We have used the ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
I used the same ammo can for my battery box. It's much like yours in that it uses the same triple function 12v/USB/Voltmeter, but I also added an E27 lamp socket on the top of the box which powers a 12V DC LED bulb. And each of the functions is controlled by a separate switch. I also opted for a single 35 Amp hour battery.
Hi Buddy, absolutely love your battery box. Have you got any wiring diagrams, exactly how you did it . and when charging your batteries using a CEATEC charger, do you put the positive on one battery and the negative on the other? Or do you use one battery only to charge? i’m not 12 V sassy, that’s why I’m asking such questions
Safety First! VERY nice project!! And you put in the necessary safety equipment to keep from burning it up. 12 volts can and will start a fire. So many of these projects that show up on You tube don't have ANY fuses it's crazy. If this was my project I would remove the fuse holder from between the batteries and put in a proper sized wire so they will get all the amps to both batteries to make them live a long life and stay equalized. Then move that fuse holder to the power outlet and fuse it separate. Add a separate fuse to every circuit with the proper size fuse so if one circuit shorts or overloads it doesn't take out the whole box. Power coming in and power going out needs to be protected by a fuse. Leave the catastrophic fuse (the one coming off the battery to the switch) also doubles as a quick battery disconnect. Don't look at the cost of the fuses because if a short or overload happens you could lose all the equipment or worse, burn a house down? A $0.10 fuse will save a $20 charge controller or $200 portable battery box! Safety First. Nothing wrong with your box I'm just pushing Safety on You Tube. This is a very Nice box. Awesome!
Thanks! Great information. I was thinking a building something like this for extended fishing trips on my kayak; but you're right. I would not want a fire started and have the box melt through the bottom of my kayak. Disturbing! Would a 10 amp fuse be adequate?
Safety First! You fuse to protect the wiring! So you size the fuse to blow before the wires burn! So research what your max load will be then look at a wire load chart to determine what wires at what length will carry that much load. If your max load is 5 amps then install the next size larger fuse or a fuse that can handle a small surge say 10 amp and your wires should be of a gauge to handle that load at the length you'll use! If you wire only one fuse then wire it at the positive post (catastrophic fuse). If your box is going to have more then one circuit then wire a fuse for each circuit at the load each circuit draws its power from and then make sure the catastrophic fuse and wiring will handle all the loads. Something small and simple like this 14 gauge wires and a 10 amp fuse (should) work but do your own research and understand your system completely for the peace of mind that it was done right! Safety first! Have FUN
Bruce Arntt, ok, I can buy into the safety bit, but I'm wondering if you know anything about using marine breakers, that are xceptionally suited for field use, ... if you are worried about burning down the "house" then you should hire someone who is knowledgeable in the field of electricity, & electronics, ... the advantage to using/utilizing breakers, over fuses is so great that if you should accidentally have a short, the breaker will pop, instead of a fuse, ... which has to be replaced, which will only happen over, & over until you finally find the short by the melted wires, or appliance, ... whereas with the breaker, you can unplug the component as you seek to find the short, ... starting with the end result of your wiring schematic, ... & working your way back to your source of power, ... and yes, they make marine/offroad type of resettable breakers, in 5 amp through 100 amp, ... with the xception to this is that they don't stack, ... in other words, if you have a device that pulls 35 amps, for xample, then you need a lower numbered gauge of wire that can carry the current flow, & a breaker that is higher than your load base, @ peak, ... better performance than solid types of wire, ... in other words, a 50 amp resettable breaker, & a stranded wire capable of handling the resistance of the current flow, ... you cannot use a 30 & a 20 amp breaker on the line to get a 50 amp breaker, ... don't fret over wire size capability as it does not state what type of wire he is using, ...
A 50L fridge/freezer only uses about 3.2Amps. So you do not need to do anything special for the fridge as you have 20Amp wiring fitted. However, with only 26Amps total capacity your battery would be dead in 8hrs. However, if you turn the fridge off at night then it will last to the morning NP.
You have put forth a viable concept to supplying power with minimum risk, & I commend your production, as for others, let them stay on the beach, or at home in their caves, or under an outcropping of rock, in a desert!👍
you ever go solar with this box? I just built one for solar.. Pretty easy. Added a kill switch to shut off the charge controller so it doesn't drain the battery. Actually looking at how to monitor how much is being pulled from the solar panel so its visible on the outside. Right now I have to keep opening the lid to check the charge controller. Might do a version 2 and mount charge controller half way our so that just the display is visible from the outside
is it possible to connect a cool box to it? If I use larger batteries? I also want to build something like that, eventually with a solar panel. I hope you can give me some more information. Thanks!
