Per Genus Brewing recommendation, just add 3-5 grams of ascorbic acid into your water pre mash-in and that will take care of all your oxidation concerns - you won't have to worry about using any malted oats at all. The ascorbic will remove the precursors that lead to oxidation. I've been doing this for years now and my NEIPA keg stability is insane - 3+ months later (it rarely lasts that long) and it's the same golden color as it was on day 1.
Yup, use it all the time but I just forgot to add it and film it, and instead added at kegging. Works fine either way but its just another line of defense when combined with other techniques. I'd rather layer multiple techniques to combat oxidation than rely on one alone.
@@TheApartmentBrewer I am reliably informed that the boil will de-nature the ascorbic acid, so putting it in the mash is pointless. Your way is much better. The reason Genus brewing do it is that they have a commercial scale setup. Hot-side oxidation is not a worry for small-scale home-brewers.
Steve, I have been brewing various beers for the fourth year and have come to the conclusion that I am a follower of the classics...Everything is muddy, smelly, and even sour from the evil one)))
New Fermenter? Will there be a video about it? You could probably also explain the advantages of pressure fermentation and when to use it / when not. Thx.
Any thoughts on the length of time you are dry hopping? I keep seeing that anything after 72 hours doesn't give additional extraction. Keep up the great job!🍻
Usually I do 3-5 days on average. I imagine there are diminishing returns but for a DDH unless you're separating the hops each time, that first dry hop addition is going to sit in there longer than 3 days.
Have you considered dextrin malt / carapils? You see it a ton in NEIPAs for that body and a bit of sweetness you are looking for? Otherwise looks like a good one. Great 1.0 that will benefit from a 2.0 attempt! Anything you think you picked up that was from the yeast?
Definitely would help to have that dextrin in there. I've made quite a few of these even without dextrin malt though and its the first time its dropped that low in the end. There's no way the yeast was ester-free but I had trouble differentiating between yeast ester and hop flavor as far as fruity goodness. It blends very well.
Is there significantly less CO2 coming out of the vessel with this method given that the spunding valve lets CO2 out once it hits the target pressure? Some goes in the beer but it’s not clear to me how much less comes out… Would you recommend a conical for this or do you prefer this method? Thanks!
I'm not sure how much CO2 is retained vs released but the beer is fully carbonated by the time fermentation is done, and when that CO2 is dissolved into it, it keeps those aromatic compounds in solution much more effectively. A conical will work but it should be a pressure-rated unitank.
great video Steve! I do a ton of Hazy's.... I would recommend swapping out the golden naked oats for white wheat.... what I usually use for my base malt bill for Hazy's is: 9-10lbs Pilsen, 2lbs white wheat and 3lbs flaked oats. I like my Hazy's to be around 6.5-7% I just recently had one dry out more than expected, it got down to 1.008, when it tends to get down below 10.014... I will add .5-1lb of lactose in when kegging.... it makes a ton of difference
Apologies if you've covered this in another video, but, what pressure would you carbonate this beer in the keg and for how long, and what pressure for serving?
For the mash, how did you dial in the recipe with those flaked wheat. I tend to run into efficiency problems with my mash when I add flaked. I also use a clawhammer 120v all-in-one system and attempted to use the same grain bill. My mash efficiency is around 52% on average (tried my recipe 3x using the same grain bill you are using) What was your mash efficiency with this recipe? Any tips for the efficiency issue?
Hmm, that seems very very low for what you should be getting on the clawhammer. I usually get at least 70% efficiency overall on the system. Check your temperature calibration, crush a bit finer, don't rush the mash if you are, those are really my biggest tips.
Hey there, probably late into this but "never too late to learn". Just a possibly dumb question but when dry hopping with a bag in an all-rounder (just got one 👍) how do you wash/sanitize it afterwards. Or even sanitize before without dampening the pellets? See I told you it was a dumb question. Love the vid btw, I 'think' I've been encouraged to experiment. Cheers
Not a dumb question - there's nothing wrong with dipping the bag in some sanitizer, but its really not necessary for the most part. I've never had a problem result from that.
After the first dry hop addition do you pressurize the fermenter to 10 PSI as well or do you just let the residual primary fermentation raise the pressure slowly?
Beautiful color!! I’ve started using golden naked oats in my hazies and I love the color it provides! Also have used verdant and would love to try it in a NEIPA. Cheers Steve!!!
Hi Steve, Verdant IPA is a beast, the krausen can be huge ( i have had a couple of overnight surprises with it) and it is also very attentuative but it does complement the flavours of this beer style very well. I would agree pressure fermentation is a serious consideration for this. Cheers
Great video! I'm going to have to give the pressure fermenting trick a try now. I have read from Scott Janish that Vic Secret and Amarillo don't biotransform, so I think I would leave them in the second dry hop only. He also is doing a lot of short and cold dry hops in a soft crash that work tremendously for extracting that juice and not getting hop creep/burn
I’ve been putting off a NEIPA since I started brewing, but have an All Rounder already, and have the hop bong kit on the way so I think it’s about time to get one going. Great video as always Steve!
