Laser Cutting and Engraving Professional Business Cards - TEMPLATE DESIGN!
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
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Rich, I am new at the laser engraving like many people out there. You have given me so much information that I never thought existed. i have gone from dreading the purchase of my laser to spending my days practicing what i have learned. your teaching method is perfect, see it, do it, and learn.
Welcome aboard!
Thanks a LOT, Rich.
I typically divide Skill Levels into 4 groups.
Level 1 - Unconscious Incompetence - task is entirely new, no foundation for learning - unable to perform, requires direct supervision and explanation, has no basis for asking relevant questions - does not know when errors occur
Level 2 - Conscious Incompetence - minimal familiarity with task, can learn with direct instruction - can perform with frequent assistance - develops general, non-specific questions - recognizes errors but cannot independently resolve, incapable of collaboration with others
Level 3 - Conscious Competence - understands all major aspects of task, recognizes that task impacts other processes but may not understand how, learns easily with practice and reference material, capable of independent work with occasional assistance, asks probing questions to discern finely detailed differences - independently recognizes and resolves errors, collaborates well with others
Level 4 - Unconscious Competence - understands all aspects of task and relationships to other processes, reaches technical limit of processes, tools and materials, capable of evaluating and instructing others in task performance and developing advanced techniques and applications, asks questions for which there are no external answers, can lead collaborative teams
You seem almost apologetic about not giving out your template. It's not necessary and please don't feel like you should do that, even if asked. Many of us, hopefully, are here to learn and develop our own techniques, not to get handouts that leave us incapable of performing independent work or developing skills.
Thanks a lot for the guidance and instruction you so freely give.
Well said Wayne, thank you! 👍
I enjoy your tutorials Rick. They are so easy to follow. Thanks for taking the time do it slow. It really helps the beginner.
Glad you like them!
Brilliant! Cards in the trash and coins in the pocket!
Yup! Nobody throws them away! 👍
Man!!. Sooo much easier than hitting duplicate. And a lot faster to make changes. Thanks for the tip.
You bet Joseph!
Rich; excellent videos on how to make my business stand out from all the rest, especially the coin business cards.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video as usual. I do not miss any of your videos. You are a great teacher. Thanks for all you do.
So nice of you Larry!
Great advice! I plan to make coins big enough to put a QR code on the back. I plan to help my wife at an upcoming craft show while I target the more high end or business customers. I also always seem to learn a few new Lightburn tricks with each of your videos. Thank you!
That's a great idea!
Thank you ! I learned so much from you
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks as usual. I prefer learning out to make my own. Like the saying "You can give a man a fish you can feed him for a day. Teach him how to fish he can feed himself for a lifetime".
Very true!
Thank you again! So much information. Very much appreciated
Awesome Guy! 👍 Thanks for watching!
Right about craft shows. I did many for years, different crafts, and made my $$ by speciality items made for visitors to my booth.
That's where the money is Merrill!
thanks rich, i do believe that you are correct these would be better than a card. so here we go time to do some designing. thanks again yoda your the best
You bet Jim! Thanks!
Really appreciate these tutorials. You've helped me tremendously.
Many thanks and keep'em coming.
Glad you like them Al! Thank you!
Thanks for your knowledge. I have learned so much from you. You have given me HOPE!!!
I'm so glad!
Just amazing , Thank u :)
Glad you liked it Andre!
You are an awesome teacher! Thank you for sharing the knowledge. :)
Happy to help!
Great video. I'm getting ready for my first show and this is an awesome idea for a handout. I agree with you about handing out your template. Also when you create it yourself three things happen. First you have the pride of ownership, you can honestly say it's something you personally created and finally you've LEARNED a new skill.
Right on!
Brilliant idea
Thanks a lot!
Thank you Rich for your time and inspiration 🙏🙏🙏😊
Thanks Ray! Much appreciated!
This was VERY informative, and I will be making some to hand out. Thanks again for such a fine and helpful video. Please keep them coming.
Thank you! Will do Karl!
I am late to the party, but this is great content like all of your other videos. I have found that you can group the coins and then center them on a tool path the size of your material. This allows you to engrave one side and then flip the whole sheet to engrave and cut the other side.
That's the way I do it Aggie. At first I would flip each one, and then later, I figured out engraving first 🤪 It does have to be cornered on a hard stop and the graphics centered.
Thank you, Rich, for a great detailed video. I am going to give this a try.
Have fun!
