still cutting corners behind the scenes
My house in Washington state is 1650 sf with 2 tons of heating cooling. Keeps the house temps great summer thru winter. My exterior walls are 2 by 6.
Месяц назад+2
I just had a new 5 ton system installed, cost $13,500. After they were done, I asked for the manual. The installer said there wasn't one. I went outside and rummaged through all the boxes and debris and found the manual still in its plastic wrap thrown out with the garbage. The installer also mounted the new thermostat to the wall crooked.
Thanks for the great care and going the extra miles to do the right thing for the right reasons. I imagine you could never do enough research or enough details. Bit it's great that you are open to trying and working hard at it. Even though many people do not have the time to appreciate that care and developed skill level
This home owner has a digital manometer and an old timey u-tube manometer. I used them to check the gas pressure on my 1964 gas furnace, after replacing the combination gas valve.
I wish i could have found a tech/company like yours. I got a lot of quotes, many just had no clue. Some afraid of the project ( wanted a quick payout). I had to get moving with hvac install so i ended up with what was the best at the time. Annoying for me was them sending out a sales guy, just for them to have to send out a tech for me to re-ask questions. Removed all old duct and unit. Within a year the evap coil got a pin leak in it. I had unf steped out, so i missed the vac and charge process. As a homeowner you trust that the pro will do the job acurately and with quality. I had the load calc done prior to estimates. Many would never ask, many more would take a copy just out of courtesy. Or look at it and tell me it was to small still.
HVAC guy here 46 years Most customers who want over size are correct because their original units were undersized 1/2 ton never a problem regardless only helps regardless of moisture removal
I think you're right that you can normally do that without too much thought. I'd bet you also probably don't worry too much because you know where u can enlarge, add, dump or damper if needed. I don't think hes talking about you. I think hes more talking about the guys that just slap in a system without thinking, as long as it cools and heats for a while.
@frankvizzare What about oversized with manual dampers on everything? Or does the moisture cause an issue with over sizing from low airflow to duct surface area?
@@davidth.o.g.2229 manual dampers in residential never seem like a good idea as the customer will not even know they are their and would be up to the tech to balance and trust everything is right so have never even considered that
I just had a new Daikin Fit system installed Wednesday(Its Saturday),and I’ve been worrying about did they do it right issues. Most expensive A/C system I’ve bought. You trust they will do it right. This company is owned by my dogs Veterinarian and has a great BBB rating. So far my home has never been able to be this cool and comfortable so they probably did a good job. For a company I’d never heard about its amazing. Absolutely quiet. Can’t hear the outside unit and it’s right between my bedroom window and living room windows. I have a Span circuit breaker panel,which reports current use through an app on my phone and I’m watching how much power the A/C uses and it’s 30% or more less. I live in the DFW area and with today’s climate change temperatures of 100 degrees plus from June to October,having good A/C is a MUST!
Number 3 was a mind blown for me. I know we will need to upgrade when we get a new one as our current one was put in for heating and cooling just an upstairs and we are going to have our upstairs and downstairs all heated and cooled now. But, I wouldn't have thought about the load calculations needing to be done to think about the upgrades of the house which we are having done before this upgrade.
Hello, I have a mobile home with a furnace that works very well in winter, I hired a technician to install AC in the unit, but the installation does not work properly, the technician says it is a problem with the ducts, if the heater works very well in winter could it be the ducts causing the AC problem or is it just an excuse from the technician to get out of the problem?
Will you travel to southeast Georgia? I've got a 4300sqft 1885 victorian home with 10' and 12' ceilings and 8' foot original windows that will never be replaced. My attic unit was installed before i bought the house about 8 years ago. It has been leaking into my ceiling for years and we just found out this summer. My package unit downstairs was installed-i think it might have been 3 years ago. It has had issues since. Last 2 years it has had leaks in the copper tubing from vibration. That's what i was told. The guy that installed it owns a long standing company but he didn't show up this year when he said he would and we had already been a week without air. I called another company that came right out. The installation of both units leaves much to be desired. Duct work was never changed or mentioned, and one of the units was an old commercial unit estimated to be 25-30 years old. We're in a rural town and its hard to find anyone who does their job properly. We've been using a portable a/c unit upstairs and running fans just to keep it cool because the units can't keep up or weren't installed properly.
So many hvac techs preaching the right way to install and service systems yet every tech that i have dealt with over the years cuts corners on installs or misdiagnoses the problem. My last install was done by a company in business over a 100yrs and it was a complete shit show.
I could add line routing. Once they're in, there's no relocating without pumping down the system and all that jazz which is going to be costly. So if it's in the way of future renovations, too bad. You'll just have to drop that ceiling or raise that floor or put that new wall elsewhere or cut around the deck board, etc etc. These things should be put in to be out of the way and not become a future inconvenience. The installer needs some sense but also should talk to the homeowner and maybe an architect. I can't tell you how many stupid routings I've seen that looked like installer convenience was at the top of the priority list.
I’m building a new house with a heat pump for the HVAC. I noticed on the thermostat it doesn’t have “AUX Heat” on it and only emergency heat. How would I know if my system would have auxiliary heat if the heat pump can’t keep up with the desired indoor temperature? Would it just say “emergency heat” whenever the electric heat strips turn on? Thank you to whomever comments
IF you only have electric heatstrip as backup then 'Emergency Heat' is fine/normal on thermostat. 'Aux Heat' would be if you ALSO had like a propane furnace in addition to the electric heatstrip.
@@garyr.8116 Gotcha. There is electric heat strips so even though there’s no “aux heat” on the thermostat, if the heat pump can’t keep up with the heat demand, the electric strips will kick on automatically to help support the heat pump?