I don't quite get how the pressure/spunding valve help preserving the strong hop charatecter. If the problem with water lock is that the hop aroma escapes through it with the gas produced by the fermentation, isn't it the same with a spunding valve? I mean once the pressure exceeds the limit you set with the valve, the gasses are getting out?
Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to question the validity of this method as I've read about this many times and I'm about to try it for my next batch of hazy ipa :) as I'm trying to learn about the more advanced techniques I'd just want to understand the 'whys' behind the process, rather than just blindly follow the instructions. And this kinda hit me like a 'showerthought' as I was planning my next brewday; what's the difference if you let the gas out through a water lock or a spunding valve? Do you pressurize the fermentor to desired pressure when you attach the spunding valve, or do you let fermentation to build up the pressure? Maybe this has something to do with the solubility of hop aromas under pressure as CO2 is dissolving in wort? Anyways, just recently found your videos and I really like the way you explain stuff in detail 👍
Can never go wrong with citra, Simcoe, and Amarillo. I've recently gone back to this trio as cryo hops. All time aroma and flavor. I'm gonna use your recipe for my next batch. The lighter body haze is nice to have on tap when it's the end of stout/porter season
Really cool! Enjoyed your techniques in the vid! Do you know if there's any science out there behind spunding "containing" the aroma or having a more positive impact on it overall? In the same way - will excessive purging diminish the aroma of a beer?
I don't have any science to give you but in my experience (this is the 8th hazy IPA on the channel) this makes a huge difference. The beer is fully carbonated by the time fermentation is done, and when that CO2 is dissolved into it, it keeps those aromatic compounds in solution much more effectively. CO2 definitely strips aromas out of the beer during fermentation.
Awesome brew Steve! I just brewed my first NEIPA using WLP095 Burlington Ale, and flaked wheat/oats were only ~15% of grain bill. I was disappointed in both the color and haze, or lack thereof. Version 2 will see flaked oats at ~30% and will be using WLP066 London Fog. Keep cranking the content brother, cheers 🍻
Thanks for sharing. I'm surprised that you didn't get anything from the Golden Naked Oats. I've used it a couple times in hazy ipa/apas and really noticed it giving a quaker granola bar like character that didn't fit in the beer.. at least I was blaming it on the Oats. Either way I've preferred batches without it. I've made a few batches with Verdant IPA yeast.. and actually the yeast batch where I re-pitched the yeast rather than pitching fresh dry gave a really nice ester profile.
I'm still a bit unsure of why that is. By all accounts it should contribute a lot of flavor. Interesting note on the 2G Verdant pitch, I'll have to try that!
This looks delicious!! I’m late to the beer game. I’ve always been a whiskey girl. So as teens when everyone was drinking their Nasty Natty, I was drinking Jack. Lol I have found that NEIPA’s are some of my faves along with sours. As a foodie and chef I’ve discovered that anything I eat or drink I want to be an absolute flavor punch in the face. We were discussing opening a food truck and I said my tag line would be, ‘All your favorites, all methed up!’ My wife vetoed the meth line! 😂 I like the flavors, not just bitter hop blah. Just got my first beer kits in, an Apple, and a pumpkin for the fall, and an NEIPA. I’ll be checking out some of your other videos on best practices before I get to the hazy. I just have buckets and a fermonster then bottles. I’ll be working on the equipment to make the 02 exposure minimal before I make it. Thanks for great info and reviews after the process. Btw, my Mom is from Portsmouth, so we have lots of family in that area. Love visiting!
Just one simple Idea for the future of your tastings. I think about the amount of beer you are always pouring into your glassware. Of course it looks beautiful when you fill it up and the foam sits on top of it and its full until the top, but when it comes to the tasting, there is simply just no room for all the aroma, it just disapears it doesnt concentrate in the headspace above the Beer. Some Time ago i told you, via Instagram, about the german engeniered glassware from Spiegelau, all of them are bigger than 0.33 or 0.5 Liter because of that! There is allways enough headspace so that you are really able to smell everything you put into your beer, especially with that kind of beer. Anyways, will definetly use your recepie as a guideline in the future brew :) ever thought about Sharing it via brewfather? Cheers from Germany!
I’m sorry if you’ve mentioned this or answered this question previously, but would you mind sharing your typical mash efficiency with your claw hammer system? You don’t typically sparge from what I recall.
My local beer store is so loaded with NEIPAs that the shelves look like an Easter holiday decoration store. Pink/purple pastel overpriced pint cans everywhere. They've become the Marvel movie franchise of beer. Decent beers, but there's wayyyyyyyyy too many of them and they crowd out competition. Just gets old. I have trouble finding an amber ale sometimes, lol. Enjoy your videos as always, cheers.
