😂People should watch my vids, to let me know if I've done something wrong😬 or given out bad info 🙈 (very possible) but if not that, then glad you enjoyed a chilled 5 mins of content 😊👍🏻 cheers mate
Your amazing videos helped me maintain my 2012 cupra r myself, thanks! Hope you can help me a bit more: the car was throwing some p0171 codes, so i cleaned the MAF. No more codes, but still running lean. After changing MAF for a completely new one they stabilized around 19% LTFT. I suspected a vac leak but couldn’t find one. Dealer checked the car and diagnosed a bad high pressure hose. Replaced that one for a new one, but still no differences. Search continues. Used this vid to change the PCV valve, old one seemed broken and there was quite some oil inside. Thought this would fix it, but still no improvements on the LTFT. Car drives without any issues on this LTFT settings, other from a little rougher cold starts. When resetting fuel trims it idles very bad and slowly moves up again to around 19% LTFT and starts running fine. Im out of clues what might be causing this. Thinking of going back to the dealer but maybe you can help? Thanks alot!
Thanks for the kind words. As for your issue, you've tried a lot of what I would have suggested 😅🙈 I was going to say if the dealer smoke tested the vacuum system. Smoke tests are good for showing any small vac leaks. Also the seal on the dipstick sometimes deteriorates and lets air in, or a bad seal on the oil cap. Worth checking them as the engine runs to see if opening them up makes a noticeable running difference. If it does, it means there seals are good. How u manage to track it down mate. It's always horrible to try and find issues like that.
Thank you for the quick reply. I assume the dealer did that and came to that diagnosis, bur because it made no difference im suspecting it was just some visual inspection… Nevertheless i don’t suspect a vac leak tbh as the LTFT doesn’t change under load and the STFT doesn’t correct it. If any the STFT increases under load compared to idle. Hope the dealer can do some proper diagnosis this time 🥲
For anyone that does this job and replaces the hoses as well careful with the brake boost hose it runs along the thicker bottom hose and is easy to knock off I was pulling my hair out wondering why my idle got worse after fixing it till I seen it was off
Hi Peter, cheers, and do you mean the breather pipe at the rear of the camshaft cover? I'm not aware of another PCV valve on the engine, but there's probably one I'm unaware of 😅🙈
I didn't take a note of the old number I'm afraid, but if it is the older unit you'll see a slight difference between ur one and the new one I put on. Mostly it's the large circular bit on top that has changed design slightly.
Hi, thanks for the video - super informative. I have just changed mine and now its making a slightly metallic ticking noise? Is this normal and will it possibly go away once it has had some oil through it? Cheers!
Hi Andrew, cheers for watching. I'm not aware of a new one making this sort of noise before. It may be something nearby that is now making this noise as the pcv valve doesn't have much to it really, just a wee spring and a rubber diaphragm. It may elf lubricate over the next few runs, but if it continues I would get it checked out in case something else is about to cause you issues. Cheers 👍🏻
@@NorthCoastWorkshop cheers for the reply! No problem, I will keep an eye on it over the next couple journeys and see if it improves. Of course it's entirely possible that it was making the same noise before, but it's now more obvious because the idle is so smooth!
😂 yeah, well I was the same. "If it ain't broke.... fix it just in case" is one of my slogans on my merchandise, and this perfectly sums up that PCV 😂😂 Cheers for watching 👍🏻
Looks like the cap design/diaphragm design is different. Isn't it? Is it alright to change the design structure? I own an Audi A3 2007 1.8 TFSI. I am trying to replace PCV valve, but I couldn'r find it. Instead I am planning to buy a 2.0 PCV diaphragm and use it on my 1.8 PCV diaphragm. What are your thought?
Hi Mark, thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. As for swapping out the diaphragms, that might possibly work, as long as the diameters were the same. And yes the PCV I fitted in the video was the 'latest' revision from VW/Audi etc, and that diaphragm housing seemed to be the only update. If you do decide to swap them out, let me know how it goes 👍🏻
I'm unsure of the brand. It was from a supplier in the UK that supplies genuine seat/VW/Audi car parts, so it's available also through dealerships service departments. There's a link in the description to the one I purchased 👍🏻
Yes it will. And as for aftermarket, it may be fine, but I've heard the non genuine ones can sometimes cause problems. It's totally up to u, but I bought a OEM one to be safe for my car
Ah I see, like I said it's totally up to you if you maybe want to try aftermarket. I do but aftermarket products for other things, but was just for piece of mind I bought OEM for this one.
I forgot to mention I have a 2008 Seat Leon FR 2.0tfsi. Will the mentioned OEM fit for my engine? I can't find the OEM number for the old PCV. It's on the back of the PCV valve, but I'm lacking time to remove the current one 😅. Do you know the OEM before the revision version?