@@ericb.8119 Correct. Also for 'defrost' in the wintertime (when the system automatically reverses itself to defrost the outside coil, it will turn the electric heatstrips ON for a few minutes so that it doesn't blow quite so cold air on the inside.)
We have a running joke every 3rd change out gets a 5 ton. Hard to talk a homeowner thats been uncomfortable for years into fixing issues not just adding more tons
PROPER DUCTWORK IS M-O-R-E IMPORTANT than a fancy high efficiency system. I have worked for companies and had them sell “New duck Work “ on a reference I made to the customer, and they went back with literally the exact same thing🤯. And then insult to injury don’t even set the blower speed correctly ?!!?? 🤯🤯🤯Exactly 2% of service people correctly evaluate ductwork! Make no mistake, it is the absolute most important thing on that system. Time and time again I see companies replace systems and don’t address ductwork! And often times, you don’t have to completely replace it. I find a lot of times a couple tweaks on a few runs can make all the difference in the world. Great video by the way.
My HVAC system was installed less than 5 years ago and has been working fine (still works okay). However, for the past couple of summers, I've noticed an issue with the AC unit. I set the temperature to 75°F, and it cools the house to the desired temperature before turning off. After about 5 or 10 minutes, it turns back on, runs for 10 to 15 minutes, and then turns off again. This cycle repeats every 5 to 10 minutes. I've checked the condensation line and ductwork, and everything seems fine. I also replaced the thermostat with a smart thermostat to monitor its activity. I’ve checked the following components, and there are no issues: • Compressor • Drain line • Ductwork • Thermostat (replaced with a smart thermostat) • Return air What could be wrong with the system? Is it normal for an AC unit to operate like this? My primary concern is the high electricity bills each month due to this issue. Also, I'm worried that the unit might wear out quickly, leading to bigger problems down the road. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Just remember on manual j calculations "Garbage in equals Garbage out. Without doing blower door testing, the infiltration rate can only be guessed and also duct leakage testing needs to be done.
I'm in another trade but it drives me nuts when I have guys applying for a job. I ask them about experience and they always scowl and tell me how many years they have been in the trade. I have seen so many guys doing it wrong for years. I always ask those guys how they would handle a situation and there are always more than one way to skin a cat. They skip steps, take short cuts because they are lazy and set in their ways. I point things out and their reaction is nobody does that and it's not necessary. Thankfully they always tell me who they are and I would never hire these clowns.
@@NewHVACGuide Yup. Both our fields are constantly changing with technology. You have to be willing to learn new ways of doing things. Some guys just don't have that in them.
always always always do An Load calculation but @ very least ck duct work & determine whats its unloading @ the Plenums vr what its pulling back always sometime duct work esp an added return is needed & necessary & supplies also ...dont blow enough cfms if its not receiving enough cfms
Hey dude, quick question. I have an 80 percent furnace in my basement. I need to move my furnace in my basement so I can finish the basement out, can I vent it out the side of my house? I have an inducer motor on the furnace, just can’t seem to find a clear answer. The area where I’ll be venting it out of does not have any windows or openings around it.
I started hvac trade in 1985 as installer. Company I worked for overloaded schedule so much that if I did all you say here I would have been fired. All these companies want speed over quality. It's all about money
I was watching some other channel where a guy brazed in a new accumulator without any flow (no nitrogen)... He said he was 'tired'... Of course, the negative effects come later, so he was able to scam his customer into thinking he had a good technician...
Oh okay, let me have you come out and do a static pressure check on my new house. To find out that the duct work is not correct. what are we going to do completely rip out all of the ceilings and walls in a brand new home to replace a duct work with bigger duct work that won't fit inside of the walls or ceilings.
@@NewHVACGuide With a evacuation it will boil off any moisture that will be in the small amount of air that is introduced upon installation even if it not triple evacuated.
Well main problem in this industry. Mr. Johnson gets contractor license from the state rent it to Migel. Migel hires illegal Juan and Jose to install the unit. Every home owner should ask installers state issued license and EPA certificate. Avoid Classic American way....
Much the same way my house was built. Guy drives around and pulls up to the illegals job fair (corner of some street, USA) shakes a bottle of booze and says, "Who wants to help me wire, plumb, build a house?"
Omg I have ISO’s with my ac unit the blower don’t stop when the ac unit stops so the guy said is my main board that wasn’t working so I need a new one he saids 😢 but I don’t know anything about ac units now I need to know how much is the going to cost me I just paid $500 for this guy to add Freon to my unit and now the blower doesn’t stop when the you unit stops and the main board😢😢😢
Hiw long should a unit last? Well out TK units run for a good 20 years until the on road equipment they are mounted to go out of service due to age. Changing parts as needed. These are subject to severe road vibrations, temperature swings, and harsh invironments. But they run for 20 years. Yes the new equipment cools quicker and better. Thats technology. And there are bad versions. Currently fighting compresor burnouts from the newest design; factory sealed. Properly maintained and repaired, HVAC should last a long time.
Load calculation mistake= cutting down a huge tree infront of your home that gave shade from 12pm-6pm and thinking yoi don't need a new load calculation ..
@@NewHVACGuide no but I been watching alot of hvac videos and it's very interesting how many companies don't even look at the duck work and do a load calculation when installing a new system. Your video is awesome brother God bless. I'll be saving it to my favorites.
Video after video of "professionals" bashing other "professionals". All these videos do is make me even more worried about having work done by anyone. It's such an expensive item and apparently every HVAC guy, except for you of course, is a hack. I'm basically to the point where I'm going to learn as much as I can and do the work myself. Sounds like I've got just as good of a chance at getting it right as all these "professionals".
HVAC guy here doing it for over 24 years now... I agree that installation has to do a lot with performance, but GOODMAN is still trash no matter how thorough and how good you install it.