Same here! The visual element has to be there to sell beer nowadays. Especially here in the northeast there is such a high concentration of these beer I fully understand the fatigue!
Hi Steve, I really enjoyed this video because Verdant is a yeast I want to try to make a Hazy with and I like how you try newer or different methods and report back on it all. So I have a question, did you consider or measure your wort PH before moving it to the fermenter or after mashing? The reason I ask is because I'm reading up on 2 things - How hop flavors and aromas are perceived depending on the beer's PH, generally a lower PH is preferred say less than 5.5-ish. And how dry hopping actually raises the beer's PH. Cheers and Thanks!
I am new to this home brew thing, and I have a question. Do you remove the first dry hop bags you put in by hand, or do you just leave them in for the entire fermenting process. I am guessing you did since this is a pressurized fermenter, and you did not want to take a chance of oxidation.
Ideally you can remove them but because of the pressure fermentation you would probably not want to do that. In some cases it's OK to leave them in a bit longer than recommended if you keep the temperature down.
Great video as always, thank you. Can I ask whether you used the same keg for serving that you used for the conditioning and D-rest step? I'm wondering if a lot of yeast etc. would make it over to that keg given that the transfer happened before any cold crashing. Apologies if you covered that and I missed it
Doing a "D" rest in the keg is a new technique to me. I'll try it but damn, now another week to the process. Its like making a Lager. Also, It seems like every time I get a N.E. Hazy at a brewery they are unlike yours, slightly milky in color. Do you think they are slipping in a small percentage of Lactose sugar? They seem to be on the sweet side.
I would rather wait an extra week for a better beer than rush it to not be as good as it could be. There is a lot of variation on sweetness in the style, but it does seem that its more popular to be sweeter. Could be lactose, could be dextrin, who knows?
Is it necessary to let the keg sit at room temp for another week? I have heard of kegging after 10 days in primary and force carbing so that it can quicker grain to glass. Will the beer still "clean itself up" at 36F in the keg.
Not entirely but it will help get rid of two unpleasant things - hop burn and diacetyl from hop creep (if you have any). If you get it cold that diacetyl won't go away but the hop burn will.
Very interesting ! I never let my hops more than 3 days (+2 cold crash) in dryhoping. What about a close transfert after the first DH, and another one after the 2nd ?
Did your neighbor flip you off? haha. Great video man! I might have to brew this! I think I have all the ingredients for this except the yeast, but I can sub that with something I have. cheers!
Just saw a video about how the time frames for dry hopping and how it affects hazy, and it was super interesting...apparently if you drop hop later you get better haze, wasn't sure if you saw this but figured you would find it interesting
Interesting indeed. My understanding is most of the stable haze is created during the early dry hop where polyphenols from the hops bind to proteins, but I'm not sure if that would work the same way with a late dry hop. Double dry hopping certainly ensures you get haze though!
Brilliant video mate ! Also love the direction of travel for the production your doing, loved the flying in comments ! As an aside what is the fermentation app your using, I guessed it may have been tilt ?
I absolutely love this yeast! If you ferment right, you should get notes of apricot, vanilla and yoghurt! It sounds like you didn't get to experience this much with this brew, maybe from the pressurized ferment but I'm not sure. Also, the brewery where the yeast come from have outright said they don't like to bother with biotransformation dry hopping with this yeast. So, you could give it a go where you don't dry hop during this phase and see if you get more of the apricot, yoghurt vibes from that. I hope to see you brewing more with this yeast, it really is one of my favourites :)
Another great video! I find that going about 60/40 Pilsner or 2-row with golden promise as the base gives beautiful color and just the right amount of malt flavor
Nice hop choice, looks great. I’ve had good results eliminating hop creep and burn by chilling to 55ish ferinhiet before dry hopping followed by a 48 cold crash before packaging.
Your recipe is eerily similar to mine that I have in the fermenter right now. SG was 1.064 and my FG is about the same. I was worried about that until your video. Thanks for the tip about transferring to keg and leaving at room temp for a week. I hadn't planned on doing that but I will now
I brewed a neipa with the same yeast and cryo Citra, was one of my best beers so far. Unfortunately the hop flavour vanished very quickly since I bottle and I don’t have enough space in the fridge to keep all bottles cold. Do you think adding more hops would have helped? I didn’t go too heavy on whirpool and dry hop, since I was concerned with oxidation and hop burn. P.s. I just ordered the Lallemand Novalager to brew a Czech Pilsner, are you planning on using that on future brews? Cheers from Italy
I need to try out a bunch of new lallemand yeasts! Novalager is on the list for sure. I hope your NEIPA didn't oxidize in the bottle. Next time I would increase your whirlpool additions since that doesn't have an impact on oxidation.
@@TheApartmentBrewer thanks for the advice. I don’t think it was oxidised, the color didn’t change overtime and I didn’t notice any off flavours. The first bottles were full with tropical fruit aroma and flavour, but unfortunatly the last I opened just had a hint of that.