Is there a parts list available? Perhaps you could edit your description and put it there? Did the panel on the end of the box come as a complete unit - per-wired, etc? I could use something like this for extended trips on my kayak for off-shore fishing. Will the solar regulator also be governed by some sort of switch?
Here is what I am planning to use, looks exactly the same: www.amazon.com/dp/B01GC496T8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=11RESM930KOQB&coliid=I19CF1A23VA838&psc=1 I plan on using this momentary switch so the voltage meter isn't on the whole time as well: www.amazon.com/dp/B01FKXRYT6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=11RESM930KOQB&coliid=I2C853K4J3TKXT&psc=1
Nice pack! I'm looking at DIY battery packs that'll run a 60L fridge and other smaller technologies such as phones, UHF radio etc. Thinking of using an AGM 100-130amp battery in your set up just not sure of wire size, fuse sizes, and switch size. Could you help? Also, wanted battery charging whilst driving. People seem to recommend a DCDC charger. What type of connection would I need to get this sorted, please??
Sid A... if ur doing a 100amp AGM setup - get a Projecta or similar brand battery box already setup - ur spending at least $300 on a battery so about $70 (Bunnings if in Australia) on box with correct size cable & fittings fitted, fuse etc. & has a Cigarette lighter & Narva adaptor & a volt meter. The DCDC setup - here's a good web site to show how it works... they want to sell U the lot $$$ !! www.australiandirect.com.au/ultimate-dual-battery-education-video
@@robgrant9361 It's not worth it. I can make one cheaper then a commercial unit, but if i'm selling it I'd have to mark up the price for my time and effort which would bring the DIY unit cost to the same price as a commercial unit. I'd also have to buy insurance to sell them to people because I could be held liable if anything goes wrong with the unit.
How many Ah battery would you suggest to buy for a portable ham radio operation? Just to confirm, because I'm not that good with electricity. If I have a radio that draws max 10A when transmitting on full power and max 1A when on receive, does that mean that with a 100A battery I can talk for 10 and listen for 100 hours?
I'm looking at those cable fuse red 10amps. Do they simply blow up when they meet 10+ amps or simply work as a resister? I plan on using 2 12V 7AMP lead acid battery to connect to a cigarette lighter and a on off switch.
Beautiful Job! Simple, and easy to use. I can think of a few changes I would make. Those would be mostly to suit the way I would use it. I build these, custom for folks here in the States. You gave up some useable space in the bottom of the box forward of your batteries. But, overall, I genuinely like what you've done.
You don't. When you wire the batteries in PARALLEL they are essentially the same battery and only produce 12v. If you wire them in SERIES then it effectively doubles the voltage from 12v to 24v. You can have a million batteries wired in PARALLEL and they'll only produce 12 volts, but it will just act as a HUGE single battery. If you wired up 20 batteries in SERIES then it would be 20 x 12v = 240v
Please, i really want to know, it looks like you could just run wires direct from the battery to the usb ports, but to me it looks like it would be too much juice going to the phone or other electronics that are plugged in.
There are a few videos around where they show the usb voltage on a meter, safely at 5V. There's obviously some electronics in the back of the usb socket thingy. (And regardless of what current is available, devices only draw the current they need. If that wasn't the case your car would be in trouble since a car battery can provide 100s of amps but the interior light for example only draws a handful.)
Nobody... ever explains how these batteries are recharged... What's it take? What kind of charger do you use? Is there anyway to charge these batteries in your car off of 12V cig or a inverter?
Where did you buy your batteries from? Online they sell for $325AUD each!! That's one expensive battery box for only 26ah so hoping you got them a lot cheaper??
Australian Hunting Podcast: Damn bud if you got them from a mate you did well!... I have a similar box and want to make my own battery box but damn those batteries are expensive. I could fit the 70ah they make in my box but they sell for $900, then theres shipping costs to Darwin on top of that too. If your mate has any spare batteries let me know lol....
Your basic concept is very sound. Have you considered lightening this system up by using a pair of 12 Volt, 12 Amp LiFEPO4 Batteries, and a lithium-specific charge controller? You would reduce the weight by 70%!
I don't think they way you wired the take-offs (ie one on each battery) makes any difference to the way they discharge. With a wire joining the +ve terminals and another on the -ves, the terminals are electrically the same, so having one take-off from one battery and the other take-off from the other is electrically the same as having both take-offs from one battery.