I want my vents to blow as hard as a hair dryer! lol Upping your capacity 1/2 ton generally won't give you problems. More than that can easily cause you problems. Remember, as a unit ages, it's CAPACITY goes down. As the climate heats up your AC needs will go up too. Temperature clamp? LOL. Mine are my thumbs and index fingers. Works like a champ! Old timer taught me that one. HVAC system should last a lifetime. Literally. Designed obsolescence just makes companies richer and you poorer. I notices the author did not discuss return air temperature and supply air temperature at the vents. Hmm.... You want no less than 18-22 deg F difference.
@@gregpayton6935climate change is real. The climate has always changed. The debate lies in the cause and whether we can affect it, or change it. The argument I use is: If climate change is the existential threat to civilization that “they” say it is how does it make sense to export our manufacturing jobs to the biggest polluters on the planet?
@@bondpit8750 it's called weather and you we can't change it. The West is taxing themselves stupid while countries like China/India dgaf. There is always a boogey man to scare the sheeple. The 70s it was global cooling and the impending ice age. The 80s was acid rain and the ozone. Since the 90s it is always '10 more years ' and the the coastline will rise x amount of feet. All the while the people that are telling us and making stupid laws are buying beach front property. It's a huge scam, wake up!
Titled “HVAC Guide for Homeowners”, but learned nothing that would be helpful to a homeowner. Lots of complaints about HVAC techs. Sound like you guys need to clean up your industry.
This is the second type of videos I’ve seen HVAC TECH’S SUCK & THIS IS WHY I’m all for educating the homeowners and customers but calling your own out on a decent size channel is pretty crappy in my opinion. In my opinion this is a way for you to get clicks views and subs nope it’s also for you to run a commercial in the middle of this video!! A homeowner should see this and should know your talking out of your butt to sell a master class lol I’ve been in the trade for over a decade and any tech that sees this will understand and so should you!!
Well I became interested because some of this and more is happening to me right now via a complete failure to do almost anything at all correctly per the frickin instructions let alone checking load or ducting...almost everything was done incorrectly. The only reason we used the HVAC guy was because he was recommended by a lic. electrician who redid our house with all new breaker panel etc., etc. and we were new to ALL of this. I believe the guy took the rebate we should have recieved and when repeatedly asked for an invoice, he'd say, "Oh yeah, I'll have to get that to you." It never happened and he became the flakiest person I've ever known. If I don't get paid from his bond, I'm 100% suing his ass. There's more but, I'll end there. I'm grateful for a video like this and if a follow up about the correct steps to take to go after the person's bond were made, I'd be more than grateful for that too. I'm documenting all and have a new HVAC company that is doing the same on my 1st invoice so far. So screw whomever doesn't like the infomative video.
@@Anon-oy5gbAgreed!! I've like, subscribed, and obviously commented now. I'll be looking at past videos and looking forward to future ones because I'm in a similar situation as you it sounds like where I was royally screwed. My HVAC guy mistakenly took my kindness for weakness and I will have recourse, somehow someway. Thank you HVAC Guide For Homeowners👍👍
@@GG-iu8ut I got so fed up & annoyed with HVAC techs from the home-warranty company that I went to the community college to take a HVAC class. I got my EPA 608 certification, bought a recovery machine, vacuum pump, refrigerant, nitrogen tank, manometer, etc. to maintain my own system. At the very least I can now observe an installation & point out what is being done improperly, or not done at all. To me the investment was well worth it.
Doing a proper vacuum and pressure test is one of the biggest install issues. Lots of installers do not do them properly if at all. The company I worked for hired an installer the manager loved because he would install units is 2 hours. They would pay him for a full day no matter how long he worked for the day. Got lots of call backs from units that he installed.
Ill bet 2 hrs is time to unload the truck & clean up after lol I dont use sub crews that can & do 2 / 3 complete change outs per day ..always call backs ..1 per day is plenty .dont drag the job out of course but do it all right the 1 st time & hardly ever an call back ..Right ??
My company was paying for full day of installers finished and had to stop because quality was poor
How are you going to inspect all of the ductwork to make sure it’s sized properly when the house is finished and the basement is finished with the old equipment sitting in a small unfinished equipment room?
That needs to be done when the house is being built and most building contractors always take the cheapest route and cut corners.
99% of the homes we work in are between 20-100 years old and the ductwork is what it is because most customers are not going to right me a blank check to do major ductwork modifications to fix potential issues.
I believe all the points mentioned in the video are valid and true but it needs to be directed at new construction home builders and installers also. The rest of us have to work with what’s already existing and most of the time it’s a shit sandwich with a customer who has a limited budget.
I liked the video, keep up the good work.
The problem is the customer expects miracles from the technician giving them one day to install a whole system regardless of whether there was existing issues with the old system. The line set and ductwork are often reused because it’s expensive to replace them and time consuming. But these two items are also some of the biggest problems so your new system will suffer if they don’t replace them. I would at least flush the line set and check the ductwork for proper sizing and leaks.
All good points. Fast may not always be right.
Contractors are just as guilty if they allow a customer to tell them how to do the work. As long as it is all explained as to the risks involved in cutting corners and as long as the contractor isn't exposing themselves to liability and writes down what they suggest but customer declines, in writing, then you can always go back and point of the facts, "customer declined this or that". In many cases, its probably best to not take the job if a customer is cutting a bunch of corners and the performance is sacrificed giving the HVAC contractor a bad reputation. I'd say those jobs are not worth it if you are in business for the long run. Large HVAC companies who send out "salesmen" to do replacement quotes are also guilty of the same when it comes to allowing a customer to dictate a job. All they want to do is get a sale which in the long run turns sour plus, so much for all of the benefits we are supposed to be getting with the "new efficient" equipment.