Hey Steve, another great video. If you can get it in the States you should try Nectaron hops from New Zealand. Stupidly great NEIPA hop and I tend to throw it in all my honebrewed Hazys
Great video as usual! Any chance we'll be see an Exchilerator video soon? If so, would love to see how you use it to whirlpool. Just got mine the other day and used it once (on a hazy). I think I have it down but couldn't find much footage on whirlpooling with it.
I did a Kveik IPA and accidentally dry hopped on day 0 when I knocked the magnet for the hop bag from the outside of the fermenter. Didn't matter, fermentation was done in 4 days. And absolutely delicious.
Great looking beer! I like the magnets idea for dry hopping. Do you need to worry about the krausen or an over-active fermentation getting the hops wet, or, if you’re not fermenting under pressure, do you need to worry about hops going bad?
I asked myself the same question. Bus as it is in a environment which is almost fully filled co2 i think if they dont stay to long there‘s not a big problem
Since I dry hopped basically after the krausen blew through my airlock I didn't need to worry about them getting wet. The CO2 in the headspace will keep them fresh, pressure or not, as long as the beer is still actively fermenting when you get them in there.
Good question! It's because when you pressurize the beer before hand and add dry hops the rapid breaking apart of the hop Pellets makes the beer virtually explode in your face. Not a fun time
1. Surprised you didn't add any ascorbic acid, but I think at this point you have enough tools thay oxidation might not be a big deal 2. I was curious as to what you were going to do for the water chemistry, so I'll be piecing through that 3. Considering how far the grav came down maybe with this yeast mash at like a crazy high 158? Idk just a thought Looked delicious of course...Cheers
So I actually did, but forgot to film it. Added at kegging this time instead of during the mash as usual. Probably would add some dextrin malt if using verdant again.
Belgian beers out, "crazy hazies" in!!! One can already taste the summer yumm
Haha this is true, summer can't come soon enough!
At 21 minutes, the neighbor throws a peace sign. Gotta love neighbors. ✌️
Lol I didn't even notice this until now
Making my mouth water. Delicious looking beer. Always love a good Hazy. Have one conditioning in the keg right now in fact. Cheers!
Cheers! Hope yours turns out great as well!
Per Genus Brewing recommendation, just add 3-5 grams of ascorbic acid into your water pre mash-in and that will take care of all your oxidation concerns - you won't have to worry about using any malted oats at all. The ascorbic will remove the precursors that lead to oxidation. I've been doing this for years now and my NEIPA keg stability is insane - 3+ months later (it rarely lasts that long) and it's the same golden color as it was on day 1.
He has actually recommended doing this a few times in the past, curious if there is any reason it's not mentioned in this vid
Beat me to it
Pressure fermented, and closed transferred, shouldn't be any need for that acid guys? What you recon?
Yup, use it all the time but I just forgot to add it and film it, and instead added at kegging. Works fine either way but its just another line of defense when combined with other techniques. I'd rather layer multiple techniques to combat oxidation than rely on one alone.
@@TheApartmentBrewer I am reliably informed that the boil will de-nature the ascorbic acid, so putting it in the mash is pointless. Your way is much better. The reason Genus brewing do it is that they have a commercial scale setup. Hot-side oxidation is not a worry for small-scale home-brewers.
Steve, I have been brewing various beers for the fourth year and have come to the conclusion that I am a follower of the classics...Everything is muddy, smelly, and even sour from the evil one)))
Nothing wrong with the classics!
New Fermenter? Will there be a video about it? You could probably also explain the advantages of pressure fermentation and when to use it / when not. Thx.
Not going to do a video on it yet because it is still in a prototype state.
Lots of cool techniques. Awesome video.
Thank you and glad you enjoyed it!
Any thoughts on the length of time you are dry hopping? I keep seeing that anything after 72 hours doesn't give additional extraction. Keep up the great job!🍻
Usually I do 3-5 days on average. I imagine there are diminishing returns but for a DDH unless you're separating the hops each time, that first dry hop addition is going to sit in there longer than 3 days.
20:57 Hello...chuckles
Hahahaha I JUST noticed this! My neighbor is awesome
21:00 and Your neighbor ;-) greetings from Poland homebrewers!
Have you considered dextrin malt / carapils? You see it a ton in NEIPAs for that body and a bit of sweetness you are looking for?
Otherwise looks like a good one. Great 1.0 that will benefit from a 2.0 attempt!
Anything you think you picked up that was from the yeast?
Definitely would help to have that dextrin in there. I've made quite a few of these even without dextrin malt though and its the first time its dropped that low in the end. There's no way the yeast was ester-free but I had trouble differentiating between yeast ester and hop flavor as far as fruity goodness. It blends very well.