Sugesstion. If your template is centered, and you place the wood on the bed in the exact same place like the bottom corner of the bed, don't cut the coins until you do the second side so you won't have to make sure the coins are aligned upright correctly when you flip the wood over to do the back side. If you cut the first layer, you have to flip all the coins individually and make sure they are all aligned with the top of both the front and back exactly upright. Put the cut layer on the second file to avoid misalignment.
Update. I just saw your reply 7 mo ago about doing the back side first which would work as well. One minor problem is the array you made is not exactly centered since you adjusted the width of the spacing. Correct me if I missed it but I don't think the array was grouped and then exactly centered.
Love all your videos.
Ed Kennedy
Thanks Ed, the video was rushed. I usually center the design and use a framing square taped to the bed.
Great video. Only thing I wish was different is the video length. 30 minute tutorial is a bit long.
Thanks Rich.
It takes time to show the process.
Great idea Rich! I’m going to design mine to look like doubloons since I live in New Orleans. Thanks so much for taking the time to share your knowledge!
Awesome! I'd like to see those when you're done!
what great advice Rich! Such a good idea to give them something to remember you!
Glad you think so Jason!
I found that if I create the design completely and then create the grid I have less problems. Also on the current version of Lightburn (1.4.05) they got rid of Fill + Line.
Fill + Line has been gone for a year, since 1.2.00. The only changes in 1.4.5 is a bug fix in splines on the DXF import that nobody would have ever noticed.
subbed! I just got my Ortur LM 2 pro, your videos really make my life easier in learning!
Welcome aboard!
Great Video!!
Glad you enjoyed it Jeffery!
Thanks for doing this video. I picked some good Lightburn tips I can use on many projects. I learn something new every time.
Glad it was helpful William! Thank you!
Thanks again Rich. I do have some aluminum business cards getting delivered today but I’ll make some coins too so I’ll go back to the first video too. And as always, so many helpful tips tossed in.
Awesome Derek! You can also get the round aluminum blanks as well! Food for thought!
Great tutorial, really enjoyed the video & thanks again for all the time taken to make these videos 👍
My pleasure David!
Good argument for round coins/business cards. May try Pentagon's, etc.
Probably the same Merrill, as long as there are no corners. People just seem to love the coins!
I've been trying to follow your example, and I've actually had some success (thank you very much)! One thing I've learned, at least for me, is that an array of coins turns out much better then an individual coin, strangely enough (don't know why that is)! But I was wondering how long it takes you to do the front side of 50 coins? I'm averaging 30 minutes per coin, and I'm doing full cuts on both sides. An array of 10 takes 10 hours for front and back. I can't imagine doing 50!!!!!
I don't really know because I do them on the Co2 at 500 mm/sec, so my time is very fast.
Another great video Rich, I will try this tomorrow thank you 👍
Have fun George!
In order to flip to a hard stop, the array must be centered on the material. Is there a way I am missing? I seem to only be able to center the design one (not sure what to call it) and not the entire array. Love your videos and impressive knowledge. Thank you!
If you select all, you can center it.
Thanks for sharing. Why don’t you center the coins so all you need to do for front to back is flip the sheet and set the cutout to the back side? Thank you.
That's a good idea Rick, but I don't trust my jig making ability 100%. I guess I'll have to try it next time and do the engraving first.
Love, love this idea and concept. I'm having trouble with getting images to center up in the virtual array circles for my "coins". Can't figure it out.
Try posting on my free forums Charles. lahobbyguy.com/bb
Hello Rich - and a huge "ThankYou!" from Germany for everything you are teaching us so patiently. But one question arose in my mind from the sequence in using the cut-line around your double-sided coin. At minute 25:30 you erase the red cut-toolpath from the rear side of the coin. This only makes sense if you start the production of your coin array with this rear side (coin2.lbrn2) where you only engrave and leave the cutting out of the coin's circumference to the front side (coin1.lbrn2).
But this arises my second question: the 6-by-7-array was not horizontally centered within your initially saved boundary lines (toolpath). When you are finished engraving this side and turn your plywood around to engrave (and this time also cut) the opposite side, that would misalign the front and the backside already by the horizontal shift of the fringe areas.
But even worse: most probably your wooden workpiece would not exactly match the size of your toolpath - thus worsening the horizontal misaligning.
Did I miss anything how you avoid this effect? Or did I misunderstand any step of your otherwise perfect tutorial?
The best thing to do is position the wood in a frame, do the engrave side first, and then flip it into the frame and do the front where it engraves and cuts.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy: Thank you, Rich!