I've been there...I've walked away from folks who won't take the minimum professional advice and I have no regrets. There's a limit. Most 1 day replacements aren't done that well anyway...likely those have lots of issues.
I let the customer know that I take days to do an install. I also show them every step if they're interested or what was accomplished that day.
@drewsbenmad
We always look back at old construction etc. in Europe and America, how much pride and tallent!!!
Last forever and the beauty of people who understand quality.
SO WE PAY 16,000 FOR ONE DAY!!!
CAN YOU IMAGINE IF A CONTRACTOR TOOK 2 DAYS WITH TWO GOOD MEN.
WOULD THIS MAKE A COMPANY BETTER OR BROKE??
As a customer I find this compromise unfounded
@@drewsbenmad
My experience has been to leave them alone
I personally needed mine from scratch.
My attack is open with easy access.
I've never been a helicopter.
I love watching good contractors who video.
I know they are proud!
The good ones always communicate with the customer.
I'm not a contractor, but
I've had some not so good experiences.
I move Commercial air for a living... cfm, velocity, duct sizing,... it's my jam.
This man is 100% correct, install/sizing (cfm) is everything. Must Move the Air in every building;.. we can heat or cool the space later
Awesome job Josh!
Send me an email. I’ve got a question for ya!
@@NewHVACGuide did you get my email?
Man, Thank you so much for the info. So much to learn, even though I've been doing this for a while. It's a never ending learning process.
I paid for a new system and broke down with in 7 months 😢. Must of the things that need to be done were ignored. You are 100% right.
Exactly! That’s why I bought and installed my own system. So far it’s been working like a charm. HVAC is overrated! Between $9,000 and $15,000 for a system. It’s ridiculous! And then it works for 7 months like your case and you are hosed. You need an HVAC Tech to tell you something you can research on your own. I did all the calculations including a load calculation, come to find out that my system was undersized. So I upgraded from a 3 to 4 ton and it solved my upstairs room issue where the rooms were always warm and my old unit would run constantly. I installed new line set, Trane furnace, coil, and AC for under $6,100 including a couple of tools. It ain’t rocket science, just do some research and go for it!
@@elginmercado5082 You are right for many but not everyone is capable as you for various reasons. I am happy for you. Great to have contractors who cares.
@@elginmercado5082 what were the couple of tools you had to buy? I hope you don't expect a company to do an install for what you paid for the unit. Nobody is gonna work for free. Did you pump the unit down to at least 500 microns? I do hope your unit works great and last though
@@andysmith434 Hello sir, the tools I bought were: 1. Pipe bending tool, 2. Vacuum pump, 3. DIY guy recommended MICRON gage, 4. Staybrite 8, 5. Metal cutting shears, and a set of HVAC gages. No, I don’t expect for a company to do an install for the unit cost, but I also don’t expect to pay four grand above its price for the install. These folks what to charge like they are brain surgeons for something that is not difficult at all. I installed new lines because load calculations etc. called for a 4 ton unit. Old lines were too small and 30+ years old. Yes, the new lines were pressure tested and a proper vacuum was done reaching 500 and below. BTW, I used staybrite 8 for all the welds. I also had an issue with my upstairs rooms, always Luke warm, now it’s cold. Cold enough that blankets are required. Also, when I removed my old unit, I discovered that whoever did the install caped part of the indoor coil. The plenum should have been at 21” wide to accommodate the unit. Instead they capped 3” on top of the coil and left the plenum at 17” wide. From the outside it resembled a bell shape. However, once taken apart you could see the crap job they did. Any way, when it was all done I ended up spending $6,290.17. Better than paying $9,000 just for a DUCANE system - never heard of them - and lining the pockets of these HVAC folks.
I have a new TRANE furnace, AC unit and indoor coil, new lines, all rated a 4 TON, some very cool tools that I didn’t have, oh and an extra 21lbs of R410A because I did manage to buy a container. It’s my opinion that install prices are inflated based on HVAC techs claiming it’s complicated. Thanks to the DIY HVAC Guy and his videos the process is explained and shows how simple it is. You just have to follow the NIKE slogan, Just do it!
You are correct!!
I had a load j calculated by contractor.
Big mistake
Afterwards had a expert come and told me on hot days I'll be sorry I only have one supply in master
He said two 6 inch would be correct.
Also needed more return air.
I would of paid another $1000
Also one downstairs duct is in hall between garage door and half bathroom.
I shifted vent toward living space myself
Tech had 3 way pointed to half bath.
Still okay but feel like I need a small portable in master bed.
Thank you Josh
Angry. Pissed. Mad.. Bought new Trane last summer. Company from Clinton Township MI installed. We called 2 days after install to complain about run time of unit and poor cooling. Same tech came out and said "low on refrigerate". WTF, just got installed. Just had checkup on unit done. Pressure 73. I demanded new unit and new install. Owner, coming this week to do. I'm a nurse. Yup, female. Just ask yourselves this HVAC guys: what would happen if I did my job as sloppy as most HVAC guys. You die, just as my new unit. I check and double check and have pride in providing excellent care for my patients. Do better!
Most doctors and nurses do fuck up all the time??? Lemons exist new cars, new ACs can have defects, shit happens. Grow up and realize not everything is perfect.
As sloppy as most hvac guys huh. Wow, way too assume every hvac person is a hack. That's like me visiting one bad Doctor. And saying all medical professionals are liars, scam artists and don't give a damn about patients. So, is that how you are at your work than since you assume the majority of us techs are complete pieces of 💩. Maybe not generalize the entirety of a group based off one experience.
Great analogy! What company please so I know who not to call.
Every new unit comes pre-sealed .. refrigerant already in it and ready to go.. if you were low on refrigerant than those guys who installed the unit did a sloppy job .. I’d leave a review on them .. especially if they don’t take care of the matter promptly!