Is there significantly less CO2 coming out of the vessel with this method given that the spunding valve lets CO2 out once it hits the target pressure? Some goes in the beer but it’s not clear to me how much less comes out… Would you recommend a conical for this or do you prefer this method? Thanks!
I'm not sure how much CO2 is retained vs released but the beer is fully carbonated by the time fermentation is done, and when that CO2 is dissolved into it, it keeps those aromatic compounds in solution much more effectively. A conical will work but it should be a pressure-rated unitank.
too much alcohol for a real hazy ipa
Lol nah
Peep your balcony neighbor in the video bomb lol being deployed and watching your videos just makes me wanna be back and brewing more and more
great video Steve! I do a ton of Hazy's.... I would recommend swapping out the golden naked oats for white wheat.... what I usually use for my base malt bill for Hazy's is: 9-10lbs Pilsen, 2lbs white wheat and 3lbs flaked oats. I like my Hazy's to be around 6.5-7% I just recently had one dry out more than expected, it got down to 1.008, when it tends to get down below 10.014... I will add .5-1lb of lactose in when kegging.... it makes a ton of difference
Hey Chris, thank you for the suggestions! I think a lot of this has to do with Verdant, if I was to use it again I'd definitely add more dextrins.
Apologies if you've covered this in another video, but, what pressure would you carbonate this beer in the keg and for how long, and what pressure for serving?
Brilliant video. Am I right in saying if you checked FG and cold crashed, you could have lowered abv? Is there any negatives to cold crashing?
How much water would you need if doing this in a brewzilla?
For the mash, how did you dial in the recipe with those flaked wheat. I tend to run into efficiency problems with my mash when I add flaked. I also use a clawhammer 120v all-in-one system and attempted to use the same grain bill. My mash efficiency is around 52% on average (tried my recipe 3x using the same grain bill you are using) What was your mash efficiency with this recipe? Any tips for the efficiency issue?
Hmm, that seems very very low for what you should be getting on the clawhammer. I usually get at least 70% efficiency overall on the system. Check your temperature calibration, crush a bit finer, don't rush the mash if you are, those are really my biggest tips.
Hey there, probably late into this but "never too late to learn". Just a possibly dumb question but when dry hopping with a bag in an all-rounder (just got one 👍) how do you wash/sanitize it afterwards. Or even sanitize before without dampening the pellets? See I told you it was a dumb question. Love the vid btw, I 'think' I've been encouraged to experiment. Cheers
Not a dumb question - there's nothing wrong with dipping the bag in some sanitizer, but its really not necessary for the most part. I've never had a problem result from that.
@@TheApartmentBrewer thank you, definitely going to try a bag first before investing in a hop bong. Keep up the good work with your vids 👍
After the first dry hop addition do you pressurize the fermenter to 10 PSI as well or do you just let the residual primary fermentation raise the pressure slowly?
I re-pressurized after the first dry hop
Beautiful color!! I’ve started using golden naked oats in my hazies and I love the color it provides! Also have used verdant and would love to try it in a NEIPA. Cheers Steve!!!
Cheers Brian! Still have some tweaking to do on the golden naked oats but I really enjoyed Verdant!
The huge mess will be down to the 2 packs of verdant, it's a monster, and you don't need that much of it.
Lol yeah it sure made for a massive krausen. I decided to go with two packs though just because of the higher OG.
1 Week of fermn + 1 week for conditions (room temperature). This is correct??? Thanks
At 17:51 I go over the fermentation quickly
shout out to your neighbor peeking out of the door and throwing up the deuce!
Haha he's awesome
2 packets of Verdant with limited head space.... was it messy ??
Lol, you're telling me
what app/tool are you using to monitor SG for that fancy graph versus time?
Anton paar easydens/smartref app
Hi Steve, Verdant IPA is a beast, the krausen can be huge ( i have had a couple of overnight surprises with it) and it is also very attentuative but it does complement the flavours of this beer style very well. I would agree pressure fermentation is a serious consideration for this. Cheers
I really loved it to be honest, next time I use it I will add some dextrin malt though
That's interesting, i have literally just taken delivery of some dextrin for the very same reason 👍🏻😁
Great video! I'm going to have to give the pressure fermenting trick a try now. I have read from Scott Janish that Vic Secret and Amarillo don't biotransform, so I think I would leave them in the second dry hop only. He also is doing a lot of short and cold dry hops in a soft crash that work tremendously for extracting that juice and not getting hop creep/burn
I'll have to check that out!
20:56 Hello neighbour! 🙂
Lol he's awesome
I’ve been putting off a NEIPA since I started brewing, but have an All Rounder already, and have the hop bong kit on the way so I think it’s about time to get one going. Great video as always Steve!
Nice! Sounds like you're set up for success!
@21:00 hello neighbour !!😂
I don't quite get how the pressure/spunding valve help preserving the strong hop charatecter. If the problem with water lock is that the hop aroma escapes through it with the gas produced by the fermentation, isn't it the same with a spunding valve? I mean once the pressure exceeds the limit you set with the valve, the gasses are getting out?