Nice idea, but only 26AH? You can get a typical portable Lion 20-30AH battery pack with USB outputs off Amazon for peanuts and its only the size of a large phone, and weighs probably 1/20th of this, possibly even less. Whats the point of doing this unless you are putting a couple of 100 AH's into it?
Thomas Stephens 20-30Ah and the size of a large phone is not 12 volts. 3.6 or 5 volts more likely. Comparing the capacity of different batteries is not possible without knowing the voltage.
We have used the ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
I used the same ammo can for my battery box. It's much like yours in that it uses the same triple function 12v/USB/Voltmeter, but I also added an E27 lamp socket on the top of the box which powers a 12V DC LED bulb. And each of the functions is controlled by a separate switch. I also opted for a single 35 Amp hour battery.
Simple and clean, very nice. Cheers!
Hi Buddy, absolutely love your battery box. Have you got any wiring diagrams, exactly how you did it . and when charging your batteries using a CEATEC charger, do you put the positive on one battery and the negative on the other? Or do you use one battery only to charge? i’m not 12 V sassy, that’s why I’m asking such questions
Very nice! I want to do something similar but include a split charge relay system for use in our RV.
Safety First! VERY nice project!! And you put in the necessary safety equipment to keep from burning it up. 12 volts can and will start a fire. So many of these projects that show up on You tube don't have ANY fuses it's crazy. If this was my project I would remove the fuse holder from between the batteries and put in a proper sized wire so they will get all the amps to both batteries to make them live a long life and stay equalized. Then move that fuse holder to the power outlet and fuse it separate. Add a separate fuse to every circuit with the proper size fuse so if one circuit shorts or overloads it doesn't take out the whole box. Power coming in and power going out needs to be protected by a fuse. Leave the catastrophic fuse (the one coming off the battery to the switch) also doubles as a quick battery disconnect. Don't look at the cost of the fuses because if a short or overload happens you could lose all the equipment or worse, burn a house down? A $0.10 fuse will save a $20 charge controller or $200 portable battery box! Safety First. Nothing wrong with your box I'm just pushing Safety on You Tube. This is a very Nice box. Awesome!
Thanks! Great information. I was thinking a building something like this for extended fishing trips on my kayak; but you're right. I would not want a fire started and have the box melt through the bottom of my kayak. Disturbing! Would a 10 amp fuse be adequate?
Safety First! You fuse to protect the wiring! So you size the fuse to blow before the wires burn! So research what your max load will be then look at a wire load chart to determine what wires at what length will carry that much load. If your max load is 5 amps then install the next size larger fuse or a fuse that can handle a small surge say 10 amp and your wires should be of a gauge to handle that load at the length you'll use! If you wire only one fuse then wire it at the positive post (catastrophic fuse). If your box is going to have more then one circuit then wire a fuse for each circuit at the load each circuit draws its power from and then make sure the catastrophic fuse and wiring will handle all the loads. Something small and simple like this 14 gauge wires and a 10 amp fuse (should) work but do your own research and understand your system completely for the peace of mind that it was done right! Safety first! Have FUN
Thank you sir. Sounds as if some research/reading is in order. Much appreciated.
It will be FUN!
Bruce Arntt, ok, I can buy into the safety bit, but I'm wondering if you know anything about using marine breakers, that are xceptionally suited for field use, ... if you are worried about burning down the "house" then you should hire someone who is knowledgeable in the field of electricity, & electronics, ... the advantage to using/utilizing breakers, over fuses is so great that if you should accidentally have a short, the breaker will pop, instead of a fuse, ... which has to be replaced, which will only happen over, & over until you finally find the short by the melted wires, or appliance, ... whereas with the breaker, you can unplug the component as you seek to find the short, ... starting with the end result of your wiring schematic, ... & working your way back to your source of power, ... and yes, they make marine/offroad type of resettable breakers, in 5 amp through 100 amp, ... with the xception to this is that they don't stack, ... in other words, if you have a device that pulls 35 amps, for xample, then you need a lower numbered gauge of wire that can carry the current flow, & a breaker that is higher than your load base, @ peak, ... better performance than solid types of wire, ... in other words, a 50 amp resettable breaker, & a stranded wire capable of handling the resistance of the current flow, ... you cannot use a 30 & a 20 amp breaker on the line to get a 50 amp breaker, ... don't fret over wire size capability as it does not state what type of wire he is using, ...