I'm HVAC tech, male , and I'm not perfect like female nurses. I make mistakes. I had a few jobs where everything turned out great but had evap coils leak oil so overtime the unit gets low. That's not something I would catch on the initial day of installation. As long as the company finds the problem and gets it fixed no need to be overdramatic.
I agree, companies have people installing before they can spell air conditioning. I still maintain the biggest problem is lack of proper training.
The real problem is that these bigger companies started hiring helpers and then give them the least amount of training to get them a epa card.
👍👍👍
Every topic mentioned is bang on point.
I'm a novice at this.
I very much like to educate myself regarding the "mechanical" systems within my home.
This video is the first one online that covers everything that is required for a quality install/repair.
Regarding the "air handling" point here, wow!
How many in this trade don't use a manometer? It's baffling.
The absolute most important "spec" on your furnace = TESP!
- How do you know if your HVAC was ever tested for static pressure?
- look at your furnace. If you have small plastic/rubber plugs (1/4"-3/8") on each side of your blower, your unit was tested!
Note:
TESP for your furnace is measured on the unit itself.
Basically, after filter (in blower compartment) and the top of your unit where the furnace transitions to your ducting.
If your #'s are out of range of the spec'd rating of your unit, good luck trying to get the correct #'s re: heat rise/cooling drop temp you should have. (and the snowball effect re: gas pressure/coolant pressure for your system to work efficiently the way it was designed to)
Found this to be very informative!
In the manual: very important to put drip tray and air deflectors in correct position or take it out, depending on orientation of the air handler. Seems like most the units I take out missed that page in the instruction manual.
Exactly this. On my third round of cleaning an absolutely filthy evaporator coil I noticed that an interior baffle wasn't removed during installation. Thus there was even more crud trapped behind that panel. After a quick check of the manual I was able to remove that panel, which not only increased airflow to the coil (which was the original purpose), but finally allowed me to clean that area and make some significant progress in air quality.
I remember calling a supplier and asking for a downflow kit, the instructions pointed out. He said he had sold hundreds of that unit to different contractors and no one had ever asked for one.
Great info on duct work but on alot of these older homes you cannot tear up a whole house for new duct work. New construction ductwork is fubar alot of times also.
POE oil is hygroscopic which basically a moisture sponge. As long as the line set is properly sized and leak-free, a good RX-11 Flush can clean out the residual mineral oil sufficiently. Moisture & heat = acid formation in a refrigeration system regardless of lubricant.
It's pretty bad when 3 out of 4 AC companies don't even do a Manual J let alone a load calc. That was my recent experience. And the one that did the Manual J was a bit half-hearted about it. They all ended up saying 4 ton, so I went with the lowest bidder with the longest track record and the best reviews. Overall happy with my Carrier heat pump package unit, plus got the $2k tax credit.
Good info. The AC tech I finally hired seemed very competent and has good reviews (selected in part because he's local, and I thought he would be more involved, but he met his crew and then left during the install), but he only recently started his company and may be overwhelmed with all the new work and trying to do so much himself. He wanted to install a 4 ton but a larger company quoted for a 3 ton. In the end, I had him put back a 3.5 ton and it is short cycling all the time. He installed a hard start kit on the new compressor, but now I'm wondering if that may cause problems in the long run. It's so frustrating to try and make the best decisions when spending $9000 for a new system, yet not convinced the system was installed correctly. And how can I really know at this point?
Increase thermostat hysteresis.
@@elgringoecwhat does this mean
@silvertbird1 I understand your frustration. What you’re describing is exactly why I started making the videos and my website. There are so many in our industry that put up a good front, but are still cutting corners behind the scenes
@@src4409
Difference between turn on temp and turn off temp
My house in Washington state is 1650 sf with 2 tons of heating cooling. Keeps the house temps great summer thru winter. My exterior walls are 2 by 6.
I just had a new 5 ton system installed, cost $13,500. After they were done, I asked for the manual. The installer said there wasn't one. I went outside and rummaged through all the boxes and debris and found the manual still in its plastic wrap thrown out with the garbage. The installer also mounted the new thermostat to the wall crooked.
Yep. Just remember-you picked them.
Glad I’m just a supermarket refrigeration service tech lol
Thanks for the great care and going the extra miles to do the right thing for the right reasons. I imagine you could never do enough research or enough details. Bit it's great that you are open to trying and working hard at it.
Even though many people do not have the time to appreciate that care and developed skill level
Thanks for this!
My pleasure!
Harrison in Smithfield doesn't even open the instruction packet.
Lots and lots of problems.
This home owner has a digital manometer and an old timey u-tube manometer. I used them to check the gas pressure on my 1964 gas furnace, after replacing the combination gas valve.
Wow!
Hey Josh I have a 410a ac unit 3.5 ton is there a replacement for it and what replacement should I use or better to use
We have a trilevel we turn the air vents off on the main floor to push the air upstairs. Is this a problem?
I wish i could have found a tech/company like yours. I got a lot of quotes, many just had no clue. Some afraid of the project ( wanted a quick payout).
I had to get moving with hvac install so i ended up with what was the best at the time.
Annoying for me was them sending out a sales guy, just for them to have to send out a tech for me to re-ask questions.
Removed all old duct and unit.
Within a year the evap coil got a pin leak in it. I had unf steped out, so i missed the vac and charge process. As a homeowner you trust that the pro will do the job acurately and with quality.
I had the load calc done prior to estimates. Many would never ask, many more would take a copy just out of courtesy. Or look at it and tell me it was to small still.
HVAC guy here 46 years
Most customers who want over size are correct because their original units were undersized 1/2 ton never a problem regardless only helps regardless of moisture removal
Exactly!