I can't fully explain why it seems to be a difference, maybe its a placebo effect for me, but I notice a difference.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to question the validity of this method as I've read about this many times and I'm about to try it for my next batch of hazy ipa :) as I'm trying to learn about the more advanced techniques I'd just want to understand the 'whys' behind the process, rather than just blindly follow the instructions. And this kinda hit me like a 'showerthought' as I was planning my next brewday; what's the difference if you let the gas out through a water lock or a spunding valve?
Do you pressurize the fermentor to desired pressure when you attach the spunding valve, or do you let fermentation to build up the pressure? Maybe this has something to do with the solubility of hop aromas under pressure as CO2 is dissolving in wort?
Anyways, just recently found your videos and I really like the way you explain stuff in detail 👍
@@whl9815 no worries, you may be on to something with that though. I always just let the natural pressure build up when I spund.
Love the neighbor drop in at 21:00 lol
Can never go wrong with citra, Simcoe, and Amarillo. I've recently gone back to this trio as cryo hops. All time aroma and flavor. I'm gonna use your recipe for my next batch. The lighter body haze is nice to have on tap when it's the end of stout/porter season
They work very well together!
Amazing combo !!!
Great vid. Props to the legendary neighbor at 20:59.
Haha he is indeed a legend
Really cool! Enjoyed your techniques in the vid! Do you know if there's any science out there behind spunding "containing" the aroma or having a more positive impact on it overall? In the same way - will excessive purging diminish the aroma of a beer?
I don't have any science to give you but in my experience (this is the 8th hazy IPA on the channel) this makes a huge difference. The beer is fully carbonated by the time fermentation is done, and when that CO2 is dissolved into it, it keeps those aromatic compounds in solution much more effectively. CO2 definitely strips aromas out of the beer during fermentation.
Yum! Love these hops you used, fun to see some that i've never played with.
They were certainly fun to play with! Cheers!
Awesome brew Steve! I just brewed my first NEIPA using WLP095 Burlington Ale, and flaked wheat/oats were only ~15% of grain bill. I was disappointed in both the color and haze, or lack thereof. Version 2 will see flaked oats at ~30% and will be using WLP066 London Fog. Keep cranking the content brother, cheers 🍻
Cheers! Keep at it and you'll dial in a stable haze
Have you looked at using ALDC to stop diacetyl production? It’s been a game changer for me
I haven't used it yet but its been mentioned before. I need to try it out!
Another good 1. Is there anything you'd change to to add body back?
Thanks for sharing. I'm surprised that you didn't get anything from the Golden Naked Oats. I've used it a couple times in hazy ipa/apas and really noticed it giving a quaker granola bar like character that didn't fit in the beer.. at least I was blaming it on the Oats. Either way I've preferred batches without it. I've made a few batches with Verdant IPA yeast.. and actually the yeast batch where I re-pitched the yeast rather than pitching fresh dry gave a really nice ester profile.
I'm still a bit unsure of why that is. By all accounts it should contribute a lot of flavor. Interesting note on the 2G Verdant pitch, I'll have to try that!
This looks delicious!! I’m late to the beer game. I’ve always been a whiskey girl. So as teens when everyone was drinking their Nasty Natty, I was drinking Jack. Lol
I have found that NEIPA’s are some of my faves along with sours. As a foodie and chef I’ve discovered that anything I eat or drink I want to be an absolute flavor punch in the face. We were discussing opening a food truck and I said my tag line would be, ‘All your favorites, all methed up!’ My wife vetoed the meth line! 😂 I like the flavors, not just bitter hop blah. Just got my first beer kits in, an Apple, and a pumpkin for the fall, and an NEIPA. I’ll be checking out some of your other videos on best practices before I get to the hazy. I just have buckets and a fermonster then bottles. I’ll be working on the equipment to make the 02 exposure minimal before I make it.
Thanks for great info and reviews after the process.
Btw, my Mom is from Portsmouth, so we have lots of family in that area. Love visiting!
Haha that's awesome! Glad to help!
Just one simple Idea for the future of your tastings. I think about the amount of beer you are always pouring into your glassware. Of course it looks beautiful when you fill it up and the foam sits on top of it and its full until the top, but when it comes to the tasting, there is simply just no room for all the aroma, it just disapears it doesnt concentrate in the headspace above the Beer. Some Time ago i told you, via Instagram, about the german engeniered glassware from Spiegelau, all of them are bigger than 0.33 or 0.5 Liter because of that! There is allways enough headspace so that you are really able to smell everything you put into your beer, especially with that kind of beer.
Anyways, will definetly use your recepie as a guideline in the future brew :) ever thought about Sharing it via brewfather?
Cheers from Germany!
Thanks for the suggestions!