I've heard so many mixed reports. So my understanding is complete deletion is most likely going to cause running issues later on, a delete with a quality catch can setup can be ok if done correctly, and a new revision pcv is the safest and most reliable option. I bought a catch can ages ago, I still have it and was going to do a tutorial, but after all the stuff I read, I just opted to go for the new pcv and keep it in place. It does have a job to do on the engine after all.
@@dualysmirtin5144 it will definitely lower the carbon in the inlet, but the downside is it may cause running issues, excessive smoke, poor running on idle and poor mpg. The excessive carbon build up is a pain, but I'd say to have it cleaned every 50,000 miles would be worthwhile. After searching 'pcv delete problems' on Google, I stayed clear of delete kits. At the end of the day though, it's ur car and u can try out whatever mods u want. That's exactly what I do 😁
Hmmm, I'm not sure. Doesn't sound good. Sounds like a pulley or something mechanical that's spinning with the engine speed. I'd get it to a garage asap to see what they say. If it's something that's about to seize up or stop working soon, best to get it looked at immediately
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Why am I watching this video when I've already done this🤣 enjoy watching your videos mate keep it up👍
😂People should watch my vids, to let me know if I've done something wrong😬 or given out bad info 🙈 (very possible) but if not that, then glad you enjoyed a chilled 5 mins of content 😊👍🏻 cheers mate
Your amazing videos helped me maintain my 2012 cupra r myself, thanks! Hope you can help me a bit more: the car was throwing some p0171 codes, so i cleaned the MAF. No more codes, but still running lean. After changing MAF for a completely new one they stabilized around 19% LTFT. I suspected a vac leak but couldn’t find one. Dealer checked the car and diagnosed a bad high pressure hose. Replaced that one for a new one, but still no differences. Search continues. Used this vid to change the PCV valve, old one seemed broken and there was quite some oil inside. Thought this would fix it, but still no improvements on the LTFT. Car drives without any issues on this LTFT settings, other from a little rougher cold starts. When resetting fuel trims it idles very bad and slowly moves up again to around 19% LTFT and starts running fine. Im out of clues what might be causing this. Thinking of going back to the dealer but maybe you can help? Thanks alot!
Thanks for the kind words. As for your issue, you've tried a lot of what I would have suggested 😅🙈
I was going to say if the dealer smoke tested the vacuum system. Smoke tests are good for showing any small vac leaks. Also the seal on the dipstick sometimes deteriorates and lets air in, or a bad seal on the oil cap. Worth checking them as the engine runs to see if opening them up makes a noticeable running difference. If it does, it means there seals are good.
How u manage to track it down mate. It's always horrible to try and find issues like that.
Thank you for the quick reply. I assume the dealer did that and came to that diagnosis, bur because it made no difference im suspecting it was just some visual inspection… Nevertheless i don’t suspect a vac leak tbh as the LTFT doesn’t change under load and the STFT doesn’t correct it. If any the STFT increases under load compared to idle. Hope the dealer can do some proper diagnosis this time 🥲
For anyone that does this job and replaces the hoses as well careful with the brake boost hose it runs along the thicker bottom hose and is easy to knock off I was pulling my hair out wondering why my idle got worse after fixing it till I seen it was off
Great video. Have you found that there had been any issue with not replacing the rear pcv?
Hi Peter, cheers, and do you mean the breather pipe at the rear of the camshaft cover? I'm not aware of another PCV valve on the engine, but there's probably one I'm unaware of 😅🙈
Very helpful thank you. Did you take note of the old part number? Mine ends in N just wondered if this is an older unit?
I didn't take a note of the old number I'm afraid, but if it is the older unit you'll see a slight difference between ur one and the new one I put on. Mostly it's the large circular bit on top that has changed design slightly.
@@NorthCoastWorkshop thank you
Hi, thanks for the video - super informative. I have just changed mine and now its making a slightly metallic ticking noise? Is this normal and will it possibly go away once it has had some oil through it? Cheers!
Hi Andrew, cheers for watching.
I'm not aware of a new one making this sort of noise before. It may be something nearby that is now making this noise as the pcv valve doesn't have much to it really, just a wee spring and a rubber diaphragm. It may elf lubricate over the next few runs, but if it continues I would get it checked out in case something else is about to cause you issues.
Cheers 👍🏻
@@NorthCoastWorkshop cheers for the reply! No problem, I will keep an eye on it over the next couple journeys and see if it improves. Of course it's entirely possible that it was making the same noise before, but it's now more obvious because the idle is so smooth!