I think you're right that you can normally do that without too much thought. I'd bet you also probably don't worry too much because you know where u can enlarge, add, dump or damper if needed. I don't think hes talking about you. I think hes more talking about the guys that just slap in a system without thinking, as long as it cools and heats for a while.
Can’t just over size in south Florida… moisture problem city. Undersized ductwork and poor load calc design all over this state
@frankvizzare
What about oversized with manual dampers on everything? Or does the moisture cause an issue with over sizing from low airflow to duct surface area?
@@davidth.o.g.2229 manual dampers in residential never seem like a good idea as the customer will not even know they are their and would be up to the tech to balance and trust everything is right so have never even considered that
I just had a new Daikin Fit system installed Wednesday(Its Saturday),and I’ve been worrying about did they do it right issues. Most expensive A/C system I’ve bought. You trust they will do it right. This company is owned by my dogs Veterinarian and has a great BBB rating. So far my home has never been able to be this cool and comfortable so they probably did a good job. For a company I’d never heard about its amazing. Absolutely quiet. Can’t hear the outside unit and it’s right between my bedroom window and living room windows. I have a Span circuit breaker panel,which reports current use through an app on my phone and I’m watching how much power the A/C uses and it’s 30% or more less. I live in the DFW area and with today’s climate change temperatures of 100 degrees plus from June to October,having good A/C is a MUST!
Wow. That's a good review!
Join us on Tuesday for our live show!
🌟🤗✅GREAT Information for homeowners! I want the air unit installed properly, I don’t want problems later.
They didnt tighten up the expansion valve circuit in the air handler on a new install. Leaked all the freon out :( was not very happy.
My unit is less than 5 years old. It has needed fixed every year. The last 2 years it has needed brazed and recharged twice.
Number 3 was a mind blown for me. I know we will need to upgrade when we get a new one as our current one was put in for heating and cooling just an upstairs and we are going to have our upstairs and downstairs all heated and cooled now. But, I wouldn't have thought about the load calculations needing to be done to think about the upgrades of the house which we are having done before this upgrade.
I hope it helped!
Join us on Tuesday for our live show!
www.youtube.com/@hvacguideliveshow
Are yall required to have a load calculation? In NC we have to have one, however the inspectors don’t ask for them or duct calculations.
Hello, I have a mobile home with a furnace that works very well in winter, I hired a technician to install AC in the unit, but the installation does not work properly, the technician says it is a problem with the ducts, if the heater works very well in winter could it be the ducts causing the AC problem or is it just an excuse from the technician to get out of the problem?
i had an hvac rep working up a quote for my house, said that the duct work was TOO LARGE ! and said it had to be downsized......nope.
that would definitely be outside the norm. Get a second opinion!
Will you travel to southeast Georgia? I've got a 4300sqft 1885 victorian home with 10' and 12' ceilings and 8' foot original windows that will never be replaced. My attic unit was installed before i bought the house about 8 years ago. It has been leaking into my ceiling for years and we just found out this summer. My package unit downstairs was installed-i think it might have been 3 years ago. It has had issues since. Last 2 years it has had leaks in the copper tubing from vibration. That's what i was told. The guy that installed it owns a long standing company but he didn't show up this year when he said he would and we had already been a week without air. I called another company that came right out. The installation of both units leaves much to be desired. Duct work was never changed or mentioned, and one of the units was an old commercial unit estimated to be 25-30 years old. We're in a rural town and its hard to find anyone who does their job properly. We've been using a portable a/c unit upstairs and running fans just to keep it cool because the units can't keep up or weren't installed properly.
Great video and advice! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thank you!
So many hvac techs preaching the right way to install and service systems yet every tech that i have dealt with over the years cuts corners on installs or misdiagnoses the problem. My last install was done by a company in business over a 100yrs and it was a complete shit show.
Hello, Someone can recommend best place to buy course and books to take hvac exam here in florida? Thank You
How long does it take for the machine to do evacuate the line-set when connecting to an existing lineset.
Depends on many variables
3 times as long as the first time.
@@NewHVACGuide 25 feet. 4 ton. Goodman GSXC160481. A/H AVPTC49C14.
til they get to 1000 microns as long as the line set size is tight and correctly sized... goal is to eliminate moisture with no leaks
I could add line routing. Once they're in, there's no relocating without pumping down the system and all that jazz which is going to be costly. So if it's in the way of future renovations, too bad. You'll just have to drop that ceiling or raise that floor or put that new wall elsewhere or cut around the deck board, etc etc. These things should be put in to be out of the way and not become a future inconvenience. The installer needs some sense but also should talk to the homeowner and maybe an architect. I can't tell you how many stupid routings I've seen that looked like installer convenience was at the top of the priority list.
I’m building a new house with a heat pump for the HVAC. I noticed on the thermostat it doesn’t have “AUX Heat” on it and only emergency heat. How would I know if my system would have auxiliary heat if the heat pump can’t keep up with the desired indoor temperature? Would it just say “emergency heat” whenever the electric heat strips turn on? Thank you to whomever comments
IF you only have electric heatstrip as backup then 'Emergency Heat' is fine/normal on thermostat. 'Aux Heat' would be if you ALSO had like a propane furnace in addition to the electric heatstrip.
@@garyr.8116 Gotcha. There is electric heat strips so even though there’s no “aux heat” on the thermostat, if the heat pump can’t keep up with the heat demand, the electric strips will kick on automatically to help support the heat pump?
@@ericb.8119 Correct. Also for 'defrost' in the wintertime (when the system automatically reverses itself to defrost the outside coil, it will turn the electric heatstrips ON for a few minutes so that it doesn't blow quite so cold air on the inside.)
@@garyr.8116 thank you for the explanation!
Gary is 100% correct
We have a running joke every 3rd change out gets a 5 ton. Hard to talk a homeowner thats been uncomfortable for years into fixing issues not just adding more tons
If the existing system is working well and is properly sized, most of the calculations are not needed when replacing system.