I’m sorry if you’ve mentioned this or answered this question previously, but would you mind sharing your typical mash efficiency with your claw hammer system? You don’t typically sparge from what I recall.
Usually I don't sparge, that's right. I don't know the efficiency off the top of my head but I think its around 70-75%
My local beer store is so loaded with NEIPAs that the shelves look like an Easter holiday decoration store. Pink/purple pastel overpriced pint cans everywhere. They've become the Marvel movie franchise of beer. Decent beers, but there's wayyyyyyyyy too many of them and they crowd out competition. Just gets old. I have trouble finding an amber ale sometimes, lol. Enjoy your videos as always, cheers.
Same here! The visual element has to be there to sell beer nowadays. Especially here in the northeast there is such a high concentration of these beer I fully understand the fatigue!
Hi Steve, I really enjoyed this video because Verdant is a yeast I want to try to make a Hazy with and I like how you try newer or different methods and report back on it all. So I have a question, did you consider or measure your wort PH before moving it to the fermenter or after mashing? The reason I ask is because I'm reading up on 2 things - How hop flavors and aromas are perceived depending on the beer's PH, generally a lower PH is preferred say less than 5.5-ish. And how dry hopping actually raises the beer's PH. Cheers and Thanks!
The things you are reading up on regarding pH are very true. I probably should have measured the post-boil pH but it worked out pretty well. Cheers!
Starting this summer, I am brewing nothing but hazy IPAs. Cheers
Palate fatigue IPA!
I am new to this home brew thing, and I have a question. Do you remove the first dry hop bags you put in by hand, or do you just leave them in for the entire fermenting process. I am guessing you did since this is a pressurized fermenter, and you did not want to take a chance of oxidation.
Ideally you can remove them but because of the pressure fermentation you would probably not want to do that. In some cases it's OK to leave them in a bit longer than recommended if you keep the temperature down.
I see the color, it's not a tuna ..., it's golden a beer!
Great video as always, thank you. Can I ask whether you used the same keg for serving that you used for the conditioning and D-rest step? I'm wondering if a lot of yeast etc. would make it over to that keg given that the transfer happened before any cold crashing. Apologies if you covered that and I missed it
I did, just makes the process a lot easier. I use floating dip tube in my kegs so the trub isn't a big deal
Doing a "D" rest in the keg is a new technique to me. I'll try it but damn, now another week to the process. Its like making a Lager. Also, It seems like every time I get a N.E. Hazy at a brewery they are unlike yours, slightly milky in color. Do you think they are slipping in a small percentage of Lactose sugar? They seem to be on the sweet side.
I would rather wait an extra week for a better beer than rush it to not be as good as it could be. There is a lot of variation on sweetness in the style, but it does seem that its more popular to be sweeter. Could be lactose, could be dextrin, who knows?
Is it necessary to let the keg sit at room temp for another week? I have heard of kegging after 10 days in primary and force carbing so that it can quicker grain to glass. Will the beer still "clean itself up" at 36F in the keg.
Not entirely but it will help get rid of two unpleasant things - hop burn and diacetyl from hop creep (if you have any). If you get it cold that diacetyl won't go away but the hop burn will.
Very interesting ! I never let my hops more than 3 days (+2 cold crash) in dryhoping. What about a close transfert after the first DH, and another one after the 2nd ?
Thats an option but also a lot of work extra. 5 days is my personal max
Did your neighbor flip you off? haha. Great video man! I might have to brew this! I think I have all the ingredients for this except the yeast, but I can sub that with something I have. cheers!
LMAO nah ✌he's cool, let me know if you have the same issues with the vic secret!
Hmm... I've bought a kit that only has vic secret hops!!! That should be interesting. Great vid again. Thanks
I think it would be a great standalone hop!
Just saw a video about how the time frames for dry hopping and how it affects hazy, and it was super interesting...apparently if you drop hop later you get better haze, wasn't sure if you saw this but figured you would find it interesting
Interesting indeed. My understanding is most of the stable haze is created during the early dry hop where polyphenols from the hops bind to proteins, but I'm not sure if that would work the same way with a late dry hop. Double dry hopping certainly ensures you get haze though!
Another nice video Steve. I have yet to try the verdant yeast, but I will have to soon. Looks like your neighbor says hello...hello back to you Sir!
Its a great yeast!
Brilliant video mate ! Also love the direction of travel for the production your doing, loved the flying in comments !
As an aside what is the fermentation app your using, I guessed it may have been tilt ?
Glad you are enjoying the production upgrades! I certainly am. I use the anton paar easydens which has its own app for fermentation tracking.
I absolutely love this yeast! If you ferment right, you should get notes of apricot, vanilla and yoghurt! It sounds like you didn't get to experience this much with this brew, maybe from the pressurized ferment but I'm not sure. Also, the brewery where the yeast come from have outright said they don't like to bother with biotransformation dry hopping with this yeast. So, you could give it a go where you don't dry hop during this phase and see if you get more of the apricot, yoghurt vibes from that.