A 50L fridge/freezer only uses about 3.2Amps. So you do not need to do anything special for the fridge as you have 20Amp wiring fitted. However, with only 26Amps total capacity your battery would be dead in 8hrs. However, if you turn the fridge off at night then it will last to the morning NP.
how funny I just buit exactly the same think without seeing the video :D
You have put forth a viable concept to supplying power with minimum risk, & I commend your production, as for others, let them stay on the beach, or at home in their caves, or under an outcropping of rock, in a desert!👍
Really well built battery box.. Great job!
Is there any chance you could share a wiring diagram please. Reckon I've got it but would like to check. Thanks.
you ever go solar with this box? I just built one for solar.. Pretty easy. Added a kill switch to shut off the charge controller so it doesn't drain the battery. Actually looking at how to monitor how much is being pulled from the solar panel so its visible on the outside. Right now I have to keep opening the lid to check the charge controller. Might do a version 2 and mount charge controller half way our so that just the display is visible from the outside
Very nice and clean can you pls send me the information on how to make them. Great video
Thank you.
Have you ever thought about selling these and making some money?
Is this Ozzyman reviews??
XD
Awesome video :)
is it possible to connect a cool box to it? If I use larger batteries? I also want to build something like that, eventually with a solar panel. I hope you can give me some more information. Thanks!
Is there a parts list available? Perhaps you could edit your description and put it there? Did the panel on the end of the box come as a complete unit - per-wired, etc? I could use something like this for extended trips on my kayak for off-shore fishing. Will the solar regulator also be governed by some sort of switch?
Here is what I am planning to use, looks exactly the same:
www.amazon.com/dp/B01GC496T8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=11RESM930KOQB&coliid=I19CF1A23VA838&psc=1
I plan on using this momentary switch so the voltage meter isn't on the whole time as well:
www.amazon.com/dp/B01FKXRYT6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=11RESM930KOQB&coliid=I2C853K4J3TKXT&psc=1
just curious, does it actually overheat? I notice there's no ventilation
What fuses, switches and cables are you using? I want to do the same setup but I don't know the type of cabling to buy
Is this product can be used to heat electric branket for overnight use?
Like it mate was looking at doing something very similar for on the back of my kayak would you be able to fit 2 x35amh batteries in do you know
Will you be able to hook up the solar panel and charge at the same time you're drawing power from the batteries?
+Australian Hunting Podcast will there be a video soon? I'm interested in seeing how you do it. Thanks!
Nice pack!
I'm looking at DIY battery packs that'll run a 60L fridge and other smaller technologies such as phones, UHF radio etc. Thinking of using an AGM 100-130amp battery in your set up just not sure of wire size, fuse sizes, and switch size. Could you help?
Also, wanted battery charging whilst driving. People seem to recommend a DCDC charger. What type of connection would I need to get this sorted, please??
Sid A... if ur doing a 100amp AGM setup - get a Projecta or similar brand battery box already setup - ur spending at least $300 on a battery so about $70 (Bunnings if in Australia) on box with correct size cable & fittings fitted, fuse etc. & has a Cigarette lighter & Narva adaptor & a volt meter.
The DCDC setup - here's a good web site to show how it works... they want to sell U the lot $$$ !!
www.australiandirect.com.au/ultimate-dual-battery-education-video
That’s very nice I like it
Should make them and sell them I would buy one now from you
How much
@@robgrant9361 It's not worth it. I can make one cheaper then a commercial unit, but if i'm selling it I'd have to mark up the price for my time and effort which would bring the DIY unit cost to the same price as a commercial unit. I'd also have to buy insurance to sell them to people because I could be held liable if anything goes wrong with the unit.
From where u get this empty box
Sir, a great setup.
How many Ah battery would you suggest to buy for a portable ham radio operation?
Just to confirm, because I'm not that good with electricity. If I have a radio that draws max 10A when transmitting on full power and max 1A when on receive, does that mean that with a 100A battery I can talk for 10 and listen for 100 hours?
I'm looking at those cable fuse red 10amps.
Do they simply blow up when they meet 10+ amps or simply work as a resister?
I plan on using 2 12V 7AMP lead acid battery to connect to a cigarette lighter and a on off switch.
Beautiful Job! Simple, and easy to use. I can think of a few changes I would make. Those would be mostly to suit the way I would use it. I build these, custom for folks here in the States. You gave up some useable space in the bottom of the box forward of your batteries. But, overall, I genuinely like what you've done.
any chance of equipment list and were to buy? thx heaps
hey jason, can you create a parts list? thanks.
can you adjust those 12volts? make it 19v for laptops.