Another great video and a great idea. I’ll give it a go, it looks pretty straightforward to do. I have a few questions for you but I need to try all the stuff I’ve learnt so far before I ask. Thanks Paul
Practice makes perfect Paul!
Thank you!!!
You're welcome!
thank you again for great tutorial, :) I start designing my own business card, thanks for ideas...
You are so welcome!
New to the channel. Love this video and some of the others. stuff is great!!! Do you ever stream live?
I livestream every 2 weeks on my other channel Ken. Head over and subscribe:
ruclips.net/video/k-P4rRMAezA/видео.html
You can also signup for the email notifications on the blog:
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I also like the content you provide besides lightburn and lasering.
Regards from Bavaria Germany
See you in the forum.
Awesome, thank you!
As always.....great video!
Thanks again Keith!
Very inspiring.
Consider it done.
God bless.
Awesome! Thank you so much Lonnie!
You should show the settings to cut it out, I'm trying to find out how to do that
Showing the settings is useless Barillas. Everyone's settings will be different.
I'm just disappointed you can't make templates for all 21.4K subscribers. 😁 I figured that all out after your first video. Thanks for the video!
Maybe one day George! 🤪
Hi Rich, once you flip over the sheet after running side 1 how do you align the coins on side 2? With any space on the outer edges they would not be on top of one another. Thanks.
Keep an eve on the channel. I'll be making a video on it in the next few weeks.
Lol, “…give me your design and proprietary stuff so I can copy your business…” people are so funny.
Oddly enough I replicated it easily from watching the videos and it took my cuts to the next level… I made a business sign and it was super light and bad before, now it’s crisp and clean looking based on this coin. It really works!
I have a question tho, when you go to engrave the other side, do you just take all the coins and flip them over in the cutout spot on the wood and then run the second job or do you do the backside first then flip it over and let it cut them after with offsetting the job to fit? Do you have issue with the back being offset at all?
I use a jig in the top right corner of the work area. I used to pop them out with a pin and flip them over, but now with the jig, I do the back side first, and then flip the entire board over to do the front. Works like a charm.
Great tutorial! Thank you for sharing!
You are so welcome Mike!
Thanks Rich for another great video tutorial.
How would I line up the back part of the coin to be in the same plane,, the text on the same plane as the front of the coin?
I've run into this problem with a couple other jobs I did and I don't know how to act to get it so it's perfect.
I just stab them with my x-acto knife and do a quick flip, left to right, works well.
Can you tell me how long it takes to make your business card? The method is amazing
It depends on what laser I'm using. I usually use the Co2, so about 2 minutes each for each side.
was doing great till we come to adding graphic it won't repeat rows and when it does it out
I don't understand.
Well ilove all your vids. But ome thing i am unable to solve is as a new cnc and lazer "hobbyist" i have no idea how to charge for lase engraving or cutting or cnc engraving if and when i decide to go shop wise. I am from south africa. Please help me solve this issue
There is no absolute guide to pricing your work. You would have to look at the local marketplace to get pricing ideas.
nice and quick
🤪 I don't do anything quick anymore Jacques! 😎
What is the best wood for the coins thank you for your time
Solid Oak seems to be the best for me.
Thank you for your content and patience. On the business coin, after you burn and cut out the front, how do you align and and engrave the back?
It's in the video, I just pluck them out with an x-acto knife and filp them over.
When you pluck out the coins be sure to NOT move the piece they were cut out of, or they will not align correctly.
@@josephosorio5718 Yes, you have to tape down the wood, or I use really strong magnets.
Excellent step by step. thank you. I am missing one part. I ASSUME that COIN2 is the flip side of COIN1, and when printed, each coin will have COIN1/2 engraved , one per side. The part I am missing is that since the array is not fully symmetric across the x axis ( the 6 coins ); meaning the area to the right of the last coin is not equal to the area to the left of the first coin, then when you flip the wood over to engrave that other side (coin1) they (both sides) will not be aligned thru the wood. They would be skewed left or right. ( mouth full, hope you understand) . How is that accounted for. Extreme case would be to make 1 coin in the upper left. The coin faces would be misaligned by the width (~15") of the sheet..
Anyway, off to play wit that. Thanks.....................
I don't flip the wood Mark, just the coins.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Makes sense. Thank you.
You flip each coin on wood board, then align coin within the cut hole? Seem if center template center, could burn coin back, the flip board, burn/cut out coin front side??
