great video! only thing i can add is have a backup voltage tester… i once had a defective unit giving me obviously erroneous info so i researched it online & the unit was under a recall!
Yes, it could! I like the idea of using (canless) puck lights too since they're lightweight and don't require additional support structures. There's also a good selection of those that come with a junction box as well, if needed.
You could upgrade Fluorescent Tube Lights to LED Tubes. I used the Toggle Brand from Home Depot. I don’t recommend getting them from the store, but ordering them for Home Delivery. If you do get them from the store, make sure the box has not been opened. Turn the Breaker off, remove the clear cover, remove the wire cover. Cut the wires next to the ballast. Remove the Ballasts. Cut the wires off of the Lamp Holders, on just one end of the fixture. Direct wire the Black “Hot wire, to one wire off of each Lamp Holder. IE If you have two lamps, you will have the hot wire twisted together with two wires from the lamp holders. Wire the White Neutral Wire, to the other two wires off of the lamp holders. Install the end on the LED Tube, with the label, in the wired lamp holder. Snap the metal wire cover, back on being careful, to get the wires inside and not pinched. Turn breaker on and test the light, adjust the color switch to the desired lighting color. Reinstall the Clear Cover.
Feit Electric is a good brand, but I prefer fixtures with replaceable bulbs. The original light fixtures were pretty nice for me, though. Also, I would sell those fluorescent fixtures to make money if I wanted to upgrade my lighting.
@@wildcat-diy Thanks! The ground wires go on the same screw and it’s okay if they touch. If I have two black wires from the existing fixture, and one from the new fixture, just connect all three together, and do the same with the white wires? If I cannot get it installed, just cap the wires with the wires nuts and I should be able to turn the breaker back on until I can get it properly installed?
@@DJVijilante *I'd verify the below with your local codes or with an electrician familiar with your local codes, but generally in the US, black wires are hot and there is no need to modify the wiring logic (all same colored wires can be connected together) when replacing light fixtures. Yes, you can cap the black, white and ground/copper wires coming from the light box separately until you're ready to install the new fixture. Electrical tape can be used for extra precaution. I like to have each wire nut spaced apart so there's distance between them. When wiring the fixture: Connect the fixture’s black wire(s) to the black wire(s) from the light box. Connect the fixture’s white wire(s) to the white wire(s) from the light box. Connect the fixture’s copper wire to the ground screw on the mounting plate. For a plastic light box, the ground wire from the light box can be wrapped around the ground screw on the bracket as well but this isn't always possible to do or necessary. Since it's sometimes difficult to connect more than one wire to the screw on the mounting bracket, the fixture's copper wire, the light box's copper wire, and a short piece of the same gauge copper wire can be connected together with a wire nut. Then, the tail end of the short wire can be connected to the mounting bracket ground screw. If the light box is metal, the ground wire from the light box should be wrapped around the metal box's ground screw. Depending on local codes, ground wire ends may not need to be capped together. However, some prefer capping copper wires regardless to prevent contact with other wires inside the light box. Electrical tape can be used to help ensure wire nuts remain in place.
The green ground screw on our old fluorescent fixture was near the center of the fixture's metal housing. On the new light fixtures, the ground screw is on the mounting plate or mounting bracket.
Finally a video for my exact problem. Thank you👍 its not as complicated as i thought it would be
☺ I'm so glad to hear that!
This is exactly what I needed from start to finish! Thank you.
I'm so glad you found this video helpful. ☺
This is exactly what I need to do. Thank you for clear instructions!
I'm so glad! Thank you for your comment ☺
Thank you so much. This video was exactly what I needed. It was to the point and very informative.
I'm so happy to hear that! Thank you for the feedback!
I wish all videos were this clear!!!
Thank you for your kind words ☺
Thanks for the video. I had to do exactly the same thing at home. This was very helpful. God bless you
That's awesome! I'm so glad to hear that. Thank you for your comment ☺
great video! only thing i can add is have a backup voltage tester… i once had a defective unit giving me obviously erroneous info so i researched it online & the unit was under a recall!
Thank you and thanks for the suggestion ☺ I'm glad it was clear something was wrong with the tester. That's scary!
Theoretically, could this be done with the fluorescent lights in my drop ceiling? Obviously needing new drop in panels with holes cut for the pucks?