PROPER DUCTWORK IS M-O-R-E IMPORTANT than a fancy high efficiency system.
I have worked for companies and had them sell “New duck Work “ on a reference I made to the customer, and they went back with literally the exact same thing🤯. And then insult to injury don’t even set the blower speed correctly ?!!?? 🤯🤯🤯Exactly 2% of service people correctly evaluate ductwork! Make no mistake, it is the absolute most important thing on that system. Time and time again I see companies replace systems and don’t address ductwork! And often times, you don’t have to completely replace it. I find a lot of times a couple tweaks on a few runs can make all the difference in the world. Great video by the way.
Great great advice! Thank you so much.
You’re welcome! Thank you for your kind words!
😊
Well job done ❤
My HVAC system was installed less than 5 years ago and has been working fine (still works okay). However, for the past couple of summers, I've noticed an issue with the AC unit. I set the temperature to 75°F, and it cools the house to the desired temperature before turning off. After about 5 or 10 minutes, it turns back on, runs for 10 to 15 minutes, and then turns off again. This cycle repeats every 5 to 10 minutes.
I've checked the condensation line and ductwork, and everything seems fine. I also replaced the thermostat with a smart thermostat to monitor its activity.
I’ve checked the following components, and there are no issues:
• Compressor
• Drain line
• Ductwork
• Thermostat (replaced with a smart thermostat)
• Return air
What could be wrong with the system? Is it normal for an AC unit to operate like this? My primary concern is the high electricity bills each month due to this issue. Also, I'm worried that the unit might wear out quickly, leading to bigger problems down the road. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I had same issue, tech guys replaced electronic board right outside the fan. It is working properly now.
Just remember on manual j calculations "Garbage in equals Garbage out. Without doing blower door testing, the infiltration rate can only be guessed and also duct leakage testing needs to be done.
Send me an email. I’ve got a few questions for you. Thanks!
Hvacguide1@gmail.com
@@NewHVACGuide What's your questions.
I'm in another trade but it drives me nuts when I have guys applying for a job. I ask them about experience and they always scowl and tell me how many years they have been in the trade. I have seen so many guys doing it wrong for years. I always ask those guys how they would handle a situation and there are always more than one way to skin a cat. They skip steps, take short cuts because they are lazy and set in their ways. I point things out and their reaction is nobody does that and it's not necessary. Thankfully they always tell me who they are and I would never hire these clowns.
The more experience you have, the harder it is to be humble
@@NewHVACGuide Yup. Both our fields are constantly changing with technology. You have to be willing to learn new ways of doing things. Some guys just don't have that in them.
What about not replacing copper tubing to inside air handler?
If your switching refrigerants best practice is to replace,but they can be flushed.
always always always do An Load calculation but @ very least ck duct work & determine whats its unloading @ the Plenums vr what its pulling back always sometime duct work esp an added return is needed & necessary & supplies also ...dont blow enough cfms if its not receiving enough cfms
How many HVAC companies/Installers are triple evacuating an A/C unit? What percentage of them are taking the time to do this procedure?
0
we did 4 times on a leaking 5 story line set Thursday.. gotta find the leak in a closed system
some more good advice!
Hey dude, quick question. I have an 80 percent furnace in my basement. I need to move my furnace in my basement so I can finish the basement out, can I vent it out the side of my house? I have an inducer motor on the furnace, just can’t seem to find a clear answer. The area where I’ll be venting it out of does not have any windows or openings around it.
I'm guessing it vents into your chimney now?
I started hvac trade in 1985 as installer. Company I worked for overloaded schedule so much that if I did all you say here I would have been fired. All these companies want speed over quality. It's all about money
I was watching some other channel where a guy brazed in a new accumulator without any flow (no nitrogen)...
He said he was 'tired'...
Of course, the negative effects come later, so he was able to scam his customer into thinking he had a good technician...
How much does a good load calculation cost ? The price between 3 and 4 ton is less than $1000.
What about when you have a 3 story house like me ? 3 systems 1.5k ×3 . Load calculations might be down under 1k
Load calculation should not cost more than $500 even in the most expensive states
Oh okay, let me have you come out and do a static pressure check on my new house. To find out that the duct work is not correct. what are we going to do completely rip out all of the ceilings and walls in a brand new home to replace a duct work with bigger duct work that won't fit inside of the walls or ceilings.
Sometimes yes. Sometimes no 🙂
How is all this moisture being introduced in a new system with new condensing unit , coil, line set and new drier?
Ambient air has humidity and moisture
@@NewHVACGuide With a evacuation it will boil off any moisture that will be in the small amount of air that is introduced upon installation even if it not triple evacuated.
Well main problem in this industry. Mr. Johnson gets contractor license from the state rent it to Migel. Migel hires illegal Juan and Jose to install the unit. Every home owner should ask installers state issued license and EPA certificate. Avoid Classic American way....
Much the same way my house was built. Guy drives around and pulls up to the illegals job fair (corner of some street, USA) shakes a bottle of booze and says, "Who wants to help me wire, plumb, build a house?"
Omg I have ISO’s with my ac unit the blower don’t stop when the ac unit stops so the guy said is my main board that wasn’t working so I need a new one he saids 😢 but I don’t know anything about ac units now I need to know how much is the going to cost me I just paid $500 for this guy to add Freon to my unit and now the blower doesn’t stop when the you unit stops and the main board😢😢😢
Hiw long should a unit last?
Well out TK units run for a good 20 years until the on road equipment they are mounted to go out of service due to age. Changing parts as needed. These are subject to severe road vibrations, temperature swings, and harsh invironments.