@@davidwilson2462 Yup, you can do that as well! I'm going to do that myself! Thanks for the tip!
Coins are a great idea. I still remember getting a 'wooden nickel' many years ago as a kid and probably still have it in one of my boxes. A question I do have as a newbie...on the reverse can I put in a QR Code to drive folks to a specific location? Do you have a video on your channel where you used a QR Code that I can watch? Thanks for your expertise.
I do somewhere Larry... just can't remember where! 🤪
First! Great video Rich
Thanks Michael! The early bird gets the worm!
So Im confused. Your cutting it out on side one, How are you supposed to line it all up for side2? and how do you make sure it is line up because when you flip the whole sheet it is not centered left to right so it will or can be off?
I only flip the coins, not the wood sheet. You could also use a framing square to line up the wood, center the graphic on the work bed, do the engraving on one side first, and then flip the wood and engrave and cut.
Thanks
Wow! Thank you so much! I appreciate the Support! 👍
No thanks, needed my friend. It's only fair seeing as I'm a member on your website, and now have an extensive array of art in my library courtesy of yourself. Pay it forwards as I've always said. I was unable to donate on the site as I don't use PayPal, so I was glad I was able to use RUclips instead.
Thanks so much for all you do as I'm learning more every day.
Also, I have a question. Will you at anytime be doing a cut and engrave library for the AlgoLaser alpha? I have been trying to contact them, but I don't have your clout, so I'm not expecting to hear from them. Once again many thanks for your inspiration
Cheers from over the pond.
Wayne
No I won't, maybe the Delta, but I'll mention it to Gil (tech support) when I see him at the Lightburn convention next week.
Many thanks, and most appreciated, my good man.
Also to comment as a noob to flatbed laser and lightburn, I was still getting confused on speed/power on my setup, so had a look in settings to realise that lighburn had set me to a C02 laser which was mm/sec which left me scratching my head and reformulating speed and power settings. You learn summat new everyday 👍
Rich, another great video. I've got my coin designed, and I'm trying to get the optimization settings created that will enable each coin to be engraved fully and cut out before moving to the next coin... I've played with layers and the optimization settings but can't seem to get it figured out....
Read the pinned comment Wes. The software has been upgraded since this video came out. The link to the new video is in the pinned comment.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Sorry, I don't see the pinned comment...
Disregard that Wes 🤪 I was thinking it was another video.
Rich, I am trying to find your video where you create an array and when you move the mouse to a different box on the array the laser moves too, please let me know what video that was. Thanks
I have over 100 videos Mike, not sure which one that is, sorry!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy ok
Hi,
I don't know if I missed it but how thick is the wood used?
I use 3 or 5mm wood. I prefer 3mm hardwood.
So how does this work when you flip the luan over to do the other side? Looks like the registration would be off and engraved in the wrong place as the front? And do we engrave the back and then the front when we cut?
Sorry if this has been asked and answered before, but after watching lots of your videos, and they are awesome BTW, this one has me baffled.
Yes, it needs to be in a jig on one corner.
Great video Rich, i have one question, you made the size 390 X 390 with a 2" coin and some how you were able to get an array that was 6 X 7. It seems to me that he array should have been equal, either 6 X 6, or 7 X 7, how did that happen or am i missing something?
Maybe the spacing.
following this video, problem Grid Array will not multiply
It does, you just have to play with the settings.
how did you set the initial square to a tool path? i dont know what that is and you dont say in the video how to do it
Look at the colored boxes on the bottom of your screen Matthew, those are the layer selection. If you select an item and click on either T1 or T2, it will put that selection on a tool path.
Another great video! One question though - why not engrave all 150 coins, then flip the entire board, engrave all the other sides and only then cut? Wouldn't that save a bunch of time? (Especially if you have a jig for it).
Is there a downside to this approach that I'm not seeing?
Thanks!
Yes, that is certainly the obvious choice, however, just a fraction of an inch off on one side and half of them are toast. Ask me how I know! It's hard to jig a large piece of material perfectly.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy makes sense! :) Thanks!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy ok,, so a jig to place the jig into so it would be exactly the same place,, I saw someone maybe yo laid a carpenter's square down on grate and put the item right in the corner,, maybe ???
Where do I go to make my lettering to curve around the circle I have made?
Select the text and click and drag the little blue dot in the top right corner Connie.
Rich, great video explaining the process to make it much easier! One question, how much time does it normally take to run this job? Thanks!