Yes, it could! I like the idea of using (canless) puck lights too since they're lightweight and don't require additional support structures. There's also a good selection of those that come with a junction box as well, if needed.
@@wildcat-diy thank you! I’m learning a lot as I remodel and this is helpful!
@@heatherpoling1769 No problem. It's a great way to learn and a rewarding process. 🙂Have fun and best of luck with the remodel!
You could upgrade Fluorescent Tube Lights to LED Tubes. I used the Toggle Brand from Home Depot. I don’t recommend getting them from the store, but ordering them for Home Delivery. If you do get them from the store, make sure the box has not been opened. Turn the Breaker off, remove the clear cover, remove the wire cover. Cut the wires next to the ballast. Remove the Ballasts. Cut the wires off of the Lamp Holders, on just one end of the fixture. Direct wire the Black “Hot wire, to one wire off of each Lamp Holder. IE If you have two lamps, you will have the hot wire twisted together with two wires from the lamp holders. Wire the White Neutral Wire, to the other two wires off of the lamp holders. Install the end on the LED Tube, with the label, in the wired lamp holder. Snap the metal wire cover, back on being careful, to get the wires inside and not pinched. Turn breaker on and test the light, adjust the color switch to the desired lighting color. Reinstall the Clear Cover.
Feit Electric is a good brand, but I prefer fixtures with replaceable bulbs. The original light fixtures were pretty nice for me, though. Also, I would sell those fluorescent fixtures to make money if I wanted to upgrade my lighting.
Can I have the old fluorescent shop light?
You’re a lifesaver!
Great job on this video!
Thank you!!
Wow very nice 👍🏻👍🏻 thanks
You're most welcome!
Thanks. Where is the link to the voltage tester?
Here's a link to the Milwaukee voltage tester on Amazon: amzn.to/3oQRB7F
@@wildcat-diy Again, thanks so much for the video and thanks for the link.
@@DJVijilante No problem ☺ I'm happy to help!
@@wildcat-diy Thanks! The ground wires go on the same screw and it’s okay if they touch. If I have two black wires from the existing fixture, and one from the new fixture, just connect all three together, and do the same with the white wires? If I cannot get it installed, just cap the wires with the wires nuts and I should be able to turn the breaker back on until I can get it properly installed?
@@DJVijilante *I'd verify the below with your local codes or with an electrician familiar with your local codes, but generally in the US, black wires are hot and there is no need to modify the wiring logic (all same colored wires can be connected together) when replacing light fixtures.
Yes, you can cap the black, white and ground/copper wires coming from the light box separately until you're ready to install the new fixture. Electrical tape can be used for extra precaution. I like to have each wire nut spaced apart so there's distance between them.
When wiring the fixture:
Connect the fixture’s black wire(s) to the black wire(s) from the light box.
Connect the fixture’s white wire(s) to the white wire(s) from the light box.
Connect the fixture’s copper wire to the ground screw on the mounting plate.
For a plastic light box, the ground wire from the light box can be wrapped around the ground screw on the bracket as well but this isn't always possible to do or necessary. Since it's sometimes difficult to connect more than one wire to the screw on the mounting bracket, the fixture's copper wire, the light box's copper wire, and a short piece of the same gauge copper wire can be connected together with a wire nut. Then, the tail end of the short wire can be connected to the mounting bracket ground screw.
If the light box is metal, the ground wire from the light box should be wrapped around the metal box's ground screw.
Depending on local codes, ground wire ends may not need to be capped together. However, some prefer capping copper wires regardless to prevent contact with other wires inside the light box. Electrical tape can be used to help ensure wire nuts remain in place.
very helpful
I'm so glad!
Why can’t I find that exact ladder that comes with the cat? No stores seem to have it… 😂
I would have taken the fluorescent tubes as I’m not a big fan of these LEDs.
Where exactly is the ground screw?
The green ground screw on our old fluorescent fixture was near the center of the fixture's metal housing. On the new light fixtures, the ground screw is on the mounting plate or mounting bracket.
my ladder didn't come with a cat, is that ok
Good question. I think this should be okay. Actually, efficiency may even improve by 10+% 😉
ASMR!
❤
FLORUSCENT LIGHT BESTT. LED LIGHT 🤮🤮🤢🤢🤮🤮🤮🤢🤢😌🤢🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤢
Thank you ma'am!!
You're most welcome ☺
Man voice