Glad to hear it's helped the idling smooth itself out 👍🏻 and cheers again for the comment and watching 😊
Might think about changing mine .😆 Not sure if done before . Car is on 92k lol . Great vid . 👍
😂 yeah, well I was the same. "If it ain't broke.... fix it just in case" is one of my slogans on my merchandise, and this perfectly sums up that PCV 😂😂
Cheers for watching 👍🏻
Looks like the cap design/diaphragm design is different. Isn't it? Is it alright to change the design structure?
I own an Audi A3 2007 1.8 TFSI. I am trying to replace PCV valve, but I couldn'r find it. Instead I am planning to buy a 2.0 PCV diaphragm and use it on my 1.8 PCV diaphragm. What are your thought?
Hi Mark, thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. As for swapping out the diaphragms, that might possibly work, as long as the diameters were the same. And yes the PCV I fitted in the video was the 'latest' revision from VW/Audi etc, and that diaphragm housing seemed to be the only update.
If you do decide to swap them out, let me know how it goes 👍🏻
Tenho um Seat Leon CupraR310 .
A uns dias atraz o relantim comecou a ficar instavel .. sera essa mesma peca que voce trocou?
Possibly. If you haven't replaced it yet, it may be the issue. But I'm not 100% sure sorry
Do we know the oem part number for the pipe going from the pcv to the inlet ?
Yep, try searching 06F103221E or 06F103235 as I can't remember which is which 😅🙈
@@NorthCoastWorkshop nice one thank you
What brand pcv you just install? Vaico? Febi? Swag? I have topran 4 weeks and whitsling again.. And febi works ~6 months.
I'm unsure of the brand. It was from a supplier in the UK that supplies genuine seat/VW/Audi car parts, so it's available also through dealerships service departments. There's a link in the description to the one I purchased 👍🏻
@@kevinmatthews4277 i live in finland, i think delivery costs same what only part cost..
Ah, that's not good. Have you a car dealership for VW/Audi/seat in Finland at all? They may be able to order the item for you
@@NorthCoastWorkshop yes i have, i have to ask somewere tomorrow or i order it on internet.
@@TallissaPentti 06F 129 101 R
is the part number for reference. Hope u manage to get one 🤞🏻
Will this fit on my 2008 2.0 TFSI?
Will an aftermarket one do the trick?
Yes it will. And as for aftermarket, it may be fine, but I've heard the non genuine ones can sometimes cause problems. It's totally up to u, but I bought a OEM one to be safe for my car
@@NorthCoastWorkshop I can only find aftermarket PCV's online unfortunately. So i will probably have to order one from my local Seat dealer
Ah I see, like I said it's totally up to you if you maybe want to try aftermarket. I do but aftermarket products for other things, but was just for piece of mind I bought OEM for this one.
I forgot to mention I have a 2008 Seat Leon FR 2.0tfsi. Will the mentioned OEM fit for my engine? I can't find the OEM number for the old PCV. It's on the back of the PCV valve, but I'm lacking time to remove the current one 😅. Do you know the OEM before the revision version?
Yes I do, and you'll feel silly here, but I purposely included it in the title for this video you commented on 😁😉
#leonlife 😊 another cracking video mate
🔥#leonlife🔥😁 cheers mark, appreciated 😊
So its good or not good to dellet the Pcv vallve ?
I've heard so many mixed reports. So my understanding is complete deletion is most likely going to cause running issues later on, a delete with a quality catch can setup can be ok if done correctly, and a new revision pcv is the safest and most reliable option.
I bought a catch can ages ago, I still have it and was going to do a tutorial, but after all the stuff I read, I just opted to go for the new pcv and keep it in place. It does have a job to do on the engine after all.
@@NorthCoastWorkshop yeah its really mixed up , but i think if the pcv valve its delleted will lower the carbon deposit in the intake manifold ?
@@dualysmirtin5144 it will definitely lower the carbon in the inlet, but the downside is it may cause running issues, excessive smoke, poor running on idle and poor mpg.
The excessive carbon build up is a pain, but I'd say to have it cleaned every 50,000 miles would be worthwhile.
After searching 'pcv delete problems' on Google, I stayed clear of delete kits.
At the end of the day though, it's ur car and u can try out whatever mods u want. That's exactly what I do 😁
how much the change cost, please?
It was £60 including the gasket for a genuine one 👍🏻
Hi! Can you check my video, what is that loud wisthling noice audi s3 8p?
Hmmm, I'm not sure. Doesn't sound good. Sounds like a pulley or something mechanical that's spinning with the engine speed. I'd get it to a garage asap to see what they say. If it's something that's about to seize up or stop working soon, best to get it looked at immediately
Did you apply any oil or lubricant when installing a new one?
Hi Andreas, no I just put it back together as it was. But lubricating the new gasket for the PCV will do no harm/damage if you have done that 👍🏻