The single one I did for the video took about 15 minutes on the diode. I do these 150 at a time on the Co2 and that is a 50 min job David.
Just had to confirm. Set up a template of 25 on my diode and the time was 4+ hours. 🤣 One day I'll have a CO2...one day.
@@esqueezeImperivm Yeah, it takes a bit longer on the diode lasers.
Hi Rich, How thick is the Luan? I looked on Lowes website and the have 1/4" thick boards. I am going to be using am Ortur Master 3 BTW. Thanks.
I use 1/4" luan.
Kinda surprised you didn’t use BR-549 as a phone number. 🤔
BR-549? Hee Haw?
Question for you
I notice you and other channels always use the center to align your work, never using the laser’s structure to align your work, why not?.
What I’ve done is glue 3mm boards to a piece of mdf so that the honey comb and laser are fixed in the same position then cut my templates (two 3mm plywood with small magnets inset and glued to the bottom plywood) to fit into the honey comb's corner this allows me to place and align the work quickly every time.
Well in most of my videos I use absolute coordinates James, so no, I don't start any jobs in the center, never have. I mainly use either jigs or the actual corners on the honeycomb.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thanks for the comeback I do appreciate it.
Thank you so much for teaching us how to make our own. Wouldn’t it be quicker to engrave the 1st side, turn the whole sheet over then engrave and cut so they will all be lined up the same?
Of course to do it this way you would have to center your array.
If you setup a jig to do it that would work. I'm not that brave Karen! 👍 The jig would need to be 100% perfect.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy it would be easy for you! You da man! 🤪
@@karenhadden4980 I'll try it next time Karen!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Great video, and info, but as Karen saw also, I can't see cutting each piece and then have to flip each one over into the cut hole, and then run the second side, but I saw as she, that with the template being near left side and a wide right side if you just flip the board, the text would not be correct spot, so maybe like she said centering the whole first side and remove the cut, then put the cut on the second side, but I am just learning and just have my head going in circles over how you do this stuff,, AMAZING !!!
Thanks Rich.
I'm doing something very wrong, as my Virtual Array does not "remember" the spacing.
It copies all the lines, but the images and text ends up all over the place, and not automatically in the rest of the array like yours does.
I have to manually enter distances to space it evenly into the rest of the array.
I don't know why it's doing that Riaan. I have done it on 3 computers and never had that problem. You can ask on the Lightburn forum and I'm sure they can tell you what setting is wrong.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thank you so much. I will ask them. It's most likely an user issue, but that is how I learn.
Check to see that "distance from center to center" is checked in the array menu. I think this has an effect.
Hi Rich, thanks for making great tuition Videos.. I picked up an Atomstack A5 Pro and I'm just getting used to various settings in the software. I'm using LaserGRBL at the moment. I wondered if I could ask how easy it is to engrave a photo on a blank Coaster? have you any videos on this Rich? Many thanks Martin..
Well it is Martin, but not with LaserGRBL. LG uses 3 layers, so you won't get the shades of gray like you do with Lightburn.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Hi Rich thanks for the reply. I notice from the reviews Lightburn is better software. I have connected via Lightburn but not cut or engraved anything when I cluck the frame button the laser shoots of to one corner. I have no limit switches so I'm worried about over driving the axis. I can jog the head in the move section but I can't stop the over travel using the frame function.
@@martinbleasby9448 Set the origin on the laser tab to Current position and then move it by hand to where you want the job to start.
How do you fix problems with text and graphics not lining up with the array within your design?
I don't know, I've never had that problem Reginald.
Thanks
Thank you for your quick response. I really enjoy your videos. I also joined your forum.
Hi Rich trying to make some coins to give away when I go to offset and set a second ellipse and press ok the ellipse will not copy to the remaining coins hope you can help.
Steven.
Best to create one complete graphic and then just do the virtual array Steven.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy thanks found the fix Steven.
Mr.Rich .I am electronics hobbys I want make my PCBs (one or 2 side copper FR2,FR4 materials )
Could you advice me laser engraving machine for this kind jobs Working area is 25 x20 cm(10x8 inch) enought for me
Also please advice laser Head wavelenght too (Kit)
Thank you
Can't give you advice on that since I have no experience with it, sorry!
"Teach a man to fish"
Love it! 👍
I am leaving youtube. Maybe I will find you on another platform.
I am on Instagram. louisianahobbyguy
Lowes luan- having trouble finding on their site
I get it in-store 2 aisles over from the lumber in the hobby wood section.