But they run for 20 years. Yes the new equipment cools quicker and better. Thats technology. And there are bad versions. Currently fighting compresor burnouts from the newest design; factory sealed.
Properly maintained and repaired, HVAC should last a long time.
I purge the air with Freon.
They need to read the instructions before they show up for the install and just refer to it as a review in the field.
This was good info, but painful to listen to. The sound levels sound very squashed and peaked.
Don’t think they are accidentally making mistakes. They just don’t care.
Who the heck chooses an oil that can turn acidic?
Not sure which oils they’ve tried but Poe oil has been used for years with 410
Your system has to match your ductwork in my opinion
Load calculation mistake= cutting down a huge tree infront of your home that gave shade from 12pm-6pm and thinking yoi don't need a new load calculation ..
Did that happen to you?
@@NewHVACGuide no but I been watching alot of hvac videos and it's very interesting how many companies don't even look at the duck work and do a load calculation when installing a new system. Your video is awesome brother God bless. I'll be saving it to my favorites.
Thank you so much
Video after video of "professionals" bashing other "professionals". All these videos do is make me even more worried about having work done by anyone. It's such an expensive item and apparently every HVAC guy, except for you of course, is a hack. I'm basically to the point where I'm going to learn as much as I can and do the work myself. Sounds like I've got just as good of a chance at getting it right as all these "professionals".
I don’t think they’re all hacks. I actually think there’s some pretty good ones out there. Unfortunately, there are quite a few bad ones as well.
And for the record, I would say there are more Hack homeowners doing what we do than pros :-)
HVAC guy here doing it for over 24 years now...
I agree that installation has to do a lot with performance, but GOODMAN is still trash no matter how thorough and how good you install it.
Have had a Goodman outside unit for right at 20yrs. Never done a thing to it but replace the capacitor.
@@johnday2447 Im glad you got a good one.
Guys like you are the cause.. you do shity installs then blame the equipment .... installed correctly there's no problems
I want my vents to blow as hard as a hair dryer! lol
Upping your capacity 1/2 ton generally won't give you problems. More than that can easily cause you problems.
Remember, as a unit ages, it's CAPACITY goes down.
As the climate heats up your AC needs will go up too.
Temperature clamp? LOL. Mine are my thumbs and index fingers.
Works like a champ! Old timer taught me that one.
HVAC system should last a lifetime. Literally.
Designed obsolescence just makes companies richer and you poorer.
I notices the author did not discuss return air temperature and supply air temperature at the vents.
Hmm....
You want no less than 18-22 deg F difference.
Climate change, lmao 🤣🤣 uu
@@gregpayton6935climate change is real. The climate has always changed. The debate lies in the cause and whether we can affect it, or change it. The argument I use is: If climate change is the existential threat to civilization that “they” say it is how does it make sense to export our manufacturing jobs to the biggest polluters on the planet?
@@bondpit8750 it's called weather and you we can't change it. The West is taxing themselves stupid while countries like China/India dgaf. There is always a boogey man to scare the sheeple. The 70s it was global cooling and the impending ice age. The 80s was acid rain and the ozone. Since the 90s it is always '10 more years ' and the the coastline will rise x amount of feet. All the while the people that are telling us and making stupid laws are buying beach front property. It's a huge scam, wake up!
Not Impressed with this video and your built in AD gave this one thumbs down
Titled “HVAC Guide for Homeowners”, but learned nothing that would be helpful to a homeowner. Lots of complaints about HVAC techs. Sound like you guys need to clean up your industry.
Did you actually watch the video? I thought it was good.
Please disconnect your nose hair from your mustache. Looks like your nose is running.
I will work on that
This is the second type of videos I’ve seen HVAC TECH’S SUCK & THIS IS WHY I’m all for educating the homeowners and customers but calling your own out on a decent size channel is pretty crappy in my opinion. In my opinion this is a way for you to get clicks views and subs nope it’s also for you to run a commercial in the middle of this video!! A homeowner should see this and should know your talking out of your butt to sell a master class lol I’ve been in the trade for over a decade and any tech that sees this will understand and so should you!!
Are you butt hurt because your field has a bunch of scamers in it and they are getting called out? Sounds like you feel a little guilty.
Well I became interested because some of this and more is happening to me right now via a complete failure to do almost anything at all correctly per the frickin instructions let alone checking load or ducting...almost everything was done incorrectly. The only reason we used the HVAC guy was because he was recommended by a lic. electrician who redid our house with all new breaker panel etc., etc. and we were new to ALL of this. I believe the guy took the rebate we should have recieved and when repeatedly asked for an invoice, he'd say, "Oh yeah, I'll have to get that to you." It never happened and he became the flakiest person I've ever known. If I don't get paid from his bond, I'm 100% suing his ass. There's more but, I'll end there. I'm grateful for a video like this and if a follow up about the correct steps to take to go after the person's bond were made, I'd be more than grateful for that too. I'm documenting all and have a new HVAC company that is doing the same on my 1st invoice so far. So screw whomever doesn't like the infomative video.
@@Anon-oy5gbAgreed!! I've like, subscribed, and obviously commented now. I'll be looking at past videos and looking forward to future ones because I'm in a similar situation as you it sounds like where I was royally screwed. My HVAC guy mistakenly took my kindness for weakness and I will have recourse, somehow someway. Thank you HVAC Guide For Homeowners👍👍
@@GG-iu8ut I got so fed up & annoyed with HVAC techs from the home-warranty company that I went to the community college to take a HVAC class. I got my EPA 608 certification, bought a recovery machine, vacuum pump, refrigerant, nitrogen tank, manometer, etc. to maintain my own system. At the very least I can now observe an installation & point out what is being done improperly, or not done at all. To me the investment was well worth it.
"Calling your own out?" What are you HVAC guys all in a gang or something? More worried about snitches than hacks?