I hope to see you brewing more with this yeast, it really is one of my favourites :)
Probably got blown out by the hops but I expect I'll be using it again!
I can't handle it anymore. I'm going to join your Patreon, I've really enjoyed your content. Thank you!
Thank you very much!! I hope you enjoy it!
Another great video! I find that going about 60/40 Pilsner or 2-row with golden promise as the base gives beautiful color and just the right amount of malt flavor
That sounds like a delicious base for it! I miss using GP.
I think fermenting this with Philly sour yeast might give some of that Granny Smith character
Very cool idea!
Nice hop choice, looks great. I’ve had good results eliminating hop creep and burn by chilling to 55ish ferinhiet before dry hopping followed by a 48 cold crash before packaging.
That may be what I start doing soon. Cheers!
Your recipe is eerily similar to mine that I have in the fermenter right now. SG was 1.064 and my FG is about the same. I was worried about that until your video. Thanks for the tip about transferring to keg and leaving at room temp for a week. I hadn't planned on doing that but I will now
Interesting! Hope it turns out just as good!
I brewed a neipa with the same yeast and cryo Citra, was one of my best beers so far. Unfortunately the hop flavour vanished very quickly since I bottle and I don’t have enough space in the fridge to keep all bottles cold. Do you think adding more hops would have helped? I didn’t go too heavy on whirpool and dry hop, since I was concerned with oxidation and hop burn.
P.s. I just ordered the Lallemand Novalager to brew a Czech Pilsner, are you planning on using that on future brews? Cheers from Italy
I need to try out a bunch of new lallemand yeasts! Novalager is on the list for sure. I hope your NEIPA didn't oxidize in the bottle. Next time I would increase your whirlpool additions since that doesn't have an impact on oxidation.
@@TheApartmentBrewer thanks for the advice. I don’t think it was oxidised, the color didn’t change overtime and I didn’t notice any off flavours. The first bottles were full with tropical fruit aroma and flavour, but unfortunatly the last I opened just had a hint of that.
What would you change in the process if you wanted to achieve a more medium body mouth feel?
Most likely would add some deliberate dextrin malt or switch up the yeast to a lower attenuator.
Verdant is a foamy beast! I see it got ya!
Hey Steve, another great video.
If you can get it in the States you should try Nectaron hops from New Zealand.
Stupidly great NEIPA hop and I tend to throw it in all my honebrewed Hazys
Citra and Nectaron 🤌👌, just polished off my hazy with these. little bit of mosaic in the wirlpool too.
Nectaron has been on my list for some time. A local brewery just put out a beer with it and I'm excited to try it
Great video as usual! Any chance we'll be see an Exchilerator video soon? If so, would love to see how you use it to whirlpool. Just got mine the other day and used it once (on a hazy). I think I have it down but couldn't find much footage on whirlpooling with it.
I suppose I could do that!
@@TheApartmentBrewer That would be awesome, thank you!
I did a Kveik IPA and accidentally dry hopped on day 0 when I knocked the magnet for the hop bag from the outside of the fermenter. Didn't matter, fermentation was done in 4 days. And absolutely delicious.
Sounds like a happy accident!
@@TheApartmentBrewer A hoppy accident 😂
Great looking beer! I like the magnets idea for dry hopping. Do you need to worry about the krausen or an over-active fermentation getting the hops wet, or, if you’re not fermenting under pressure, do you need to worry about hops going bad?
I asked myself the same question. Bus as it is in a environment which is almost fully filled co2 i think if they dont stay to long there‘s not a big problem
Since I dry hopped basically after the krausen blew through my airlock I didn't need to worry about them getting wet. The CO2 in the headspace will keep them fresh, pressure or not, as long as the beer is still actively fermenting when you get them in there.
Brewed this Saturday getting ready to dry hop today and put in second bag
Good luck!
Hey Steve, thanks for the video! Curious why you chose not to apply pressure until after the first dry hop?
Good question! It's because when you pressurize the beer before hand and add dry hops the rapid breaking apart of the hop Pellets makes the beer virtually explode in your face. Not a fun time
@@TheApartmentBrewer Got it - thank you!
Looks amazing AB!!!!!
😎👍🏻👍🏻🍺🍺
Thank you Tom!
Always you do this videos very simple I really love that cheers 🍻
Thank you! Cheers!
1. Surprised you didn't add any ascorbic acid, but I think at this point you have enough tools thay oxidation might not be a big deal
2. I was curious as to what you were going to do for the water chemistry, so I'll be piecing through that
3. Considering how far the grav came down maybe with this yeast mash at like a crazy high 158? Idk just a thought
Looked delicious of course...Cheers
So I actually did, but forgot to film it. Added at kegging this time instead of during the mash as usual. Probably would add some dextrin malt if using verdant again.