12v to 110v Inverter ,200watts
Hi if you’re running 2 12v Batteries together how do you regulate them from 24v down to 12v thanks
You don't. When you wire the batteries in PARALLEL they are essentially the same battery and only produce 12v. If you wire them in SERIES then it effectively doubles the voltage from 12v to 24v. You can have a million batteries wired in PARALLEL and they'll only produce 12 volts, but it will just act as a HUGE single battery. If you wired up 20 batteries in SERIES then it would be 20 x 12v = 240v
what size batteries do you have again ?
question, do you need a fuse or some type of regulator going to the usb ports so they don't get too much power and destroy your phone?
Please, i really want to know, it looks like you could just run wires direct from the battery to the usb ports, but to me it looks like it would be too much juice going to the phone or other electronics that are plugged in.
There are a few videos around where they show the usb voltage on a meter, safely at 5V. There's obviously some electronics in the back of the usb socket thingy. (And regardless of what current is available, devices only draw the current they need. If that wasn't the case your car would be in trouble since a car battery can provide 100s of amps but the interior light for example only draws a handful.)
Thanks for the nice video Jason. I have a 7 ah and an 21 ah batteries. Can I use them in parallel ?
Gotta put a vent on that box or you are asking for major trouble.
They might be AGM's
Nobody... ever explains how these batteries are recharged... What's it take? What kind of charger do you use? Is there anyway to charge these batteries in your car off of 12V cig or a inverter?
can you plug just one battery into a charger and does it charge both?
How do you recharge your batteries
hi man please send me a link on where to get the box
very nice
How do you charge the battery?
Solar or battery charger.
How many hour can running
Where can I buy these batteries?
What battery did you use?
G'day mate, what size inline fuses did you use?
can i make it with 18650 batteries ? 12 volt with a 3S 25 A BMS
thanks
Can u charge this back up from car cigarette lighter plug while driving? If so can u explain how to do so?
How do you charge it?
Solar, or 240v Charger
@@AHPOutdoors where is the plug for the 240V charger
Hi just out of curiosity how much did this set up cost you all up 😎
Where did you buy your batteries from? Online they sell for $325AUD each!! That's one expensive battery box for only 26ah so hoping you got them a lot cheaper??
Australian Hunting Podcast: Damn bud if you got them from a mate you did well!... I have a similar box and want to make my own battery box but damn those batteries are expensive. I could fit the 70ah they make in my box but they sell for $900, then theres shipping costs to Darwin on top of that too. If your mate has any spare batteries let me know lol....
Your basic concept is very sound. Have you considered lightening this system up by using a pair of 12 Volt, 12 Amp LiFEPO4 Batteries, and a lithium-specific charge controller? You would reduce the weight by 70%!
And increase the cost.
X how would you charge at
Will those size batteries run a trolling motor? I don't fish any longer than 3-4 hours at a time.
Winter Craighead no
How heavy?
The whole point was how to charge them, not how to use a battery, we already know that, mate.
How to AMPS your battery???
No vents??
2 battery 12 v its means 24 v?
10c for each time you open the battery box and close it.
Can you make me up one and send it to me I live in Brisbane
Give me link this box
amazon
was the box you used a ammo box
+AussieFeralControl thanks
www.amazon.com/dp/B003ISKM9K/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=11RESM930KOQB&coliid=I318IE5S99BLQS&psc=1
12 volt USB ?
I don't think they way you wired the take-offs (ie one on each battery) makes any difference to the way they discharge. With a wire joining the +ve terminals and another on the -ves, the terminals are electrically the same, so having one take-off from one battery and the other take-off from the other is electrically the same as having both take-offs from one battery.
As an American I don't know what your saying
Would have been cheaper to by couple300000ah battery banks
Hmmmm no. It wouldn't have been.
Did a kangaroo wire that
Nice idea, but only 26AH? You can get a typical portable Lion 20-30AH battery pack with USB outputs off Amazon for peanuts and its only the size of a large phone, and weighs probably 1/20th of this, possibly even less. Whats the point of doing this unless you are putting a couple of 100 AH's into it?
Thomas Stephens 20-30Ah and the size of a large phone is not 12 volts. 3.6 or 5 volts more likely. Comparing the capacity of different batteries is not possible without knowing the voltage.